The assembly of the lawn mower could be done without any problems th-cam.com/users/postUgkxTPN04aT-Qdjr_KS3ql7ng8wnU3wwsCqk also recommend I just puzzled something about the red strange “key”. However, it quickly turned out that this creates a kind of contact bridge between battery packs and lawn mowers. An additional backup as a father of a 1 year old nephew is great!! :-)
in most cases it brings them back to the right speed! springs stretch after years of hot/cold and numerous extensions and vibrations so it makes sense to bend it out after a couple thousand hours to give it the 3,600rpm it needs. We see too many mowers/tractors coming into the shop that are running around 3,000 or even as low as 2,700. Once we bring them back up customers respond saying it "mows like new" and "has the power/speed it was always supposed to have".
@@nigelplantin6477 I got a 1974 Allis Chalmers 610 my grandfather and me got a Briggs and Stratton engine on it were gonna get the engine started she's a loud engine fire pops out of the exhaust the hitch is massive they can pull alot of Stuff Allis Chalmers are rare
They show how to make this adjustment in the briggs service manual. It's how you adjust the RPM. It's no secret. In fact I think they even make a tool to make it easier to get in there to bend the tang the spring is on instead of using pliers.
Great video fearless and big thumbs up for doing it! I, myself will probably never mess with my governor but as many others have commented people are going to do it anyway. I appreciate you showing everyone the "safe" way to do it so they don't kill themselves trying on their own. Anyway, sweet video as always!
If you are worried about scattering a flywheel build a cage around it like the race mower rules talk about. That way maybe it won't slice your legs off when it blows apart. I think I may try to put a 1/4 in plate behind the engine so I have a little protection. Haha, when doin stupid things, remember safety first!!!
the way my mower is is that I can stick my hand in the engine while I drive it and push the throttle down farther than it would go with my foot and so then I can go really fast only problem is while I'm racing along I awkwardly have my arm inside my engine lol
so does the govenor need to be connected to the carb? Ifeel like it does..I put on an after market carb and only have linkage from the gas pedal to the butterfly valve on the carb. ( not to the original choke cable, throttle cable mounting plate) any advise is appreciated!! as are all your vids!!
Actually a good video out of all I watched yours was the most informational one to actually show how it's done the rest just talk and show off...good job man keep em comeing
Honestly with a flywheel that is in good shape, you won't be able to scatter it by merely bypassing or adjusting the governor. Valve float will limit the top RPM below that level. If you start messing with stiffer valve springs, and other mods that defeat valve float, then you better think shields and billet flywheels and stuff. A much more important warning is this - Don't ever use a flywheel that has been modified, pryed on, dropped, or otherwise damaged as they can scatter / explode even at normal engine speed.
I bought a Timorn Tach/Hour Meter with the wire that wraps around the spark plug cord to be able to set my Tractor Mower to the OEM Manual's 1750 RPM Idle. I'd do that with the Carburetor Idle Screw, but if I can find the Full Throttle RPM, I can adjust the Governor Spring tension as necessary. I searched your videos for an air/fuel adjustment procedure, but didn't find one. If you have one or could make one for this same Tractor Mower or one like it, I would greatly appreciate a link to an existing one, if you have one, or a new video. Or would you know the typical Full Throttle RPM for a Briggs & Stratton 31P977-0635-E1 Single Cylinder OHV? Thanks in advance.
Excellent video, you told me not to do it, of course I did it. Just pulled the tab a tiny bit, blew the motor in 5 seconds. Had nothing to loose, the engine was tired and I needed more RPM's. I have a replacement motor. You have a new subscriber, thanks Todd.
would you recommend putting a rpm gauge on your lawn tractor after mess with the governor? if so a rpm gauge would look badass on the murray by the way
Hell na bro, appreciate the tip on the governor. Also great job on explaining the dangers of doing this mod. Anytime you modify any engine in any way that it runs out of factory rated specs. That's is on he/ or she that makes that decision. Keep up the good work.
I have a 21 horse Briggs I cleaned the carb, put it back on? The way it's suppose to but it's like the rod is too long ? Governor doesnt move because it's almost all the way to the right? What did I do wrong !
Good video. You showed how to adjust governed speed properly. Bend tab opposite way to reduce speed. Use a digital tach as you suggested to keep RPM in the safe range. Had a flywheel disintegrate and it came right through the engine shroud and flew all over the shop. It was metal fatigue, I started it up after a carb clean. Was making adjustments, no overspeed, and she went. Yes, dangerous, be careful. Thanks for the video’s.
A friends 18.5 hp B&S was running wide open. Checked the governor linkage, etc. Finally found the carb butterfly was not in the carb. It was lodged in the intake manifold. Screws missing and apparently passed through the engine. First time we had seen this.
sometimes its better to just show people so they really know what can happen rather then not saying or showing them anything at all, I found it useful and appreciate the right knowledge that came with the demonstration. thumbs up from me.
