Just a heads up for those watching this video. The Non-ABS model of the VFR does not have the right side bleed valve. This is only for ABS equipped VFR's. This is also confirmed in parts diagrams. The difference in bleeding the brakes is that you follow the same process, but obviously don't have that right side bleed nipple to bleed fluid through. You just go straight to the rear brake and bleed from there instead. Otherwise great video. Though, I think I would be concerned if I had that much travel in the front brake lever. Looks to me that you might have some seized or very stuck pistons in the front brake calipers. Having recently done a full service of all calipers on my vfr with new seals and proper grease on the caliper seals, and new brake fluid, the front brake lever is very firm and a lot of feel. 2 finger braking and not much movement at all from the lever. I wouldn't have half the travel you show when you use one finger to pull in the brake lever. Though, this might be different for ABS equipped VFR800's. Please take this as just an observation from watching your video, which is very good and informative.. My point being in fact that my brake lever was a bit like yours in the video, a lot of travel. When I took my brake calipers apart, I found that 1 piston on the left was very slow moving, whilst 2 pistons on the right front caliper were barely moving. Though braking was OK.. after the full service, it is now outstanding..
I was only up to the wife’s steel toe cap slippers/trolly jack incident when I left the message thinking that’s straight forward. Having seen on from that , I’m thinking I’d need to watch it again a few times to understand what the hell bleeds what! Why don’t you come and do mine so you can practice it again 😁
Kev : Top Man !!! By far, one of the most outstanding procedural videos that I've encountered on TH-cam. Acquired a 2002 VFR800A ABS VTEC, about three weeks ago. 44,777 miles. The only known maintenance was an oil & filter change at 39,188. It's never been down on it's sides (knock wood !), so it looks good (Italian Red), but it needs everything. We've so far done new Dunlop RoadSmart 4s; Honda filter & Mobil 1 10w/40 4T; Coolant system flush, then new Engine Ice; new Galfer semi-metallic pads front & rear. The pads are bedding in, but a spongey front lever, so a bleeding party is in the supplies & scheduling process. Not sure we'd attempt if not for your guidance. And then on & on until the bike meets & exceeds USAF maintenance standards. I've watched quite a few of your other VFR videos & am quite impressed with your production and technical value. An immeasurable contribution to the global "Viffer" community. Thanks very much, and keep "em coming. Best regards: TSgt Jeff Kennedy Vacaville, CA (USA)
I just recently started having an issue with the bike that was causing it to lock up the brakes. At first I thought it was the abs causing the problem as I disconnected all the electrical connections dealing with the abs and the problem went away for some time. However, recently the problem has come back again and I believe it's because the fluids never been changed and is causing pressure to build up in the system. Thanks to your video I have some kind of guide to doing this job.
I did this on my vfr's - horrendous, but it tends to be never done, so makes a huge difference. I suggest using PTFE seal tape on the bleed nips to stop air entering back in the system. Great video!
I have 2006 VFR800...Im in love with it...and Kev wuaghhhh has been terrific, enormous help to provide any type of maintenance and beyond...many many many thanls my friend, you wont believe how good your videos are...great grteat videos...well done, well explained, excellent video quality, youir wife is enormous help...you should be proud of her...i am...of your wife...
Fascinating! And very clear. I now understand why my local Honda dealer charges me $250US to replace the brake fluid. It's a big job! But your explanation is so thorough I think I can do it myself.
Awesome video. I daily an '04 VFR here in Tennessee and am about to rebuild the front master cylinder (lever had gotten really sticky/has a "stepped" feeling to it). Just finished watching this and taking notes, and I'm confident I can get the VFR bled correctly now. I've done a WR250R before but nothing with linked brakes, this was incredibly helpful!
Excelent video!! I was a bit worried to start changing the brake-fluid of my VFR because of the 'complexity' but now I feel confident to start the job. Thanx!!
Fantastic video, kev...... I've read the procedure in the service manual several times and the complexity was putting me off, your video clarified some of the steps for me and I now feel 100% confident about doing it myself :)
This is the second time I've followed your great videos the first was the cam chain tensioner and found your clear instructions very useful and have saved me literally hundreds of pounds I'm sure Cheers
thank you!!! This is very good explanation. Service manual is mandatory for this operation if You don't have the know-how! I am just preparing my self for this operation as well on mine VFR. Very good braking system but of course, a little bit complicated since there are three independant braking systems on this bike.
Hi Kev great video followed your procedure but with a twist I used some clean clear pipe and done it old school I didn’t purge the old fluid first just flushed it through worked a treat. Excellent work 👍
Thanks ever so much Kev... turns out that I did a poor job afterall ( and was so proud of myslef at one point ). Theres a job for the weekend ! Love your VFR videos. Keep it up sir !
Thank you so much for this video! It helped me understand how to do this while using the service manual. Some things are different because I have a 1998 honda VFR 800. I purchased a Mityvac just for this job and it's still a pain! I had no idea what I was in for. I haven't completed it yet but 85% done. I was a Aircraft mechanic and worked on cars and I still found this tedious and confusing!
@@roadwarrior8560 Not really, they are predominantly the same. My VFR is an ABS model so has an additional proportioning valve for that reason, non-abs 6th Gen models are practically identical to the 5th Gen, with some minor differences but none that would cause the bleed procedure to be any different I don't believe!
As always, great job explaining everything Kev👍 I'm seriously contemplating on doing mine, thank God it's non-abs but I'm having recurring nightmares as when I swapped out my lines to SS I never got it right, and that was following the manual to a T! I gave up and took it to my local Honda shop. But it mightve been due to just having brand new lines. I do have a pneumatic power bleeder now so hopefully that will make it work more effectively and easier. Cheers Kev!
Thanks for the tutorial Kev. I’d love it if you did a video (or do you have one?) of rebuilding the brake calipers themselves, especially the left front. It looks pretty complicated.
Great video Kev, just about to tackle this for the first time. I have a pressure bleeder as opposed to a vacuum and will try and use that. They are ace for cars but havent used it on a bike No one makes a cap to fit the rear reservoir so I will have to improvise with a universal cap but if it works it should hopefully make the job easier. I will just flush as oppose to empty although I will take the dirty fluid out the reservoir and use clean fluid to flush the lines ( i know you are not keen on this method). Still have to remove and orientate the calipers but i want to give them a good clean anyway. If it doesnt work I know i can revert to themethod you used. Thanks for all your videos, they are exceptional quality.
Cheers buddy! I also have a pressure bleeder and they are great for this job. One reason that you never see me use my pressure bleeder in my videos is because of the obvious compressor noise in the back ground! It should work great though! 👍🏻
Thank you Kev for making this video for us all, i shall be replacing all the brake cylinders on my Honda NT 700 VA at some point as i like to have the stainless steel type on my bikes. I shall look through the Haynes manual before i dive in to see if theres much diffrence between my bike and your VFR 800, i also have the same vacum pump thats in your video and yes they are worth there weight in gold.
Hi Kev, thanks for your videos, really helpful. About to start changing brake fluid on my VFR. What the advantage in draining the system fully before adding new fluid? Seems like more risk of getting air in the lines. Before seeing this video, I was planning to change the fluid using the method you show at the end but not draining fully.
Great video as always buddy. Can you tell me what size of clear pipe you used for bleeding ? 6mm, 8mm ? Oh ! I am guessing 2 litres of DOT 4 fluid from Halfords will suffice ?
