bodgit and leggit garage opel astra how to remove haed (part 2)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ก.ค. 2014
- bodgit and leggit garage
tips and tricks inside your video hopefully help you
don't forget get your hands dirty
astore.amazon.co.uk/youtube052...
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this video look at 1997 opel astra and how to remove the haed
A head gasket is a gasket that sits between the engine block and cylinder head(s) in an internal combustion engine.
Its purpose is to seal the cylinders to ensure maximum compression and avoid leakage of coolant or engine oil into the cylinders; as such, it is the most critical sealing application in any engine, and, as part of the combustion chamber, it shares the same strength requirements as other combustion chamber components
MLS or Multiple Layers Steel -- Most modern head engines are produced with MLS gaskets. These typically consist of three layers of steel. The contact faces are usually coated with a rubber-like coating such as Viton that adheres to the cylinder block and cylinder head while the thicker center layer is left bare.
Solid copper -- a solid sheet of copper, and typically requires special machining called 'o-ringing' that places a piece of wire around the circumference of the cylinder to bite into the copper. When this is performed copper gaskets are extremely durable. Recently companies have started producing copper gaskets with integral sealing wires permitting their retrofit into engines without the removal of the engine block for machine work.
Composite -- an older technology. Typically these are made from asbestos or graphite but are more prone to blowouts than newer gaskets. Asbestos gaskets are becoming increasingly rare due to health concerns.[2]
Elastomeric -- a gasket type used by Rover on their K Series engines. It utilised a steel core plate with molded in place silicone rubber beads to seal oil and coolant passages. The bores were sealed by rolled steel fire rings in a more conventional manner. The idea behind the gasket design was to produce a production version of the technology used in F1 engines at the time. The original application of the gasket on the smaller versions of the K Series was very successful. However, an engine redesign resulted in persistent problems with the design -- the joint interface became unstable and the gasket could not cope.
The cost of a replacement gasket is usually not extreme, but the price of total repair is significantly high. This is because removing/replacing an engine head is very time consuming - around 75% of cost will be labor. Furthermore, untreated blown gaskets usually seriously damage the engine, then requiring even more expensive work.
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You are a legend. Thankyou. My daughters Holden Barina needed the head gasket replaced which is the EXACT same model as this one. I know just enough about cars to be dangerous but with this series you just saved us some money we didn't have. THANK YOU.
Rodney Hebels thanks a lot for watching mate glad I can help all the best with yours don't forget your hands dirty
One comment about the video, when taking the head off you failed
to mention how important it is to undo the head bolts in the right
order to stop the head warping, undo in a clockwise circle,and the
same when reinstalling the head,I did notice that your engine had
bolts instead of stretch bolts, or torx bolts, but,the same undo
and redo pattern apply to lesson the chance of head warping,
great video keep up the good work buddy
Lawrence
Great video...very clear and easy to understand.....Im guessing the same can be applied to my C20ne 8v engine...one day lol
Unfortunately I bragged at work about my competence and got suckered into doing the cylinder head for a "friend." Second time around was a lot easier. These engines are both Astra F Model with fuel injection. Removing the intake manifold is a lot different to the video. It's a PITA and I recommend you do that first while you're fresh and have lots of energy. While you're buying locking pliers to remove the jubilee clips, get a set of ratchet circular spanners too. My socket set has a universal joint extension but even with that I couldn't get a ratchet socket onto the upper inlet manifold nuts. Without a ratchet circular spanner 13mm you will spend half an hour per nut turning it one twelfth of a turn at a time. Make sure when you buy the ratchet spanners that the set includes a 10, a 13 and a 16. With the fuel injection manifold (right hand drive cars) you will have to remove the brake master cylinder from the firewall as well, to make enough clearance to get the manifold off. I also recommend that you get a small mirror to help get the socket onto the bottom manifold nuts. The worst nut is second from right on the bottom. Now we understand why the Germans lost the war. For some reason there are five top nuts on the manifold and only four on the bottom. Looking for the non-existent fifth bottom nut lost me a lot of time. Gently use a tire lever to break the seal to get the manifold loose from the cylinder head. The last thing you'll need is sticky putty--- the brand name in my country is Prestik. When you fit the bottom nuts back onto the manifold studs, the putty will keep the nut in place in the socket as you offer it to the bolt. On both cars I replaced the idiotic spline cap screws that hold the cam belt cover on, with normal Pozi bolts. If you do not have a pneumatic or electrical impact wrench, which cost quite a bit, the Opel wheel nut socket handle with a club hammer does the job. Off topic I keep a length of pipe in the boot (here we call it a tommy bar) to give the wheel nut spanner more leverage as the typical wheel fitment centre tightens wheel nuts to one of two settings: much too tight, and let's see you get that off without a cutting torch. When you're stuck on the side of the road with a flat tire, at midnight in the rain, an air compressor and pneumatic gun aren't often available.
Is it possible to get at the thermostat without completely removing the cambelt cover? I've got to do this along with the head gasket on my Z16SE!
Kinda surprised to see a 1997 car with a distributor!
Never seen loose manifold bolts like that either, thank god someone was in before you and forgot to tighten them :)
i have same car but fuel injected and computer controlled coil pac is it the same process
Hi, how did you take off the fan belt?
