CE Electronics, distributed via Amplified Parts, makes many multi-section twist lock capacitors today. They may have the values you need. Most of their units are rated for fairly high voltages as their prime customers refurbish vacuum tube power amplifiers.
Nice job and tutorial. I'm in the process of recapping a 1945 Hallicrafters SX-28A and will be restuffing the P.S. filter caps. Your video was very helpful
I like the uncrimping/recrimping method that you show, I have also heard of some people filing off the crimped over aluminum at the base to open them. If you need to cut the can to get it open, like the old style wet electrolytics with the large nut under the chassis, a pipe cutter like you use for copper pipe works well, once you install the new condensers you can fit a shot length of pipe inside to hold the two sections together.
@bandersentv Exactly! The heat gun method creates less mess and stink than any other method we tried, especially important with the usual "basement workbench(es)" setup that most Pro and Semi-Pro Restorers use. Some kind of fixed jig with clamps to hold the capacitor steady in an inverted position 6" above the benchtop by its lugs during heating is also helpful. With the can held steady in the jig, a light tug with one gloved hand will pull the heated can loose in one smooth motion.
I have rebuilt many 'lytics over the years. Most effective solvent is paint thinner (mineral spirits) for cleaning out tar. For multi-cap rebuilds you'll want to clean out the tar to make room. Soak can in paint thinner over night and use a butter knife to remove big chunks to speed clean out. DON'T use stuffing around caps to keep them steady inside can, they can't cool and may overheat. Good luck radio folks!
So if I have a two lead capacitor all I have to do is solder the new capacitor leads to the positive and negative leads of the old capacitor? Thank you. Very good video👍
Hi Bob, gonna try this as well. Seems like a bit of work, but you get 100% replacement of the can and looks and working as well!! It'll look like it did back 50 years ago or so. Wow... never saw a reactance value myself!! Always xxx MFD and voltage!! Thanks again my friend.
@umajunkcollector -- I've found that the "hidden underneath" method often creates more work in the long run, due to the need to add new isolated terminal lugs into the layout to connect the new capacitors. That method has also been found to over-complicate subsequent Maintenance in our experience, since the new caps invariably impair access to critical test points on the underside of the chassis and can be especially frustrating when RF/IF Alignment is needed as part of Restoration.
@umajunkcollector -- Often, the lugs of the twist-lock capacitors are used as tie points for several connections to the capacitor from different areas of the chassis, and these tie points are often difficult to re-locate without making tedious re-routing of under-chassis wiring necessary. Large clusters of components can also impair ventilation under the chassis. Re-routing of connections in a Color TV can lead to weird "cross-coupling" interactions between IF/Video/Chroma/Audio stages.
To get the guts out a heat gun works but I have a new method that I have been using, I take the old condenser, put it on a sheet of aluminum foil or an old pie plate, and bake it in the toaster oven at 200 degree for about ten minutes, sometimes less. Once the can is hot the innards almost fall out, though you usually need to grab it with some pliers to help it along. I have restuffed electrolytics before but never a twist can, I will have to try your method on a scrap can I have sitting around.
I'm trying my first re-capping. 2 I got out, no issues, but this third one is tarred in like this, so I'm going to need and try your method here and heat it up. Wish me luck!! I'd like to clean the inside up if at all possible. It's for me, not a customer, so can tackle it. I wonder what the BEST solvent is?!??
@bandersentv Now that you mention it the tar did set off the smoke detector once or twice, but that detector is a little too sensitive as frying bacon does the same thing. Not really any other way with something like those block condenser cans, some books like Ghirhardi manuals reccomend cooking the tar out with a hot plate. I have a Radiola 44 and a Philco 96 that will need the cans cooked out one of these days.
i really commend you for doing things the way you do,its a true artform. bob is the reason to do it this way for aesthetics or does it add to the value of what you are restoring to have it look original? you are so talented it blows my mind.
@jshorva65 - One of our clients tried to do a Do-It-Yourself recap on a VERY rare RCA CTC4 with insufficient Color TV experience, inadvertently adding about 100 hours of "cleanup work" to the Estimate we did after he threw in the towel (when his attempt resulted in a burned up Flyback). The need for extensive "cleanup work" reduced a set worth over $3,000 to a permanent "passive exhibit" item, as he wasn't willing to go forward with it given the Estimated cost of Restoration. Tragic!
