2001 to 2006 Caravan EASY Motor Mount Change Passenger Side PN EM-2926
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ธ.ค. 2016
- Description: This is a video how to change the motor mount on the passenger side of my Caravan with a 3.3L V6 engine. This should also apply to the 3.8L engine. Although this is a V6 the procedure should be the same for 4 Cyl engines but the mount part number will change. Hope this helps. The motor mount by part number applies to the 2001 to the 2006 Caravan, Town & Country, Plymouth Voyagers. So Even thought the procedure is on a 2002 Caravan the process should be almost Identical to it for your van. Let me know if it doesn't work on your van and I will adjust the title.
** Torques Spec on the mount: 50ft-lb per Haynes PN 30011 Chap. 2 pg. 2A-2 Engine Mounts (Right Mount) Engine Mount to Rail Fasteners. Although it says it's for the 4-Cyl the mount bolt locations on the frame rails are the same.
Part Used: Motor Mount by Prts4Plus Westar Industries
P/N: EM-2926 $26.21 eBay
Other P/N's that apply: A2926, 4861271AD & 700736867921
Tools I used:
- 8mm 3/8" drive Socket.
- 10mm 3/8" drive Socket.
- 6" 3/8" Drive Extension.
- 3/8" Drive Ratchet.
- 15mm 1/2" drive Socket.
- 1/2" Drive Ratchet.
- 4" 1/2" Drive Extension.
- 9" 1/2" Drive Wobble Extension.
- 2002 Grand Caravan Scissors Jack.
- 19mm Reversible Ratchet Combination Wrench.
- 4" x 3" 3/8" Plywood block.
- 6" Needle Nose Pliers.
- 4'x6' carpet to lie on.
- 1/2" Drive Torque Wrench capable of 50 ft-lbs.
Consumables:
- Blue Locktite by Permatex
Engine and Transmission/Transaxle four Mount Videos here.
Keep in perspective the Right Side refers to the Passenger Side and the Left Side refers to the Drivers Side of the vehicle.
- You can find the Front or Right Transmission Mount on my channel here: • 2001 to 2007 Caravan F...
- You can find the Rear Transmission Mount on YouFix N Save-Garage here: • Dodge caravan 2002 lef... Tell him Keith Noneya sent you.
- You can find the Drivers Left Transmission Mount on FatGuyBuilds here: • 2001-2007 Chrysler Tow... Tell him Keith Noneya sent you.
Thanks for Watching. Please give me a thumbs up if it helped you.
Also please subscribe if you'd like to help my channel.
Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Just did this job on my 2006 dodge grand caravan and it was real easy. Took me about 20 minutes.
Thanks for watching and glad it helped. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Thank u for this. I have a 2007 3.3l caravan i have to do. This was so helpful, subscribed!!❤
Ah I'm glad it was helpful for you. I saw a lot of videos and they just didn't seem to have it all in one and some of them were hard to follow, so I made one to cover all those basis. Don't forget to read the description, as there is a lot of useful information in there including on how to calibrate the system after your repair. Thanks for the thanks, watching and subscribing. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
I just did replace this one based on this kind of video. Many thanks for the great folks who share their experience. Saved lot of money. The vibration in the car is gone now. Not a big deal to replace it.
Ahhhh You're welcome Dave, glad to help. Thanks for the nice comment. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Dsve did it shake while running, even at a stop? Mine does that after I start it, but the engine sounds fine which is weird -_- ugh let me know if you get a free min
Very thorough and informative video. Fellow mechanics appreciate this. Well done sir
I'm going to buy a car that has broken motor mounts this informative video helped and thank you
There are four on the engine/transmission; 1. Passenger Motor mount. 2. Right Front Transmission ( The one on front behind the bumper. 3. Drivers Left Transmission. 4. Rear Transmission. There's actually only one on the motor, the rest are on the Transmission. Off all of them I would pay someone to do the rear transmission mount. I had a heck of a time doing it, and I have a lot of experience do automotive work. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Thanks for the videos Keith. Just changed both the front and passenger side mount yesterday on my 2005 T&C and it's really made a huge difference in the engine vibration. For the passenger side mount I had to raise the jack higher than the front mount to remove tension on the bolts holding the old mount. I also had to jack up my engine a full inch to get the new passenger side mount to fit onto the engine mounting point and get the bolts aligned. I was a little surprised until I saw that the old mount rubber had collapsed a full inch (13mm) after 14 years and 180K miles. Well worth the cost of the mounts and a couple of hours of my time. Thanks again for a great video!
Hey Gizmo, you're most welcome. Glad I could help. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Going to try this job this weekend. After watching this video my time will be thing being spent. I will keep the money for the pocket.
Thanks for a well made video it will help me when I do my motor mounts .GOD Bless. have a great day.
