@AndyKruseChannel I have a 66 Mustang here in Australia that i am building and has a 302 windsor, numerous things on your car I have stolen your ideas to build a nice cruiser. How much hp did your 347 have once dynoed?
Great looking upgrade I went with a digital cluster. My oil pressure is 52-54 when cold and around 42-46 warm. I'm also running amzoil's zrod 10w-40 with the added zinc.
@@AndyKruseChannel it might be worth replacing the oil pump you can get a good quality new one for under $60 I believe. Then you can checkout the screen and gasket in the process to make sure that's not another reason for the pressure loss. Good luck either way 👍
Buy a high-volume Melling oil pump, hardened oil pump drive at the same time. You may want to invest in a 7 quart oil pan at the same time with matching oil tube pickup. True story, I actually had an oil pump (PAW automotive) go bad. The small freeze plug on the pump opened slightly, making the pressure drop to 10-15 lbs at idle. lucky for me I didn't destroy the engine. Rule of thumb, your engine should have around 10-12 psi of oil per every 1,000 RPM after the oil is warmed up.
Hey Andy, looking your video's for a while now. They are so helpful on doing these things to my own 66 coupe. Maybe your oil pressure is low because a bit of the teflon tape is blocking the oil to the sensor? Maybe the sensor is bad? Maybe the gauge is bad? New doesn't mean it's always good. Did you notice your oil pressure was low on your old gauge? You could always upgrade your oil pump, maybe there is some junk in the pickup that block your oil pump. Keep up the good work!
Thanks! The threads will make contact, as long as I don't put 20 layers of teflon on the threads. I thought about the sending unit being bad, but you're right, it could be the gauge too. The oil gauge was working before, but the letters "O I L" on the factory gauge doesn't tell me the pressure, so it's difficult to know what it was before. I fear the motor is done as it smokes when I drive and I've had front wheel drive cars from the 90s that felt faster than this thing. Oh well, it's only money!! :)
Nice upgrade. We like to put a longer pigtail on the cluster side so you can sit the cluster on the dash while doing diagnostics. Plus upgrading to an electric speedo for reasons your aware of. 😊
Love the gauges! I have the falcon style in my 65 and an upgrade is on the list. My completely worn out 289 was running 15psi hot at idle and 40 at speed. Ran like that for years.
Nice, neat work, Andy. Thank you! I plan to do something similar, as mine's the old 64-1/2 dash with a couple of idiot lights. Slightly more involved conversion but definitely worth it. And as long as your valvetrain isn't rattling, you have enough oil pressure.
Thanks! The time is greatly skewed by the setting up of the camera, lighting, and making sure I know what to say every time. Skill level plus tool availability will also affect the project time. I can see telling someone they can do something in an afternoon or over a long weekend might be helpful. But most of my projects are done in the evenings or on the weekend as I still have a day job. It breaks up the install because I only have a short amount of time to work on something, then I have to wait until the next day. This skews the timeframe as I forget how much time I spend on something that gets spread over a few days. I always put part numbers in the description below the video, and sometimes links, so it's easy for people to see what something would cost. Sometimes I purchase used parts, or find a one-time deal that others wouldn't get, so advertising what I paid is not always fair since most couldn't replicate that purchase. For this particular install, someone could knock it out on a Saturday, and they'll be out about $800. :)
don’t stress the oil pressure, mine idles hot at 14 pounds, 20w 50 oil. They will run and run. You can put a high volume oil pump that will gain you more pressure and peace of mind. Just get the hardened oil pump shaft because the high volume requires more turning input.
On the oil pressure gauge I had the same thing and then figured out that the install I read to not use thread tape as it uses the sending unit as the ground.
Yeah, there's a lot of great options out there and I want to do all of them. But in the end, this is one of those things where it's realistic to only pic one. :)
Very nice job. My 10 yr old 347 reads a little over 50psi cold, then to about 20psi hot (oil temp at 240°) at idle. I’m also running 20w-50. Maybe it’s time I rebuilt mine too 🤷🏻♂️
If you're referring to the push-in-sockets for the 194 bulbs, I purchased them from an Auto Parts store in my town. I did have to slightly shave off the "barbs" on the socket so it would fit, but it was minor. I put an Amazon link to something similar in the description below the video. Good luck! :)
Andy - love your videos! You really are a great help to the Mustang community. One question that's been nagging at me - can you see the cutout for the original speedo under the bezel with the 6-gauge bezel installed? I'm planning to do this to my 66 GT, but a visible gap would really bug me...
