I just got to say, I am a home remodeler and I do some roof repair. I was in a situation where I needed a knot to tie in my carabiner so that I could go up and down the roof and pressure wash. This bachman knot worked amazingly just to keep me safe and Save a ton of time. So I want to say thank you for posting it and in the right condition this is a great alternative.
Jrad Jordanian do yourself a favor and spend 30 on a ATC and a Prusik loop at minimum before you fall. Using this knot as a lifeline is a horrible idea and should never be done.
There are a lot of us who are new to saddle hunting. I believe many would do well to watch your videos and create your own back up safety knots in case you have a mechanical failure. I know I will. Thanks for clear demonstrations.
I've learned from other videos so far that the kleimhiest friction hitch is better for rappelling out of a tree because it's easier to slide under load. And the hedden friction hitch is the best back up because it takes more load than any other. But the good ole prusik is never a bad choice.
Over 10years ago I was told do a reef knot when doing prusik loop. Now I learnt the double fisherman's loop. Thanks for the tutorial! Hi from Australia!🙂👍👍👍
Never use a reef knot for applications that do not have constant tension. The reef knot will come undone (unless you back it up with more knots). As far as I understand it, the reef knot has no use in climbing applications apart from tying your shoe laces and securing a butterfly coil backpack around your waist.
This seems slightly misleading. On a wet or icy lines, all friction based ascenders like this are likely to fail catastrophically. Only cam based, toothed ascenders should be used on icy or wet lines. This may be easier to grip with gloves, but that doesn't make it appropriate for those conditions
This. Respectfully, I think that the responsible thing for this uploader to do is to take this video down. Friction hitches and ascender/descender systems carry a huge level of risk, and if you wanna be someone who talks about them, you need to be someone who actually knows what you're talking about, and pays attention. There's other misinformation in this vid as well.
I can’t speak for ice, but I have used this method in training exercises and on law enforcement/rescue ops. It’s not the best option out there, but it does work in a pinch. Has yet to ever fail. Tied and true in both wet and dry environments.
Nope, if it failed it would soon run at full speed. A bachmann offers less friction than a standard prussik because the carabiner touching the rope does not add additional friction.
This is not the only very VERY dangerous video from the same guy. He has learned some knots and talks about them as if he knows them and their weaknesses. He does not.
@ 4:30 never grip carabiner for ascending, all the friction comes from downward pressure on loose end. If you grab that carabiner for a handhold, you will meet the ground very fast. Only for sliding up.
first and foremost..any double finshermans you need more tail. second, for icy/wet conditions; use an ascender. stay safe and gain knowledge from professionals and not the internet
Bachman (or it's cousin the Klemhist hitch) on an icy rope is pretty sketchy. The only advantage the Bachman or Klemhist has over Prussiik is they can be tied with webbing and still work on dry ropes. Still a great hitch to know, just make sure you know it's limitations and wet icy ropes are one of them.
I've been using prusiks. They tend to bind up after being under load. This one looks easier to move up the rope after loading. I'm going to give it a try. (yes, I will back it up with another system)
Totally incorrect information. Is NOT a good tool for icy ropes. And pulling down on the carabiner would result in you falling. Pull this video, it’s dangerous.
Every video ive seen from this guy has the same comment section. Actual climbers calling out his lack of information. I don't climb and i can tell hes a phony, by his lack of confidence and his terminology.
Just to preface I am not a qualified climber, or even a hobby climber, so this guy likely has more experience than me, however that being said even to the untrained eye it is obvious this ascending knot requires friction to function. I highly doubt this guy is qualified to teach this knot, and him coming onto to youtube and posting this as if he knows what hes talking about is downright reckless and could end with someone losing their life or being seriously injured. This guy seems like a weekend warrior, I find it difficult to speculate this guy has military training. He has also posted a video on how to use a riggers belt to emergency descend, in which he made numerous fatal mistakes. This knot may work but the problem is this guy is trying to teach these knots as if he has some type of formal training. And people who are none the wiser will see this video and trust their lives on this knot. It shows a lack or self awareness, a lack of respect for others and just general impotence. I will watch videos from ACTUAL Green Beret's and SF trained guys if you know military you know this guy is a try-hard fraud. I Don't like being overly critical but this guy keeps posting videos as if he is somehow qualified in the things he speaks on and from this video alone that is obviously not the case. This video could be fatal or result in serious injury, it should be removed along with his other climbing videos for their outright callous disregard for human life.
Works fine although the user always has the responsibility to use the ‘friction hitch’ properly and approximately. I think Jen Yates is overstating her point. It’s not dangerous properly used.
I keep trying to practice this on a practice carabiner and there is no gripping whatsoever. It just slides up and down like nothing. Does it have to be wet and icy....