You're welcome Isael. I also have a video on the front Transmission mount video in my Caravan Playlist. Unless you have a LOT of experience doing mechanic work I don't recommend that you do the rear transmission mount on the drivers side. It's really hard to get to and you have to remove some of the emission components under the van to get to it. Of all the mounts this is one I would pay someone to do. If you do decide to do it get some ratchet combination wrenches and make sure the car is fairly high off the ground, just a few inches more that usual for under the car work. You will also need a small jack to jack up the back of the transmission so the cross bolt aligns. The other three are easy to get to and are not to hard to change. I don't have a video on the Drivers Transmission mount but there are a few videos on YT that do a good enough job. I have a Playlist of a lot of Caravan repair videos on my channel here: th-cam.com/play/PLVLXGvrQp0OsNcwRxmtCkZaF5cjnffAdW.html
I hope you get your van fixed and the videos are helpful to you. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya
Thank you so much the way you did it it look so easy
That's awesome I didn't know car scissors Jacks can be use to lift engines to change mounts. Most I've seen you tubers use floor jacks. It looks safe and sturdy rather than floor jacks failing. I'll try this method. Thanks bud
Not a problem. Yep the way I figured it is. If it can lift a whole side of a car including the engine to change a tire it can just lift the engine a few inches. Don't forget to put a small piece of plywood or a board under the oil pan so you don't punch a hole in it. Floor jacks are very reliable but I have heard of them failing and dropping a vehicle. Mine is well over 20 years old but doesn't leak. I think I'm going to replace it this year and give it to a friend who does car maintenance every once it awhile, but doesn't have a floor jack. Let us know how it goes. Thanks for watching.
Best Wishes and Blessings.
Keith,
Thanks for your prompt response. 50LBS is it for the Caravan 2002. Again, well done! Also, it might not be a bad idea to mention that the left mount is called a "transmission mount" instead of the left engine mount. For TH-cam mechanics like me, this created lots of confusion.
You're right again, I had just gotten lazy when I posted the name. I've updated the Description and listed videos to all for mounts. Thanks again for the tip. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
For guys like me, who don't always read directions, you must wait around 10 minutes after you apply the blue loctite before you assemble the bolts. I remember when loctite first came out, around 1969 & used it for the screws on my glasses!
They must have changed the formula, because if you wait that long now you might not get the bolt in without a lot of torque. I did what you said on accident a few years ago and I had to take it off on the wire wheel to get the bolt in. Thanks for the comment. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
God bless you too bro and I subbed. I was thinking of sharing Maintenance repairs I've done here on TH-cam too. I like the style you have with teaching. It's similar to my own, I like to be thorough so I dont have 100 questions afterwards and reduce it to like 5-10 questions lol.
Hi IDM. Doing vids on YT automotive maintenance is quite rewarding & helps so many folks who probably couldn't afford to get their vehicles fixed. It's also a great responsibility to try and keep your viewers safe. When doing them don't forget to do it safely, meaning keep in mind those who may attempt to do the repair may have little to no experience in automotive repairs. So you'll have to include as much safety information in them as you can while still making the video interesting and to keep their repairs safe. Not only safe for them but for others on the road after they complete the repairs and drive the vehicle on the road. This is especially true when it comes to steering and brakes, probably the most important parts on the vehicle. ALWAYS mention that if they're not familiar with the system they are working on to get someone who is experienced doing that type of repair. Or at least take it to a professional to get it done or have it checked out after they complete the repairs. It's one of the things I try to keep in mind when putting up automotive maintenance videos. Heck I've even had folks complain I put to much information in my video's. They say things like "Everyone know that", or say I talk to much. I just tell them the video is for everyone the novice and a refresher for the professional. Safety is more important than the money they will save or the money you make posting the videos. I hope your channel does well and my advice will keep you and your new viewers safe. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Nice video very well explained!
Thanks Terry. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Perfect tutorial 👌🏾
Thanks for the nice comment, glad it helped. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Muy buen video ,muchas gracias
Traductor de google. Me alegro de que te haya gustado el vídeo. Muchas gracias por mirar. Los mejores deseos y bendiciones. keith noneya
Google Translate. Glad you liked the video. Thank you very much for watching. Best Wishes and Blessings. Keith Noneya
Keith, thanks for this video. I never thought about buying parts on ebay. After watching this video I found a bunch of complete sets for under $80. I just thought I would find out how your mount is holding up before I pull the trigger on the cheaper parts. Thanks again for the great videos!
Hi Mark if you have any mechanical ability and are familiar with working on cars safely, jack stands, tools, batteries etc. you should be able to do them. The one I don't recommend is the rear transmission one next to the fire wall. I'd pay someone to do that one, seriously! It's very difficult to get to and you have to remove a few items from under the vehicle. Including some emission Items and possibly the battery tray, the exhaust cross over tube and the power steering reservoir. It's just a real pain in the butt. Anyways feel free to ask questions, i'll be happy to answer them. Thanks for watching and commenting. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith
Thanks for posting this. bout to tackle this for my 02 with the 4 cyl motor. so far two of the mounts are identical to the 3.3 kit. cant seem to find anywhere to verify what mounts go with my exact motor.... good problems to have.
