i have an old VFD. and an old cnc router. ive had problems for years since it came in "plug and play" watching this i am now going to go back and re do everything! thank you sir!!
While watching this video, I noticed that you have the main power leads connected to the bottom terminals on the fuse block. I realize this is a convenient point to connect them in your application, but it is not the correct place to connect the hot leads to! In case you forget to pull the power plug before opening the fuse holders, you still have power coming through the fuses which makes it dangerous if you touch the fuses. The hot leads are supposed to be connected to the top terminals on the fuse holder. This way the fuses are completely disconnected from power the moment the fuse holders are opened up! On the same note, the incoming power to a contactor, like the one you are using, is supposed to be connected to the top terminals! That is a standard in the electrical panel construction industry! Hope this info helps on further projects.
If you find a Craftsman hand tool (ie screw drivers, wrenches) and it has a WF on it. That was manufactured by a company called Western Forge. They are an American company. It is a subsidiary of a company my dad used to work for. Or at least it was before he retired. WF make excellent quality tools in my opinion. Just a little FYI
Interesting. I have some that are maybe 2-3years old that are just garbage. Almost every single flat blade driver has broken. Sadly, they do in fact have the WF. I got some Wiha extra heavy duty screwdrivers really cheap and they have been MUCH better tools.
Awesome video. Alex is supposed to ship my S30 spindle any day and I had no clue how to hook up the VFD. I stand a much better chance of keeping the magic smoke contained after watching this. Thank You!
I think different people learn differently. I find that I go back and forth. I read enough to have a pretty good idea how to take some first steps. Then I take those steps, get stuck and go back to the manual with a better idea what I need to know. And so on. In this case, overheating the motor freaked me out, so I took the time to read everything before going any further.
@Clough42, I have a S30C on order from CNC Depot and this video was VERY illuminating. Thanks for sharing the knowledge. Also, I appreciate that you put all the affiliate links in the description, but could you also put links for the other items -- like the box, the fuses, the contractors, etc. That would be a huge help too, thank you!
I was under the impression that the compressed air regulator is usually installed upstream of the filtration system. Dropping the pressure will normally cool the air and tend to produce moisture. Very neat motor and set up. Nice.
I was thinking the same thing. It’s interesting to see that most manufacturer’s sell these things with the regulator downstream from the filters/driers (just like what you have).
Wow! That spindle is super quiet compared to the air cooled 2.2kw I have. I did see these spindles on cncdepot and like the ceramic bearing one. Not cheap!
Awesome job as always. I recently switched from MACH3 to LinuxCNC and what a great difference. Much faster, reacts faster and the steppers runs much smoother. And that with the standard LPT port. Maybe something to consider.
For LPT port control, I totally believe that. I'm using an FPGA-based motion controller (ESS SmoothStepper) so that isn't really a concern. I fiddled with LinuxCNC when I first started out (on the LPT) and couldn't get it to work on the Eden VIA motherboard I'm using.
The VFD I got (mistakenly for my mill) has lots of parameters as well, but thankfully I don't need most of them. I can see why you chose the settings you did though, considering the purpose behind yours. Was cool to see the control box come together too, looked pro.
Hi James, love the channel, great content. Sorry if this has already been covered, I haven't gone through all of the comments. I don't know what it should be but when you stated at 4:43 you were using 90psi for the purge air pressure my spidey senses started tingling. I can't remember what I have seen other spindles set to but 90psi seems unnecessarily high to me, possibly even damaging. I would love to hear from others what their thoughts are on what a typical pressure setting should be set to for the purge air pressure. Keep up the great videos, they are awesome to watch!
One point that you might have done off camera and didn't mention. When plumbing new pneumatic parts, you might want to purge everything before connecting the last line to the spindle. When hooking up new machines I see things like paint flakes and the other odd debris come out of new equipment. Especially since it looked like your filter/reg unit did not come with seal plugs.
Clough42 this is the most comprehensive video on how to hook up a ATC Spindle and VFD that I have found. Thank you! thank you! thank you! Even though my spindle is not exactly like yours, the general wiring instructions you gave are very clear and concise. The VFD settings are not like the Huanyang VFD but they are close. The safety considerations are really good. Thank you for that 400 Hz tip. And the temperature connection is definitely a must. I noticed that you have several angles on your video. Are you videotaping at the same time on all three cameras? Thanks again.
James isn't kidding about the number of parameters on the Hitachi WJ200 VFD - 200 pages!!! I have one and it took a while to set everything up but it works great.
Thanks again for the excellent video! I just got an ebay score WJ200 up and running tonight. B037 being set to 04 threw me for a loop for a bit though.
I like the perforated steel back plates. It saves having to drill mounting holes for the components. Not a big fan of wire duct. I prefer lacing cord and plastic mounting straps.
I did my mill enclosure with low-profile 3D-printed plastic rails and zip ties to hold the wires down. The big win with the cable duct is that it's easy to add stuff progressively or make changes in the future. The downside is that it takes up space and blocks airflow.
@@minskmade There are (at least) two ways to control the VFD remotely: One way is to use switch closures to control on-off type things like "on" and "direction", and to use an analog voltage (like 0-10 volts) to control the speed. This takes a lot of individual wires, because you pretty much need a separate wire for each function you need to control. The other way is to use "serial communications". This is like a primitive version of the Internet* where you just need a single pair of wires, and you can send commands to the VFD as a series of bytes, and get responses back from the VFD as a series of bytes. This only takes two (or maybe 4) wires on a single connector, and for most things works at least as well as the many wires that you would use for discrete functions. I don't know if any of that explanation helped, or if it was just more gobbledygook. :-) (* I'm simplifying here, just a bit.)
I see l wilton already responded to you. RS485 is a communication standard for devices to talk to each other. Think of it like a USB connection that allows commands to be sent to the VFD and status information to be read back to the computer. It uses only two wires, and unlike USB, it is designed to operate in hostile, electrically noisy industrial environments.
do you have a link to that manual. I am having a hard time to find it. I have the same spindle and vfd as you but the book i have is very small and hard to read
Thanks for doing this! I’m working on my own G0704 conversion with DMM servos and an Acorn Board. I was wondering why the use of fuses is preferable to using a circuit breaker ? Do those fuse blocks have replaceable fuses - or you need to replace the whole block if one blows? I’m thinking this will be my spindle set up eventually.... super! Thanks again.
They're fuse holders that hold replaceable 10x38mm ceramic fuses. Many VFD manuals call for both a Molded Case Circuit Breaker (MCCB) and a fuse. I've heard it suggested that this is because the UL testing was done with fuses on a circuit with a breaker, so something something certification. I'm not sure if that's legit. The Hitachi WJ200 manual calls for a breaker, GFI, or fused disconnect. Some VFD manuals specify "semiconductor" fuses, which are extra-fast, presumably to protect the semiconductors in the drive. In this case, I'm using normal fast-acting ceramic fuses.