Information, including warnings always appreciated! My 14.5 seems to be running to slow, so after confirming with a digital tach, this may help correct the issue.
I work at a small engine shop and this engine and the higher and lower HP version with this head blow head gaskets.right in the middle of the push rods from the piston cylinder blows right thru over time. all 3 head gaskets for the 3 different hp same head all do the same. the new replacement head has a lil more meat on it but no info if it fixes it or not entirely.
Thanks for the video about a year ago i was playing around with a push mower and i found the govner and turn it up and i thought it was going to take flight lol keep it up fearless.
I also have the same murray you do. Not sure of the year but my buddy bruce you've had contact with said it's the same mower. Was just wondering if lifting the motor to the larger pulley would work instead of cutting and welding. PLEASE let me know. Thanks fearless! You're a boss!
The most dangerous thing about governor modification is free spinning the engine in neutral. If the engine is under load then the internals will be biased and eliminate most irregularities like slop, and damaging harmonic resonations. Problem with tractors is their low gearing which allows their engine to spool up with very little load. People don’t realize how much power/torque larger displacement engines really make. Over sizing your pulleys can be a safer alternative for the engine.
Yes this adjustment is OK because you use a tach, I use the tiny tach its digital. Tach monitoring is essential and I recommend reading the engines power curve and setting it to that rpm. where the engine puts out the most power. Many governor are set wrong as the spring gets old or sits in the hole wrong angle as you show. I have used a 13hp. engine on a hovercraft and needed a bit more rpm. to get the prop spinning at an optimum rpm. I went to about 3800 on an engine that had the power curve rpm at 3400.
I need to fix this on my old craftsman. I want it back to the way it was I dint want to adjust the rpm. Can you please take a better photo of how the linkages are set up behind the plate. I understand the difficulty but it would make a world of difference.
Even though this is not reccomended, I'm glad you did this video. Usually there's no stopping people who want to do this, at least now they can see what to do and probably how to do it without killing themselves.
That was my thought too... I don't think it's a great idea to "experiment" with governor linkages. I figured this would take some of the guess work out of it
I just did an engine swap and got a 12.5 I/C....it was running great and I was doing a test run on a clutch adjustment and I let the clutch go and it did a wheelie and then started running absolutely wide open,any idea what may have happened?
implanning on making a offroad mower with a friend from school, i was wondering what size pulleys are the best and size rims and tires are the best? thanks
Hey man, just started my first mower. I got a Huskee Limited edition 20HP briggs and straton amd the keyway on the shaft is different than most. Instead of the keyway being cur into the pulley there is a groove cut into the shaft. If you would like I can make a video showing what it looks like
I agree with StarPuss. If you want to go more than 4000 rpm, get a billet aluminum flywheel and do the proper mods: 4200 rpm and up: valve train (depends on maximum rpm) 5000 rpm and up: billet aluminum connecting rod.
Hi, Im thirteen years old and i have a mower with a ohv Briggs and Stratton 18hp. I already pulley swapped, and rewired all the safety features. I usually pull around sleds with kids who are around 100-200 and we go off hills and jumps, I did what you showed in the video, i was wondering if i could run the engine for like 2 hours and be pulling weight at full throttle or would that be to much for the stock engine? Sooner the better so pls respond fast. Thank you ahead of time.
keep it under 4k RPm and make sure you run zinc phosphorus small engine motor oils only. anbd dont weight overload the motor it can flex the crank and cam and cause mechanical faiures. especially camshaft flex and pushrod issues.
I set up an new engine on my mower and it is running at about 4800 rpms, I need to slow it down, so this information I hope will help me.I'm going to lengthen the spring.
I have my throttle cable right around my governor, motor has lasted a very long time and rarely burns oil but I have enough power to go through things. but it's probably horrible for the engine.
Thanks for the video! my tractor when i full throttle the carb it dies right as it hits high RMPs like the governor is coming on too quickly, I cleaned the carb and checked everything with no change, adjusting the governor may fix this issue. thanks!
I have a rot pedal bypass on my 16.5 BRANDNEW motor another words it runs on normal governed but the foot pedal bypasses it no tools required to by pass while riding
Thanks for the tip on a opposed twin there is a built in gov adjuster on the throttle arm i got mine running at 4850rpm dont worry its not a stock motor and i have a tach just so i can make sure it no over rev to 5500rpm.
