Use 3 parts cement 4 parts soft sand 7 parts vermiculite 7 parts perlite, when casting in a mold insert reinforcement such as chicken wire to make the required size heat tiles
A couple of ideas: Use castable refractory cement for a long lasting permanent insulation. Get it dry or premixed in buckets. Much less expensive than making your own out of cement/vermiculite for the quantities needed here. Use hardware cloth or chicken wire as reinforcement to make tiles if you like. You can use it in conjunction with kaowool between the stove walls and refractory for a superior insulation. Use a baking sheet (what we call a cookie sheet in my region of the US) as a mold for making your tiles. $1/sheet and reusable. It wouldn't take a whole lot of work or money to convert this into a propane forge if so desired.
Id leave the top inside of the stove bare (no insulation) and rest on the top a baking tray full of sand or similar to create a small sand heat battery.
I agree with no insulation needed, it already rockets. I have been trying to fill a stock pot with sand and heat it up on the top of the stove. I have almost the same model but my exhaust vents from the top not the back. The sand needs to be around the exhaust pipe to really take advantage of the heat. I've burned for 3hrs and was only able to get the top of the sand to 115. The exhaust is 800+ but the top of the stove is only 300-500. I think by surrounding the exhaust with sand you will be able to burn a small fire for less time with a higher efficiency of heat retained.
Hello Robert. Love the content. You should really look into wood gasifying stoves and explore their capabilities. I believe they have the potential to make our traditional wood-stoves obsolete with their enormous efficiency. Take a look at Mr Teslonian here on TH-cam, he showed a prototype that was hugely impressive! Take care.
These tent stoves are great but they have a small fire box so you need to stoke the fire all night. My idea is to take a stock pot, run the exhaust through the bottom then fill it with sand. I saw another guy fill a kelty pot with sand to retain the heat. In his experiment the pot was still warm after 5hrs. I figured with the stockpot it would be able to stay warm for a really long time. My tent stove has the exhaust coming off the top so I'm going to make feet and it will sit on the stove itself. I would love to see you guys try this or any advice would be appreciated. Thanks so much and love the channel!
So, your going to carry how much sand with you? confused about stoking all night.. Most people sleep better in the cold in a proper sleeping bag. I think most people fill the stove and put it on damper mode so it burns several hrs before needing another fill no? By then you asleep...
Use only dry strong essence of wood and it can make central a cylinder where you add sand . Also at this stove ,make a box from metal for inside and put sand . Use cylinder after wood it's burn . So ,in this way , it will remain warm another 5 hours . It will need to be some kg of sand to have effect .
@@MalawisLilleKanal Mmm Not most times I go hiking out in the woods... Especially in the winter when I would benefit most. But I can see some use to what your suggesting. Just dont put rocks that explode!
Another fine stove, maybe run a metal pipe from the outside at the bottom up the inside of the chimney 2 feet and then exit the chimney and pump air through it a pretty clumsy heat ex-changer but it would work.
I was thinking something similar. Putting a large coffee can stack around the flue and using simple convection to power heat distribution. The other thing I was thinking of was wrapping that first section (or more) in copper tubing and using an aquarium pump to push air through the pipe making a sort of directed heat source.
These tent stoves also have double hulled versions, that add warmed air underneath the stovetop, for a woodgas burn right under the cooktop, supposedly
Thank you for your videos, They are a throwback to my Grandparents era. When practicality reigned & things didn't make pounds if they didn't make sense. People like yourself are going to be a literal light in the dark for those who have become over reliant on technology.
As other commenters, I am not certain that this Vevor benefits from being in a Rocket Stove configuration. Because the Rock Wool insulates the top of the stove, this rocket design loses a lot of the heat going to the top of the box, where it would normally "cook" food, or boil water. Additionally, the majority of the heat is now forced up the chimney before it gets a chance to warm the room. I honestly think this will defeat the Vevor's design. One easy way to tell would be pot of room temperature water (same temp).. same amount of wood, and measure how long it takes to boil the water in both configurations. (It's not the perfect science, but it will give you an estimate). My guess would be the rocket stove take much longer.
because it is insulated it doesn't 'lose' any heat mate - that heat is redirected - the box then just acts as a 'burn chamber' actually a pyrolysis chamber - full burn is later in the stove where most heat is generated - more than if it were still a simple stove. The chimney now becomes a heat radiator - it could be better that's for sure - longer chimney run, heat exchanger fins etc - but the gasification and burn is going to be more efficient in the use of fuels - the problem of getting the heat into the room is a different problem but has some pretty simple solutions
@@ThinkingandTinkering Understood. I realize from your perspective, you "visualize" this as an improvement, because you envision a way where the heat will get exchanged prior to be vented out the roof. However, for the "new viewers" (and for dumb dumbs like me who can't read into your master vision)... it looked like a really fast way to burn fuel to the atmosphere. heheh... I guess, I am looking forward to the next video in the series that demonstrates the heat exchange as a valid improvement. I am very keen on seeing how you will get it to exchange better than the Vevor without the modification.
What I might be tempted to try with this, is getting hold of a bunch of 90 degree elbows for the chimney/flue and make it go back on itself a few times to create a "snake" which then performs as a radiator. Easier than putting a barrel over it and welding a new flue which has to be vented outside anyway. Lots of people can#t weld, don't own a welder and it still needs parts sourcing etc etc. This 90 degree bend thing can be exhausted out of a small window horizontally with just enough gap to provide some ventilation. I found some 8mm stainless elbows on ebay called "Stainless Steel 90 Degree Elbow Chimney Liner Bend 90° Multi Flue Stove Pipe". I don't know if they would fit (with some fireproof caulking) but think it's worth a shot.
