I DONT KNOW WHO YOU GUYS are BUT you all just taught me something.... just rebled my brakes twenty mins ago with my wifes help pumping the pedal for me...and using a the proportion valve tool ...i have owned this truck for 8 years never had brake pedal like i got now...hey guys thanx ....
Question, when the low brake fluid sensor is removed, is there supposed to be any pressure or brake fluid in that chamber? I just did a proportion valve rebuild for an 84 Mustang. Different animal, but same function as the proportion valve requires a set screw to hold the internal piston from moving while bleeding brakes. But after my rebuild, my low fluid switch is leaking brake fluid through the top pins. Not the threads. Does that indicate the rebuild wasn't a success? Right now I have the set screw acting as a plug because I cant used the stock low fluid switch. It's possible that when the torched the lines to get them free, they damaged the plastic sensor, but just the same, I was under the impression there wasn't supposed to be fluid under the switch in the chamber where the sensors prong rests in the V groove.
The switch on the combination valve is NOT a ''low fluid switch''. It's purpose is to alert the driver to a problem in the brake system via a light in the cluster that says brakes or something like that. Yes, of course if you torched the thing you will need to replace it. On the other hand when a brake system loses pressure via a leak you will notice that the petal almost goes to the floor and the brakes don't work nearly as well. If you are the type of person who wouldn't notice if half your brakes went out by all means fix the switch for the idiot light.
I am not getting power to the rear proportioning valve and the fuse is good what else could it be how do I get power to that rear proportioning valve because I have no rear brakes
Sounds like the self-adjusters in your back drum brakes aren't working right, so your brakes have gone out of adjustment as they have worn, The net effect is that they over self-actuate when they get far enough out of adjustment. You can manually adjust them to confirm this diagnosis, before tearing things apart. If you have just rebuilt them, then maybe all you need do is to back up and firmly apply your brakes a few times to make the self-adjusters do their thing.
Everything is new on it! it's a total Restoration! I drove it maybe 300 miles then it started doing it! two guys told me proportioning Valve@@SteveRichfield
Very informative video and one hell of a car used to demonstrate wheel lock up!
FYI - You should only use o-rings made from Ethylene Propylene Diene Monomer (EPDM) so the brake fluid doesn't damage them.
This was robbed from Master Power Brakes Combination Valve Video, thats their logo blurred out in the bottom left.
Shut up
I DONT KNOW WHO YOU GUYS are BUT you all just taught me something.... just rebled my brakes twenty mins ago with my wifes help pumping the pedal for me...and using a the proportion valve tool ...i have owned this truck for 8 years never had brake pedal like i got now...hey guys thanx ....
This was robbed from Master Power Brakes Combination Valve Video, thats their logo blurred out in the bottom left.
Question, when the low brake fluid sensor is removed, is there supposed to be any pressure or brake fluid in that chamber? I just did a proportion valve rebuild for an 84 Mustang. Different animal, but same function as the proportion valve requires a set screw to hold the internal piston from moving while bleeding brakes. But after my rebuild, my low fluid switch is leaking brake fluid through the top pins. Not the threads. Does that indicate the rebuild wasn't a success? Right now I have the set screw acting as a plug because I cant used the stock low fluid switch. It's possible that when the torched the lines to get them free, they damaged the plastic sensor, but just the same, I was under the impression there wasn't supposed to be fluid under the switch in the chamber where the sensors prong rests in the V groove.
The switch on the combination valve is NOT a ''low fluid switch''. It's purpose is to alert the driver to a problem in the brake system via a light in the cluster that says brakes or something like that. Yes, of course if you torched the thing you will need to replace it. On the other hand when a brake system loses pressure via a leak you will notice that the petal almost goes to the floor and the brakes don't work nearly as well. If you are the type of person who wouldn't notice if half your brakes went out by all means fix the switch for the idiot light.
I am not getting power to the rear proportioning valve and the fuse is good what else could it be how do I get power to that rear proportioning valve because I have no rear brakes
Anyone know where the proportioning valve is located on a 06 impala 3.9 v6?
Excuseme sir what #the valve it is i have 1984 chevy c10 1983
I just barely touch the brake and the back tires lock up! it's a 60 chev! any idea's?
Sounds like the self-adjusters in your back drum brakes aren't working right, so your brakes have gone out of adjustment as they have worn, The net effect is that they over self-actuate when they get far enough out of adjustment. You can manually adjust them to confirm this diagnosis, before tearing things apart. If you have just rebuilt them, then maybe all you need do is to back up and firmly apply your brakes a few times to make the self-adjusters do their thing.
Everything is new on it! it's a total Restoration! I drove it maybe 300 miles then it started doing it! two guys told me proportioning Valve@@SteveRichfield