David Hutchison that's because this guy doesn't know what he's talking about. As others have mentioned, this should not be used for ascending any rope, wet or dry.
You can use this for acenssion I just wouldn't use it on a wet rope I have used it on drdry ropes most my life climbing over 10 yrs and never had an issue by I use it with a foot sling attached to the end of the rope hanging off the carabiner and only use the carabiner to slack off the rope after I have pulled up any extra rope gained through my croll device , this bloke demonstrating just has no idea of how to use I tt correctly :/
Ive used it too, in the exact way you described. Having a toothed chest ascender like a croll is key. Even if the bachmann slips a little, the load will just transfer to the chest ascender. On a dry rope the knot isn’t going to slip much, if at all...especially if, like you mentioned, you pull the slack out of the bachmann wraps before applying a load to the knot (like stepping in a foot loop). In a pinch, it can do the job of hand ascender/foot loop, no problem...as long as you know how to use it. But like you said, it doesn’t seem like the guy in the vid actually knows. He didn’t even mention the most important part. If you’re using a rope instead of a sling, the rope needs to be a smaller diameter than your main rope...otherwise it’s going to have trouble gripping. Friction hitches have been around a lot longer than ascending devices. They may not be as convenient, but they work. I wouldn’t want to try an icy rope without something with teeth though, thats for sure.
Are you using two ropes of the same diameter? That won’t work. The bachmann’s rope has to be a smaller diameter than your main rope, or it won’t be able to curve enough to grip your main rope. Another option is to make your wraps with a loop sling instead of a prusik loop. This is probably the most important thing to know about the bachmann knot. Wasn’t mentioned in the video🤔
bazawhacha it works well as a substitute for a hand ascender...better than a prusik or klemheist. Its much easier to release the tension on the rope by sliding the carabiner up the rope. To get maximum friction, i hold the carabiner in one hand, then pull down on the loop with the other hand, getting all the wraps tight before putting my weight into a foot sling i have attached to the bachmann’s carabiner. But yeah, other than for this specific use, ive never used it for much else. Still though, i feel like it performs this specific role better than other friction hitch, so i keep the knot in my repertoire.
To us old time Knot tiers this pronunciation of this great old knot makes the hair on my neck stand up ! I'm in my middle seventies and have tied knots millions of times on the farm and working ! He should at least learn their proper names !
@@davidelo5843 Tying a knot countless times doesn't necessarily mean that you know how to pronounce it. The prusik knot was named after an Austrian mountaineer, hence why the correct way would be to pronounce the name in Karl Prusik's native tongue, which is actually done correctly in this video. :)
This is very misleading, it's a pity that "dislikes" are not shown in TH-cam anymore. I'd never use this knot on a wet or icy climbing rope since the friction is greatly reduced by the slick surface of the carabiner. It's however a good knot for an ad-hoc ascender under normal conditions.
I used this when ascending single rope but never in wet / icy conditions I used this over a standard prusik as it is easier to loosen then move up the main line after you have put wieght onto the know , I think with wet conditions I'd rather use an acenssion device though the, even though I never experienced any issues using this knot I feel like using it in wet / icy conditions would be a bit risky mind you I climb in Australia so we don't often have wet / icy conditions anyway ;)
Oh holly shit hell no never use the carabiner as a hand hold that's how you loosen the knot to move it up again after applying force what the hell man ...
If you used two Bachmans loaded down to 2 foot loops and relieved the pressure alternately; couldn’t you ascend and descend with this knot, or not? : )
Don’t fully rely on it. When belaying we typically use an asymmetric carabiner. In these cases you do need to screw up as that is how it was designed. However when you are using a symmetric carabiner such as the D carabiners shown you can screw down so you don’t screw up.
What? Fifty years ago we used a non-carabiner version of this knot on a long loop to a waistline, the intention being a lessening of the shock loading in a fall. Glad we never put it to the test. Never heard of the knot since, and I really hope this video is ignored.
Great lesson, not necessarily great for icy rope but otherwise a situational, useful knot that im glad to have in my toolbox, but I really cant handle the way that you say prusik
It s best practice to leave the tails behind any knot, in this case your double fishermans, at least 10 times the diameter of the rope... if you make instructional videos, please follow those very basic rules!
You can BUT read militiaus.com response above (The cord needs to be half of size of the mainline (10mm rope = 5mm cord for bachmann). Also keep in mind the size of the carabiner you're using, the bigger the carabiner the less friction the knot will have. Secondly do NOT use this as the only safety for your self-belay. You need a secondary, I would aim for mechanical. I am also looking to build this self-belay system so here is my setup for self-belay (it seems safe, haven't tested yet): Bachmann knot tied into waist harness. Create makeshift chest harness using 1 inch webbing, attach chest harness to Grivel Ascender Descender II (this will allow you to ascend but also has the added benefit of having a rappel feature after attaching a simple carabiner). I would also recommend carrying extra cord on you, and a simple rappel device just in case of Ascender failure. Good luck and be safe!!
