I'm also curious about this. Maybe have another set printed and coated with anti-UV varnish which might also help a smidge with some of the looseness introduced by being to accurate.
Automotive clear coat protects against UV and is relatively inexpensive. Would be interesting to try if you're not keen on covering the printed parts in actual paint.
This is a topic I've sincerely been wondering about. Glad to see you tackle it. EDIT: And I'm genuinely surprised by the results. That's super promising, but I agree with Nick on seeing them after some time have passed.
Be weary of Frontline foam. One guy told me that they ordered a talon claw from them and they hadn't started printing it after 6 weeks. When he asked for a refund they held his money hostage until he threatened legal action.
They had really long lead times during the holidays, Derrick even asked me if I would help him out with building blasters part time, but I live in SLC not Provo
For the Caliburn collet system there should be a third, intermediate sized o-ring that gets sandwiched between the muzzle/frame part and the collet itself. That system works fine once you put it in.
Wow. I'm genuinely impressed by the amount of accurate resin printing knowledge on display here. I've seen a lot of very knowledgeable youtubers who specialize in FDM 3d printing tackle resin printing for an odd upload or two, and they almost invariably include a lot of incorrect, incomplete, and especially outdated information. It's great to see up-to-date, useful info reaching folks that might be brand new to resin printing as a concept.
I appreciate that. I did a lot of research to prepare for this episode, especially about safety and chemistry. I had to cut a lot of it, but there's plenty left for future episodes.
SLS is the final frontier for the prosumer / hobby market. Almost the same detail and precision as SLA, generally tougher than FDM, and much greater design freedom than both.
Here's something else that works well with resin for me. For any resin parts that rubs against other parts, coat them with some teflon dry lube. It does 2 things, lubricates and keeps the resin from powedering up from friction. Almost acts like a protective coating.
I've found that Nylon, Polycarbonate and some Carbon Fiber filaments tend to be the best and most practical to 3D print for my nerf blasters. I have used resin for some parts that benefit from high dimensional accuracy like flywheel cages or even flywheels themselves before though.
Great video! Resin is something we've looked into a bit. For our purposes though, FDM (and getting into injection molding) is pretty hard to beat. I need to get my hands on something V4 from Slug one of these days...
Watched much of this come together on streams, this looks GREAT! Nice work, and as always amazing script. The Tenacious D reference *chefs kiss* perfect. They definitely outperformed my expectations! If you ever want to work on those supports let me know! Happy to help make this SO MUCH EASIER!
For newcomers and the unaware, Frontline is known to cut corners in their products. Poorly drilled holes, wrong screws, badly toleranced metal parts, the list can go on but ask any FB or nerf discord and you'll hear personal experiences about it.
I've been to his store and I don't get what people are going on about. They do great work there, and of course it's never going to be perfect but their 3D printing procceses are good enough, and their blasters function great. Derrick's a cool dude and helps out in the group so much. There's a reason that they've gotten so big
@@legoboy-ox2kx it's a mixed bag. I've heard it all with both store and online orders, the real gripe is mostly non local orders. Personal experience being you cannot print a Zinc lower half on 2 walls and grid infill. It's one thing to have a bad print, and it's another to purposefully print stuff NOT at their recommended settings. And this is not even mentioning the incidents of them not paying their royalties for the blasters they are listing, but that is a whole other can of worms that I won't dive too deep into
@@N1sm0NIC I've heard that second story on both sides, and from what I understand that was an issue of communication for the royalties and it was sorted out, he wasn't intentionally trying not to pay. Also, I'm not 100% sure what print settings they use for the zinc, but I've used a few of Derricks and some others he's sold and they've all been solid. Some of the earlier model zincs had issues with the front barrel section coming off, but they fixed that pretty early on
@@legoboy-ox2kx well whatever they're putting out for in store display models/built variants they should that much effort to ALL orders. Like I said, personally I've seen too many fail, all ranging from hardware kits to custom machined parts, and even full built blasters. Had to either fix them myself or point them in the right direction to whoever can fix it (Zinc for instance because my printer does not have the proper tolerances to print them right). In my book they're just not worth the time and money, even if they warranty it
As a heads-up, DO NOT use dish gloves when messing with resin, to my understanding, the resin will permeate and eventually absorb into your skin. Use disposable exam gloves
It’s a pretty solid upgrade to nearly anything. Siraya assured me that they formulated to print in 100% tenacious, but I’ll be damned if I’ve ever seen anyone pull it off.