When I run into that problem I search eBay and look at the picures and compare them with the part on my vehicle. Usually I figure it out after that. You can also do the same on the websites for auto parts stores like AutoZone, copy the part number and do a search on eBay. Hope that helps get you a list of part numbers you need. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Excellent video. Only thing I will add is the torque (Dodge Caravan 2002-50 lbs) on the screws. The tip on using Loctite drops on the screws is outstanding. When dealing with vibrations, we can not go on approximations. It needs to be exactly what the car calls for. Make sure you torque it.
Your comment inspired me to go see if I could find it in the Haynes manual. Here's what I found; ** Torques Spec on the mount: 50ft-lb per Haynes PN 30011 Chap. 2 pg. 2A-2 Engine Mounts (Right Mount) Engine Mount to Rail Fasteners. Although it says it's for the 4-Cyl the mount bolt locations on the frame rails are the same. Thanks for the tip. Best Wishes & blessings. Keith Noneya
Is the torque the same for all engine mounts on 2006 grand caravan???
01 dodge caravan jist changed spark plugs wires & coils and I still feel a vibration in idling and even in park , do you think it could be an engine mount ? I feel the vibration in the chair a lot and near the cup holders.
What is the symptom of this pass mount if worn out? I have a clunking (bang) when you go over a bump with the left (pass) tire, or fast rattling when I go over railway tracks. Note: going over same bump (my driveway entrance) with the right (driver's) tire = no clunking. Also I have unusual vibrations at various speeds. (mostly at 60 kph) Just had my front end (2007 Caravan SXT, 3.3L, not a grand Caravan) inspected and all brakes repaired. Also replaced all 4 tires and had an alignment. My mechanic says front end is "all tight" but I still have that clunk and vibration. THX in advance if you reply. PS> good video, but maybe symptoms of failure as to why your replacing these parts would be a great addition!
I too was having a clunk, and I was changing the transmission as well. So I figured I might as well change all four of them. My van has over 200,000 miles on it and all the mounts were bad. I also changed the lower control arms too and the swaybar bushings. Basically the whole front end was new by the time I got done. I thought my Lower Control arms were good but after I pulled them the rubber bushings were pretty worn. There is a transmission mount on the back of the transmission that mounts to the cross over frame. It's very hard to see if they are bad. You have to jack the car up put it on jack stands crawl underneath and have someone wiggle the engine back and forth. It's easiest to remove the front transmission mount bolt. Just be really safe and make sure you have the brakes set, I would say tow sets of jack stands and maybe even the jack with some light tension on it. Of all the mounts this is one I would pay someone to do if you can afford too. It is rally hard to do. Anyway I hope that answers you question. Feel fee to ask more if you like. Thanks for watching and the nice comment.
Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith
I'm curious. What lead you to replace this motor mount and wouldn't it be a good idea to replace all motor mounts at the same time?
I will use your video for reference purposes when I do mine.
Thanks for speaking clearly, keeping the camera as still as one can given what you were doing. Also very good lighting and explanation and I like the tools used part as well.
Thanks Gerry. You are absolutely correct. I had already changed the other three when I put a new transmission in the van. Three of the mounts are fairly easy to do. The Rear transmission mount is very difficult to do. I did a video for the front transmission/motor mount in another video here: th-cam.com/video/13uS2x7h5B0/w-d-xo.html. I haven't done a video for the drivers side transmission mount but if you know what to do it's not to bad. Thanks for watching and the kind words sir. If you have any questions feel free to ask.
Here's a link to my 2002 Grand Caravan Repair Videos in case you need to repair something else:
th-cam.com/video/WRqxQ8gt4QQ/w-d-xo.html
Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith
Im having a loud vibration when I'm at a red light , if you put it in park it goes away, wondering if this is motor mounts
That can be a lot of things.
1. It can be a mount, there are four:
a. the passenger side, in this video,
b. the front transmission mount, in another on of my videos,
c. a drivers side transmission mount and,
d. a rear transmission mount. If it's the rear transmission mount I would pay someone to do that one. It's by far one of the second most difficult things I've done on my caravan. Simply there is some much stuff you have to take out to get at it and half the time you have to do it by feel. The most difficult I've done is change the transmission, I'd pay someone to do that too, unless you have all the right tools to do it and it takes a lot of tools and time to do that job.
You can usually tell if you have a bad motor/transmission mount by having someone move the engine while looking at the rubber in the motor mounts. If you see cracks open up it can be a motor mount.
2. Some of the other things it can be is one of the emission sensors, like the IAC (Idle Air Control) on the throttle body, it gets clogged. Pull it and clean it with carb cleaner, then Seafoam the engine.
3. Another one is the crankshaft main bearing. They tend to vibrate under load and as you increase the RPMs it tends to level off.
4. If it's a rod bearing it rattles all the time and gets worse with increased RPM's, if it's that pull over and call a tow truck or you'll probably blow the engine permanently. It's more of a load knocking rattle than a vibration.
