So today I got a mower of ours that wouldn’t start to finally start after clearing out the fuel jet. This was my first ever service on a small engine and I am so proud of myself ! Thank you Home Garage for teaching me and everyone else how to service their engines for themselves ! ❤
I would check and make sure the intake is tight, there known too loosen up over time. Maybe look too see if the air filter base is warped. Yes definitely a compression test also. Look forward too figuring this out!
I had the same issue on my mower, I bought a new carb and with the new carb it ran worse so i rebuilt the old carb and doubled up the gaskets on the air filter cover and the problem was fixed. Dont know if it will fix your issue? But definitely fixed mine. It was a weird problem i was having. Hope ya had a awesome and safe 4th. It was my birthday.
I picked up an old craftsman mower last week with a quantum engine. It had a sheared flywheel key, so it wouldnt start at first. Once that was taken care of, I put a carb on it, tried to start it, but no go. The primer wasnt priming. I took the advice of some people on the forums and double gasketed the air intake and that fixed the primer issue perfectly, but now it has the same issue as this one in the video. Starts good, but needs repriming each time. I know the needle and seat arent perfect in the carb I put on it, but all original parts on a carb from 97 isnt too bad. 😅
The same thing happened to me with a quantum. I got it, tried to start it, and all it did was sputter and not start. I checked the flywheel key after checking over the whole engine and it was sheared. I replaced it and cleaned a carb for it (it was missing all the carb innards) and it started right up after putting a new intake gasket.
Definitely go for the compression test, not sure if the carb jets have been cleaned maybe by mixing in some seafoam or other carb cleanser will help. Im one that’s been sold on seafoam I use it as a maintenance on my car and now on my small engine equipment. Thanks for sharing info, great videos 👍
Had a similar problem could not figure it out. i sold it and told them you need to prime it every time and they were ok with that. However i recently had another one do the same thing and it turned out to be the main jet was partly restricted or in your case undersized slightly Cleaned it very good and the problem was fixed.
Could the engine valves be out of tolerance and causing this issue? If it is a possibility would love to see a video where you show that and a compression test because even tough it takes your time, this is so much fun and informative.
The intake pipe o-ring, crank seal and/or the headgasket could be leaking. Soapy water in a spray bottle can reveal the answer. Great job. Don't be afraid to take parts and rebuild the original carburetor.
i dumpster saved a walk behind weed wacker a couple of years age. I replaced the carb because the old one was too far gone. On occasion the carb would leak (overflow) after filling the tank. This would occur if you ran the tank dry. I discovered that the float would drop down far enough to catch on the main jet tube/shaft. I ended up smoothing off the edge of the tube/shaft with a file so that the float would not hang up on it anymore. I discovered this when dropping the bowl and noticing the float was stuck. If you are going to resell the mower - go the extra distance and fix the problem or make sure the buyer understands the problem.
I’ve always found that it takes more than a few minutes for Quantum engines to fully warm up to the point where they don’t need a slightly richer fuel mixture to start with one pull. That’s one reason why I prefer these primer bulb style carbs over the auto-choke ones. I find if I use the grass bag and it needs dumping after the first couple rows most Quantum auto-choke engines will not restart because they’re not fully warmed up yet and still need that little extra fuel to start, but the choke flap is wide open. I don’t have this problem with higher efficiency OHV engines, but Quantums are kind of thirsty and need that richer mixture for a little longer into the run cycle. Auto-choke makes them very hard to start on a cold fall day too, whereas with a primer system it’s just a matter of giving it a few extra pumps.
Check the engines compression & perhaps the valve clearance. Check the O ring & intake tube at the carburettors outlet flange for wear or damage, check that it isn't loose on the engine block near where the inlet valve is !
Compression or leak down test wouldn't hurt. I was trying to look for the valves, since a lot of these push mowers have OHV engines. I don't see the OHV design with this engine, so valve adjustments might be out of the question. I wonder how the head gasket looks. Make sure everything is torqued to spec as well. I'll see what decisions you make with this mower. Looking forward to a future video of this one.
