Thanks Olivia. Today I learned two new techniques. First, using the clove hitch as the backup rather than connecting the lower prussik to the belay loop. Simply ingenious. Second, using the garda hitch for a much smoother raising of the foot loop. I Have been been a climber for many years, and this is just another example that you can always learn something new if you're willing to listen. Your videos are very very good. Simple, well explained and to the point. Good job!
Thank, it's true that multitude of Instructors that are able to demonstrate the Techniques we could learn Tons of Skills and Knowledge. Unlike some instructors they just talks while on the ground and unable to show/demonstrate how the system and techniques works. You are one of the few mentors that is reliable source of information and knowledge. Again, thank you.
Very informative. I am a tree climber. These techniques are not my primary methods, but if you drop some gear, find it out of reach or fouled, reconfiguring for progress always beats no progress. Surprises happen and you have to deal with them.
I have just tried the Garda Hitch for the foot + Clove Hitch as a backup. It works incredibly well since the non loaded strand from the Garda Hitch is always readily accessible from above and can be used to smoothly move the hitch. Thanks for showing the technique!
Thank you for the video, very informative. May I ask for a second video where you show us different possibilities to change the systems from ascent to descend. Thanks in advance
This is how I am learning to climb, but I haven't figured out which prusik hitches and knots I am most comfortable using yet with my ropes. So far it has been great fun!
This is the very and only one of the moments I can imagine being over there. I’d so would love to be teached by someone like you. Yeah, my mom and dad should never know where I climbed when young and dreaming of being a professional mountain climber...which I am not, but I make improvements. This is one of the reasons I could possibly reconsider moving back to my native countries Finland and Sweden. Thank you/ Denmark is a flat country...
When i jumar and use a grigri as back up to prevent cross loading i use a DMM carabiner which has a gate for the belay loop to pass through at the bottom which prevents the movement of the carabiner reducing the chance of cross loading (obviously the grigri could still move into a cross load position)
coming from tree climbing using a short sling or cord around the neck or chest + attached to the micro traxion when ascending using the garda method. It would tend the pulley as you stand. you could then just advance the garda and as you stand up your neck tether will tend the traxion
Thank you! Very informative video. Other ascending tutorials give the impression that the only way to ascend the rope is to use expensive Jumar's, but this video makes it much more easy with just leg slings.
And what she left out is the fact that there are about 6-8 different types of rope climbing knots, many of them superior to the classic klemheist. The Bachmann knot for example functions almost like an improvised ascender, where the carabiner used as part of the Bachmann knot can be grabbed like an ascender handle and very easily slid up the rope. The Valdotain Tresse knot is superior to classic prusik setups as well because it doesn't have to be loosened first before moving it higher up the rope.
Very nice video, Girth hitch your foot.prusik. The carabiner attached to the belay device to the harness should have the rope at the basket and the belay loop at the crotch of the carabiner.
In the first setup, why use two different friction hitches? (Prusik for waist, klemheist for foot). Also, could you girth hitch a single length sling through the double length foot attachments in these setups in order to pull/push up with both legs, instead of one foot stacked on top of the other? Never really had to ascent like this before, not sure if that would be beneficial at all. Great video, thanks!
Just a quick note on the first system you presented. If your upper prusik fails and your footloop is wrapped around your foot, you may fall and hang upsidedown from your foot, given enough slack on the clove hitch. That would be a nasty fall and situation to get out of.
That first part made my butthole pucker up. I get that all of that stuff is well within it’s working limits but just that back up with just the Clovehitch was freaking me out. I always do one micro on the foot, one right at waist that just rides along unless it’s needed and an ascender up top. It is great to know the basics for emergency situations though, so great video
Your awesome. ...nice demo,,,,, isn’t the somewhat neglected clove hitch backup kinda risky,,, it’s goin to break your body if used? Also the weight of the rope helps slide upwards doesn’t it
So at 2:15... A nice way to ensure that your caribiner won't cross load like that is to secure it in one place, by either girthing or cloving the prussic cord onto the small end of it, which keeps it oriented the correct way.
Great video but a little mistake on the ratio hauling system. Redirecting the rope above on a carabiner makes it easier because it's easier to pull down than to lift the rope with your arm but it doesn't change the ratio which is still 2:1 A common mistake probably because it looks very much the same as the classic hauling system to rescue a person from a crevasse with 3:1 demultiplication...
