Helpful tip. Instead of dismantling the whole front and seal, just disconnect the water lines, tip machine onto its side, then remove the shock absorbers from the access whole in the bottom. Or take the access panel off the back and reach in through the rear. Keep it simple and no need for expensive tools.
My LG washer was shaking violently during the spin cycle and these instructions helped me determine how to disassemble it and find out that the concrete weight attached to the front had fallen off. I was able to add washers to the concrete way and reattach it and reassemble it using these instructions.
@@lazyboyz it was pretty easy, especially once the video above shows you how to remove the screws in the right places. The hardest part is moving the washer away from the wall. I did go to Amazon and pick up the tool to remove the spring wire that holds the rubber gasket. After that, it is very straightforward. No tutorial is needed once you have the outer cover removed since it is straightforward at that point .The washers may not even be necessary to help secure the concrete weights. You might just need to tighten the screws and put a little epoxy in the threads so it doesn't happen again. On my washer the concrete weight fell off and damaged the pump hose so I did have to buy one of those from Sears direct. In theory, I could have used any hose but I wanted to make sure it was the right durometer because it is a flexing moving part.
I have an LG front loader, but my drum has three shock absorbers: two on either side of the drum, and a third at the rear. What I found possible is that you can access the shock absorbers by removing the washer's back access panel. It's a little tricky if you access from the rear. But if you use the 1/2 deep socket on the tab of the locking pin (facing you towards the rear panel, and then use a small-sized vice-grip pliers to pull the head side of the locking pin away from you. It will work, and you can avoid having to remove the front panels assembly from the dryer. Also, there is no reason not to install the new locking pins with the tab side facing the dryer front, and the head side facing the dryer's rear access panel. This will make it easier, the next time, to pull those pins.
Tips- Since most people don't have grease lying around Vaseline should work just as good. Knipex 3891200 was a great tool for removing the bushing pins. I used a pretty big channel locks pliers about 5" to get the bushing pins back in where I couldn't get a stick to hammer them in. 1/2 deep sock was great for removal. Also, people said the new shocks hole was too small so they removed the bushing...but you can see your old shocks had the same bushing I just removed the white plastic bushing and cut where they are meant to break so they would spread and they work just like the factory ones. To my surprise my shocks were still good after 10 years but replaced them anyway because they were starting to rust. I also removed the inner boot spring, big mistake, there was nothing to clean, 383EER4001A Washer Spring Expansion Tool only works well for the outside ring...I ended up having to remove the spring to get the seal back on and a pliers to pull the spring back on ...wasn't easy by myself.
Hint: before you try the FRONT absorber(s), replace the rear first. Deep socket did not work for me; short 13mm was perfect. In my case, I could access the two in front FROM the rear and did not need to remove the whole front panel and door assembly. Also, you may be able to simply regrease instead of replace. Remove the old ones and inspect. Try just applying brand new grease before replacing. You may save yourself some $$$. Unless there is heavy rust, just apply some marine grease and reassemble.
You're welcome! We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review We hope that you have a great day!
You're welcome! We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review We hope that you have a great day!
Good instructions. But I did not have a socket to depress the tabs on the locking pins of the old shock absorber. So I slipped the new one over the end of the locking pin, as I figured this had the same diameter.
I replaced the the dampers and the damn thing still shakes like a LA earthquake! What else can be the issue? I sat on it and that helped. Can't sit on there forever.
So what’s the point of having an access hole underneath if I gotta tear the front apart to get access??? Unreal LG guess it’s so water can learn ruin floor…
Helpful tip. Instead of dismantling the whole front and seal, just disconnect the water lines, tip machine onto its side, then remove the shock absorbers from the access whole in the bottom. Or take the access panel off the back and reach in through the rear. Keep it simple and no need for expensive tools.
You answered my question that I posted on the video on your channel! Thanks.
The tool to remove the spring off the seal is only $10
Surely tipping the machine on it's side raises the possibility of something else getting broken.
My LG washer was shaking violently during the spin cycle and these instructions helped me determine how to disassemble it and find out that the concrete weight attached to the front had fallen off. I was able to add washers to the concrete way and reattach it and reassemble it using these instructions.
