For an air compressor, I use the 21 gallon air compressor in my garage, run a 100ft hose into the house, and use an inline air regulator and moisture trap xD I can airbrush all day long without it ever turning on. I already had the air compressor, why not use it?
Wet Palette: I tried it out with a shallow Tupperware, 4-layer paper towel, and a square of parchment paper. It painted one miniature and it was a game-changer. I immediately ordered a Masterson Wet Palette and haven't looked back. It was even better than the DIY option and is just so amazing for the hobby. Long White Light: Neat-Fi LED Lamp. About $120 and so worth it.
The light you guys couldn't recall may have been the NeatFi hobby lamp. I've seen it recommended fairly often, and ended up getting one. I love it! It's definitely a 2-tendie option, but a solid one!
When I started mini painting I was lucky enough to have an old Dealer Rowney artists sized wet palette knocking around - love the fact it's so huge that I have endless space for mixing
"this totally feels like border lands" he says as his next sentence literally has the word MONSTER HUNTER (the game these models are actually based off) in it - enjoyed the vid btw!
On the super glue conversation, I love the gorilla glue brand super glue, but particularly the GEL version of their super glue. It's great for a lot of applications because it stays where you put it. You don't have to worry about it flowing away from where you apply it. My favorite thing about it though is that because of it's consistency (I think) it will hold pieces together for you while it dries. For example, if you use it to glue a space marine arm onto it's torso, you can let it go immediately and it will stay put, and because the glue itself isn't actually dry yet, you can spin it around, assess the placement, and still make small adjustments to it's position while it dries. It's just a lot better than having to sit there and try and hold pieces together perfectly for several seconds or even minutes lol
Just used this Gorilla Gel Superglue and tbh it's a game changer. I've been building a good bit of Mantic's resin/restic crap for Kings of War and it's been a real pain. That is until I started using the Gorilla Gel. Now it's a non issue building non Polystyrene minis.
I don’t know what you did to that paper. I’ve used one for years and I think I am on my third piece of paper. It’s definitely $12. I think I bought mine a Jo-Ann fabrics with a 50% off coupon when they carried them.
Rosemary and co are my go to brushes but I want to say that their squirrel hair brushes are actually my favorite. they don't have the same amount of spring as Kolinsky but the flow, paint load and application smoothness make them my go to. I only bought them on a whim to try for washes and I haven't used sable since. Worth trying if you're in the market for budget friendly options
Surprised you didn't talk about painting handles. I've bought some 2 tendie MDF ones, and got some 3- tendie GW buttplug handles, but keep going back to using the DIY/trash option: Sodastream syrup bottle lids. I've also recently discovered that Berocca style tubes fit perfectly into the Sodastream lids, so if you fill those with sand for weight, mount magnets onto the lids, and a washers inside the lids, you get some great ghetto rotating/hot-swapable paint-handles.
Pro tip for creating your own Wet Palette is instead of using a traditional Sponge, you use a “cooling towel” and cut that to the size of your container. Used that for over a year and had great results. 🤓
In regards to the plastic glue I believe Scott mentioned the blue label can. The kind I use is Weld-On. There are different types and it evaporates extremely fast. From the label i believe it is the Dichloromethane or Methylene Chloride. It is strong stuff but you need to keep it in an air tight bottle.
built a wet pallette with chinese takeout box for a friend just yesterday haha. used a sponge from the packaging of my latest model purchase. works like a charm
That portable airbrush/compressor, Jon's talking about, I got one of those to lean its awesome, hooked up my new Squid airbrush as well pretty awesome...
That stuff for bonding Styrene and Acrylic is probably Trichloromethane / Methane Trichloride (also know as Chloroform). Craft stores sell it as "Liquid Quartz" for use with acrylic sheets.
I used a home made wet pallete for a year, upgraded to an actual wet pallete last year and it's the biggest difference in the world, also for clippers anything single bladed is the way to go for plastic
Ok, so I have to add a couple 3 tendy options where i have up'd my hobby game. 1) superglue - not A specific brand. but if you aren't using it with accelerator. try it, it will be life changing. 2) compressor - I ran an airline from the shop compressor in my garage along with wiring for a switch to turn it on and off from where I paint and moisture trap with pressure adjustment on it (off amazon), I can run that thing all day long with no pressure drop and I can't hear it all. I give this 4 tendies for quality of life upgrade. And if you already have the compressor it might even be cheaper than your other 3 tendy options. Live in aclimate where we have winter so this for me was a game changer for trying to prime vehicle size models or large batches when it's cold out.
Im enjoying my Creos 771 for an airbrush. I use it mostly, for detail but its good enough to prime with say Molotow primer. I use HP-CS for a lot of stuff as well. What I like about the .18 needle creos, is it forces me to thin my paints and do things in thin thin coats. But you can do that with the HP-CS but you can get away with thicker paint than you can with a .2 or .18g needle.
