Thanks for sharing this helpful and precise video. This is exactly what we need, I have the same problem with my volvo. I will use your technique to get the job done. God Bless you Aleks, sharing Jesus from John 11:25-26
Great video. My blower stopped working on my '13 S60 and this helped me diagnose and fix it. Thank you so much!!!! Just a heads up to make it a little easier. The factory has the firewall padding in that area already scored. If you just yank with a pair of pliers a nice pre-cut piece of sound deadening will come out and the install is MUCH easier. Thank you again!
@@jackalex1969 I am doing now on a 2013 s60. There appears to be a precut "flap" that you can pull out and shove up out of way to make room for removal of part. Getting back in is the challenge. Thanks for video
Ugg got it back in and still no blower motor. I pulled the fuse block apart and checked the 40A, which was good. I put back together and still no blower. I cycled the car through all the different blower modes, finally turning off with knob. I heard a click when turning it off, and then by some miracle, the blower started working again when I turned it back on and in all modes I try. Was that something like a calibration? I had battery unhooked, so system had rebooted itself...Not sure but working now. Tx for video!
I appreciate this video. Thanks for posting it. It's the best one on the internet so far. My blower stopped (2010 XC70) and I am typing to get it out right now. I just want to jump the wires to test if the blower will run, not sure if i can unplug the plug w/o taking the unit out. 🤔 It doesn't seem as if you removed the insulation behind the module, which is supposed to make it easier to get in and out (on mine it is actually already sliced, i have to pull a chunk of it away and then there is a bit more space in the narrow opening to get it out. Thanks again for this. (also, anyone wanting to get to the fuse.. getting the top fuse block out isn't easy... you must find ALL the tabs to release it upward (plus the 10mm nut). It's not difficult, but some of the tabs are black-on-black... the one nearest the battery is. If they are All released, it will pry upward, pulling on fins with pliers) It's highly unlikely its your fuse, but i guess we need to check first) ~
Thanks for the video, it made the replacement less painful. 2012 Volvo S60 T5 My first attempt failed, could not get my fingers on both clips of the wire harness. Tried removing the pedal bracket, removed a few nuts and then spotted a nut high up that's next to impossible to reach. Those nuts are locknuts with about 1 1/8 inch of threaded rod, you could watch a movie while removing. I made a tool to fit the shaped plastic protrusion on the part, not my finest tool making as I didn't have Dunkin Donut coffee beforehand. The tool is like a key, it was easy to remove the old part, also made a simple tool out of a heavy coat hanger to pinch both clips on the wire harness, mig welded a handle to make it easier for one handed operation. My tool worked good when tightening new part, welding on a handle to the tool for one handed operation. I placed a piece of plywood on the car door frame and a few plastic buckets, laid on my back using my right hand, left hand was no help, (wear light gloves, I only lost a little thumb knuckle skin) I used 1/8"x 1/2" flat bar for the tool, shaped the flat bar with a ball peen hammer, mig welded 4 pieces to form the key shape, then welded it to 1 1/4" flat bar 1 3/4" long. I changed the driver door mirror sensor, the cabin climate sensor, now the resistor and I have a blower motor at the ready if there are any more climate problems. I have an easier job tomorrow, replacing the driver door mirror after the original one fell off and broke, I'll have Dunkin Donuts finest coffee before I start.
Big tip, definitely remove the cut-out insulation piece and use your left hand to pinch the 2 tabs on the wire harness Than you so much for this video!
Hello, thanks for your video. I have had to replace mine twice now and I have noticed every 15 seconds I hear the fan kind of pules. Any idea what could be going on? Even with the fan off every 15 seconds I hear a noise in the blower motor area.
Thanks for sharing this helpful and precise video. This is exactly what we need, I have the same problem with my volvo. I will use your technique to get the job done. God Bless you Aleks, sharing Jesus from John 11:25-26
Great video. My blower stopped working on my '13 S60 and this helped me diagnose and fix it. Thank you so much!!!! Just a heads up to make it a little easier. The factory has the firewall padding in that area already scored. If you just yank with a pair of pliers a nice pre-cut piece of sound deadening will come out and the install is MUCH easier. Thank you again!