@@ZackFreedman it's not difficult, you just have to print it in a hot room, or heat the resin. It says it right on the bottle =P 25C is a minimum imo, but better around 30C. Just don't forget the resin heats up when cured, so if you're printing larger parts the temps will go up after you start printing so don't make it too hot at the start.
@@ZackFreedman I have printed some enormous parts in tenacious notably some L shaped pieces 150x130mm they came out completely strainght after about 3 test prints. The most important part is that the part is corrrectly oriented then supported. Not every model can or should be printed in tenacious; its just too flexible for some mechanical parts.
For the next 3d printed blaster I would love to see a mixed approach use each technology where it suit the application best, to see them shine an coalesce into the best blaster possible!
ive missed your vids zack, your relentless delivery style is just awesome. I have tried in vein to print anywhere near as good as your do but its always a pleasure to watch you
I've experimented with different resins for impact resistance and my favorite so far hands down is Phrozen Nylon-Green Tough resin. That stuff is flippin' amazing. Siraya Blu came in a relatively close second, but nylon green is crazy good. Kinda expensive, but not nearly as expensive as other "nylon" like resins on the market. I dyed it black before printing, increased the cure time, but should help with UV exposure.
resin is also expensive. 1kg of siraya tech blu is $50, and tenacious is nearly $70/kg. i reckon each of those blasters used at least a kilogram, possibly two or three. basic PLA and ABS average $25/kg
On the bullwork it might be good to have the grips and flywheel as resin and the majority of the rest as filament. Cuts down on weight and allows a smooth operation without the flywheel housing overheating.
I love how blunt you are about the sponsorship, no "Acuthjkaually I Already loved their product before the sponsorship blah blha blah bullsh*t" just " i like it when they give me money :)" perfect amazing 10/10 more
I have a small dungeon of a workshop... 2 FDM 3d printers and a Fox Alien cnc. I would love to have to resin printer but I have been scared off by the fumes/haz-mat stigma. I'm sure you lock yourself in your closet and intentionally sniff the fumes from your Photon Mono X 6K but what would you recommend for someone who doesn't want to keel over in 10 years from "orange lung"?
The jokes, amazing, the content, amazing-er. Every time I see a post I die inside. Love it. Very interesting to see how it actually works rather well, and has some advantages, as well as being so accurate it's a problem. Awesome.
It's been a while since I saw one of your videos and I forgot your absolutely insane writing style. Even though I have very little interest in blasters, it's just a joy listening to you rapid fire 60 memes per minute
I don't have a 3D printer, or a strong interest in NERFing, yet I watched the entire video (and several others in the past) just to listen to you spit mad nerd slang.... You are a comedic poet and a technical beatnik.
These videos really make me want to start building blasters again. It's been years since I was building Longshots with integrated front blasters. Would be nice to get out and start Nerfing again now that things have started up again.
You should! With competitors like Dart Zone, and tons of hobbyist creators the last two years alone, I'd say there's never been a better time to be in this hobby.
I am not at all surprised by these results, i have been spending the last quite a while finding and testing tough resins, and I’ve honestly found that if you have a strong enough resin then I even prefer resin printing for mechanical parts.
Just a heads up, Frontline Foam has a history of IP infringement, design theft, failure to compensate designers for using their work, parts that aren’t built to the correct tolerance, horrible customer service, and lying about blaster performance. They’re well known within the nerf hobby as a brand to be avoided at all costs. They also happen to support a particular blaster designer, who I won’t name for sake of not stirring drama, who is horrifically transphobic, homophobic, racist, and has been banned from just about every corner of the hobby. I’d highly encourage you support more ethical shops like Out Of Darts, Foamblast, Captain Slug, Silverfox Industries, Orion Blasters, and others.
Plus, they modify files for some of the blasters they sell (e.g. from what I’ve heard, the Zinc and XC). Hopefully the Woozi is the last thing I get from them, especially since I’ve had worse experience with their customer service lately with my Woozi project that’s still ongoing.
At VDC where we do Dartsoft we are crawling through bushes and shrubs, climbing up cliffs and even wasing through mud, plus im the summer the sun makes it sometimes 30 degrees celsius. Will a resin blaster aurvive all that?
Dude your videos are so great. Perhaps the most entertaining vids in this genre bending category. You’ll have millions of subs before too long. YT algo do yo thang.