That plastic solvent is Weld-On #4. It contains Dichloromethane, Methylene Chloride, Trichloroethylene, and Methyl Methacrylate Monomer (dissolved plastics). I bought a 4oz bottle a few years ago and I've used half, mostly from building big, non-mini projects. You can also use MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) but it's difficult to find, evaporates extremely quickly, and is a lot more hazardous. I highly recommend getting the #711 "Touch-N-Flow" applicator (made by Flex-I-File) - it's far easier to control than those junky applicator bottles. You'll still need a #715 Filler Bottle (or get the #7000 kit) to draw to solvent into the Touch-N-Flow unless you want to risk that stuff getting in your mouth. I don't advise this as it does unpleasant things to the tongue and mouth skin. It's relatively harmless on skin but YMMV.
Classic - middle of the conversation about brushes…Jon: I sh** myself. I lost it. Always informative. Always entertaining. Sounds like an advertisement to me.
A long set of comments on tools: Medium != water. Medium is the acrylic monomer solution that polymerizes to become the acrylic plastic layer. (I absolutely agree that you should just use tap water unless you have appalling water. Using medium to make glazes means that you can get lower opacity without the paint film breaking. I recommend Acrylic Fluid Medium from an art company, because it's much cheaper by volume. I use paper towels in my Masterson palette even though I have extra Masterson sponges. It works better for me, both because paper towel is neutral colored and because I can throw it away without any worries. BTW, the Masterson Handy Palette is $12.75 at Blick. Parchment paper definitely works better for liquid acrylics than the Masterson paper. (I suspect the Masterson paper works better for tube paints.) High CRI LED light panels are inexpensive, can be powered with batteries (for use at conventions or hobby stores) and will give you a soft light. I have Ottlites and don't use them. BTW, the advantage of bluer light is that it will push you to use warmer colors (I run at 5500K, FWIW.) Brushes: Never buy middle-priced brushes. They're not noticeably better than the cheap ones. (This is true for both expensive synthetics and cheap Kolinskys, btw.) Either buy the cheapest brushes you can find that have a point, or buy premium Kolinskys (my preference is da Vinci Series 35 currently.) I use Kolinskys for almost everything except dry brushing and stippling. It's worth buying good paint, because craft paint makes painting less fun. Reaper is very good, btw, but you have to understand the consistency, which is very different from (say) Scale75. I use a mixture of Reaper, Scale75, Golden Fluid Acrylics, Liquitex Acrylic Gouache, .... Stynylrez is great, IMO. I've used it extensively and never had a problem. For files, I use tiny diamond grit files for almost everything. For knives, use scalpels, which are much sharper than hobby blades. They're also more brittle, so you need to use care. Scalpel blades and handles are very inexpensive, btw. Plastic cement: Use either Acetone (which evaporates a bit faster than I'd prefer) or Methyl Ethyl Ketone, which cost the same for a quart as Tamiya costs per ounce. (Check the safety data sheet for your preferred cement, it's a revelation.) Buy these from the home store. Use these for polystyrene minis. Super Glue, buy from whoever you want. Use super glue for PVC minis, it's by far the best choice. For most assembly of resin or metal minis, I strongly prefer 5 minute epoxy. It's a much better choice than super glue. I'll leave aside any discussion of miniature companies, because I try to avoid religious arguments. Except to say that GW's latest NDA is an abomination, so screw them.
I personally have owned the exemplar for about 3/4 weeks now. Its pretty good. The walls on it are pretty low so it doesn't hinder mixing/getting paint off the palette. it has pretty good moisture control when you have it covered. Cool little vent you can open or close. I really like the copper sticker it came with to put under the pad. The paper it comes with is supposed to be an upgraded parchment paper. Comes with a nice dry palette that fits nicely in the lid. All in all a good palette. Is it worth the money? Well in all honestly it works the same as any other wet palette. I think its for those that have a bit of disposable hobby dollars.
Thanks guys. Great content again. I won't make Adepticon as I'm in UK. So can I throw a question out here?...... To those who have went from a DIY wet palette to a proper one from a company. The paper that comes with it, is it any different from store baking paper etc? I'm wondering exactly what type of paper it is. Is it specifically formulated for our hobby? Or just another product repacked, rebranded ? The issue with 99% of baking paper is that it has a silicone film. A couple have it on one side only. (Rare/Needle in a haystack tbh.) So ideally what I think we need is the paper intercepted during the manufacture. Bleached bt not silicone applied. So is it just high GSM tracing craft paper?? Also the sponge/absorbant material. Do they seem special in any way ? I would buy a £35 wet palette but tbh if its just stuff I can pretty much buy myself I grudge paying that. Or is there just 'something nice' about a proper wet palette?