Can you explain please
@@jackalex1969 I am doing now on a 2013 s60. There appears to be a precut "flap" that you can pull out and shove up out of way to make room for removal of part. Getting back in is the challenge. Thanks for video
Ugg got it back in and still no blower motor. I pulled the fuse block apart and checked the 40A, which was good. I put back together and still no blower. I cycled the car through all the different blower modes, finally turning off with knob. I heard a click when turning it off, and then by some miracle, the blower started working again when I turned it back on and in all modes I try. Was that something like a calibration? I had battery unhooked, so system had rebooted itself...Not sure but working now. Tx for video!
I have a 2011 Volvo S60 T6 is it the same process because my fan motor want work please explain
I appreciate this video. Thanks for posting it. It's the best one on the internet so far. My blower stopped (2010 XC70) and I am typing to get it out right now. I just want to jump the wires to test if the blower will run, not sure if i can unplug the plug w/o taking the unit out. 🤔 It doesn't seem as if you removed the insulation behind the module, which is supposed to make it easier to get in and out (on mine it is actually already sliced, i have to pull a chunk of it away and then there is a bit more space in the narrow opening to get it out. Thanks again for this. (also, anyone wanting to get to the fuse.. getting the top fuse block out isn't easy... you must find ALL the tabs to release it upward (plus the 10mm nut). It's not difficult, but some of the tabs are black-on-black... the one nearest the battery is. If they are All released, it will pry upward, pulling on fins with pliers) It's highly unlikely its your fuse, but i guess we need to check first) ~
Thanks for the video, it made the replacement less painful. 2012 Volvo S60 T5
My first attempt failed, could not get my fingers on both clips of the wire harness. Tried removing the pedal bracket, removed a few nuts and then spotted a nut high up that's next to impossible to reach. Those nuts are locknuts with about
1 1/8 inch of threaded rod, you could watch a movie while removing.
I made a tool to fit the shaped plastic protrusion on the part, not my finest tool making as I didn't have Dunkin Donut coffee beforehand. The tool is like a key, it was easy to remove the old part, also made a simple tool out of a heavy coat hanger to pinch both clips on the wire harness, mig welded a handle to make it easier for one handed operation.
My tool worked good when tightening new part, welding on a handle to the tool for one handed operation.
I placed a piece of plywood on the car door frame and a few plastic buckets, laid on my back using my right hand, left hand was no help, (wear light gloves, I only lost a little thumb knuckle skin)
I used 1/8"x 1/2" flat bar for the tool, shaped the flat bar with a ball peen hammer, mig welded 4 pieces to form the key shape, then welded it to 1 1/4" flat bar 1 3/4" long.
I changed the driver door mirror sensor, the cabin climate sensor, now the resistor and I have a blower motor at the ready if there are any more climate problems.
I have an easier job tomorrow, replacing the driver door mirror after the original one fell off and broke, I'll have Dunkin Donuts finest coffee before I start.
Read like a poem, thank you!
Big tip, definitely remove the cut-out insulation piece and use your left hand to pinch the 2 tabs on the wire harness
Than you so much for this video!
Thank you for the video! I'm going to try to do it right now. Good luck to me and SPASIBO to you!
Great video, very thoughtful diagnosis. Helpful explanation of the removal and install process.
Very helpful video. A bit tight working in the small place, but laying face up in the wheelwell and using left hand did the job inside of an hour!;
Thank you! I had never made it if it wasnt for your help, felt like we did together!🙂 (it wasnt an easy job)
Hi Alexs, thank you so much for your great video. Helped me a lot. Greetings from Germany. Michael.
So how easy should the fan spin? mine spins but it stops after like a second when i let go of it
How can anyone get a grip of both sides of the harness?
I have a 2011 Volvo S60 T6, 3.0 is the resistor and fan motor the same on my car and your car and can you explain this please friend
Should I replace the resistor also to get fan motor moving
Thanks for the great information!
Thank you for this video.
Hello, thanks for your video. I have had to replace mine twice now and I have noticed every 15 seconds I hear the fan kind of pules. Any idea what could be going on? Even with the fan off every 15 seconds I hear a noise in the blower motor area.
Thanks a lot for this very helpful Video. Today i had successfuly exchanged the resistor on my 2014 Volvo V70 👍🏻
Best regards from Germany
Perfect vid,👍👍👍
Thnx u so much
Great video!
شكرا جزيلا الفديو رائع
so you can't see how you get it out
Thanks
Bra Bil. Volvo