Why Didn't The Factory Finish This drill? Machining the T-Slots
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- This week Cora and myself finish what the factory didn't on this vintage drill press. I have wanted a way to bolt parts down to the table on this drill every since I got this drill press. Consider supporting Steve Summers TH-cam channel
Peanut Coffee Mugs/New design Tee shirts
teespring.com/...
New design/Tee spring
steve-summers-...
Amazon Wish List
www.amazon.com...
Huge thanks to all my supporters who make all this possible, If you would like to support the channel please consider joining my patreon page. If you would like to make a onetime shop donation or monthly follow the link below to my PayPal
www.paypal.com...
Join my Patreon page.
/ stevesummers
Love how you've taken tools with issues, solved the issues, fixed the problems AND improved them. I love how a machine shop EVOLVES.
(Evolves.) Exactly, almost like it's organic metal.
Looks good from my house.i suggest you get some anchor lube.
Very nice work, I bought a machine where the 'T' slot was also not finished. As we had no mill at the time a local machinist did the job for the price of keeping 2 'T' slot carbide cutters, which he didn't have.
Nice machine work aside, the spots featuring Cora always bring a smile to my face! What a lucky rescue for the pup and you!
She has turned out to be a fantastic pup. She is smart and pretty well behaved . Why anyone would have dropped her has me puzzled.
@@SteveSummers Probably relates to the message on the hoodie you were wearing in this video...
@@SteveSummers Totally agree. The previous owner is either heart broken or doesn’t deserve animals. It’s obvious she loves you!
Steve Summers, reducing entropy one used shop machine at a time. This was such a nice machine shop tutorial, 'cept for the dangling hoodie strings...
Nice! Hey Steve, today in a couple of hours,
We are going to pick up our new Cora at the pound.
Nice work Steve.
Unfortunately you had to finish someone's Friday shift from many years ago.
The table sure came out nicely.
Thanks for sharing.
Take care, Ed.
Starting off the new year right. Those older cultures did the job n the new slots look great and work the way you want them to. Great job, enjoyed the video and thanks so much for a Saturday morning that starts the weekend off right. Thanks for sharing n see you next Saturday morning.
The operator that day at DOALL (Friday) saw the finish quality on castings and sand embedded and said," naw,this is all you get",LOL.Great job Steve,cast iron can be nasty.
Thanks for the upload, Steve. Cora is a sweetie.
Just found your channel and am very impressed with your knowledge and the quality of your work. I'm not a machinist, just a retired guy doing light fab and auto restoration, but bought a high quality drill press and found that just like yours my T-slots were not machined and would not accept standard T-nuts. I'm embarrassed to say that I solved the problem with disc and die grinders since I don't have a mill. Although I have a copy, it never would have occurred to me to consult Machinery's Hand Book for T-slot specs (and cutters). Will definitely checkout your other videos. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for stopping by the channel 👍
With the straight end mill you used to generate the wid of the narrow slot, go a head and run it deeper than the required "finish depth" . Just by a 1/32" or so. This allows two beneficial effects. The first is, in the original machining process it the slots, that gutter in the bottom greatly lessens the load on the HHS, specialty cutter. Particularly the bottom where the corners of the tee cutter burned up. The second beneficial effect is in the life long if the machine. It's not uncommon to have two types of t-nuts. Some with complete threads all the way through and some with partial threads .
The peanuts with threads all the way through allow you to clamp a tee nut in place by driving the tip of the stud into the bottom of the tee nut slot. This lets you use the stud for location as well as clamping. The stud will inevitably raise a burr in the bottom of the t-nut slot. This gully accommodates that. And helps the peanuts slide in and out with less friction and galling on burrs.
The disadvantage of screws going through the T nuts is that it allows upward pressure on the T slot and can cause breakout. T nuts should ideally clamp the T slot for grip.
Hi Chris, totally agree with the breaking out of tee slot shoulders. And jack force of any stud or bolt is a good way to do it. But upwards force is just that. Regardless of where that force comes from. Excluding a direct clamp of a through hole fixture ( like a mounting hole in a vise) there is danger of levering off one or both shoulders. Especially near the end of a slot .