Tamiyah extra thin is a mix of Acetone and butyl acetate, 50/50 you can also use Acetone and MEK (Methy ethyl ketone ) in a 30/70 to 70/30 depending how fast you want it to dry and how hard you want it to melt the plastic, MEK is hardcore stuff
Not having to cut the parchment paper is the only reason I went and got a redgrass pallette over my masterson one. Cutting it was a pain in the butt, but I used to precut a ton and keep them in a comic book plastic bag cover thing.
Redgrass Games precusion nippers are definitely a cut above the 2 tendies on my book. We need more precision than 1-3 tendies here, what villain would go to a half tendy scale?
The one tool totally worth was that usb air compressor in your video. I went from a big bulky cumbersome rig and dreading to airbrush to just being able to whip it out anytime
Wet pallet, I make my own, and I've never found any reason to pay £20 for a bowl a sponge and a piece of baking paper. I've never had to fight it, I've never had air bubbles, I've never had water seeping through. I would like to paint with a 'proper' wet pallet at some point, just to see if there is any difference, because I can't think of where that difference would be.
For lights I just got a standing lamp (sry engrish isnt my fatherlanguage) with 3 lamps in 3 fixed hights. The Lamp heads can be adjusted to point wherever u want and i threw 3 100W eqivalent LED lamps in it. Now i mustn't turn around so i'm not blinded for half an hour... But it works like a dream for me. As long as I can see...
I see that Monument stuff is well loved by a lot of hobbyists. I'm not sure if that has to do with Monument being nice to them, or if it goes back to some sort of local patriotism (I'm fine with both btw.). However, I'd be interested to see you guys to blind test (in particular with the super glue). I'd also be interested in seeing you testing the Golden Acrylic vs the Pro Acryl ones.
I definitely payed $12 and change for my small Masterson wet palette three years ago. Today, on Amazon, the same palette is $22. So you're both right: The price has gone up substantially, on Amazon, at least, probably due to supply and demand issues during the Covid lockdowns.
I will say, my uncle didn't buy the event badge, he just bought a spectator badge the first day we went and they just gave him a blank badge with his name written in a sharpy. I wasn't aware that was a thing before I spent $100 on a badge for my wife and I. He spent I think $20 and used the same badge for both days and was able to walk around and buy things but wasn't able to participate in anything. It was my 1st time going so I wasn't aware that was even a thing but apparently it is.
This might be the first time ive heard a mini painting um, content thing, mention Blick art. Also counting forums. Been using them for a decade for normal and mini painting supplies. You wanna use sable brushes and not destroy your bank? Davinci and W&N go on sale there all the time, like 8-15 bucks for yer size 0-2. I'm literally looking at my order for DaV size 0 kolinsky for $7.16, its my eyeball poker brush. Compare the same citadel brush (XS artificer) at about $30. You want some good synthetics for base coating? Robert Simmons white sable or titanium, 2-4 bucks a brush on sale. They hold up to abuse pretty well and have the stiffest bristles in a shape that is what we're used to for mini painting. Use the filbert tip for base coating quickly and smoothly, and then round tip for normal stuff. Also those masterson replacement sponges are like 2 dollars each in a 3 pack. Though they do last a while. I like their wet pallet itself since it's very slim, it packs up nicely.
I've heard Anne Forester mention Blick many times for multiple years on Reaper's Twitch show that she does every weekday. She talks about Blick and Cheap Joe's every time someone asks about her brushes or her well palette.
You should totally stop by the Studio X setup and ask them about if they'll ever ship the products instead of continuing to go to cons and show off products they're not actually shipping to people who paid for them.
I think the only thing on this list you need to go 3 tendies on is the light. I got a neatfi XL2 and I have seen a drastic difference in my painting. You can get a crappy desk lamp and a great lightbulb, but lightbulbs don't last very long. In the long run you will pay more with that route than just buying something like the neatfi xl2.
I use the Gorilla super glue for stuff for assembling 3D printed models. It seems to cure hard just like any other stuff but its more of a gel like constancy. It doesn't harden as fast. The other alternative is Loctite gel super glue. The Gorilla is a little thicker. It doesn't drip if you shake it up. You do have to shake it good because whatever is in there will separate and drip all over. Lessons from experience...
You can prevent that if you store it below about 65°F... I keep my house a bit on the cool side in the fall, and that has given me no lack of headache, until I gave it some thought. Trying to build a few metal models, when it's a touch chilly, can keep your glue from kicking properly, without some help.
@@andrewamann2821 The models I build are all plastic (so far), and I live in Johannesburg, South Africa which tends to be warm and dry. The fridge is the best I can do for temperature control XD
I'm new to the hobby right, having been around for roughly a year. I have never seen a Raph 8404, or a Winsor & Newton go for 12-15$ like not even close. Typically there 20$ on the low end, usually 25-30. Maybe they've been cheaper in the past, but I can't say. Where in the world could you buy Kolinsky Sables of Raph or Winsor quality for sub 25-30$
Goobertown Hobbies, a TH-camr who claims to have PHD in Chemistry, did a video about plastic cements and another about superglues. He explains what plastic cement is in it, I suggest watching it if you want to make your own plastic cement.