We built an indoor rocket stove with no weld. Just a hole in the ground with bricks on top to make a tunnel. A cob burn pipe over the back hole of tunnel. A 55 gal barrel over that sealed with mud on bottom. And a vent out into the ground for radiant heating, then out under the wall of the tiny house and up to vent vertically with only steam coming out. It was a vertical feeder as well.
@@THEGLASSMANSWORLD Sounds great, I'd like to do something similar eventually. But but that's not gonna fly in someone's 4th storey flat in suburbia, either practically or in terms of regulations :(
@@THEGLASSMANSWORLD I subbed to you from this reply .I'm wondering if you can post an instructional video to the rocket heater you described here ,it sounds simple yet awesome ,thanks for sharing 👍 .
@@TheBaconWizard Yeah, this was for when I was living Off Grid. But theoretically it can be done indoor too with a temporary build ontop of layers of hardibacker. but it definitely wouldn't meet regulations!
@@duhhhh1723 Thanks for the Sub! I am pretty sure I documented the build or at least us using it on a FB Live video or something. I'll do my best to find a good video and upload soon!
@@paulwright8378 I bet their sales have increased since Rob's segment using ethanol - especially in the UK ! Making it into a rocket stove and using wood rather than ethanol is fine but then you'll need to pipe the exhaust out of the house with a seriously safe and maybe not so convenient exhaust system. And I am not sure if the Vevor is really designed for that sort of heat over a long time. I guess if you are protecting the internal bare metal with some form of insulation or firebricks it may give it a longer life. Personally I'd rather get the convected heat from the body of the stove - I have no use for a high burn power rocket stove because experience with a pellet heater shows me that you won't get as much heat from the exhaust pipe as you will from the larger and slower burning (more cost-efficient) surface area heater body.
I want to see you remove a section - shorten the pipe and cook over the direct flame ,outside of course .It's fun learning from you good sir ,thanks for sharing 👍.
The rocket stove has so many ways to improve efficiency that no one has yet truly evaluated and made changes to the total efficiency of the unit. PERIOD ROBERT !!! I know one day that will happen and the stove will get "ALL THE RAGE AGAIN." Good day to you Sir. Have yourself a Merry Christmas and A Happy New Year. I will bet you and I will attack the problem with gusto and surprise the critics.
Darned fun to see a tent repurposed like this. Kind of reminds me of some of the portable wet/dry tent sauna stoves that are more popular in eastern Europe with winter campers. they have a cage around the outside of the firebox which is often filled with river rocks (mass to capture heat and to pour water over to get a burst of steam). Some of the fancy ones have a hot water boiler attached to the side. Usually they are set up beside a lake so they can jump into the ice cold water to cool off. They aren't rocket stoves, but adapting for a purpose like this is a fun path to discovery. My own two cents for this design pathway. To further adapt the stove Robert is showing us here to radiant heat, I'd consider replacing the first (and maybe second) section of flue pipe with steel pipe. It would likely need an extra leg or two for support, but you'd get way more heat radiating out into the room than with the thin stainless steel.
Im not sure why you want to turn a wood stove into a rocket stove. Rocket stoves are designed to create the most heat at the top of the chimney, out of the least amount of fuel, to cook your meals, all the heat goes up the chimney. For a heater you want to keep as much of the heat in the box as possible and still have enough to create a draft, so you slow the burn and add mass not insulation to the fire box. You can also add cooling fins to the chimney pipe as long as you dont pull too much heat from the gases and not allow them to escape..or am I just missing something
I would actually cut a flap on top and fold that down at a little more than a 45° angle to feed longer wood or branches or you can make a simple drip feeder for pellets to drop down the flap too. You can use a metal rain gutter with the bottom end fabricated to let the pellets slip through into the rocket stove slowly. Just fill up the gutter with pellets and let it pour all night.
@@duhhhh1723 I have a video called BACK TO NATURE: SOLAR WINDOW OVEN PART 8 where we build a huge 55 gal barrel rocket stove mass heater. As long as your vent tube and burn chamber and feed hole are all the same diameter, then the flow of exhaust should get pulled up and out through the smoke pipe and chimney.
I hate to be the negative Nellie... But running a thin walled steel stove as a high temperature rocket stove will quickly burn through the material of the stove. So, be extremely careful if you run a thin walled wood burning stove as a rocket stove inside. This is why many of the stoves have super insulated heat riser for the secondary burn. Getting up to that temperature weakens the metal. Many of the rocket stove heaters I've built are made of insulative fire brick, and extremely sturdily built.
@@nickkitchener6155 Exhaust pipe might last a little longer, but will still burn out. Metal just cannot take the high temperature that rocket stoves can produce.
Yep - I don't know much actual science but I do know something that is not made to withstand such high temps and will burn out quickly if used as a rocket stove for too long. This stove is really only meant for casual camping. You'll need firebricks for it to take any sort of real heat on a regular basis.
Hmm… 🧐 it’s still terribly inefficient, letting the cool air flow underneath through the fire draws a lot of unburned gasses out, an easy fix is to put a piece of pipe on (2” or so) on top of the bottom plate allowing air to preheat thus combusting the gasses
It's like cooking, you can use a recipe or look into your fridge and use whats available or what you like. For a Rocket stove you need enough Air and a long enough pipe for the "Rocket effect".