The classic strap clamp and step block setup will not support the table above the t-slot.
And given this is a tall setup and may not be plumb it can asymmetrically load the shoulders. Making things even worse. The important thing is to never overload a single t slot/not combination.
Often I will relieve the t-nut flange near the center ever so slightly, with a stroke of a file, in order to make sure the upward Force is concentrated at the outer edge of the t slot, helping to reduce the moment load on the casting.
In situations where I want the stud to remain fixed either for positioning or convenience, tend to be production jobs. And even having a spring on the stud to lift the strap clamp usually is not enough to hold it in place as you clear the chips and load the next piece.
When I make my own t-nuts I tend to make them as long as will fit in the access slot on a Bridgeport table with at least two tapped holes. The longer length helps distribute the upward Force, and the second tapped hole allows you to use a set screw to affix its location. I suppose I should make one of those tapped holes incomplete to prevent jacking on the t slot floor.
I like using the studs for locating, because they're round shape is very tolerant of chips, and don't affect the piece's location. They are also inherently aligned along the x-axis of the machine.
Another trick,to keep the clamping set up repeatable and from becoming a floppy mess between parts is with my step blocks. Nicer ones with the holes through them can be a fixed to the table with a strap clamp. But on the cheaper ones I tap some 3/8 -16 holes into the sides near the bottom in order to insert a bolt and strap clamp that bolt down to the table. If it's 9/32" up from the bottom that's half of the 9/16" head of a hex head cap screw. The flat of the hex bolt makes a nice foot on the table of the mill.
Fixing to step block makes the angle of the strap clamp much more repeatable and less likely to be hit in milling operations.
Good point though about jacking pressure. Thanks for the reply, cheers
Adrian
Bro. Go back to uploading. You know a ton. I subbed.
Good job machining those T slots. The round boss on the bottom appeared to protrude about the base but I must have been wrong since you clamped the part directly to the table. That's one heck of a heavy duty drill press and milling machine.
Well done 👍.
Hi to all you lovely people from Dorset, UK.
My Saturday dose of Steve Summers! 😉
I find that running a mounted vacuum tube next to the cutter head pulls a little air into the cutter and gets rid of the cast iron dust as well.
You were right to cut the slots dry. Using coolant with cast iron shortens the cutter life as you get an abrasive paste tend to build up. I had to machine some chilled cast iron parts from a 1905 steam locomotive recently and even carbide was not staying in, tried coolant and they went blunt quicker. The only answer was CBN but what a price to equip a4" face mill and only one cutting edge per insert.
Steve, get yourself one of those HF hydraulic table carts. Your pallet jack is glorious but i bet for smaller jobs like yours in this vid, it would be more applicable!
So glad to see y’all in good health. Enjoyed the lathe work. Oh, yeah, PLEASE get rid of those spikes. Yikes!
nice series steve. good to see you making chips again. there is nothing to compare to those old heavy duty machines.
Thank you for sharing. Enjoyed.👍
That’s my kind of drill press!
Nice fix! But oh man, while you had it on the mill you should have drilled and tapped the back corners for a float lock arm.
Always a great Saturday project to learn something from.
When you started I was wondering how much of an issue would be caused by the cast iron dust getting recut and causing issues with the tooling and cut itself. I assumed after you stopped and added the air it would be a problem. Especially that long of a cut.
Appreciate the time to setup all the shots and editing time you spend on these. They just keep getting better!
Enjoyed…
A magnet by the table drain would have collected the cast iron dust if you had used coolant when milling.
I really like your vids! Thank you so much for them.
But PLEASE watch out for the drawstrips of your sweatshirt while machinig. I had an accident once with an angle grinder and a loose sleeve. Almost lost my hand.
I also have a particular Machinery's Handbook I prefer to use. It is a 14th edition with a stamp in the front cover of P Demuro. Not sure who he was or what years he used the book, but there is just something special about using that reference. It says 1952 on the title page, but I'm not 100% sure that was the year it was published or if that was the very first year the 14th edition was published.
Thanks for the video as usual and making me go pick up my book to look at the front cover again!