I did this but just bent it straight up and down and then later on I figured I didn't want the risk of blowing up my engine so I bent it back down and now for some reason the governor won't move when I move the throttle back and fourth. Any suggestions on what I did wrong?
not hating, just some suggestions and notes. 1. before doing ANY work adjusting the governor, it is best to get the engine in the proper configuration. If you skip these steps in setup then any adjustments you make in the governor will be masking and potentially causing more problems that you are trying to solve/ a. install the damned exhaust/muffler. Yes, that small amount of back pressure is necessary as these engines are designed for backpressure from exhaust. this is important for proper tuning. b. make sure your timing, coil and sparkplug are working correctly. c. setting the proper valve clearance and even cleaning the head cylinder and valve lapping is important...all of these things will give you best performance and help make the engine work more efficiently and it will last much longer. d. change the oil e. clean off the engine head cylinder...especially the aluminum cooling fins. f. change the oil. and filter g. make sure the fuel filter and fuel pump are not blocked and are working correctly. h. clean the carb with attention to the air needle valve and the main jet with emulsion tube holes cleared and cleaned. i. make sure and test to make sure you don't have any air leaks in the air intake manifold. change gaskets if you do and solve that. A lean condition engine is going to prematurely fail over time. j. clean the air filter..oil it is that is what is required...some require a slight oil..some do not. k. make sure your gas is not contaminated and flows freely from tank outlet into fuel line. make sure there is no water. l. Check and make sure your fuel cap vent is working...loosen it and if engine performance improves, then you know the vent is not working...fix that. 2. now check your engine performance. In almost every single situation if you have done all of the above preventative maintenance things above, this is going to give you the performance increases. And this means you don't mess with the governor! it's just that simple. 3. there are only four reasons to mess with the governor: a. you messed with it and now you need to get it back correctly. Look for other videos on how to PROPERLY adjust the governor. It's different from B&S compared to kohler compared to kawasaki. Refer to the service manual for specifics. b. your governor is broken or missing a spring. If the governor does not work, then it's probably broken internally. prepare to learn how to do complicated and time consuming repairs to your mower or just take it to a small engine shop. If the spring is missing, find the part and replace it. c. you are building a racing mower or racing engine and you just don't care that it will blow up and not last very long. You just want to go fast for maybe 50 hours before the engine blows up. Good luck and be safe. d. you don't know what you are doing and you found a video that sounded interesting and so without thinking you decide you want extra power from your lawn mower that was never designed to produce that kind of power. Good luck...may the safety gods looks favorably on your condition God Bless America
Not 100% sure, but I think they make more torque at lower rpm's. and better HP in the upper end. But this doesn't build horsepower, it just increases RPMs. With a pulley swap, it can result in more top speed
I did a very minor adjustment becaus i have a 11 hp brigs and wanted a little more power very small bend and mine is still kinda down thx for the informative video
i.bought a murray and i put the electric start like how u did it works great for the water holes an i was at a frieands muden on his hill an slipedfown an hit a tree i was eorking on the exost the night prier so i had no hood an it mesed up the govner what i put a new spring on an ran at 3800 rm so i levt it for the maxexed but the tree messed it up i seen your video that peace bent way down the only way it would run was manuly pull it but i look at the peace a after this video bent it strate with the new spting it's back being the king its got a 18 hourse ovh with new compresed exost what added a hourse but with the 19 runing it over heats in a hour how can i fix that but the stock oil filter i got the exost from do u think that would work i am tring to invoed that i an only 14 i work but 200 doller parts are alot of hours
i have a question my cousin has a briggs & stratton v twin motor and it will only fire on one side he had the whole thing apart and it still won't fire on on the one side do you know what might be the cause of this (it runs if you put gas right in the carb itself but it stops running after all that gas is gone) its a 1993 model on a bollens 7680 riding mower
only to clean out the old dry grass. the shields are there to direct the cooling airflow provided by the flywheel, across the heat-sink fins all around the combustion chamber. It's best to keep them in place.
larger diameter crank drive pulley. or smaller diameter transmission input pulley. and anything to increase bottom end torque output of the motor,, but then are risking cam and crank flex issues etc. run really super good zinc phosphorus motor oils and stiffer valve springs and etc. and mill the head or heads or motor block deck or decks down some, and open up valve bowl areas and port polish head exh and int runners/ports. find an old camshaft thats stronger than a cast one for less flex
My gov on my older Murray goes all over won't run smooth cuts in an out then when I shut it off it will leak gas through the muffler whole tank if I fill it ? Help!!!!!!!!!!
I did this same mod on one of my customers riding mower. If you pull the motor off the chasey, retorque the case bolts or locktight them because they will come loose due to extra vibration in about 1 or 2 years. You can imagine how I know this. Plus if you go too high the engine will fight the spring and govener by pulse reving at the high rpm. Definetly a good howto video. I tweek mine all the time, and on my A.P.U. I made that one from scratch. I even know how to modify a govener where you get rid of that spring you were adjusting altogether and you would have the best of both and the worst of both worlds and I would definetly not recommend doing my mod unless it was absolutally nessasary.