The tent stove is a great idea because it is portable and not perminant. Like what you were saying about your laws. Open a window, put a pre sized stub outside made of metal... I saw a guy run a flu sideways about 10 feet to catch the heat coming out of it before going outside. I don't know how risky that is, but it put a lot of heat off. It was all near the ceiling (way too close). Outside then up. It took up a lot of space. If a rocket stove is just self stoking flame, hotter by design and burning off the gasses in a secondary burn... Why does that secondary burn have to be up in the flu pipe? Could all the elements not happen laterally through a zig zag of plates and making the hottest part right under the flat top of the stove. More heat. There is room in that box for it. (removable) I think I've seen you mention a similar thing in pipe. I'm just suggesting internal ducting plates. That would make the whole top a nice hot cooking surface. Probably would melt the metal duct
In principle that might be some kind of rocket stove. Though the core of the rocket stoves shouldn't be made of metal. The core might get too hot and metals melts.
Hello. Please could people raise awareness about the fact that not having the central heating on at all, when it's minus 8, + 10, as it has been in the last week, will cause burst pipes. It seems to be one of the top Google searches - Burst Pipes. Not one headline warning of this, not one energy company warning about it. All, just warm the person, not the house, so people who could not afford hundreds, are now facing £7,500 quotes for burst pipes. Plus, as this has happened to so many, the waiting time to have them fixed will be very long. To those it hasn't happened to, please warn others that you have to have it on, sparingly, first thing in the morning, and an hour in the middle of the day, and at night. Just so the pipes do not freeze. So sad that not one person, in all the research I have been doing has mentioned this. Thank you.
Thanks Rob! When you first brought out this stove, I thought that it was very close to a rocket stove to begin with. Just needed different and more airflow with insulation. So you just reinforced my thoughts on it with this video. I'm also thinking that if you make it work too well as a rocket stove you will melt it down. You could add more air intake points and expand your exhaust/stove pipe, but then again you would get a lot more heat. Maybe too much heat lol. Thanks for another great and interesting video Rob!
@@ThinkingandTinkering One thing to consider safety wise. If there is an stiff updraft following the outside of the pipe, it will make a forced draw and then a backdraft. Like blowing across a straw, it whistles. Best to work this thing with the door closed and maybe a shield of some sort out from the intake. There is also a problem in the exhaust as it has a short horizontal shot out of the burn chamber before heading up. That kink maybe a problem in windy conditions. A hot spot. Insulate it as well internally or it will likely melt. Make a note: this is why a well made pulse jet exhaust hooks back in the direction of it's intake. To make a hot spot inline with the backend of it's expanded burn chamber. Get a back flow from this and you will look odd without eyebrows for a bit. LOL
Given the blueing of that chimney, that looks to have been a good amount of heat from those ethanol tins and certainly enough to heat a room - how long did it burn for? If there was a way to have this burn for a good few hours and give off a decent heat (even if not full rocket heat) using ethanol for indoors, I would genuinely be interested
Yes I wasn't sure if the blueing was just from the ethanol tins alone or whether Rob had already tested it by burning wood in it as preparation for this video segment. That does seem a lot of heat for essentially candles on steroids but if they do produce that much heat then it makes an ideal room heater with a clean burning fuel like ethanol.
You can limit the top exposure using something like a piece of aluminum foil. Ive heated a room for over 8 hours using a tall metal cup. Cover the top with the foil across the middle to setup the flame size. Careful with your fingers. A wick would probably be the best solution. I didn't have a wick at home. Worked well as it was. Long term is used a wick. Best price I found was around 60 for 5 gallons.
Rocket-man, glad your not an expert. I never trust experts, they think they have learned everything and stop. It is at this point that truly intelligent people keep on going and find the really interesting stuff.
Please do watch out if you try using this with methanol, ethanol, or other fluids. If the fluffy insulation sucks it up, you have a gigantic torch out of control
@@regwatson2017 I believe insulation should be placed outside the metal burning chamber. With a second metal cover, just like a double insulated pipe for the exhaust fumes.
@@paulbrouyere1735 Yes good point - I really don't know how long the stove would last with high heat from a wood fire - this is really meant for light camping. If you have wood stoves like we have here in Australia they are made from very heavy gauge steel protected by firebricks so I doubt the Vevor would last long with wood being burnt inside it.
@@regwatson2017 Very good point: light camping. So maybe it is not such a good idea to adapt it for heating your home without thoroughly redesigning the thing until it fits building regulations
burning this design (with the insulation) with methanol, ethanol or other liquid fuels really is a very bad idea - the whole point is the gasification of the wood - there is no point in trying gasification with methanol - it just doesn't need it - I am not sure why anybody would even want to do it
What about a copper coil round the chimney? What about incorporating the tin can Stirling engine? Are you into winter camping? That stove is already a serious piece of kit for winter camping, but if you could add a rudimentary boiler and a Stirling engine as easily portable add-ons, Vevor would have REALLY got their money's worth out of you. Such a camping stove kit would easily fetch £4or500.
I have an antique FATSO stove. I swear it's a rocket stove. If I can get it to draw correctly (I have 3 90Deg sections of stove pipe) it positively roars. Bet if I drilled some holes in the bottom of the first 90, it would turn the chimney red. It barely smokes now, once it gets going.
Exactly my thoughts - great as a camp cooker with an adapter for kettles and frypan like Rob made but no good for serious convection heating. I really don't get the excitement of rocket stoves - except maybe for closet pyromaniacs who just like burning things with a bit of noise to it ! Give me real practicality any day.
ok - so what is your solution? I think it is fine to point out what you think are problems mate but I think it is infinitely better if you present a solution as well
You make this insulation from two modules ( parts cover by iron table ) . When you want to cook , you eliminate the part that's up . Or ,if you want heat to keep more ,put sand in this modules .
