I needed to replace the transmission in my daughters 2006 Mazda 6 and followed your lead on what to remove. Your instructions were very clear and to the point. I appreciate you didn't talk about frivolous stuff and just explained what needs to be done. Well done!!!!
Bro thanks to this video I did a successful change on the exact model...but I tilted the motor to the passenger side till it touched the pullys and slipped the trans straight up...if any body tells you 8hrs to do this.....it's a lie..took me 4 days (6 hrs a day) so it's a 24hr job literally..guys you will need a 10mm a 12mm(used alot) 13mm 14mm 15mm 17mm(mostly suspension) 18mm (engine mount) be very carefully with your lines and PLEASE GUYS EVEN IF IT YOUR FIRST TIME SEPARATE YOUR BOLTS..THERES ALOT THATS THE SAME SIZE AND THE THREADS LOOK THE SAME TOO... THANKS BRO
I couldn't have said it better great job on the replacement . It's definitely a big job and the more time you spend prepping labeling etc makes it easier going back in for sure. Thanks for sharing and thanks for watching .
Great video, nice detail. I would watch the excess rtv used. What you see ooze outside also oozes inside pan and can get sucked up in filter reducing flow....
This is a fantastic step by step example. Great job seriously. Only question is the smaller hose in the upper radiator from I believe behind the EGR valve. It runs under the air box following that larger hose, where does that small line connect?
Thats the small coolant hose that runs to the throttle body. They started putting that on alot of these newer cars , suppose to keep the air coming through cool etc. The previous owner had broken the small spout off of the radiator and stuck a bolt in it to plug it off. I replaced the radiator but never even bothered hooking it up because it was working just fine without it . However it would have been no problem to hook it up . Great question . Thank you for the feedback and for watching .
Heard on that! So assuming here that we got this all set up correctly... Being as my Mazda is currently sitting in my garage torn apart. Next to the radiator fill cap there is a small hose and a large hose, both on the driver side of the vehicle, this would be the hose I was referring too. I found out that there is a small plastic nozel that had been broken off! Oh no! So now I have to get whole new radiator! PS. As a fellow TH-camr lol, you had the ONLY video on here that showed exactly all the steps I needed whereas others did not
Sir the nuts and bolt are messed up because you are using standard tools instead of Milimetric. Those are supposed to be 12 14 16 and 18 sizes not the standard sizes. Great informative video nonetheless
Hi there I recently bought a replacement engine for my 2006 Mazda 6 2.3l and I was wondering when I go to remove the trans from the old engine if there is anything I need to know about when mating it to the new engine. I was told that I would need to make sure to have the engine at TDC or something before mounting and to buy some kind of crank pully tool but they were not very clear and after watching a bunch of videos including yours and looking online I could not find anyone else saying the same thing. so I guess my question is, do I just unbolt my trans like you did by removing the bolts through the starter hole on the flywheel and is as as simple as just bolting it right back onto the new one? your video was great and it is helping me a lot doing this engine replacement on my own. Hopefully you can get back to me! Thank You.
Great question. You are correct there is no special tools or special procedure. As far as the crank pulley the only thing you need to do is hold the crank bolt while tightening the torque converter bolts. Great job tackling this project and thank you for watching.
It sounds like there is not enough fluid in the transmission. Seems like mine required 13 qts to get it to proper level if my memory serves me right. I know it was completely drained from being shipped. Other than that I would be leaning towards a defective transmission. Maybe double check everything that nothing was missed . Flex plate bolted to torque converter. And all other wires and cooler hoses. Wish I could be more help . Thank you for watching.
About to be doing this in the same model car. First big project in a car. I’m 18 and its my first car. I’ve worked on small engines for awhile and know my way around cars (to a point) any tips? I will definitely be labeling everything and taking photos too Lol.
Sounds like you have a good attitude and a plan and that is a great start. Along with labeling everything , take your time . Also never be afraid to step away from it for a break. As long as everything is marked , labeled going back will be a breeze. Try to get any and all parts you may need ahead of time. Torque converter seal , rear main seal, cv axle seals etc , if needed. Best of luck on this project and hope all goes smoothly. Keep me updated , thanks.