13.5HP is actually considered high power. back in the day anything over about 5 or 6HP was considered high performance. manufactureres started being pressured alot to make higher power outputs sacrificing longevity and strength of cams cranks and blocks. a huge tradeoff.. no nnowadays therer are all new sorts of failures of motors and parts than theere ever were back in the lower HP olden days.
Throttle will stick wide open and run until the internal governor gears shatter,then you have to take the motor off and take the bottom housing apart and assessment of further damage
no govern on my ford tractor with a 18hp opposed twin, i rev it up so much one day i destroyed the fornt pully lol but smoked the tires on asphalt i need to weld the rear diff and add a gas petal
Always fun taking a peek at what Fearless is up to...usually up to no good, glad to see this time is no exception! Haha Don't worry about the haters...they need to learn how to be responsible for themselves and hey, you did give a warning!
Isaac MacNeill spray pb blaster or another penetrating oil in the cylinder. Let it free up the rings from the cylinder. If that don't work then the rod is probably broke and jammed into the block.
hw did it get seized? water in cylinder? overheated it? locked it up? or werent running zinc phosphorus motor oil ? lack of maintainance and lots of junk in crankcase wearing downi damaging bearings and cam lobes etc? or?
The assembly of the lawn mower could be done without any problems th-cam.com/users/postUgkxTPN04aT-Qdjr_KS3ql7ng8wnU3wwsCqk also recommend I just puzzled something about the red strange “key”. However, it quickly turned out that this creates a kind of contact bridge between battery packs and lawn mowers. An additional backup as a father of a 1 year old nephew is great!! :-)
I would have done it with or without your video, but the video taught me exactly what to do without blowing up anything! Thank you very much!!
Thank you Todd!! I adjusted my governor to 90 degrees too but I left it there, gives me a little more speed
Love videos like this I'm 46 years old and guys making videos like you do teach me something new everyday.
isn't it strange that a simple bend in a spring or mount can just totally change the performance of these engines.
yea, took me a while to figure out exactly what to bend! haha
in most cases it brings them back to the right speed! springs stretch after years of hot/cold and numerous extensions and vibrations so it makes sense to bend it out after a couple thousand hours to give it the 3,600rpm it needs. We see too many mowers/tractors coming into the shop that are running around 3,000 or even as low as 2,700. Once we bring them back up customers respond saying it "mows like new" and "has the power/speed it was always supposed to have".
9102jack l
@@9102jack io
I did this a couple weeks ago to my 16hp ohv briggs (non-intek) and it screams lol
Hey I got intek at 17.5hp with A 500CC but is not that bad but is pretty fast at 50mph with a 2in pulley with my yard machine 2017 haven't tow up yet
@@nigelplantin6477 I got a 1974 Allis Chalmers 610 my grandfather and me got a Briggs and Stratton engine on it were gonna get the engine started she's a loud engine fire pops out of the exhaust the hitch is massive they can pull alot of Stuff Allis Chalmers are rare
They show how to make this adjustment in the briggs service manual. It's how you adjust the RPM. It's no secret. In fact I think they even make a tool to make it easier to get in there to bend the tang the spring is on instead of using pliers.
Don't try this at home - do it at your neighbors :)
Upskirt
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Great video fearless and big thumbs up for doing it! I, myself will probably never mess with my governor but as many others have commented people are going to do it anyway. I appreciate you showing everyone the "safe" way to do it so they don't kill themselves trying on their own. Anyway, sweet video as always!
If you are worried about scattering a flywheel build a cage around it like the race mower rules talk about. That way maybe it won't slice your legs off when it blows apart. I think I may try to put a 1/4 in plate behind the engine so I have a little protection. Haha, when doin stupid things, remember safety first!!!
I got a crastmanlt1000 I got a 16.5hpon it how to make faster
the way my mower is is that I can stick my hand in the engine while I drive it and push the throttle down farther than it would go with my foot and so then I can go really fast only problem is while I'm racing along I awkwardly have my arm inside my engine lol
Already done it. Bearings in crank broke
Do you have a video on how to make a gas pedal on these B&S’s? I cannot find anything how to do so. I have a 12-13hp but it should be similar. Thanks!
so does the govenor need to be connected to the carb? Ifeel like it does..I put on an after market carb and only have linkage from the gas pedal to the butterfly valve on the carb. ( not to the original choke cable, throttle cable mounting plate) any advise is appreciated!! as are all your vids!!