Cheers pal, I'm not certain on the pipe diameter to be fair, if I had to guess it is 6mm, so long as it'll snug over the end of the bleed nipple then it'll suffice. 2 litres of fluid will be more than enough. 👍🤓
This is one job I need to do which I am too tight to pay a workshop to do plus I want to be sure it is actually done properly for obvious reasons. Could you post your link to the pressure pump? Many thanks for making.
No problem here it is rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5575602299&toolid=10001&campid=5338707657&customid=&mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fitm%2FBrand-New-Hand-Held-Vacuum-Tester-and-Pump-Brake-Bleeder-Kit-Cars-Motorcycles%2F263369099003%3Fepid%3D6011070880%26hash%3Ditem3d520586fb%3Ag%3AOr0AAMXQZ7dTlqXs
Congratulations! It's a really good work that you have shown here! This brake system is a bit more complex than regular bikes. My VFR had a previous bad owner and I bled a chocolate kind of fluid when I did the first brake fluid change. I just have one comment about completely drying the brake lines because this allow air to enter the system. I am used to not letting any air into the hydraulic lines, what I do is drain and clean the reservoir containers and fill them with fresh fluid and then purge the system until clean fresh fluid comes out of the screw bleeders, this way it prevents air + moisture from entering the system and also makes bleeding a lot easier. Keeping moisture out of the lines makes the fluid last a bit longer. Do you bleed this way to get all the old fluid out? I don't think this is that effective because all the lines and cavities are kept wet with the old brake fluid. Keep the good work! Thanks for the video.
I did it that way as that’s the way it states in the genuine manual. To be honest I do this to my cars to a degree also, there’s many different methods and tools to employ for this task, whatever you find best and works for you! 👌🏻
Love the videos Kev. Bought a VFR this year myself and these have been really helpful. Could you add a new link to the tool please? As the old one doesn’t seem to work. Thanks
Bit of advice If you do this while you're doing a chain and sprocket getting access to all the bolts on the rear caliper is pretty easy. My VFR's fronts would lock up after a few uses when I first bought it. turned out there was some solidified brake fluid in the front brake master on the handlebars in a pin hole breather at the bottom of the reservoir got the bike for a steal though $700+a 82 CB750 that I paid $750 for
Yes absolutely, you can use it to refill, in fact that’s what the factory service manual recommends. I just wanted to show that it can be done without it for those that don’t want to buy one. 👌🏻
Hi Kev - just one little question regarding stage two. Could you please list the procedure like 1., 2., 3., I am a bit confused and not a logical thinker, but as I understand it: The assistant pumps the brake pedal five times and hold it down and the secondary master cylinder gets pushed out. Then you push the secondary master cylinder in the caliper, but do you at this point open the 10mm valve or is it already open. And by the way - thank for your brilliant tutorials, Kev.
No worries mate, you are using the rear pedal to push fluid to the secondary master cylinder, you then use the secondary master cylinder to push it up to the bleed nipple, so as follows - 1. Pump pedal 5 times to push fluid to the SMC. 2. Push in the SMC with your fingers. 3. Open bleed nipple. 4. Close nipple. 5. Repeat process if necessary.
Hi Kev, great and very informative videos to learn how to reapair and mantain our beloved VFR. I´ve have a question for you, my front brakes gets stuck, my front rotors get too hot, fortunately i was a short distance from home, so the question is: What problem do i have on my bike, ABS? Thanks in advance for your videos and answer.
@@KevsShed just done the return journey and now the back calliper is smoking also and the front lever was almost solid while riding but softened after stopping for a couple mins when I got home
amazing video, just bought a 2004 and this is gonna be the 1st page of my service-bible. How many oil does it takes for the complete procedure? Thank you
Yes, absolutely, if you use a vacuum bleeding tool then you won't need anyone to assist. I did it the old fashioned way to demonstrate that it is possible to do as the factory manual tells you to use a vacuum bleeder. Not everyone has one, so wanted to show that it isn't 100% necessary to have one.
Top video Kev much appreciated, will give it a go after making a dogs dinner of it last time! Daft question, any reason not to use a one way valve rather than continually cracking bleed nipple?
Absolutely no reason, I decided to do it that way to kind of demonstrate it using the method that everybody can do without needing to buy any tools. 👍🏻
Very helpful video Kev, thank you. I was pulling my hair out trying to decipher how to bleed the rear brakes from the Haynes workshop manual! A good point made by @mattlee8247 below too, as my VFR 800 is also a non-ABS model, and I have spent a fair bit of time in the recent past trying to find the right hand side bleed valve, only to discover of course that it doesn't exist on non-ABS braking systems.
Brilliant video! Do you think if this method will work on a CBF 600SA 2010 (PC43) with linked brakes? It's got a system where the rear brake pedal also operates the middle cylinder on the right-front brake caliper.
Hi, I would like to ask you if it is necessary to use the rear pedal to push fluid to the secondary master cylinder (SMC) and then push in the SMC with fingers to transport the fluid to the proportional control valve. (When I use the air bleed tool) Thanks (great videos)
I appreciate the procedural video but I can’t understand why you’d want to pull air into the entire system before adding and bleeding with fresh fluid. Seems like you made the jobs much harder for yourself instead of just flushing through new fluid to wash away the old in a sense. If I am not replacing lines, servicing calipers, or rebuilding master cylinders, I would just flush in fresh fluid to remove contaminants without introducing any air I need to flush later. Just my $0.02 I guess. Good tips on bleeding the rear in particular by moving the caliper
Hi Kev, I was thinking about selling my Japanese Mistress (the VFR) but your set of how to videos has made me fall back in love with her. Many thanks for your time and effort, Please keep them coming. p.s. Did you once have a business repairing Morris minors ?
Thanks for the kind words buddy. It’s been a while since I worked on a Morris Minor but to answer your question, I never had a business repairing them 👍🏻
3 หลายเดือนก่อน
Can this entire bleeding process be done entirely using the hand vacuum pump if I don't have a glamorous assistant ???
Hi Kev and thx for all the great vfr videos,they are really good. I have a question about the bleed process. I have ordered a vacuum tool similar to the one you used and want to try this myself. If using a vacuum tool,do i still need to take off the front left caliper and manipulate the secondary sylinder when bleeding the left 10mm nipple and also the rear circuit,or will the vacuum tool pull fluid through when holding the rear brake down? Hope i made myself understood mate. English is not my first language 🤣
Hello there, planning to do the whole process on my own using a vacuum pump For the second part (refilling the system) can I just proceed with the vacuum bleeding in the displayed order without having to flip the rear caliper and remove the front left one to put it at 15º from horizontal or is there a risk that the air bubbles stay trapped inside calipers even with the vacuuming if calipers stay at their normal positions ? Thanks by advance ✌🏻
Is it easier to bleed the system using a pressure bleeder as the one you used when draining the system? I got of those bleeder tools you connect to the compressor.
Yeah it should be as you don’t need anyone to assist. That’s the way it describes it in the manual. Just wanted to show that it is possible to do it the old fashioned way without the need for any special tools 👌🏻
Hi sorry that this is a stupid question but was the only reason for transferring to pumping the brakes to pressurize the system rather than the vacuum for the second half just to show that it can be done and not that it's any easier. Just wanting to double check after your warning at the end.