@@Clough42 I noticed that, like most CE products, the fuse holders are not UL listed. Not unusual since almost all Chinese electric products are not UL listed and therefore illegal to install by US code regulations. This is a problem I have personally encountered as I am rewiring my 1909 Craftsman home into a modern smart house. Finding UL listed (affordable) devices and components is quite difficult and most of the stuff sold on eBay and Amazon is not listed so while it might be perfectly adequate, electronically speaking, it is, in fact, illegal to use. As an example, the Arduino is not UL listed as is the Raspberry Pi and as such is not useable in a code approved installation.
Only thing I did not like is that you did not put a shrink wrap of a different color on the white white, even take a red maker and color it, so there is no question it is not a neutral wire! I really like the rest of your build!
Hello. For very first run of your fine filtering pneumatic system it is good practice to blowing it without spindle connected, you know why. Nice video. Thanks
I found the previous series on the Lathe motor retrofit worth it for me. I’m expecting this one will also be worth it. I’m really interested in seeing how you deal with the air solenoids, fed from VFD switching. Seems like this is simpler and more reliable than what I was thinking - that was having additional ATC and Spindle Cooling relays, driven programmatically through MACH 3/4. Can’t wait till I see how you do this.
I'll be covering that shortly. I have some additional concerns, since I'm shooting video and want to be as efficient as possible with air consumption, so I don't have compressor noise in the background all the time. I think I have a good solution for this, and you'll see it soon.
Do you happen to have the info for the line filter you used on the 240V from the wall? I will be putting one of these VFDs on a lathe in the next couple months and adding one of those is on my list. Since you seem to have pretty solid results it would save me some shopping around. Also...is the cable from the OPE-SRmini just a straight pass through? I could not find much information about that cable pinout online and Hitachi have not been very helpful. I already have a bunch of cat5e cable around and rj45 connectors so $15 for that cable seems pretty steep!
Hi James, thank you for this video. It was helpful since I have the same spindle just the s30c version. I also have the wj200 vfd. I have a question for you. I wanted to hook up the thermal cutout to the vfd just like you did, however you used the logic terminals L and input 3. Since I am using some of the logic inputs for fwd run and analog 0-10 volt spindle speed I had to move the jumper over to the sink option. PLC and L. So, is there still a way to hook up the thermal cutout? What do you suggest? Thank you Bill
Yes. Both filter chambers are also water separators. There's no desiccant dryer, but I live in southern Idaho, where we drain the compressor tank every couple of years, whether it needs it or not. :)
Hi Folks. I'm sure James has the input fusing correct for the USA. It would be wrong over here in the UK as our 230 volt AC is distibuted very differently. Take competent advice for your locality. BobUK.
I'm curious now. What kinds of differences? I've heard Big Clive talk about ring mains and the ground pin interlock on receptacles, but that's all I know. Disclaimer: I am not a licensed electrician. I'm following the recommendations in the VFD manual, and I have done enough research to feel okay about wiring my own tools in my own shop. Sometimes I even turn off the breaker when working on a branch circuit. :)
Thank you for this video. I'm planning to install one of these on my mill later this year; right after I recover from having to purchase and install a new refrigerator that failed the first week of the new year. Thank you for showing how to set up the Hitachi VFD. I have two of these and only set the parameters necessary to get it running. With your tutorial I can now set the other parameters to get the most out of my VFD/motor combination. Have you thought about switching from Mach3/Mach4 to the Acorn board and running Centroid CNC12? I recently made the switch and I'm much happier.
MACH3 is working for me. I have a "new" motherboard already set up with Windows 10 waiting for MACH4, but haven't gotten around to it yet. It's tough to want to jump in and tear up something that's working. Acorn/Centroid looks pretty cool, but also not super cheap if you start adding many options.
There is also BSP, or British Standard Pipe, which is a straight thread that ALMOST matches to NPT. Its generally close enough that you can make it work, but I seem to recall it is something like 1 TPI off from NPT threads.
@@lwilton It's the same TPI, but a different threadform (rounded, not pointy), so if you thread a BSP male into a NPT female it will go, but it will leak like a sieve! Damn Brits :-P
I think a lot of the made in USA hand tools are done by Stanley and some place called western forge, but not all craftsmen hand tools are made in the USA so you kinda gotta eyeball that, if you are ever wondering why 2 almost identical socket sets are 30 bucks apart in price
Yeah, and even the import tools vary in price and quality. Offshore producers are capable of excellent quality, but many companies outsourcing production demand a lower price, and the manufacturer is happy to oblige.
Check the bell icon to see if it is set to "always". TH-cam defaults to "occasional" notifications when you subscribe to a channel. They don't seem to define anywhere what "occasional" really means, but it appears to be mostly useless.
@@Clough42 It is strange since the algorithm, must see that I subbed you. I've search for your videos, and watched a ton recently. :-) Your VFD videos really helped me, thanks.
Actually, what he said is right. I was taught National Pipe Thread which is also correct but not technically what the threads are. Non-parallel threads are important to know as there are parallel threads such as the British parallel thread also used in the US. Technically, the NPT thread, regardless of what you call it is limited in application if you have an application with thermal cycling such as Air Conditioning. Non-parallel threads seat differently at a slight angle and when the connector heats and cools it will loosen itself over time. A parallel threat will not do that and seals face to face and not with compression at the threads.
I am building a CNC system right now and planned on running my motion controls and the 2.2kw spindle on the same 30a 240v line. By looking at this, you (and the VFD pages I am looking at) say that the input current can be more than double the output current. Is that true, or could I run the VFD and the 4 servos all off the same line? That seems highly inefficient to use double the power than it is putting out.
all i know is that the spindle is so quiet i kept hearing the case fan over it. i don't understand something, how do you know the RPM the spindle? i saw the current measure but didn't see a RPM read anywhere. does it hook to the cnc board?
Sorry... The video was getting long, so I didn't show it, but I calculated the speed based on the top frequency of 400Hz, and also measured with a laser tachometer. I'll show it in the next video.
Also you probably have seal rings on the nose. Worked on May spindles. glad you did not go with or look at the spindles made by PDS (precision Drive Systems).
@@Clough42 some do some don't. the one you have looks very nice. The most amazing one I worked on ran 190,000 rpm. Thought it was going to be a screamer for the rpms but it was so quiet. Amazing piece of equipment. Great job on your videos. And thank you.
I think your assumption about Craftsman being just junk now may be incorrect. Not only did you discover the screwdriver but I just took my ratchet into Lowe's to warranty it. I bought the original about 25 years ago and the one they replaced it with is actually better. Not that Craftsman was ever top-of-the-line to begin with but the hand tools I've used are decent, quality tools. The table-top drill press I bought at the same time as the ratchet was pretty crappy but the hand tools are decent.
Very interesting project once again James. Thanks for taking us along for the ride and warning us of the bear traps. I must admit I winced a bit when you forgot the positive pressure purge air, and it made me wonder that if you went to the effort of interlocking the tool release, why you didn't have a pressure switch for the purge air too. That way, the VFD can only operate the spindle under sane and safe conditions. I think you still have sensor inputs spare, or do you plan to do this under Mach 3 control?
That motor is sooo cool, that's it's almost a shame that it's being mounted to a Grizzly. I hope you use the Grizzly to machine new parts to build a better mill. Perhaps with epoxy granite base, sealed linear bearings?