Im also curious about the cost difference, siraya tech while yes is considered the best for durability, comes at a much higher cost then the basic resin. how much resin was used to produce each blaster? i would imaging a couple bottles worth, and how does that cost compare to FDM for the printed parts?
After seeing this 2 years ago, I finally have tried my hand at it. This is my first 3D Printer. But not my first experience with 3D printing. My resin keeps curing sticky and I'm only using the clear v2 Blu, do I NEED the hard resin too? What is the ratio you used?
150 is low for dual stage. What motors were you using? That's a gorgeous bulwark and the flex sheet you used is reminiscent of the pei sheets alot of nerfers use for FDM printers.
Try using some ptfe sprayed on and wiped off on your vat bottom. It basically adds an extra amount of release ability for those stubborn resins. Which might help with tenacious. Also i was gonna go with Blu for a future print build... Turns out yup now I'm going with Blu.
6:26 I love that potion seller reference, it’s basically an old video with some idiot talking about potions using a wacky face filter. For like 5 minutes.
Zack is casually doing more SciFi-ey stuff than any author could have ever imagined people doing today. but he is. if styro-pyro, hacksmith and alex lab did a collab with him star wars would literally be real
The potion seller reference was amazing lol
I've had SLA blasters get weak with UV exposure over months that were originally impact resistant. I'd be curious to see this same test in 6mo.
We're they painted?
I'm also curious about this. Maybe have another set printed and coated with anti-UV varnish which might also help a smidge with some of the looseness introduced by being to accurate.
Automotive clear coat protects against UV and is relatively inexpensive. Would be interesting to try if you're not keen on covering the printed parts in actual paint.
Before I actually use these outside, I need to coat them with UV-proof marine sealant. They would degrade if exposed repeatedly.
Spray paint em!
This is a topic I've sincerely been wondering about. Glad to see you tackle it.
EDIT: And I'm genuinely surprised by the results. That's super promising, but I agree with Nick on seeing them after some time have passed.
Hey its Walcom!
hi walcom
Read this in your voice
@@The_Racr1 same, how couldnt you!
Be weary of Frontline foam. One guy told me that they ordered a talon claw from them and they hadn't started printing it after 6 weeks. When he asked for a refund they held his money hostage until he threatened legal action.
They had really long lead times during the holidays, Derrick even asked me if I would help him out with building blasters part time, but I live in SLC not Provo
not only that but they manage to make 5 errors in 3 orders I pass with them. also their print quality is mediocre at best.
i am trying to get jack rabbit nerfer and mrheathpants to join out of darts
The grip assembly is still compatible with extension springs if you're feeling picky.
For the Caliburn collet system there should be a third, intermediate sized o-ring that gets sandwiched between the muzzle/frame part and the collet itself. That system works fine once you put it in.
Fancy seeing you here.
@@TheSuperSushiMaster 👋
Eyy yo
Wow. I'm genuinely impressed by the amount of accurate resin printing knowledge on display here. I've seen a lot of very knowledgeable youtubers who specialize in FDM 3d printing tackle resin printing for an odd upload or two, and they almost invariably include a lot of incorrect, incomplete, and especially outdated information. It's great to see up-to-date, useful info reaching folks that might be brand new to resin printing as a concept.
I appreciate that. I did a lot of research to prepare for this episode, especially about safety and chemistry. I had to cut a lot of it, but there's plenty left for future episodes.
A mix of both resin and FDM printers would probally be the most practical
SLS is the final frontier for the prosumer / hobby market. Almost the same detail and precision as SLA, generally tougher than FDM, and much greater design freedom than both.
@@luke_fabis and 15 times the price
your writing of these videos has improved a lot since last year. always so cool watching people grow in a medium.
"oh! I was supposed to be waving this bottle around"
Pure gold humor here xD
Your power to inject a massive amount of comedy into informational videos is off the charts
"Entertational"
Zach you are legit funny. I laugh in every video.
+1
The pixelated video is SpaceBalls when a giant Jam jar is used to jam the sensors.
This man's humor was ahead of his time. The brain rot comments sprinkled throughout this video is so good.
ayy he's back!! Hope you're doing well!
"Sometimes you need the unitasker." My guy that is a delicious obscure reference, I love you so much.
Here's something else that works well with resin for me. For any resin parts that rubs against other parts, coat them with some teflon dry lube. It does 2 things, lubricates and keeps the resin from powedering up from friction. Almost acts like a protective coating.
