new carb, after market ones are now very affordable on amazon. I got one last year for 6.99 and included carb, air filter, pre-filter, fuel filter, spark plug and it worked great. if you saw my Fluffy the nest mower vid coming out on 6/15/2024
I use a brush attachment on a drill and really clean out the seat hole and then use a Tecumseh seal installer tool and it’s been working pretty good for me
A few videos ago, you fixed a black craftsman lawnmower. I commented that I had one exactly like it to fix up and I got around to getting it up and running good. I even used the same method to replace the battery for the key start as you did on that mower. I had rebuilt the carb and ended up with the same issue as in this video. The carb is pretty clean on mine, but for some reason the needle just doesnt want to seat right, so it leaks. I just added a fuel shutoff valve until the new carb I ordered arrives. As for the carb in this video, Id just replace it. I recently saved a carb in another mower that had ethanol damage, but that one cleaned up fairly well.
I've had similar issues when replacing the needle seat. I buy them as a set and change the needle too. I don't know how or why, but that usually seems to work. Maybe the shape of the needle is a little different or the opening in the seat is just a little different aftermarket vs OEM. But, if it were me, I'd take one look at that carb and the corrosion, and say "NOPE!" It'd go right into my scrap metal pile to be disposed of and a new one put on it. I also automatically replace the fuel line on any Quantums that I get now - they're usually the original and at the point of likely to cause a problem. A trick on those primer bases that's worked for me....use duct tape on the air base to seal the air channel along the bottom, leaving just the upper part (maybe 1/8") open. That will line up with the hole in the gasket, and allow the pulse of air to work correctly. I've found the warping of the airbox or the flattening of the raised edges on the channel usually are an issue towards the bottom of the carb, and then it re-seals again along the side.
I use the aluminum duct tape to seal the air channel, placing a hole in the upper part. It is much thinner than regular duct tape and has a better adhesive.
I tried to fix a Honda carb on a leaf mulcher but you had to choke it every time to crank it BUT it looked exactly like that carb or caked up worse. It ran fine after you choked it but the carb was really shot. And I gave away 8 running mowers but I was the reason they left. And a pressure washer as well. Sewwtums is overjoyed with the battery stuff. So be it. Happy weekend and Blessings
I'm going to vote new carb. You can save that one for a winter project and in the meantime the mower will be running and will put some cash in your pocket.
You know Mr HG to each his own I've been watching your show for a while and I do find that you buy new carburetors far too frequently when you could just buy a set of valve seats for about 8 bucks for 20 plus you want to go ahead and buy yourself the Tecumseh needle seat valve tool. I'll come back and add the part number and description on here but I've been doing that for quite some time and I've saved money. And I've also given a pretty good quality carburetor
on this engine, you can get to the valve spring and lifter area but it's behind a plate, located under the muffler. There is no adjusting them at least, not without taking the valve out and replacing them.
@@HomeGaragechannel I did see that and it looked like a mess so I left it alone since the mower works well enough. Thanks man for responding and your videos are quite helpful
I've had to many of the needle seats crumble from me trying to unscrew them out so i don't anymore or the screwdriver tip breaks off in it brass is soft metal
New carb for sure! I'm just more confused about that it's a primer type system but there's a thermostat arm on the muffler for the autochoke system. Hmmm
There is no thermostat arm on the muffler. The arm you are seeing is for the throttle. There is no choke flap for the carb. this is an older Briggs flathead engine that didn’t have an auto choke system. The newer OHV briggs engines have auto choke systems
I got a mower with missing parts only donar engine I had was auto choke. So I changed the primer engine to auto choke. There is a thermostatic spring on that engine. Looks like taller plate to hook auto choke spring on to behind carburetor mount
Is there a linkage missing on this mower from the carb to the muffler? That muffler has a bimetallic arm that moves forward when hot to serve as an auto choke..or at least my motor does and it looks really really similar...however if its the carb then its really not worth rebuild..new/aftermarket carbs are cheap enough that its not worth the time to rebuild.
You can get a clone card for this engine for about $8.And they seem to work perfectly fine. I've installed a ton of them on this engine and i've never had an issue with them. I would just go ahead and replace it. It's not worth the headache
That aluminum was so deteriorated that I'd go with a new carb.
you are correct and great choice
@@HomeGaragechannel I did with my last one after I broke the old one but it was shot anyway.