By shutting off the 24v power supply, to turn the control box off & on, you remove the possibility of post-run cooling of the VFD. Do you have a link for the spindle and VFD? I'm sure they above my pay grade but I have been window shopping for a spindle with a tool changer for my CNC project and your spindle looks like the one. Is that a BT30 spindle? You might put in an infrared lamp to keep you warm while standing at your work bench. They work great and you don't have to heat the whole shop.
I'm not shutting down the power when I turn off the spindle--just at the end of a session. The spindle will stop at the end of a cut, and the power will stay on for a while--until I shut down the mill and turn out the lights. It's an ISO30 spindle. It is compatible with BT30 tooling, but has no drive lugs. It's primarily intended for high-speed operation with small tools. The infrared lamp is a good idea. I have a 4KW electric heater in the shop, but I leave it off while filming to get good sound. The infrared lamp would be quiet, but I also work pretty hard to color-match all of the light sources in the shop. I suspect an IR lamp would mess that up. But it would be worth a try.
@@Clough42 I'm sure your fans would be happy with you being slightly off color and warm rather than being color neutral but on the verge of turning blue. Do you have any info for the Mfg of the spindle or is it a pre-production secret, in which case I'll quit asking?
If I'm not mistaken, you can feed the input of a pressure sensor (or more than one) to the VFD to monitor the air pressure going to the spindle, which I would do as a safety measure. If the VFD has enough inputs, you could also do a sensor for coolant flow/pressure /level if you use coolant so that the VFD would be able to shut down the spindle if you lose either vital supplies. Also, do you need a braking resistor?
I have been looking at pressure sensors. Most of the ones I'm seeing are designed for compressor air tanks, so they kick on around 70PSI and off above 125 or so. I suppose that would work, since the regulated supply shouldn't exceed 90PSI. That would be a good addition. I don't know yet if I need a braking resistor. This VFD has provision for it if needed. By default, it's configured to spin down over 10 seconds. Once it's on the mill and I can mount tools properly, I'll work on tuning it for faster stops. It can apply 20% braking force with an internal transistor, and that may be enough.
@@Clough42 Where are you looking for sensors? There are a really wide variety of sensors that will output either 0-5V or 4-20ma (depending on the inputs of the VFD) over a useful range for this application. Alternatively, I think I could help source a simple Hobbs switch that would trip below X PSI to provide a really simple safety.
@@mattemther6060 I hadn't thought if using an analog input on the VFD with a voltage or current transducer. Not sure if it has the flexibility for that. I've been looking in eBay and coming up with lots of compressor tank switches that aren't really suitable.
@@Clough42 the manual should have the specs for any inputs, so knowing that would narrow down your choices. sensing.honeywell.com/honeywell-sensing-switch-5000-series-productsheet.pdf Something like this would fit the bill, I think.
Just curious why you go with fuse as opposed to circuit breakers? Wouldn’t circuit breakers work better and be more convenient? Curious if I’m missing some advantage to fuses? Thanks and awesome videos!!!
The manual for the VFD specifies fuses. There are lots of details about how fast they open and the current conditions that can break. I just did what the manual said. There is a circuit breaker nearby in the panel, but that's of course not the same thing.
Clough42 thanks so much! I’m currently building a 5 axis with a 54” x 100” x 26” capacity with the hopes of being able to evolve it to machining steel. Your videos have been a huge inspiration and help! Thanks so much!!
Do you think you have enough rigidity to run a 3 hp spindle? I’ve got a Grizzly G0731, it’s an 8x30 knee mill with a 1.5 hp motor, and it doesn’t haven anywhere close to enough rigidity to run the motor at full load. About the most it can handle is 0.030 deep, 1” wide cuts in steel, and that’s the limit of rigidity, but not even pushing the motor at all.
cool project, out of curiosity, is there a reason you went with a 12k spindle? are you cutting with mainly under 1/8" diameter tooling? seems like it would be better fitted to a high speed machine using linear guide bearings maybe for that type of work. i like that it is a 4 pole with a max speed of 12k, so your right it should have more torque at lower rpm. just curious about your upgrade path and the factors behind it!
The existing spindle in the machine only runs at 2.2KRPM, which has been a big limiting factor. I run a lot of aluminum with 1/4" tools. The tools are specified for use up to 12KRPM, but I can't take advantage of that with the stock spindle. I probably don't need 3hp for that, but the excess power should translate into additional torque at slower speeds. This is my thinking. It still remains to be seen how that all works out.
@@Clough42 if you are strictly wanting 1/4 and under tooling the high rpm nay be beneficial, but on mine i run a 2hp 3ph ac motor with vfd and have 6k rpm top speed with gobs of torque for deeper cutting all the way down to 2rpm (1000:1 constant torque motor running in vector feedback mode). i think the machine itself will become the limitiing factory on its ability to cut at speed. so that 12k spindle will be able to move the 1/4" tool probably faster then your machine can move accurately on the dovetails. and you may have to back the spindle down out of its power range to compensate for the machine feed shortcomings. i run aluminum 90% onmmine and have very quick machine cycles for a small machine. my go to recipe is .75" DOC, 20% tool diameter WOC 0.003ipt using a 3 flute high helix endmill. while it isn't moving terribly fast at only 54ipm, its removing quite a bit of material in each swipe. with the 12k spindle im not sure it will like such a meaty cut. so even if you are moving at 108ipm feed rate (which on a dovetail stepper machine is gonna look awfully jerky probably) you will likely be taking half the width of cut or a shallower depth of cut. there are several of us who have modded these G0704's to the hilt and to date it is hard to beat the nachi tapered roller bearing upgrade, direct poly-v multi-rib belt drive conversion and 3ph AC motor, we are getting under 0.0001" runout on the stock spindle with the better bearings and they are very rigid and give superior surface finishes that shine like reflective mirrors right of the machine. even at 3/4" doc. we favor 3/8 and 1/2" endmills for material removal and use the smaller tools for rest machining. I am curious to see your results and will be following along! if you ever decide to go to a more torque like motor or want rigid tapping etc, linuxcnc and a spindle encoder is all you need and with the vector duty motors rated full torque at like 2 rpm tapping is a breeze as well as larger drills etc.. anyway very cool project regardless and its just different not worse probably, many ways to skin a cat!
I was planning on reading through the whole manual, but had not yet completed the task. To be fair, I was following the getting started instructions in the manual, which seems like a reasonable course of action. The smoke was because I didn't know one of the motor parameters. But the manual still has issues. The getting-started instructions tell you to set settings that can't be set until you read later in the manual how to turn them on. :(
@@Clough42 - I hope your qualifications will convince the person that you give your feedback about the manual, to actually change it where necessary. I have bent more than one customer support person's ear, who agreed with specific points, and no such changes ever get made.
Are you sure that it is a good idea to put all 3(U, V, W) through the same rings? The way I understand it, a current from one cable will induce current in other cables. Like a 1:1 transformer.
Not in this case. All of the energy going out though one phase should be returning through the others, so the net interaction with the inductor is zero. What we're after here is the common-mode energy that's not balanced and would otherwise radiate or capacitively couple to the motor and discharge to ground through the bearings. By putting all three phases through the cores, we raise the impedance to the common mode noise only. Also, the manual is explicit that all three phases loop through the same core four times or pass through the same four cores in series.