Sitting in the driver's seat, I cannot see it. If you bend over and try to look under the gauge bezel, you can see that dash metal is formed a little different than the rest, but only because you're looking for it. :)
if it falls below 10-15 when all warmed up, you know the engine is tired, jus like taking a compression test and its 120 -ish, its tired, but its still running good without smoking, be a good core for rebuild.
My oil pressure was reading low also, I think it was like 8 psi when it was at full temperature. I threw on a cheap mechanical oil pressure gauge and everything was all good. Now im in the high 20’s when driving at full temperature
Yeah, I been thinking about putting a mechanical unit on the extender tube and just see how it reads. I might just have a bad sending unit. Or my motor is done. :)
I've been watching your videos for awhile and they've been tremendously helpful while I work on restoring my '66. I was wondering though if your lights on the cluster still dim with the new sockets or not? Also, unrelated to the video, What size are your wheels/tires? I've been looking around for some wider wheels/tires for mine since I've still got those thinner type on her for now. Thanks! And keep up the work man
Thanks! The lighting with these new gauges is better as their design is 50 years newer. The lighting on the old gauges were partially horrible as it seemed like it was an after thought to add lights when they were designing the dash, and it seemed like they just put them where they'd fit instead of putting them where they should go. This made the lighting not very efficient. Even though the LED bulbs were better than the stock lights, the lighting in the new gauges is 100x better. Wheels are 16x7 with 4" backspacing (0mm offset) and the tires are 225/50/16.
This was a great video Andy, the cost of this is north of $800 currently, were the premade classic instruments bezels ever an option?, I am currently at this cross roads.
Yes, there are other options for gauges, and you'll have a hard time finding a full set or complete instrument cluster for less than $500. This is one of those things that you buy the gauges you want as you find them on sale. It may take a few months, but there are deals out there. Don't be afraid to buy used, sometimes the real deals are on that end of the spectrum. :)
An engine rebuild series would be cool. Is there a way we can get in touch with you besides here? My son and i took our mustang to our first cars-n-coffee last weekend thanks to the help of your videos and i wanted to send you a picture of it. I don’t have insta or any of those things. But we do have FB.
My dash is stock, but I’ve thought about going this route. Problem is those auto meter gauges are expensive! It’s almost worth it to spend a little more money and get Dakota digital stuff. Btw I have a 302 with around 5k miles on the rebuild…pressure is around 60psi cold then drops to mid 30s after it’s up to temp. Using 15w-40 rotella 👍🏼
Yeah, these gauges are pricey, it took a while to accumulate all the pieces, had to spread it out over quite a while. While they make good stuff, not sure that Dakota Digital is an upgrade. Yeah, I'm fearing that this motor is on its last leg. Maybe it's time for a rebuild.
Thanks for the video Andy. I'm glad that you picked black dials and not white, but any reason you went with non-chrome bezels? And why did you pick that particular brand? There are so many to choose from so all input is helpful. Or maybe it was just the looks that was the deciding factor.
Thanks! I like the race-look that these gauges provide, and to me the chrome doesn't sing that kind of song. I went with Autometer because they're almost the standard that other people compare to (kind of like how the BMW M3 use to be the car everyone compared their sports car to) and I wanted something that will work, always. Yes, there are other brands, and go brands too, but I know I can get parts if needed, and I know these gauges will work on day one. I did look into other companies that offer custom faces, and I was tempted, but I found the prices too high to justify that route. So in the end, it was price, style, and essentially a guarantee on reliability.
@@AndyKruseChannel Thanks. makes sense and having a six gauge cluster makes it look neat and tidy. If you really wanted the race look I guess you could have gone for the center mounted gauge on top of the dash instead, but then it wouldn't be a big change from what you already had installed :)
Nice upgrade. I’m thinking of putting a small tach in the dash of my 68 cougar where the clock is supposed to be. At the moment there is nothing there so it would be a good upgrade. I like how you did the wire harness, that would be a good idea even on a stock cluster, I know some of my stock connectors aren’t in that good of shape. Did you put normal bulbs in or LEDs?