Actually a good video out of all I watched yours was the most informational one to actually show how it's done the rest just talk and show off...good job man keep em comeing
geez, a flywheel exploding by centrifugal force. thats gotta be extremely messed up and dangerous
Honestly with a flywheel that is in good shape, you won't be able to scatter it by merely bypassing or adjusting the governor. Valve float will limit the top RPM below that level. If you start messing with stiffer valve springs, and other mods that defeat valve float, then you better think shields and billet flywheels and stuff.
A much more important warning is this - Don't ever use a flywheel that has been modified, pryed on, dropped, or otherwise damaged as they can scatter / explode even at normal engine speed.
Yes! I agree 100%. I have yet to have a problem.
I bought a Timorn Tach/Hour Meter with the wire that wraps around the spark plug cord to be able to set my Tractor Mower to the OEM Manual's 1750 RPM Idle. I'd do that with the Carburetor Idle Screw, but if I can find the Full Throttle RPM, I can adjust the Governor Spring tension as necessary. I searched your videos for an air/fuel adjustment procedure, but didn't find one. If you have one or could make one for this same Tractor Mower or one like it, I would greatly appreciate a link to an existing one, if you have one, or a new video. Or would you know the typical Full Throttle RPM for a Briggs & Stratton 31P977-0635-E1 Single Cylinder OHV? Thanks in advance.
Excellent video, you told me not to do it, of course I did it. Just pulled the tab a tiny bit, blew the motor in 5 seconds. Had nothing to loose, the engine was tired and I needed more RPM's. I have a replacement motor. You have a new subscriber, thanks Todd.
would you recommend putting a rpm gauge on your lawn tractor after mess with the governor? if so a rpm gauge would look badass on the murray by the way
Hell na bro, appreciate the tip on the governor. Also great job on explaining the dangers of doing this mod. Anytime you modify any engine in any way that it runs out of factory rated specs. That's is on he/ or she that makes that decision. Keep up the good work.
I have a 21 horse Briggs I cleaned the carb, put it back on?
The way it's suppose to but it's like the rod is too long ?
Governor doesnt move because it's almost all the way to the right? What did I do wrong !
Good video. You showed how to adjust governed speed properly. Bend tab opposite way to reduce speed. Use a digital tach as you suggested to keep RPM in the safe range. Had a flywheel disintegrate and it came right through the engine shroud and flew all over the shop. It was metal fatigue, I started it up after a carb clean. Was making adjustments, no overspeed, and she went. Yes, dangerous, be careful. Thanks for the video’s.
A friends 18.5 hp B&S was running wide open. Checked the governor linkage, etc. Finally found the carb butterfly was not in the carb. It was lodged in the intake manifold. Screws missing and apparently passed through the engine. First time we had seen this.
I hooked the throttle cable right up to the governor bar and have not had any problems yet, and it pulls small cars around the yard just fine.
sometimes its better to just show people so they really know what can happen rather then not saying or showing them anything at all, I found it useful and appreciate the right knowledge that came with the demonstration. thumbs up from me.
Will the engine lubrication be sufficient at higher RPM?. conversely,.I have heard that low RPMs don't allow full lubrication by splashing oil.....
Information, including warnings always appreciated!
My 14.5 seems to be running to slow, so after confirming with a digital tach, this may help correct the issue.
building a beast of a tractor now with the same motor going to build a frame and lift it up running 38.5 tires what rear axel would you suggest?
I work at a small engine shop and this engine and the higher and lower HP version with this head blow head gaskets.right in the middle of the push rods from the piston cylinder blows right thru over time. all 3 head gaskets for the 3 different hp same head all do the same. the new replacement head has a lil more meat on it but no info if it fixes it or not entirely.
i did this to my drag racing mower and it runs better than it ever did. Thanks and great video. I turned it up slightly and it does what it should.
Hey fearless front do u work on other people mower just wounder. like outing the fearless front style on them
What should the idle be at lowest rpm? Seems like mine doesn't get low enough. Im running at around 3600 on high and around 2100 at low
Thanks for the video about a year ago i was playing around with a push mower and i found the govner and turn it up and i thought it was going to take flight lol keep it up fearless.
thanks! lol, glad you survived!
I also have the same murray you do. Not sure of the year but my buddy bruce you've had contact with said it's the same mower. Was just wondering if lifting the motor to the larger pulley would work instead of cutting and welding. PLEASE let me know. Thanks fearless! You're a boss!
The most dangerous thing about governor modification is free spinning the engine in neutral. If the engine is under load then the internals will be biased and eliminate most irregularities like slop, and damaging harmonic resonations. Problem with tractors is their low gearing which allows their engine to spool up with very little load. People don’t realize how much power/torque larger displacement engines really make. Over sizing your pulleys can be a safer alternative for the engine.
YES, good tips!
Also I wanna know if u can weld the diff on the mower? Of so can u make one video of it
My Kohler 16 hp on my lawn tractor
Has 2 holes on the governor am and I moved the spring to the other position and revs more but not too much
Good to know! never messed with the larger kohlers before. Thanks for the info
Hey fearless, i was just wondering how you extended the front spindles on you murray?