Looks like water was left in the bowl I'd clean it and put a new primer bulb on keep the different tire on it to and sale it
new carb, after market ones are now very affordable on amazon. I got one last year for 6.99 and included carb, air filter, pre-filter, fuel filter, spark plug and it worked great. if you saw my Fluffy the nest mower vid coming out on 6/15/2024
wow you got a great deal
I use a brush attachment on a drill and really clean out the seat hole and then use a Tecumseh seal installer tool and it’s been working pretty good for me
yes after watching my video, I forgot to do that! thank you!
A few videos ago, you fixed a black craftsman lawnmower. I commented that I had one exactly like it to fix up and I got around to getting it up and running good. I even used the same method to replace the battery for the key start as you did on that mower. I had rebuilt the carb and ended up with the same issue as in this video. The carb is pretty clean on mine, but for some reason the needle just doesnt want to seat right, so it leaks. I just added a fuel shutoff valve until the new carb I ordered arrives.
As for the carb in this video, Id just replace it. I recently saved a carb in another mower that had ethanol damage, but that one cleaned up fairly well.
nice work, and the fuel shut off valve was a great addition too.
R/R old needle seat if ya plan on using old carb or replace it wit a new one. You could also R/R gasket on air box, clean or replace air filter too.
you are correct. I still have the old one, and do plan on working it again.
I usually use the end of a drill bit and it works perfectly on those needle seat. Great video 🙏👍🙏👍
it only works "sometimes" for me, but maybe the install tool, would be better for me. Thank you!
@@HomeGaragechannel I’m also picking it up myself. 👍🙏👍🙏
I've had similar issues when replacing the needle seat. I buy them as a set and change the needle too. I don't know how or why, but that usually seems to work. Maybe the shape of the needle is a little different or the opening in the seat is just a little different aftermarket vs OEM. But, if it were me, I'd take one look at that carb and the corrosion, and say "NOPE!" It'd go right into my scrap metal pile to be disposed of and a new one put on it. I also automatically replace the fuel line on any Quantums that I get now - they're usually the original and at the point of likely to cause a problem.
A trick on those primer bases that's worked for me....use duct tape on the air base to seal the air channel along the bottom, leaving just the upper part (maybe 1/8") open. That will line up with the hole in the gasket, and allow the pulse of air to work correctly. I've found the warping of the airbox or the flattening of the raised edges on the channel usually are an issue towards the bottom of the carb, and then it re-seals again along the side.
you might be on to something there!
I use the aluminum duct tape to seal the air channel, placing a hole in the upper part. It is much thinner than regular duct tape and has a better adhesive.
@@garygrow8373 Thanks for the tip! I'll keep that in mind for future fixes
New carb all the way. That one was bitten by the Ethanol monster and/or zero fuel system maintenance.
agreed
I tried to fix a Honda carb on a leaf mulcher but you had to choke it every time to crank it BUT it looked exactly like that carb or caked up worse. It ran fine after you choked it but the carb was really shot. And I gave away 8 running mowers but I was the reason they left. And a pressure washer as well. Sewwtums is overjoyed with the battery stuff. So be it. Happy weekend and Blessings
the battery stuff has it's advantages
@@HomeGaragechannel Sure does here. Maybe nowhere else but does here.
I'm going to vote new carb. You can save that one for a winter project and in the meantime the mower will be running and will put some cash in your pocket.
agreed, into the winter project box
I had a very similar Troy Built 675 series. Just sold it today!
nice!
TY for Sharing
Thanks for watching!
New Carb
great choice
I would think it's worth putting a carburetor in it it's a nice mower thank you for the video
thank you and that's the plan
You know Mr HG to each his own I've been watching your show for a while and I do find that you buy new carburetors far too frequently when you could just buy a set of valve seats for about 8 bucks for 20 plus you want to go ahead and buy yourself the Tecumseh needle seat valve tool. I'll come back and add the part number and description on here but I've been doing that for quite some time and I've saved money. And I've also given a pretty good quality carburetor
thanks and you're right. But I do it as part of my advice to anyone that might be watching and who doesn't want to replace the seat.
Hello Home garage..I would go with a new carb 😊😊
Good choice and thank you!
It will not be easy but I would like to watch the rebuild :)
thank you !
New Carb time!
agreed
Yeah new carb for sure👍
great choice
can you bead blast carb to get crud off or will it cause damage or too much work. I vote new carb and deal with battery start
you can, but I don't have one. It would have to be walnut shell or plastic media and not sand
I have the same engine on my mower. How would I access the valves if I needed to adjust/check the valve lash?
on this engine, you can get to the valve spring and lifter area but it's behind a plate, located under the muffler. There is no adjusting them at least, not without taking the valve out and replacing them.