I think you're right, wiring up the stock dash in a similar manor might be helpful. I stuck with the bulbs that came with the new gauges for now, figured I'd upgrade them down the road. :)
Nice content and good conversion to modern. I’m not sure what my 72 Ford oil pressure should be since it is a light only. I’m curious. I can say the 351W HO with GT40P heads in my Ski Nautique has always had high pressure of 50-70+, I assume it has a high volume, high pressure oil pump because it is the HO model and it is in a ski tow boat, the cam profile is basically the same as the Ford Lightning F150 engine came with.
Yeah, I figure my 289 is done and that oil pressure is the tell tale sign that she needs to be rebuilt. My new 347 sits around 50 psi, so at least I know that the gauge wasn't bad. :)
Hi again Andy ! Thanks for the advice, I am waiting mine ! I have another question, I plane to change my tires because it’s way too big and I just scratch a fenders… Front : 235/60/15 Rear : 255/60/15 Can you help me too choose the right one please ?
@@xXRPZXx I had 225/60/15, all four, on my last Mustang and I think they looked fantastic. However, part of that was because of the backspacing (offset) that my wheels had, which moves the tire out a little more over the factory wheels. Those wheels had a 3.75" backspacing (-6mm offset) and I loved it. My current car has 225/50/16 with a 4" backspacing (0mm offset) and I don't think it looks as good as the other ones. I'm not liking the larger wheels this time around and I kind of wish I could go back to that size I had on my previous Mustang. You already have 15 wheels, which I think is better as I feel that classic cars look better with taller-looking tires (more sidewall, not thin tires on current cars).
Great stuff Andy. Being a novice to this car fixin stuff I appreciate your videos. Even the ones where you make a mistake and future Andy makes an appearance and fills us in on what just went wrong. Haha. Quick question. My speedometer is not working and I tried to get the wire off of the cluster to inspect but I couldn't do it. I didn't want to break it so I stopped trying. (Even though it might already be shot). How does it come off? Do I twist and pull, do I use a mini adjustable wrench..etc? Thanks
Thanks for the feedback! The speedo cable is threaded, so there's no need to pull, just unscrew it. If the nut on the cable is spinning, it may just be on there all the way and so it will take several turns. If the nut is not spinning, the previous owner either used a wrench to tighten it down, or they cross-threaded it. Try getting in there with a wrench to see if it will "break loose", then continue to unthread it. You may need to disconnect it from the Trans so you can feed the cable up into the dash and allow you to pull the cluster out further to get that wrench on it. If you break that nut loose and find it's cross-threaded, I'd buy a new speedo cable and run a Die over the threads on that speedometer (5/8-18 thread). Good luck!
I found it on Ebay. I had in my previous Mustang and the buyer of that car let me keep it because they wanted to put a radio in the car. So now I have it for this car. :)
I made this recent upgrade to my 66 mustang. Did you recalibrate the odometer to reflect the total mileage of the car? If so, how did you do it. Thanks.
Nah, I left it as it came. I did put a sticker on the back of the speedometer with the mileage that was on the original when I swapped it out. And, because I'm a nerd, I have a full spreadsheet of this build and it's documented when I swapped out the speedometer. :)
If you disconnect the speedo cable on the transmission side you will have more slack inside to connect to the speedo, did the same thing on my 65 except I used mechanical gauges, also did you go back with led lighting.
Yes, I thought about that, but I didn't want to jack up the car and go through that whole process to get some slack in the cable. I'm using the regular bulbs for now, but I'll change to LEDs down the road. :)
you can up the oil pressure by putting in a high pressure oil pump. NOT high volume. i put one in mine when i built my 460 and i carry 70 lbs when cold and then 65 lbs when hot. with high pressure oil pump you dont have to get a 10 qt oil pan.
Question: I'm gonna install a set of standalone gauges (RPM & Volt ), I'm wondering if I should put a fuse in line with the power source? What do you think?
It depends on where you get your power from. If you grabbing from a fused source already, then it's kind of redundant, but it's not likely to hurt anything. If you're pulling from an unfused source (like the battery, or maybe of the hot side of the starter solenoid), then I strongly recommend putting a fuse in line. :)
Oh no. That's not good. I'm going to put in a set of electrical tripple guages. All my originals work, but they just give you an "idea" that things are working. I want more precise information. I have a 67. I wonder if they make guages to fit in my cluster like you did yours......🤔
G’day Andy, been watching your videos for the last two days now, you’re definitely going through this old girl like a boss!
