Best way to set these up, install two of them, set the 1st one to 75, feed the 75 water into the 2nd one, and set your desired temp- being 120v and $160 - what do you expect, however $320 is not bad and with two, the water will come out piping hot every time
I considered that and the option of an tank inline with the tankless water heater. The attic of a home is typically 15° warmer than the house, so a small tank in the attic with no power feeding the tankless pre-warmed 95°-115° water would make for a good savings. Putting in a few valves to bypass the attic heater during the winter when the attic is colder than the ground water would make for optimized savings.
To switch it to C* you have to press the menu button and hold it while pushing the up or down to switch it. Hope that helps. And for the price of the vevor water heater I would go for the higher wattage ones like in your area I would get the 13Kw one and you would definitely reach your target temps. I run the 18Kw one in the northern Kentucky area and theres about 3 degrees difference in my target 132* at the shower which is about 12ft away.
Bro I bought the same thing ran it with a 70amp breaker because it calls for a 65 amp breaker witch they don’t sell and ran it with number 8 wire not 10 and this thing runs great heats my whole house even my power bill went down and was able to get rid of the gas but I bought the 13kw water heater
should have used solid copper, cant believe these flimsy terminals for such heavy wire, no wonder so many house fires, thanks for the video, why do the instructions say number ten wire for a 40 amp brkr ? , even google knows it should be number eight, maybe different in.China ?
I'm not sure why this would happen. The up and down arrows don't work? I would return it instead of trying to troubleshoot the inside. If it's out of warranty, teasing it apart is a bit cumbersome, but ensuring the connections are working would be a good start.
I'm not sure why that would happen. I am not aware of anything in it that would cause it to be blocked. Check to see that the water is flowing and that nothing is clogging the ports.
It does seem to take a while to ramp up. I imagine that, if this appliance turned the coils on full blast immediately then there is a risk of scalding. By ramping up slowly, it might seem safer and reduce the risk of litigation. Tank water heaters do not have this "safety feature". Hmmm.
There isn't much worth reading in the documentation. They have to be mounted upright. The controls are intuitive enough that no documentation is really needed.
Best way to set these up, install two of them, set the 1st one to 75, feed the 75 water into the 2nd one, and set your desired temp- being 120v and $160 - what do you expect, however $320 is not bad and with two, the water will come out piping hot every time
I considered that and the option of an tank inline with the tankless water heater. The attic of a home is typically 15° warmer than the house, so a small tank in the attic with no power feeding the tankless pre-warmed 95°-115° water would make for a good savings. Putting in a few valves to bypass the attic heater during the winter when the attic is colder than the ground water would make for optimized savings.
To switch it to C* you have to press the menu button and hold it while pushing the up or down to switch it. Hope that helps. And for the price of the vevor water heater I would go for the higher wattage ones like in your area I would get the 13Kw one and you would definitely reach your target temps. I run the 18Kw one in the northern Kentucky area and theres about 3 degrees difference in my target 132* at the shower which is about 12ft away.
Bro I bought the same thing ran it with a 70amp breaker because it calls for a 65 amp breaker witch they don’t sell and ran it with number 8 wire not 10 and this thing runs great heats my whole house even my power bill went down and was able to get rid of the gas but I bought the 13kw water heater
Where do you live that you need the 13kw version?
Pretty sure a seventy amp brkr needs a number four wire
@@SAPLSMW didn’t NEED but wanted that version
@@jandeband not according to the three electrical companies I verified it with
34 amps at 120 vac is just over 4000 watts. But that is just one leg add L1 and L2 gives you 8100 watts.
should have used solid copper, cant believe these flimsy terminals for such heavy wire, no wonder so many house fires, thanks for the video, why do the instructions say number ten wire for a 40 amp brkr ? , even google knows it should be number eight, maybe different in.China ?
Mine is stuck at 91 degrees, any ideal why?
I'm not sure why this would happen. The up and down arrows don't work?
I would return it instead of trying to troubleshoot the inside. If it's out of warranty, teasing it apart is a bit cumbersome, but ensuring the connections are working would be a good start.
Dangerous electrical info, a 40amp brkr requires a number eight wire 😮
Nothing will come out of mine
I'm not sure why that would happen. I am not aware of anything in it that would cause it to be blocked. Check to see that the water is flowing and that nothing is clogging the ports.
Alot of wasted water to get hot
It does seem to take a while to ramp up. I imagine that, if this appliance turned the coils on full blast immediately then there is a risk of scalding.
By ramping up slowly, it might seem safer and reduce the risk of litigation. Tank water heaters do not have this "safety feature". Hmmm.
Can’t read any of it, it’s out of focus
There isn't much worth reading in the documentation. They have to be mounted upright. The controls are intuitive enough that no documentation is really needed.
Vevor sucks im really startimg to belive this
It seems like they brand other OEMs' equipment and then sell it with a slight markup. I'm not sure if they make anything.