Climbing is just so interesting to me, I was really wondering how it all worked and enjoy learning about gear and procedure, that carbiner being the only thing that's holding you up crossloading that easily seems scary, I've heard people talk about how great spring gate carabiners are but if the carabiner crossloads right on that gate, that would scare the crap out of me, or is it automatic that you only use locking carabiners for harnesses?
Be careful with the grigri setup at 2:30. If a ascending device above the grigri slips and slides down, it can hit the cam, hold it down, and release the grigri too.
Good point. I'm thinking of a setup like this for ascending rope for climbing photography while using most of the gear I have. Except I would use an ascender with the sling for comfort and ease. I think she's backed up with a clove hitch but it seems like people frown upon that as well... is there a better way to back it up? Or a better tool than the Grigri for that particular setup?
@@CookieMonsteeerrr yeah she is you're right...I just watched it back. I guess it might be an idea to tie catastrophe knots every now and then as opposed to just backing up the end of the rope (also useful for hauling it back up quickly!)
That´s fine for a summer.good weather enviroment. But if the enviroment tends to freeze, the rope and all the safety material are restricted in its funcionability. And if snow (and in the Andes where I used to climb) things will be worse and dramatic if this operation goes to self rescue o haul a person from a crevasse. Cold, wind, tiring and panic changes all the theory. So, think and prepare yourself before the climb.
So i have another question. Olivia said in subtitles "here I have used the hollow block which i find works pretty well for me as my waist prusik attachment". What does it mean - the hollow block? Maybe she wanted to say about HMS carabiner as her waist prusik attachment.
Thanks for this video. I am looking at solution to ascend a rope for climbing pictures. It does leave me with some question: - Why no mentions of ascender ? Based on what I read, it's seems the most appropriate solution (and the added weight is "only" ~150g) - I always wondered if micro traction and such are gonna make my rope wear faster because of their teeth. And if you have any recommendation on how to ascend a rope quickly but securely enough so I can let all go and take pictures, it would be very welcome. Anyhow, thanks for all your education videos !
the grigri, reverso, and micro traxion are all devices that can be used as ascenders :) plus you're more likely to be climbing with something like a grigri or reverso. and the micro traxion might make your stuff wear faster, but it probably is dependent on a bunch of things like how hard you're yanking on the rope (how much it bites), the diameter of the rope, and whether or not it's when when you're using it in the device. or something like that....
I take this video as instruction on how to climb a rope in a situation in which your intention starting out was not to climb the rope. In other words...how to use what you have with you in an emergency. If your intention starting out is to climb a rope there are definitely easier ways to do so. Copied and pasted from Petzl website...."Despite their aggressive appearance, the teeth on the BASIC or ASCENSION are not harmful to the rope in normal use." Same teeth as micro traction.
I took a rope but forgot everything else scenario? ;)Maybe the minimalism here is to save weight (e.g. when you have to hike few km before reaching the climbing zone)? Still, as a beginner I prefer to use Hand, chest and foot ascender and a D4 for descent. I weighs a lot more but such set up is very forgiving and easier to use when you weigh more...
Thanks, that´s a great instructional video. Just one question, in regular multi-pitch rock climbing, when do you ever need this? I could just imagine if you fall in a difficult overhang and are unable to top-rope up again?
Good tutorial. However, and all of the climbing tutorials on TH-cam show instructors anchoring directly to the belay/rap loop of the harness. That loop is very solid, typically rated to 22kN (~5000 lbs). However, just some minor wear & tear can reduce the strength significantly, particularly when the wear is on the stitching. Add a $3 loop of 7mm cord in parallel and clip both as a bit of redundancy. Don't be Todd Skinner. And that rope clutch is a great thing to have in the climber's toolkit. Comes in handy just about anywhere for many applications.
Hi there, Thank you for the great videos. I am a complete novice and I just wondered if the first method shown would be the best to learn first. The other methods look a little more complicated for not much more distance, how do you decide which you use. Many thanks
When you shown grigri example its obvious it works as bloker but you could also lower down if there is a need but if we take a look on reverso example its only works as bloker but its i possible to lower down. Am i right?