Awesome work sir!
👍🇦🇺
Thanks 👍
I like the thinking behind the wiring harnesses!, I also like that you said "Weak Sauce" Lol!
Thanks! :)
Andy keep up the videos as I love watching them, very informative and great
Thanks, will do!
@AndyKruseChannel I have a 66 Mustang here in Australia that i am building and has a 302 windsor, numerous things on your car I have stolen your ideas to build a nice cruiser. How much hp did your 347 have once dynoed?
@@troyterry8048 There's a video of the Dyno. :)
Nice job Andy on explaining this installment
Thanks 👍
Great looking upgrade I went with a digital cluster. My oil pressure is 52-54 when cold and around 42-46 warm. I'm also running amzoil's zrod 10w-40 with the added zinc.
My oil pressure is no where near what you and others are reporting, my motor is probably done. :(
@@AndyKruseChannel it might be worth replacing the oil pump you can get a good quality new one for under $60 I believe. Then you can checkout the screen and gasket in the process to make sure that's not another reason for the pressure loss. Good luck either way 👍
Buy a high-volume Melling oil pump, hardened oil pump drive at the same time. You may want to invest in a 7 quart oil pan at the same time with matching oil tube pickup.
True story, I actually had an oil pump (PAW automotive) go bad. The small freeze plug on the pump opened slightly, making the pressure drop to 10-15 lbs at idle. lucky for me I didn't destroy the engine.
Rule of thumb, your engine should have around 10-12 psi of oil per every 1,000 RPM after the oil is warmed up.
It's a good idea to pull the steering wheel and add a pigtail. it just makes it a little bit easier.
Not sure what you mean.
Hey Andy, looking your video's for a while now. They are so helpful on doing these things to my own 66 coupe.
Maybe your oil pressure is low because a bit of the teflon tape is blocking the oil to the sensor? Maybe the sensor is bad? Maybe the gauge is bad? New doesn't mean it's always good.
Did you notice your oil pressure was low on your old gauge? You could always upgrade your oil pump, maybe there is some junk in the pickup that block your oil pump.
Keep up the good work!
Thanks!
The threads will make contact, as long as I don't put 20 layers of teflon on the threads. I thought about the sending unit being bad, but you're right, it could be the gauge too. The oil gauge was working before, but the letters "O I L" on the factory gauge doesn't tell me the pressure, so it's difficult to know what it was before.
I fear the motor is done as it smokes when I drive and I've had front wheel drive cars from the 90s that felt faster than this thing. Oh well, it's only money!! :)
@@AndyKruseChannel ooof smoke out of the pipes isn't good :(
Nice job and thanks for sharing. I personally would have used some heat shrink tubing to be safe, but I'm sure those connectors will be fine.
Connections were fine. I had to rewire the whole cluster anyways when I did the full wire job on my car. :)
Thank you for this video. Future plans for my 70 dart
Glad it was helpful!
Nice upgrade. We like to put a longer pigtail on the cluster side so you can sit the cluster on the dash while doing diagnostics. Plus upgrading to an electric speedo for reasons your aware of. 😊
That's a great idea!
Love the gauges! I have the falcon style in my 65 and an upgrade is on the list. My completely worn out 289 was running 15psi hot at idle and 40 at speed. Ran like that for years.
Yeah, I think my motor is done, my oil pressure isn't that high.
Nice sound effects when you were turning the wrenches lol
Haha, thanks, it was a poor attempt at having a little fun with the video. :)
Nice, neat work, Andy. Thank you! I plan to do something similar, as mine's the old 64-1/2 dash with a couple of idiot lights. Slightly more involved conversion but definitely worth it. And as long as your valvetrain isn't rattling, you have enough oil pressure.
The whole thing is "rattling", so I think it's time to find new options with this motor. :)
Good job Andy👍🏾
Thanks 👍
Andy enjoy the videos. It would be great to the time it takes and cost of the mods when your doing videos. Looking forward to the engine rebuild.
Thanks!