I started dozing off whilst watching the podcast and you guys came upon the topic of talking about Dan, and being that my name is Dan I woke up thinking really? How the fuck are they talking about me lol, then I realized very quickly that I'm clearly not that important and you were talking about the "Dan" lol... you're right.. everyone DOES need a Dan in their life 🤘🏼
The plastic glue stuff is methyl ethyl ketone (MEK). You can just buy a can at a hardware or paint store and refill your Plastruct or Tamiya bottle. I haven't hard to buy plastic glue in years.
Definitely a 3 tendie podcast in my book!!! Even 4 if I was allowed to go off the tendie scale, but I don’t want to hurt Scott’s but more than that colonoscopy…zing!!
Hey TUP, just wanted to add to the news for any Brandon Sanderson fans that Brotherwise Games is launching a Stormlight Archive miniatures campaign on kickstarter this summer.
so i am a little late... i am from germany and i love H&S. I wanted to go with a H&S Infinity with a second needle and they are like 40€ . so i went with the Sotar 20/20 ( they are like 25€ per Needle )because i like to drink a little when i paint so i am to clumbsy for the H&S....
Okay so putting this out there: Whoever's at Adepticon for the inaugural Trapped Under Plastic Live should bring chicken tenders to throw on stage when they start the Preamble Ramble. Maybe in plastic baggies to be considerate and not make an absolute mess with tendie crumbs everywhere.
My store brand kolinsky brushes are half the price of their DaVinci cousins and I like them better. Haven’t tried the Raphael, or WN stuff yet though. So two tendies for me please 🙂
re: Side cutters- There's no waaay the Tamiya and Mr Hobby are 3*, God Hand certainly is but Tamiya cutters are like, $20? Compared to the $60 God Hands, at least. I'd put Tamiya at the 2* and M Hobby only being $10 is like, 1.5* lol
Yeah gotta side with Scott on this one. "What is best in life" is pretty fuckin' iconic
Ya "Boo this man." For his hypocrisy
To crush your enemies, to see them driven before you, and to hear the lamentations of their women!
For an air compressor, I use the 21 gallon air compressor in my garage, run a 100ft hose into the house, and use an inline air regulator and moisture trap xD I can airbrush all day long without it ever turning on. I already had the air compressor, why not use it?
Wet Palette: I tried it out with a shallow Tupperware, 4-layer paper towel, and a square of parchment paper. It painted one miniature and it was a game-changer. I immediately ordered a Masterson Wet Palette and haven't looked back. It was even better than the DIY option and is just so amazing for the hobby.
Long White Light: Neat-Fi LED Lamp. About $120 and so worth it.
That was my experience with wet pallettes.
LIVE TUP? You're telling me it's possible to throw tendies and soda at Scott and Jon during the episode? dreams do comet rue kids.
The light you guys couldn't recall may have been the NeatFi hobby lamp. I've seen it recommended fairly often, and ended up getting one. I love it! It's definitely a 2-tendie option, but a solid one!
note to self, rewatch the lights discussion at 40:00 before next purchase. Very useful stuff you guys, thanks!
When I started mini painting I was lucky enough to have an old Dealer Rowney artists sized wet palette knocking around - love the fact it's so huge that I have endless space for mixing
The chemicals in Tamiya thin is 50% acetone, and 50% butyl acetate. First is easier to find, but second is a little harder.
18:40 scott just gave such a general piece of advice that you can literally apply it to ANYTHING
Swear by the Gorilla Glue with the brush for application, easy to use , also one-go tubes for small projects
"this totally feels like border lands" he says as his next sentence literally has the word MONSTER HUNTER (the game these models are actually based off) in it - enjoyed the vid btw!
On the super glue conversation, I love the gorilla glue brand super glue, but particularly the GEL version of their super glue. It's great for a lot of applications because it stays where you put it. You don't have to worry about it flowing away from where you apply it. My favorite thing about it though is that because of it's consistency (I think) it will hold pieces together for you while it dries. For example, if you use it to glue a space marine arm onto it's torso, you can let it go immediately and it will stay put, and because the glue itself isn't actually dry yet, you can spin it around, assess the placement, and still make small adjustments to it's position while it dries. It's just a lot better than having to sit there and try and hold pieces together perfectly for several seconds or even minutes lol
Just used this Gorilla Gel Superglue and tbh it's a game changer. I've been building a good bit of Mantic's resin/restic crap for Kings of War and it's been a real pain. That is until I started using the Gorilla Gel. Now it's a non issue building non Polystyrene minis.
I love it how you mentioned borderlands but not Monster Hunter when talking about your sponsor.
Like those are straight up monster hunter models.
I don't know what palette you looked up Jon, but I just looked, the Sta-Wet palette by Masterson is only $12 on amazon.