I was using that exact Garda Hitch method with the Micro Traxion recently and... Either the carabiner jammed the device from below, or, I was grabbing the Micro Traxion in a weird way, and its cam opened up. The device, apparently being partly open, with me attached, slid down the rope (while shredding it) for a few feet before hitting a catastrophe knot I had tied. Luckily I was able to get to a ledge to rappel down. Can anyone explain what they think may have happened on this rope ascension? Spooked me pretty bad.
This video was great! I used two of those Techniques on my trip to Bishop! For taking pictures. Was wondering if you can make a video where you can transition from ascending to descending. Let's say you don't want to go to the anchor and just switch to rappelling. Would that be possible?
I know this isn't a video but thought I'd pop in with what I do. I typically would use an ATC to ascend on (the guide style one demonstrated here is the same as mine), then when I want to switch to descend put another piece of equipment (a simple prusik would do) to replace the ATC and act as my waist point. It's easier if you place this piece of gear above the ATC. Next, I'd step up on my leg and remove the ATC (you need to unweight it). Then use your ATC for descent as you would normally rapp. (Stow all the rest of your gear first or you'll make a mighty mess) For the reverse do the reverse.... stop rappelling....put a temp. prussik in to maintain your position then set the ATC back up to ascend. If you're super spoilt and don't care about weight this whole thing is easier with a chest ascender, a super long static rope set up double, an etrier and jammer and an industrial descender all backed up with an asap lock :D (that might make them some pricey pics!!)
@@tm-worldwide @Reynaldo Lopez Easier still, use a grigri as your progress capture device and a prusik/hollow block/ascender (easiest option) on a foot sling to move upwards. When you want to stop ascending and rappel, simply remove the prusik and rappel using your grigri (or equivalent).
Thanks for that. Question though (sorry if it's dumb): if I have to rope ascend at the crux with no possibility of lowering back off to ground (say a big overhang and void below), I will be roped up. So how do I move from being roped up to having a biner on my belay loop?
I don't understand how you would get in this situation. If you are rappelling, you wouldn't be roped up, you'd be on an ATC or something. If you are top roping, you would be able to lower, or get hauled up by your partner if they're top belaying. If you are lead climbing, you would not be able to ascend since the rope is below you.
It is a possible scenario when you are seconding, fall below a big overhang and the rope is stuck in a crack, so you can't get lowered or helped. I would suggest you ascend above the overhang and make a Butterfly Loop or Bowline on a Blight on the non loaded strand and attach it with a biner to your belay loop. You could replace the backup Clove Hitch from the video with it.
Why does the foot loop need to be above the grigri? I've seen people use the grigri with a foot ascender and that's well below the waist. Is there a safety issue with this setup?
The reason to why the foot loop has to be above the Grigri is because it makes moving up the rope when the device is cross loaded, near if not impossible to ascend since its main purpose is to a) brake or b) fully stop a fall by pinching the rope in which the climber is tied in to.
You can use a girth hitch or a bull hitch to prevent cross loading th-cam.com/video/cS3o9lJsmuU/w-d-xo.html Also I think a similar video focused on retrieving a stuck rappel rope would be great. Slightly changes things up since you might have two ends of the rope
Because if you stand on a lower attachment point then the GriGri will be locked off and won't move up. But no worries, its much better that way. Crossing the lip at the top is nasty if your foot attachment is below your harness attachment.
I’ve had scary moments with cross loading the binner the only way to keep peace of mind for me was to place it through the harness loops and not on the belay loop if that makes sense that way it always stays up right
Nothing like having data connection 400 ft into a multi pitch to youtube 'something real quick'. Thanks!
One of my favourite channels. No unnecessary distracting chatter: just good, clear explanation of what's happening.
In france we have only fuc**** morons, thinking they are funny doing silly things while explaining something as important as this. ****
Great to see different methods from "no special equipment at all" to "using all the good stuff".
That's such a slick use of the garda hitch, never thought of that!