The time is greatly skewed by the setting up of the camera, lighting, and making sure I know what to say every time. Skill level plus tool availability will also affect the project time. I can see telling someone they can do something in an afternoon or over a long weekend might be helpful. But most of my projects are done in the evenings or on the weekend as I still have a day job. It breaks up the install because I only have a short amount of time to work on something, then I have to wait until the next day. This skews the timeframe as I forget how much time I spend on something that gets spread over a few days.
I always put part numbers in the description below the video, and sometimes links, so it's easy for people to see what something would cost. Sometimes I purchase used parts, or find a one-time deal that others wouldn't get, so advertising what I paid is not always fair since most couldn't replicate that purchase.
For this particular install, someone could knock it out on a Saturday, and they'll be out about $800. :)
don’t stress the oil pressure, mine idles hot at 14 pounds, 20w 50 oil. They will run and run. You can put a high volume oil pump that will gain you more pressure and peace of mind. Just get the hardened oil pump shaft because the high volume requires more turning input.
Yeah, I'm running straight 30W oil now. My guess is the motor is done. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel sorry bro
On the oil pressure gauge I had the same thing and then figured out that the install I read to not use thread tape as it uses the sending unit as the ground.
Wouldn't it be easier to just rebuild the motor! :)
I LOVE the look of this way better than anything else. Ill be copying you haha. I was a car audio guy too
Yeah, there's a lot of great options out there and I want to do all of them. But in the end, this is one of those things where it's realistic to only pic one. :)
Very nice job. My 10 yr old 347 reads a little over 50psi cold, then to about 20psi hot (oil temp at 240°) at idle. I’m also running 20w-50. Maybe it’s time I rebuilt mine too 🤷🏻♂️
Thanks!
Yeah, I think this motor is just about ready to be done. :(
Hi Andy, could you show where you got the baseboard light sockets? This video came at a perfect time as I gather all the pieces to do this to my 65.
If you're referring to the push-in-sockets for the 194 bulbs, I purchased them from an Auto Parts store in my town. I did have to slightly shave off the "barbs" on the socket so it would fit, but it was minor. I put an Amazon link to something similar in the description below the video. Good luck! :)
Great video, Andy!
Thanks!!
Andy - love your videos! You really are a great help to the Mustang community. One question that's been nagging at me - can you see the cutout for the original speedo under the bezel with the 6-gauge bezel installed? I'm planning to do this to my 66 GT, but a visible gap would really bug me...
Sitting in the driver's seat, I cannot see it. If you bend over and try to look under the gauge bezel, you can see that dash metal is formed a little different than the rest, but only because you're looking for it. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Thanks!
if it falls below 10-15 when all warmed up, you know the engine is tired, jus like taking a compression test and its 120 -ish, its tired, but its still running good without smoking, be a good core for rebuild.
Yeah, this is an old video. :)
Looking good 👍🏼
Thank you! Cheers!
They do look good.
Thanks. :)
My oil pressure was reading low also, I think it was like 8 psi when it was at full temperature.
I threw on a cheap mechanical oil pressure gauge and everything was all good. Now im in the high 20’s when driving at full temperature
Yeah, I been thinking about putting a mechanical unit on the extender tube and just see how it reads. I might just have a bad sending unit. Or my motor is done. :)
Nice looking ride!
Question, where did you run the grounds from the reducers?
Thanks. What do you mean by reducers?
I've been watching your videos for awhile and they've been tremendously helpful while I work on restoring my '66. I was wondering though if your lights on the cluster still dim with the new sockets or not?
Also, unrelated to the video, What size are your wheels/tires? I've been looking around for some wider wheels/tires for mine since I've still got those thinner type on her for now.
Thanks! And keep up the work man
Thanks!
The lighting with these new gauges is better as their design is 50 years newer. The lighting on the old gauges were partially horrible as it seemed like it was an after thought to add lights when they were designing the dash, and it seemed like they just put them where they'd fit instead of putting them where they should go. This made the lighting not very efficient. Even though the LED bulbs were better than the stock lights, the lighting in the new gauges is 100x better.
Wheels are 16x7 with 4" backspacing (0mm offset) and the tires are 225/50/16.
This was a great video Andy, the cost of this is north of $800 currently, were the premade classic instruments bezels ever an option?, I am currently at this cross roads.