Rob appreciate this is about making a rocket stove but if people want the most practical heat from the Vevor as a room heater won't they get more heat from keeping heat in the larger chamber with a larger surface area in the room compared to just heat coming from the stovepipe ?
heat generation isn't a function of area mate - heat transfer is but the generation isn't - so a more 'complete' burn of the fuel is always going to generate more heat - the problem of exchanging it to warm a room is a different problem - but there are easy solutions and quite a few have already been suggested
Can you make a video on building a distiller to make the methanol/ethanol to burn? I've been using the methanol from my distiller to de ice my car. Filled a squirty bottle with it. (not setting alight to it of course) I love efficiency. Can't stand waste. Such a shame so much energy is lost turning one type of energy into another...
In my mind a rocket stove must to burn wood and other materials without eliminate smoke to be capable to use inside,to have chimneys ,but ,to not eliminate smoke from this chimneys (2) . So,no outside of house ( apartment ) elimination of hot air . It's need more steroids : two chimneys, another iron cylinder with many holes inside to flow easy the air that come from external ventilation . Two fan ventilation's ,one at base in a circular way ( to make a circular air flow ) and another central . I think that maybe in this way,to eliminate smoke and use this stove for inside without holes in a wall for chimneys . I want to use a variety of materials and to not make smoke inside without to be need an evacuation from chimney to outside .
I not care to make economy at burning materials, because,are a lot here . Wood,paper, cartoons, clothes,books , and other materials ,you find enough here at garbage containers and not only .
@@tdoruignat8839 Burning stuff gives off Carbon Monoxide gas which is colorless and odorless. It's poisonous and will kill you. That's the main reason why you exhaust the burnt gases. You're treading on dangerous ground, dude I don't want to see you kill yourself or somebody else.
Please can you do another video? Imagine you don't have a lot of money. Gas and electricity is too much and you want to heat your home as cheap as possible all year round. What is the ultimate home heater you would use? 12v 8kw diesel heater run on waste oil? Log burner? Rocket stove? Methanol heater?
It would be a function of where you live and what's available in your area. I live in the countryside and can pick up a lot of twigs and branches just when I'm out walking. So my best bet is to find the most efficient way of burning it Others can get used veg oil easily and cheaply.
Last snow was 8 inches of wet & heavy, by the time I was almost done , I skipped the front deck , and my dogs packed it down hard , I’ve learned this lesson before , not Again ! But I was tired ! That’s no excuse !
I'm not an expert, but I think you used the word "pyrolysis" incorrectly in this video. Pyrolysis is the heating of an organic material in the absence of oxygen. That is not what is happening in this video. You showed pyrolysis in action in your video 1707.
Just came in from shoveling , I’m sweating , like a obese guy at an all you can eat buffet ! Dripping almost ! The down your back kind , mini rain gutter at the small of your back , plan ahead !
Well. Its supposed to also be for cooking. I've been looking for a stove with a hotplate That heats the hotplate before it goes up The chimney. I think I just worked it out.
Use 3 parts cement 4 parts soft sand 7 parts vermiculite 7 parts perlite, when casting in a mold insert reinforcement such as chicken wire to make the required size heat tiles
A couple of ideas:
Use castable refractory cement for a long lasting permanent insulation. Get it dry or premixed in buckets. Much less expensive than making your own out of cement/vermiculite for the quantities needed here. Use hardware cloth or chicken wire as reinforcement to make tiles if you like. You can use it in conjunction with kaowool between the stove walls and refractory for a superior insulation. Use a baking sheet (what we call a cookie sheet in my region of the US) as a mold for making your tiles. $1/sheet and reusable.
It wouldn't take a whole lot of work or money to convert this into a propane forge if so desired.
To me it seems like the burn will be more efficient, but the heat will mainly be available to the crows rather than inside the tent.
This is basically a batch box rocket like I said before, you should look up the vortex batch box ones, they're amazing and so pretty!
Very clever Mr. Smith! I more than enjoy your videos... I NEED THEM! It's like you're the dealer and I'm the junkie! Can't wait for my next fix, man!
Heisenberg Principle…..
Id leave the top inside of the stove bare (no insulation) and rest on the top a baking tray full of sand or similar to create a small sand heat battery.
I agree with no insulation needed, it already rockets. I have been trying to fill a stock pot with sand and heat it up on the top of the stove. I have almost the same model but my exhaust vents from the top not the back. The sand needs to be around the exhaust pipe to really take advantage of the heat. I've burned for 3hrs and was only able to get the top of the sand to 115. The exhaust is 800+ but the top of the stove is only 300-500. I think by surrounding the exhaust with sand you will be able to burn a small fire for less time with a higher efficiency of heat retained.
Iv got a old water heater that attaches to the flue pipe ,couldn't I fill it with sand to use as a sand heat bank ?
Hello Robert. Love the content. You should really look into wood gasifying stoves and explore their capabilities. I believe they have the potential to make our traditional wood-stoves obsolete with their enormous efficiency. Take a look at Mr Teslonian here on TH-cam, he showed a prototype that was hugely impressive! Take care.
These tent stoves are great but they have a small fire box so you need to stoke the fire all night. My idea is to take a stock pot, run the exhaust through the bottom then fill it with sand. I saw another guy fill a kelty pot with sand to retain the heat. In his experiment the pot was still warm after 5hrs. I figured with the stockpot it would be able to stay warm for a really long time. My tent stove has the exhaust coming off the top so I'm going to make feet and it will sit on the stove itself. I would love to see you guys try this or any advice would be appreciated. Thanks so much and love the channel!
interesting idea - thanks for sharing I will have a think about it
So, your going to carry how much sand with you? confused about stoking all night.. Most people sleep better in the cold in a proper sleeping bag. I think most people fill the stove and put it on damper mode so it burns several hrs before needing another fill no? By then you asleep...