Thanks Olivia. Today I learned two new techniques. First, using the clove hitch as the backup rather than connecting the lower prussik to the belay loop. Simply ingenious. Second, using the garda hitch for a much smoother raising of the foot loop. I Have been been a climber for many years, and this is just another example that you can always learn something new if you're willing to listen. Your videos are very very good. Simple, well explained and to the point. Good job!
mee too, both those things. How good is it going to be trying that garda with a chest ascender. So fast
☝️ I agree with Sergio
Kikitz , I’ll going to try that set up ...garda/chest asc. Combo. Sounds legit!
Same feelings as well
My favorite rope ascending video on YT! Thank you!
Thank, it's true that multitude of Instructors that are able to demonstrate the Techniques we could learn Tons of Skills and Knowledge. Unlike some instructors they just talks while on the ground and unable to show/demonstrate how the system and techniques works.
You are one of the few mentors that is reliable source of information and knowledge.
Again, thank you.
Very informative. I am a tree climber. These techniques are not my primary methods, but if you drop some gear, find it out of reach or fouled, reconfiguring for progress always beats no progress. Surprises happen and you have to deal with them.
The foot attachment with 2 carabiner is amazing and genial ! Thks Olivia :-)
This is one of the best climbing instructional videos I’ve ever seen. Thank you!
I have just tried the Garda Hitch for the foot + Clove Hitch as a backup. It works incredibly well since the non loaded strand from the Garda Hitch is always readily accessible from above and can be used to smoothly move the hitch. Thanks for showing the technique!
Thank you for this Video. This is the best summary out on TH-cam for this whole topic. Great work.
5min in your personal fav is now my personal fav. Your awesome, keep winning!
Wow nice summary of several techniques! Thank you!
Garda was dope. I have never seen that.
05:00
Just the tutorial I was looking for. Never even heard of the Garda method - and can’t wait to try it. Many thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Super informational . And have three of those tools already in my box and eger to employ shiny new tools.
Thank you for the video, very informative. May I ask for a second video where you show us different possibilities to change the systems from ascent to descend. Thanks in advance
good instructions, good techniques, well explained.
Thank you Olivia! This video is very useful! I think it can save many lives!
This was ones of the best videos I’ve seen
This is how I am learning to climb, but I haven't figured out which prusik hitches and knots I am most comfortable using yet with my ropes. So far it has been great fun!
Thank you very much, your presentation is very clear and easy to learn and have added more safety ideas to my data base.
Cheers, Olivia. These tips are very helpful! Carefully explained and professionally demonstrated.
This is absolutely the best video I ever seen, Thank you Olivia.
Thats some great audio. Well done.
This is a fantastic resource. Thanks guys 🙏.
Thanks .. I learnt some cool techniques hope to use them in the Himalayas
Coming from other disciplines entirely, this is a badass and handy tutorial!
This is the very and only one of the moments I can imagine being over there. I’d so would love to be teached by someone like you. Yeah, my mom and dad should never know where I climbed when young and dreaming of being a professional mountain climber...which I am not, but I make improvements. This is one of the reasons I could possibly reconsider moving back to my native countries Finland and Sweden. Thank you/ Denmark is a flat country...
Backing up with the clove hitch is a great idea. I also like the Garda hitch for the foot, hadn’t seen that before. Excellent video!
I like the double carabiner trick. Nice one.
Thank you so much for this (the prossick one) was exactly the simple setting I was looking for
When i jumar and use a grigri as back up to prevent cross loading i use a DMM carabiner which has a gate for the belay loop to pass through at the bottom which prevents the movement of the carabiner reducing the chance of cross loading (obviously the grigri could still move into a cross load position)
coming from tree climbing using a short sling or cord around the neck or chest + attached to the micro traxion when ascending using the garda method. It would tend the pulley as you stand. you could then just advance the garda and as you stand up your neck tether will tend the traxion
Thank you! Very informative video. Other ascending tutorials give the impression that the only way to ascend the rope is to use expensive Jumar's, but this video makes it much more easy with just leg slings.
And what she left out is the fact that there are about 6-8 different types of rope climbing knots, many of them superior to the classic klemheist. The Bachmann knot for example functions almost like an improvised ascender, where the carabiner used as part of the Bachmann knot can be grabbed like an ascender handle and very easily slid up the rope. The Valdotain Tresse knot is superior to classic prusik setups as well because it doesn't have to be loosened first before moving it higher up the rope.