Yes, there are other options for gauges, and you'll have a hard time finding a full set or complete instrument cluster for less than $500. This is one of those things that you buy the gauges you want as you find them on sale. It may take a few months, but there are deals out there. Don't be afraid to buy used, sometimes the real deals are on that end of the spectrum. :)
Awesome! I was looking into doing this.
Go for it!
An engine rebuild series would be cool.
Is there a way we can get in touch with you besides here?
My son and i took our mustang to our first cars-n-coffee last weekend thanks to the help of your videos and i wanted to send you a picture of it.
I don’t have insta or any of those things. But we do have FB.
I have my channel email posted in the "about" tab on my TH-cam page. :)
My dash is stock, but I’ve thought about going this route. Problem is those auto meter gauges are expensive! It’s almost worth it to spend a little more money and get Dakota digital stuff. Btw I have a 302 with around 5k miles on the rebuild…pressure is around 60psi cold then drops to mid 30s after it’s up to temp. Using 15w-40 rotella 👍🏼
Yeah, these gauges are pricey, it took a while to accumulate all the pieces, had to spread it out over quite a while. While they make good stuff, not sure that Dakota Digital is an upgrade.
Yeah, I'm fearing that this motor is on its last leg. Maybe it's time for a rebuild.
Thanks for the video Andy. I'm glad that you picked black dials and not white, but any reason you went with non-chrome bezels? And why did you pick that particular brand? There are so many to choose from so all input is helpful. Or maybe it was just the looks that was the deciding factor.
Thanks!
I like the race-look that these gauges provide, and to me the chrome doesn't sing that kind of song. I went with Autometer because they're almost the standard that other people compare to (kind of like how the BMW M3 use to be the car everyone compared their sports car to) and I wanted something that will work, always. Yes, there are other brands, and go brands too, but I know I can get parts if needed, and I know these gauges will work on day one. I did look into other companies that offer custom faces, and I was tempted, but I found the prices too high to justify that route. So in the end, it was price, style, and essentially a guarantee on reliability.
@@AndyKruseChannel Thanks. makes sense and having a six gauge cluster makes it look neat and tidy. If you really wanted the race look I guess you could have gone for the center mounted gauge on top of the dash instead, but then it wouldn't be a big change from what you already had installed :)
Nice upgrade. I’m thinking of putting a small tach in the dash of my 68 cougar where the clock is supposed to be. At the moment there is nothing there so it would be a good upgrade. I like how you did the wire harness, that would be a good idea even on a stock cluster, I know some of my stock connectors aren’t in that good of shape. Did you put normal bulbs in or LEDs?
I think you're right, wiring up the stock dash in a similar manor might be helpful.
I stuck with the bulbs that came with the new gauges for now, figured I'd upgrade them down the road. :)
Nice content and good conversion to modern. I’m not sure what my 72 Ford oil pressure should be since it is a light only. I’m curious. I can say the 351W HO with GT40P heads in my Ski Nautique has always had high pressure of 50-70+, I assume it has a high volume, high pressure oil pump because it is the HO model and it is in a ski tow boat, the cam profile is basically the same as the Ford Lightning F150 engine came with.
Yeah, I figure my 289 is done and that oil pressure is the tell tale sign that she needs to be rebuilt. My new 347 sits around 50 psi, so at least I know that the gauge wasn't bad. :)
Hi ! Nice upgrade ! Do you have the réf of your steering wheel please ?
Not sure what "ref" means, but I purchases it from CJ Pony Parts (part number STW111KA1S). :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Thanks you ! That’s what I was looking for :)
Hi again Andy !
Thanks for the advice, I am waiting mine !
I have another question, I plane to change my tires because it’s way too big and I just scratch a fenders…
Front : 235/60/15
Rear : 255/60/15
Can you help me too choose the right one please ?
@@xXRPZXx I had 225/60/15, all four, on my last Mustang and I think they looked fantastic. However, part of that was because of the backspacing (offset) that my wheels had, which moves the tire out a little more over the factory wheels. Those wheels had a 3.75" backspacing (-6mm offset) and I loved it. My current car has 225/50/16 with a 4" backspacing (0mm offset) and I don't think it looks as good as the other ones. I'm not liking the larger wheels this time around and I kind of wish I could go back to that size I had on my previous Mustang.