Me too. Love the pallet, but not a fan of their included paper, I found it super thick and shredded easily.
I don’t know what you did to that paper. I’ve used one for years and I think I am on my third piece of paper.
It’s definitely $12. I think I bought mine a Jo-Ann fabrics with a 50% off coupon when they carried them.
Love the gorilla glue gel - stays where you put it, holds very solid and dries really fast. Can also 'kinda' fill teeeny gaps in a pinch..
Tamiya Cement:Synthetic resin + Styrene Organic Solvent ;
Tamiya Extra Thin: Acetone + Butyl Acetate;
Tamiya Extra Thin: Acetone + Methyl Ethyl Ketone + Ethyl Acetate
When in doubt, ask Goobs, he's a chemist, no?
Rosemary and co are my go to brushes but I want to say that their squirrel hair brushes are actually my favorite. they don't have the same amount of spring as Kolinsky but the flow, paint load and application smoothness make them my go to. I only bought them on a whim to try for washes and I haven't used sable since. Worth trying if you're in the market for budget friendly options
Surprised you didn't talk about painting handles.
I've bought some 2 tendie MDF ones, and got some 3- tendie GW buttplug handles, but keep going back to using the DIY/trash option: Sodastream syrup bottle lids.
I've also recently discovered that Berocca style tubes fit perfectly into the Sodastream lids, so if you fill those with sand for weight, mount magnets onto the lids, and a washers inside the lids, you get some great ghetto rotating/hot-swapable paint-handles.
Pro tip for creating your own Wet Palette is instead of using a traditional Sponge, you use a “cooling towel” and cut that to the size of your container. Used that for over a year and had great results. 🤓
In regards to the plastic glue I believe Scott mentioned the blue label can. The kind I use is Weld-On. There are different types and it evaporates extremely fast. From the label i believe it is the Dichloromethane or Methylene Chloride. It is strong stuff but you need to keep it in an air tight bottle.
built a wet pallette with chinese takeout box for a friend just yesterday haha. used a sponge from the packaging of my latest model purchase. works like a charm
That portable airbrush/compressor, Jon's talking about, I got one of those to lean its awesome, hooked up my new Squid airbrush as well pretty awesome...
That stuff for bonding Styrene and Acrylic is probably Trichloromethane / Methane Trichloride (also know as Chloroform). Craft stores sell it as "Liquid Quartz" for use with acrylic sheets.
I used a home made wet pallete for a year, upgraded to an actual wet pallete last year and it's the biggest difference in the world, also for clippers anything single bladed is the way to go for plastic
Ok, so I have to add a couple 3 tendy options where i have up'd my hobby game.
1) superglue - not A specific brand. but if you aren't using it with accelerator. try it, it will be life changing.
2) compressor - I ran an airline from the shop compressor in my garage along with wiring for a switch to turn it on and off from where I paint and moisture trap with pressure adjustment on it (off amazon), I can run that thing all day long with no pressure drop and I can't hear it all. I give this 4 tendies for quality of life upgrade. And if you already have the compressor it might even be cheaper than your other 3 tendy options. Live in aclimate where we have winter so this for me was a game changer for trying to prime vehicle size models or large batches when it's cold out.
The $22.90 Masterson palette (same price Jon quoted) comes with paper.
I haven’t seen it mentioned, but the lamp Jon mentioned is the Neatfi XL
Im enjoying my Creos 771 for an airbrush. I use it mostly, for detail but its good enough to prime with say Molotow primer. I use HP-CS for a lot of stuff as well. What I like about the .18 needle creos, is it forces me to thin my paints and do things in thin thin coats. But you can do that with the HP-CS but you can get away with thicker paint than you can with a .2 or .18g needle.
That plastic solvent is Weld-On #4. It contains Dichloromethane, Methylene Chloride, Trichloroethylene, and Methyl Methacrylate Monomer (dissolved plastics). I bought a 4oz bottle a few years ago and I've used half, mostly from building big, non-mini projects. You can also use MEK (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) but it's difficult to find, evaporates extremely quickly, and is a lot more hazardous.
I highly recommend getting the #711 "Touch-N-Flow" applicator (made by Flex-I-File) - it's far easier to control than those junky applicator bottles. You'll still need a #715 Filler Bottle (or get the #7000 kit) to draw to solvent into the Touch-N-Flow unless you want to risk that stuff getting in your mouth. I don't advise this as it does unpleasant things to the tongue and mouth skin. It's relatively harmless on skin but YMMV.
Classic - middle of the conversation about brushes…Jon: I sh** myself. I lost it. Always informative. Always entertaining. Sounds like an advertisement to me.
A long set of comments on tools:
Medium != water. Medium is the acrylic monomer solution that polymerizes to become the acrylic plastic layer. (I absolutely agree that you should just use tap water unless you have appalling water. Using medium to make glazes means that you can get lower opacity without the paint film breaking. I recommend Acrylic Fluid Medium from an art company, because it's much cheaper by volume.