Yes mate absolutely, The manual says that you must use some form of pressure bleeder and I often see people stating that it is impossible without a pressure bleeder. I therefore wanted to show that it was in fact possible without the use of any special tools and that a piece of hose and a jam jar will suffice! 👍🤓
@@KevsShed Thank you so much for all of your video's mate this vfr that I've bought is my second vehicle I've owned after my A2 licence so I've never worked on anything before Your guides show that it's a lot easier than I ever imagined to work on your own bike. Thanks again.
Thanks for another great video! I imagine given the very low cost of the vacuum bleeder tool most people would use it for this job. With that in mind would you be able to make a video showing how to do this job using that tool rather than reverting back to the old fashioned method? As it gets a bit confusing for me when you switch methods as to what is required using the new vs old method.
Hi Kevin, I have rewatched this and it wasn't quite so scary as the first time around ;@). You use the vacuum pump to drain the brake system of old brake fluid, can you use the same vacuum pump to fill the system with fresh brake fluid, ie filling the brake reservoirs with fresh brake fluid and then drawing it through or do you need a pressure pump to do this? Reason I ask is I do not have an assistant and have to do it on my own. If I had an asst they would be pumping for sure! My bike is exactly the same as yours except non ABS. Also at last MOT there was an advisory that indicated fluctuating brake performance on front brakes (prior to my ownership) so I think the calliper seals need changing so with the system drained of fluid it would be wise to replace the piston seals otherwise not to do so will mean they will probably have to be done soon anyway meaning re-bleeding the brake system again? Hope all is working out for you. ATB.
@KevsShed At Stage 3, at 32:23, can you please better explain how the assistant is "pushing down on the secondary master cylinder" at the front ? Is the caliper still on the position from earlier ? Is there still the plate on which it's squeezing on ? When pressurizing the system using the rear brake pedal, what's happening ? The Secondary master cylinder is pressing on the plate and the the assistant is pushing the piston back in ? Thanks!
hi I am fron New Zealand and need to know if you can help I got 2018 vft x cross runner i like to install a center stand o the bike but honda don't have one. can you point me in the right direction please. love your work
Hello Kevs, I have honda vfr 800, 2011 but the clutch is very stiff and am not sure how can i adjust it , do u have any advice on that. I would appreciate gettinga response from you.
Nicely done Kev! I was going to ask if it was the same for an abs bike but then I realized it is an abs model you’ve got. I was going to try the same but was definitely not planning to empty out and introduce air into the system! I’m planning on just keep vacuuming until I’ve got fresh fluid. You’ve got balls of steel! Lol
Mike Kovacs either way you have you bleeding kit out and I prefer not to put new fluid in the system whilst the old stuff is in there still. I do get your point however but it is my preferred way 👍🏻
@@KevsShed I'm going to attempt this on my 2007 in the Spring. If I don't plan on introducing air into the system and ensure both brake reservoirs are topped off while bleeding, vacuuming until fresh fluid is visible should suffice, correct?
I reckon you could probably get away with buying one litre but it isn’t really expensive and you could always buy 2 litres and also change the clutch fluid with what’s left over! 👌🏻
You shouldn’t have to actuate the second master cylinder,you could pull the fluid through to the proportional valve and it should flow through easily 👍
Hi I have a 2002 vtec. Followed your video. Brilliant. But when I arrived at the bleed nipple right hand side ( sitting on the bike). There was no nipple ? What is your suggestion? I just followed the video ie rear caliper but missed out missing bleed nipple. Seems ok at the moment
No need to repeatedly crack the nipple open and close. Just the tubing going into a container with brake fluid is enough to prevent air and old fluid from going back inside the nipple. No need to bleed the system dry first either. That means a tool-less, one-man job of just replacing the old fluid in the reservoirs and repeatedly pumping the pedal/lever until new fluid and no bubbles come out from the nipple. I've successfully used this method on my R1 and on all the cars I've worked on, the same should apply to the VFR800's proportioning valve (if it doesn't, just repeatedly pump both front and rear brake levers, that should be plenty of pressure). Only caveat is it allows bottoming out of car brake pedals which could damage the master cylinder, so just don't bottom out the brake pedal when working on a car. Clutch pedals are fine to bottom out since they do so in normal operation, same thing with motorcycle clutch/brake levers.
Thanks for the tip however the process that I followed is 100% the way it is written in the Honda Factory manual, including bleeding the system dry first!! 👍🏻
I will also add that if you've ever done this task on the VFR800 it is nothing like anything you have ever bled before! Trust me when I say that I have done lots! Including my R1 incidentally! Pumping the rear brake pedal does nothing to the middle piston on the rear calliper as that is activated by the rotation of the left hand front calliper! Bleeding the linked brakes on a VFR is nothing even remotely like any of the cars or bikes that either you or I have worked on previously! This system is very different in its operation! Following any method other than the one stated by Honda in their own manual will most likely not be successful! 👍🤓
@@KevsShed Ha! My mistake. I assumed there was only one proportional control valve with the front and rear master cylinders joining together at the middle. From looking at the schemas it looks like you could technically bypass bleeding the proportional control valves altogether and just bleed at the center bleed valves if there's no air anywhere in-between. That would save the trouble of having to remove the second front master cylinder, tilt it and manually pump it while pumping the front brake. Then again, because it's an open moving part it will most likely have to be done anyway haha as those tend to accumulate tiny bubbles of air. Anyways thanks for the video! I thought pumping the front brake alone would be enough to transfer fluid to the center rear piston, but not when it's disconnected from the fork haha!
Cheers Mate, The centre rear piston is a bit of an oddity, it's operated by the left front rotating on its bracket which in turn squeezes the secondary master cylinder attached to it. Obviously this doesn't rotate unless the wheel is turning and the brakes are applies so it needs to be done manually! It's a right royal PITA but if my method is followed then it will usually turn out right! 👍
Great videos Kev - really enjoyable and informative! At the moment, I just need to turn my front brake banjo around 180 degrees (as it’s stopping the brake lever being lowered to a more comfortable angle). So, do I need to drain the whole system down? - or can I just drain the first line and master cylinder,spin the banjo over and then refill that single line? Thx!
Sorry Matt, I missed this comment before, to be honest, if you want to save yourself any hassle, I would simply loosen the banjo bolt a fraction, just enough for the banjo to turn but still with a little resistance. Then turn it to the direction you need it and then retighten the banjo. I reckon you'll get away without needing to bleed it. So long as you don't press the lever, I don't think it'll draw any air in. Good luck. Hopefully you'll get away with it and the lever will feel firm afterwards. If not then obviously you'll have to go through the process of bleeding the front of the system.
@@KevsShed Thanks Kev! Actually the lines are Hel braided ones and we’re quite newly fitted by the previous owner. So all new fluids etc. The banjo is an odd angle and hits the bar clamp - so I thought I’d be able to drain down, undo banjo and spin it 180 degrees.....as it happened not! It’s just too stiff to rotate. So, I refilled and bled the front.... What I did find was, with the bleeding kit I bought (like yours) the supplied black pipe ends did not fit on the nipples at all well. The plain clear tube alone was better. In the end, I got a firm enough brake lever through bleeding....but then made it much firmer again by fixing the lever pulled in to the bar with a strap. Loosening / retightening it again over a couple of days. This made a huge difference and obviously moved any last air bubbles up into the master cylinder. I’d recommend that as a ‘post bleed’ process based on my own limited experience.
