I realize this video is 5 years old. But for anyone watching, the up and down wiggle is in part due to running the knife in an ultrasonic cleaner with the blade in the fully opened position. It creates wear due to the friction between the blade and the lock bar. Anyone with actual training for the proper use of an ultrasonic cleaner knows you do not run a hinged instrument in its fully opened or fully closed position for that very reason. And especially not locked open. But hey...it's your Buck knife. You do with it as you want.
@@Hexsyn I'm not going to call it "ideal". Better for the blade and lock bar, but you also have to consider what is happening to the wood and the rivets in an ultrasonic cleaner. I own a professional grade ultrasonic cleaner and I've never put a knife in it.
i had an old beat up Buck 110 since my high school days , much worse than this. I sent it to buck and it came back like it was brand new except for a ding that was to deep to fix....amazing service
I use Brasso to clean the brass on my knife. It takes a lot less time and it does a great job on making it shine and can even remove slight scratches. My pivot pins have never came lose
I’ve used brasso lots, works great as well. The ultrasonic cleaner works really well for getting all the grit and grime out from deep inside the handle and pivot. Have you ever used neverdull polishing wool? It works really well also.
If you want to fix back and forth movement on the blade you can easily use a pointed steel punch and hit the pivot pin dead center...this will widen the upper pin part and make a tight fit...if there is movement up and down on the blade...it does not lock up tight....use a hammer and a small block of steel to bevel the back of the locking edge of the tang area...this will widen the tang and make a tight lock!!
I did try mushrooming the pin out like that but I think the pin itself has wore/lost thickness in the area of the pivot hole in the blade. I maybe didn’t hit it hard enough though. I should give it another try. Thanks!
I don’t remember what I started with but I think it would have been around 800 and I would have worked up to 4000 or something close. If you have a dremel with a buffing wheel you could get away with a lower grit sandpaper than 4000.
giadamino I think the only way to fix that would be to drive the brass pin out that the blade pivots on and replace it with a new one. I may look at doing that but it is much better then it was before at least
@@gravytrainoutdoors so I made that question, because I've got same problem on a Buck 110 vintage I purchased some days ago. Lateral blade play solved with a squeeze in a vise, but not solved up and down play, my bad...
giadamino you could also send it in to Buck and I believe they will fix it under warranty. The other thing to check is that the gunk is totally cleaned out of the lockback part. If it’s not mating tightly it will rock because of that too
@@gravytrainoutdoors thanks a lot for your advise, but... I live in Italy! So is extremely difficutl to send my knife to Buck factory for a "spa reatment"...Maybe I can send to Post Falls Idaho with Fedex, but I may pay much more than what I paid (50 € equal to (roughly) 60 $). And I don't know if Buck send to Italy after repair work... So I'll keep it as it is...
giadamino no problem! It wouldn’t hurt to ask Buck if they would cover the shipping. They are a pretty good company to deal with and maybe just cover the cost for you?
I've got a Buck 112 I bought super cheap, like $12 because the seller just wanted to get rid of it, the pins seem to have been grinded down, and there is slightly play in the blade. How can I fix that?
Sometimes you can put the bolster where the pivot pin is on a piece of soft wood or something similar and tap it with a soft mallet and that will snug up side to side blade play but if the blade has rocking play then the pin is worn and would need to be replaced. I would send it into Buck and have them fix it if that’s the case. I think they charge something like $10 and your knife will look like new when it’s returned to you so it’s well worth it IMO
Grizzly Country I’ve had a few that had a lot of buffing compound still inside the handle. If you have compressed air try blowing it out that way. Hot soapy water with a pipe cleaning brush will do the trick also
It’s a reloading ultrasonic cleaner for cleaner rifle and pistol brass but it can be used for anything an ultra sonic cleaner can be used for. You could try any local gun shops which might carry them?
I thought Buck gave lifetime guarantee, correct me if I am wrong, second point, the 110 is not a great price is it worth the bother rather than replace it? By the way is there a way to tell how old a Buck 110 is?
Graham Parr buck does have a great lifetime warranty. This is an older Buck 110 with a 440c blade which is desirable and worth the effort to clean up and restore. The newer ones that aren’t any different than what you replace it off the shelf with wouldn’t be worth the trouble I suppose. Here is a link to a video I did that talks about how to date the 110/112 folders. How to date a 1974-Current Buck 110/112 folder th-cam.com/video/2-0xlQxtSFY/w-d-xo.html. Thanks for watching!
Yes they use a stamp on the Tang. I try to buy one every year or two, one is because they are so inexpensive and two because they are built to last with good materials and Boss Heat treatment on the steel, and they have many other steel besides 420hc on the WEB site. I got one older than the one in the video.
I am going to use that aound as my ringtone. So soothing.....😵💫.
I realize this video is 5 years old. But for anyone watching, the up and down wiggle is in part due to running the knife in an ultrasonic cleaner with the blade in the fully opened position. It creates wear due to the friction between the blade and the lock bar. Anyone with actual training for the proper use of an ultrasonic cleaner knows you do not run a hinged instrument in its fully opened or fully closed position for that very reason. And especially not locked open. But hey...it's your Buck knife. You do with it as you want.
So it would be ideal for the knife to be half open? Like at a 90 degree angle?
@@Hexsyn I'm not going to call it "ideal". Better for the blade and lock bar, but you also have to consider what is happening to the wood and the rivets in an ultrasonic cleaner. I own a professional grade ultrasonic cleaner and I've never put a knife in it.
