Engine Mount Removal Idea for S10
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ต.ค. 2024
- I am not a professional. This video is for entertainment purposes only. I am not sponsored by any company mentioned in this video. I did this install based on my own research and used my own money to purchase the products.
In this video I will show you how to drill a hole and use a temporary freeze plug (expansion plug) to make an access hole for those hard to get to engine mount nuts. I used a Dorman 1 1/2 plug to cover the hole once I was finished installing the engine mount. the part number is 02603. You can get these at Advance Auto Parts, O Reilly, AutoZone or even Amazon.
#lsswaptheworld #S10Life #LSSwapS10
Wish I would have found this video before I had to disassemble the lower control arm a second time... good tip! One thing that you could do and I didn't think about this until now, is to put the bolts in and tighten them. then weld the nuts on the underneath. Of course you need a welder to do this but this would eliminate the need to ever have to access the nut again.
@user-zq2nd6cp7l yeah I thought about welding nuts to the inside as well. Good idea, but I hope I don’t have to change the mouts that much…LOL.
Swapping a 383 into my 88 two door s10 blazer and am really glad you made this video
@joeychagnon-tw9vl Glad it helped you out. I swapped a 350 into my first V8 S10 build years ago and used this trick. The truck is still going and you can’t even tell there is an access hole there. Keeps rocks out of the frame too. Thanks for watching and commenting!!
All the years of being an S10 v8 swap enthusiast and on my 3rd build in the past 23yrs, this is the cleanest solution, I cut a hole just big enough to fit a pair of vice grips with the motor mount bolts in, however I REALLY don't like the idea of dirt and road debris getting stuck in there. Also I am glad I left them open because I discovered solid polyethylene mounts, the weight of the sbc smooshed the rubber wrapped in thin metal ones. So I was reading through comments on another channel from 5 months ago about fuel systems and what is the best without spending a fortune (right now just want it up and running, then I'll make adjustments). I do all my own work on these trucks, I don't turn down help though, a lot of people see my physical disability as a disadvantage, just takes me a little longer to finish things.
My plans for my 93 ext cab was an ls swap, now I'm too deep into it ,it will have to be the next. Thanks man for putting out this information, it really helps more people than you realize, I plan on watching your build from the start, btw my name is Kevin, thanks again and can't wait to see her when she's done!
@sbckev4172 Kevin, your comment means more than you know. It is things like this that is the reason I make videos. If someone picks up one little trick that helps them through a problem or gives them an idea in how to fix something, that is what I am in it for. Sure I would like to have a big channel, but all the help that I have received from others videos is why I want to give a little back. I am glad this helped you brother and I appreciate the views and the comments for sure!!
Not necessary to use the rubber stopper to plug the hole. Won't hurt anything to leave the hole open.
Yeah, I just didn’t want rocks getting into the frame. My truck is going to be driven on the road back and forth to work, race track, and summer cruise in’s.
@DTPerformance I'm in the process of 5.3 swapping my 94 dime. Managed to find a 2wd 8.5 rear end. Also have some Blazer brakes for the front and bucket seats from a cavalier. It's very much a work in progress but should be fun when I'm done.
@@shadymaint1 sound like you got a good start!! That’s great. I love to hear and see progress. Thanks for the feedback!!!
On my 94 S10 the holes in the frame for the motor mounts were threaded. New mounts bolted right up. Did not have to put nuts on the back side.
@shadymaint1 That’s nice and makes it easier I’m sure. I wished my engine mount holes were threaded.
Thank you for making this video.
@Tavo24vv thanks for watching!! I hope it helped you. Also thanks for the comment!!
Did the same on my 86
Cool. I did it years ago and thought I would share. I see alot of videos talking about taking the control arms off!! This is much easier and it doesn’t hurt a thing. Thanks for the view and the comment Allen.
Tapping the holes not possible?
There is not enough metal there in my opinion. I wouldn’t trust tapping the holes. It only looks to be 1/8” or MAYBE 3/16”.
@@dtperformance256 okay. Thanks for the reply. Imma noob lol. I’ll just cut a hole
@@dtperformance256 to help me better understand, if I was to tap the hole what problem would there be with the metal only being 1/8”? Power of the engine pull the bolts loose from frame or?
Thanks
@@Bobdole4373 yes. That would be my concern. Not enogh metal there to get enough threads to hold the torque from the emgine. If you have seen the nuts that are on the bottom of the engine mounts they have a washer style head with a large flat surface that helps to clamp the steel in the crossmember. That provides more surface area for the pull that comes from the engine to transmit out into the crossmember and is a lot stronger. By tapping a 1/8” or 3/16” piece of steel there is very minimal threads. Not enough threads to hold the force of the engine and very likely to cause the hole to strip out in my experience. Plus you couldn’t tighten it very tight due to the lack of threads in the steel. It would probably pull through if you tightened the bolts very tight at all.
@@Bobdole4373 that’s why we are all here. To teach each other from our experiences and to learn from others. I appreciate the questions and the view. I do this to try and help. I hope this helps you out my friend.