"I've seen flat-earthers with better experimental procedure" is the line of the year. Had me pee my pants a little 😂😂😂
🤨
Bruh the face you made aiming the bulwark was delectable
I've found that Nylon, Polycarbonate and some Carbon Fiber filaments tend to be the best and most practical to 3D print for my nerf blasters. I have used resin for some parts that benefit from high dimensional accuracy like flywheel cages or even flywheels themselves before though.
Great video! Resin is something we've looked into a bit. For our purposes though, FDM (and getting into injection molding) is pretty hard to beat.
I need to get my hands on something V4 from Slug one of these days...
the first youtuber ive ever heard even mention tenacious d and yet it was done so smoothly that anyone who didnt know of the band wouldnt notice!
I laughed out loud when I heard "I fired and I fired until my arm was as sore as when Brooke is out of town." 😂😂😂
The pun, reference, and joke per minute ratio of these videos gives them a power level higher than the scouter can register.
9:56 it seems today’s generation has lost the bleeps, the sweeps, and the creeps
I recognized the raspberry jam scene from a mile away and frankly with how pixelated it was it really could have been.
Watched much of this come together on streams, this looks GREAT! Nice work, and as always amazing script. The Tenacious D reference *chefs kiss* perfect. They definitely outperformed my expectations! If you ever want to work on those supports let me know! Happy to help make this SO MUCH EASIER!
Quirky questions, absolutely banging blasters and more epic epicness
Thanks zack for the videos!
8:05 No pun has made me angrier.
For newcomers and the unaware, Frontline is known to cut corners in their products. Poorly drilled holes, wrong screws, badly toleranced metal parts, the list can go on but ask any FB or nerf discord and you'll hear personal experiences about it.
I've been to his store and I don't get what people are going on about. They do great work there, and of course it's never going to be perfect but their 3D printing procceses are good enough, and their blasters function great. Derrick's a cool dude and helps out in the group so much. There's a reason that they've gotten so big
@@legoboy-ox2kx it's a mixed bag. I've heard it all with both store and online orders, the real gripe is mostly non local orders. Personal experience being you cannot print a Zinc lower half on 2 walls and grid infill. It's one thing to have a bad print, and it's another to purposefully print stuff NOT at their recommended settings. And this is not even mentioning the incidents of them not paying their royalties for the blasters they are listing, but that is a whole other can of worms that I won't dive too deep into
@@N1sm0NIC I've heard that second story on both sides, and from what I understand that was an issue of communication for the royalties and it was sorted out, he wasn't intentionally trying not to pay. Also, I'm not 100% sure what print settings they use for the zinc, but I've used a few of Derricks and some others he's sold and they've all been solid. Some of the earlier model zincs had issues with the front barrel section coming off, but they fixed that pretty early on
@@legoboy-ox2kx well whatever they're putting out for in store display models/built variants they should that much effort to ALL orders. Like I said, personally I've seen too many fail, all ranging from hardware kits to custom machined parts, and even full built blasters. Had to either fix them myself or point them in the right direction to whoever can fix it (Zinc for instance because my printer does not have the proper tolerances to print them right). In my book they're just not worth the time and money, even if they warranty it
@@legoboy-ox2kx it is nice to hear that royalty stuff is sorted out. I don't know much of it, hence why I wasn't trying to dive deep into that
As a heads-up, DO NOT use dish gloves when messing with resin, to my understanding, the resin will permeate and eventually absorb into your skin. Use disposable exam gloves
Always happy to see more voidstar lab projects! And always happy to provide engagement on a video too
I love this guy's video takes, he literally just leaves mistakes in on purpose and i respect that
"there is only one man who would DARE give me the raspberry!"
From what I've seen, the tenacious resin is best used to mix into weaker resins to give them better flex and durability
It’s a pretty solid upgrade to nearly anything. Siraya assured me that they formulated to print in 100% tenacious, but I’ll be damned if I’ve ever seen anyone pull it off.
@@ZackFreedman try warming the room to 30C (or putting your printer in a grow tent with a fan heater)
@@ZackFreedman it's not difficult, you just have to print it in a hot room, or heat the resin. It says it right on the bottle =P 25C is a minimum imo, but better around 30C. Just don't forget the resin heats up when cured, so if you're printing larger parts the temps will go up after you start printing so don't make it too hot at the start.
@@ZackFreedman I have printed some enormous parts in tenacious notably some L shaped pieces 150x130mm they came out completely strainght after about 3 test prints. The most important part is that the part is corrrectly oriented then supported. Not every model can or should be printed in tenacious; its just too flexible for some mechanical parts.