5. a week or in op fuel injector. As you step on the gas, because it's not feeding fuel properly the engine appears to be unbalanced due to all cylinders not firing. But when you put it in park the engine isn't pulling on the drive train so it appears normal. Most part stores will pull engine codes for free and if it's a bad injector or sensor, it usually shows up on the scanner tool.
I would take it to a repair shop and have them look at it. Most will give a free estimate or only charge you an hours labor to diagnose it. Well worth it if you're not sure. Then you can decide after doing some research if you'd like to try and tackle it. What ever you decide to do, make sure you do your research before spending a lot of money replacing good parts.
I'm sorry I can't give you a quick answer on that one. This answer should point you in the right direction. Hey you may post of video of it so others could see and hear it for some more possible answers. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya
Great vids! They helped me out big time!. Ive watch the vids for passenger side and front. Do you have vids on the other mounts?
Hi Wilie, sorry I don't have one for the other two yet. The Drivers Transmission Mount is a little more difficult in that you have to remove the battery and tray. With a little effort it's doable by most people with a little vehicle maintenance experience. However the Rear Transmission Mount is EXTREMELY hard to change. If there is any mount on this vehicle I would pay someone to do, it's that one. That rear mount requires extreme dexterity and extreme patients as well as the removal of some of the emissions items on the bottom of the van. Glad these two video's helped you. There are two channels that have those videos on line and discuss and show how to do them.
- The Rear Transmission Mount can be found here: th-cam.com/video/S8d2FvFQCf0/w-d-xo.html on YouFix N Save_Garage TH-cam Channel. A word of caution, I would use Jack Stands instead of that flimsy Screw Jack he used. Never crawl under a car without the proper support of jack stands. Hydraulic Jacks and Screw Jacks are NOT proper support. Your life is worth far more to you, your family & friends than any vehicle. In addition to his video to mount the shield I had to Tap the hole as the replacement didn't have threads in the hole.
- The Drivers Transmission Mount can be found here: th-cam.com/video/Z0acTic6J0Y/w-d-xo.html on
FatGuyBuilds TH-cam Channel. Hope that helps you. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Thank you for the help..ill pay someone for the other 2
Thank you for sharing the video of replacing the motor mount. What is the torque spec to tight the motor mount?
Hey Daniel I put that in the video Description along with some other good info. Here's the torque section of the description; "** Torques Spec on the mount: 50ft-lb per Haynes PN 30011 Chap. 2 pg. 2A-2 Engine Mounts (Right Mount) Engine Mount to Rail Fasteners. Although it says it's for the 4-Cyl the mount bolt locations on the frame rails are the same." so I think it would be the same as well. Hope that helps you get it done. Ps make sure and use some Blue LockTite or some Anti-Seize on the bolts so you can get them out next time. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Is the 2.8liter diesel town and country have the same engine mount with 3.8liter V6 town and country?
I don't think it does. The easiest way to check is to look it up at AutoZone or Advance Auto. Then take the Duralast or other part numbers and look them up on eBay. Compare the part numbers and you'll figure out which on is the one you need. Hope that helps point you in the right direction. Best Wishes and Blessings. Keith Noneya
Hey there where you getting a vibertaion only when on ideal ? Like stopping at a red light
Well I posted that video several years ago, but best I remember I was having it when I hit some bumps.
Please help, I have a problem ...
When I push brake on D or R, the RPM gets 500 and car starts vibrating, and also when I switch ON the air conditioning my carvibrating and making noise with more power ...but when I change to N or P the RPM gets 750 and the engine calms down...
what's can be the problem (sorry for my bad english)
Hi Di, there are a lot of things that can cause an engine to pulse under load, putting a demand for power on the engine. I could be as simple as a tune up, or a coil pack on the motor. Without being there to see and hear it would make it unlikely to help you pinpoint the problem. 1st do and ECM code pull and that will tell you if it's emission or ignition related. You can get your car engine codes pulled at just about any automotive parts store for free.
If you have a Dodge, Chrysler or Plymouth after 96 and it has the blue digital odometer in the gauge cluster and you can't get it to a parts store to pull the codes. You can pull the codes by turning the ignition switch (KEY ONLY) on and off three times and leave it in the ON or RUN position on the 3rd time. DO NOT start the car on any of the key cycles just put it to the RUN position. Then look at the blue lighted odometer just above the steering in the gauge cluster on the bottom, it will flash engine codes. Record them with your cell phone then write them down and look them up on line. If you can't afford a mechanic the purchase the sensor that says is bad and change it, Hopefully that should solve your problem. Here's an example of how to do it:
th-cam.com/video/DN14htXm8GU/w-d-xo.html If you have any more questions please feel free to ask. Best Wishes and Blessings. Keith Noneya
What is the torque on the bolts??
Keith, your van is in beautiful condition. I enjoyed this detailed video. I would like to ask, is this a "Usual" that goes, or are there others that make a "clunk" noise when you shift into drive or reverse? That's what I'm experiencing with my 2005 T&C.