@@s33therfan thanks man. I may end up videoing parts of it with my go pro to show how I do it. I’m going to be dropping the subframe if I just do the transmission. I may be able to get a lower mile engine from a ford fusion to throw in. Great video btw
Great video...very informative and step by step,Thank You. Maybe you can answer a question for me. I have a 2005 Mazda 6 that was towed backwards and then something blew and fluid was gone everywhere. We were able to put it in gear and pull it off the dolly. Going to check it today... Any words of wisdom? THANKS.
I wouldn't recommend pulling one very far with the drive wheels contacting the ground. I really don't know what could have blown unless the power steering reservoir for power steering over pressurized . I ran off the in the ditch one time and somehow blew mine years ago , in a different vehicle . Wish I could be of more help , thanks for the feedback and thank you for watching .
Hey about how many qrts of fluid did it take to fill the transmission? I did a replacement and its starts up and runs but I'm only going into 2 and 3 and my at light is on. I been watching this video over few times to see if I missed something
It was quite a bit because it was completely empty when shipped but i cant recall . I want to say it was atleast 8 quarts. You migbt double check some of the connections for the speed sensors etc make sure they are good and tight and nothing missed . Theres atleast a couple of sensors way in the back i know ive missed one before. If the transmission is warm and its within range on tbe dipstick and all the connections are good there could be a problem with transmission. If its a known good transmission then maybe possible tcm issue . Hope this helps and thank you for watching .
Watch "Mazda 6 drivers cv axle" on TH-cam th-cam.com/video/jS1y0dBz0DM/w-d-xo.html Watch "Mazda 6 passenger cv axle" on TH-cam th-cam.com/video/N2bX1D6QkLo/w-d-xo.html Heres the links I made the videos seperate to try and keep the length down of the video. The passenger side cv axle was really involved because it seized in the hub. Thanks for watching
Yes . It just may require more removal from the front of the engine to gain clearance. I have done this on a minivan with less room , so I know a Mazda 6 should be doable. Thanks for the feedback.
As far as the short answer it would be no , however the block is the same 2003 2008 . They made changes through the years with the cam , fire trigger, and possibly sensors connectors . It would require some minor swaps and changes and myself I do not know the specifics . I would stick to the same year just to avoid any extra work or issues. Thank you for watching.
If yours has the 2.3l it will be but if yours has the 3.0l it will be more crowded . The transmission is different but overal the principle will be the same pulling the engine out the top . Thanks for watching
No , it's just shy of 200k and still runs perfect. Even with the prior ownership lack of oil changes , it's still going strong . Thanks for checking out the videos .
It sounds like a likely candidate, if the engine is great otherwise it may be well worth replacing . I'd sure go oem or at least some very high grade aftermarket . Thanks again
Hi! Great video, I wanted to know if this is pretty much the same procedure for a automatic 2006 mazda 3 . It's a 2.0 and I purchased a guaranteed used trans. I'm just wondering if it's the same crowding as in this car your using? With that being said I'm trying to find a mechanic with the right price. What labor price should I look for when replacing my own? This is so expensive but definitely better than getting it new or rebuilt.
Yes , the motor and transmission are pretty much the same. I would say that the mazda 3 to me was way easier for some reason and seemed more roomy . But definitely not any more difficult. The mazda 3's are great cars and the 2.0l in particular gets great mpg. Hope all goes well with the replacement and thank you very much for watching.
Thank you for watching , this was a fun project and it really went really smooth. Update the transmission is still working great also . I appreciate the feedback and have a happy thanksgiving
Man ive been without my truck for about 3 months.i could use some explaining to me how to put it in time.its the 4.7 with 2 overhead cams.and it does start but it tries to idle at about 2 grand and the shuts off after bout 3 secconds.and ik i got a vacume leak.but ik were it is.i jus really need it in time.but idk how to do it.and the mechanic shops around here wont touch the truck
Go and buy a service manual for your truck. Look at the engine schematics and try to find the vacuum lines. Trace out each line, spray some water on them *carefully* and see if it air causes the water to move or bubble over.
You can but you will have to remove the sub frame first , then work the tran out from underneath . I have not tried it this way so I cant really speak to the difficulty level. Seems like i was going to try that and it appeared to be way more trouble and work.Theres not a lot of wiggle room for separating the two. Best of luck on your project and thank you for watching.