Dodge08effie j
Yes this adjustment is OK because you use a tach, I use the tiny tach its digital. Tach monitoring is essential and I recommend reading the engines power curve and setting it to that rpm. where the engine puts out the most power. Many governor are set wrong as the spring gets old or sits in the hole wrong angle as you show. I have used a 13hp. engine on a hovercraft and needed a bit more rpm. to get the prop spinning at an optimum rpm. I went to about 3800 on an engine that had the power curve rpm at 3400.
I need to fix this on my old craftsman. I want it back to the way it was I dint want to adjust the rpm. Can you please take a better photo of how the linkages are set up behind the plate. I understand the difficulty but it would make a world of difference.
Even though this is not reccomended, I'm glad you did this video. Usually there's no stopping people who want to do this, at least now they can see what to do and probably how to do it without killing themselves.
That was my thought too... I don't think it's a great idea to "experiment" with governor linkages. I figured this would take some of the guess work out of it
I just did an engine swap and got a 12.5 I/C....it was running great and I was doing a test run on a clutch adjustment and I let the clutch go and it did a wheelie and then started running absolutely wide open,any idea what may have happened?
implanning on making a offroad mower with a friend from school, i was wondering what size pulleys are the best and size rims and tires are the best? thanks
TOXIC GAMING SQUAD send me your messenger and ill send u a good pic
TOXIC GAMING SQUAD of pulley rations
Can you tell me why my briggs n stratton mower keeps popping and banging runs good at idle carbs been cleaned brand new plug
Thanks
What's the radiator that's hanging up on the wall from? Air conditioner or trans cooler?
Hey man, just started my first mower. I got a Huskee Limited edition 20HP briggs and straton amd the keyway on the shaft is different than most. Instead of the keyway being cur into the pulley there is a groove cut into the shaft. If you would like I can make a video showing what it looks like
What do you recommend? Hooking the gas pedal up to the governor, or to the throttle and do this mod with a separate choke?
are there other ways other than toggling the governor or pulley swaps that can increase speed on a mower?
I agree with StarPuss. If you want to go more than 4000 rpm, get a billet aluminum flywheel and do the proper mods: 4200 rpm and up: valve train (depends on maximum rpm) 5000 rpm and up: billet aluminum connecting rod.
Our neighbor had the governor completely broken inside (not intentionally) but that thing would fly! No pulley / transmission mods either. Good video.
Hey what size pulley do you have on your Murray back and front
Hi,
Im thirteen years old and i have a mower with a ohv Briggs and Stratton 18hp. I already pulley swapped, and rewired all the safety features. I usually pull around sleds with kids who are around 100-200 and we go off hills and jumps, I did what you showed in the video, i was wondering if i could run the engine for like 2 hours and be pulling weight at full throttle or would that be to much for the stock engine? Sooner the better so pls respond fast. Thank you ahead of time.
keep it under 4k RPm and make sure you run zinc phosphorus small engine motor oils only. anbd dont weight overload the motor it can flex the crank and cam and cause mechanical faiures. especially camshaft flex and pushrod issues.
What changes happen when you actually reposition the governor lever on the shaft that goes into the engine? Thanks
I set up an new engine on my mower and it is running at about 4800 rpms, I need to slow it down, so this information I hope will help me.I'm going to lengthen the spring.
I have a 12 hp Briggs that only runs on chock is there a video that shows the govenor and spring .I think mine is missing?
+Dave Wickham Carb needs too be rebuilt or a bad air leak at the intake ~~~
I have my throttle cable right around my governor, motor has lasted a very long time and rarely burns oil but I have enough power to go through things. but it's probably horrible for the engine.
Im going to attempt this on my craftsman gt18 tractor. The throtte only goes halfway cuz the cable is half broke where the cablr meets the lever
Hey fearless how did you put your push bumper on your murry love to see a video. Thanks man.
Thanks for the video! my tractor when i full throttle the carb it dies right as it hits high RMPs like the governor is coming on too quickly, I cleaned the carb and checked everything with no change, adjusting the governor may fix this issue. thanks!
How did you make the rims fit??? Thats coooooool!
thank you Todd. everyone keep talking about t but won't show it.
Hey, how's the golf cart going... I would love to see a video soon.
I have a rot pedal bypass on my 16.5 BRANDNEW motor another words it runs on normal governed but the foot pedal bypasses it no tools required to by pass while riding
My mower now runs at a higher rpm than my z400. Lmao
Thanks for the tip on a opposed twin there is a built in gov adjuster on the throttle arm i got mine running at 4850rpm dont worry its not a stock motor and i have a tach just so i can make sure it no over rev to 5500rpm.
