If the low beam light is drawing 1.6 Amps, then it is not 33w. If we assume your battery had 12v, then 1.6 Amps equates to 19 watts on low beam. On high beam, you were drawing 2.3 Amps ... 27.6 watts in total. 19 watts of which was the dedicated low beam. So the high beam is less than 9 watts. So the actual power of those lights seems to be a 19w low beam and an 9w high beam
Yes, that was exactly the reason I showed the current. But the 33W printed on the LED unit is just nominal power and actual power can vary depending on voltage, resistance in the cables etc. To me the nominal power of the light in watts is not interesting at all. And not even the actual power in watts. What makes difference is the volume of light it creates and how little current it is taking. Unfortunately couldn't find a reliable way to measure light volume. :)
@@ratracerunaways1779 Light output of a light source is related to how many watts the light is consuming vs its efficiency. Thats why it is relevant - Light output is an essential feature of a light - I would like to think most people would agree that the main and primary purpose of having a headlight is to actually generate light. In terms of efficiency (how much light output (in a vehicle headlight application) you get per unit of electrical power consumed), modern LED light sources put out 105-120 lumens (light output) per watt. HID sources put out about 80-90 lumens per watt and halogen bulbs around 25-30 lumens per watt. Thats why the wattage is relevant. Consume more electrical power for a given level of efficiency and you get more light output. Similarly, if you are not consuming many watts, then you are not going to get much output. A theoretical 33w consumption LED light will put out about 3.5 times more light than an LED consuming 9w. Knowing the wattage will make calculating the luminous flux of the light relatively straight forward. It also makes comparing the light output among various different light sources easier. i.e. the light output from a 35w HID is 2 times more than a 55w halogen bulb, as we know how much more efficient a HID is in making light from electrical power vis a vis a halogen bulb (which makes a lot more heat instead of light with those watts). An LED light consuming 9 watts (as per this high beam) is going to put out roughly the equivalent of a halogen bulb that is consuming 36w, (or a 12w HID). And an LED consuming 19w (as in the low beam) would be the equivalent of a 76w halogen bulb (or 25w HID). It is also worth considering in this case that the OEM KTM reflector is a piece of junk (as is amply demostrated in your riding videos ... very uneven beam pattern), and that projector lights make far better beam patterns compared to simple reflector lights. Testing the current draw (as you have done) is important as it allows you to see if the power of the light is what is advertised / claimed ... or if it isnt. You may be interested in the current draw from the perspective of your bikes electrical system. I am interested in the current draw as it tells me it those lights are really 33 watts, or if they are just 9 watts. Because that tells me how much light they are putting out ... which as I said earlier is kind of the main feature of headlights. If I buy a 33w LED headlight, I wouldnt want to find out it was really 9w. This video is very useful. I came across your video as I have been trying to find powerful ECE approved LED projectors. 33 watts (or even 29w) would be phenomenal. Very powerful. And unusual without a cooling fan. Even more light than a 35w HID projector. But it seems that it was too good to be true
I have the same one, makes a lot of wind noise. I might as well take the baffles out of the Akrapovic, my last bike was too loud after doing so but the engine sound is better than the wind. I do stay warmer with a lighter jacket and now I have heated grips to so pretty comfortable.
I thought the windwcreen sucked, but the lights are great. Looks like you already have the problem I was worried about which was sealing around the plexi glas. I might put some clear rtv around it and maybe some foam to seal around the windscreen
Actually, now that I have been riding some 25tkm after the installation it doesn't seem to be much of an issue. Couple times during the riding season I have taken the cover out and cleaned the lights and the backside of the lens. I wouldn't try to seal it.
Nice video man! Like the negative and positive aspects in the end of it, but I missed a conclusion after that. Is the Kit worth the money and would you buy it again? I'm really looking forward to buy one of these kits for my 950 ADV, which I bought this year.
The LEDs are definitely worth the money. If there is some room for improvement it would be with the aerodynamics of the screen. The new version of Rade Garage screen is clear and I don't know if it has different shape as well
Good video, how tall are you? I'm looking for a solution to stop turbulence on my 1090 as it gives me a headache and this setup looks a lot better than the ridiculously high screens I've seen. Thanks
I am 180cm but this screen for 990 is quite different than the one Rade offers for 1090. So can't say anything about that. Light unit is the same and it is awesome!
The height of the screen is quite same as original but this is quite vertical while the original is strongly tilted backwards. This is also the reason for turbulence. With the original screen chest is protectet but the stream hits my helmet quite strongly. With Rade Garage screen I can feel small turbulence in my chest at any speed mut on the otherhand no strong fluctuation on the helmet. Difficult to explain shortly, I prefer Rade Garage screen anyway!
The new Rally Kit from Rade Garage has a clear windshield, which has a different look to the carbon shield of the older version presented in this video. It seems that the clear windshield is not as high as the carbon one.
The stated power is always nominal power, it doesn't tell what is the lighting power. The less electrical power required (to produce powerful lightstream) the better.