@@sailmakerman Ok i have a couple of questions. 1st: What do you mean by rotating the banjo 180 degrees? You mean that you rotated the line so it is pointed upwards? I understand that this would give a lot more room for adjustability but wouldn't the length of the line be an issue? I myself thought of filing down the little thing on the fluid reservoir that stops the line from staying at a fixing position, so i can get a few degrees of adjustability. 2nd: What happens when you fix the lever pressed in? Does it force the air to go up to the fluid reservoir?
@@trantas4 I meant turn the Banjo over really. The pipe exited at an odd angle. In the end I did just what you thought of and filed a little bit off the little tag which gave me enough movement to lower the lever to a better angle.
Just to clarify - you could have used the same tool you used to initially drain the system during the final bleeding process? With no need for an assistant or depressing the levers at all?
One quick question. If the system is completely flushed doesn't that make it easy to press the brake caliper cylinders all the way in? That way you may be able to diagnose a stuck-rusty cylinder or any faults in the braking system. I'm asking because i'm planning on rebuilding all master cylinders and it would be a good opportunity to check them also.
@@KevsShed The thing is, it's my first bike so i'm not that good at knowing when something doesn't work properly. I think everything works fine but it's good to check every once in a while just to make sure.
Just got this kit but the right angles piece that fits over the nipple, (there are 3 of them, supposed to be different sizes) well anyway none of them fit tight on the vfr's bleed nipple, looks like they put 2 the same size in and one slightly smaller but still not small enough for the bikes bleed nipple.
If you can't get a tight fit on the nipple, then try and get screen washer tubing they come in different diameters of size , that's what l did and got a good fit onto my bikes brake nipples, also the tubing connected to my vac pump no problem you can get the tubing at halfords or any car parts supplier .cheers
Kev, is the rear proportioning valve (stage 4 of the operation) only on ABS models? Maybe I'm looking in the wrong place, but I can't seem to find the bleeder valve above the rear brake pedal. Thank you for all your great informational videos! 🍻
There are 2 valves under the seat on ABS models, on the non-ABS models there is only the one. If you have a non-ABS model then you won't find the unit that you are searching for. I really should have said that in the video but as I have an ABS model it really didn't occur to me at the time! 👍🤓
Pretty much although you won't have one of the bleed screws under the seat as it only has one proportioning valve because the FI didn't have ABS. other than that pretty much an identical process. 👌🤓
@@KevsShed I've got a manual for it so I'll have a look and compare. I've changed fluid on my RR which isn't abs and was a lot easier. This seems more involved. Thanks for the reply.
Hello Kevin, just saw your vid. Is there a way to just bleed the rear brake? I had to rebuild my rear master cylinder and have a dead pedal. Fronts work like a charm.
Absolutely mate, if you don't need to touch the fronts and you are happy with them, then simply start the process at Stage 2, approx 24:30 in the video! 👍🤓
Yes absolutely, I just wanted to demonstrate that it can be done without the use of any special tools as there is a common misconception that it can only be achieved with a vacuum pump. I just wanted to quash this falsehood!
![[MV] A leap of faith...ความเชื่อใจครั้งสุดท้าย (From "Petrichor the series")](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/U1piZH2CNXA/mqdefault.jpg)
Just a heads up for those watching this video. The Non-ABS model of the VFR does not have the right side bleed valve. This is only for ABS equipped VFR's. This is also confirmed in parts diagrams. The difference in bleeding the brakes is that you follow the same process, but obviously don't have that right side bleed nipple to bleed fluid through. You just go straight to the rear brake and bleed from there instead.
Otherwise great video. Though, I think I would be concerned if I had that much travel in the front brake lever. Looks to me that you might have some seized or very stuck pistons in the front brake calipers. Having recently done a full service of all calipers on my vfr with new seals and proper grease on the caliper seals, and new brake fluid, the front brake lever is very firm and a lot of feel. 2 finger braking and not much movement at all from the lever. I wouldn't have half the travel you show when you use one finger to pull in the brake lever. Though, this might be different for ABS equipped VFR800's.
Please take this as just an observation from watching your video, which is very good and informative.. My point being in fact that my brake lever was a bit like yours in the video, a lot of travel. When I took my brake calipers apart, I found that 1 piston on the left was very slow moving, whilst 2 pistons on the right front caliper were barely moving. Though braking was OK.. after the full service, it is now outstanding..
Every time you do one on the VFR it creates another must do job for me 👍🏻
😂
I was only up to the wife’s steel toe cap slippers/trolly jack incident when I left the message thinking that’s straight forward. Having seen on from that , I’m thinking I’d need to watch it again a few times to understand what the hell bleeds what! Why don’t you come and do mine so you can practice it again 😁
😂
Thank you for the video. Hello from Russia. They explained in great detail and clearly how to change the brake fluid in the combined brake system.
This is a insane amount of work just to bleed brakes to me Honda failed with this linked brake system
Kev : Top Man !!! By far, one of the most outstanding procedural videos that I've encountered on TH-cam. Acquired a 2002 VFR800A ABS VTEC, about three weeks ago. 44,777 miles.
The only known maintenance was an oil & filter change at 39,188. It's never been down on it's sides (knock wood !), so it looks good (Italian Red), but it needs everything. We've so far done new Dunlop RoadSmart 4s; Honda filter & Mobil 1 10w/40 4T; Coolant system flush, then new Engine Ice; new Galfer semi-metallic pads front & rear. The pads are bedding in, but a spongey front lever, so a bleeding party is in the supplies & scheduling process. Not sure we'd attempt if not for your guidance. And then on & on until the bike meets & exceeds USAF maintenance standards. I've watched quite a few of your other VFR videos & am quite impressed with your production and technical value. An immeasurable contribution to the global "Viffer" community. Thanks very much, and keep "em coming.
Best regards:
TSgt Jeff Kennedy
Vacaville, CA (USA)
Thanks man 👌🏻😎
I just recently started having an issue with the bike that was causing it to lock up the brakes. At first I thought it was the abs causing the problem as I disconnected all the electrical connections dealing with the abs and the problem went away for some time. However, recently the problem has come back again and I believe it's because the fluids never been changed and is causing pressure to build up in the system. Thanks to your video I have some kind of guide to doing this job.
I did this on my vfr's - horrendous, but it tends to be never done, so makes a huge difference. I suggest using PTFE seal tape on the bleed nips to stop air entering back in the system.
Great video!
Thank you for this video! I was able to accomplish the system fluid replacement and bleed with no problems at all. All Kevs videos are spot on!
Glad it helped 👌🤓
Thanks for producing this video Kev, its a very good guide that I am sure has served many folk well.... cheers
I have 2006 VFR800...Im in love with it...and Kev wuaghhhh has been terrific, enormous help to provide any type of maintenance and beyond...many many many thanls my friend, you wont believe how good your videos are...great grteat videos...well done, well explained, excellent video quality, youir wife is enormous help...you should be proud of her...i am...of your wife...
3 yrs later this was still helpful to me. So Thank you kindly sir.
Nice work sir...A friend of mine has the Blackbird with Dual Braking and always swears at how much of a pain it is...Ill point him at the video 👍
Cheers mate 👌🏻
Fascinating! And very clear. I now understand why my local Honda dealer charges me $250US to replace the brake fluid. It's a big job! But your explanation is so thorough I think I can do it myself.