Looks like it to the finish off the wood 🫣
i had an old beat up Buck 110 since my high school days , much worse than this. I sent it to buck and it came back like it was brand new except for a ding that was to deep to fix....amazing service
That’s very cool! I’ve heard that now from a few people. Good to hear!
I use Brasso to clean the brass on my knife. It takes a lot less time and it does a great job on making it shine and can even remove slight scratches. My pivot pins have never came lose
I’ve used brasso lots, works great as well. The ultrasonic cleaner works really well for getting all the grit and grime out from deep inside the handle and pivot. Have you ever used neverdull polishing wool? It works really well also.
If you want to fix back and forth movement on the blade you can easily use a pointed steel punch and hit the pivot pin dead center...this will widen the upper pin part and make a tight fit...if there is movement up and down on the blade...it does not lock up tight....use a hammer and a small block of steel to bevel the back of the locking edge of the tang area...this will widen the tang and make a tight lock!!
I did try mushrooming the pin out like that but I think the pin itself has wore/lost thickness in the area of the pivot hole in the blade. I maybe didn’t hit it hard enough though. I should give it another try. Thanks!
It is called peening.
Abrasive on the brass ! What grit emery paper ?
I think it was around 1000. I might have started with that and gone up to a higher grit but don’t remember exactly.
What is the name of the spray u used on it
Faisal Abdulrehman Amsoil Metal Protector
Thanks
Well done !
What grit numbers did you use for the sand paper?
I don’t remember what I started with but I think it would have been around 800 and I would have worked up to 4000 or something close. If you have a dremel with a buffing wheel you could get away with a lower grit sandpaper than 4000.
what about up and down blade play?
giadamino I think the only way to fix that would be to drive the brass pin out that the blade pivots on and replace it with a new one. I may look at doing that but it is much better then it was before at least
@@gravytrainoutdoors so I made that question, because I've got same problem on a Buck 110 vintage I purchased some days ago. Lateral blade play solved with a squeeze in a vise, but not solved up and down play, my bad...
giadamino you could also send it in to Buck and I believe they will fix it under warranty. The other thing to check is that the gunk is totally cleaned out of the lockback part. If it’s not mating tightly it will rock because of that too
@@gravytrainoutdoors thanks a lot for your advise, but... I live in Italy! So is extremely difficutl to send my knife to Buck factory for a "spa reatment"...Maybe I can send to Post Falls Idaho with Fedex, but I may pay much more than what I paid (50 € equal to (roughly) 60 $). And I don't know if Buck send to Italy after repair work... So
I'll keep it as it is...
giadamino no problem! It wouldn’t hurt to ask Buck if they would cover the shipping. They are a pretty good company to deal with and maybe just cover the cost for you?
Can you link the ultrasonic cleaner? Please and thank you.
Peter Mcdonald here is a link to the same ultrasonic Cleaner I used. amzn.to/2Lrbxsv
You can send it to Buck and they will give it their Spa treatment for 10 dollars and put a new blade in it. But you did pretty well.
thank you!
Emery paper on the brass ? YIKES, what grit ?
It was 1500 or more if I remember correctly. The brass is soft and it’s very easy to buff out the scratch patterns from the sand paper.
I've got a Buck 112 I bought super cheap, like $12 because the seller just wanted to get rid of it, the pins seem to have been grinded down, and there is slightly play in the blade.
How can I fix that?
Sometimes you can put the bolster where the pivot pin is on a piece of soft wood or something similar and tap it with a soft mallet and that will snug up side to side blade play but if the blade has rocking play then the pin is worn and would need to be replaced. I would send it into Buck and have them fix it if that’s the case. I think they charge something like $10 and your knife will look like new when it’s returned to you so it’s well worth it IMO
They might not been ground down!! The very old 72-74 Buck 112 had flush pins!!
@@jamespeters5913 there were machine marks, and it has the buck stamp on it, used to be rusty too
Mine is grimy/gritty and it's a brand new exclusive buck 110.
Grizzly Country I’ve had a few that had a lot of buffing compound still inside the handle. If you have compressed air try blowing it out that way. Hot soapy water with a pipe cleaning brush will do the trick also
Send it back to Buck for repair. They will fix wobble under warranty and give the SPA treatment for free.
Nice work,Where can i get the Ultra Sonic cleaner? That was awesome,i am a beginner knife restorer
It’s a reloading ultrasonic cleaner for cleaner rifle and pistol brass but it can be used for anything an ultra sonic cleaner can be used for. You could try any local gun shops which might carry them?
Clearly in the video I see the lockback is bent, causes back and forth looseness
I thought Buck gave lifetime guarantee, correct me if I am wrong, second point, the 110 is not a great price is it worth the bother rather than replace it? By the way is there a way to tell how old a Buck 110 is?
Graham Parr buck does have a great lifetime warranty. This is an older Buck 110 with a 440c blade which is desirable and worth the effort to clean up and restore. The newer ones that aren’t any different than what you replace it off the shelf with wouldn’t be worth the trouble I suppose. Here is a link to a video I did that talks about how to date the 110/112 folders. How to date a 1974-Current Buck 110/112 folder th-cam.com/video/2-0xlQxtSFY/w-d-xo.html. Thanks for watching!
Yes they use a stamp on the Tang. I try to buy one every year or two, one is because they are so inexpensive and two because they are built to last with good materials and Boss Heat treatment on the steel, and they have many other steel besides 420hc on the WEB site. I got one older than the one in the video.
@@gravytrainoutdoors Not bad at all ☺
Some people are self reliant, and can fix their own shit.
I have better idea. Buy a new one. 😊
How would I have any fun then? 😁