Another great, well-produced video. Great stuff! Thank you!
Very nice video, Girth hitch your foot.prusik. The carabiner attached to the belay device to the harness should have the rope at the basket and the belay loop at the crotch of the carabiner.
Very nice demonstration. Usefull tips. Thank You. Cheers!
Thx very useful. What if we need to descend a bit during climb ? Cheers
thank you Olivia you taught dog a new trick
Love it! Can I use a King Dock device instead of micro traction?
Tanks,I learned new techniques from this video..
That was a great video. Learned something new. Thank you very much.
Thank you for the garda hitch. Well done
In the first setup, why use two different friction hitches? (Prusik for waist, klemheist for foot). Also, could you girth hitch a single length sling through the double length foot attachments in these setups in order to pull/push up with both legs, instead of one foot stacked on top of the other? Never really had to ascent like this before, not sure if that would be beneficial at all. Great video, thanks!
Just a quick note on the first system you presented. If your upper prusik fails and your footloop is wrapped around your foot, you may fall and hang upsidedown from your foot, given enough slack on the clove hitch. That would be a nasty fall and situation to get out of.
Very well explained ❤
That first part made my butthole pucker up. I get that all of that stuff is well within it’s working limits but just that back up with just the Clovehitch was freaking me out. I always do one micro on the foot, one right at waist that just rides along unless it’s needed and an ascender up top. It is great to know the basics for emergency situations though, so great video
I think the 3-1 system with grigri and prussik is my fave, whatever least damages rope
It’s a 2 to 1 mechanical advantage...
@@ricardocabeza6006 not the one I use xd
@@rickytrockclimbing2935... What she demonstrates is a 2 to 1. She mistakenly calls it a 3 to 1.
@@ricardocabeza6006 yes but I don't use that, I use a 3 - 1
@@rickytrockclimbing2935... Nice. What’s your set up for that on a fixed line?
How is the single rope set up? Every where I climb is double rope and I’m not sure how to apply this to it.
An ATC in guide mode works well for two strands.
nice vid, really thorough and helpful
Your awesome. ...nice demo,,,,, isn’t the somewhat neglected clove hitch backup kinda risky,,, it’s goin to break your body if used? Also the weight of the rope helps slide upwards doesn’t it
How about the ease of changeover for each method. Using the rap device as your ascender could add to complexity when changing to rappel. Great video
Excellent audio
So at 2:15... A nice way to ensure that your caribiner won't cross load like that is to secure it in one place, by either girthing or cloving the prussic cord onto the small end of it, which keeps it oriented the correct way.
Great summary of the different devices and configurations. That's a 2:1 mechanical advantage (with a change of direction) at 4:21 by the way. Not 3:1
Yes! Thank you! Although, it kind of ruins her credibility in my mind.
THANKS FOR THE VIDEO !
Thanks for sharing.
Good explanation! How do I switch to descent, when I am hanging in a ascent system?
Great video but a little mistake on the ratio hauling system. Redirecting the rope above on a carabiner makes it easier because it's easier to pull down than to lift the rope with your arm but it doesn't change the ratio which is still 2:1
A common mistake probably because it looks very much the same as the classic hauling system to rescue a person from a crevasse with 3:1 demultiplication...
Climbing is just so interesting to me, I was really wondering how it all worked and enjoy learning about gear and procedure, that carbiner being the only thing that's holding you up crossloading that easily seems scary, I've heard people talk about how great spring gate carabiners are but if the carabiner crossloads right on that gate, that would scare the crap out of me, or is it automatic that you only use locking carabiners for harnesses?
Be careful with the grigri setup at 2:30. If a ascending device above the grigri slips and slides down, it can hit the cam, hold it down, and release the grigri too.
Good point. I'm thinking of a setup like this for ascending rope for climbing photography while using most of the gear I have. Except I would use an ascender with the sling for comfort and ease. I think she's backed up with a clove hitch but it seems like people frown upon that as well... is there a better way to back it up? Or a better tool than the Grigri for that particular setup?
@@andrewenglishsc Tie a stopper knot below you as you ascend. If the gri gri doesn't lock, it will catch on the knot. An overhand knot works well.
@@essbeard Like this...an "oh shit" knot. We don't mind what flavour :D
But she already has additional backup in carabiner down below. Isnt enough?