Glad it helped
Awesome video. I daily an '04 VFR here in Tennessee and am about to rebuild the front master cylinder (lever had gotten really sticky/has a "stepped" feeling to it). Just finished watching this and taking notes, and I'm confident I can get the VFR bled correctly now. I've done a WR250R before but nothing with linked brakes, this was incredibly helpful!
Excelent video!! I was a bit worried to start changing the brake-fluid of my VFR because of the 'complexity' but now I feel confident to start the job. Thanx!!
Thanks
Fantastic video, kev...... I've read the procedure in the service manual several times and the complexity was putting me off, your video clarified some of the steps for me and I now feel 100% confident about doing it myself :)
This is the second time I've followed your great videos the first was the cam chain tensioner and found your clear instructions very useful and have saved me literally hundreds of pounds I'm sure
Cheers
Great to hear! Always pleases me when I have helped save somebody cash! 👌
thank you!!! This is very good explanation. Service manual is mandatory for this operation if You don't have the know-how! I am just preparing my self for this operation as well on mine VFR. Very good braking system but of course, a little bit complicated since there are three independant braking systems on this bike.
Hi Kev great video followed your procedure but with a twist I used some clean clear pipe and done it old school I didn’t purge the old fluid first just flushed it through worked a treat. Excellent work 👍
Yeah, that’s quite a popular way, I just wanted to follow the procedure in the manual. Good work 👌🏻
Thanks ever so much Kev... turns out that I did a poor job afterall ( and was so proud of myslef at one point ).
Theres a job for the weekend ! Love your VFR videos. Keep it up sir !
Cheers buddy 👍🏻
Thank you so much for this video! It helped me understand how to do this while using the service manual. Some things are different because I have a 1998 honda VFR 800. I purchased a Mityvac just for this job and it's still a pain! I had no idea what I was in for. I haven't completed it yet but 85% done. I was a Aircraft mechanic and worked on cars and I still found this tedious and confusing!
Just got it done on my 5th gen successfully with a combo of this great vid and the manual! Thanks a lot, hope you keep em' coming! :)
Nice one 👌🏻
The 5th Gen was the ultimate VFR and I am not just saying that coz I have one too.
@@GaryLaaks1 Haha!
Looks like the bleed nipples are set up a lot different on the 5th gen.
th-cam.com/video/_dYuuMqKxTg/w-d-xo.html
@@roadwarrior8560 Not really, they are predominantly the same. My VFR is an ABS model so has an additional proportioning valve for that reason, non-abs 6th Gen models are practically identical to the 5th Gen, with some minor differences but none that would cause the bleed procedure to be any different I don't believe!
As always, great job explaining everything Kev👍 I'm seriously contemplating on doing mine, thank God it's non-abs but I'm having recurring nightmares as when I swapped out my lines to SS I never got it right, and that was following the manual to a T! I gave up and took it to my local Honda shop. But it mightve been due to just having brand new lines. I do have a pneumatic power bleeder now so hopefully that will make it work more effectively and easier. Cheers Kev!
Thanks Kev just replaced secondary master cylinder piston as it was sticking this video helped a lot
Thank you! Just followed this and performed it...hoping it all worked correctly!
This is quite extensive and in depth!
It certainly is mate, I’ll probably have to do it all again very soon as I’m looking at braided hoses at the moment! 🤦🏻♂️
@@KevsShed have fun and good luck!
Outstanding video! I appreciate the "real time" format!
Glad you liked it! I try to do most of my videos in a real time scenario as much as possible.
Hi. Very good video. I will try it completely different than reading in the service manual. Thank you😀😀
Thanks for the tutorial Kev. I’d love it if you did a video (or do you have one?) of rebuilding the brake calipers themselves, especially the left front. It looks pretty complicated.
Great video Kev, just about to tackle this for the first time. I have a pressure bleeder as opposed to a vacuum and will try and use that. They are ace for cars but havent used it on a bike
No one makes a cap to fit the rear reservoir so I will have to improvise with a universal cap but if it works it should hopefully make the job easier. I will just flush as oppose to empty although I will take the dirty fluid out the reservoir and use clean fluid to flush the lines ( i know you are not keen on this method). Still have to remove and orientate the calipers but i want to give them a good clean anyway.
If it doesnt work I know i can revert to themethod you used. Thanks for all your videos, they are exceptional quality.
Cheers buddy! I also have a pressure bleeder and they are great for this job. One reason that you never see me use my pressure bleeder in my videos is because of the obvious compressor noise in the back ground! It should work great though! 👍🏻
Thank you Kev for making this video for us all, i shall be replacing all the brake cylinders on my Honda NT 700 VA at some point as i like to have the stainless steel type on my bikes. I shall look through the Haynes manual before i dive in to see if theres much diffrence between my bike and your VFR 800, i also have the same vacum pump thats in your video and yes they are worth there weight in gold.
Happy to hear it’s helped you buddy, that makes it all worthwhile 👍🏻
Thanks for your great vid Kev, I'd have been lost without your vid, I even managed it by myself tho it took a few hours.
Awesome dude, well done 👍🏻
Great video sir. Thankyou for taking the time to make this video. Please keep them coming on the vfr. Would this be the same on a 99 non abs?
I can’t be sure if it is the same as I haven’t done the job on the 5th Gen. I imagine it is similar though.
Hi Kev, thanks for your videos, really helpful.
About to start changing brake fluid on my VFR.
What the advantage in draining the system fully before adding new fluid? Seems like more risk of getting air in the lines.
Before seeing this video, I was planning to change the fluid using the method you show at the end but not draining fully.
I get your point, but the method demonstrated in the video is the method the official Honda manual describes. 👍🏻
Great video as always buddy.
Can you tell me what size of clear pipe you used for bleeding ? 6mm, 8mm ?
Oh ! I am guessing 2 litres of DOT 4 fluid from Halfords will suffice ?
Cheers pal, I'm not certain on the pipe diameter to be fair, if I had to guess it is 6mm, so long as it'll snug over the end of the bleed nipple then it'll suffice. 2 litres of fluid will be more than enough. 👍🤓
@@KevsShed Cheers bud 👍
Excellent explanation on the quirkier parts of this job.
Glad it was helpful!
@@KevsShed you're a legend. Just finished carrying it out. All good.
@@AD-mr6vd Cheers chap ;)
This is one job I need to do which I am too tight to pay a workshop to do plus I want to be sure it is actually done properly for obvious reasons. Could you post your link to the pressure pump? Many thanks for making.
No problem here it is
rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5575602299&toolid=10001&campid=5338707657&customid=&mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fitm%2FBrand-New-Hand-Held-Vacuum-Tester-and-Pump-Brake-Bleeder-Kit-Cars-Motorcycles%2F263369099003%3Fepid%3D6011070880%26hash%3Ditem3d520586fb%3Ag%3AOr0AAMXQZ7dTlqXs
Congratulations! It's a really good work that you have shown here! This brake system is a bit more complex than regular bikes. My VFR had a previous bad owner and I bled a chocolate kind of fluid when I did the first brake fluid change.
I just have one comment about completely drying the brake lines because this allow air to enter the system. I am used to not letting any air into the hydraulic lines, what I do is drain and clean the reservoir containers and fill them with fresh fluid and then purge the system until clean fresh fluid comes out of the screw bleeders, this way it prevents air + moisture from entering the system and also makes bleeding a lot easier. Keeping moisture out of the lines makes the fluid last a bit longer.