@@HomeGaragechannel I did see that and it looked like a mess so I left it alone since the mower works well enough. Thanks man for responding and your videos are quite helpful
what part number is that large bowl gasket please?
I believe the part number is 796610
I've had to many of the needle seats crumble from me trying to unscrew them out so i don't anymore or the screwdriver tip breaks off in it brass is soft metal
yes that can definitely happen
New carb for sure! I'm just more confused about that it's a primer type system but there's a thermostat arm on the muffler for the autochoke system. Hmmm
There is no thermostat arm on the muffler. The arm you are seeing is for the throttle. There is no choke flap for the carb. this is an older Briggs flathead engine that didn’t have an auto choke system. The newer OHV briggs engines have auto choke systems
no thermostat on this one, it's an internal governor that uses a spring to help set engine speed.
I got a mower with missing parts only donar engine I had was auto choke. So I changed the primer engine to auto choke. There is a thermostatic spring on that engine. Looks like taller plate to hook auto choke spring on to behind carburetor mount
I use the tecumseh tool for installing the seat
Order a new one, it’s toast. What is the solution you spray on the engine to get it clean so good? Thx.
I'm using Super Heavy Duty Degreaser from Harbor Freight at a high concentration
@@HomeGaragechannel
Thanks
no problem
The ignition coil did not look very well, too. or is this the safety brake combined in?
they looked fine to me, did you see something that I didn't?
@@HomeGaragechannel It seemed that the 2 sides of the coil are different spaced to the flywheel.
New carb!
thank you
Hi just a question what do you use to oil the foam air filters?
I just use WD40. But I have to oil it frequently
@@HomeGaragechannel Ok thank you
Hey, I was wondering what app you use to get your mowers?
I use FB marketplace and Craigslist
Is there a linkage missing on this mower from the carb to the muffler? That muffler has a bimetallic arm that moves forward when hot to serve as an auto choke..or at least my motor does and it looks really really similar...however if its the carb then its really not worth rebuild..new/aftermarket carbs are cheap enough that its not worth the time to rebuild.
not on this model, it depends on what kind of choke system you have. The primer ones don't have the arm
@@HomeGaragechannel that makes sense as mine has no primer bulb
I would replace the carburetor. Fairly simple due to the corrosion of the main carb body.
great choice
You can get a clone card for this engine for about $8.And they seem to work perfectly fine. I've installed a ton of them on this engine and i've never had an issue with them. I would just go ahead and replace it. It's not worth the headache
that's the plan
I would just go ahead and order a new one, with the old one leaking that way, it's a danger and fire hazard.
great choice
You know you're buying the carb but if you have anything in the old storage shed for sure go back in !
LOL!!! yes Sir!
My vote is to try to rebuild it again.
thank you!
When I saw that carb, that's the first thing I would have replaced. That carb was pretty bad.
agreed sometimes it's just easier
I’ve found a lawnmower for free and I was checking the compression and it started 😂so I took it and it had free on it
great find!
I’m with @covishen get a new carb also look at the piston to see what it looks like for the life on it or do a compression test
great advice
Replace the carb. That carb looked pretty bad. I wasn't surprised when it started leaking.
great advice
4 cycle carburetors are almost impossible to rebuild.
Considering how corroded it is, maybe a new one would be wise.
thank you for the advice!
New carburetor for it
thank you
I would say new carb. Get that over with lol
Yep me too
That carb looks like the metal is flaking. I'd order a new one.
good idea
What’s clean
what do you mean?
What cleaning agent do you use?
at 6:28 fuel line looks like its split...
good eye, and yes there was a cut there, but it was only superficial, Not deep enough to worry about
Take your new parts out of the old carb and toss the carb away. Get a new carb and a new primer plate.
you got the right!
I'd order a carb with the air cleaner base and not waste time
thank you
I think you should order a new carburetor an add $30.00 to the coast of the mower to cover your lost in your time.😅
agreed
New carb time.
You know it!
New carb for sure. Old carb too far gone although you did a great job getting to look somewhat normal but it has deteriorated for too long. 🤥
you're absolutely right. I'm sure I could get the old one cleaned up, but it would take a lot of time.
Hey bro what's up? I say get a new carburetor
great choice!
I would buy a new carb.
great choice
if it was me i’d order a new carb…. sometimes we have bite the bullet and take our own advice
great advice
What kind of person would put gold paint on a lawn mower? What are they a gangster?
LOL!!.. I know right
Order new one
good choice
Buy a new carburetor.
thank you!
noofense but worst push mowers ever made im guessing the carb is made out of plastic
on this one, no, this one has a metal carb.
Order a new carburetor
great choice