I’ve never seen that method before but for side to side play, I’ve fixed many 110’s this way, you put the front bolster in a vice crank down on it till the pivot pin stands a little proud of the bolster then tap it with a hammer and mushroom it out. Then buff it to clean up any accidental marks
Great fix and clean up at the end. Oh man, the older I get, the more I appreciate low lying fruit. Quick, easy, yet important fixes that get completed before my body has time to complain. Thank you for sharing it.
Tom, I came across a folder that had quite a bit of play in it. I used this technique and it made it much better. I suspect there's more at play (pun intended) with the lock than what meets the eye, but it was great to be able to tidy it up a bit! Thanks!
Great point! Since it’s not one of my fidget knives, and it’s small and not really being asked to do anything heavy duty, I’m hoping that it lasts a long time!
I had jus received a 4 pin vintage Schrade LB7. Aesthetically, it is really very nice after I cleaned it up. But, I’m very disappointed with the amount of up/down play. I resolved to fix that play. My OCD will have no mercy on me. I will definitely try you solution and report back. Til then, thank you for posting this video. I subbed.
Thank you very much! I appreciate that. I do like the LB7. It is just a Skosh bigger than the Buck 110. And I liked the lines. It seemed a little more refined. However… The pivots and locks seems to be sloppier. I never really had one that didn’t have any wobble. I wish you luck on your project. Keep me posted!
Well, the method in your video to correct up/down play for my newly acquired LB7 will not work. The spine of the blade, unlike your knife, Buck 110, and probably many others, is ‘hidden’ within the bolster over the entire pivot range, i.e., from close to open and back to close. So there is no way to reach the end like you did on your knife without hitting the bolster. I even tough about doing the ‘pounding’ on the key of the lock, but that is not possible without first damaging the key end. So my options are pull pins (which I really do not want to do), or just leave it the way it is. I know your method would have worked if I were able to reach that end of the blade. It really made all the sense in the world, just not on the LB7. By the way, I have a 3 pin LB7 I received as a gift in Dec., 1981. I never wore it, used it, or sharpened it. Even have the original box and paper work. And I can say that there is absolutely no play in the blade…, solid as a rock! Given your experience, I feel fortunate to have it. However, I judge other LB7’s against it and so far, I have not been able to match it.
@@alanaugust8853 Sorry for the late reply. That is a bummer. You can still make it work though. But you might have to buy one tool. A punch. They are hard and steal and come in a multitude of diameters. If you were to take your knife into a hardware store so that you can get the right punch that would fit in the slot and make contact with the blade spine, then you could put the blade in a vise and do everything like I did except hit the punch with your hammer rather than another hammer like I did in my video. You would still be able to do it at a very slight angle and probably have really good control.
The 2023 batch of GEC 72s had many examples of up/down & side play. How they got out of the factory…as a comparison the OT Bruins have zero play and great lock up.
Sorry to hear that about GEC Knives. Maybe they are trying to be just like Bark River and let substandard, subpar stuff get out the door. Thank you for the tip. I will have to try OT.
This is not a Cure All, but hopefully it helps you out. It just snugs things up. If a knife is broken, it won't help. BTW. I used to have a Red handled Puma with double lock back. Blade and scaler. Was very cool.
Yikes. That is scary. Hope you are healing quickly. Maybe for what you do that made a lockback fail, you should look into a small fixed blade like the Izula or a Benchmade with an Axis lock or Spyderco with a compression lock.
I'd be in that 1% in general already. But in the price range of GEC it is simply unacceptable! I'd return it. I have an old Rough Ryder somewhere I remember has that problem. I'll definitely try that. Thank you!
Trouble with returning it, is if I want to get replacement, it may be better or worse and the bone scales may not be as nice. Because these are so custom, there are so many factors and it was just more practical to fix it.
I’ve never seen that method before but for side to side play, I’ve fixed many 110’s this way, you put the front bolster in a vice crank down on it till the pivot pin stands a little proud of the bolster then tap it with a hammer and mushroom it out. Then buff it to clean up any accidental marks
That is exactly the way I do it too.
Thank you for watching and commenting!!!
Great fix and clean up at the end.
Oh man, the older I get, the more I appreciate low lying fruit.
Quick, easy, yet important fixes that get completed before my body has time to complain.
Thank you for sharing it.
That’s funny! Glad you liked the video and the fix. Been doing that one for years but it didn’t occur to me to ever make a video of it. Glad I did!
Amen ! Well said , I agree!
My buck 110 was in my tuxedo pocket during my wedding. I’m glad to see one in your video
That does my Heart well. I love stories like that. I only had my Swiss Army Knife Climber in my pocket.
Tom, I came across a folder that had quite a bit of play in it. I used this technique and it made it much better. I suspect there's more at play (pun intended) with the lock than what meets the eye, but it was great to be able to tidy it up a bit!
Thanks!
Cool! I’m glad it worked for you. Puns are always welcome!
Nice. I just purchased a similar GEC and it has the slightest bit of up and down play when locked open. I just might try this, thanks.
I hope it works!!! Keep me posted!
Love it would never have thought about it, genius.
Thank you!!
Great info to keep in the memory vault. 👍
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for saying so.