Great question! No & Yes. The passenger motor mount & drivers transmission mount typically only clunks when it's driven and you hit a bump in the road. The Rear Transmission and Right Transmission motor mounts if bad can make a clunk when it's put in gear. There are also a lot of othr things that can cause a van to go clunk when putting it into gear, the CV Axles come to mind. Usually the fastest way to find out what clunking is put the emergency brake on, foot on the brake and have someone lie down NEXT to the van, NOT in front or behind it, then put it in and out of drive and reverse gear ONCE every five seconds. Then listen to find out what makes the noise. You can also put the van on "jack stands" NOT the car jack, and do the same thing if you have to crawl under it to find it. Just be safe and don't let the wheels spin. If you're not comfortable doing that, most transmission shops with give you a free drive train inspection, or one at low cost. Let me know if you have any other questions. Thanks for watching. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
@@keithnoneya Thank you for the reply Keith. The Cvjoints are both new, control arms, ball joints and bushing also are, (by Moog). Today I went down and had my son shift back and forth, drive and neutral and the engine does travel a good inch and a half. However, when I pulled out of reverse to drive, to get out the parking AND apply gas (accelerate), I always hear a metallic clink on the right side, my wife has heard it too. Now, Iv'e looked at this mount that you changed on your van, but I can't determine damage from just looking at it in its viewable angle. I checked the front lower mount and that one does show to be dropped, or not supported in the middle of its rubber, as when new. I also got thru putting on New Strut and links up front. I completely removed both rear wheel assemblies; Shield Plate, hub bearing, parking brake lever, parking brake shoes and hardware and replaced everything brand new. She runs awesome. But I need to find the damaged mount. Thanks for your help, be blessed and encouraged my friend.
The engine should move a little because of the torque when not under load. However the clink shouldn't be there.The front right transmission mount, sometimes mistaken as the front engine mount, it easy to pull off and inspect. The drivers transmission mount is a little more tricky but doable by you, if you did the previous work you mentioned. To get the lower bolt out you have to shift the transmission up or down, I don't remember that was a long time ago. Either way when you pull it you have to support the transmission. Also to do that one you'll have to pull the battery tray and I think the fuse box, I think. The fuse box is easy, after you pull a bolt to the right of it, it tilts up towards the engine. Then ALL the connectors just pull off after you activate the tab on them. When you go to put them back in clean them and put some connector grease on them. The rear transmission mount is a real bear, I don't have a video on that one. I would pay someone to do that one. If you decide to do that one, get some ratchet combination wrenches, and most likely you'll have to drill and tap the hole for the heat shield you take off the original. You'll also have to remove the LEAK DETECTION PUMP seen in my "2001 to 2004 Inner Tie Rod Change Drivers Side Part 1" video, it's at time index 4:32. There will also be some other emissions items you have to pull, and the clamps often just crumble, so you may need some new ones. Anyways this is getting wordy but I hope the tips help. Don't be shy about asking questions, I don't mind helping. Well gotta go. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
@@keithnoneya Thanks again. Yes, wifey advised me to let the shop handle that lower rear mount, which I agreed with her. I just hope the shop doesn't do a chipi-chapi job with heat shield etc. I am going to drop and check the front lower one, seems like the easiest. thanks again.
Yep I agree, the front one is a piece of cake. I have a quick video on that one on my website here: th-cam.com/video/13uS2x7h5B0/w-d-xo.html I would use some anti-seize on it when you put the bolts back in. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Hey Keith, how many engine mounts does the 2002 caravan have?? Great video by the way👌
Hi Elder, there are four total; Passenger (This Video), Front Right Transmission, Drivers or Left Transmission and the Rear Transmission. Of all of them I would pay someone to do the rear transmission mount as it's a real pain in the butt to do. You can find kits to all four on eBay. Thanks for watching. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Informative video, thanks a lot. I dont know if this is my solution tho. I have Voyager 2000 diesel with manual transmission. It feels like motor (now I think it might be transmission itself) dancing under the bonnet when accelerating and decelerating. Dunno what but something is moving strong enough to feel like hell. Also except the 1st gear all the rest makes noise when I depress the clutch, noise like clunking. So do you think I should go for mounts change?
Thanks in advance.
At this point it sounds like a throw out bearing is going out. I would take it to a transmission shop and have them check it out. Most shops will do a fee inspection. If it's a mount I would change them all except the back one behind the transmission. Pay someone to do that one as its a real booger and you have to remove some emissions stuff under the drivers floor board to get to it. I have video's on the Passenger Engine mount and the front left transmission mount (behind the bumper). I don't have a video on the drivers side or rear transmission mount. The one on the drivers side is a little tricky but no to bad. There are video's on line on how to do that one. Since I can't actually be there to diagnose it for you, it's best if you have a professional do that, then decide what's in your skill level. Feel free to ask more questions or even post a video with the sounds and explanations of what your van is doing. Let us know what it turns out to be and don't be shy on the questions, if I know the answer I'll do my best to answer them. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
@@keithnoneya Thank you very much for your kind answer. Im always willing to do everything on my own for 2 reasons. 1- I like the system which is try-fail-redo-success. 2- Im not in my home country, im living abroad and car mechanics here where I live are more than vultures. Of course there are good people with good skill but they are not always free and thats explains how good they are. Anyway, I have one mechanic who lives 55 km away from me, I will kindly ask him to take my van in sometime and diagnose that sound. I have another car, Peugeot 407 2.2 petrol with auto transmission, I have some questions about that car and I have images/video where everything looks clear but Im not sure if you would have knowledge about it (no offence, Im saying this because I contacted some people from Usa and they kindly told me that they are not familiar with french cars).