For any cast iron work it was always dry Except fine tolerance work. We used Paraffin (UK) probably lamp oil or Kerosene (US) especially fine boring bake master cylinders (.0005" tolerance)
My OCD would have made me fly cut the top surface while I had it on the mill.
Hiya Steve
Some magnets in a Ziploc bag or a switchable magnet from mag switch would keep all that cast iron dust from going everywhere
Like! Perhaps the machine was originally purchased "ON SALE" because it had no T slots due to the known hard spots! Economy model for the unsuspecting homeowner user ! LOL!
I have the larger MK4 brother of Your drill press, really nice machine to work with. Mine had the M12 14mm T slots. Made me think this could perhaps have been a metric imperial problem. I do not know if the re branded Doalls were made by Arboga or produced on license. If it was imported from Sweden the T slots could be M12 as they where on mine. Never seen roughly machined T-slots on these before. Mine had the table replaced with one of those Demander XY tables and an old digital well. Makes locating holes a breeze and the machine more useful. The xy table was an option from Arboga at least here in Sweden. Nice upgrade btw, I agree on keeping as few sizes as possible of T-nuts etc.
Either way metric or Imperial slots these were so rough and uneven from one side to the other that they would have been a nightmare to try and use. This is a Swedish machine so the casting was probably done with the intention of finishing the slots 14mm . My other drills table and foot t-slots were finished nicely.
They are both wonderful machines and are a joy to use. We also have one at my day job. It's sold under the Wilton name as mine are sold under the DoAll name. Same machine difference name. It's slots are all finished as well. Maybe it was a option to have them done or not🤔.
Seems strange that the base was done and not the main drill table.
Thanks for watching the videos.
@@SteveSummers It makes no sense for a quality conscious brand like Arboga to sell the tables without machining the T-slots. I guess they made a serious mistake with Yours. They also came with other tables, I have seen smaller round ones. Milling cast is always interesting... carbide breaks easily as well. I think You made the right call skipping the coolant, I never use coolant on cast iron. But I usually rigg a shop vacuum since the dust is pretty abrasive and ends up everywhere.I agree that these are a joy to use. Had withdrawal symptoms being without one for some years...
Steve, question? after you cut the slot to 5/8s" your already all lined up to switch cutters for the T stot cutter, Why not just run the T slot cutter through before moving the table of the mill over to the other slot , It would have been dead on center of the slot and saved you a bunch of horsein around going back trying to line up the center for the slot to the T slot cutter. This is where a DRO is very handy on a mill,
Or you can just learn to read the dials. It's a t-slot. Dials are plenty close enough.
Thanks for sharing. Maybe they ran out of tee slot cutters that week?
Did you consider decking it with a fly cutter or trying to braze the apprentice-speed hole?
Will this make the other drill press surplus?
You could have swapped the table from the other drill press. Something just seems wrong using a do all machine on another do all machine. Send love to Cora.
How was the coolant going to recirculate when the table doesn't have any drain holes?
Well done, Steven. When are you going to get back on the horizontal bandsaw?
I think those DoAll drill presses are made in Sweden by Arboga and I hope that DoAll didn't want to pay Sven an extra 10 Kroner to finish the T-slots. Other wise , as an expat Swede , I'm ashamed of my former countrymen for this.
Karl Anders
Comment for the algorithm!
👍👍
Great video Steve I was wondering does your dog stay in the shop all the time or is he go inside house
Please tell me you named your pallet jack "Natalie".
Maybe that was a replacement table, intended to be finished by the end user, to his own requirements.
I've always understood that you're actually not supposed to run coolant with cast iron.
I think you need to check your receipt to see if you can get some cash back for completing the job for them. 😂
The French guy from spongebob “2 weeks later”
I've seen this a lot more than you would believe. I worked on a Blanchard grinder once where they drilled the coolant drain holes down from the top of the table but didn't drill them all the way through. I tried to clean them out and hit solid iron! Had another Blanchard where they drilled oil return passages in the gear box incorrectly and they did not intersect so the oil could not return and mostly just leaked out on the floor. Amazingly, they had been using it that way since it was built in the 1980s. Also, they would do almost anything to avoid scrapping a part or casting. I've seen pulleys and gears right from the factory with 3 or 4 keyways broached in them before they got a good one with no inclusions.