Bachmann is a really poor knot for almost any application. Has a tendency to slip. There are better knots out there, ones you can actually trust. I'd only use Bachmann if I had no other option, like maybe my hand was injured and couldn't use more trustworthy knots.
I wish you could do a video for all knots! This was very well described and maybe concentrate on all the other interesting knots. Well done! I know nothing about climbing ropes but thought of an idea! Thank you.
This is the worst friction hitch to use on an icy or wet rope, it can slip and not lock up again. Also if you were to use that prussik cord with that rope there would not be enough friction as the diameter is too big (there is also not enough tail and the cord is probably not rated for enough). Don't do this at home.
You can also use two of these (if you make the loops long enough) to put your feet into and climb the rope with your legs ;-)) You can use a third one to hook to your harness.
hi , I wonder if this is indeed a” knot”. It seams to be more of a coil or lashing. I suppose the efficacy of it would depend on how aggressive the back of the carabiner is. Essentially it is adding a brake shoe to a constricting barrel.
You're very thorough! Can you do a video on diameter of prusik loop to climbing rope? Abseling instructor told me years ago ; 1/2 inch rope with 9 mm? A tutorial would be Awesome! I enrolled in climbing courses ! All accredited but 5 courses. If I practice every rope teqniques and knot tying? I'll be more efficient! Cheers from Australia. Btw American people are quick to reply.
if you were mid rope and wanted to place a Bachmann Knot on the rope as you were hanging by a normal prusik... is there a way to make doing that easier?
Have you used the Bachman as an auto block? In my brain, this seems to be superior to using a prussic as a rappel auto block. On the lead hand you have a nice handle, if you are using a rescue 8 like I have and want to lock off it seems like it will work nice as you pass the rope behind your back to lock off your figure 8 with a wrap around.
I'm going to answer my own question. The Bachmann is the superior rappel brake, but only if done right, if done wrong it will fail completely. It is superior to the autoblock and kliemheist due to its easy of manipulation, but Its tendency to fail if used wrong is its weakness. A study by Standford done on the Bachmann show it is only reliable when the accessory cord is half or less the diameter of the rappelling rope. Here is the study web.stanford.edu/group/alpineclub/info/frictionknots.htm You will see at the summary of this study, when the Bachmann cord exceeded half the climbing rope it would fail to arrest.
I totally disagree, the Bachman is not the superior autoblock in that it is NOT an autoblock knot.an Autoblock knot functions in BOTH directions. The Bachman only "has friction lock in one direction. Your Autoblock knots are gonna be knots that have connection points from center of knot or the ends of the tails leave the knot on opposite sides. I,E prussik, taunt line, etc..
You defined the Prusic as the double knotted rope. That loop of rope is NOT a Prusic until it is used as one...The Prusic is strictly how this looped double knotted rope is applied to the climbing rope. It's nice to have an alternative to having no ascender but the rule in climbing is redundancy and as such one should have not one or two ascenders but back ups to back ups and at the very least two ascenders tied to the harness or on the chest, ready to use !! Lastly what tightens the Bachmann knot isn't the "harness" but the weight of the climber. It's all about weight and gravity. Ascenders are shaped to grab a rope securely and many are quite small and very sturdy...You only need one...I've also done a lot of ice climbing. Using dry ropes is primordial, they should never be "icy" or iced up. I did like your idea of screwing down the locking carabiner as opposed to "screwing up".
It wasn't clear what the binding case was. I'm a fan of this class of knot, the taut-line hitch, the rolling hitch, and of course the prusik. Normally, the binding occurs when the standing part binds back against the wraps. That wasn't demonstrated here. This looks like a great knot. But, please look elsewhere for safe application thereof. ~~ And, as always, please don't splat.
The pronunciation seems to vary regionally. Altho yours makes way more sense historically, if enough people mispronounce a word, they aren't mispronouncing it anymore, lol.
@@fallingsounds3455 You are correct in that it's a person's last name, but it's still not PRUHsick. The prusik knot was named after an Austrian mountaineer, hence why the correct way would be to pronounce the name in Karl Prusik's native tongue, which is actually done correctly in this video. I wouldn't mind anyone pronouncing it in their own languague tho. :)
I like the video, withstanding the comments below on pronunciation. However as I remember, there should be a greatly discernible difference in diameters between the rope being climbed or descended and the cord being used as the friction, prusik, loop. 5, 6 or 7 mm loop on an 11 mm climbing rope, for example. Not an 11 mm loop on an 11 mm climbing rope. I'm not sure that has the same equivalency for a Bachman hitch. I suggest that for safety one should follow the same rules for a prusik. Cheers.
