Nice job. There is a PWM version of this fan that has the 4 pin connector out of the box. I found out the hard way by ordering 2 PWMs when. I need the FLX for my TP-Link switch.
Hi Paul! Greetings from Khabarovsk! I did the same procedure on various cisco devices. But I didn't cut any wires, just move some pins in right positions, just like you in the end of the video.
Like most homelab projects, "Didn't think of that at the time, but it works so fuck it" He did at least blow out the metal debris, I recon it will be perfectly good
I thought the ones I ordered were the matching ones, but turned out they weren't. Either way, they can run at full speed all the time since they're quiet enough.
@@TallPaulTech but it has a much lower CFM too, monitor the temperature, as you may have a cooling deficiency. A normal fan has an average of 15CFM, the Noctua has 5.5CFM
For the record you can usually just carve the alignment key off a 3-pin fan header (dremel, file, knife, even sandpaper will do) on the yellow side and plug it into a 4 pin socket. No rewiring needed.
because you don't need to rewire them. They will go over the existing 4 pin port and you just won't have speed control it will run full speed all the time.
If you had poked the holes in the first place you could likely have changed the head without connecting any cables. Should work just as well like this but worth noting for the future
TH-cam is getting worse. That comment of yours was in the 'held for review' because it was apparently bad or nasty or some shit. It baffles me how so much soy got to be in charge of so much these days.
Hi Paul, hope to see updates if your mod is stable even in full sommer time. In what kind of highest ambient temperature you expect for the switch to work? I am hitting 104°F /40°C here and it got very noisy. Hope to see more of your content. Take care
"Why didn't you do this?", "Why didn't you do that?"... Why don't go you and fuck yourselves, huh?... how about that?
Because everyone thinks they are an expert in all fields these days.
I enjoyed the video Paul thanks!
I'm a *big fan* of this mod
I just did this to an old HP 5120 switch I have. It reduced the noise from 65 dB to 35 dB, a huge difference.
The plug which came with the fans would have just slotted onto the first three pins of the boards headers. Fourth pin is optional
Nice job. There is a PWM version of this fan that has the 4 pin connector out of the box. I found out the hard way by ordering 2 PWMs when. I need the FLX for my TP-Link switch.
That's what I thought I was getting, but apparently not
Hi Paul! Greetings from Khabarovsk! I did the same procedure on various cisco devices. But I didn't cut any wires, just move some pins in right positions, just like you in the end of the video.
Why didn't you use included anti-vibration rubber thingies instead of the screws (and drilling, and metal debris inside the case, etc.)?
Like most homelab projects, "Didn't think of that at the time, but it works so fuck it"
He did at least blow out the metal debris, I recon it will be perfectly good
Because the grey case that goes over them shears them off, genius. I tried.
Why not use the 40mm PWM fans from noctua? Then you don't need to transfer the wires
I thought the ones I ordered were the matching ones, but turned out they weren't. Either way, they can run at full speed all the time since they're quiet enough.
@@TallPaulTech but it has a much lower CFM too, monitor the temperature, as you may have a cooling deficiency. A normal fan has an average of 15CFM, the Noctua has 5.5CFM
For the record you can usually just carve the alignment key off a 3-pin fan header (dremel, file, knife, even sandpaper will do) on the yellow side and plug it into a 4 pin socket. No rewiring needed.
Nice, looking to replace the fans in my Ruijie Reyee switches
Does this mod even have the same air pressure as the older fans? Was there a baseline of this switch at 100% load?
Trev wants to see more electronics hackery! She's pretty rough using scotch locks, lol. Good enough for Australia as Dave Jones says.
I might just have to do that
Oh no, why u didn't just unclip pins from old fan plastic connector and clip back from new one
old scotchlocks to the rescue
scotchies!
Thanks for showing pinouts, other videos omit that part
because you don't need to rewire them. They will go over the existing 4 pin port and you just won't have speed control it will run full speed all the time.
If you had poked the holes in the first place you could likely have changed the head without connecting any cables. Should work just as well like this but worth noting for the future
TH-cam is getting worse. That comment of yours was in the 'held for review' because it was apparently bad or nasty or some shit. It baffles me how so much soy got to be in charge of so much these days.
Hi Paul, hope to see updates if your mod is stable even in full sommer time. In what kind of highest ambient temperature you expect for the switch to work? I am hitting 104°F /40°C here and it got very noisy.
Hope to see more of your content.
Take care
Thanks for your video , but now you have 3 times less air flow , Aruba use this fan because it need this air flow .
only if you're using all ports at full speed
for home you might use 16-20 so it's fine
What's the sfp modern do
I think you have your title wrong... Why would you replace a quiet fan?!?!? 😂🤣
You got me! I love things to be technically correct, and I failed on that one.
dead fans...very quiet. :D
By any chance what voltage are you using and is it a 3 pin?
The fans are Noctua NF-A4x20 (40mm x 20mm).
The voltage is in the specification of the fan model :- 5VDC, 5000RPM.