@@Clough42 How does this relate to the way you did the ferrite rings on the Lathe motor update? I think in that one, you ran them through the rings in a different way.
My God you do beautiful wiring! If you ever go into business assembling panels I'll have an order for you. You scared me though with the setup of the WJ. I just got one because SJ's are obsoleted but I know the SJ for my simple phase conversion/braking use. Does the WJ really need all that configuration for just driving a 2hp, 3 phase Leeson at 60hz?
Not at all. Most of the configuration is for advanced use cases, like positioning and PID process variable control. For a simple 60Hz motor, most of the defaults would work fine. You would need to set up the usual stuff (max and min frequency, motor current, start/stop/speed control inputs, etc.) From there, it's just a matter of fine tuning things if they annoy you (start and stop times, carrier frequency, etc.) I would set up SLV and auto-tune the motor, but that's not even critical. It just provides more torque at slow speeds.
The 240V wiring in my shop has no neutral conductor. I also have a 120V switched output on the CNC control box, so it's handy for automatically controlling the VFD power.
I may have had a little more of an emotional reaction than you describe. It still makes me cringe every time I turn on the air and get a little whiff of the smell. :(
Very jealous of your spindle, I bet it is gonna be perfect. Just a note, the fan would be better off in the door in my opinion Axial fans tend to be better when they are sucking air out of an enclosure than blowing air in. Also, especially in fans with sleeve bushes the bearings last longer if the fan is mounted so that the shaft is horizontal. I normally make two holes as inlets for each outlet with a fan. Some filter fluff over the inlets reduces dust in the enclosure and the double inlets stops the filters reducing the airflow too much. Some food for thought, love your channel btw.
The fan is oriented on the intake side to create positive pressure in the enclosure, and it's equipped with a computer case dust filter. Placing the fan on the exhaust would create negative pressure in the case and draw dust in around the door. This particular fan has ball bearings. www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/108-AFB0924LD
Heh, I went back and re-watched this video after the latest "valves" video. That bearing noise sure sounds familliar, but in my case it was definitely a roached top motor bearing. I replaced both of them while I had the motor apart, and had the rotor re balanced by a motor shop as well. It's super smooth now and no more rattles and shakes. Now I just have to put it back on the mill and see if any of my spindle bearings are roached as well. th-cam.com/video/8YfdCRDG33M/w-d-xo.html
@@Clough42, my interest in things mechanical stem from childhood Meccano sets. I then went on to be a CNC lathe, programmer /setter operator. I enjoy your videos very much. And like you, pump iron 💪🇬🇧
@@Clough42 Yeah, hurrah for erector sets! My brother and I got the big red metal boxed one for Xmas in 1959. Had screws all over the house for years after. When it finally ran its course, I used the motor to make yoyo strings, during the yoyo craze in the early 60s. Been repurposing things ever since.
Насладился всеми сериями установки шпинделя и говорю спасибо за возможность соучаствовать в действии сравнимым с произведением ИСКУССТВА!!!❤
I bet that little G0704 never thought when it got on the boat for America that it would some day have a $3500 spindle bolted on to it.
i have an old VFD. and an old cnc router. ive had problems for years since it came in "plug and play" watching this i am now going to go back and re do everything! thank you sir!!
While watching this video, I noticed that you have the main power leads connected to the bottom terminals on the fuse block. I realize this is a convenient point to connect them in your application, but it is not the correct place to connect the hot leads to! In case you forget to pull the power plug before opening the fuse holders, you still have power coming through the fuses which makes it dangerous if you touch the fuses.
The hot leads are supposed to be connected to the top terminals on the fuse holder. This way the fuses are completely disconnected from power the moment the fuse holders are opened up!
On the same note, the incoming power to a contactor, like the one you are using, is supposed to be connected to the top terminals! That is a standard in the electrical panel construction industry!
Hope this info helps on further projects.
The fuses actually do disconnect from the bottom, but the clearance is not as great, and I definitely don't trust it enough to touch the fuses.
If you find a Craftsman hand tool (ie screw drivers, wrenches) and it has a WF on it. That was manufactured by a company called Western Forge. They are an American company. It is a subsidiary of a company my dad used to work for. Or at least it was before he retired. WF make excellent quality tools in my opinion. Just a little FYI
Interesting. I have some that are maybe 2-3years old that are just garbage. Almost every single flat blade driver has broken. Sadly, they do in fact have the WF. I got some Wiha extra heavy duty screwdrivers really cheap and they have been MUCH better tools.
Awesome video. Alex is supposed to ship my S30 spindle any day and I had no clue how to hook up the VFD. I stand a much better chance of keeping the magic smoke contained after watching this. Thank You!
RTFM: the best advise ever. Thanks for sharing your project with the world!
I think different people learn differently. I find that I go back and forth. I read enough to have a pretty good idea how to take some first steps. Then I take those steps, get stuck and go back to the manual with a better idea what I need to know. And so on. In this case, overheating the motor freaked me out, so I took the time to read everything before going any further.
@@Clough42 This is me also. Finally getting ready to wire everything up after a year hiatus. Having to re-learn, but seems to be coming back quickly.
38:41 Glad you heard me when I was yelling "change the frequency back to 400Hz"...
Yeah... Thanks for that. I almost missed it.
But you didn't hear me yelling AIR!! :D
I never knew how much I didn't know about these things, but I know a little now. 😊 Those VFDs are still mysterious black boxes. 😮
They can be. When they work, they're wonderful. When they don't, they can be maddening.
@@Clough42 - Yes. Oh My God, Yes.
@Clough42, I have a S30C on order from CNC Depot and this video was VERY illuminating. Thanks for sharing the knowledge. Also, I appreciate that you put all the affiliate links in the description, but could you also put links for the other items -- like the box, the fuses, the contractors, etc. That would be a huge help too, thank you!
Wow you have everything imaginable in that shop yet no heat
Oh baby!!! I've had my eye on their spindle for a while. WOOOOOO
What model contactor and noise filter are you using. I didn't see it in your "stuff" list.
Should include an air pressure switch as part of the interlock circuit.
Thanks for braving the cold, such great attention to detail in your videos. Much appreciated :)
You're welcome.
I was under the impression that the compressed air regulator is usually installed upstream of the filtration system. Dropping the pressure will normally cool the air and tend to produce moisture.
Very neat motor and set up. Nice.
I was thinking the same thing. It’s interesting to see that most manufacturer’s sell these things with the regulator downstream from the filters/driers (just like what you have).
The system is modular, so it can be reconfigured, but this is the way it came from the factory.
Wow! That spindle is super quiet compared to the air cooled 2.2kw I have. I did see these spindles on cncdepot and like the ceramic bearing one. Not cheap!
I would suggest a solenoid in the air supply to make sure it was on as the spindle started or the VFD was powered
Yup. That's the plan.
classy set up and very nice delivery of well thought out information , excellent vid
Awesome job as always. I recently switched from MACH3 to LinuxCNC and what a great difference. Much faster, reacts faster and the steppers runs much smoother. And that with the standard LPT port. Maybe something to consider.