On another note, many drill presses I have run into have the keys machined, but the "T" part is just left as cast.
Hey Wes, good to see you buddy👍.
It's amazing what some of these pass as good parts. The slots on this table were just about useless. They were so rough that nothing fit even half way decent. They went through the trouble of machining the slots on the foot / base but not the main work table 😄. I have seen cheaper machines with as cast slots but I was surprised to see it on a drill of this class.
I bet you have seen all kinds of this type of crap with your machine history.
Thanks for stopping by buddy.
Thanks for this bit of lore. It might help me with a bit of dickering room if I spot such a flaw on a used machine I would like to have.
As always very informative and interesting how you solve and improve machines in your shop. Cora is a charmer, I just love your interactions with her. We have a three-year-old Beagle and her actions are the same, playful and a pleasure to have around my home shop! Happy New Year Steve to you and all your family!
First! Happy New Year Steve and Elizabeth and family. Great job on the tee slots Steve, I think that I would have at least gone down to the full depth in the centre with that 5/8" carbide cutter to at least relieve the tee cutter from doing the centre slot work. That may well have been the hardest part of the casting directly under the sprue. Was the sides of that part where it was hard as polished as the centre looked? The cutters could have been damaged as they traversed radially over the actual 5/8" slot base where you said it was glass hard. Anyway that's my tuppeny take on it lol .cheers from the UK mate
I think they took the table out of the molds to soon and the hard spots cooled to quickly leaving white cast iron therein. Most likely a batch of them suffered the same fate. Rather than ruin a bunch of cutters or discard the tables they shipped them off as cast. That's my theory?
Have a great New Yeat!
I doubt that. If they pulled too soon they would still be hot. As long as they’re cool, it’s fine. You would have to chill the it]ron quickly to have hardness form, and then it would a fairly even surface hardening not random spotting. That happens because of an uneven mix. Why they didn’t get machined is anyone/s gues. A screwup most likely. It happens everywhere, just as they left sand from the mold.
Always enjoy watching this channel. What rpm on the t-slot cutter. Seemed fast for cast iron and HS steel. Also, whenever cutting t-slots in the past, we cut full depth with the flat endmill, and only cut the sides with the T-slot cutter.
I typically run a shop vac while machining cast iron. It’s noisy, but keeps that cast iron dust from going everywhere.
Thanks Steve. Your boss/supervisor sure is playful and full of energy.
One of those jobs we always do when we get 'A Round Tuit'. A job you won't regret doing. Bear in mind the 'skin' on cast iron can knacker a tungsten carbide cutter if your only taking a light skim so congratulate yourself on a job well done! A Happy and Prosperous New Year to you all from Somerset, England.
Those hard spots of "chill" contain ferric carbide, which is only a tad softer than tungsten carbide. Traditionally, chilled, AKA "white", iron was ground, not machined. A near diamond hard CBN cutter should be OK, but said cutter's cost is HIDEOUS.
I run a vacuum, not air. You’re just blowing the fine iron dust everywhere on and in the machine, even at low pressure. While iron dust doesn’t cause as many problems as some think (everybody is just repeating what they hear from others, round and round), it’s still never a good thing to get microscopic particles of metal in between the moving surfaces. And believe it that those tiny bits of iron dust does float in the air for several seconds. Enough time to float far enough to find those interfaces.
Nice one.
This could be a later model drill table, just saving a few bucks on manufacture costs.
Also a bit surprised you didn't under cut the base of the “T” slot with the 5/8 carbide cutter.
Probably last one on a Friday, and operator hit the hard spots, and went to go dress the tool to do the finish pass, but instead after the tool shop work it was home time, so decided to carry on Monday. Monday came, he forgot the cut was not completed, took it out and put the next one on instead. Then inspector was also hung over, passed it, and it went to assembly, who did not want to have the hassle, so put it on the next in line.
Happy Saturday to Steve, Cora, and Grits! Simple solution to an small problem. I never knew there was such a thing as a T slot cutter. Again, you spread the knowledge. Thanks for sharing and educating, God Bless, Happy New Year!