I use paper towels in my Masterson palette even though I have extra Masterson sponges. It works better for me, both because paper towel is neutral colored and because I can throw it away without any worries. BTW, the Masterson Handy Palette is $12.75 at Blick. Parchment paper definitely works better for liquid acrylics than the Masterson paper. (I suspect the Masterson paper works better for tube paints.)
High CRI LED light panels are inexpensive, can be powered with batteries (for use at conventions or hobby stores) and will give you a soft light. I have Ottlites and don't use them. BTW, the advantage of bluer light is that it will push you to use warmer colors (I run at 5500K, FWIW.)
Brushes: Never buy middle-priced brushes. They're not noticeably better than the cheap ones. (This is true for both expensive synthetics and cheap Kolinskys, btw.) Either buy the cheapest brushes you can find that have a point, or buy premium Kolinskys (my preference is da Vinci Series 35 currently.) I use Kolinskys for almost everything except dry brushing and stippling.
It's worth buying good paint, because craft paint makes painting less fun. Reaper is very good, btw, but you have to understand the consistency, which is very different from (say) Scale75. I use a mixture of Reaper, Scale75, Golden Fluid Acrylics, Liquitex Acrylic Gouache, ....
Stynylrez is great, IMO. I've used it extensively and never had a problem.
For files, I use tiny diamond grit files for almost everything.
For knives, use scalpels, which are much sharper than hobby blades. They're also more brittle, so you need to use care. Scalpel blades and handles are very inexpensive, btw.
Plastic cement: Use either Acetone (which evaporates a bit faster than I'd prefer) or Methyl Ethyl Ketone, which cost the same for a quart as Tamiya costs per ounce. (Check the safety data sheet for your preferred cement, it's a revelation.) Buy these from the home store. Use these for polystyrene minis.
Super Glue, buy from whoever you want. Use super glue for PVC minis, it's by far the best choice.
For most assembly of resin or metal minis, I strongly prefer 5 minute epoxy. It's a much better choice than super glue.
I'll leave aside any discussion of miniature companies, because I try to avoid religious arguments. Except to say that GW's latest NDA is an abomination, so screw them.
I personally have owned the exemplar for about 3/4 weeks now. Its pretty good. The walls on it are pretty low so it doesn't hinder mixing/getting paint off the palette. it has pretty good moisture control when you have it covered. Cool little vent you can open or close. I really like the copper sticker it came with to put under the pad. The paper it comes with is supposed to be an upgraded parchment paper. Comes with a nice dry palette that fits nicely in the lid. All in all a good palette. Is it worth the money? Well in all honestly it works the same as any other wet palette. I think its for those that have a bit of disposable hobby dollars.
the industrial stuff is called MEK aka Methyl Ethyl Ketone, it is stronger then acetone.
Came here just to see if anyone else posted it.
Used to use it for assembling parts at a factory back in the late 80's.
with you on the steiner primer. tried twisce now and each time created goopey mess in the airbrush
the producted you mention used my Jimmy DiResta is weld on. probably weld on no. 3
Thanks guys. Great content again.
I won't make Adepticon as I'm in UK. So can I throw a question out here?......
To those who have went from a DIY wet palette to a proper one from a company.
The paper that comes with it, is it any different from store baking paper etc?
I'm wondering exactly what type of paper it is. Is it specifically formulated for our hobby?
Or just another product repacked, rebranded ?
The issue with 99% of baking paper is that it has a silicone film. A couple have it on one side only. (Rare/Needle in a haystack tbh.)
So ideally what I think we need is the paper intercepted during the manufacture. Bleached bt not silicone applied.
So is it just high GSM tracing craft paper??
Also the sponge/absorbant material. Do they seem special in any way ?
I would buy a £35 wet palette but tbh if its just stuff I can pretty much buy myself I grudge paying that.
Or is there just 'something nice' about a proper wet palette?
Tamiyah extra thin is a mix of Acetone and butyl acetate, 50/50
you can also use Acetone and MEK (Methy ethyl ketone ) in a 30/70 to 70/30 depending how fast you want it to dry and how hard you want it to melt the plastic, MEK is hardcore stuff
Yup. Goobertown hobbies made a video about this. I went to the Home Depot taht day and bought MEK substitute and haven’t looked back since.
I've got yer back, Scott; it's totally weakass for Jon to miss the Conan reference.
The best airbrush compressor for model painting is the Iwata Studio Series Smart Jet Pro.
Not having to cut the parchment paper is the only reason I went and got a redgrass pallette over my masterson one. Cutting it was a pain in the butt, but I used to precut a ton and keep them in a comic book plastic bag cover thing.
I didn't want to do it, but I totally liked the video at 696...
Great episode guys, thanks for the awesome content as usual!