As far as I know they won't work , unless you're talking a manual transmission. The auto are different , they also started using a tcm in 2006 I believe . Thank you for watching
I would immediately get the transmission fluid up to the proper level at least until I could fix the leak . If it's just the pan I'd change the filter while I was at it and use some gray rtv and let that cure up for 24 hours . That's what I used on mine and there's zero leaks. Hopefully the low fluid hasn't ruined the transmission, but I'd also brace myself for the possibility. I been there before had a leak on my grand prix and before I even realized it the transmission was toast . Hope this helps and thanks for watching
I had found this transmission for around 500 on ebay. Now there are other miscellaneous expenses such as cv axle seals trans filter , fluid . And why you have the engine out its not a bad idea to spruce it up with new seals intakes etc. Hoses . 200 in miscellaneous easily. So my cost around 700 total doing it all myself . You could opt to have a shop slap a used one in for you , almost always cheaper than a rebuild but not as good . Just depends on what type of budget you want to stay within. Anyways thank you for checking out the video .
I needed to replace the transmission in my daughters 2006 Mazda 6 and followed your lead on what to remove. Your instructions were very clear and to the point. I appreciate you didn't talk about frivolous stuff and just explained what needs to be done. Well done!!!!
Thank you very much for the terrific feedback , it is much appreciated.
how much was the trans i have same car bouta replace mine has 220k miles
Bro thanks to this video I did a successful change on the exact model...but I tilted the motor to the passenger side till it touched the pullys and slipped the trans straight up...if any body tells you 8hrs to do this.....it's a lie..took me 4 days (6 hrs a day) so it's a 24hr job literally..guys you will need a 10mm a 12mm(used alot) 13mm 14mm 15mm 17mm(mostly suspension) 18mm (engine mount) be very carefully with your lines and PLEASE GUYS EVEN IF IT YOUR FIRST TIME SEPARATE YOUR BOLTS..THERES ALOT THATS THE SAME SIZE AND THE THREADS LOOK THE SAME TOO... THANKS BRO
Forgot about the 8mms lol
I couldn't have said it better great job on the replacement . It's definitely a big job and the more time you spend prepping labeling etc makes it easier going back in for sure. Thanks for sharing and thanks for watching .
Great video, nice detail. I would watch the excess rtv used. What you see ooze outside also oozes inside pan and can get sucked up in filter reducing flow....
A really hard job your most did un this car, excelente !
Thanks a lot!
This is a fantastic step by step example. Great job seriously. Only question is the smaller hose in the upper radiator from I believe behind the EGR valve. It runs under the air box following that larger hose, where does that small line connect?
The same small line I am referring to is shown in 46:49 with a silver looking cap on it
Thats the small coolant hose that runs to the throttle body. They started putting that on alot of these newer cars , suppose to keep the air coming through cool etc. The previous owner had broken the small spout off of the radiator and stuck a bolt in it to plug it off. I replaced the radiator but never even bothered hooking it up because it was working just fine without it . However it would have been no problem to hook it up . Great question . Thank you for the feedback and for watching .
Heard on that! So assuming here that we got this all set up correctly... Being as my Mazda is currently sitting in my garage torn apart. Next to the radiator fill cap there is a small hose and a large hose, both on the driver side of the vehicle, this would be the hose I was referring too. I found out that there is a small plastic nozel that had been broken off! Oh no! So now I have to get whole new radiator!
PS. As a fellow TH-camr lol, you had the ONLY video on here that showed exactly all the steps I needed whereas others did not
Imma use this video as a reference for my 626 cuz I need to replace that
Thank you very much for watching.
Sir the nuts and bolt are messed up because you are using standard tools instead of Milimetric. Those are supposed to be 12 14 16 and 18 sizes not the standard sizes. Great informative video nonetheless
Hey I have a 2006 mazda 6 3.0l and the output speed sensor is no good. Can you tell me where it goes. I can't find it.
how many did it take total ?