Do you bleed this way to get all the old fluid out? I don't think this is that effective because all the lines and cavities are kept wet with the old brake fluid.
Keep the good work! Thanks for the video.
I did it that way as that’s the way it states in the genuine manual. To be honest I do this to my cars to a degree also, there’s many different methods and tools to employ for this task, whatever you find best and works for you! 👌🏻
Thanks Kev you are a life saviour!!!
Love the videos Kev. Bought a VFR this year myself and these have been really helpful. Could you add a new link to the tool please? As the old one doesn’t seem to work.
Thanks
Thanks for letting me know, I have now updated it and here it is again especially for you mate! 👍 ebay.us/Ztzcuo
Bit of advice If you do this while you're doing a chain and sprocket getting access to all the bolts on the rear caliper is pretty easy.
My VFR's fronts would lock up after a few uses when I first bought it. turned out there was some solidified brake fluid in the front brake master on the handlebars in a pin hole breather at the bottom of the reservoir
got the bike for a steal though $700+a 82 CB750 that I paid $750 for
Yess!! Thx!
What If I use the vacuum pump to refill the lines?
Can I do the same way, like you removed the old fluids?
Yes absolutely, you can use it to refill, in fact that’s what the factory service manual recommends. I just wanted to show that it can be done without it for those that don’t want to buy one. 👌🏻
'Small tools', 'nipples' and 'cracking it off'?! Best vid I've seen in ages! 🤣👌👍
😁
Hi Kev - just one little question regarding stage two. Could you please list the procedure like 1., 2., 3., I am a bit confused and not a logical thinker, but as I understand it: The assistant pumps the brake pedal five times and hold it down and the secondary master cylinder gets pushed out. Then you push the secondary master cylinder in the caliper, but do you at this point open the 10mm valve or is it already open. And by the way - thank for your brilliant tutorials, Kev.
No worries mate, you are using the rear pedal to push fluid to the secondary master cylinder, you then use the secondary master cylinder to push it up to the bleed nipple, so as follows - 1. Pump pedal 5 times to push fluid to the SMC. 2. Push in the SMC with your fingers. 3. Open bleed nipple. 4. Close nipple. 5. Repeat process if necessary.
@@KevsShed Cheers Kev! Looking forward to your next videos on the VFR. Excellent job!
Hi Kev, great and very informative videos to learn how to reapair and mantain our beloved VFR.
I´ve have a question for you, my front brakes gets stuck, my front rotors get too hot, fortunately i was a short distance from home, so the question is: What problem do i have on my bike, ABS? Thanks in advance for your videos and answer.
Did this at the weekend , brakes worked great but on my way to work today front right calliper is sticking , 3 mile run and pads were smoking a little
If you have a sticking calliper then it may well pay to take the calliper off and give it a light refurb. New seals should restore its performance!
@@KevsShed just done the return journey and now the back calliper is smoking also and the front lever was almost solid while riding but softened after stopping for a couple mins when I got home
Awesome instructions! this was what i need. Thanks a bunch!
Glad you found it helpful 👌🏻
That was incredible!!!!!! Thanks so much
Great vid! Do you by any chance know how much the process differs with a VFR800Fi model?
Pretty much identical, except there won’t be an ABS module so you should only have one bleed nipple under the seat instead of two like I had 👍🏻
amazing video, just bought a 2004 and this is gonna be the 1st page of my service-bible. How many oil does it takes for the complete procedure?
Thank you
Not too much, if you buy a 1 litre bottle you will still have enough to do your clutch too, check out my other video for this too! 👌🏻
@@KevsShed yes I'm just doin' it :-D. That's the second step 'cause I'm pretty sure I'll find dark chocolate
Great video. While it is still quite a rigmarole, I feel more confident tackling it.
Is there a way to do this without help?
Yes, absolutely, if you use a vacuum bleeding tool then you won't need anyone to assist. I did it the old fashioned way to demonstrate that it is possible to do as the factory manual tells you to use a vacuum bleeder. Not everyone has one, so wanted to show that it isn't 100% necessary to have one.
@@KevsShed Thanks Kev!
Top video Kev much appreciated, will give it a go after making a dogs dinner of it last time! Daft question, any reason not to use a one way valve rather than continually cracking bleed nipple?
Absolutely no reason, I decided to do it that way to kind of demonstrate it using the method that everybody can do without needing to buy any tools. 👍🏻
So thankful for your videos is this the same on 5th gen
Pretty much identical except that the 5th Gen never got ABS so one of the proportioning valves under the seat will be missing. 👌😎
Very helpful video Kev, thank you. I was pulling my hair out trying to decipher how to bleed the rear brakes from the Haynes workshop manual!
A good point made by @mattlee8247 below too, as my VFR 800 is also a non-ABS model, and I have spent a fair bit of time in the recent past trying to find the right hand side bleed valve, only to discover of course that it doesn't exist on non-ABS braking systems.
Thanks Kev. Splendid video for sure! It sure would be nice if we were neighbors! I could learn a bunch from you. :-)
Any time! 👌🤓
Amazing video. it does now work better. Thank you
Brilliant video! Do you think if this method will work on a CBF 600SA 2010 (PC43) with linked brakes? It's got a system where the rear brake pedal also operates the middle cylinder on the right-front brake caliper.
I am not 100% certain but I imagine that the system is near identical 👍🏻
@@KevsShed Thank you!
Hi, I would like to ask you if it is necessary to use the rear pedal to push fluid
to the secondary master cylinder (SMC) and then push in the SMC with fingers
to transport the fluid to the proportional control valve. (When I use the air bleed tool)
Thanks
(great videos)
Yes, the air bleed tool in my experience doesn’t do a good job of filling the SMC with fluid so it tends to need a little bit of help, good luck.
I appreciate the procedural video but I can’t understand why you’d want to pull air into the entire system before adding and bleeding with fresh fluid. Seems like you made the jobs much harder for yourself instead of just flushing through new fluid to wash away the old in a sense. If I am not replacing lines, servicing calipers, or rebuilding master cylinders, I would just flush in fresh fluid to remove contaminants without introducing any air I need to flush later. Just my $0.02 I guess. Good tips on bleeding the rear in particular by moving the caliper
Great video, another winter job for me to do to mine
Thanks 👍
Hi Kev, I was thinking about selling my Japanese Mistress (the VFR) but your set of how to videos has made me fall back in love with her. Many thanks for your time and effort, Please keep them coming. p.s. Did you once have a business repairing Morris minors ?
Thanks for the kind words buddy. It’s been a while since I worked on a Morris Minor but to answer your question, I never had a business repairing them 👍🏻
Can this entire bleeding process be done entirely using the hand vacuum pump if I don't have a glamorous assistant ???
Could this be done with just a vacuum pump and a fluid flush rather than a drain and refill?
Yes.
you never get all of the old fluid out. with a flush
Hi Kev and thx for all the great vfr videos,they are really good. I have a question about the bleed process. I have ordered a vacuum tool similar to the one you used and want to try this myself. If using a vacuum tool,do i still need to take off the front left caliper and manipulate the secondary sylinder when bleeding the left 10mm nipple and also the rear circuit,or will the vacuum tool pull fluid through when holding the rear brake down? Hope i made myself understood mate. English is not my first language 🤣
It will still need to be rotated buddy, air will be trapped at the top and won’t be pulled out otherwise 👍🏻
Hello there, planning to do the whole process on my own using a vacuum pump
For the second part (refilling the system) can I just proceed with the vacuum bleeding in the displayed order without having to flip the rear caliper and remove the front left one to put it at 15º from horizontal or is there a risk that the air bubbles stay trapped inside calipers even with the vacuuming if calipers stay at their normal positions ?