Use only dry strong essence of wood and it can make central a cylinder where you add sand . Also at this stove ,make a box from metal for inside and put sand . Use cylinder after wood it's burn . So ,in this way , it will remain warm another 5 hours . It will need to be some kg of sand to have effect .
@@JediStockTrader Not the one you replied to, but you can find sand or stone most places, I'd just bring the container.
@@MalawisLilleKanal Mmm Not most times I go hiking out in the woods... Especially in the winter when I would benefit most. But I can see some use to what your suggesting. Just dont put rocks that explode!
I'd wrap copper line around the chimney and run glycol/water to make a radiator that would allow you to pipe the heat to a remote location.
nice idea mate thanks for sharing
Another fine stove, maybe run a metal pipe from the outside at the bottom up the inside of the chimney 2 feet and then exit the chimney and pump air through it a pretty clumsy heat ex-changer but it would work.
Some radiating fins on the first flue section with a fan, or maybe a water heat exchange?...
Thank-you for awesome thought provoking videos 🙏
I was thinking something similar. Putting a large coffee can stack around the flue and using simple convection to power heat distribution. The other thing I was thinking of was wrapping that first section (or more) in copper tubing and using an aquarium pump to push air through the pipe making a sort of directed heat source.
Good idea
Cool idea
I know rock wool doesn't burn, but darn it, that stuff just looks flammable and makes me nervous every time.
to cut costs on your tin-can fire builds ask at a kitchen in a restaurant for some they come on a vast array of sizes.
These tent stoves also have double hulled versions, that add warmed air underneath the stovetop, for a woodgas burn right under the cooktop, supposedly
Thank you for your videos,
They are a throwback to my Grandparents era.
When practicality reigned &
things didn't make pounds if they didn't make sense.
People like yourself are going to be a literal light in the dark for those who have become over reliant on technology.
cheers mate
As other commenters, I am not certain that this Vevor benefits from being in a Rocket Stove configuration. Because the Rock Wool insulates the top of the stove, this rocket design loses a lot of the heat going to the top of the box, where it would normally "cook" food, or boil water. Additionally, the majority of the heat is now forced up the chimney before it gets a chance to warm the room.
I honestly think this will defeat the Vevor's design. One easy way to tell would be pot of room temperature water (same temp).. same amount of wood, and measure how long it takes to boil the water in both configurations. (It's not the perfect science, but it will give you an estimate). My guess would be the rocket stove take much longer.
because it is insulated it doesn't 'lose' any heat mate - that heat is redirected - the box then just acts as a 'burn chamber' actually a pyrolysis chamber - full burn is later in the stove where most heat is generated - more than if it were still a simple stove. The chimney now becomes a heat radiator - it could be better that's for sure - longer chimney run, heat exchanger fins etc - but the gasification and burn is going to be more efficient in the use of fuels - the problem of getting the heat into the room is a different problem but has some pretty simple solutions
@@ThinkingandTinkering Understood. I realize from your perspective, you "visualize" this as an improvement, because you envision a way where the heat will get exchanged prior to be vented out the roof. However, for the "new viewers" (and for dumb dumbs like me who can't read into your master vision)... it looked like a really fast way to burn fuel to the atmosphere.
heheh... I guess, I am looking forward to the next video in the series that demonstrates the heat exchange as a valid improvement. I am very keen on seeing how you will get it to exchange better than the Vevor without the modification.
Interesting. The cast iron weights used in weightlifting - pop them on top so that the stove make them radiate heat.
Now that’s a great thought
You can use bricks also
I think I am justified in clicking on the "like" before I watch one of your videos!
lol - cheers mate and all the best
What I might be tempted to try with this, is getting hold of a bunch of 90 degree elbows for the chimney/flue and make it go back on itself a few times to create a "snake" which then performs as a radiator.
Easier than putting a barrel over it and welding a new flue which has to be vented outside anyway. Lots of people can#t weld, don't own a welder and it still needs parts sourcing etc etc.
This 90 degree bend thing can be exhausted out of a small window horizontally with just enough gap to provide some ventilation. I found some 8mm stainless elbows on ebay called "Stainless Steel 90 Degree Elbow Chimney Liner Bend 90° Multi Flue Stove Pipe". I don't know if they would fit (with some fireproof caulking) but think it's worth a shot.
We built an indoor rocket stove with no weld. Just a hole in the ground with bricks on top to make a tunnel. A cob burn pipe over the back hole of tunnel. A 55 gal barrel over that sealed with mud on bottom. And a vent out into the ground for radiant heating, then out under the wall of the tiny house and up to vent vertically with only steam coming out. It was a vertical feeder as well.
@@THEGLASSMANSWORLD Sounds great, I'd like to do something similar eventually. But but that's not gonna fly in someone's 4th storey flat in suburbia, either practically or in terms of regulations :(
@@THEGLASSMANSWORLD I subbed to you from this reply .I'm wondering if you can post an instructional video to the rocket heater you described here ,it sounds simple yet awesome ,thanks for sharing 👍 .
@@TheBaconWizard Yeah, this was for when I was living Off Grid. But theoretically it can be done indoor too with a temporary build ontop of layers of hardibacker. but it definitely wouldn't meet regulations!
@@duhhhh1723 Thanks for the Sub! I am pretty sure I documented the build or at least us using it on a FB Live video or something. I'll do my best to find a good video and upload soon!
I hope Vevor sees this, and they make a rocket stove mod kit for it.