You already have 15 wheels, which I think is better as I feel that classic cars look better with taller-looking tires (more sidewall, not thin tires on current cars).
Great stuff Andy. Being a novice to this car fixin stuff I appreciate your videos. Even the ones where you make a mistake and future Andy makes an appearance and fills us in on what just went wrong. Haha. Quick question. My speedometer is not working and I tried to get the wire off of the cluster to inspect but I couldn't do it. I didn't want to break it so I stopped trying. (Even though it might already be shot). How does it come off? Do I twist and pull, do I use a mini adjustable wrench..etc? Thanks
Thanks for the feedback!
The speedo cable is threaded, so there's no need to pull, just unscrew it. If the nut on the cable is spinning, it may just be on there all the way and so it will take several turns. If the nut is not spinning, the previous owner either used a wrench to tighten it down, or they cross-threaded it. Try getting in there with a wrench to see if it will "break loose", then continue to unthread it. You may need to disconnect it from the Trans so you can feed the cable up into the dash and allow you to pull the cluster out further to get that wrench on it. If you break that nut loose and find it's cross-threaded, I'd buy a new speedo cable and run a Die over the threads on that speedometer (5/8-18 thread). Good luck!
Nice mod. Yea your oil seems pretty low for being cold. What's the warm idle pressure? I know mine is 40+ when cold.
It's really low. Time for a rebuild?
Andy were did you get the radio delete plate in the mustang place and thanks
I found it on Ebay. I had in my previous Mustang and the buyer of that car let me keep it because they wanted to put a radio in the car. So now I have it for this car. :)
what bulb sockets did you use. I am about to put the same setup in a friends car and all i need is the bulb sockets to start
I think they were 168, or something like that. The highbeam and blinkers are in a generic socket I purchased at my local auto parts store.
Wiring sucks to deal with I’m learning haha. My gas gauge is somehow tied into my fog light switch.
Could be worse, your hazard lights could somehow be wired so your battery drains every day. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel funny you mention that, I just got done chasing down a battery drain.
Do you have a wiring diagram for wires under dash?
I do, but it's in paper form, which I printed from a pic I found on Google. :)
I made this recent upgrade to my 66 mustang. Did you recalibrate the odometer to reflect the total mileage of the car? If so, how did you do it. Thanks.
Nah, I left it as it came. I did put a sticker on the back of the speedometer with the mileage that was on the original when I swapped it out. And, because I'm a nerd, I have a full spreadsheet of this build and it's documented when I swapped out the speedometer. :)
If you disconnect the speedo cable on the transmission side you will have more slack inside to connect to the speedo, did the same thing on my 65 except I used mechanical gauges, also did you go back with led lighting.
Yes, I thought about that, but I didn't want to jack up the car and go through that whole process to get some slack in the cable.
I'm using the regular bulbs for now, but I'll change to LEDs down the road. :)
you can up the oil pressure by putting in a high pressure oil pump. NOT high volume. i put one in mine when i built my 460 and i carry 70 lbs when cold and then 65 lbs when hot. with high pressure oil pump you dont have to get a 10 qt oil pan.
ok
What do you have to do with the Amp wires?
Nothing, you can tape them off and leave them, it won't affect anything. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel thank you.
Question: I'm gonna install a set of standalone gauges (RPM & Volt ), I'm wondering if I should put a fuse in line with the power source? What do you think?
It depends on where you get your power from. If you grabbing from a fused source already, then it's kind of redundant, but it's not likely to hurt anything. If you're pulling from an unfused source (like the battery, or maybe of the hot side of the starter solenoid), then I strongly recommend putting a fuse in line. :)
Nice install
Thanks 👍
Maybe next time try using a GPS speedometer. That's what I am planning on using for my 67 Camaro.
Maybe next time.
What color do they light up does anyone know ?
Just the regular white, I did not leave the colored lens on the bulbs. :)
What was the oil pressure problem?
Bearings need replaced.
Oh no. That's not good. I'm going to put in a set of electrical tripple guages. All my originals work, but they just give you an "idea" that things are working. I want more precise information. I have a 67. I wonder if they make guages to fit in my cluster like you did yours......🤔
My oil pressure reads 50+ when cold drops to 30 when hot. Water temp reads 190 idling
Yeah, I think my motor is done.