For LPT port control, I totally believe that. I'm using an FPGA-based motion controller (ESS SmoothStepper) so that isn't really a concern. I fiddled with LinuxCNC when I first started out (on the LPT) and couldn't get it to work on the Eden VIA motherboard I'm using.
The VFD I got (mistakenly for my mill) has lots of parameters as well, but thankfully I don't need most of them. I can see why you chose the settings you did though, considering the purpose behind yours. Was cool to see the control box come together too, looked pro.
Hi James, love the channel, great content. Sorry if this has already been covered, I haven't gone through all of the comments. I don't know what it should be but when you stated at 4:43 you were using 90psi for the purge air pressure my spidey senses started tingling. I can't remember what I have seen other spindles set to but 90psi seems unnecessarily high to me, possibly even damaging. I would love to hear from others what their thoughts are on what a typical pressure setting should be set to for the purge air pressure. Keep up the great videos, they are awesome to watch!
That VFD is awesome.
The volume of parameters is impressive. I bet you could make that work for so many different use cases.
Where did you get the box? I got one vaguely similar for a VFD "used" off ebay but I've been looking for a source of boxes for future projects.
One point that you might have done off camera and didn't mention. When plumbing new pneumatic parts, you might want to purge everything before connecting the last line to the spindle. When hooking up new machines I see things like paint flakes and the other odd debris come out of new equipment. Especially since it looked like your filter/reg unit did not come with seal plugs.
It did come with seal plugs, and I did purge it off camera. Good points.
Clough42 this is the most comprehensive video on how to hook up a ATC Spindle and VFD that I have found.
Thank you! thank you! thank you!
Even though my spindle is not exactly like yours, the general wiring instructions you gave are very clear and concise. The VFD settings are not like the Huanyang VFD but they are close. The safety considerations are really good.
Thank you for that 400 Hz tip. And the temperature connection is definitely a must.
I noticed that you have several angles on your video. Are you videotaping at the same time on all three cameras?
Thanks again.
James isn't kidding about the number of parameters on the Hitachi WJ200 VFD - 200 pages!!! I have one and it took a while to set everything up but it works great.
Thanks for your great videos! This head is just what I’ve been looking for
I'm really glad you are documenting the install this spindle because it's 2x the cost of my first car :) Looking forward to see it in action. Peace
I'm sure the Mechatron ATC 80 spindles cost a lot more than this does.
Thanks again for the excellent video! I just got an ebay score WJ200 up and running tonight. B037 being set to 04 threw me for a loop for a bit though.
I like the perforated steel back plates. It saves having to drill mounting holes for the components. Not a big fan of wire duct. I prefer lacing cord and plastic mounting straps.
I did my mill enclosure with low-profile 3D-printed plastic rails and zip ties to hold the wires down. The big win with the cable duct is that it's easy to add stuff progressively or make changes in the future. The downside is that it takes up space and blocks airflow.
Awesome project an a great video
Hi, Are you going to use a braking resistor for the spindle to stop promptly for the ATC?
Another great video. Can you tell me where you got the 8” deep box? It’s nice.
Also, the RFI filter. How come you didn’t get an EMI filter?
Paul
Can you provide a part number for your 30 Amp filter. I have found several 20Amp but no 30.
Hello Clough I didn’t notice a link to the enclosure
Hello, Thank you for a great video.
Which model contractor did you use?
I love these circuit explanation videos. What are the connectors above the RJ45 called?
Those are AMP CPC connectors. www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity/206486-1?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvG94qpybaIZbTrHKt3B0oIkUYpYlADsj4%3D
very good video thanks for your time
Thanks! I'm glad you liked it.
Love the detailed approach to your every video
James, do you have a link for the Wiegmann box? Can't find the same one on Amazon.
Why did you not connect the vfd control board to you cnc controller, so you can control the spindle speeds in mach 3?
I will. I'm planning to use RS485 for that communication, so I didn't wire up any relays or the 0-10v analog signal.
@@Clough42 im going to pretend i understood all that tech talk and say "great!" :)
@@minskmade There are (at least) two ways to control the VFD remotely:
One way is to use switch closures to control on-off type things like "on" and "direction", and to use an analog voltage (like 0-10 volts) to control the speed. This takes a lot of individual wires, because you pretty much need a separate wire for each function you need to control.
The other way is to use "serial communications". This is like a primitive version of the Internet* where you just need a single pair of wires, and you can send commands to the VFD as a series of bytes, and get responses back from the VFD as a series of bytes. This only takes two (or maybe 4) wires on a single connector, and for most things works at least as well as the many wires that you would use for discrete functions.
I don't know if any of that explanation helped, or if it was just more gobbledygook. :-)
(* I'm simplifying here, just a bit.)
I see l wilton already responded to you.
RS485 is a communication standard for devices to talk to each other. Think of it like a USB connection that allows commands to be sent to the VFD and status information to be read back to the computer. It uses only two wires, and unlike USB, it is designed to operate in hostile, electrically noisy industrial environments.
I wonder if that tuning operation should be done with a simulated tool in the spindle.
do you have a link to that manual. I am having a hard time to find it. I have the same spindle and vfd as you but the book i have is very small and hard to read
Excited for this series!
Have you ever tried the Masso controller? It looks awesome
Thanks for doing this! I’m working on my own G0704 conversion with DMM servos and an Acorn Board. I was wondering why the use of fuses is preferable to using a circuit breaker ? Do those fuse blocks have replaceable fuses - or you need to replace the whole block if one blows? I’m thinking this will be my spindle set up eventually.... super! Thanks again.
They're fuse holders that hold replaceable 10x38mm ceramic fuses. Many VFD manuals call for both a Molded Case Circuit Breaker (MCCB) and a fuse. I've heard it suggested that this is because the UL testing was done with fuses on a circuit with a breaker, so something something certification. I'm not sure if that's legit. The Hitachi WJ200 manual calls for a breaker, GFI, or fused disconnect. Some VFD manuals specify "semiconductor" fuses, which are extra-fast, presumably to protect the semiconductors in the drive. In this case, I'm using normal fast-acting ceramic fuses.
@@Clough42 I noticed that, like most CE products, the fuse holders are not UL listed. Not unusual since almost all Chinese electric products are not UL listed and therefore illegal to install by US code regulations. This is a problem I have personally encountered as I am rewiring my 1909 Craftsman home into a modern smart house. Finding UL listed (affordable) devices and components is quite difficult and most of the stuff sold on eBay and Amazon is not listed so while it might be perfectly adequate, electronically speaking, it is, in fact, illegal to use. As an example, the Arduino is not UL listed as is the Raspberry Pi and as such is not useable in a code approved installation.
Only thing I did not like is that you did not put a shrink wrap of a different color on the white white, even take a red maker and color it, so there is no question it is not a neutral wire! I really like the rest of your build!
