Mark Dreyer - GluBoost - Liquid Finish In A Bottle
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ต.ค. 2024
- Mark Dreyer has been turning pens for over 20 years. He recently demoed at the AAW symposium in Atlanta and Portland, Turn-On! Chicago, and the Midwest Penturners Gathering in Ohio . An Electrical Engineer by trade he is meticulous in his pen making and finishing.
Will be putting this on right after watching this video for the 4th time.
Mark - Thanks for the heads up on GluBoost products. I’m relatively new to pen turning and have been very unhappy with quality of my pen finishes with conventional CA pen finishes. I’ve had difficulty with getting good consistency in the finish and with some residual roughness. The Gluboost products are simple to apply, gives a nice satin finish; a quick sanding and polish with finishing wax produces a very nice surface and pen. Thanks
Mark, thank you for this demonstration. I am considering giving this system a try because I seem to have nothing but problems with a normal CA finish. Everything from sticking to the delrin bushings to sanding through while trying to level the finish out. One question though, I do not have a buffing station and really would like to avoid having to purchase one. What final sanding and buffing steps would you recommend in lieu of a buffing system to get a good end result?
After you do the final sanding - use Novus 2 polish. Put it on on low speed with a blue paper towel. To remove it use cotton pads - available at the makeup counter at the local Walgreens-type store. The buffing wheel will give you more brilliance, but the cotton will work great. Cotton tee shirts or cotton cloth will also work. Hope this helps and thanks for watching. Let me know how it works out for you if you try it.
Mark - I know this is a few years old but I bought this system after seeing this video. Love the detail you go into in your videos. I live in SW suburbs of Chicago - maybe someday we will cross paths. I have a few questions about this finish:
1) What towel(s) do you recommend?
2) You said you go through micro-mesh pads before applying the finish and then buff. I see many sand to around 600, apply the finish, then micro-mesh, and buff. Do you not see the need to sand after applying the finish?
3) You apply thick then thin. Some do it the other way around. Why this difference?
Thanks
Mike
Mike - the paths can cross at Rockler in October at our pen makers meeting (Bolingbrook). We have a meeting the 3rd Saturday of every other month. Going back live October with a demo on casting.
As for the questions above - the towels are blue paper towels from Home Depot. I believe they are the blue Scott paper towels (shop paper towles).
I steel wool (#0000) in between coats only if I need to denib the finish. Once the finish is applied, I micro mesh (you can even do a very little 400 wet / dry). Once you get to the last 3 micro mesh you will see a great shine line appearing.
Most do it the other way. With other brand they use the thin to seal the wood. With GluBoost the medium seals and levels. The leveling is the most important. I want a nice smooth level surface to put the thin on so the thin only acts as the finish.
Thanks for watching and keep in touch and I hope to get to all questions.
NNNIIIICCCEEE!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Mark. I recently made my first attempt to finish a Gabion Ebony pen. Given it's color and oil content, it seemed to show any and all inconsistencies in the finish. I'd love to see how you would finish such a piece. Thanks.
When you say inconsistencies are you referring to the adhesion or surface? I don't do much with Ebony but let me see if I can get my hands on some and I will try it. I will let you know.
@@markdreyer2865 Thank you for replying. Since Gaboon makes for an even, flat black "canvas" for the finish it seemed to really show every imperfection. When I tried using Dr's Woodshop Pens Plus, it would show every inconsistency in the shine. Using CA, it shows every fleck that sits in the wood pores. In a clip shown in this August's virtual symposium, I heard you mention using lacquer. I thought I might try that next but then, in your latest video, you invited questions so I figured I'd ask. Look forward to your reply.
Watching turning videos and just happened on your vids. This is nate - Paul's son.
Oh man, in canada it's $30/bottle! Ouch. What was your go-to before gluboost? And how many pens do you get out of a bottle? I'm not selling (yet) and just getting interested so I don't want to put $100 into CA for half a dozen pens :D
Wow that is 50% over the traditional exchange rate. Here in the states it retails for about $14 bottle which is slightly higher than the competition, but only using 5 coats and the time savings (5 - 7 minutes) out ways the cost. And for me the consistency and ease make it a no-brainer for me to use. But our costs in the US are different.