Hey HG, definitely a head scratcher. I’d like to see a compression and a leak down test. I’m wondering if the air filter housing is warped allowing air to bypass the gasket? That puff of black smoke when you first fired it up may also be a sign of ring wear? If that’s the case the engine may not be generating enough negative pressure to draw the fuel at start up. Cheers for all you do! You and Bre are my go too for small engine higher learning.
I would look at the intake screws and make sure they are secured down all the way or that the intake doesn't have a crack in it. The screws are prone to coming loose (esp at the age the engine is) and could make for a hard re-start unless it's primed. Could also be a failing coil, in that the extra fuel manages to get ignited, then once it's going it keeps going. I don't think the air filter base is an issue, as that carb primed really well and if the base was warped likely wouldn't prime at all.
I'd say give it a compression test just to see where you're at with that. As far as the seals and rings probably let them be and just run it as is. But it's your machine so you can do whatever you want 😊
I know what you are talking about, lmfao. I have one that I have been dealing with for 15 months, and I still haven't figured it out. It's making me really question my abilities.
I would do a compression and maybe a leakdown test. Then evaluate. I wouldn't put much more money into it. It stats well cold, and starts well hot if primed. I think it's perfectly usable as it is. You may not be able to sell it for as much as one in perfect condition, but I doubt you'd get any additional expenditure on it out of it at sale time.
When I buy those cheap kits, I just keep those plugs around and save them for testing so that I don't mess up a good plug, or have to rely on one that is unknown.
Before I swapped the Kawasaki to the Snapper I'd just prime the Briggs and go each time. No biggie but the Kawasaki did a lot better trhan THAT Briggs. Happy weekend
Many below have suspected that the primer isn't working because of a warped air box. Can't be that because he clearly filmed a good geyser of gas when priming. IMHO, a working primer based Quantum starts more reliably than the auto choke system. The engine sounds good (like a Quantum should) and restarts after priming. That, to me, would rule out compression and coil. Thus, like HG, I am puzzled.
I'm with you, I like a simple primer bulb versus an auto choke system. I can't remember if there's a second repair video on this one, but we'll find out soon enough
A bit baffled. I'll be staying tuned. I'm working on a Briggs with plastic carburetor with fuel leak. Needle looks good. How do you adjust float level? I tried tweaking the plastic float but it bounces back. Any suggestions?
unfortunately I don't think you can tweak it. Also have you considered getting a new needle then? The seat in the plastic carb is metal and the needle is the part that has the rubber on it the tip.
@@HomeGaragechannel , thank you, I think you are right. Going to double check for obstruction in the seat area and then order a new needle if necessary.
have you confirmed fuel flow at the bowl? Turn off fuel, take off the bowl, then while keeping the float in the up position, turn on the fuel and then release the bowl and observe the fuel flow from the needle.
Pull the muffler off and try the test again. Maybe a clogged muffler. If not then, I believe there is a significant amount of water or gasolinein the engine oil That's what's causing it to not start right afterward it's either water inside the engine oil or fuel inside the engine oil.You're going to have to do ia dump out into a glass jar to see if it's true. Engine flush to find out also if that doesn't happen to work you may have an air leak in the carburetor plastic intake tube it's that plastic tube that connects to the carburetor. Hopefully it's just loose and you can just tighten it and it doesn't have a hairline crack. Check with bubble spray. Not to worry. Clean the crack with acetone then make a paste of baking soda mixed with Krazy glue and it should fix Try the bubble spray air leak test in the pickup tube first since it's less labor intensive then dump the oil and inspect for water.
Love your channel. Can u help with an issue please? I hit a stone and the mower stopped. I've checked both keyway which are intact, the blade is straight, yet the mower just will not start. Still feels thw same pulling the chord.. I'm at a loss
that's quite the situation. Since you've checked the blade and the flywheel key and have said nothing is wrong with them, then I'd go thru the basics. Use some starting fluid in the carb and see if it'll run for a second.
Give it another try whch includes compression test, then it that is good, look for air leaks. The engine sounds good and should be given the beneft of the doubt. 🎲
It's hard to say without knowing what your margins are. I would probably leave it. Most people wouldn't even notice that. It would be a pain in the butt, but probably wouldn't be that expensive to fix. It just depends on how deep you want to go.