Great job. Commonality is a game changer.👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Hi Steve. How odd that press got by all the factory procedures like that. I have machined A LOT of cast iron through my career to know how castings can consume tooling. One small sand pocket can end their life. Carbide or highspeed, makes NO difference. There are numerous reasons for hard spots as well. Cast iron costs a 1/4 to a 1/10th of the process to make steel so manufacturers will use it any time they can. Little Cora sure has blessed your day to day. What a lovely wee beastie that has blessed you the day she showed up at your door. Great post and teachings for many. I always look forward to weekends to get caught up with you. Yer a good, kind man and a talented machinist/mechanic and more. You sure found your calling. Thanks fella and take care eh!
I might have been tempted to clamp a vacuum hose by the cutter to catch some of that mess. Last hoorah for those two cutters who went out in noble fashion. RIP
Greetings from Sweden!
Steve, If I recall one of your earlier vids about this 'Doall' machine it was from around here? Was it in fact a re-labled Strands or something?
Could it be that they sent all the "export to US" machines with blanks for tables and machined them metric to the machines in Europe.
Then your other "Doall" already had its table milled by someone just like you?
Thats my bet!
Steve Summers, you got my sub after only a few minutes of watching because you resonate. But, forgive if I think that you are a beginner at this doing things "the hardest and most time consuming way possible." Even someone with my limited machining experience would skip the step of indicating the table before clamping it to the milling machine. I would have gone straight to clamping the table upside-down, and milling the edge of the apron, as well as a sacrificial block on the mounting point in the center. That would give me the opportunity to rig up and dial in a support on the outside of the table to keep the weight of the whole thing from distorting the table/cut during the process, too.
Edit: On second watch, I see that the central table mounting is already the high spot, so another opportunity lost. What did you use to support where you clamped, if you don't mind telling?
This expression 'glass hard' I have heard before. And I understand that it means something that is very hard. But why GLASS hard ? Is glass in some way harder than steel, or maybe cast iron ? Is it that steel will not scratch glass ? I just don't understand why glass is referenced.
Couldn't help but notice your hoodie with the long drawstrings on it. Not long ago I was working in my shop and while leaning over something rotating realized the strings around my neck were ridding on the rotating part. Scared the crap out of me and I cut all mine off. Not to be the annoying safety guy but it's something I notice now.
Introduced my wife to Cora tonight Steve, second thing she said after aaarrghhhhh! was what breed is she? Of course I was unable to answer her!
Another great video from you both..
Geez, Steve, you could have made that a lot more complicated and time-consuming! For example, silver solder up your own carbide slot cutter. 😁
Steve you’ve go a good heart, dogs know and yours is responding.
would it be worth surfaceing the top as there was a discrepencey om the right side when you set it up acording to the gauge
Hey Steve, "We're going to fix it in the most complicated and time consuming way possible". Love that dry humor! My motto has always been "the hard way every time". No sense in doing things easy if there is a more difficult way, right? Nice repair on the drill press. Kind of ironic, the DoAll mill fixing the DoAll drill press. Core is such a sweet pup. Glad she was able to join your family. Thanks for the video!
I like it when you use your shaper. I have a big Klopp shaper but I'm missing some parts. I wonder what this job would look like if you set up on your Cincinnati. It reminds me of that quip "you can make anything on a shaper, except for money."
Edu-tainment at its finest, boy I love my Saturday mornings with Steve. 👏👍
Well done sir. Now you get to do a video on resharpening your slot cutters with your cutter grinder.
Olá amigo Steve muito bom trabalho!!!
Feliz Ano Novo com muita saúde e cheio de realizações!!!
Abraço
I am going with 'not a mistake' but an unpurchased option. In other words all the castings for the tables had the slots cast in but to have them machined was an optional upgrade. I know for machinists T slots are like water, they are a basic need. But for many others T slots are not used. Just a random thought. Have a great week and thanks for posting the videos.
Yea thought the same.
We have a old russian Drillpress in our company, and it´s only use is to "punsh" big holes into mild streel tubing and beams to shove bolts true them.
The power feed is the only feature besides turning the drill, used on this maschine.