+1 for getting happy about a screwdriver
Hello. For very first run of your fine filtering pneumatic system it is good practice to blowing it without spindle connected, you know why. Nice video. Thanks
I found the previous series on the Lathe motor retrofit worth it for me. I’m expecting this one will also be worth it. I’m really interested in seeing how you deal with the air solenoids, fed from VFD switching. Seems like this is simpler and more reliable than what I was thinking - that was having additional ATC and Spindle Cooling relays, driven programmatically through MACH 3/4. Can’t wait till I see how you do this.
I'll be covering that shortly. I have some additional concerns, since I'm shooting video and want to be as efficient as possible with air consumption, so I don't have compressor noise in the background all the time. I think I have a good solution for this, and you'll see it soon.
Do you happen to have the info for the line filter you used on the 240V from the wall? I will be putting one of these VFDs on a lathe in the next couple months and adding one of those is on my list. Since you seem to have pretty solid results it would save me some shopping around.
Also...is the cable from the OPE-SRmini just a straight pass through? I could not find much information about that cable pinout online and Hitachi have not been very helpful. I already have a bunch of cat5e cable around and rj45 connectors so $15 for that cable seems pretty steep!
Hi James, thank you for this video. It was helpful since I have the same spindle just the s30c version. I also have the wj200 vfd. I have a question for you. I wanted to hook up the thermal cutout to the vfd just like you did, however you used the logic terminals L and input 3. Since I am using some of the logic inputs for fwd run and analog 0-10 volt spindle speed I had to move the jumper over to the sink option. PLC and L. So, is there still a way to hook up the thermal cutout? What do you suggest?
Thank you
Bill
19:07 "It made me happy" - Sometimes, it's the little things that count. If you're not having fun with your hobby, is it worth doing?
Agreed.
Droppin' names! Electroboom makes some entertaining and educational content that I have enjoyed. Thumbs-up for mentioning him. :)
Does the pneumatic filter also capture moisture? I don't think you would like water near your bearings or seal.
Yes. Both filter chambers are also water separators. There's no desiccant dryer, but I live in southern Idaho, where we drain the compressor tank every couple of years, whether it needs it or not. :)
Hi Folks. I'm sure James has the input fusing correct for the USA. It would be wrong over here in the UK as our 230 volt AC is distibuted very differently. Take competent advice for your locality. BobUK.
I'm curious now. What kinds of differences? I've heard Big Clive talk about ring mains and the ground pin interlock on receptacles, but that's all I know.
Disclaimer: I am not a licensed electrician. I'm following the recommendations in the VFD manual, and I have done enough research to feel okay about wiring my own tools in my own shop. Sometimes I even turn off the breaker when working on a branch circuit. :)
@@Clough42 "Sometimes I even turn off the breaker when working on a branch circuit. :)" James, I knew you were my kind of guy. Praise the magic smoke!
Thank you for this video. I'm planning to install one of these on my mill later this year; right after I recover from having to purchase and install a new refrigerator that failed the first week of the new year. Thank you for showing how to set up the Hitachi VFD. I have two of these and only set the parameters necessary to get it running. With your tutorial I can now set the other parameters to get the most out of my VFD/motor combination. Have you thought about switching from Mach3/Mach4 to the Acorn board and running Centroid CNC12? I recently made the switch and I'm much happier.
MACH3 is working for me. I have a "new" motherboard already set up with Windows 10 waiting for MACH4, but haven't gotten around to it yet. It's tough to want to jump in and tear up something that's working. Acorn/Centroid looks pretty cool, but also not super cheap if you start adding many options.
"Non-Parallel Thread." It took me a moment to realize that that evaluated to NPT, which I always knew as National Pipe Thread.
Yes. You're correct. I had always heard it as non-parallel, but that appears to have no basis in reality.
Funny - I've always known it as National Pipe Taper! There is also a straight (non tapered) version.
There is also BSP, or British Standard Pipe, which is a straight thread that ALMOST matches to NPT. Its generally close enough that you can make it work, but I seem to recall it is something like 1 TPI off from NPT threads.
@@lwilton It's the same TPI, but a different threadform (rounded, not pointy), so if you thread a BSP male into a NPT female it will go, but it will leak like a sieve! Damn Brits :-P
Do you happen to have a list of stuff you used on the 12x14 control board for the VFD?
Did you check the video description?
@@Clough42 Sorry about that didn't see that the first time. In a hurry before work. AHHH
I think a lot of the made in USA hand tools are done by Stanley and some place called western forge, but not all craftsmen hand tools are made in the USA so you kinda gotta eyeball that, if you are ever wondering why 2 almost identical socket sets are 30 bucks apart in price
Yeah, and even the import tools vary in price and quality. Offshore producers are capable of excellent quality, but many companies outsourcing production demand a lower price, and the manufacturer is happy to oblige.
Do you have suggestions for the fuses and contactors you use?
I love your videos, I'm Subscribed, but you don't show up in my feed. Glad I noticed you did a new vid.
Check the bell icon to see if it is set to "always". TH-cam defaults to "occasional" notifications when you subscribe to a channel. They don't seem to define anywhere what "occasional" really means, but it appears to be mostly useless.
Yeah, the TH-cam algorithm is a mystery wrapped in an enigma. I think the bell icon is the solution.
@@Clough42 It is strange since the algorithm, must see that I subbed you. I've search for your videos, and watched a ton recently. :-) Your VFD videos really helped me, thanks.
Non parallel threads? I think you mean National Pipe Threads around the 7:00 Mark when you’re hooking up the 2 stage air particulate filter.
Actually, what he said is right. I was taught National Pipe Thread which is also correct but not technically what the threads are. Non-parallel threads are important to know as there are parallel threads such as the British parallel thread also used in the US. Technically, the NPT thread, regardless of what you call it is limited in application if you have an application with thermal cycling such as Air Conditioning. Non-parallel threads seat differently at a slight angle and when the connector heats and cools it will loosen itself over time. A parallel threat will not do that and seals face to face and not with compression at the threads.
I am building a CNC system right now and planned on running my motion controls and the 2.2kw spindle on the same 30a 240v line. By looking at this, you (and the VFD pages I am looking at) say that the input current can be more than double the output current. Is that true, or could I run the VFD and the 4 servos all off the same line? That seems highly inefficient to use double the power than it is putting out.
Hello What a nice spindle you have there can you give us some information ore a link where we can bye this nice thing
Is James still running the ATC spindle? His newer video doesn't show it on the mill, makes me wonder if he took it off
It's on the Avid CNC router now.
all i know is that the spindle is so quiet i kept hearing the case fan over it.
i don't understand something, how do you know the RPM the spindle? i saw the current measure but didn't see a RPM read anywhere. does it hook to the cnc board?
Sorry... The video was getting long, so I didn't show it, but I calculated the speed based on the top frequency of 400Hz, and also measured with a laser tachometer. I'll show it in the next video.
Very interesting, thanks.
Also you probably have seal rings on the nose. Worked on May spindles. glad you did not go with or look at the spindles made by PDS (precision Drive Systems).
That may well be. I'm speculating based on general knowledge. I didn't take it apart first, and I hope not to.
@@Clough42 some do some don't. the one you have looks very nice. The most amazing one I worked on ran 190,000 rpm. Thought it was going to be a screamer for the rpms but it was so quiet. Amazing piece of equipment. Great job on your videos. And thank you.