Someone literally "ripped" the can electrolytic caps out of my Philco 650X. I assume they replaced them under the chassis, because the radio was working. But now the chassis looks like crap. Not sure how I could fix this.
I can't see putting the cap back on...how about some extra large heat shrink tubing and just leave as is...I'm just concerned about overheating of the newer type electrolytic caps... Its a great idea of using the bottom tab mounts, but, not nesacary for them to be encapsolated back in the cans...JMO..
I don't follow your concern. Modern caps have a much lower esr and produce very, very little heat. Restorers have been restuffing cans for many years with no problems
@bandersentv your welcome bob and i aint just kissing your ass.you really do some awsome restoration work. i guess because you really love doing is the part i enjoy.even though i understand about quarter of what your doing,hahah
I've a got a B&K 1077B Analyst without any cables. I'm pretty sure you mentioned a part number for a modern replacement for the jacks? I've been surfing your videos but haven't found it. Rich
![เปิดใจ พี่ญา คนรุม หลังทัวร์ลง หนักสุดในชีวิต!! l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/2-OJZRtclro/mqdefault.jpg)
CE Electronics, distributed via Amplified Parts, makes many multi-section twist lock capacitors today. They may have the values you need. Most of their units are rated for fairly high voltages as their prime customers refurbish vacuum tube power amplifiers.
Nice job and tutorial. I'm in the process of recapping a 1945 Hallicrafters SX-28A and will be restuffing the P.S. filter caps. Your video was very helpful
I like the uncrimping/recrimping method that you show, I have also heard of some people filing off the crimped over aluminum at the base to open them. If you need to cut the can to get it open, like the old style wet electrolytics with the large nut under the chassis, a pipe cutter like you use for copper pipe works well, once you install the new condensers you can fit a shot length of pipe inside to hold the two sections together.
Very good job on that rebuild! I find it very interesting that they labeled the reactance instead of the capacitance.
Very useful Bob. I always enjoy your videos, such a calming voice. Take care.
@bandersentv Exactly! The heat gun method creates less mess and stink than any other method we tried, especially important with the usual "basement workbench(es)" setup that most Pro and Semi-Pro Restorers use. Some kind of fixed jig with clamps to hold the capacitor steady in an inverted position 6" above the benchtop by its lugs during heating is also helpful. With the can held steady in the jig, a light tug with one gloved hand will pull the heated can loose in one smooth motion.
I have rebuilt many 'lytics over the years. Most effective solvent is paint thinner (mineral spirits) for cleaning out tar. For multi-cap rebuilds you'll want to clean out the tar to make room. Soak can in paint thinner over night and use a butter knife to remove big chunks to speed clean out. DON'T use stuffing around caps to keep them steady inside can, they can't cool and may overheat. Good luck radio folks!
Thanks for the useful tips :)
So if I have a two lead capacitor all I have to do is solder the new capacitor leads to the positive and negative leads of the old capacitor?
Thank you. Very good video👍
Hi Bob, gonna try this as well. Seems like a bit of work, but you get 100% replacement of the can and looks and working as well!! It'll look like it did back 50 years ago or so. Wow... never saw a reactance value myself!! Always xxx MFD and voltage!! Thanks again my friend.
OK, now that was funny to see Star Trek on such an old set, Thanks for the Great helpful Video.
@umajunkcollector -- I've found that the "hidden underneath" method often creates more work in the long run, due to the need to add new isolated terminal lugs into the layout to connect the new capacitors. That method has also been found to over-complicate subsequent Maintenance in our experience, since the new caps invariably impair access to critical test points on the underside of the chassis and can be especially frustrating when RF/IF Alignment is needed as part of Restoration.
@umajunkcollector -- Often, the lugs of the twist-lock capacitors are used as tie points for several connections to the capacitor from different areas of the chassis, and these tie points are often difficult to re-locate without making tedious re-routing of under-chassis wiring necessary. Large clusters of components can also impair ventilation under the chassis. Re-routing of connections in a Color TV can lead to weird "cross-coupling" interactions between IF/Video/Chroma/Audio stages.