Best wishes.
I would try and find an import mechanic, if you're in the states, and have them look at it. AMCO transmissions with generally give you an inspection for free. I know mechanics can sometimes be expensive and there are some really shady ones out there. Most shops are very expensive because of taxes, insurance, the specialized tools they have to purchase. Plus they have to pay the mechanic even when work is slow. About 99% of the bill is just to keep the shop open and pay the mechanics. So when you go there you're paying for the convenience and knowledge they have not just a $10.00 dollar part, most people forget or don't care how much it really cost to keep a business open. I'm not a professional mechanic, although I've worked on vehicles on and off for over 30 years in my spare time. Usually just on my cars & trucks, but occasionally I work on friends vehicles too. Engine rebuilds, timing chains, belts, water pumps, brakes, steering, suspension, tuneups, AC & Heating and some electrical work. I generally haven't done is transmission & rear end rebuilds. Those take special tools and a little bit of knowledge that I didn't learn from my dad. My dad was a professional mechanic and he made me go to the shop on weekends and work on vehicles with him for free, LOL. I guess to keep me out of trouble, It mostly worked, and I picked up some skills too. So sorry I don't really have to much experience in transmissions. I've changed several but I've only rebuilt two manual transmissions, so that's the extent of the my transmission experience. Let me know if I can do anything else for you, I'm always willing to spend a little time to help a person out. My dad taught me that. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
@@keithnoneya I do know that its hard and expensive to keep the shop open but that absolutely doesnt put a mechanic in need of cheating. For example recently I left my Peugeot for secondary air injection problem and I got a bill for Air Pump replacement which cost me 250€. I took the car back and left at home and drove my van for 2 days, after 2 days my mechanic friend came over for a coffee and wanted to see the car and he told me that air pump hasnt been touched! And sound of it remained as loud as before. I still have the code btw. Im not in Usa, I contacted people from Usa before on youtube or via their websites. Im in east Europe. Back to having shop keep open thing, I would offer double price I swear only if I knew that double payment would pay off. But no, its possible that you might leave your car for fuel pump replacement and get it back without cat or replaced with old crappy one, that is possible around here.
My peugeot does have electrical problems (obviously since its Peugeot lol) and there is one weird thing is that somebody stuffed the breather oil hose with wire which is carrying out electricity somewhere. I posted on Quora and Peugeot forum and everywhere yet I got no positive respond. Everybody who saw it didnt say anything but they have never seen something like that before.
Recently im working on secondary air injection problem, thinking to get it diagnose more professionally and check the car with original Peugeot scantool Lexia or Diagbox.
Best wishes and hello to your great father!
Wow sounds to me like you have a lawsuit on your hands, or at least a story for the local newspaper or Tellie station to investigate. Hopefully the owner would fire the mechanic or loose his business license. My dad would be first in line to cheer that shops closure. Shops like that made being a mechanic hard for my dad. Get your mechanic friend to do some research for you or have him work on it. Of course, unless the car is special to you, maybe it's time to let the Peugeot go and get another car easier to fix or find information on. You could also post here on TH-cam with a title like; "Peugeot diesel engine dances when accelerating and decelerating". It really sounds like an engine miss. Could be a bad injector, ECM or a busted motor mount. Wish I was there I could look at least look at it. Keep me posted, you've got me curious. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
I have to replace my engine mount. I was told to replace them all. I have a 2014 crystler town and country van. I'm having a electrical problem too. Never ends. All the lights on the dash are litten up like a Christmas 🎄 tree. I tried too reset the computer, by taking off the power cable on the battery for a few hrs. It doesn't reset. Do you have any tips on how to do that???
You don't have to change them all. I have a video for two of them of on my channel. The two I don't have are the Drivers Left Transmission mount behind the tire and the Transmission Rear mount under the steering wheel. The Drivers one isn't to hard to do, but you'll need a floor jack to lift the engine and a large crow bar to move it down to get one of them in, best I remember. The rear transmission mount is probably one I would pay someone to do if it's needed. I did one and I don't think I'd ever do that one again, it was really hard to do. Those Instrument Panels have a connector on the back that shorts out due to the solder joints breaking and cracking. You may have to pull the Instrument Panel out and re-solder the connector. There's a few videos on TH-cam on how to do that. Hope that gives you some insight. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
What is the part underneath called which you said not to take the bolt off of. At 5:30 in the video
Sorry I don't know the name of that bracket. I just know that it's there so the Engine mount can attach to it. If you find out the name drop a link to it in the comments. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
I will use a bigger piece of plywood, say eight times the size you used, to distribute the wieght more evenly. And it really helps to make a list of everything you're going to need to do it right, and faster than the next guy.