I have Honda Troy built lawnmower with front wheel drive and I cleaned carburetor but the only problem I have is to spray the carburetor so it will start and once started runs good so what is the problem.
what kind of priming system does it have? Does it have the automatic choke system or the lever on top of the air box that you have move to get it to start?
It’s sad that the average Joe does nothing more than fill it up with gas when it runs out. That’s the height of their maintenance never mind taking tires off to lube them.
What does it mean when the oil in a Troy built blow comes out straight black after I did a oil change on it and before I did it it was still black and the oil was like a month old only and the blower won’t start?
when doing the first oil change was the engine hot or cold. If It wasn't hot, then the bottom of the engine would have had a lot of the heavier particles at the bottom. When you add new oil to it, it'll contaminate it and make it black again. If the oil comes out black, I would do a flush on it to help get out all the heavier bits.
@@HomeGaragechannel the engine was hot and also it’s hard to start. I think I’m might’ve blown the engine. Also is it like a way I can send you a video of how hard is it to start on socials or Facebook?
If yo run a compression test and it is low then you have to get serious and tear it down costing a lot of money. I'd sell it the way it is. Not a big deal to prime it when hot as long as it mows the lawn.
Honestly... after 20 years of working on small engines, I stay away from clone carbs as much as I can. Those damn things gave me so much trouble over the years that I´d rather clean a hacked up original carb 1000 times than installing a clone. As a last resort, ok, but that´s all...
you are correct, if someone else is willing to fork over the money for an OEM carb or all the time you'll need to clean the original one, I'd go for it too. Unfortunately 99% of my customers are my coworkers and I know how much they make, not much.
hey im back again my other youtube account got deleted and i have been getting some yellow grass that looks bad do you have any idea on how to like get my grass back in shape?
I would just sell it. Everything works. If a customer can’t Ben over to prime it. Than he or she needs a automatic start mower lololol😮😮 time is money 💰
I don’t speak for everyone, but I wouldn’t care about it not starting hot and having to prime it in order to get it to. Personally I don’t start it and stop it enough for it to be an issue if I had an engine like that for a mower
![[#2024MAMA] G-DRAGON - 무제(Untitled, 2014)+POWER+HOME SWEET HOME+뱅뱅뱅+FANTASTIC BABY | Mnet 241123 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Ox29z5Nf1Uk/mqdefault.jpg)
So today I got a mower of ours that wouldn’t start to finally start after clearing out the fuel jet. This was my first ever service on a small engine and I am so proud of myself ! Thank you Home Garage for teaching me and everyone else how to service their engines for themselves ! ❤
no problem and good work getting it going again
This is why we all watch your channel, you always cover every option, looking forward to the fix.
I appreciate that a lot!
Thank you for your video. Some of the mowers like this one are a slippery slope. Can’t wait to see what you do next
thank you very much Steven Pelino
I would check and make sure the intake is tight, there known too loosen up over time. Maybe look too see if the air filter base is warped. Yes definitely a compression test also. Look forward too figuring this out!
thank you !
Wow I wasn't expecting that I thought I would get fixed thank you for the video
it could have turned out better but it was better Than before the fix so I'll take it.
Fantastic 🎉
Thanks 🤗
I had the same issue on my mower, I bought a new carb and with the new carb it ran worse so i rebuilt the old carb and doubled up the gaskets on the air filter cover and the problem was fixed. Dont know if it will fix your issue? But definitely fixed mine. It was a weird problem i was having. Hope ya had a awesome and safe 4th. It was my birthday.
thank you and I appreciate that!
I will openly admit that working on the carburetors is my favourite part. Love rebuilding them. I tend to be very lucky with the carbs. :)
nice, my luck is kinda iffy
I picked up an old craftsman mower last week with a quantum engine. It had a sheared flywheel key, so it wouldnt start at first. Once that was taken care of, I put a carb on it, tried to start it, but no go. The primer wasnt priming. I took the advice of some people on the forums and double gasketed the air intake and that fixed the primer issue perfectly, but now it has the same issue as this one in the video. Starts good, but needs repriming each time. I know the needle and seat arent perfect in the carb I put on it, but all original parts on a carb from 97 isnt too bad. 😅
you did an excellent job fixing it up though!