The don't make anything the just stick there names on available products
@@paulwright8378 I bet their sales have increased since Rob's segment using ethanol - especially in the UK ! Making it into a rocket stove and using wood rather than ethanol is fine but then you'll need to pipe the exhaust out of the house with a seriously safe and maybe not so convenient exhaust system. And I am not sure if the Vevor is really designed for that sort of heat over a long time. I guess if you are protecting the internal bare metal with some form of insulation or firebricks it may give it a longer life. Personally I'd rather get the convected heat from the body of the stove - I have no use for a high burn power rocket stove because experience with a pellet heater shows me that you won't get as much heat from the exhaust pipe as you will from the larger and slower burning (more cost-efficient) surface area heater body.
Food for thought. And free food at that. Thank you
I want to see you remove a section - shorten the pipe and cook over the direct flame ,outside of course .It's fun learning from you good sir ,thanks for sharing 👍.
Don't think Santa is going to be going down that chimney any time soon eh ..!
The rocket stove has so many ways to improve efficiency that no one has yet truly evaluated and made changes to the total efficiency of the unit. PERIOD ROBERT !!! I know one day that will happen and the stove will get "ALL THE RAGE AGAIN."
Good day to you Sir. Have yourself a Merry Christmas and A Happy New Year. I will bet you and I will attack the problem with gusto and surprise the critics.
I bet we will mate and all the best and have great one yourself - cheers
Darned fun to see a tent repurposed like this.
Kind of reminds me of some of the portable wet/dry tent sauna stoves that are more popular in eastern Europe with winter campers. they have a cage around the outside of the firebox which is often filled with river rocks (mass to capture heat and to pour water over to get a burst of steam). Some of the fancy ones have a hot water boiler attached to the side. Usually they are set up beside a lake so they can jump into the ice cold water to cool off.
They aren't rocket stoves, but adapting for a purpose like this is a fun path to discovery.
My own two cents for this design pathway. To further adapt the stove Robert is showing us here to radiant heat, I'd consider replacing the first (and maybe second) section of flue pipe with steel pipe. It would likely need an extra leg or two for support, but you'd get way more heat radiating out into the room than with the thin stainless steel.
I like that suggestion mate - you are right there really is quite a lot you could do with a stove like this
Im not sure why you want to turn a wood stove into a rocket stove. Rocket stoves are designed to create the most heat at the top of the chimney, out of the least amount of fuel, to cook your meals, all the heat goes up the chimney. For a heater you want to keep as much of the heat in the box as possible and still have enough to create a draft, so you slow the burn and add mass not insulation to the fire box. You can also add cooling fins to the chimney pipe as long as you dont pull too much heat from the gases and not allow them to escape..or am I just missing something
I am not sure either but folks do
Hello, to be clear I am talking about sub zero temperatures.
It would be interesting to see how you would go about converting it into a gravity-feed pellet stove by replacing the door.
I would actually cut a flap on top and fold that down at a little more than a 45° angle to feed longer wood or branches or you can make a simple drip feeder for pellets to drop down the flap too. You can use a metal rain gutter with the bottom end fabricated to let the pellets slip through into the rocket stove slowly. Just fill up the gutter with pellets and let it pour all night.
@@THEGLASSMANSWORLD Great idea . Do you think it would it be safe for indoor use ? Thanks 👍
@@duhhhh1723 I have a video called BACK TO NATURE: SOLAR WINDOW OVEN PART 8 where we build a huge 55 gal barrel rocket stove mass heater. As long as your vent tube and burn chamber and feed hole are all the same diameter, then the flow of exhaust should get pulled up and out through the smoke pipe and chimney.
I hate to be the negative Nellie... But running a thin walled steel stove as a high temperature rocket stove will quickly burn through the material of the stove. So, be extremely careful if you run a thin walled wood burning stove as a rocket stove inside.
This is why many of the stoves have super insulated heat riser for the secondary burn. Getting up to that temperature weakens the metal. Many of the rocket stove heaters I've built are made of insulative fire brick, and extremely sturdily built.
You can replace the thin wall stove pipe with exhaust pipe.
Would stainless flue pipe last?
@@nickkitchener6155 Exhaust pipe might last a little longer, but will still burn out. Metal just cannot take the high temperature that rocket stoves can produce.
@@blairleighton3343 Not much longer than ordinary pipe. Metal fails under high temp.
Yep - I don't know much actual science but I do know something that is not made to withstand such high temps and will burn out quickly if used as a rocket stove for too long. This stove is really only meant for casual camping. You'll need firebricks for it to take any sort of real heat on a regular basis.
Hmm… 🧐 it’s still terribly inefficient, letting the cool air flow underneath through the fire draws a lot of unburned gasses out, an easy fix is to put a piece of pipe on (2” or so) on top of the bottom plate allowing air to preheat thus combusting the gasses
cheers mate
Boy are you enjoying your self Robert loved the video i hope the stove company sends you some Dosh mate.
It's like cooking, you can use a recipe or look into your fridge and use whats available or what you like. For a Rocket stove you need enough Air and a long enough pipe for the "Rocket effect".
Would make a nice pizza oven for the summer too.
The tent stove is a great idea because it is portable and not perminant. Like what you were saying about your laws. Open a window, put a pre sized stub outside made of metal... I saw a guy run a flu sideways about 10 feet to catch the heat coming out of it before going outside. I don't know how risky that is, but it put a lot of heat off. It was all near the ceiling (way too close). Outside then up. It took up a lot of space.
If a rocket stove is just self stoking flame, hotter by design and burning off the gasses in a secondary burn...