Great video. Really enjoyed watching it. I learnt a lot from this. Not sure if it has convinced me to change my Head gasket or get a new car! :)
lol thanks for watching mate and regardless if you do do it you still need to get your hands dirty lol
Freelander belt timer change
Great job
Thanks mate
Thanks. I have Opel Astra Z16SE
Me too
Mine blew a plug and the manifold seems dirty, watching to see if I can be able to remove and clean it myself...
nice video
thanks mate
hi please show where the fuel pump is
I got an OPEL ASTRA F 1.6 SI GL and i wondered if i can reuse the head bolts on this car?
+Ola Bjønness hi what the yr of your car
It is 1994
+bodgitand leggit
Oh man, I got a big issue. when I tried to change timing built, I tried to open the plastic cover behind it. the screw appear in 23:20 was stocked. I just tried to open with a little force by hummer >>>but>>>> a break on camshaft was happened just behind the pulley. the oil comes through. I used super-glue :) to fix it but no benefit. now I have to change the whole cover that contain the camshaft 28:12 .... I have some questions. is it possible to welding the broken part instead of change it as whole? also when I open the cover, should I change the gasket too? I'm not gonna open all parts in this video, only the camshaft part.
thanks for your help.
Hi mate yes it's possible to get that welded but you need a cast welder if you're on about the camshaft seal you can replace them they're very cheap so you're better off doing it hope this helps thanks
thanks mate, what about the gasket? should I replace it as well? I really don't wanna go that far.
best day
Osama Alhamadani hi mate do you mean the head gasket if so yes you have to replace it if you taking out the head bolts
The one between the head and pistons.. I'm not gonna open the bolts of back and front of the engine so I think that will hold the head in place while i remove the cover bolts.. Does it sound right?
Osama Alhamadani yeah that's the head gasket so long as you have not taking off the head bolts you will be ok
I know why you didn't show us how to take off the lower intake manifold bolts. There would have been a LOT of bad language. In the end I loosened the nuts half a turn with a spanner and bought a flexible ratchet extension, not expensive. The exhaust manifold nuts are supposed to be finger tight only to allow for expansion. Tighten them mechanic style (tighten until it strips then half a turn back) will result in huge problems later. That fibre exhaust gasket was not designed to have the life squashed out of it.
Where are you because my opel need to do a timing
Give me a tip to remove No2 spark plug that is stuck, in engine like this. Anti rust Spray, cold engine, or what?
bodgit and leggit garage 1 second ago
Hi mate you have to be very careful engine warm can help but just remember all the metal expands at the same time if it's been cross threaded or damaged it just might not come out properly or might break there anything I can advise you to do is very slowly twisted loosen it a little bit then tighten it then loosen it then tighten it and gradually start losing it a little bit more than you are tightening it this will hopefully free it up that this could take up to an hour just to do if not more or if you are not constantly doing if I would suggest you go to somebody who is as this could turn into an absolute nightmare where you need to get your head taken off and machine this could cost an absolute fortune if it's not done properly
tell me where he was going breather?
Hi guys i have a astra h mk5 ive been getting alot of gunk build up under my oil cap and breather pipes none in the dipstick ive had it for around 3 months i done a oil change i found gunk in filter just a blob breathers were blocked and i get a golf ball size lump near evreyday so i done the oil change clean a enigine flush etc now i still get a layer under oil cap i can see oil leaking it looks like its comjing from either just abover the sensor or around that part maybe just below (top left hand side when looking at engine) where the oil sensor is i dont think its that could a rocker cover leak course this? Im going to attempt to change it now also do you know head torque settings? Its a 1.4 astra mk5 16v thnks
jayzee hi mate what year is your car
bodgitand leggit 54 plate mk5 astra h mate the first (new shape)
Hi, what's the firing order of the car?
On my 1998 Astra F fuel injection with electronic coil it is 1423.
6:48 it begs the question why dont they use bolts ?? then this shit wouldnt happen . i know one can buy special oval brass ones but they dont use them for cost i suppose ?
Hi mate all comes down to cost if they can save money on each vehicle they will and at the end of the year they can save millions it's just an accountant game now
Cylinder 1 is Belt end, Unless its a Renault! Then it's gearbox end. Why Frenchies why?
💗💗💞💖💞💞💗💓💓💓
thanks mate
Give me a tip to remove No2 spark plug that is stuck, in engine like this. Anti rust Spray, cold engine, or what?
Hi mate you have to be very careful engine warm can help but just remember all the metal expands at the same time if it's been cross threaded or damaged it just might not come out properly or might break there anything I can advise you to do is very slowly twisted loosen it a little bit then tighten it then loosen it then tighten it and gradually start losing it a little bit more than you are tightening it this will hopefully free it up that this could take up to an hour just to do if not more or if you are not constantly doing if I would suggest you go to somebody who is as this could turn into an absolute nightmare where you need to get your head taken off and machine this could cost an absolute fortune if it's not done properly
@@bodgitandleggitgarage Yeah thanks a lot.
@@telosfd anytime mate I wish you the best of luck you just need to be seriously careful doing this