One key point that is missing: many people don't like this knot, I can tell you why. Contrary to most frictions hitches they are used to, the number of coils is not really up to you. With a autoblock you kinda find a number you're confortable with, you test it, it grabs, ok. This knot is trickier. The number of coils depends on the size of the carabiner more than the relative diameter of the ropes. They have to cover the spine of the carabiner fully. One coil less, and the knot starts slipping way too easily. One too many, and it binds too much. The reason many people don't like it is that they treat is as the other friction hitches. It should be mentioned that grabbing the carabiner makes the know slip, in both directions. To those who say this know it useless to climbers: this knot was invented by a climber. It belongs to a family of knots this climber invented around 1950. They have been published in climbing magazines, and they are still part of training courses for alpine guides (probably in historical sections). Have they been superseded by modern equipment? Yes most definitely. They belong to a different era, with different materials. A modern prusik loop is very different from what they used back then. It's designed with specific knots/hitches in mind, and works well in those applications. Still all Backmann's knots are interesting to study. Of course, you should never climb with knots you don't know / you're not comfortable with. Experimentation should be confined to safe environments.
I just got to say, I am a home remodeler and I do some roof repair. I was in a situation where I needed a knot to tie in my carabiner so that I could go up and down the roof and pressure wash. This bachman knot worked amazingly just to keep me safe and Save a ton of time. So I want to say thank you for posting it and in the right condition this is a great alternative.
Jrad Jordanian do yourself a favor and spend 30 on a ATC and a Prusik loop at minimum before you fall. Using this knot as a lifeline is a horrible idea and should never be done.
So are you saying it was good for rappelling down? Easy to slide down when its under load?
There are a lot of us who are new to saddle hunting. I believe many would do well to watch your videos and create your own back up safety knots in case you have a mechanical failure. I know I will. Thanks for clear demonstrations.
I've learned from other videos so far that the kleimhiest friction hitch is better for rappelling out of a tree because it's easier to slide under load. And the hedden friction hitch is the best back up because it takes more load than any other. But the good ole prusik is never a bad choice.
Over 10years ago I was told do a reef knot when doing prusik loop. Now I learnt the double fisherman's loop. Thanks for the tutorial! Hi from Australia!🙂👍👍👍
Never use a reef knot for applications that do not have constant tension. The reef knot will come undone (unless you back it up with more knots).
As far as I understand it, the reef knot has no use in climbing applications apart from tying your shoe laces and securing a butterfly coil backpack around your waist.
Locked the binder as an afterthought...?
So I never say this Bachmann before but the fact that it just kind of ends at the bottom of the carabiner is unsettling.
Okay good to know
This seems slightly misleading. On a wet or icy lines, all friction based ascenders like this are likely to fail catastrophically. Only cam based, toothed ascenders should be used on icy or wet lines. This may be easier to grip with gloves, but that doesn't make it appropriate for those conditions
Even if it slipped, how fast would it slide down? Wouldn't it be a relatively slow descent?
This. Respectfully, I think that the responsible thing for this uploader to do is to take this video down. Friction hitches and ascender/descender systems carry a huge level of risk, and if you wanna be someone who talks about them, you need to be someone who actually knows what you're talking about, and pays attention. There's other misinformation in this vid as well.
I can’t speak for ice, but I have used this method in training exercises and on law enforcement/rescue ops. It’s not the best option out there, but it does work in a pinch. Has yet to ever fail. Tied and true in both wet and dry environments.
Nope, if it failed it would soon run at full speed. A bachmann offers less friction than a standard prussik because the carabiner touching the rope does not add additional friction.
This is not the only very VERY dangerous video from the same guy. He has learned some knots and talks about them as if he knows them and their weaknesses. He does not.
@ 4:30 never grip carabiner for ascending, all the friction comes from downward pressure on loose end. If you grab that carabiner for a handhold, you will meet the ground very fast. Only for sliding up.
I can attest to meeting the ground at speed :(
Thanks men, this knot is totally useless ... for a climber
Makes good sense this one
first and foremost..any double finshermans you need more tail. second, for icy/wet conditions; use an ascender. stay safe and gain knowledge from professionals and not the internet
Joe Jermain oof😂😂😂
Literally said the billions of people that learn how to do basic stuff on YT
@@bigmanlilcoat in the comment section 3 years back. Nice. You working on your overhand?
@@joejermain9641 yet we find ourselves exchanging conversation today.
