right! this build list is great for the east coast, but it is adding a few things and missing a few others you need for colorado and for moab. if you are buying a jeep wj, no matter the build height, if you want to be able to open your doors, you are going to need some sort of rock slider. number one priority. Next is a lift kit. in my experience, homemade sway bar disconnects, 2 inch puck lift, 2 inch wheel spacers, rock sliders, 31s, and a front end fender trim work really really well. If you want to go to 33s, a lift kit with arms is almost required. You have some options here. You can go with either long or short arms at this point. Some options for the short arms that are cheap and good are either rough country or zone offroad. Both seem to do well in my experience. For long arms, I only have experience with rough country arms and a mix of other parts. Once you have decided upon the arms you are going to use, then you can choose springs, as if you prefer springs different to the ones that come with your kit, you may be able to order the arms by themselves. If you have a 4.0 with the 242 t-case, you can get both yokes and double cardan driveshaft off the the v8 WJs and run them. And, if you are really on a budget, you can get JT gladiator rubicon take off shocks and there is a kit on amazon to convert them to fit the front end of the WJs. You can also get 33 in MTs or even ATs and 17 inch wheels from any rubicon, as the bolt patterns are the same and the offsets are close. And for a winch, currently some of the best, easiest, and strongest options are the kits that have a radiator guard, and fit just underneath the grill for best approach angle. If you want a full bumper, HK offroad offers a good one(He also offers just the hidden winch mount if you desire to run your stock bumper!) and if you appreciate a good stubby bumper, dTill fabworks has a good one as well.
My first wj mod was cold air intake then 2 inch lift it needed shocks any ways. Loaded It only wanted to do 55 uphill to Blackhawk, CO is why it got cold air intake. Next was the broken 44a rear shaft. The one with expensive 350$ shafts. The 125$ junkyard 35c was no where near close to working with my 2wd wj. So found a 30 and changed ball joints and to wj hubs. Ordered a dodge 4wd housing for trans oops. Made a shitty trans mount. Used zj transfer case. I also modified zj 3.5 inch lift for wj. Ended up with 4 inches of spacers on the rear plus extra spring height. Illegal here actually for road use. Sway bars act as limiting straps. And spacers for rear end as front axle was wider. Than blew 35c carrier to pieces and broke spot welds. Swapped a dodge transfer case in and got dodge trans mount and axles. The ram axles where an easy swap. Ram 44 front and 8.25 gives nice wide stance. The 97+ 8.25 is much stronger than a D35 and is actually comparable to a D44 but 8.25 housing is stronger.
I have a 4" RC long arm on my WJ I blew my CV style driveshaft twice (once on pavement without even being in 4wd) before I snatched a double cardan from a ZJ in the parts yard. The slip yoke eliminator on the rear is definitely a good idea!
right! this build list is great for the east coast, but it is adding a few things and missing a few others you need for colorado and for moab.
if you are buying a jeep wj, no matter the build height, if you want to be able to open your doors, you are going to need some sort of rock slider. number one priority.
Next is a lift kit. in my experience, homemade sway bar disconnects, 2 inch puck lift, 2 inch wheel spacers, rock sliders, 31s, and a front end fender trim work really really well.
If you want to go to 33s, a lift kit with arms is almost required. You have some options here. You can go with either long or short arms at this point.
Some options for the short arms that are cheap and good are either rough country or zone offroad. Both seem to do well in my experience.
For long arms, I only have experience with rough country arms and a mix of other parts.
Once you have decided upon the arms you are going to use, then you can choose springs, as if you prefer springs different to the ones that come with your kit, you may be able to order the arms by themselves.
If you have a 4.0 with the 242 t-case, you can get both yokes and double cardan driveshaft off the the v8 WJs and run them. And, if you are really on a budget, you can get JT gladiator rubicon take off shocks and there is a kit on amazon to convert them to fit the front end of the WJs.
You can also get 33 in MTs or even ATs and 17 inch wheels from any rubicon, as the bolt patterns are the same and the offsets are close.
And for a winch, currently some of the best, easiest, and strongest options are the kits that have a radiator guard, and fit just underneath the grill for best approach angle. If you want a full bumper, HK offroad offers a good one(He also offers just the hidden winch mount if you desire to run your stock bumper!) and if you appreciate a good stubby bumper, dTill fabworks has a good one as well.
My first wj mod was cold air intake then 2 inch lift it needed shocks any ways. Loaded It only wanted to do 55 uphill to Blackhawk, CO is why it got cold air intake. Next was the broken 44a rear shaft. The one with expensive 350$ shafts. The 125$ junkyard 35c was no where near close to working with my 2wd wj. So found a 30 and changed ball joints and to wj hubs. Ordered a dodge 4wd housing for trans oops. Made a shitty trans mount. Used zj transfer case. I also modified zj 3.5 inch lift for wj. Ended up with 4 inches of spacers on the rear plus extra spring height. Illegal here actually for road use. Sway bars act as limiting straps. And spacers for rear end as front axle was wider. Than blew 35c carrier to pieces and broke spot welds. Swapped a dodge transfer case in and got dodge trans mount and axles. The ram axles where an easy swap. Ram 44 front and 8.25 gives nice wide stance. The 97+ 8.25 is much stronger than a D35 and is actually comparable to a D44 but 8.25 housing is stronger.
also, you only need drive shafts if going above 4.5 inches. If you do go above that, a slip yoke elimanator is recommended for the rear.
I have a 4" RC long arm on my WJ I blew my CV style driveshaft twice (once on pavement without even being in 4wd) before I snatched a double cardan from a ZJ in the parts yard. The slip yoke eliminator on the rear is definitely a good idea!
What size are those bfg mud terrains?
2004 wj. Send me a light bar. Lol