I did this but just bent it straight up and down and then later on I figured I didn't want the risk of blowing up my engine so I bent it back down and now for some reason the governor won't move when I move the throttle back and fourth. Any suggestions on what I did wrong?
hit it with something
not hating, just some suggestions and notes.
1. before doing ANY work adjusting the governor, it is best to get the engine in the proper configuration. If you skip these steps in setup then any adjustments you make in the governor will be masking and potentially causing more problems that you are trying to solve/
a. install the damned exhaust/muffler. Yes, that small amount of back pressure is necessary as these engines are designed for backpressure from exhaust. this is important for proper tuning.
b. make sure your timing, coil and sparkplug are working correctly.
c. setting the proper valve clearance and even cleaning the head cylinder and valve lapping is important...all of these things will give you best performance and help make the engine work more efficiently and it will last much longer.
d. change the oil
e. clean off the engine head cylinder...especially the aluminum cooling fins.
f. change the oil. and filter
g. make sure the fuel filter and fuel pump are not blocked and are working correctly.
h. clean the carb with attention to the air needle valve and the main jet with emulsion tube holes cleared and cleaned.
i. make sure and test to make sure you don't have any air leaks in the air intake manifold. change gaskets if you do and solve that. A lean condition engine is going to prematurely fail over time.
j. clean the air filter..oil it is that is what is required...some require a slight oil..some do not.
k. make sure your gas is not contaminated and flows freely from tank outlet into fuel line. make sure there is no water.
l. Check and make sure your fuel cap vent is working...loosen it and if engine performance improves, then you know the vent is not working...fix that.
2. now check your engine performance. In almost every single situation if you have done all of the above preventative maintenance things above, this is going to give you the performance increases. And this means you don't mess with the governor! it's just that simple.
3. there are only four reasons to mess with the governor:
a. you messed with it and now you need to get it back correctly. Look for other videos on how to PROPERLY adjust the governor. It's different from B&S compared to kohler compared to kawasaki. Refer to the service manual for specifics.
b. your governor is broken or missing a spring. If the governor does not work, then it's probably broken internally. prepare to learn how to do complicated and time consuming repairs to your mower or just take it to a small engine shop. If the spring is missing, find the part and replace it.
c. you are building a racing mower or racing engine and you just don't care that it will blow up and not last very long. You just want to go fast for maybe 50 hours before the engine blows up. Good luck and be safe.
d. you don't know what you are doing and you found a video that sounded interesting and so without thinking you decide you want extra power from your lawn mower that was never designed to produce that kind of power. Good luck...may the safety gods looks favorably on your condition
God Bless America
Can you make a video of the golf cart ?? What you will be doing to it
my question is these engines are made to make most of their power at lower rpm,s so if revving it up more wouldn't you would be loosing power?
Not 100% sure, but I think they make more torque at lower rpm's. and better HP in the upper end. But this doesn't build horsepower, it just increases RPMs. With a pulley swap, it can result in more top speed
I did a very minor adjustment becaus i have a 11 hp brigs and wanted a little more power very small bend and mine is still kinda down thx for the informative video
did i understand this right the regular RPM is 3600? at work we usually set it to 2400- 2800 RPM
yes, that is usually the max factory spec on most small engines.
i.bought a murray and i put the electric
start like how u did it works great for the water holes an i was at a frieands muden on his hill an slipedfown an hit a tree i was eorking on the exost the night prier so i had no hood an it mesed up the govner what i put a new spring on an ran at 3800 rm so i levt it for the maxexed but the tree messed it up i seen your video that peace bent way down the only way it would run
was manuly pull it but i look at the peace a after this video bent it strate with the new spting it's back being the king
its got a 18 hourse ovh with new compresed exost what added a hourse but with the 19 runing it over heats in a hour how can i fix that but the stock oil filter i got the exost from do u think that would work i am tring to invoed that i an only 14 i work but 200 doller parts are alot of hours
It is really bugging me, thinking how many tractors you have in your garage?
And if possible do a video on how many please.
Thanks Jack
He has done a video on his tractors. I cant remember which one and might have to do some lookin' but he has done a video on his main tractors
i have a question
my cousin has a briggs & stratton v twin motor and it will only fire on one side
he had the whole thing apart and it still won't fire on on the one side
do you know what might be the cause of this (it runs if you put gas right in the carb itself but it stops running after all that gas is gone)
its a 1993 model on a bollens 7680 riding mower
william endler Something wrong with the magneto/coil.
okay il let him know when i see him
Well first test to see if that cylinder is firing and it has spark.
If you try and start it and the spark plug is wet with gas then you'll know for sure that the coil is bad.
the side thats not firing is dry and we had it all apart and still cant figure it out
Hi,
Wondering wath is the shaft size of this engin?