Could you share the link to buy the spindle and share your reviews plz
I think your assumption about Craftsman being just junk now may be incorrect.
Not only did you discover the screwdriver but I just took my ratchet into Lowe's to warranty it. I bought the original about 25 years ago and the one they replaced it with is actually better. Not that Craftsman was ever top-of-the-line to begin with but the hand tools I've used are decent, quality tools. The table-top drill press I bought at the same time as the ratchet was pretty crappy but the hand tools are decent.
I was surprised. So many once-proud brands are eventually sold off and exploited (cough, cough, Porter Cable) and I assumed this was the same.
Very interesting project once again James. Thanks for taking us along for the ride and warning us of the bear traps.
I must admit I winced a bit when you forgot the positive pressure purge air, and it made me wonder that if you went to the effort of interlocking the tool release, why you didn't have a pressure switch for the purge air too. That way, the VFD can only operate the spindle under sane and safe conditions. I think you still have sensor inputs spare, or do you plan to do this under Mach 3 control?
Yes, I have inputs to spare, assuming I use RS485 for spindle control. I am planning to do something like you suggest.
That motor is sooo cool, that's it's almost a shame that it's being mounted to a Grizzly. I hope you use the Grizzly to machine new parts to build a better mill. Perhaps with epoxy granite base, sealed linear bearings?
Think of the G0704 as a casting kit for a CNC mill build.
very nice job mate,
Based on my usual experience with Ace Hardware, I'd assume that screwdriver has been sitting there since the last time they restocked in the 70s.
By shutting off the 24v power supply, to turn the control box off & on, you remove the possibility of post-run cooling of the VFD. Do you have a link for the spindle and VFD? I'm sure they above my pay grade but I have been window shopping for a spindle with a tool changer for my CNC project and your spindle looks like the one. Is that a BT30 spindle? You might put in an infrared lamp to keep you warm while standing at your work bench. They work great and you don't have to heat the whole shop.
I'm not shutting down the power when I turn off the spindle--just at the end of a session. The spindle will stop at the end of a cut, and the power will stay on for a while--until I shut down the mill and turn out the lights.
It's an ISO30 spindle. It is compatible with BT30 tooling, but has no drive lugs. It's primarily intended for high-speed operation with small tools.
The infrared lamp is a good idea. I have a 4KW electric heater in the shop, but I leave it off while filming to get good sound. The infrared lamp would be quiet, but I also work pretty hard to color-match all of the light sources in the shop. I suspect an IR lamp would mess that up. But it would be worth a try.
@@Clough42 I'm sure your fans would be happy with you being slightly off color and warm rather than being color neutral but on the verge of turning blue. Do you have any info for the Mfg of the spindle or is it a pre-production secret, in which case I'll quit asking?
If I'm not mistaken, you can feed the input of a pressure sensor (or more than one) to the VFD to monitor the air pressure going to the spindle, which I would do as a safety measure. If the VFD has enough inputs, you could also do a sensor for coolant flow/pressure /level if you use coolant so that the VFD would be able to shut down the spindle if you lose either vital supplies. Also, do you need a braking resistor?
I have been looking at pressure sensors. Most of the ones I'm seeing are designed for compressor air tanks, so they kick on around 70PSI and off above 125 or so. I suppose that would work, since the regulated supply shouldn't exceed 90PSI. That would be a good addition.
I don't know yet if I need a braking resistor. This VFD has provision for it if needed. By default, it's configured to spin down over 10 seconds. Once it's on the mill and I can mount tools properly, I'll work on tuning it for faster stops. It can apply 20% braking force with an internal transistor, and that may be enough.
@@Clough42 Where are you looking for sensors? There are a really wide variety of sensors that will output either 0-5V or 4-20ma (depending on the inputs of the VFD) over a useful range for this application. Alternatively, I think I could help source a simple Hobbs switch that would trip below X PSI to provide a really simple safety.
@@mattemther6060 I hadn't thought if using an analog input on the VFD with a voltage or current transducer. Not sure if it has the flexibility for that. I've been looking in eBay and coming up with lots of compressor tank switches that aren't really suitable.
@@Clough42 the manual should have the specs for any inputs, so knowing that would narrow down your choices. sensing.honeywell.com/honeywell-sensing-switch-5000-series-productsheet.pdf
Something like this would fit the bill, I think.
@@Clough42 Stainless Steel 1/8 Inches Pneumatic Adjustable Pump Pressure Switch QPM11-NC Normally Close www.amazon.com/dp/B00NXIXR60/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rg5kEbMTCAQMK
Can you please tell me from where i can buy this spindle and its VFD ?
Just curious why you go with fuse as opposed to circuit breakers? Wouldn’t circuit breakers work better and be more convenient? Curious if I’m missing some advantage to fuses? Thanks and awesome videos!!!
The manual for the VFD specifies fuses. There are lots of details about how fast they open and the current conditions that can break. I just did what the manual said. There is a circuit breaker nearby in the panel, but that's of course not the same thing.
Clough42 thanks so much! I’m currently building a 5 axis with a 54” x 100” x 26” capacity with the hopes of being able to evolve it to machining steel. Your videos have been a huge inspiration and help! Thanks so much!!
Do you think you have enough rigidity to run a 3 hp spindle? I’ve got a Grizzly G0731, it’s an 8x30 knee mill with a 1.5 hp motor, and it doesn’t haven anywhere close to enough rigidity to run the motor at full load. About the most it can handle is 0.030 deep, 1” wide cuts in steel, and that’s the limit of rigidity, but not even pushing the motor at all.
You must spend a lot of money on tools and equipment for not much going out the door lol keep up the awesome work
Great video and looking forward to the build series.
cool project, out of curiosity, is there a reason you went with a 12k spindle? are you cutting with mainly under 1/8" diameter tooling? seems like it would be better fitted to a high speed machine using linear guide bearings maybe for that type of work. i like that it is a 4 pole with a max speed of 12k, so your right it should have more torque at lower rpm. just curious about your upgrade path and the factors behind it!
The existing spindle in the machine only runs at 2.2KRPM, which has been a big limiting factor. I run a lot of aluminum with 1/4" tools. The tools are specified for use up to 12KRPM, but I can't take advantage of that with the stock spindle. I probably don't need 3hp for that, but the excess power should translate into additional torque at slower speeds. This is my thinking. It still remains to be seen how that all works out.