To get the guts out a heat gun works but I have a new method that I have been using, I take the old condenser, put it on a sheet of aluminum foil or an old pie plate, and bake it in the toaster oven at 200 degree for about ten minutes, sometimes less. Once the can is hot the innards almost fall out, though you usually need to grab it with some pliers to help it along. I have restuffed electrolytics before but never a twist can, I will have to try your method on a scrap can I have sitting around.
Wonderful video. Just an FYI, trying using lard (bacon fat cooled to a solid) as a flux to solder aluminum.
I'm trying my first re-capping. 2 I got out, no issues, but this third one is tarred in like this, so I'm going to need and try your method here and heat it up.
Wish me luck!! I'd like to clean the inside up if at all possible. It's for me, not a customer, so can tackle it. I wonder what the BEST solvent is?!??
Good luck! It's been my experience the best solvent for tar is turpentine.
@@bandersentv I sprayed with WD last night to start breaking down the tar. We'll see how that works.
@bandersentv Now that you mention it the tar did set off the smoke detector once or twice, but that detector is a little too sensitive as frying bacon does the same thing. Not really any other way with something like those block condenser cans, some books like Ghirhardi manuals reccomend cooking the tar out with a hot plate. I have a Radiola 44 and a Philco 96 that will need the cans cooked out one of these days.
Nice video Bob. Thanks for doing it. I might try this in the near future.
Thanks. If you do try it, please be very careful. It's easy to cut or stab yourself while prying the can open!
Very nice video! And Star Trek was a nice touch :)
Thanks! I think I've only ever seen one other cap labelled like that.
i really commend you for doing things the way you do,its a true artform.
bob is the reason to do it this way for aesthetics or does it add to the value of what
you are restoring to have it look original? you are so talented it blows my mind.
you can't fix the radio but you can't turn a light bulb on
Does every internal cap have one lead to ground? I need to redo two quad cans on my Eico 20.
Every internal cap has the negative lead going to the can. The can is often, but not always, grounded.
@@bandersentv Thank you, subscribed and liked
@jshorva65 - One of our clients tried to do a Do-It-Yourself recap on a VERY rare RCA CTC4 with insufficient Color TV experience, inadvertently adding about 100 hours of "cleanup work" to the Estimate we did after he threw in the towel (when his attempt resulted in a burned up Flyback). The need for extensive "cleanup work" reduced a set worth over $3,000 to a permanent "passive exhibit" item, as he wasn't willing to go forward with it given the Estimated cost of Restoration. Tragic!
Someone literally "ripped" the can electrolytic caps out of my Philco 650X. I assume they replaced them under the chassis, because the radio was working. But now the chassis looks like crap. Not sure how I could fix this.
Ask around. Someone might have spare caps salvaged from another chassis.
very nice .
First rate re-do. More trouble, but worth it.
Yep, that's why I call them restorations and not repairs :)
I can't see putting the cap back on...how about some extra large heat shrink tubing and just leave as is...I'm just concerned about overheating of the newer type electrolytic caps...
Its a great idea of using the bottom tab mounts, but, not nesacary for them to be encapsolated back in the cans...JMO..
I don't follow your concern. Modern caps have a much lower esr and produce very, very little heat. Restorers have been restuffing cans for many years with no problems
@bandersentv your welcome bob and i aint just kissing your ass.you really do
some awsome restoration work. i guess because you really love doing is the part
i enjoy.even though i understand about quarter of what your doing,hahah
Hey Bob how did you know that the replacement only had to be 25 volts?
Well the original was only 3 volts so 3 or more volts would work. I used 25 to give me plenty of overhead.
Got it, thanks..
I've a got a B&K 1077B Analyst without any cables. I'm pretty sure you mentioned a part number for a modern replacement for the jacks? I've been surfing your videos but haven't found it. Rich
I haven't done any work on my 1077B but it came with modern BNC jacks. Doesn't yours ?
No unfortunately it came without them
Amazing..and all in done without You having to come out of your coffin..
next time use a candle