Tanks!
Hey cool vid I was wondering if it's ok to remove all of the heat shields from the front of the moter
only to clean out the old dry grass. the shields are there to direct the cooling airflow provided by the flywheel, across the heat-sink fins all around the combustion chamber. It's best to keep them in place.
I wonder what a tang is!.? Never hear of it wish it was pointed out here
My side valve Briggs had a different setup to that where it is you have a governor or you don't not really much middle ground
how would you make it go faster and have more power cause I got a 19 hp turbo cool craftsman and idk how to make it faster
Do a pulley swap. That will make it faster
larger diameter crank drive pulley. or smaller diameter transmission input pulley. and anything to increase bottom end torque output of the motor,, but then are risking cam and crank flex issues etc. run really super good zinc phosphorus motor oils and stiffer valve springs and etc. and mill the head or heads or motor block deck or decks down some, and open up valve bowl areas and port polish head exh and int runners/ports. find an old camshaft thats stronger than a cast one for less flex
My gov on my older Murray goes all over won't run smooth cuts in an out then when I shut it off it will leak gas through the muffler whole tank if I fill it ? Help!!!!!!!!!!
You need a carb job. Badly.
And a fuel shut off valve on your fuel line.
I like that your honest about what the outcome could be you have a thumbs up from me love what you do keep up the good work
Can't u also take off one side of the crank case and remove the plastic governor gear like u can in predator engines
FlickTricksOffical Actually no, it functions as the motor's splash lube system.
I did this same mod on one of my customers riding mower. If you pull the motor off the chasey, retorque the case bolts or locktight them because they will come loose due to extra vibration in about 1 or 2 years. You can imagine how I know this.
Plus if you go too high the engine will fight the spring and govener by pulse reving at the high rpm.
Definetly a good howto video. I tweek mine all the time, and on my A.P.U. I made that one from scratch. I even know how to modify a govener where you get rid of that spring you were adjusting altogether and you would have the best of both and the worst of both worlds and I would definetly not recommend doing my mod unless it was absolutally nessasary.
Hey I would like to know how to make a gas peddle could you make a vid on that?
can you do it also with a push mower ?
Hey fearless do u think a 13.5 hp Briggs ohv is a good motor to mud with or is it too low in hp
13.5HP is actually considered high power. back in the day anything over about 5 or 6HP was considered high performance. manufactureres started being pressured alot to make higher power outputs sacrificing longevity and strength of cams cranks and blocks. a huge tradeoff.. no nnowadays therer are all new sorts of failures of motors and parts than theere ever were back in the lower HP olden days.
Throttle will stick wide open and run until the internal governor gears shatter,then you have to take the motor off and take the bottom housing apart and assessment of further damage
YES, happens with me, LOL.
no govern on my ford tractor with a 18hp opposed twin, i rev it up so much one day i destroyed the fornt pully lol but smoked the tires on asphalt i need to weld the rear diff and add a gas petal
Always fun taking a peek at what Fearless is up to...usually up to no good, glad to see this time is no exception! Haha Don't worry about the haters...they need to learn how to be responsible for themselves and hey, you did give a warning!
Thanks buddy! I'm just covering my ass... I don't want a bunch of haters saying I didn't give a fair warning!
This is very helpful for my racing mower, I want to see how to remove the governor on a V-Twin
Might not be a good idea. If you must, crank it up, but you probably shouldn't remove it entirely, in case you want to undo something
DO NOT DO IT !!! OMG, mine last about 30 seconds and it BLEW !!! LMFAO
You should post a video of you grooming the track today if possible
I have the exact same Briggs and Stratton 14.5 ho engine but it's seized. What do I do? Do I need a new engine?
Isaac MacNeill spray pb blaster or another penetrating oil in the cylinder. Let it free up the rings from the cylinder. If that don't work then the rod is probably broke and jammed into the block.
hw did it get seized? water in cylinder? overheated it? locked it up? or werent running zinc phosphorus motor oil ? lack of maintainance and lots of junk in crankcase wearing downi damaging bearings and cam lobes etc? or?
after this mod i dont push my 143cc b&s i lean forward while pulling the lever as i run behind my push mower now good nwork out sore back doe
I did a simler thing but I just made it to where it was flat and it's been like that for years never had proplum with it
what happens if you do it the opposite way on the governor
You become a god...
Jesse Fitzpatrick the throttle goes down
Do you attach a gas pedal to the throttle?
Don't know why this was in my recommended videos but Briggs use to make a tool and probably still do to adjust the SPRING not the tang.
I have a briggs 8hp who revs upp and down constantly. Whats wrong then??
3 Things that can happens. Dirty Carb or Spring Broken or Broken Governor Inside
how did you put car tires on your mower