Hi there I recently bought a replacement engine for my 2006 Mazda 6 2.3l and I was wondering when I go to remove the trans from the old engine if there is anything I need to know about when mating it to the new engine. I was told that I would need to make sure to have the engine at TDC or something before mounting and to buy some kind of crank pully tool but they were not very clear and after watching a bunch of videos including yours and looking online I could not find anyone else saying the same thing. so I guess my question is, do I just unbolt my trans like you did by removing the bolts through the starter hole on the flywheel and is as as simple as just bolting it right back onto the new one? your video was great and it is helping me a lot doing this engine replacement on my own. Hopefully you can get back to me! Thank You.
Great question. You are correct there is no special tools or special procedure. As far as the crank pulley the only thing you need to do is hold the crank bolt while tightening the torque converter bolts. Great job tackling this project and thank you for watching.
Doing one of these and can't see to get the wheels to drive or any fluid to pump. Any help would be much appreciated
It sounds like there is not enough fluid in the transmission. Seems like mine required 13 qts to get it to proper level if my memory serves me right. I know it was completely drained from being shipped. Other than that I would be leaning towards a defective transmission. Maybe double check everything that nothing was missed . Flex plate bolted to torque converter. And all other wires and cooler hoses. Wish I could be more help . Thank you for watching.
Got a lot in there. Even sent some atf directly down the lines
About to be doing this in the same model car. First big project in a car. I’m 18 and its my first car. I’ve worked on small engines for awhile and know my way around cars (to a point) any tips? I will definitely be labeling everything and taking photos too Lol.
Sounds like you have a good attitude and a plan and that is a great start. Along with labeling everything , take your time . Also never be afraid to step away from it for a break. As long as everything is marked , labeled going back will be a breeze. Try to get any and all parts you may need ahead of time. Torque converter seal , rear main seal, cv axle seals etc , if needed. Best of luck on this project and hope all goes smoothly. Keep me updated , thanks.
@@s33therfan thanks man. I may end up videoing parts of it with my go pro to show how I do it. I’m going to be dropping the subframe if I just do the transmission. I may be able to get a lower mile engine from a ford fusion to throw in. Great video btw
Great video...very informative and step by step,Thank You. Maybe you can answer a question for me. I have a 2005 Mazda 6 that was towed backwards and then something blew and fluid was gone everywhere. We were able to put it in gear and pull it off the dolly. Going to check it today... Any words of wisdom? THANKS.
I wouldn't recommend pulling one very far with the drive wheels contacting the ground. I really don't know what could have blown unless the power steering reservoir for power steering over pressurized . I ran off the in the ditch one time and somehow blew mine years ago , in a different vehicle . Wish I could be of more help , thanks for the feedback and thank you for watching .
Lots a beer and weed or whatever you do your going to need it lol.. labor will be alot
Hey about how many qrts of fluid did it take to fill the transmission? I did a replacement and its starts up and runs but I'm only going into 2 and 3 and my at light is on. I been watching this video over few times to see if I missed something
It was quite a bit because it was completely empty when shipped but i cant recall . I want to say it was atleast 8 quarts. You migbt double check some of the connections for the speed sensors etc make sure they are good and tight and nothing missed . Theres atleast a couple of sensors way in the back i know ive missed one before. If the transmission is warm and its within range on tbe dipstick and all the connections are good there could be a problem with transmission. If its a known good transmission then maybe possible tcm issue . Hope this helps and thank you for watching .
Did you not have to take out the CV axles when removing the engine?
Watch "Mazda 6 drivers cv axle" on TH-cam
th-cam.com/video/jS1y0dBz0DM/w-d-xo.html
Watch "Mazda 6 passenger cv axle" on TH-cam
th-cam.com/video/N2bX1D6QkLo/w-d-xo.html
Heres the links I made the videos seperate to try and keep the length down of the video. The passenger side cv axle was really involved because it seized in the hub. Thanks for watching
Can the motor be takean out by itself
Yes . It just may require more removal from the front of the engine to gain clearance. I have done this on a minivan with less room , so I know a Mazda 6 should be doable. Thanks for the feedback.
the fog lights, does not look like a 06~08 model, but very good video
Great video very helpful thanks , I need help, will a 05 Mazda 6 2.3 engine fit on my 07 Mazda 6 ?
As far as the short answer it would be no , however the block is the same 2003 2008 . They made changes through the years with the cam , fire trigger, and possibly sensors connectors . It would require some minor swaps and changes and myself I do not know the specifics . I would stick to the same year just to avoid any extra work or issues. Thank you for watching.
will this also apply for a 2006 Mazda 6 station wagon automatic?