The size of the plywood only needs to be big enough to cover the corner on the pan. If you do make the plywood bigger make sure and cut a notch out for the oil drain plug so it doesn't get smashed in. You're welcome for the list, both in the video and in the description below. Thanks for watching. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Keep in mind the all the other mounts are holding the engine secure He’s only holding only 20 lbs of pressure. I usually never use a jack unless most all of the mounts are totally trashed.
I would like to know how many motor mounts that I need for my Dodge Caravan 2005
Hi Roxie. There are four mounts that hold the engine and the transmission in place.
1. Passenger engine mount behind the passenger wheel in the engine bay, this video. Easy to change.
2. Front Trans-axle/Transmission mount, just behind the bumper on the bottom of the car. Easy to change. You can find that video on my channel in the 2002 Dodge Grand Caravan Sport playlist called, "2001 to 2007 Caravan Front Motor/Transmission Mount"
3. Drivers Trans-axle/Transmission mount, just behind the drivers tire and in front of the CV-Axles shaft. A little more difficult but doable by anyone who has some mechanical experience. I don't have a video on this one, but there are some on YT.
4. Rear Trans-axle/Transmission mount, behind the Trans-axle up under the firewall. Extremely difficult and complex to change. Of all the mounts I would pay someone to do that one, and I have 30+ years of working on cars as a hobby and out of necessity. It requires you to disconnect and remove some of the emission components and most of the time the hose clamps break. Also most of the time you are doing it by feel as you can't even see where you have to put the bolts. Very difficult to do unless you have experience with it. I don't have a video of this one either, but a guy named "Learn and Save Garage" on YT does.
I hope this answers your questions and then some. Please feel free to ask more if you like. I monitor my channel several times a day and should get back to you within several hours. Thanks for watching. Best Wishes and Blessings. Keith Noneya
3 motor mounts 2 in left and right 1 at the bottom
Quick question as in diagnosing my van right now. I have a caravan but virtually same exact engine I see no difference. Did your van shake when you started it up just sitting still?
No it didn't shake but I had a clunking sound. If you mounts are really bad that could happen I suppose. Put an OBDII scanner on it and pull the codes. There are four mounts in the van. Front transmission mount, Passenger Engine mount, right transmission mount and the rear transmission mount. Of all the them the rear transmission mount I would pay someone to do, it's a real B-osh, because you have to take out some of the emission parts on the bottom of the van. I only put videos up on the front and left engine mount. Hope that helps. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
@@keithnoneya the code said misfire on multiple cylinder. I changed the bbn plugs and wires. Goingbbn to do the fuel filter next and inspect for a vacuum leak. I just thought maybe the vibration was due to an insecure motor.
It's most likely the coil pack, they do go bad and they don't pop a direct code. They only pop the codes that are effected by it going bad, and one of those codes is multiple misfires. Unless you want to take it to a mechanic and have them put it on a scope, just buy a coil pack, and if it's not that throw the old one it in the back until you need it. The other most likely possibility is the ECM. I would try the coil pack first as they're not that expensive and easy to change. Hope that helps. Of course this is just my two cents worth so do your research first before you go out and spend a lot of money on parts. Best wishes & Blessings.
@@keithnoneya yeah it's just weird because the engine sounds fine, it just shakes. Which throws me off yet at higher speeds you barely feel it at all
Did you find out what was going on with it?
hey friend, can you tell me the torque specs for the bolts that are used in the motor mount? Cheers.
Hey Jaydem, I'll check for them when I get home from work today. If you don't want to wait just put some blue lock-tight on them and snug them up and then go about 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn more until you feel they're nice and tight. Don't go hog wild though, you don't want to snap them off. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Hey Jaydem I scoured the shop manual and those torque specs are not in the manual. I guess that's why I didn't use them in the video like I normally do. Sorry for the bad news. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
@@keithnoneya no worries pal. I noticed everyone just using threadlock and tightening them down by judgement as no one has mentioned a specific torque pressure. Thank you for your reply pal I greatly appreciate it!
Vibraton?? Driving at high speed?
Hum, there's a LOT of things that can cause that.
1. Tires: This is the most common cause of vibration at higher speeds.
If there is no loud noises or rumbling noises check the tires. Usually an older tire will start go out of balance or start to come apart and cause some heavy vibration.
2. Motor Mounts: Block the tires. Jack the van up and have someone move the engine front to back. While that's being done crawl under it and check the four motor mounts: Front center next to the front bumper, passenger by the belts, drivers behind the drivers wheel and the back center between the drivers firewall and the transmission, very hard to see. Make sure you have the jack stands under the car frame behind the front wheels and have the hydraulic jack under the cross member in case the jack stands fail. I don't want any viewers getting crushed. Have a friend help you if you're not familiar with jacking a supporting vehicles for maintenance.