Why does that secondary burn have to be up in the flu pipe? Could all the elements not happen laterally through a zig zag of plates and making the hottest part right under the flat top of the stove. More heat. There is room in that box for it. (removable)
I think I've seen you mention a similar thing in pipe. I'm just suggesting internal ducting plates. That would make the whole top a nice hot cooking surface.
Probably would melt the metal duct
probably mate but I always go for what I think is the easiest solution
In principle that might be some kind of rocket stove. Though the core of the rocket stoves shouldn't be made of metal. The core might get too hot and metals melts.
Thanks. I see a possible use with a scrap kitchen oven ?
Hello. Please could people raise awareness about the fact that not having the central heating on at all, when it's minus 8, + 10, as it has been in the last week, will cause burst pipes. It seems to be one of the top Google searches - Burst Pipes. Not one headline warning of this, not one energy company warning about it. All, just warm the person, not the house, so people who could not afford hundreds, are now facing £7,500 quotes for burst pipes. Plus, as this has happened to so many, the waiting time to have them fixed will be very long. To those it hasn't happened to, please warn others that you have to have it on, sparingly, first thing in the morning, and an hour in the middle of the day, and at night. Just so the pipes do not freeze. So sad that not one person, in all the research I have been doing has mentioned this. Thank you.
Thanks Rob! When you first brought out this stove, I thought that it was very close to a rocket stove to begin with. Just needed different and more airflow with insulation. So you just reinforced my thoughts on it with this video. I'm also thinking that if you make it work too well as a rocket stove you will melt it down. You could add more air intake points and expand your exhaust/stove pipe, but then again you would get a lot more heat. Maybe too much heat lol. Thanks for another great and interesting video Rob!
lolyou are spot on mate and yes too much air was a bit of a worry if I am honest lol
@@ThinkingandTinkering One thing to consider safety wise. If there is an stiff updraft following the outside of the pipe, it will make a forced draw and then a backdraft. Like blowing across a straw, it whistles. Best to work this thing with the door closed and maybe a shield of some sort out from the intake. There is also a problem in the exhaust as it has a short horizontal shot out of the burn chamber before heading up. That kink maybe a problem in windy conditions. A hot spot. Insulate it as well internally or it will likely melt. Make a note: this is why a well made pulse jet exhaust hooks back in the direction of it's intake. To make a hot spot inline with the backend of it's expanded burn chamber. Get a back flow from this and you will look odd without eyebrows for a bit. LOL
Given the blueing of that chimney, that looks to have been a good amount of heat from those ethanol tins and certainly enough to heat a room - how long did it burn for?
If there was a way to have this burn for a good few hours and give off a decent heat (even if not full rocket heat) using ethanol for indoors, I would genuinely be interested
Yes I wasn't sure if the blueing was just from the ethanol tins alone or whether Rob had already tested it by burning wood in it as preparation for this video segment. That does seem a lot of heat for essentially candles on steroids but if they do produce that much heat then it makes an ideal room heater with a clean burning fuel like ethanol.
You can limit the top exposure using something like a piece of aluminum foil. Ive heated a room for over 8 hours using a tall metal cup. Cover the top with the foil across the middle to setup the flame size. Careful with your fingers. A wick would probably be the best solution. I didn't have a wick at home. Worked well as it was. Long term is used a wick. Best price I found was around 60 for 5 gallons.
AWSUME Sir.Thanks for this years videos.great as ever.Merry Christmas to you.
Excellent video, so much so I tried to obtain the stove however they are sold out. How much revenue has this generated for vevor ???
I have no idea
Could you drill holes in the front of the drawer? That way you retain the ability to easily collect ash but also can draw air through it.
Rocket-man, glad your not an expert.
I never trust experts, they think they have learned everything and stop. It is at this point that truly intelligent people keep on going and find the really interesting stuff.
Please do watch out if you try using this with methanol, ethanol, or other fluids. If the fluffy insulation sucks it up, you have a gigantic torch out of control
Good point. I think firebricks or some form of high temp but solid concrete-like material would be safer - especially in inexperienced hands.
@@regwatson2017 I believe insulation should be placed outside the metal burning chamber. With a second metal cover, just like a double insulated pipe for the exhaust fumes.
@@paulbrouyere1735 Yes good point - I really don't know how long the stove would last with high heat from a wood fire - this is really meant for light camping. If you have wood stoves like we have here in Australia they are made from very heavy gauge steel protected by firebricks so I doubt the Vevor would last long with wood being burnt inside it.
@@regwatson2017 Very good point: light camping. So maybe it is not such a good idea to adapt it for heating your home without thoroughly redesigning the thing until it fits building regulations
burning this design (with the insulation) with methanol, ethanol or other liquid fuels really is a very bad idea - the whole point is the gasification of the wood - there is no point in trying gasification with methanol - it just doesn't need it - I am not sure why anybody would even want to do it
Hello Robert , my favorite built it Site , Bob the Builder ! Classic
Hi, I recently bought a 12v heated blanket. I'd like very much if you showed us one of your own design.
Thanks for what you do.
cheers mate
What about a copper coil round the chimney?
What about incorporating the tin can Stirling engine?
Are you into winter camping? That stove is already a serious piece of kit for winter camping, but if you could add a rudimentary boiler and a Stirling engine as easily portable add-ons, Vevor would have REALLY got their money's worth out of you. Such a camping stove kit would easily fetch £4or500.
How about a feedback loop like a controlled oscillating heating chamber?
So rob if there's 900 c on the chimney could that be used as a furnace and melt Ali and copper
I was thinking the same thing.