Lol you’re so right. Plus he’s using rope for his “chord” there’s no way that actually grips
Bachman (or it's cousin the Klemhist hitch) on an icy rope is pretty sketchy. The only advantage the Bachman or Klemhist has over Prussiik is they can be tied with webbing and still work on dry ropes. Still a great hitch to know, just make sure you know it's limitations and wet icy ropes are one of them.
You should say why you think it's sketchy. I've used the Klemhist a lot
I've been using prusiks. They tend to bind up after being under load. This one looks easier to move up the rope after loading. I'm going to give it a try. (yes, I will back it up with another system)
Totally incorrect information. Is NOT a good tool for icy ropes. And pulling down on the carabiner would result in you falling. Pull this video, it’s dangerous.
Every video ive seen from this guy has the same comment section. Actual climbers calling out his lack of information.
I don't climb and i can tell hes a phony, by his lack of confidence and his terminology.
Just to preface I am not a qualified climber, or even a hobby climber, so this guy likely has more experience than me, however that being said even to the untrained eye it is obvious this ascending knot requires friction to function.
I highly doubt this guy is qualified to teach this knot, and him coming onto to youtube and posting this as if he knows what hes talking about is downright reckless and could end with someone losing their life or being seriously injured.
This guy seems like a weekend warrior, I find it difficult to speculate this guy has military training. He has also posted a video on how to use a riggers belt to emergency descend, in which he made numerous fatal mistakes.
This knot may work but the problem is this guy is trying to teach these knots as if he has some type of formal training. And people who are none the wiser will see this video and trust their lives on this knot.
It shows a lack or self awareness, a lack of respect for others and just general impotence.
I will watch videos from ACTUAL Green Beret's and SF trained guys if you know military you know this guy is a try-hard fraud.
I Don't like being overly critical but this guy keeps posting videos as if he is somehow qualified in the things he speaks on and from this video alone that is obviously not the case.
This video could be fatal or result in serious injury, it should be removed along with his other climbing videos for their outright callous disregard for human life.
Why do you say that? It does work. I think you have no clue whatsoever. That's not the main knot, it's an accessory knot in case you slip.
Works fine although the user always has the responsibility to use the ‘friction hitch’ properly and approximately. I think Jen Yates is overstating her point. It’s not dangerous properly used.
Its a safety you goofball
isnt blakes hitch much better?
I keep trying to practice this on a practice carabiner and there is no gripping whatsoever. It just slides up and down like nothing.
Does it have to be wet and icy....
David Hutchison that's because this guy doesn't know what he's talking about. As others have mentioned, this should not be used for ascending any rope, wet or dry.
You can use this for acenssion I just wouldn't use it on a wet rope I have used it on drdry ropes most my life climbing over 10 yrs and never had an issue by I use it with a foot sling attached to the end of the rope hanging off the carabiner and only use the carabiner to slack off the rope after I have pulled up any extra rope gained through my croll device , this bloke demonstrating just has no idea of how to use I tt correctly :/
Ive used it too, in the exact way you described. Having a toothed chest ascender like a croll is key. Even if the bachmann slips a little, the load will just transfer to the chest ascender.
On a dry rope the knot isn’t going to slip much, if at all...especially if, like you mentioned, you pull the slack out of the bachmann wraps before applying a load to the knot (like stepping in a foot loop).
In a pinch, it can do the job of hand ascender/foot loop, no problem...as long as you know how to use it. But like you said, it doesn’t seem like the guy in the vid actually knows. He didn’t even mention the most important part. If you’re using a rope instead of a sling, the rope needs to be a smaller diameter than your main rope...otherwise it’s going to have trouble gripping.
Friction hitches have been around a lot longer than ascending devices. They may not be as convenient, but they work.
I wouldn’t want to try an icy rope without something with teeth though, thats for sure.
Are you using two ropes of the same diameter? That won’t work. The bachmann’s rope has to be a smaller diameter than your main rope, or it won’t be able to curve enough to grip your main rope. Another option is to make your wraps with a loop sling instead of a prusik loop.
This is probably the most important thing to know about the bachmann knot. Wasn’t mentioned in the video🤔
nice tip.
I'm not nitpicking, but u mean bidirectional for up & down, not omnidirectional, right?
Thanks for all tour vids.........Mahalo from Hawai🌴
Super knot. Thank you
Man, you nailed that vid!!! Great job!!
I like your video ❤❤❤❤❤❤
Randy Bachmans music brought me here, the guys so talented.
Chowder Stevens alborzrappel.com/khadmat-ma/103-پیچ-و-رولپلاک-سنگ,نماشویی,ابندی,خدمات-نما,در-کرج-و-تهران
Is he that guy from BTU? I love those guys.