My previous go-to was not necessarily the product, but the technique. I only used thin and sincerely it was a four day process. I had a 1/4" (almost 7mm) threaded rod. I would use the delrin bushings and put three coats of thin on a pen. Three was the max. Then I would "hang the pen, by putting a threaded eye bolt on one end and off a nail in the wall. Next day use a jacobs chuck to put the threaded rod in and three more coats. Light steel wool becore the three coats. Thread / hang / dry and then the final three coats. Thread / hang ./ dry. Then finish. I found most traditional CA medium was too thick to get consistent. Worked on some woods and not all - which was weird because I did the thin seal coats. My guess is the seal coats did not cure with oiler or exotic woods.
This technique will work - but the time involved is killer.
As for number of pens I need to do the math at some point because I have been asked that question before. As shown in the video I only use a few drops each time. I would comfortably guess I get between 30 - 50 pens from each set (blue and orange (thin)). I also advocate only a spritz of the accelerator - not a spray but I really don't know how that lasts. Next set I pull out I will count.
Hope this helps - thanks for watching and please keep the questions or comments coming.
Great video. I bought gluboost on your recommendation on another demo you done. It arrived today, once you have applied the two coats of blue then orange , your first demo I saw you then sanded. Is it best to sand and if so , how high? Would micro mesh be a good method? Kind Regards, keep up the good videos, I learn a lot from you so thank you.
Sorry for the delay. As mentioned in the video I use #0000 steel wool between coats (only if needed). After the last coat of orange and GluDry, I use micromesh. starting generally with the 4200 and going through 12000. Two things to remember about sanding. One - touch is important. I do not press to hard. The goal of each grit is to simply get the scratch marks out from the previous grit. And second sand paper / micromesh needs to be keep clean to be useful. Then I use Novus plastic polish and optionally a buffing wheel. Glass like finish. Hope this helps.
This video is almost 2 years old now. Has anything changed? Is this still your go-to finish or is there something even newer?
@DaveEP Nothing has changed - I still use it on every wooden pen I make. I have also started to use it on Alumilite pens that are clear cast to bring out a deeper clarity. I have another video on questions I have been asked over the last few years that should be up in the next week or so, but in general still my go-to. And my technique remains the same. Four to five coats, 2 Fill N Finish first - then 2 or 3 Fill N Finish thin. Have you tried it? Let me know your thoughts if you have. And thanks for watching ....
@@markdreyer2865 Thanks for the reply. I ordered some and it arrived today. From your video it seems you sand the bare blank to 4000, apply two coats of the blue (fill&finish) and two to three coats of the orange (thin) then buff. Is that it? No more sanding to 12000 etc "after" the GluBoost has been applied. Did I miss anything? One more question, how many cans of accelerator do you go through per bottle of glue?
@@MicroFourThirdsCorner Sorry if I was not clear in the video - I have not watched it in a while. After the thin I use very light #0000 steel wool (only if needed and honestly rarely needed). Then I go back over with all the micro-meshs. You can even go over with 400 grit first but very very very light. Did I mention very light. Then all micro-mesh and buff. As for the accelerator - be very gentle a spritz is all - not a full spray. Hit it quick and spritz. For me the accelerator lasts as long as the bottles (maybe a hair under but it depends on the woods I am working). Hope this helps. If you have anymore questions let me know. And let me know how you like iit.
great tips
how does the finish turn out with the lathe on? how many coats of thin do you use?
Sorry I missed this question. So sorry. "Lathe on" the same number of coats - 2 Fill N Finish and then 2 to 3 Fill n Finish Thin. The key to lathe on is not to press to hard into the blank. I see to many people press to hard into the blank and all the product ends up on the blue paper towel. Lathe off people tend to be more gentle.
Once again - sorry for the delay.
Thanks for the reply. I live in the Caribbean so the delay was not even noticed. To many rum and cokes. Glu Boost is definitely the best and easiest finish I have ever used on pens. The others don't even come close.
Do you use this finish on acrylic also?
On some of them. If the blank is a hybrid wood / acrylic - I do. I also feel that clear cast alumilite is not vibrant enough so I use it over clear cast alumilte. On PR or color cast I do not - but it does work. Hope this helps.
Where do you buy your Gluboost from?
@OConner4635 - I get mine from ExoticBlanks.com. I think Ed and Dawn have the best service and prices out there. Thanks for watching....