If yours has the 2.3l it will be but if yours has the 3.0l it will be more crowded . The transmission is different but overal the principle will be the same pulling the engine out the top . Thanks for watching
Excellent job!
Thank you very much for the kind words and thanks for watching
I have a 2007 Mazda 3..transmiasion is gone..can I replace it with a 2009 transmission? Thanks for the vid man..helps me out.
Yes it should work fine . Thank you for watching
How many miles now on the 2.3? Have you done anything on the engine like replace the chain or the guides?
No , it's just shy of 200k and still runs perfect. Even with the prior ownership lack of oil changes , it's still going strong . Thanks for checking out the videos .
s33therfan I’m having a cold start rattle on my 2.5 during winter. I wonder if my tensioner or guides are going out.
It sounds like a likely candidate, if the engine is great otherwise it may be well worth replacing . I'd sure go oem or at least some very high grade aftermarket . Thanks again
Hi! Great video, I wanted to know if this is pretty much the same procedure for a automatic 2006 mazda 3 . It's a 2.0 and I purchased a guaranteed used trans. I'm just wondering if it's the same crowding as in this car your using? With that being said I'm trying to find a mechanic with the right price. What labor price should I look for when replacing my own? This is so expensive but definitely better than getting it new or rebuilt.
Yes , the motor and transmission are pretty much the same. I would say that the mazda 3 to me was way easier for some reason and seemed more roomy . But definitely not any more difficult. The mazda 3's are great cars and the 2.0l in particular gets great mpg. Hope all goes well with the replacement and thank you very much for watching.
Beautiful job
Thank you for watching , this was a fun project and it really went really smooth. Update the transmission is still working great also . I appreciate the feedback and have a happy thanksgiving
Man ive been without my truck for about 3 months.i could use some explaining to me how to put it in time.its the 4.7 with 2 overhead cams.and it does start but it tries to idle at about 2 grand and the shuts off after bout 3 secconds.and ik i got a vacume leak.but ik were it is.i jus really need it in time.but idk how to do it.and the mechanic shops around here wont touch the truck
Go and buy a service manual for your truck. Look at the engine schematics and try to find the vacuum lines. Trace out each line, spray some water on them *carefully* and see if it air causes the water to move or bubble over.
So to remove the transmission, you had to remove the engine too? I was hoping to just remove the transmission.
You can but you will have to remove the sub frame first , then work the tran out from underneath . I have not tried it this way so I cant really speak to the difficulty level. Seems like i was going to try that and it appeared to be way more trouble and work.Theres not a lot of wiggle room for separating the two. Best of luck on your project and thank you for watching.
@@s33therfan thanks for the reply. Sounds like I may be pulling both then. Thanks for the help.
Can you use a 04 tranmisson
As far as I know they won't work , unless you're talking a manual transmission. The auto are different , they also started using a tcm in 2006 I believe . Thank you for watching
Para que desalmar tanto. Con sacar el microchacis o la cuna sale por debajo
So basically, the whole front of this car has to be taken off in order to replace a transmission???
I have the exact same car my AT warning ⚠️ popped up and it’s leaking at the bottom what should I do man
I would immediately get the transmission fluid up to the proper level at least until I could fix the leak . If it's just the pan I'd change the filter while I was at it and use some gray rtv and let that cure up for 24 hours . That's what I used on mine and there's zero leaks. Hopefully the low fluid hasn't ruined the transmission, but I'd also brace myself for the possibility. I been there before had a leak on my grand prix and before I even realized it the transmission was toast . Hope this helps and thanks for watching
How much does this cost?
I had found this transmission for around 500 on ebay. Now there are other miscellaneous expenses such as cv axle seals trans filter , fluid . And why you have the engine out its not a bad idea to spruce it up with new seals intakes etc. Hoses . 200 in miscellaneous easily. So my cost around 700 total doing it all myself . You could opt to have a shop slap a used one in for you , almost always cheaper than a rebuild but not as good . Just depends on what type of budget you want to stay within. Anyways thank you for checking out the video .
Get ready for 24hrs in labor cost..took me that long
That should came off the thru the bottom