I have found very little use for this knot. The friction that comes from this knot is very low compared to the other options.
bazawhacha
it works well as a substitute for a hand ascender...better than a prusik or klemheist. Its much easier to release the tension on the rope by sliding the carabiner up the rope.
To get maximum friction, i hold the carabiner in one hand, then pull down on the loop with the other hand, getting all the wraps tight before putting my weight into a foot sling i have attached to the bachmann’s carabiner.
But yeah, other than for this specific use, ive never used it for much else. Still though, i feel like it performs this specific role better than other friction hitch, so i keep the knot in my repertoire.
Can’t cope with him saying Pru-suck 🤦🏻♂️😂
To us old time Knot tiers this pronunciation of this great old knot makes the hair on my neck stand up ! I'm in my middle seventies and have tied knots millions of times on the farm and working ! He should at least learn their proper names !
@@davidelo5843 Tying a knot countless times doesn't necessarily mean that you know how to pronounce it. The prusik knot was named after an Austrian mountaineer, hence why the correct way would be to pronounce the name in Karl Prusik's native tongue, which is actually done correctly in this video. :)
The tails on your double fisherman are not long enough.
It's not a knot. It's a hitch. Please revise. There is a difference between a knot and a hitch. Don't let the Internet call it a knot.
Keep fighting the good fight my friend.
Great teaching of the Bachmann.
Thank you... You make it easy...
Excellent and I have an arborist. Thanks for a new way to type Prussic
Great knot! I can see that being useful for all sorts of things besides climbing.
Which carabiners are you using?
This is very misleading, it's a pity that "dislikes" are not shown in TH-cam anymore. I'd never use this knot on a wet or icy climbing rope since the friction is greatly reduced by the slick surface of the carabiner. It's however a good knot for an ad-hoc ascender under normal conditions.
dislikes are shown if you have the browser add on
I agree. Maybe if I really had to, but I would only do this in emergencies
Dude, you are awesome. Thank you for a great video series.
Thank you 🤝
I used this when ascending single rope but never in wet / icy conditions I used this over a standard prusik as it is easier to loosen then move up the main line after you have put wieght onto the know , I think with wet conditions I'd rather use an acenssion device though the, even though I never experienced any issues using this knot I feel like using it in wet / icy conditions would be a bit risky mind you I climb in Australia so we don't often have wet / icy conditions anyway ;)
Oh and I always used a trippple fisherman's knot too ;)
Oh holly shit hell no never use the carabiner as a hand hold that's how you loosen the knot to move it up again after applying force what the hell man ...
If you used two Bachmans loaded down to 2 foot loops and relieved the pressure alternately; couldn’t you ascend and descend with this knot, or not? : )
EXCELLENT VIDEO
Screw Down, so you don't screw up. Will be using that saying for future. Awesome videos, simple clear and very intuitive. Keep them flowing.
Don’t fully rely on it. When belaying we typically use an asymmetric carabiner. In these cases you do need to screw up as that is how it was designed. However when you are using a symmetric carabiner such as the D carabiners shown you can screw down so you don’t screw up.
I disagree. This knot is too risky. Friction is a concern.
Thanks. I would like to see some more tail on that double fisherman just for good measure.
What? Fifty years ago we used a non-carabiner version of this knot on a long loop to a waistline, the intention being a lessening of the shock loading in a fall. Glad we never put it to the test. Never heard of the knot since, and I really hope this video is ignored.
How long is the green rope before you tied it?
Thanks Dude! We owe you a beer!!!
Will this work on a doubled line e.g. footlocking in arborist work?
Cool. Well shown. I enjoyed learning about that.
Great lesson, not necessarily great for icy rope but otherwise a situational, useful knot that im glad to have in my toolbox, but I really cant handle the way that you say prusik
It s best practice to leave the tails behind any knot, in this case your double fishermans, at least 10 times the diameter of the rope... if you make instructional videos, please follow those very basic rules!
😂😂😂😂😂😂 should teach grade school
I feel like the tails on the prusik loop's barrel knots are too short, or is that fear misplaced?
Yes very helpful thank you
This is knot the video I was looking for..
The search continues.
Can you use this knot as a self belay device for solo top roping ?
You can BUT read militiaus.com response above (The cord needs to be half of size of the mainline (10mm rope = 5mm cord for bachmann). Also keep in mind the size of the carabiner you're using, the bigger the carabiner the less friction the knot will have.
Secondly do NOT use this as the only safety for your self-belay. You need a secondary, I would aim for mechanical.
I am also looking to build this self-belay system so here is my setup for self-belay (it seems safe, haven't tested yet): Bachmann knot tied into waist harness. Create makeshift chest harness using 1 inch webbing, attach chest harness to Grivel Ascender Descender II (this will allow you to ascend but also has the added benefit of having a rappel feature after attaching a simple carabiner). I would also recommend carrying extra cord on you, and a simple rappel device just in case of Ascender failure. Good luck and be safe!!