On Amazon just the Masterson Sta-wet pallet is 12 bucks the kit with extra paper and sponges is 22 bucks.
Scott how many tendies would you give reaper metal, and bones black minis? I love reaper minis they have so many great fantasy sculpts.
For lights, it takes a sec to get used to, but I've really been enjoying my magnifying light.
“Shouldn’t have said roast” last iconic words
Redgrass Games precusion nippers are definitely a cut above the 2 tendies on my book. We need more precision than 1-3 tendies here, what villain would go to a half tendy scale?
The one tool totally worth was that usb air compressor in your video. I went from a big bulky cumbersome rig and dreading to airbrush to just being able to whip it out anytime
Wet pallet, I make my own, and I've never found any reason to pay £20 for a bowl a sponge and a piece of baking paper. I've never had to fight it, I've never had air bubbles, I've never had water seeping through. I would like to paint with a 'proper' wet pallet at some point, just to see if there is any difference, because I can't think of where that difference would be.
The redgrass games one is hard to beat
Zip lock wetpallet container. With soft papertowl to hold the water and parchment paper, works just fine for years 😀
Exodus and Testement in the background, Nice.
My understanding is that the Monument Superglue is made by Bob Smith's
Just bought one of the 75mm and the 3 x 32mm's :) cannot wait to add these to the duchess
the machine dryer for clothes gives distilled water. best if it haves a tank that have to be emptied but i use it for airbrush
For lights I just got a standing lamp (sry engrish isnt my fatherlanguage) with 3 lamps in 3 fixed hights. The Lamp heads can be adjusted to point wherever u want and i threw 3 100W eqivalent LED lamps in it. Now i mustn't turn around so i'm not blinded for half an hour... But it works like a dream for me. As long as I can see...
I see that Monument stuff is well loved by a lot of hobbyists. I'm not sure if that has to do with Monument being nice to them, or if it goes back to some sort of local patriotism (I'm fine with both btw.). However, I'd be interested to see you guys to blind test (in particular with the super glue). I'd also be interested in seeing you testing the Golden Acrylic vs the Pro Acryl ones.
I definitely payed $12 and change for my small Masterson wet palette three years ago. Today, on Amazon, the same palette is $22. So you're both right: The price has gone up substantially, on Amazon, at least, probably due to supply and demand issues during the Covid lockdowns.
I will say, my uncle didn't buy the event badge, he just bought a spectator badge the first day we went and they just gave him a blank badge with his name written in a sharpy. I wasn't aware that was a thing before I spent $100 on a badge for my wife and I. He spent I think $20 and used the same badge for both days and was able to walk around and buy things but wasn't able to participate in anything. It was my 1st time going so I wasn't aware that was even a thing but apparently it is.
The one tendie optiin for sprue clippers is a nail clipper.
This might be the first time ive heard a mini painting um, content thing, mention Blick art. Also counting forums.
Been using them for a decade for normal and mini painting supplies. You wanna use sable brushes and not destroy your bank? Davinci and W&N go on sale there all the time, like 8-15 bucks for yer size 0-2. I'm literally looking at my order for DaV size 0 kolinsky for $7.16, its my eyeball poker brush. Compare the same citadel brush (XS artificer) at about $30. You want some good synthetics for base coating? Robert Simmons white sable or titanium, 2-4 bucks a brush on sale. They hold up to abuse pretty well and have the stiffest bristles in a shape that is what we're used to for mini painting. Use the filbert tip for base coating quickly and smoothly, and then round tip for normal stuff.
Also those masterson replacement sponges are like 2 dollars each in a 3 pack. Though they do last a while. I like their wet pallet itself since it's very slim, it packs up nicely.
I've heard Anne Forester mention Blick many times for multiple years on Reaper's Twitch show that she does every weekday. She talks about Blick and Cheap Joe's every time someone asks about her brushes or her well palette.
Microfiber rags in wet pallettes work as well as sponges and are way easier to clean. Dont curl with age and are cheap as can be.
Man I was considering a last minute trip to adepticon - Had no idea about the ticket change policy. Eeeeeep.
You should totally stop by the Studio X setup and ask them about if they'll ever ship the products instead of continuing to go to cons and show off products they're not actually shipping to people who paid for them.
The ONLY place I can find DaVinci 8404's reliably is from Jackson's Art. Been liking them and the Monument Sable and Synthetic as my go-to brushes.
I think the only thing on this list you need to go 3 tendies on is the light. I got a neatfi XL2 and I have seen a drastic difference in my painting. You can get a crappy desk lamp and a great lightbulb, but lightbulbs don't last very long. In the long run you will pay more with that route than just buying something like the neatfi xl2.
I use the Gorilla super glue for stuff for assembling 3D printed models. It seems to cure hard just like any other stuff but its more of a gel like constancy. It doesn't harden as fast. The other alternative is Loctite gel super glue. The Gorilla is a little thicker. It doesn't drip if you shake it up. You do have to shake it good because whatever is in there will separate and drip all over. Lessons from experience...