@@CookieMonsteeerrr yeah she is you're right...I just watched it back. I guess it might be an idea to tie catastrophe knots every now and then as opposed to just backing up the end of the rope (also useful for hauling it back up quickly!)
Show de bola, parabéns pela técnicas apresentadas
take the sling along the inside of the leg and it will stop the leg kicking out. Also link the leg sling to you and you have two pieces protecting you
That´s fine for a summer.good weather enviroment. But if the enviroment tends to freeze, the rope and all the safety material are restricted in its funcionability. And if snow (and in the Andes where I used to climb) things will be worse and dramatic if this operation goes to self rescue o haul a person from a crevasse. Cold, wind, tiring and panic changes all the theory. So, think and prepare yourself before the climb.
So i have another question. Olivia said in subtitles "here I have used the hollow block which i find works pretty well for me as my waist prusik attachment".
What does it mean - the hollow block? Maybe she wanted to say about HMS carabiner as her waist prusik attachment.
She's referring to the Sterling Hollow Block which she uses instead of a regular prussik cord
@@shawnrezendes1165, thank you very much!!! So i've never heard about it before. We use cord 6mm for prusik hitch .
Not sure why I'm watching this, but thanks for the free info.
Thanks for this video. I am looking at solution to ascend a rope for climbing pictures.
It does leave me with some question:
- Why no mentions of ascender ? Based on what I read, it's seems the most appropriate solution (and the added weight is "only" ~150g)
- I always wondered if micro traction and such are gonna make my rope wear faster because of their teeth.
And if you have any recommendation on how to ascend a rope quickly but securely enough so I can let all go and take pictures, it would be very welcome.
Anyhow, thanks for all your education videos !
the grigri, reverso, and micro traxion are all devices that can be used as ascenders :) plus you're more likely to be climbing with something like a grigri or reverso. and the micro traxion might make your stuff wear faster, but it probably is dependent on a bunch of things like how hard you're yanking on the rope (how much it bites), the diameter of the rope, and whether or not it's when when you're using it in the device. or something like that....
I take this video as instruction on how to climb a rope in a situation in which your intention starting out was not to climb the rope. In other words...how to use what you have with you in an emergency.
If your intention starting out is to climb a rope there are definitely easier ways to do so.
Copied and pasted from Petzl website...."Despite their aggressive appearance, the teeth on the BASIC or ASCENSION are not harmful to the rope in normal use." Same teeth as micro traction.
I took a rope but forgot everything else scenario? ;)Maybe the minimalism here is to save weight (e.g. when you have to hike few km before reaching the climbing zone)? Still, as a beginner I prefer to use Hand, chest and foot ascender and a D4 for descent. I weighs a lot more but such set up is very forgiving and easier to use when you weigh more...
if your going out solely to ascend a rope to take pictures you shouyld google, 'unicender by rock exotica'
You are great...thank you
Thanks, that´s a great instructional video. Just one question, in regular multi-pitch rock climbing, when do you ever need this? I could just imagine if you fall in a difficult overhang and are unable to top-rope up again?
Good tutorial. However, and all of the climbing tutorials on TH-cam show instructors anchoring directly to the belay/rap loop of the harness. That loop is very solid, typically rated to 22kN (~5000 lbs). However, just some minor wear & tear can reduce the strength significantly, particularly when the wear is on the stitching. Add a $3 loop of 7mm cord in parallel and clip both as a bit of redundancy. Don't be Todd Skinner.
And that rope clutch is a great thing to have in the climber's toolkit. Comes in handy just about anywhere for many applications.
Hi there,
Thank you for the great videos.
I am a complete novice and I just wondered if the first method shown would be the best to learn first. The other methods look a little more complicated for not much more distance, how do you decide which you use.
Many thanks
Thanks olivia
For the Garda - is there a way to set up if you've fallen in space without a way to step up to get slack?
great video, thank you
Thank you olivia .. what kind of knot did you use on garda Hitch please thank you
When you shown grigri example its obvious it works as bloker but you could also lower down if there is a need but if we take a look on reverso example its only works as bloker but its i possible to lower down. Am i right?
very nice, good jod ilikes this channel n subcribe
Well done
would you use a tibloc instead of a micro traxion?