@@Clough42 if you are strictly wanting 1/4 and under tooling the high rpm nay be beneficial, but on mine i run a 2hp 3ph ac motor with vfd and have 6k rpm top speed with gobs of torque for deeper cutting all the way down to 2rpm (1000:1 constant torque motor running in vector feedback mode). i think the machine itself will become the limitiing factory on its ability to cut at speed. so that 12k spindle will be able to move the 1/4" tool probably faster then your machine can move accurately on the dovetails. and you may have to back the spindle down out of its power range to compensate for the machine feed shortcomings. i run aluminum 90% onmmine and have very quick machine cycles for a small machine. my go to recipe is .75" DOC, 20% tool diameter WOC 0.003ipt using a 3 flute high helix endmill. while it isn't moving terribly fast at only 54ipm, its removing quite a bit of material in each swipe. with the 12k spindle im not sure it will like such a meaty cut. so even if you are moving at 108ipm feed rate (which on a dovetail stepper machine is gonna look awfully jerky probably) you will likely be taking half the width of cut or a shallower depth of cut. there are several of us who have modded these G0704's to the hilt and to date it is hard to beat the nachi tapered roller bearing upgrade, direct poly-v multi-rib belt drive conversion and 3ph AC motor, we are getting under 0.0001" runout on the stock spindle with the better bearings and they are very rigid and give superior surface finishes that shine like reflective mirrors right of the machine. even at 3/4" doc. we favor 3/8 and 1/2" endmills for material removal and use the smaller tools for rest machining. I am curious to see your results and will be following along! if you ever decide to go to a more torque like motor or want rigid tapping etc, linuxcnc and a spindle encoder is all you need and with the vector duty motors rated full torque at like 2 rpm tapping is a breeze as well as larger drills etc.. anyway very cool project regardless and its just different not worse probably, many ways to skin a cat!
Thanks!
I would love to add this beast to my G0894… anyone have any experience with putting it on one of Grizzly’s CNCs?
Did you decide to read through the whole manual before or after the magic smoke appeared ;)
I was planning on reading through the whole manual, but had not yet completed the task. To be fair, I was following the getting started instructions in the manual, which seems like a reasonable course of action. The smoke was because I didn't know one of the motor parameters. But the manual still has issues. The getting-started instructions tell you to set settings that can't be set until you read later in the manual how to turn them on. :(
James did a good service with this video. What a dumb way to write a manual! BobUK
@@Clough42 - I hope your qualifications will convince the person that you give your feedback about the manual, to actually change it where necessary. I have bent more than one customer support person's ear, who agreed with specific points, and no such changes ever get made.
Its been almost two years. Can you do a update and let us know how this project is going and lessons learned etc. Thanks
I just released a video today using the new spindle to cut tool steel and I spoke briefly about it. For aluminum, it's a monster. Would recommend.
Wow that’s your 220v cable? Here in the uk all sockets are 230v as standard and we only have normal thickness cable!
It's 30A. And it's SJOOW, rated for 300V. Mostly, I wanted something that will not melt if hot chips fall on it.
Clough42 great thinking!
@@Clough42 - Personal preference, but when the chips are metal I'm not comfortable with anything less than this. www.mcmaster.com/74115k3
Are you sure that it is a good idea to put all 3(U, V, W) through the same rings?
The way I understand it, a current from one cable will induce current in other cables. Like a 1:1 transformer.
Not in this case. All of the energy going out though one phase should be returning through the others, so the net interaction with the inductor is zero. What we're after here is the common-mode energy that's not balanced and would otherwise radiate or capacitively couple to the motor and discharge to ground through the bearings. By putting all three phases through the cores, we raise the impedance to the common mode noise only. Also, the manual is explicit that all three phases loop through the same core four times or pass through the same four cores in series.
@@Clough42 How does this relate to the way you did the ferrite rings on the Lathe motor update? I think in that one, you ran them through the rings in a different way.
Yes, I did. I've done quite a bit more study on the subject and I've learned a few things since then. I'll do a follow-up video with more info.
The link to buy the spindle is missed, how much it costed?
My God you do beautiful wiring!
If you ever go into business assembling panels I'll have an order for you.
You scared me though with the setup of the WJ.
I just got one because SJ's are obsoleted but I know the SJ for my simple phase conversion/braking use.
Does the WJ really need all that configuration for just driving a 2hp, 3 phase Leeson at 60hz?
Not at all. Most of the configuration is for advanced use cases, like positioning and PID process variable control. For a simple 60Hz motor, most of the defaults would work fine. You would need to set up the usual stuff (max and min frequency, motor current, start/stop/speed control inputs, etc.) From there, it's just a matter of fine tuning things if they annoy you (start and stop times, carrier frequency, etc.) I would set up SLV and auto-tune the motor, but that's not even critical. It just provides more torque at slow speeds.
@@Clough42 Thank you!
Any reason you didn’t use a 3 wire 240/120 plug with neutral to get 120 instead of 2 separate power feeds?
The 240V wiring in my shop has no neutral conductor. I also have a 120V switched output on the CNC control box, so it's handy for automatically controlling the VFD power.
@@Clough42 now that’s something you don’t see every day… no neutral. There must be a story there.
@@jameshancock not really. It's pretty common for high power outlets for welders, ovens, clothes dryers, etc. There's a ground, and two hot wires.
@@Clough42 oh I bought you meant the entire panel.
Can I get a part number for the EFI filter?
Spindle: smokes
clough: Meh its fine
xD
I may have had a little more of an emotional reaction than you describe. It still makes me cringe every time I turn on the air and get a little whiff of the smell. :(
What kind remote controller do you use ? can't find it
Linas - this is Hitachi OPE-SRmini, for example: www.hitachiacdrive.com/hitachi-ope-srmini/
Very jealous of your spindle, I bet it is gonna be perfect.
Just a note, the fan would be better off in the door in my opinion Axial fans tend to be better when they are sucking air out of an enclosure than blowing air in. Also, especially in fans with sleeve bushes the bearings last longer if the fan is mounted so that the shaft is horizontal. I normally make two holes as inlets for each outlet with a fan. Some filter fluff over the inlets reduces dust in the enclosure and the double inlets stops the filters reducing the airflow too much. Some food for thought, love your channel btw.
The fan is oriented on the intake side to create positive pressure in the enclosure, and it's equipped with a computer case dust filter. Placing the fan on the exhaust would create negative pressure in the case and draw dust in around the door. This particular fan has ball bearings. www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/108-AFB0924LD
Heh, I went back and re-watched this video after the latest "valves" video. That bearing noise sure sounds familliar, but in my case it was definitely a roached top motor bearing. I replaced both of them while I had the motor apart, and had the rotor re balanced by a motor shop as well. It's super smooth now and no more rattles and shakes. Now I just have to put it back on the mill and see if any of my spindle bearings are roached as well. th-cam.com/video/8YfdCRDG33M/w-d-xo.html
Ahh jeeze I haven't finished the ELS project yet!!
i havent started mine :P
Hi James, just a query, where did you gain your knowledge.
Are you a qualified engineer, electro mechanical?
My formal education is in computer science. Everything else is self-taught over a lifetime. I took apart all of my toys as a kid and haven't stopped.
@@Clough42, my interest in things mechanical stem from childhood Meccano sets.
I then went on to be a CNC lathe, programmer /setter operator.
I enjoy your videos very much.
And like you, pump iron 💪🇬🇧
Very cool, Ken. I had an Erector set as a kid, which I think is similar to Meccano. That was before Lego Technic, which I didn't discover until later.
@@Clough42 Yeah, hurrah for erector sets! My brother and I got the big red metal boxed one for Xmas in 1959. Had screws all over the house for years after. When it finally ran its course, I used the motor to make yoyo strings, during the yoyo craze in the early 60s. Been repurposing things ever since.