Thanks for the detailed review. Perhaps the seller should include a rubber gasket for the plexiglass.
not a fan of opaque windscreen but definitely looks sexy and improved lighting and lower power cons are huge advantages, very cool ;
Great review, I have just ordered as at 6’4” the standard screen was useless and lighting needed improving
If the low beam light is drawing 1.6 Amps, then it is not 33w. If we assume your battery had 12v, then 1.6 Amps equates to 19 watts on low beam. On high beam, you were drawing 2.3 Amps ... 27.6 watts in total. 19 watts of which was the dedicated low beam. So the high beam is less than 9 watts. So the actual power of those lights seems to be a 19w low beam and an 9w high beam
Yes, that was exactly the reason I showed the current. But the 33W printed on the LED unit is just nominal power and actual power can vary depending on voltage, resistance in the cables etc. To me the nominal power of the light in watts is not interesting at all. And not even the actual power in watts. What makes difference is the volume of light it creates and how little current it is taking. Unfortunately couldn't find a reliable way to measure light volume. :)
@@ratracerunaways1779 Light output of a light source is related to how many watts the light is consuming vs its efficiency. Thats why it is relevant - Light output is an essential feature of a light - I would like to think most people would agree that the main and primary purpose of having a headlight is to actually generate light. In terms of efficiency (how much light output (in a vehicle headlight application) you get per unit of electrical power consumed), modern LED light sources put out 105-120 lumens (light output) per watt. HID sources put out about 80-90 lumens per watt and halogen bulbs around 25-30 lumens per watt. Thats why the wattage is relevant. Consume more electrical power for a given level of efficiency and you get more light output. Similarly, if you are not consuming many watts, then you are not going to get much output. A theoretical 33w consumption LED light will put out about 3.5 times more light than an LED consuming 9w. Knowing the wattage will make calculating the luminous flux of the light relatively straight forward. It also makes comparing the light output among various different light sources easier. i.e. the light output from a 35w HID is 2 times more than a 55w halogen bulb, as we know how much more efficient a HID is in making light from electrical power vis a vis a halogen bulb (which makes a lot more heat instead of light with those watts). An LED light consuming 9 watts (as per this high beam) is going to put out roughly the equivalent of a halogen bulb that is consuming 36w, (or a 12w HID). And an LED consuming 19w (as in the low beam) would be the equivalent of a 76w halogen bulb (or 25w HID). It is also worth considering in this case that the OEM KTM reflector is a piece of junk (as is amply demostrated in your riding videos ... very uneven beam pattern), and that projector lights make far better beam patterns compared to simple reflector lights. Testing the current draw (as you have done) is important as it allows you to see if the power of the light is what is advertised / claimed ... or if it isnt. You may be interested in the current draw from the perspective of your bikes electrical system. I am interested in the current draw as it tells me it those lights are really 33 watts, or if they are just 9 watts. Because that tells me how much light they are putting out ... which as I said earlier is kind of the main feature of headlights. If I buy a 33w LED headlight, I wouldnt want to find out it was really 9w. This video is very useful. I came across your video as I have been trying to find powerful ECE approved LED projectors. 33 watts (or even 29w) would be phenomenal. Very powerful. And unusual without a cooling fan. Even more light than a 35w HID projector. But it seems that it was too good to be true
I have the same one, makes a lot of wind noise. I might as well take the baffles out of the Akrapovic, my last bike was too loud after doing so but the engine sound is better than the wind. I do stay warmer with a lighter jacket and now I have heated grips to so pretty comfortable.
I thought the windwcreen sucked, but the lights are great. Looks like you already have the problem I was worried about which was sealing around the plexi glas. I might put some clear rtv around it and maybe some foam to seal around the windscreen
Actually, now that I have been riding some 25tkm after the installation it doesn't seem to be much of an issue. Couple times during the riding season I have taken the cover out and cleaned the lights and the backside of the lens. I wouldn't try to seal it.
The condensation and dust entering behind the plexiglass could perhaps be resolved with making a good seal in rubber ? Or some sort of gasket?
No need, it is not that big of an issue. Cleaning it couple times in a year is enough. And it only takes few minutes
Nice video man! Like the negative and positive aspects in the end of it, but I missed a conclusion after that. Is the Kit worth the money and would you buy it again? I'm really looking forward to buy one of these kits for my 950 ADV, which I bought this year.
The LEDs are definitely worth the money. If there is some room for improvement it would be with the aerodynamics of the screen. The new version of Rade Garage screen is clear and I don't know if it has different shape as well
Good video, how tall are you? I'm looking for a solution to stop turbulence on my 1090 as it gives me a headache and this setup looks a lot better than the ridiculously high screens I've seen. Thanks
I am 180cm but this screen for 990 is quite different than the one Rade offers for 1090. So can't say anything about that. Light unit is the same and it is awesome!
Good video, What is the height difference of the screens? creates turbulence at what speed? thanks
The height of the screen is quite same as original but this is quite vertical while the original is strongly tilted backwards. This is also the reason for turbulence. With the original screen chest is protectet but the stream hits my helmet quite strongly. With Rade Garage screen I can feel small turbulence in my chest at any speed mut on the otherhand no strong fluctuation on the helmet. Difficult to explain shortly, I prefer Rade Garage screen anyway!
Why not use some mild silicone for the edge of the plexiglass? that should keep the dust and humidity away
It is not visible from the video but there is few millimeters wide opening in the bottom. It is not possible to seal it, atleast not in any tidy way
How many lumens are there for the low beam and high beam LED lights?
What temperature value do they have (6000?)
both 3895 lumens and colour temp of 4500k. just emailed rade about that exact question ;p
Brilliant
is there also a lower windscreen ?
The new Rally Kit from Rade Garage has a clear windshield, which has a different look to the carbon shield of the older version presented in this video. It seems that the clear windshield is not as high as the carbon one.
so i'ts 50 w not 70 like advertised...
The stated power is always nominal power, it doesn't tell what is the lighting power. The less electrical power required (to produce powerful lightstream) the better.