Thanks by advance ✌🏻
Yes, the air will stay trapped, rotation allows it to escape
@@KevsShed thanks Kev, will get it done the right way then ✌🏻
Thanks for those videos. You are the man!
Glad you like them!
good vid Kev, keep em coming
Thanks, will do!
Is it easier to bleed the system using a pressure bleeder as the one you used when draining the system?
I got of those bleeder tools you connect to the compressor.
Yeah it should be as you don’t need anyone to assist. That’s the way it describes it in the manual. Just wanted to show that it is possible to do it the old fashioned way without the need for any special tools 👌🏻
Hi sorry that this is a stupid question but was the only reason for transferring to pumping the brakes to pressurize the system rather than the vacuum for the second half just to show that it can be done and not that it's any easier. Just wanting to double check after your warning at the end.
Yes mate absolutely, The manual says that you must use some form of pressure bleeder and I often see people stating that it is impossible without a pressure bleeder. I therefore wanted to show that it was in fact possible without the use of any special tools and that a piece of hose and a jam jar will suffice! 👍🤓
@@KevsShed Thank you so much for all of your video's mate this vfr that I've bought is my second vehicle I've owned after my A2 licence so I've never worked on anything before Your guides show that it's a lot easier than I ever imagined to work on your own bike. Thanks again.
Thanks for another great video!
I imagine given the very low cost of the vacuum bleeder tool most people would use it for this job.
With that in mind would you be able to make a video showing how to do this job using that tool rather than reverting back to the old fashioned method?
As it gets a bit confusing for me when you switch methods as to what is required using the new vs old method.
It'll be exactly the same just without the need to pump pressure in using the pedal!
@@KevsShed Thanks for clarifying.
@@bigbluechopper24 You're welcome!
Do you still need to actuate the secondary master cylinder? Or does the vacuum pump pull it through anyway?
@@lmaoroflcopter In theory no you shouldn't need to but if you find that you can't get the pressure up then you may need to! Give it a go!
Hi Kevin, I have rewatched this and it wasn't quite so scary as the first time around ;@).
You use the vacuum pump to drain the brake system of old brake fluid, can you use the same vacuum pump to fill the system with fresh brake fluid, ie filling the brake reservoirs with fresh brake fluid and then drawing it through or do you need a pressure pump to do this? Reason I ask is I do not have an assistant and have to do it on my own. If I had an asst they would be pumping for sure!
My bike is exactly the same as yours except non ABS.
Also at last MOT there was an advisory that indicated fluctuating brake performance on front brakes (prior to my ownership) so I think the calliper seals need changing so with the system drained of fluid it would be wise to replace the piston seals otherwise not to do so will mean they will probably have to be done soon anyway meaning re-bleeding the brake system again?
Hope all is working out for you.
ATB.
@KevsShed
At Stage 3, at 32:23, can you please better explain how the assistant is "pushing down on the secondary master cylinder" at the front ?
Is the caliper still on the position from earlier ?
Is there still the plate on which it's squeezing on ?
When pressurizing the system using the rear brake pedal, what's happening ? The Secondary master cylinder is pressing on the plate and the the assistant is pushing the piston back in ?
Thanks!
hi I am fron New Zealand and need to know if you can help I got 2018 vft x cross runner i like to install a center stand o the bike but honda don't have one. can you point me in the right direction please. love your work
Good video, 👍
Think I'll leave this job to a pro mechanic. Looks like it could go all very wrong easily if you miss a step.
Hello Kevs, I have honda vfr 800, 2011 but the clutch is very stiff and am not sure how can i adjust it , do u have any advice on that. I would appreciate gettinga response from you.
Possibly heavy springs fitted?
Nicely done Kev! I was going to ask if it was the same for an abs bike but then I realized it is an abs model you’ve got. I was going to try the same but was definitely not planning to empty out and introduce air into the system! I’m planning on just keep vacuuming until I’ve got fresh fluid. You’ve got balls of steel! Lol
Cheers mate 👌🏻
thanks for posting Kev. My question was the same - would it not be better not to introduce air into the system?
Mike Kovacs either way you have you bleeding kit out and I prefer not to put new fluid in the system whilst the old stuff is in there still. I do get your point however but it is my preferred way 👍🏻
@@KevsShed I'm going to attempt this on my 2007 in the Spring. If I don't plan on introducing air into the system and ensure both brake reservoirs are topped off while bleeding, vacuuming until fresh fluid is visible should suffice, correct?
How much brake fluid is needed? Seen somewhere else it takes 2litres? Great video
I reckon you could probably get away with buying one litre but it isn’t really expensive and you could always buy 2 litres and also change the clutch fluid with what’s left over! 👌🏻
@@KevsShed thanks :)
You shouldn’t have to actuate the second master cylinder,you could pull the fluid through to the proportional valve and it should flow through easily 👍
Thanks for the comment but that does not work. It should in theory but in my experience it simply doesn’t!
Hi I have a 2002 vtec. Followed your video. Brilliant. But when I arrived at the bleed nipple right hand side ( sitting on the bike). There was no nipple ? What is your suggestion? I just followed the video ie rear caliper but missed out missing bleed nipple. Seems ok at the moment
Yeah, I didn’t specify in the video that it’s only ABS models that have that nipple, on non-ABS bikes simply skip that step 👌🏻
Well done Kev
Thanks mate 👍🏻
No need to repeatedly crack the nipple open and close. Just the tubing going into a container with brake fluid is enough to prevent air and old fluid from going back inside the nipple. No need to bleed the system dry first either. That means a tool-less, one-man job of just replacing the old fluid in the reservoirs and repeatedly pumping the pedal/lever until new fluid and no bubbles come out from the nipple. I've successfully used this method on my R1 and on all the cars I've worked on, the same should apply to the VFR800's proportioning valve (if it doesn't, just repeatedly pump both front and rear brake levers, that should be plenty of pressure). Only caveat is it allows bottoming out of car brake pedals which could damage the master cylinder, so just don't bottom out the brake pedal when working on a car. Clutch pedals are fine to bottom out since they do so in normal operation, same thing with motorcycle clutch/brake levers.
Thanks for the tip however the process that I followed is 100% the way it is written in the Honda Factory manual, including bleeding the system dry first!! 👍🏻
I will also add that if you've ever done this task on the VFR800 it is nothing like anything you have ever bled before! Trust me when I say that I have done lots! Including my R1 incidentally! Pumping the rear brake pedal does nothing to the middle piston on the rear calliper as that is activated by the rotation of the left hand front calliper! Bleeding the linked brakes on a VFR is nothing even remotely like any of the cars or bikes that either you or I have worked on previously! This system is very different in its operation! Following any method other than the one stated by Honda in their own manual will most likely not be successful! 👍🤓
@@KevsShed Ha! My mistake. I assumed there was only one proportional control valve with the front and rear master cylinders joining together at the middle. From looking at the schemas it looks like you could technically bypass bleeding the proportional control valves altogether and just bleed at the center bleed valves if there's no air anywhere in-between. That would save the trouble of having to remove the second front master cylinder, tilt it and manually pump it while pumping the front brake. Then again, because it's an open moving part it will most likely have to be done anyway haha as those tend to accumulate tiny bubbles of air. Anyways thanks for the video! I thought pumping the front brake alone would be enough to transfer fluid to the center rear piston, but not when it's disconnected from the fork haha!