Tenacious D, hahahaha
Those were some sexy resinlapses 🤘🤘
For the next 3d printed blaster I would love to see a mixed approach use each technology where it suit the application best, to see them shine an coalesce into the best blaster possible!
14:53 - 15:00
was not mentally prepared for that and laughed harder than I should
The potion seller meme....classic!
I love the way he completely rephrases words just for a joke.
ive missed your vids zack, your relentless delivery style is just awesome. I have tried in vein to print anywhere near as good as your do but its always a pleasure to watch you
I've experimented with different resins for impact resistance and my favorite so far hands down is Phrozen Nylon-Green Tough resin. That stuff is flippin' amazing. Siraya Blu came in a relatively close second, but nylon green is crazy good. Kinda expensive, but not nearly as expensive as other "nylon" like resins on the market. I dyed it black before printing, increased the cure time, but should help with UV exposure.
Thanks for the shout out for Blu, Now we have a Blu Nylon Black that has even higher impact resistance than Blu and still quite affordable
@@sirayatech2 Nice, it's already on the market or coming soon?
@@giovanpietro It is on Amazon US store now
@@sirayatech2 Ok, thanks, when for EU?
Reasons nobody uses resin prints for foam blasters seemed pretty obvious: lack of affordable resin printers (until recently), lack of resin printers with enough build volume.
resin is also expensive. 1kg of siraya tech blu is $50, and tenacious is nearly $70/kg. i reckon each of those blasters used at least a kilogram, possibly two or three. basic PLA and ABS average $25/kg
thank you for the potion seller reference
That Potion's master reference was spot on, this video is a banger!
My guy, I've been using a Tough 2000 Talonclaw for... 2 years on and off? Its pretty sturdy stuff
There are dozens of us. Dozens!
On the bullwork it might be good to have the grips and flywheel as resin and the majority of the rest as filament. Cuts down on weight and allows a smooth operation without the flywheel housing overheating.
I love how blunt you are about the sponsorship, no "Acuthjkaually I Already loved their product before the sponsorship blah blha blah bullsh*t" just " i like it when they give me money :)" perfect amazing 10/10 more
That potions bit, chef's kiss.
I have a small dungeon of a workshop... 2 FDM 3d printers and a Fox Alien cnc. I would love to have to resin printer but I have been scared off by the fumes/haz-mat stigma. I'm sure you lock yourself in your closet and intentionally sniff the fumes from your Photon Mono X 6K but what would you recommend for someone who doesn't want to keel over in 10 years from "orange lung"?
Zack you're absolutely crushing it mate, loev the videos, can't wait for the Every Resin Episode! =)
that potion seller bit really got me
The jokes, amazing, the content, amazing-er.
Every time I see a post I die inside.
Love it.
Very interesting to see how it actually works rather well, and has some advantages, as well as being so accurate it's a problem.
Awesome.
I use both sla and extrusion printers, you just need to realize the strengths and weaknesses of each method and mix and match parts accordingly.
I know this isn't your area of expertise but would that solution you made would that be strong enough for prop weapons
It's been a while since I saw one of your videos and I forgot your absolutely insane writing style. Even though I have very little interest in blasters, it's just a joy listening to you rapid fire 60 memes per minute
The random attack on Alton Brown and his hate of unitaskers was awesome. X'D Good Eats was the best cooking show.
I don't have a 3D printer, or a strong interest in NERFing, yet I watched the entire video (and several others in the past) just to listen to you spit mad nerd slang.... You are a comedic poet and a technical beatnik.
These videos really make me want to start building blasters again. It's been years since I was building Longshots with integrated front blasters. Would be nice to get out and start Nerfing again now that things have started up again.
You should! With competitors like Dart Zone, and tons of hobbyist creators the last two years alone, I'd say there's never been a better time to be in this hobby.
Sir, you is a wordsmither. Thank you for your rulingness.
Your scripts are getting more and more punny and i love it 😂😂😍😍
"I Gotta Rank Tenacious D" that was just perfect, left me chuckling for a good minute
There's only one man who would dare give me the raspberry!
8:02 the most underrated I've ever heard on youtube
U look like a guy that is chill af and passionate of what u do u get a sub keep it up bro
Your Radar got Jammed... great Video.
Zack: it's GAMER TIME
*uploads a video with higher than average engagement*
G A M E R T I M E
Mother of God, this had me dying laughing, thank you for the mood boost :D
Damnet man, your cool shit sends me down so many rabbit holes.