If a machinist would see how our guys brute force those dull drills true that steel, he would have a heart attack! 😂
‘Through’ not true. Not sayin, just sayin.
Hi Steve, Happy new year to you and yours. Cast Iron generally doesn't need coolant, hard spots are a pain but it happens. You might have run a dovetail cutter to remove the burrs on the bottom part of the T slot, and a countersink cutter on the top of the slot, just so over time you dont get any burrs or bruises stopping the T nut sliding freely. Looking forward to 2023 content. Best wishes, Mal.
1ginner, you and Steve Summers (who immediately got my subscription after a few minutes of watching) both pleasantly reminded me of the vertical mill I had charge of when I was a shop technician at Wentworth Institute in Boston, Mass. When it arrived in our shop as a bone from the engineering school program, the t-slots had been so badly mangled from improvised hold-down nuts and bolts that we could hardly pass a proper t-nut through. No t-slot tooling, but I cleaned them up with a straight endmill that I ran down the slot at a 1 degree lean of the head, so that I would not alter dimension of the top of the slot. Worked well, and I was quite satisfied with myself for such a minor accomplishment.
Good thing you know a guy that can resharpen those cutters😎
I enjoyed the shop build and the truck build so much I find myself wishing for another huge project. I'm sure that's the last thing you wanna do after all that work though. Lol... Keep up the great work Steve!
Nice job, thing about cast iron is that you shouldn't need fluid for cutting. But that fine dust sure can tear up a surface and it gets everywhere. Thanks for sharing.
You could have run a carbide end mill to the full depth of the second slot, but it probably wouldn't have made much difference with the broken tooth. Good video none the less. Happy New Year!
Yeah, I thought of that after it was too late . It would have helped a bit but not completely. My DoAll Mill has a relief at the bottom of the slots from this method 👍
Hello, nice video again! Wonder why they done these slots imperial sizes in Sweden. 16mm (0,63") is so close 5/8" that it will work with 5/8" hardware but 16mm hardware may not work with 5/8" slot. Interesting to see they left a casting sand there.
Probably because they exported more to the US then they sold in Sweden. Or there are no hardware in metric size?
Worked out great for the price of two ruined cutters!
Only thing that the now almost perfect drill press needs, is a coolant system...
😉
Thx for showing!
👍👍👍
Same condition exist with my Powermatic 1200 bed. Must have been a Friday badday for QC :(< dept too? The base is fine, must have been detailed in an other division :)>. Have a great work wk, and work safe, Bear.
Hi STEVE , am surprised that you wear hoodie with dangling draw cords , as know 2 people die from cords getting caught in machinery ,let alone the ones injured .watching you machine the tee slots your cords where close too cutting head .want you alive to produce more videos ?
I would have had a hard time resisting the urge to braze in the pecker tracks and dust off that table with a fly cutter. Nice milling machine, BTW!
Steve, can your Eutectic kit be used like this th-cam.com/video/tXRUtuN2gAY/w-d-xo.html&feature=shares&t=473 to repair the top of the drill table?
This might be a stupid question but what do you even need a drill press for when you have that giant DoAll mill?
I bought a brand new Jet branded Arboga drill press last year and had to do the same thing to the t slots in the table. One thing I found when removing the table was that they had stuck a shim between the table and the mounting spigot, I guess to tram it with the spindle. Around the 4:10 mark, something falls to the ground as you're sliding the table onto the cart. It may have just been some crud, but it might be worth putting an indicator in the chuck and sweeping around the table. Thanks for making these videos.
Might be more cast sand that came loose..but yeah..it looks interesting? 🤔🤨
Good job as always Steve, what project is the timber for?
good video steve
Hi Steve Amazing how those little things can effect the whole work process. It's a good job done and much safer.
Cora's a very good doggo, and you do pretty nice work. Subscribed.
O1000
N100 Well I guess our question of why didn't they finish that table was answered lmao cuz they were smoking cutters left and right on those sand castings, on what must have been a bad day at the do-all shop for sand cast drill press tables, when they ran out of cutters I'm sure the foreman just said 'send em' and back in that day when that machine was born the machinists couldn't even spell carbide .