Same problem here! I will also replace the shocks in case they were bad causing the weight to break off...
It was that easy?
@@lazyboyz it was pretty easy, especially once the video above shows you how to remove the screws in the right places. The hardest part is moving the washer away from the wall. I did go to Amazon and pick up the tool to remove the spring wire that holds the rubber gasket. After that, it is very straightforward. No tutorial is needed once you have the outer cover removed since it is straightforward at that point .The washers may not even be necessary to help secure the concrete weights. You might just need to tighten the screws and put a little epoxy in the threads so it doesn't happen again. On my washer the concrete weight fell off and damaged the pump hose so I did have to buy one of those from Sears direct. In theory, I could have used any hose but I wanted to make sure it was the right durometer because it is a flexing moving part.
I have an LG front loader, but my drum has three shock absorbers: two on either side of the drum, and a third at the rear. What I found possible is that you can access the shock absorbers by removing the washer's back access panel. It's a little tricky if you access from the rear. But if you use the 1/2 deep socket on the tab of the locking pin (facing you towards the rear panel, and then use a small-sized vice-grip pliers to pull the head side of the locking pin away from you. It will work, and you can avoid having to remove the front panels assembly from the dryer. Also, there is no reason not to install the new locking pins with the tab side facing the dryer front, and the head side facing the dryer's rear access panel. This will make it easier, the next time, to pull those pins.
Tips- Since most people don't have grease lying around Vaseline should work just as good. Knipex 3891200 was a great tool for removing the bushing pins. I used a pretty big channel locks pliers about 5" to get the bushing pins back in where I couldn't get a stick to hammer them in. 1/2 deep sock was great for removal. Also, people said the new shocks hole was too small so they removed the bushing...but you can see your old shocks had the same bushing I just removed the white plastic bushing and cut where they are meant to break so they would spread and they work just like the factory ones. To my surprise my shocks were still good after 10 years but replaced them anyway because they were starting to rust. I also removed the inner boot spring, big mistake, there was nothing to clean, 383EER4001A Washer Spring Expansion Tool only works well for the outside ring...I ended up having to remove the spring to get the seal back on and a pliers to pull the spring back on ...wasn't easy by myself.
Hint: before you try the FRONT absorber(s), replace the rear first. Deep socket did not work for me; short 13mm was perfect. In my case, I could access the two in front FROM the rear and did not need to remove the whole front panel and door assembly. Also, you may be able to simply regrease instead of replace. Remove the old ones and inspect. Try just applying brand new grease before replacing. You may save yourself some $$$. Unless there is heavy rust, just apply some marine grease and reassemble.
Very good video and super clear instructions
You're welcome!
We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review
We hope that you have a great day!
Very informative video - thank you.
You're welcome!
We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review
We hope that you have a great day!
Good instructions. But I did not have a socket to depress the tabs on the locking pins of the old shock absorber. So I slipped the new one over the end of the locking pin, as I figured this had the same diameter.
What do you use if you don't have the spring removal tool?
Tip I've seen was to use a small flat wrench (eg 7mm) as a rigid bar and use zip ties pull the spring open
Needle nose pliers.
I replaced the the dampers and the damn thing still shakes like a LA earthquake! What else can be the issue? I sat on it and that helped. Can't sit on there forever.
Bad drum bearings.
Every video says to use a deep socket, but qith my lg washer you cannot fit the socket into the area needed foe the 2 side shocks, only the back one.
I used 12mm ring spanner. Had enough room to use hex driver to push pin out. Mine was a slightly earlier model and had 3 dampers in L-R axis
I was able to use a deep 12 mm socket by first pushing the plastic pins by hand as far as I could go one direction.
@@mcclmark I eventually got it, doing what you did, but not with ease like the ones in the videos I've seen as my LG washer had tighter space. Cheers!
Just pinch the nylon tabs in push out.
So what’s the point of having an access hole underneath if I gotta tear the front apart to get access??? Unreal LG guess it’s so water can learn ruin floor…
maybe this model has no access panels/bottom...sounds typical to cutoff DIY movement