The same thing happened to me with a quantum. I got it, tried to start it, and all it did was sputter and not start. I checked the flywheel key after checking over the whole engine and it was sheared. I replaced it and cleaned a carb for it (it was missing all the carb innards) and it started right up after putting a new intake gasket.
Definitely go for the compression test, not sure if the carb jets have been cleaned maybe by mixing in some seafoam or other carb cleanser will help. Im one that’s been sold on seafoam I use it as a maintenance on my car and now on my small engine equipment. Thanks for sharing info, great videos 👍
thank you for the advice!
Had a similar problem could not figure it out. i sold it and told them you need to prime it every time and they were ok with that. However i recently had another one do the same thing and it turned out to be the main jet was partly restricted or in your case undersized slightly
Cleaned it very good and the problem was fixed.
you know what... in this case you might be right about the jet.
Sell as is. Great work btw. Learnt a lot
thank you!
That looks like a Briggs 6.25. I've had really good luck with those. They always seem to come around. You just have to beat on them a little bit, lol.
agreed
Could the engine valves be out of tolerance and causing this issue? If it is a possibility would love to see a video where you show that and a compression test because even tough it takes your time, this is so much fun and informative.
thank you and yes I do believe so
Personality that's one way to put it 😆
I knew someone would get the joke!
I’ve seen that before. I’d love to see what you do to fix it!
I hope I can fix it, otherwise it'll have to go out the door this way.
The intake pipe o-ring, crank seal and/or the headgasket could be leaking. Soapy water in a spray bottle can reveal the answer. Great job. Don't be afraid to take parts and rebuild the original carburetor.
thank you and that's a great idea
i dumpster saved a walk behind weed wacker a couple of years age. I replaced the carb because the old one was too far gone. On occasion the carb would leak (overflow) after filling the tank. This would occur if you ran the tank dry. I discovered that the float would drop down far enough to catch on the main jet tube/shaft. I ended up smoothing off the edge of the tube/shaft with a file so that the float would not hang up on it anymore. I discovered this when dropping the bowl and noticing the float was stuck.
If you are going to resell the mower - go the extra distance and fix the problem or make sure the buyer understands the problem.
that's great advice, thank you for it.
I’ve always found that it takes more than a few minutes for Quantum engines to fully warm up to the point where they don’t need a slightly richer fuel mixture to start with one pull. That’s one reason why I prefer these primer bulb style carbs over the auto-choke ones. I find if I use the grass bag and it needs dumping after the first couple rows most Quantum auto-choke engines will not restart because they’re not fully warmed up yet and still need that little extra fuel to start, but the choke flap is wide open. I don’t have this problem with higher efficiency OHV engines, but Quantums are kind of thirsty and need that richer mixture for a little longer into the run cycle. Auto-choke makes them very hard to start on a cold fall day too, whereas with a primer system it’s just a matter of giving it a few extra pumps.
I like the way you explained the situation
I expect you will check the valve lash in your next video. 😂
you know, that's a great idea
hey HG!
yes..
Check the engines compression & perhaps the valve clearance.
Check the O ring & intake tube at the carburettors outlet flange for wear or damage, check that it isn't loose on the engine block near where the inlet valve is !
thank you Russell Booth
I'd fix it mate. Another good mower that hopefully can be properly fixed. I'm guessing valve adjustment or seating.
it could be, that or an air leak somewhere after the carb.
Great video 👍🙏👍🙏
Thank you very much!
Compression or leak down test wouldn't hurt. I was trying to look for the valves, since a lot of these push mowers have OHV engines. I don't see the OHV design with this engine, so valve adjustments might be out of the question. I wonder how the head gasket looks. Make sure everything is torqued to spec as well. I'll see what decisions you make with this mower. Looking forward to a future video of this one.
thank you Mark Meadows
Hey HG, definitely a head scratcher. I’d like to see a compression and a leak down test. I’m wondering if the air filter housing is warped allowing air to bypass the gasket?
That puff of black smoke when you first fired it up may also be a sign of ring wear? If that’s the case the engine may not be generating enough negative pressure to draw the fuel at start up.
Cheers for all you do! You and Bre are my go too for small engine higher learning.
thank you for all the ideas, we'll see what happens soon.