N200 Now for some pro tips on t slot cutting, if you're going to cut a t slot on a machine table, fixture plate and the likes, always overcut the bottom of the slot with the endmill if you look closely at his do-all Mill table that's the way it's done, lots of reasons why mostly though you never want to rely on a woodruff, side milling, t slot cutter to End Mill not really designed for that, they do great on finished passes 5 -15 whatever but it's not meant to plough it all out, sure in production situations cnc's lots of coolant they do it all the time Steve's shop nope, it'll last a lot longer and in this case the carbide endmill highly likely would have handled that sprue issue and then the staggered tooth t-slot cutter would have done a pretty good job just cutting on the sides, and being too lazy to put the chamfer on the top of the slots... unforgivable! that's cast iron that sharp edge is just going to Chip, kick up a burr for the rest of its life and always be a knuckle bleeding sharp edge quite shoddy in my eyes, gonna file it? I filed cast iron once!
N300 now I know I sound critical, but I love Steve Summer's channel I watch all his content and I think he's doing God's work saving all that real American steel and yes! I think he is a mechanical wizard.... machining wizard...meh? that's me... any questions? just assk h'ole Fred here at Sullinger Complex Machining in Colorado. "Cradle to Grave" they will peel 436's out of my dead cold hands.
M30.
footnote:
steve's channel also inspired me to recently save a Hardinge HC and now i'm looking for a Hardinge TM-UM i may go down the hardinge rabbit hole..it only takes 1, and the best machinist on UT is adam...demuth 'adam the machinist'
Cora was excited you finished the project, so she could get some playtime 🤣
Couldn't you 'clean' your coolant with a magnet?
Also, just do offset passes, such that you'd only have 4? Or does doing 5 make it more precise (spring pass, per se). Or what a straight carbide cutter for the first pass, especially with the glass hardened area? Could've fixed that apprentice mark to (weld and mill down). (Edited bc I'm still watching.)
THAT IS ONE HEFTY MILL! Bridgeport style but a masterclass frame... What is she, 2.4 tonnes? around 5k pounds? Maybe less, as the main body is likely somewhat hollow, but still, that is one gorgeous lady... Also, before indicating that surface, i woulda flat stoned it just to allow the wide indicator ``tip`` to not have to contend with any high spots that would allow the needle to jump around the clock... Altho, here it really was not needed, as the clock itself displayed... Also, i woulda placed an A3 or larger paper between the mill table and the drill table, just to allow for some protection and better grip with the toe clamps... Also, altho unnecessary here, it provides a bit of dampening effect due to nature of paper... Speaking of dust and coolant, i woulda used coolant, just plug the drill table drain holes(cant see any) and flood the table itself with what, 0.6L of emulsion mixture and let the coolant contain the cast iron dust, rather than blowing what is essentially abrasive dust all over the shop... Save your main coolant, but if you are working with a pocketed part, fill the pocket out with coolant and contain all the work from heating or producing free swarf/dust... I woulda for example extended the quill all the way out and wiped it down with a fresh clean and oiled lintless rag to remove any cast dust from it in your case... Also, consider other cooling fluids... When i do extensive drilling or milling or even tapping in a blind bore or a pocket, i prefer to use regular mineral oil or for hardcore drilling and tapping, manual gearbox oil... Sure, its smokey as hell, but it provides total containment of any small swarf and micro-chips, aswell as providing great lubrication to the cutters(drills and taps incl) and decent enough cooling to allow hssCo and carbide tools to never break a sweat... I almost always mill cast iron flooded entirely... If i have to work with it, i make sure i can flood it like in you would in an EDM machine... I know it needs no lube, but i dont care for what cast iron needs, i know it wants a sharp cutter and total containment as not to produce what your average machine fears as much as americans fear asbestos... A marvelous material to work dry, and a machine carcinogen... Dont expose such lovely machines to that terror...
As always, thank you for your hard work and dedication to the channel❤️
You are So ⛏️ picky 😜 LoL what I would do is Mill them out, oh you are! Just saying. Enough stupidity! Thanks for another good video. Nice to see you back in the shop 🤠. George from Indiana