What are your thoughts on AK Interactive brushes?
Malifaux is a 3 tendie based on the parameters. Just spent 35 on a single model haha.
for sure. i was very suprised he mentioned Malifaux for 2 tendies. The models seem very nice to me, lots of good detail.
Tip: you can store superglue in the fridge to stop it from hardening in the tube/bottle
You can prevent that if you store it below about 65°F... I keep my house a bit on the cool side in the fall, and that has given me no lack of headache, until I gave it some thought. Trying to build a few metal models, when it's a touch chilly, can keep your glue from kicking properly, without some help.
@@andrewamann2821 The models I build are all plastic (so far), and I live in Johannesburg, South Africa which tends to be warm and dry. The fridge is the best I can do for temperature control XD
I'm new to the hobby right, having been around for roughly a year. I have never seen a Raph 8404, or a Winsor & Newton go for 12-15$ like not even close. Typically there 20$ on the low end, usually 25-30. Maybe they've been cheaper in the past, but I can't say. Where in the world could you buy Kolinsky Sables of Raph or Winsor quality for sub 25-30$
Scott, how was your game of Infinity?
Goobertown Hobbies, a TH-camr who claims to have PHD in Chemistry, did a video about plastic cements and another about superglues. He explains what plastic cement is in it, I suggest watching it if you want to make your own plastic cement.
th-cam.com/video/VnyNbkoc72k/w-d-xo.html - It is a great video. I used it to make sprue goo so I didn't spend the money on Tamiya thin
the mastersons on Amazon was like 12 dollars when I got it last year I like it I use there paper but I let it soak overnight before I use it
Reaper bones have gone up in price. One of the latest freebies for this month is $5.99. You can actually find cheaper metals on their site.
I started dozing off whilst watching the podcast and you guys came upon the topic of talking about Dan, and being that my name is Dan I woke up thinking really? How the fuck are they talking about me lol, then I realized very quickly that I'm clearly not that important and you were talking about the "Dan" lol... you're right.. everyone DOES need a Dan in their life 🤘🏼
The plastic glue stuff is methyl ethyl ketone (MEK). You can just buy a can at a hardware or paint store and refill your Plastruct or Tamiya bottle. I haven't hard to buy plastic glue in years.
Harbor freight has the tiny files on sale for like a dollar from time to time
It's upsetting that you can't get the rosemary kolinsky sable 33's in the US anymore.
I use guerrilla super glue. with accelerator. works like a charm.
Gorilla super glue is the dope stuff ive genuinly loved it since i started using it, i use it on resin too
Waste workers will also thank you for using the slot in the exacto safety slot
Definitely a 3 tendie podcast in my book!!! Even 4 if I was allowed to go off the tendie scale, but I don’t want to hurt Scott’s but more than that colonoscopy…zing!!
Why this brush coffin is not in the shape of a coffin?
I love trap under plersticks! 🥰🐶
the styrene glue is weld-on 4
Hey TUP, just wanted to add to the news for any Brandon Sanderson fans that Brotherwise Games is launching a Stormlight Archive miniatures campaign on kickstarter this summer.
so i am a little late... i am from germany and i love H&S. I wanted to go with a H&S Infinity with a second needle and they are like 40€ . so i went with the Sotar 20/20 ( they are like 25€ per Needle )because i like to drink a little when i paint so i am to clumbsy for the H&S....
Okay so putting this out there: Whoever's at Adepticon for the inaugural Trapped Under Plastic Live should bring chicken tenders to throw on stage when they start the Preamble Ramble. Maybe in plastic baggies to be considerate and not make an absolute mess with tendie crumbs everywhere.
Or they could get toy chicken tenders instead.
I'm all about some Gorilla Gel Super Glue.
Hope you guys enjoy adepticon!
My store brand kolinsky brushes are half the price of their DaVinci cousins and I like them better. Haven’t tried the Raphael, or WN stuff yet though. So two tendies for me please 🙂
Marco Frisoni has a reallllly good DIY wet palette video.
As a photographer id go for 5600 it is a good daylight balanced color temp.
Great stuff friends 👏 👍
Ur live show gonna stream on youtube?
You guys should have had people submit questions in the comments section of this episode.
“Don’t fuck your hand, use the slot in the box.” Ha.
re: Side cutters- There's no waaay the Tamiya and Mr Hobby are 3*, God Hand certainly is but Tamiya cutters are like, $20? Compared to the $60 God Hands, at least. I'd put Tamiya at the 2* and M Hobby only being $10 is like, 1.5* lol
CREE LED 5k Daylight bulbs 75w or 125w replacement bulbs (12w- 18w LED bulbs) 90+ High CRI are great bulbs
Did Scott really not get the Goonie reference towards the end