Yeah, take the time to figure out the issue and it will make the next easier.
you couldn't have said it any better! thank you
I would look at the intake screws and make sure they are secured down all the way or that the intake doesn't have a crack in it. The screws are prone to coming loose (esp at the age the engine is) and could make for a hard re-start unless it's primed. Could also be a failing coil, in that the extra fuel manages to get ignited, then once it's going it keeps going. I don't think the air filter base is an issue, as that carb primed really well and if the base was warped likely wouldn't prime at all.
all great tips, and well worth looking into
I would just do a compression test. This way, you will know. Not sure about going to gaskets, but THEN u can decide.👍
I appreciate that
Do the compression test, it's good content.
thank you knighthawk
I'd say give it a compression test just to see where you're at with that. As far as the seals and rings probably let them be and just run it as is. But it's your machine so you can do whatever you want 😊
thank you, I appreciate it.
I know what you are talking about, lmfao. I have one that I have been dealing with for 15 months, and I still haven't figured it out. It's making me really question my abilities.
I know right, at least you've got something that's not a simple carb cleaning though
I would do a compression and maybe a leakdown test. Then evaluate. I wouldn't put much more money into it. It stats well cold, and starts well hot if primed. I think it's perfectly usable as it is. You may not be able to sell it for as much as one in perfect condition, but I doubt you'd get any additional expenditure on it out of it at sale time.
I like the way you think!
is it good to apply grease to you mower wheels?
I think so, but once you start, you'll have to keep doing it, year after year. But it'll keep working great for that investment in Time.
When I buy those cheap kits, I just keep those plugs around and save them for testing so that I don't mess up a good plug, or have to rely on one that is unknown.
you and I are the same then
Before I swapped the Kawasaki to the Snapper I'd just prime the Briggs and go each time. No biggie but the Kawasaki did a lot better trhan THAT Briggs. Happy weekend
I like Kawasaki a lot, too bad it's a hard unit to find and swap in
Many below have suspected that the primer isn't working because of a warped air box. Can't be that because he clearly filmed a good geyser of gas when priming. IMHO, a working primer based Quantum starts more reliably than the auto choke system. The engine sounds good (like a Quantum should) and restarts after priming. That, to me, would rule out compression and coil. Thus, like HG, I am puzzled.
I'm with you, I like a simple primer bulb versus an auto choke system. I can't remember if there's a second repair video on this one, but we'll find out soon enough
A bit baffled. I'll be staying tuned.
I'm working on a Briggs with plastic carburetor with fuel leak. Needle looks good. How do you adjust float level? I tried tweaking the plastic float but it bounces back. Any suggestions?
unfortunately I don't think you can tweak it. Also have you considered getting a new needle then? The seat in the plastic carb is metal and the needle is the part that has the rubber on it the tip.
@@HomeGaragechannel , thank you, I think you are right. Going to double check for obstruction in the seat area and then order a new needle if necessary.
I bought a 40$ Chinese carb for my old simplicity tractor, a month later it doesn’t give any fuel to the engine, already cleaned it twice
have you confirmed fuel flow at the bowl? Turn off fuel, take off the bowl, then while keeping the float in the up position, turn on the fuel and then release the bowl and observe the fuel flow from the needle.
@@HomeGaragechannel there’s a drain screw in the bottom, it keeps flowing out
Pull the muffler off and try the test again. Maybe a clogged muffler.
If not then,
I believe there is a significant amount of water or gasolinein the engine oil That's what's causing it to not start right afterward it's either water inside the engine oil or fuel inside the engine oil.You're going to have to do ia dump out into a glass jar to see if it's true. Engine flush to find out also if that doesn't happen to work you may have an air leak in the carburetor plastic intake tube it's that plastic tube that connects to the carburetor. Hopefully it's just loose and you can just tighten it and it doesn't have a hairline crack. Check with bubble spray.
Not to worry. Clean the crack with acetone then make a paste of baking soda mixed with Krazy glue and it should fix
Try the bubble spray air leak test in the pickup tube first since it's less labor intensive then dump the oil and inspect for water.
thank you for all the tips!