What an amazing response! Thank you ever so much. I'll surely put in mind your wise words.
Climb safe!
Bachmann is a really poor knot for almost any application. Has a tendency to slip. There are better knots out there, ones you can actually trust. I'd only use Bachmann if I had no other option, like maybe my hand was injured and couldn't use more trustworthy knots.
what is the diameter of the prusik cord
4-7mm, the larger the cord, the less friction it's going to provide.
I wish you could do a video for all knots! This was very well described and maybe concentrate on all the other interesting knots. Well done! I know nothing about climbing ropes but thought of an idea! Thank you.
An alternative to prusik? Seriously? Would you play with you life for climbing with this knot?
Every time you climb you are literally putting your life on the line.
なんて手際のいい！沢登りで活用します
Can this knot.be set up for toprope solo?
It's not a hitch that I would use for a solo fall arrest as it can loosen too easily as you move around.
nice tshirt change in the middle .....
This is the worst friction hitch to use on an icy or wet rope, it can slip and not lock up again. Also if you were to use that prussik cord with that rope there would not be enough friction as the diameter is too big (there is also not enough tail and the cord is probably not rated for enough). Don't do this at home.
Parabens bem simples e muito util para o dia a dia um ABRAÇO.
Dangerously short tails on your double fisherman's. YGD.
ola ... É muito bom o video...mas podiam começar a por com tradução em português ou pelo menos ter opção...
Can you use it on two ropes?
Daniel Bruce no
NICE" IT'S MAKES THE BINER A MAKE SHIFT ACENDER.😎
You can also use two of these (if you make the loops long enough) to put your feet into and climb the rope with your legs ;-)) You can use a third one to hook to your harness.
I was just thinking that. It would be like an ascender for an emergency.
Or just use one for your leg and one attached to your harness like a texas kick
besteversaw is
yea why 3?
hi , I wonder if this is indeed a” knot”. It seams to be more of a coil or lashing. I suppose the efficacy of it would depend on how aggressive the back of the carabiner is. Essentially it is adding a brake shoe to a constricting barrel.
It's a hitch
@@climbing200 I am not sure that ,tecnically ,it is a hitch. It is mostly doubled round turns making a lashing. imho
Could you not just incorporate a prusik around the main line and the carabiner?
1cleandude Absolutely not! If you need to try this combo to be convinced, try it in a safe situation. You'll find that it doesn't work well tho.
Since the poster doesn't seem to have a disclaimer, I wonder if he can be sued for the wrong information?
You're very thorough! Can you do a video on diameter of prusik loop to climbing rope? Abseling instructor told me years ago ; 1/2 inch rope with 9 mm? A tutorial would be Awesome! I enrolled in climbing courses ! All accredited but 5 courses. If I practice every rope teqniques and knot tying? I'll be more efficient! Cheers from Australia. Btw American people are quick to reply.
Hola, buenos días. Que largo es la cuerda. Y que diámetro. Gracias
Nice to know but I will stick to the traditional hitches. Thanks for the video.
Mean words are banned but dangerous advice is ok....riiiiiight....
Gravity is not a force, like time & space they are merely concepts.
Falling will kill you either way.
why not use a blakeshitch it can go up and down
if you were mid rope and wanted to place a Bachmann Knot on the rope as you were hanging by a normal prusik... is there a way to make doing that easier?
Have you used the Bachman as an auto block? In my brain, this seems to be superior to using a prussic as a rappel auto block. On the lead hand you have a nice handle, if you are using a rescue 8 like I have and want to lock off it seems like it will work nice as you pass the rope behind your back to lock off your figure 8 with a wrap around.
I'm going to answer my own question. The Bachmann is the superior rappel brake, but only if done right, if done wrong it will fail completely. It is superior to the autoblock and kliemheist due to its easy of manipulation, but Its tendency to fail if used wrong is its weakness. A study by Standford done on the Bachmann show it is only reliable when the accessory cord is half or less the diameter of the rappelling rope. Here is the study web.stanford.edu/group/alpineclub/info/frictionknots.htm You will see at the summary of this study, when the Bachmann cord exceeded half the climbing rope it would fail to arrest.
I totally disagree, the Bachman is not the superior autoblock in that it is NOT an autoblock knot.an Autoblock knot functions in BOTH directions. The Bachman only "has friction lock in one direction. Your Autoblock knots are gonna be knots that have connection points from center of knot or the ends of the tails leave the knot on opposite sides. I,E prussik, taunt line, etc..