I was using that exact Garda Hitch method with the Micro Traxion recently and... Either the carabiner jammed the device from below, or, I was grabbing the Micro Traxion in a weird way, and its cam opened up. The device, apparently being partly open, with me attached, slid down the rope (while shredding it) for a few feet before hitting a catastrophe knot I had tied. Luckily I was able to get to a ledge to rappel down. Can anyone explain what they think may have happened on this rope ascension? Spooked me pretty bad.
Would this stuff work well on my 11.7 mm hyper limb rope?
This video was great! I used two of those Techniques on my trip to Bishop! For taking pictures. Was wondering if you can make a video where you can transition from ascending to descending. Let's say you don't want to go to the anchor and just switch to rappelling. Would that be possible?
I know this isn't a video but thought I'd pop in with what I do. I typically would use an ATC to ascend on (the guide style one demonstrated here is the same as mine), then when I want to switch to descend put another piece of equipment (a simple prusik would do) to replace the ATC and act as my waist point. It's easier if you place this piece of gear above the ATC. Next, I'd step up on my leg and remove the ATC (you need to unweight it). Then use your ATC for descent as you would normally rapp. (Stow all the rest of your gear first or you'll make a mighty mess)
For the reverse do the reverse.... stop rappelling....put a temp. prussik in to maintain your position then set the ATC back up to ascend.
If you're super spoilt and don't care about weight this whole thing is easier with a chest ascender, a super long static rope set up double, an etrier and jammer and an industrial descender all backed up with an asap lock :D (that might make them some pricey pics!!)
@@tm-worldwide @Reynaldo Lopez Easier still, use a grigri as your progress capture device and a prusik/hollow block/ascender (easiest option) on a foot sling to move upwards. When you want to stop ascending and rappel, simply remove the prusik and rappel using your grigri (or equivalent).
thanks oliva
Thanks for that. Question though (sorry if it's dumb): if I have to rope ascend at the crux with no possibility of lowering back off to ground (say a big overhang and void below), I will be roped up. So how do I move from being roped up to having a biner on my belay loop?
I don't understand how you would get in this situation. If you are rappelling, you wouldn't be roped up, you'd be on an ATC or something. If you are top roping, you would be able to lower, or get hauled up by your partner if they're top belaying. If you are lead climbing, you would not be able to ascend since the rope is below you.
It is a possible scenario when you are seconding, fall below a big overhang and the rope is stuck in a crack, so you can't get lowered or helped. I would suggest you ascend above the overhang and make a Butterfly Loop or Bowline on a Blight on the non loaded strand and attach it with a biner to your belay loop. You could replace the backup Clove Hitch from the video with it.
Can you use the guarda in place of the hollow block for ascending with the grigri?
Thank you 👍🏽
Muito boa dica de ascensão
Please how to descend
half way up if one is stuck ...can one rappel down?
Why does the foot loop need to be above the grigri? I've seen people use the grigri with a foot ascender and that's well below the waist. Is there a safety issue with this setup?
The reason to why the foot loop has to be above the Grigri is because it makes moving up the rope when the device is cross loaded, near if not impossible to ascend since its main purpose is to a) brake or b) fully stop a fall by pinching the rope in which the climber is tied in to.
What happens if your prusik fails and you are saved by your clove hitch? How do you get down from there with the tension on the clove hitch?
You figure it out
or you don’t but those are your choices
very nice
You can use a girth hitch or a bull hitch to prevent cross loading th-cam.com/video/cS3o9lJsmuU/w-d-xo.html
Also I think a similar video focused on retrieving a stuck rappel rope would be great. Slightly changes things up since you might have two ends of the rope
Question: why does the prusik to stand up in have to be above the device when using a grigri Ort micro as waist attachment?
Because if you stand on a lower attachment point then the GriGri will be locked off and won't move up. But no worries, its much better that way. Crossing the lip at the top is nasty if your foot attachment is below your harness attachment.
How can i ascend super saiyan blue ?
Easy way to tie the garda on the looking carabiner from harness
I’ve had scary moments with cross loading the binner the only way to keep peace of mind for me was to place it through the harness loops and not on the belay loop if that makes sense that way it always stays up right
Thanks!