Cheers Mate, The centre rear piston is a bit of an oddity, it's operated by the left front rotating on its bracket which in turn squeezes the secondary master cylinder attached to it. Obviously this doesn't rotate unless the wheel is turning and the brakes are applies so it needs to be done manually! It's a right royal PITA but if my method is followed then it will usually turn out right! 👍
@@KevsShed Cheers!
Hi Kev, I have a 2002 vtec NON ABS model. Is it any different to what you shown on the ABS model?
Identical except for the second bleed nipple under the seat won’t be there on non-ABS models. Simply skip that part of the process 👍🏻
@@KevsShed many thanks Kev 👍
Is it possible to just vaccum bleed the system with the vaccum bleeder like you had to suck the old fluid out??
Great videos Kev - really enjoyable and informative! At the moment, I just need to turn my front brake banjo around 180 degrees (as it’s stopping the brake lever being lowered to a more comfortable angle). So, do I need to drain the whole system down? - or can I just drain the first line and master cylinder,spin the banjo over and then refill that single line? Thx!
Sorry Matt, I missed this comment before, to be honest, if you want to save yourself any hassle, I would simply loosen the banjo bolt a fraction, just enough for the banjo to turn but still with a little resistance. Then turn it to the direction you need it and then retighten the banjo. I reckon you'll get away without needing to bleed it. So long as you don't press the lever, I don't think it'll draw any air in. Good luck. Hopefully you'll get away with it and the lever will feel firm afterwards. If not then obviously you'll have to go through the process of bleeding the front of the system.
@@KevsShed Thanks Kev! Actually the lines are Hel braided ones and we’re quite newly fitted by the previous owner. So all new fluids etc. The banjo is an odd angle and hits the bar clamp - so I thought I’d be able to drain down, undo banjo and spin it 180 degrees.....as it happened not! It’s just too stiff to rotate. So, I refilled and bled the front....
What I did find was, with the bleeding kit I bought (like yours) the supplied black pipe ends did not fit on the nipples at all well. The plain clear tube alone was better. In the end, I got a firm enough brake lever through bleeding....but then made it much firmer again by fixing the lever pulled in to the bar with a strap. Loosening / retightening it again over a couple of days.
This made a huge difference and obviously moved any last air bubbles up into the master cylinder. I’d recommend that as a ‘post bleed’ process based on my own limited experience.
@@sailmakerman Nice one! Glad you got it all sorted!
@@sailmakerman Ok i have a couple of questions.
1st: What do you mean by rotating the banjo 180 degrees? You mean that you rotated the line so it is pointed upwards? I understand that this would give a lot more room for adjustability but wouldn't the length of the line be an issue? I myself thought of filing down the little thing on the fluid reservoir that stops the line from staying at a fixing position, so i can get a few degrees of adjustability.
2nd: What happens when you fix the lever pressed in? Does it force the air to go up to the fluid reservoir?
@@trantas4 I meant turn the Banjo over really. The pipe exited at an odd angle. In the end I did just what you thought of and filed a little bit off the little tag which gave me enough movement to lower the lever to a better angle.
Great video! How much liquid did you use? Thanks you!!
I'm not entirely certain but I would hazard a guess that it was less than half a litre
@@KevsShed I wanted to change the brake and clutch fluid, I didn't know if half a liter or 1 liter, thanks for the help
@@estebansm8539 1 Litre should be enough to do both I reckon!
A litre should do it.
@@KevsShed 1 liter to make the forks is enough? Thanks
Just to clarify - you could have used the same tool you used to initially drain the system during the final bleeding process? With no need for an assistant or depressing the levers at all?
Yes 👍🏻
Thanks! Very informative.
Thank you
Thanks again for the content
Kev, did you consider speed bleeders for the VFR system?
One quick question. If the system is completely flushed doesn't that make it easy to press the brake caliper cylinders all the way in? That way you may be able to diagnose a stuck-rusty cylinder or any faults in the braking system.
I'm asking because i'm planning on rebuilding all master cylinders and it would be a good opportunity to check them also.
Yes absolutely! That said though, you’d have had symptoms of a fault if you had any problems by now I’d have thought 👍🏻
@@KevsShed The thing is, it's my first bike so i'm not that good at knowing when something doesn't work properly. I think everything works fine but it's good to check every once in a while just to make sure.
Yeah, I get ya. 👌🏻
Just got this kit but the right angles piece that fits over the nipple, (there are 3 of them, supposed to be different sizes) well anyway none of them fit tight on the vfr's bleed nipple, looks like they put 2 the same size in and one slightly smaller but still not small enough for the bikes bleed nipple.
Shame, I’m sure they’ll send another if you tell them!
If you can't get a tight fit on the nipple, then try and get screen washer tubing they come in different diameters of size , that's what l did and got a good fit onto my bikes brake nipples, also the tubing connected to my vac pump no problem you can get the tubing at halfords or any car parts supplier .cheers
Kev, is the rear proportioning valve (stage 4 of the operation) only on ABS models? Maybe I'm looking in the wrong place, but I can't seem to find the bleeder valve above the rear brake pedal. Thank you for all your great informational videos! 🍻
There are 2 valves under the seat on ABS models, on the non-ABS models there is only the one. If you have a non-ABS model then you won't find the unit that you are searching for. I really should have said that in the video but as I have an ABS model it really didn't occur to me at the time! 👍🤓
@@KevsShed Yup, I'm on non-ABS model and I was losing my mind trying to find that seventh nipple. Thanks again! Cheers! 🍻
thx Kev.... great video !
Glad you enjoyed it! 👍🤓
Is this the same for the 5th gen pre vtec
Pretty much although you won't have one of the bleed screws under the seat as it only has one proportioning valve because the FI didn't have ABS. other than that pretty much an identical process. 👌🤓
Thanks I will have a go at it.
Would this be the same procedure on a CBR 600f 2011-2013? It also has abs linked brakes.
I’m not familiar with the linked system on that particular bike but I would imagine it is very similar.
@@KevsShed I've got a manual for it so I'll have a look and compare. I've changed fluid on my RR which isn't abs and was a lot easier. This seems more involved. Thanks for the reply.
No worries buddy, let me know how you get on 👍🏻
Hello Kevin, just saw your vid. Is there a way to just bleed the rear brake? I had to rebuild my rear master cylinder and have a dead pedal. Fronts work like a charm.
Absolutely mate, if you don't need to touch the fronts and you are happy with them, then simply start the process at Stage 2, approx 24:30 in the video! 👍🤓
@@KevsShed thanks so much! I appreciate your help. I am pretty sure it is just air in the MC. I am watching all your vids now. Greetings from Florida!
Nice one Kev...is it mandatory for your wife to twat her shin on the trolley jack though 😂
😂😂😂
Brilliant video...thanks
Can the second part of the video be done with the hand vacuum pump instead of having to get another person to help you?
Yes absolutely, I just wanted to demonstrate that it can be done without the use of any special tools as there is a common misconception that it can only be achieved with a vacuum pump. I just wanted to quash this falsehood!
AS far as you know, is it the same on the CBR superblackbird?
As far as I know, it is pretty much the same process