You defined the Prusic as the double knotted rope. That loop of rope is NOT a Prusic until it is used as one...The Prusic is strictly how this looped double knotted rope is applied to the climbing rope. It's nice to have an alternative to having no ascender but the rule in climbing is redundancy and as such one should have not one or two ascenders but back ups to back ups and at the very least two ascenders tied to the harness or on the chest, ready to use !!
Lastly what tightens the Bachmann knot isn't the "harness" but the weight of the climber. It's all about weight and gravity.
Ascenders are shaped to grab a rope securely and many are quite small and very sturdy...You only need one...I've also done a lot of ice climbing. Using dry ropes is primordial, they should never be "icy" or iced up.
I did like your idea of screwing down the locking carabiner as opposed to "screwing up".
It took lees than 50 seconds to very clearly demonstrate tying the knot. I can't even guess what the other 4 and a half minutes was for.
It wasn't clear what the binding case was. I'm a fan of this class of knot, the taut-line hitch, the rolling hitch, and of course the prusik. Normally, the binding occurs when the standing part binds back against the wraps. That wasn't demonstrated here. This looks like a great knot. But, please look elsewhere for safe application thereof. ~~ And, as always, please don't splat.
Good skill we are k2 climber manager here
Start at 2:46
I find this interesting, so this knot is easier to "loosen" compared to a prussik thats tied directly onto the rope?
Pr-US-sik. Us, as in all of us.
The pronunciation seems to vary regionally. Altho yours makes way more sense historically, if enough people mispronounce a word, they aren't mispronouncing it anymore, lol.
PRUH-sick.... “prew” just sounds psychotic.
Negative sir. Pru sick
@@keithklassen5320 It's a person's last name, not a word. So no, it's not PREWsik, it is PRUHsick. Boop! www.lexico.com/en/definition/prusik
@@fallingsounds3455 You are correct in that it's a person's last name, but it's still not PRUHsick. The prusik knot was named after an Austrian mountaineer, hence why the correct way would be to pronounce the name in Karl Prusik's native tongue, which is actually done correctly in this video. I wouldn't mind anyone pronouncing it in their own languague tho. :)
Prooosik?
I believe the same could have been explained in 2 minutes.
I like the video, withstanding the comments below on pronunciation. However as I remember, there should be a greatly discernible difference in diameters between the rope being climbed or descended and the cord being used as the friction, prusik, loop. 5, 6 or 7 mm loop on an 11 mm climbing rope, for example. Not an 11 mm loop on an 11 mm climbing rope. I'm not sure that has the same equivalency for a Bachman hitch. I suggest that for safety one should follow the same rules for a prusik. Cheers.
That’s knot funny
Starts at 2:48
What type of rope did you use for this video
That's aWesome dude... Thanks
I believe you have shown other prusic alternatives in the past. Can you group them together for easy reference?
readyme
They’re already grouped, they’re called friction hitches.
Sapper Says follow up with infield Demo.
Thanks
A lot of expert safety cliff hangers making comments yet none post videos.
This proves that Americans can, in fact, pronounce Prusik correctly! YES!
Content starts @2:55
Hi! Please, could you tell me which carabiner and line size do you use? Thanks!
One key point that is missing: many people don't like this knot, I can tell you why. Contrary to most frictions hitches they are used to, the number of coils is not really up to you. With a autoblock you kinda find a number you're confortable with, you test it, it grabs, ok.
This knot is trickier. The number of coils depends on the size of the carabiner more than the relative diameter of the ropes. They have to cover the spine of the carabiner fully. One coil less, and the knot starts slipping way too easily. One too many, and it binds too much. The reason many people don't like it is that they treat is as the other friction hitches.
It should be mentioned that grabbing the carabiner makes the know slip, in both directions.
To those who say this know it useless to climbers: this knot was invented by a climber. It belongs to a family of knots this climber invented around 1950. They have been published in climbing magazines, and they are still part of training courses for alpine guides (probably in historical sections).
Have they been superseded by modern equipment? Yes most definitely. They belong to a different era, with different materials. A modern prusik loop is very different from what they used back then. It's designed with specific knots/hitches in mind, and works well in those applications.
Still all Backmann's knots are interesting to study. Of course, you should never climb with knots you don't know / you're not comfortable with. Experimentation should be confined to safe environments.
Defo gonna call it a pru-sik from now on 🤣
can you use it as back up?
NOYPI RIDER No! Better alternatives are Prusik, Klemheist and Autoblock in descending order of preferance
It's weird / incorrect that you refer to your double fisherman's as a barrel knot.
and unfortunately there's so much more weirdness & incorrectness in this video.
Não consigo entender nada do que você fala mas consegui aprender com você
Just do it, it's take a long time!
Cheers Mate!