3. CV Axles: Drive the car at low speed and make sharp turns. If you hear a clicking sound or binding then you may have a bad CV Axle. Then drive it at around 20 miles per hour and make sharp turns, don't roll the car over on its side though, if you hear a rumbling or feel a vibration it could be a CV Axle.
4. Front Lower Control arms: Jack the car up and support it on the frame behind the tires. Pull the tires on the front and move the Lower Control Arms front to back while checking the bushings where the Control Arm connects to the frame.
5. Wheel Hubs: Jack the car up and support it on jack stands. Grab the top and bottom of the tire and pull the top out away from the car and push the bottom towards the car. Do this repeatedly in and out and you shouldn't feel or hear any clunking.
6. Inner & Outer Tie Rod Ends: Jack the car up and support it on jack stands. Grab the font and back of the tire and pull the front out away from the car and push the back towards the car. Do this repeatedly in and out and you shouldn't feel or hear any clunking. If you do you either have a bad Wheel Hub as described in no. 5 above or you have a bad Tie Rod end. I have a video on that: th-cam.com/video/51-prNCKAfU/w-d-xo.html It discusses both inner and outer Tie Rod End replacement.
If you're not mechanically inclined there's always the repair shop. Pay them to do an inspection only. After they tell you what the problem is you can decide if you would like to tackle the problem yourself or have them fix it. Hope that helps point you in the right direction: Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Salut comment pui-je m'aider j'ai une voiture dodge caravann 2002 chaque fois le moteur est en marche depuis que je tourne le volent le moteur est eteint
Google Traduction; Salut Resan TV, Il existe de nombreuses raisons pour lesquelles un véhicule fera cela. Vérifiez si vous avez la lumière du moteur sur le tableau de bord. Si vous avez un voyant de contrôle du moteur, connectez un lecteur de code OBDII sur le connecteur de diagnostic OBDII sous le volant. Il vous dira si vous avez des codes moteur. Remplacez ensuite la partie à laquelle le code est associé à ce code. Faites une vidéo de ce que fait votre camionnette et publiez-la sur votre chaîne. Envoyez-moi le lien vers votre vidéo et j'essaierai de vous donner quelques idées de ce qu'il faut vérifier. Meilleurs voeux et bénédictions. Keith Noneya
Google Translate; Hi Resan TV, There are many reasons that a vehicle will do that. Check to see if you have Engine Light on the instrument panel. If you have a check engine light, connect a OBDII code reader on the OBDII diagnostic connector under the steering wheel. It will tell you if you have any engine codes. Then replace the part that the code is associated with that code. Make a video of what your van is doing and post it on your channel. Send me the link to your video and I will try to give you some ideas of what to check. Best Wishes and Blessings. Keith Noneya
Are you in VA?
Hey Shonna I'm in Louisiana. If I can I help you with something, just let me know.
Thanks for watching. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Whats torque??
I put it in the Description in the video when I made it, but to save you time here it is with a reference for it from the description below. "** Torques Spec on the mount: 50ft-lb per Haynes PN 30011 Chap. 2 pg. 2A-2 Engine Mounts (Right Mount) Engine Mount to Rail Fasteners. Although it says it's for the 4-Cyl the mount bolt locations on the frame rails are the same." On a side note on almost all my video's try to put; Parts List, Tool List, Consumable List, Alternate or special Tools List, and sometimes a Chemical list, or links to the items where to get them and how much they cost. If you need anything, just let me know bud. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Wow i thought there was more mounts other than just one
There are four in total, this one and three more, they are:
- The Front Engine/ Left Transmission Mount can be found on my channel here: th-cam.com/video/13uS2x7h5B0/w-d-xo.html
- The Drivers Transmission Mount, it's a little more difficult in that you have to remove the battery tray and jack the corner of the transmission up a little to get a bolt out. With a little effort it's doable by most people with a little vehicle maintenance experience. It can be found here: th-cam.com/video/Z0acTic6J0Y/w-d-xo.html on FatGuyBuilds TH-cam Channel.
- Rear Transmission Mount is EXTREMELY hard to change. If there is any mount on this vehicle I would pay someone to do, it's that one. The rear mount requires extreme dexterity and extreme patients as well as the removal of some of the emissions items on the bottom of the van. It can be found here: th-cam.com/video/S8d2FvFQCf0/w-d-xo.html on YouFix N Save_Garage TH-cam Channel.
A word of caution, I would use Jack Stands instead of that flimsy Screw Jack he used. Never crawl under a car without the proper support of jack stands. Hydraulic Jacks and Screw Jacks are NOT proper support. Your life is worth far more to you, your family & friends than any vehicle. In addition to his video, on replacement mount I had to Tap the hole for the shield because the replacement didn't have threads in the hole. Hope these two video's helped you. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya