The Amp crimper for only the blue terminals also left two bumps on the crimp. Since you didn't mention that perhaps you don't know what the bumps are for. That is to indicate that the correct die was used. 1 bump for red, 2 bumps for blue, 3 bumps for yellow.
The only thing that has changed in 60+ years with the AMP crimpers, that I'am aware of @16:20 is they now have insuluated handles,thats it!!!, they are that good, plus they are FAA and Mil-Spec certified. I have all the crimpers for insulated and non-insulated terminals including pin terminals that My Father used back in the 50's through the 70's while He was working at Lockheed. The "AMP" quality is a force to be reckoned with!!!.😏👍 Great video, very informative!🇺🇸✌
9:40 Amphenol Corporation and AMP (Aircraft and Marine Products, now TE Connectivity) are two unrelated companies. (Both have Wikipedia pages, for further info.) Nice review of the practical side of these various tools -- good job.
Thanks for the video! I have a project where I need to do some crimping and figured I may as well invest in a good crimper. This sort of overview was exactly what I was looking for!
Excellent demonstration!! You get right to the point and are very informative. I've often wondered why there are so many different styles of crimp tools for the same terminals and which are most effective, and you did a great job of detailing the differences. I look forward to more of your videos, Thank you.
I appreciate all the videos on this channel that focus on crimping. I believe it's the case that nowhere do you suggest which brands of crimps (insulated and not) stand out. Now that this video inspired the purchase of an AMP crimper, I don't want to be feeding it the el-cheapo crimps available at Harbor Freight. Something tells me they're junk. Furthermore, HF seems to sell a variety pack, rather than give the buyer the ability to select particular styles and gauges. Thanks in advance for your sage advice.
I stopped using insulated connectors, non insulated connectors provide superior crimping strength and with marine heat shrink a superior weatherproof insulation.
The main problem I find with the ratchet crimpers is that the crimps themselves seem to vary enough in size so that they slip off. In other words the crimps tend to not match the dies. Now here I must say that I buy my crimps from different sources.Living on the edge of the world we don't have a lot of choices as to where to buy them. I imagine the real problem is that the crimps themselves vary a lot in size.I Have two expensive ratchet crimpers that I have stopped using because of this problem.I find myself using a pair of Kliens that are similar to the T&B crimpers that you show.With these I can control the tightness of the crimp by varying the pressure by controlling it with how hard I squeeze the crimper. At one point I had a conversation with a guy who was involved with crimping to a military standard and he told me to be sure to always make sure the crimps matched the crimper or else I would have the troubles I turned out having with the crimps not fitting.I did a lot of experimenting with various dies but none of them matched my crimps.So at this point I have two expensive ratchet crimpers and a number of dies that I can't use.So if anyone has any suggestions as to where to buy crimps that would fit the crimpers I have I would welcome their input.
What would you recommend for crimping stainless steel barrel sleeves? I think they are about 7/32 OD and are MUCH harder to crimp than the standard barrel sleeves. I use these for connecting kiln elements to the relay wires. Thanks for the video
Ratcheting crimpers would be pretty good in this situation because the ratcheting action and the multiple pivot Points gives them compound leverage like bolt cutters
Ratcheting crimpers are awesome I like them so much because I spent years just using the standard sheet metal style until I actually heard somebody using a pair and ask what they were
Catus Maximus I went from a heavier version of the sheet metal ones (replacing scotch locks 😠) to heavier plier type with silicone di-electric grease and now the ratcheting crimpers . Each step a big improvement
The Thomas & Betts WT-111 tool you show was actually designed for uninsulated terminals and splices, not so much insulated terminals except for butt splices. The WT-145A should be used for insulated terminals, and it would be an improvement to your demonstration of tools, as it is a much higher grade of crimper than those shown in your video.
I have found though experience that using the crimper designed for uninsulated terminals on insulated terminals works better. When using a crimper for insulated terminals the connector can be pulled off of the wire after crimp but when using the crimper for un-insulated terminals on the insulated terminals the wire breaks before the terminal comes off. When using high quality terminals like 3M the jaw will not break through the insulation
I'm sorry about that Harbor Freight has a knock off that's a direct copy of the design that is very good it's just Harbor Freights quality controls not so great but you'll recognize them there about $20
Jack Harrison Their quality is among the worst tools, I wouldn’t buy those even if I was on a serious budget. It’s worth your money to save and buy quality built, reliable tools. Even if it’s a little more.
Unless you solder afterwards, the connections any of these crimpers make are laughable. And soldering anyway, there is hardly any difference between a $200 crimper and ordinary pliers from your grandpa.
Pity you do not know what you are talking about because you are misinforming people who want to make a reliable crimp. I have been paid to certify crimping to MIL-STDs and your ideas are completely wrong like your idea of the cost of a professional crimper at $200 try $1500 or more.
@@tryagain.k1821 Pulling rank, are we? Why don't you tell us how it's done, instead of throwing mud. Be constructive like everyone else here, please. I'm not specialized in crimping, but In my humble experience as an overal technician, mechanic, and building numerous control cabinets, my conclusion is adding solder increases conductivity and reliability. Heat cycles and vibration can reek havoc, and sometimes I can just pull the wires out without any effort. Intermittent connections are also hard to trace, unless they burn out. So why not add a drop of solder to seal the deal when the crimpers at hand are sub par? In automotive or audio equipment it's often just a few connectors, so it's no trouble at all. Why take the risk? Misinformation LOL. Who do you work for? Politico? Try again, OK.
The Amp crimper for only the blue terminals also left two bumps on the crimp. Since you didn't mention that perhaps you don't know what the bumps are for. That is to indicate that the correct die was used. 1 bump for red, 2 bumps for blue, 3 bumps for yellow.
The only thing that has changed in 60+ years with the AMP crimpers, that I'am aware of @16:20 is they now have insuluated handles,thats it!!!, they are that good, plus they are FAA and Mil-Spec certified. I have all the crimpers for insulated and non-insulated terminals including pin terminals that My Father used back in the 50's through the 70's while He was working at Lockheed. The "AMP" quality is a force to be reckoned with!!!.😏👍
Great video, very informative!🇺🇸✌
9:40 Amphenol Corporation and AMP (Aircraft and Marine Products, now TE Connectivity) are two unrelated companies. (Both have Wikipedia pages, for further info.) Nice review of the practical side of these various tools -- good job.
Thanks for the video! I have a project where I need to do some crimping and figured I may as well invest in a good crimper. This sort of overview was exactly what I was looking for!
Excellent demonstration!! You get right to the point and are very informative. I've often wondered why there are so many different styles of crimp tools for the same terminals and which are most effective, and you did a great job of detailing the differences. I look forward to more of your videos, Thank you.
Bro ive been looking up a few tool comparison videos and u come up every time. Thx for covering these bases so well! Uv helped me a lot!
good VDO. today please make crimping again i love crimp review on your channel
Cool video! Destructive pull tests on different crimps would be very interesting as well.
I've done a review with extensive pull tests on my channel 👍🏾
I appreciate all the videos on this channel that focus on crimping. I believe it's the case that nowhere do you suggest which brands of crimps (insulated and not) stand out. Now that this video inspired the purchase of an AMP crimper, I don't want to be feeding it the el-cheapo crimps available at Harbor Freight. Something tells me they're junk. Furthermore, HF seems to sell a variety pack, rather than give the buyer the ability to select particular styles and gauges. Thanks in advance for your sage advice.
I stopped using insulated connectors, non insulated connectors provide superior crimping strength and with marine heat shrink a superior weatherproof insulation.
Great explanation! Thanks
Thanks for the video. Now I know why I never got a good crimp with the cheap crimpers you showed. Need to step up my game!
If you work with wire terminals on a regular basis than they are real Handy
The main problem I find with the ratchet crimpers is that the crimps themselves seem
to vary enough in size so that they slip off. In other words the crimps tend to not match
the dies. Now here I must say that I buy my crimps from different sources.Living
on the edge of the world we don't have a lot of choices as to where to buy them.
I imagine the real problem is that the crimps themselves vary a lot in size.I Have two
expensive ratchet crimpers that I have stopped using because of this problem.I find
myself using a pair of Kliens that are similar to the T&B crimpers that you show.With
these I can control the tightness of the crimp by varying the pressure by controlling
it with how hard I squeeze the crimper. At one point I had a conversation with a guy
who was involved with crimping to a military standard and he told me to be sure to
always make sure the crimps matched the crimper or else I would have the troubles
I turned out having with the crimps not fitting.I did a lot of experimenting with various
dies but none of them matched my crimps.So at this point I have two expensive
ratchet crimpers and a number of dies that I can't use.So if anyone has any
suggestions as to where to buy crimps that would fit the crimpers I have I would welcome their input.
Certified crimps are expensive and do not come from China,
Very informative, thanks!
What would you recommend for crimping stainless steel barrel sleeves? I think they are about 7/32 OD and are MUCH harder to crimp than the standard barrel sleeves. I use these for connecting kiln elements to the relay wires. Thanks for the video
Ratcheting crimpers would be pretty good in this situation because the ratcheting action and the multiple pivot Points gives them compound leverage like bolt cutters
I thought the ones with the spike were for non insulated connectors.. and the oval ones where for insulated
very good clip so thanks
Thank you too
I have 2 pair of ratcheting crimpers one straight and 1 with an angled head to get into tight places, like heavy truck tail lights.
Ratcheting crimpers are awesome I like them so much because I spent years just using the standard sheet metal style until I actually heard somebody using a pair and ask what they were
Catus Maximus
I went from a heavier version of the sheet metal ones (replacing scotch locks 😠) to heavier plier type with silicone di-electric grease and now the ratcheting crimpers . Each step a big improvement
What brand and model are the crimpers with blue grips on bottom left?
I don't think I've ever used a crimper and said that was a great experience and I've used a lot of crimpers.
These ratcheting ones really are a great experience perfect reliable crimps every time
I have a few crimpers that make such beautiful crimps, I have to look at the crimps in awe and wonder after I am done.
One of my friends has a set of Doyle crimpers that look identical to klein tool crimpers.
The Thomas & Betts WT-111 tool you show was actually designed for uninsulated terminals and splices, not so much insulated terminals except for butt splices. The WT-145A should be used for insulated terminals, and it would be an improvement to your demonstration of tools, as it is a much higher grade of crimper than those shown in your video.
I have found though experience that using the crimper designed for uninsulated terminals on insulated terminals works better. When using a crimper for insulated terminals the connector can be pulled off of the wire after crimp but when using the crimper for un-insulated terminals on the insulated terminals the wire breaks before the terminal comes off. When using high quality terminals like 3M the jaw will not break through the insulation
How much?
Those T&B crimpers are for non insulated terminals.
Thank you for clarifying that
Does anybody know where to find Quality Fork Terminals? ..( not cheap ones )
i keep finding low quality ones and looking for better. Let me know! :)
I believe the first amp crimper is missing some parts.
Great video: informative and useful.
i like the amp crimps
You kinda confused me about the harbor freight ratcheting crimper. Are they the best you've seen in a store or no?
I'm sorry about that Harbor Freight has a knock off that's a direct copy of the design that is very good it's just Harbor Freights quality controls not so great but you'll recognize them there about $20
Jack Harrison Their quality is among the worst tools, I wouldn’t buy those even if I was on a serious budget. It’s worth your money to save and buy quality built, reliable tools. Even if it’s a little more.
Jack Harrison I recommend Klein, Greenlee, Knipex, Wiha, Wera. Anything from those brands is worth it.
What model number is those quest crimpers?
TRF-3051
Gardner, not Garber.
THANKS
FIRST
Great content. But, PLEASE, wear gloves!! 🤢
Reason being?
@@rachavya 🤣
Unless you solder afterwards, the connections any of these crimpers make are laughable.
And soldering anyway, there is hardly any difference between a $200 crimper and ordinary pliers from your grandpa.
Soldering does improve a poorly made crimp. You could always just solder on the terminal, unless your a marine electrician.
@@joehead1294 Please enlighten me. Does it have to do with salty air & corrosion?
@@STARDRIVE ABYC regulations. Mechanical connection and then soldered otherwise you might fail an inspection.
Pity you do not know what you are talking about because you are misinforming people who want to make a reliable crimp.
I have been paid to certify crimping to MIL-STDs and your ideas are completely wrong like your idea of the cost of a professional crimper at $200 try $1500 or more.
@@tryagain.k1821 Pulling rank, are we? Why don't you tell us how it's done, instead of throwing mud. Be constructive like everyone else here, please.
I'm not specialized in crimping, but In my humble experience as an overal technician, mechanic, and building numerous control cabinets, my conclusion is adding solder increases conductivity and reliability.
Heat cycles and vibration can reek havoc, and sometimes I can just pull the wires out without any effort. Intermittent connections are also hard to trace, unless they burn out. So why not add a drop of solder to seal the deal when the crimpers at hand are sub par?
In automotive or audio equipment it's often just a few connectors, so it's no trouble at all. Why take the risk?
Misinformation LOL. Who do you work for? Politico?
Try again, OK.