Nicely done. Makes perfect sense! Thanks.
Thank you. It’s been my little secret for a long time I just thought I would share it.
Very nice information 😊
Thank you. I appreciate that very much.
That reminds me of burnishing a small ding on a watch, to push the material back into the ding and make the small crater almost go away. Thanks!
Kinda like that. I’ve done that to some of my wife’s rings. Rather than polish away metal burnish the material right back where it belongs.
something i would not have immediately thought about .. but super cool fix.
be interesting to see how the "peen" holds up over extended usage :)
Great point! Since it’s not one of my fidget knives, and it’s small and not really being asked to do anything heavy duty, I’m hoping that it lasts a long time!
I had jus received a 4 pin vintage Schrade LB7. Aesthetically, it is really very nice after I cleaned it up. But, I’m very disappointed with the amount of up/down play. I resolved to fix that play. My OCD will have no mercy on me. I will definitely try you solution and report back. Til then, thank you for posting this video. I subbed.
Thank you very much! I appreciate that. I do like the LB7. It is just a Skosh bigger than the Buck 110. And I liked the lines. It seemed a little more refined. However… The pivots and locks seems to be sloppier. I never really had one that didn’t have any wobble. I wish you luck on your project. Keep me posted!
Well, the method in your video to correct up/down play for my newly acquired LB7 will not work. The spine of the blade, unlike your knife, Buck 110, and probably many others, is ‘hidden’ within the bolster over the entire pivot range, i.e., from close to open and back to close. So there is no way to reach the end like you did on your knife without hitting the bolster. I even tough about doing the ‘pounding’ on the key of the lock, but that is not possible without first damaging the key end. So my options are pull pins (which I really do not want to do), or just leave it the way it is. I know your method would have worked if I were able to reach that end of the blade. It really made all the sense in the world, just not on the LB7. By the way, I have a 3 pin LB7 I received as a gift in Dec., 1981. I never wore it, used it, or sharpened it. Even have the original box and paper work. And I can say that there is absolutely no play in the blade…, solid as a rock! Given your experience, I feel fortunate to have it. However, I judge other LB7’s against it and so far, I have not been able to match it.
@@alanaugust8853 Sorry for the late reply. That is a bummer. You can still make it work though. But you might have to buy one tool. A punch. They are hard and steal and come in a multitude of diameters. If you were to take your knife into a hardware store so that you can get the right punch that would fit in the slot and make contact with the blade spine, then you could put the blade in a vise and do everything like I did except hit the punch with your hammer rather than another hammer like I did in my video. You would still be able to do it at a very slight angle and probably have really good control.
Pretty cool. Thanks!
Glad you liked it. Thank you for commenting!!
Thanks! Appreciate it 👍
Glad you liked it!
Good to know! Thanks
You’re welcome. Thanks for watching. And if you give it a try, I hope it works for you!
The 2023 batch of GEC 72s had many examples of up/down & side play. How they got out of the factory…as a comparison the OT Bruins have zero play and great lock up.
Sorry to hear that about GEC Knives. Maybe they are trying to be just like Bark River and let substandard, subpar stuff get out the door. Thank you for the tip. I will have to try OT.
Nice knife...I just spent to much to order the GEC Remington Bullet. Will be my first and only GEC...
I bet it will be beautiful! And since it’s not a lock back. You won’t have any problem.
A little OCD? I have a Puma folder that my Uncle closed without releasing the lock that now has wiggle. Thanks for the idea!
This is not a Cure All, but hopefully it helps you out. It just snugs things up. If a knife is broken, it won't help. BTW. I used to have a Red handled Puma with double lock back. Blade and scaler. Was very cool.
Great vid, many thx!
Glad you liked it! Thank you very much for watching!
Genius. Great video. I’m subbed 👍
Wow! That was very nice of you to say. Thank you very much. And thank you for subscribing!
Will this work on a spyderco police?
It will work on any lockback.
I’m that 1% that can’t stand it, and my #72 came just like your describing!
So I guess that just makes the two of us.😂👍🏻
So, I guess that was an “Almost” Great Eastern Cutlery piece.
Very well put. Yep, "Almost"
The lock gave out on me and ended up with me in the e.r. Hopefully I can fix it
Yikes. That is scary. Hope you are healing quickly. Maybe for what you do that made a lockback fail, you should look into a small fixed blade like the Izula or a Benchmade with an Axis lock or Spyderco with a compression lock.
Genius
Thank you very much!!!
спасибо
You are very welcome!!
I have BEEN to Hawaii!
Aloha.
So, what you're saying is they have poor quality control.
Hmmm. I guess you are right.
Or you could carbidize the lock surfaces.
That is true. But this was free!
I'd be in that 1% in general already. But in the price range of GEC it is simply unacceptable! I'd return it.
I have an old Rough Ryder somewhere I remember has that problem. I'll definitely try that.
Thank you!
Trouble with returning it, is if I want to get replacement, it may be better or worse and the bone scales may not be as nice. Because these are so custom, there are so many factors and it was just more practical to fix it.
Looks like a 72 pattern to me
I can’t remember if it was a 72 or 73. Very thin and light.