And your dry humour is ace!
DUUUUDE, That reference to the potion seller took me back. thanks for the laughs, great content!
Great video! What was the purple resin? The translucent purple that looks like the Gameboy color and n64 controllers? I really want that purple 😭
Only one man uses raspberry jam!
Love your videos bro, lol.
I am not at all surprised by these results, i have been spending the last quite a while finding and testing tough resins, and I’ve honestly found that if you have a strong enough resin then I even prefer resin printing for mechanical parts.
Nice! I’ve been waiting for this since your comment on the sniper video. Glad to see resin can do the thing.
“There is only one person who would dare give me the raspberry…lone star!”
Just a heads up, Frontline Foam has a history of IP infringement, design theft, failure to compensate designers for using their work, parts that aren’t built to the correct tolerance, horrible customer service, and lying about blaster performance. They’re well known within the nerf hobby as a brand to be avoided at all costs.
They also happen to support a particular blaster designer, who I won’t name for sake of not stirring drama, who is horrifically transphobic, homophobic, racist, and has been banned from just about every corner of the hobby.
I’d highly encourage you support more ethical shops like Out Of Darts, Foamblast, Captain Slug, Silverfox Industries, Orion Blasters, and others.
Damn, sure glad I saw this. There's no way I'm gonna support bad actors like them. Thanks!
Plus, they modify files for some of the blasters they sell (e.g. from what I’ve heard, the Zinc and XC). Hopefully the Woozi is the last thing I get from them, especially since I’ve had worse experience with their customer service lately with my Woozi project that’s still ongoing.
At VDC where we do Dartsoft we are crawling through bushes and shrubs, climbing up cliffs and even wasing through mud, plus im the summer the sun makes it sometimes 30 degrees celsius.
Will a resin blaster aurvive all that?
Dude your videos are so great. Perhaps the most entertaining vids in this genre bending category. You’ll have millions of subs before too long. YT algo do yo thang.
Im also curious about the cost difference, siraya tech while yes is considered the best for durability, comes at a much higher cost then the basic resin. how much resin was used to produce each blaster? i would imaging a couple bottles worth, and how does that cost compare to FDM for the printed parts?
I kinda want to see the parts cast from two part resin with a strengthening filler like fiberglass webbing
i swear, there is like an old internet joke every 5 seconds in this video. this is pure gold haha
I love those blue and purple translucent plastic colors! They look so much like the Nintendo 64!
OMG a vid from ZACK yESSS
Zack: Who knows what I pixelated here?
Me: I lost the bleeps, the sweeps, and Creeps!
After seeing this 2 years ago, I finally have tried my hand at it. This is my first 3D Printer. But not my first experience with 3D printing. My resin keeps curing sticky and I'm only using the clear v2 Blu, do I NEED the hard resin too? What is the ratio you used?
Im so ready for the every resin video. I shall calmly await its arrival
"Until my arm is as sore as when Brook is out of town." 7:38
Dirty jokes are 10 times funnier out of the mouth of a nerd. Nice one
“I know what I did”
HA! You are hilarious. I love you.
Another day, another phenomenal video, and yet another example of how underrated your channel is!!
You should clear coat the parts for an ultimate glassy look
Coming in a bit late here, but did you ever think about mixing in graphite or graphene to the resin in order to lower the CoF in your resin prints?
It's interesting looking at a slightly older video and seeing what names are still around in the end credits
150 is low for dual stage. What motors were you using? That's a gorgeous bulwark and the flex sheet you used is reminiscent of the pei sheets alot of nerfers use for FDM printers.
Try using some ptfe sprayed on and wiped off on your vat bottom. It basically adds an extra amount of release ability for those stubborn resins. Which might help with tenacious.
Also i was gonna go with Blu for a future print build...
Turns out yup now I'm going with Blu.
The memetic density of these videos is off the charts.
What an awesome intro. I love your humor. Keep up the good work!
6:26 I love that potion seller reference, it’s basically an old video with some idiot talking about potions using a wacky face filter. For like 5 minutes.
I'm so glad you mastered English at :21 seconds in you got a little over excited and I could not understand what you were trying to say.
Zack is casually doing more SciFi-ey stuff than any author could have ever imagined people doing today. but he is. if styro-pyro, hacksmith and alex lab did a collab with him star wars would literally be real
Literally wheeze laughed at the bathtub comment. Great job lol
the censored movie clip is there jamming us from space balls as far as i can tell