Leave it 😊
thank you
Compression and leak test
thank you
Love your channel. Can u help with an issue please? I hit a stone and the mower stopped. I've checked both keyway which are intact, the blade is straight, yet the mower just will not start. Still feels thw same pulling the chord.. I'm at a loss
that's quite the situation. Since you've checked the blade and the flywheel key and have said nothing is wrong with them, then I'd go thru the basics. Use some starting fluid in the carb and see if it'll run for a second.
Give it another try whch includes compression test, then it that is good, look for air leaks. The engine sounds good and should be given the beneft of the doubt. 🎲
great advice and you are correct, sounds healthy
I would check the compression before I do anything else.
Thank you Dylan Smith
It's hard to say without knowing what your margins are. I would probably leave it. Most people wouldn't even notice that. It would be a pain in the butt, but probably wouldn't be that expensive to fix. It just depends on how deep you want to go.
I like the way you put it.
Would changing the fuel lines make sense in your experience as another attempt to fix?
in my experience , not really. I'd focus on the carb.
A leaky fuel line on this one is not easy as it looks because of the small area on the engine
yes you are correct
@@HomeGaragechannel 👍👍@ home garage
I have Honda Troy built lawnmower with front wheel drive and I cleaned carburetor but the only problem I have is to spray the carburetor so it will start and once started runs good so what is the problem.
what kind of priming system does it have? Does it have the automatic choke system or the lever on top of the air box that you have move to get it to start?
What makes a lawn mower spark in the middle of mowing
I'd have to see the spark you're talking about
It’s sad that the average Joe does nothing more than fill it up with gas when it runs out. That’s the height of their maintenance never mind taking tires off to lube them.
Well the woke are getting the shaft they deserve 😊
it's sad but true and the mowers have changed over time to accommodate it.
I need closure; I need a compression test.
agreed
What does it mean when the oil in a Troy built blow comes out straight black after I did a oil change on it and before I did it it was still black and the oil was like a month old only and the blower won’t start?
when doing the first oil change was the engine hot or cold. If It wasn't hot, then the bottom of the engine would have had a lot of the heavier particles at the bottom. When you add new oil to it, it'll contaminate it and make it black again. If the oil comes out black, I would do a flush on it to help get out all the heavier bits.
@@HomeGaragechannel the engine was hot and also it’s hard to start. I think I’m might’ve blown the engine. Also is it like a way I can send you a video of how hard is it to start on socials or Facebook?
If yo run a compression test and it is low then you have to get serious and tear it down costing a lot of money. I'd sell it the way it is. Not a big deal to prime it when hot as long as it mows the lawn.
best advice ever! Thank you
Mine is doing the same thing when it’s hot
sorry to hear that.
Honestly... after 20 years of working on small engines, I stay away from clone carbs as much as I can. Those damn things gave me so much trouble over the years that I´d rather clean a hacked up original carb 1000 times than installing a clone. As a last resort, ok, but that´s all...
you are correct, if someone else is willing to fork over the money for an OEM carb or all the time you'll need to clean the original one, I'd go for it too. Unfortunately 99% of my customers are my coworkers and I know how much they make, not much.
hey im back again my other youtube account got deleted and i have been getting some yellow grass that looks bad do you have any idea on how to like get my grass back in shape?
sure, how much rainfall are you getting in your area, how hot is I there, and how much are you watering your lawn?
@@HomeGaragechannel ok thank you so much!
Give it one more go pls
thank you!
I would just sell it. Everything works. If a customer can’t Ben over to prime it. Than he or she needs a automatic start mower lololol😮😮 time is money 💰
I like the way you put it!
fuel leak is kinda simpler then a oil leak.
you got that right
There is an air leak someplace where pulling more air than fuel
that's what it seem like, Thank you cptyler
I have a toro and I will not start what do I do
sure, put some fuel into the carbs throat and see it'll start for second. If so you have a carb problem.
@@HomeGaragechannel thanks
any ways I can contact you and send you photos
sure thing
@@HomeGaragechannel how
I don’t speak for everyone, but I wouldn’t care about it not starting hot and having to prime it in order to get it to. Personally I don’t start it and stop it enough for it to be an issue if I had an engine like that for a mower
you make a great point, most would probably not care about having to prime it