Haha how to turn everything into a rocket stove 😂 hero
I have an antique FATSO stove. I swear it's a rocket stove. If I can get it to draw correctly (I have 3 90Deg sections of stove pipe) it positively roars. Bet if I drilled some holes in the bottom of the first 90, it would turn the chimney red. It barely smokes now, once it gets going.
Why not put the insulation on the outside, to keep it from getting loaded up with soot and creosote, which might be dangerous?
no reason at all - it's just neater on the inside
very nicely done laddy
Ho ho ho. Now I understand the design of the Rayburn range I grew up sitting on the rail toasting my behind. 😆
what is the purpose of insulation in this stove?
Here's a build idea... an I type rocket stove made out of tin cans. It could be fed from the chimney.
But the heat won't be able to radiat from the stove an will all go up the chimney
Exactly my thoughts - great as a camp cooker with an adapter for kettles and frypan like Rob made but no good for serious convection heating. I really don't get the excitement of rocket stoves - except maybe for closet pyromaniacs who just like burning things with a bit of noise to it ! Give me real practicality any day.
ok - so what is your solution? I think it is fine to point out what you think are problems mate but I think it is infinitely better if you present a solution as well
@@ThinkingandTinkering don't make it into a rocket stove,keep it as a regular stove or put a metal fan where the ash tray goes
@@ThinkingandTinkering Here-Here! ,...... ya Hear¡ Ha-ha
You make this insulation from two modules ( parts cover by iron table ) . When you want to cook , you eliminate the part that's up . Or ,if you want heat to keep more ,put sand in this modules .
Rob appreciate this is about making a rocket stove but if people want the most practical heat from the Vevor as a room heater won't they get more heat from keeping heat in the larger chamber with a larger surface area in the room compared to just heat coming from the stovepipe ?
I have to admit, I am curious about that as well.
heat generation isn't a function of area mate - heat transfer is but the generation isn't - so a more 'complete' burn of the fuel is always going to generate more heat - the problem of exchanging it to warm a room is a different problem - but there are easy solutions and quite a few have already been suggested
@@ThinkingandTinkering Cheers for the reply.
Does your glass tube fit on this?
Put a heat powered fan on it
for sure
Why put the insulation inside the firebox? Maybe just wrap the outside.
Can you make a video on building a distiller to make the methanol/ethanol to burn?
I've been using the methanol from my distiller to de ice my car. Filled a squirty bottle with it. (not setting alight to it of course)
I love efficiency. Can't stand waste.
Such a shame so much energy is lost turning one type of energy into another...
done it already mate
In my mind a rocket stove must to burn wood and other materials without eliminate smoke to be capable to use inside,to have chimneys ,but ,to not eliminate smoke from this chimneys (2) . So,no outside of house ( apartment ) elimination of hot air . It's need more steroids : two chimneys, another iron cylinder with many holes inside to flow easy the air that come from external ventilation . Two fan ventilation's ,one at base in a circular way ( to make a circular air flow ) and another central . I think that maybe in this way,to eliminate smoke and use this stove for inside without holes in a wall for chimneys . I want to use a variety of materials and to not make smoke inside without to be need an evacuation from chimney to outside .
I not care to make economy at burning materials, because,are a lot here . Wood,paper, cartoons, clothes,books , and other materials ,you find enough here at garbage containers and not only .
I care more to not be smoke inside without chimneys .
@@tdoruignat8839 Burning stuff gives off Carbon Monoxide gas which is colorless and odorless. It's poisonous and will kill you. That's the main reason why you exhaust the burnt gases. You're treading on dangerous ground, dude I don't want to see you kill yourself or somebody else.
Tunes outside in the garage are still ripping , plow truck when this is over
No gasket on the door ?
Can it be converted for veg/used oil?
In the previous video about this stove Rob put his methanol burner (made from tin cans) inside, so yes. See his other videos.
Hvala.
Would you believe it's sold out on vevors website, lol
Turn it into a veg/waste oil burner, please
It eliminate up part of insulation and introduce an oil burner inside ,or it pass cooper tubes from insulation ( up part ) .
Awesome 👏
cheers mate
Please can you do another video? Imagine you don't have a lot of money. Gas and electricity is too much and you want to heat your home as cheap as possible all year round. What is the ultimate home heater you would use? 12v 8kw diesel heater run on waste oil? Log burner? Rocket stove? Methanol heater?
It would be a function of where you live and what's available in your area. I live in the countryside and can pick up a lot of twigs and branches just when I'm out walking. So my best bet is to find the most efficient way of burning it
Others can get used veg oil easily and cheaply.
if got wooden board and iron plate can fit maby the stove true a window
for sure
Without removing your footwear, how many "Rocket-Stoves" were in this Video ;-)
I prefer electric underwear. You get heat and an exciting jolt every so often.
Last snow was 8 inches of wet & heavy, by the time I was almost done , I skipped the front deck , and my dogs packed it down hard , I’ve learned this lesson before , not Again ! But I was tired ! That’s no excuse !
More like a "batch box" rocket stove.
for sure
I'm not an expert, but I think you used the word "pyrolysis" incorrectly in this video. Pyrolysis is the heating of an organic material in the absence of oxygen. That is not what is happening in this video.
You showed pyrolysis in action in your video 1707.
Just came in from shoveling , I’m sweating , like a obese guy at an all you can eat buffet ! Dripping almost ! The down your back kind , mini rain gutter at the small of your back , plan ahead !
💜👍💜👍🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
cheers mate
👍🙏
Well. Its supposed to also be for cooking.
I've been looking for a stove with a hotplate
That heats the hotplate before it goes up
The chimney.
I think I just worked it out.
Please build a giant strange engine !!! Oil drums maybe?
😲