Great videos! Got a mild ~450 HP (at best) Cleveland going in my 67, with Caltracs on there way. Waiting on Tim to get the Iron Track Boss blocks sorted out for my 408 build. Wicked car - glad I stumbled onto your videos. Please keep them coming!
Thanks man, glad your here. Lots of vids to view. With the new TrackBoss, you better hang on...Thanks for subscribing, please share my vids, trying to build this channel. Keep me posted on your build....
Your suspension works great - can't deny that. But I would - respectfully - take exception with the pinion angle comment. There is nothing about the physics that makes a car hook differently with different pinion angle. The torque applied to the suspension (and any resultant reactions with the car) is exactly the same if the pinion was pointing at the sky, ground or anywhere else. Your comment that it works with negative angle notes a coincidence, not a cause. With regards to the pinion rotating up on launch, that doesn't really happen with all. Many suspensions extend on launch, actually pushing the pinion angle even more down. But again, your car works great and I appreciate your comment that you do what works for you. BTW, great channel.
Thanks Michael, I understand what your saying. My understanding is not that it affects traction, but that under power the optimal position of pinion is o degrees. This allows for the best operating or drive line angle? I appreciate you taking the time to comment. What do you rave Michael? Glad you enjoy the channel.
@@DragBoss351Cleveland Your car works great! And yep, it certainly rotates up and reduces pinion angle. But not all cars are like that. And, pinion angle is nearly irrelevant on launch because shaft rpm is zero/low, and it has no affect on traction (my main point). Pinion angle matters when your shaft is 7000 rpm through the lights. That's when it's gonna vibrate and come through the floor because of angle errors (distinctly different failure mode than exceeding critical speed). I've helped a few cars that had driveshafts breaking on the big end and the solution was actually going negative on the pinion angle (because of what the FRONT joint angle was. Angles should be equal and OPPOSITE. Again, your car works great!! And I love the channel.
@@mback12000 thank man for being here. Thinking about a carbon fiber driveshaft. Video cams are indispensable under the car. Big help with suspension for me.
Great vid Tim 👍🏼 only if i knew some of this stuff in the early days 🤷🏼♂️ i get it now with them shims i had a buddy with a 570hp Clevo in a 4door falcon back then & the diff always tried to spin/rotate backward off its bracket plate on the launch , it was ridiculous...🤦🏻♂️
You got to build it for power. So true, if I only knew what I know now back then, we all would be racing 700hp Cleveland’s. Gusset the rearend and batten down the hatches
Tim, another great presentation with some specific details about what works well for you. I posed a question on your other Caltrac video about the shackles. If I understand correctly, the shackles are Ford production items. I’m not up to speed on available options but they look to be very sturdy like some I’ve seen from aftermarket sources. Keep the good stuff coming and thanks !
I have used stock ford shackles without any issues, been 1.27 with them. I recently installed global west del a lum bushing rear shackle kit. They move much easier than stock shackles. Need to replace mono leaf next.
According to the wallace calc, 1.27 60ft in an optimised car is 9.14, so if you're car et's the same or slower, that's good. My car is on leaf springs, DA shocks best 1.36 at 10.14 et.
Michael Deakin your right with everything perfect and starz aligned. Lots of variables to consider. . Running 10 teens my car was 1.37-8. Look through your combo, and see if there is anything else you can change to chip away the sixty. Thanks for watching.
@@DragBoss351Cleveland Yeah, I spent a lot of time on my car to shorten the 60ft, 6 cyl shocks, front nice and loose, nothing binding, i cut my bump stops down, clamps on front sections of my SS springs, also pump shooters and cams help. Just bought a car, got it home, looked underneath and it's got caltracs, so I will use your tips for adjustment.
I adjusted my rear suspension real similar to what you said and it help a bunch haven't gotten to the track so no numbers just by the seat of pants big difference. What have you done to the front I have a 70 mustang so should be similar to yours. Any hell would be appreciated
I replaced front springs with 6 cylinder springs. I replaced spring perches with roller ones. I also replaced the front strut bars with roller ones from global west. The upper and lower control arms I have lubed up and loose, should move easy with hand. I previously had Clavert front shocks, and rear ranchos. Will sell them cheap if interested. Had to move up to DA shocks. You need at least 5 1/2 inches of front end travel.
500hp nova with glide and brake 1.45 60’. Currently in top hole no preload and pulls wheels 1 1/2 - 2 feet. Front shocks set loose, rear SA 2 out of 18 clicks. Any adjustments I can make to help higher wheelstand?
That wheel stands is pretty good for 500 hp. 60 Ft, could be better, may be the glide. Make sure you have at least 5 inches of front end travel. Makes sure all suspension is loose. What I found that worked well was the lower hole and leaving at 3400. Lower hole hits less and may be better for your car. I need to update this video. Thanks for watching Jamie.
@@JFord412X I will try to make a better video especially with my wheelie secrets that I’ve learned over the years. It’s not about the hardest hit many times it’s about smooth control the power, and everything working together. PS love the nova
@@DragBoss351Cleveland Wish I would have seen your video about 4 years ago took me 3 years to get mine to hook 1 turn preload bottom hole works on mine also great video man
@@keysautorepair6038 Yes the top holes hits too hard, need less hit sometimes to really work the rest of the suspension. Smoothly. Thanks for checking out my channel, share the vids man.
Why is it relevant if everything is “loose” if nobody’s sitting in the car. Depending on the weight of the driver, and what you want your individual wheel weights, it might not be a universal rule to keep it loose, correct?
To me loose means no binding, it makes no difference if there is weight in car setting it up. All pivot points move freely. When you add your weight, the bars should be loose, and then adjust. Are they still as loose after adjustment and tightening with your weight, yes pretty much, with the bushings and smart tightening, not over tightening, not sure what you mean by individual wheel weights..Thanks for asking questions.
I guess I was just referring to the preload. I understand that you want no binding, I think I just misunderstood what you said the first time I watched the video. I thought you were saying you wanted all that loose with nobody in the car. I was just pointing out once you put a turn of preload in, that bar won’t be loose. I know now that you just meant the eye of the heim joint and to make sure none of that was bound up and could rotate. I have no idea why the bracket for the shackle needs to be loose though. There’s a bushing in there and that’s where that’s rotating correct? Why you you want the bracket loose? Isn’t that just asking for trouble.
@@henglish3398 Good point, it comes down to knowing how tight is tight. Regardless of bushing, if you tighten to tight, and squeeze bushing you can deform it, and it causes slight degree of binding. That is why I use lock nuts, and tighten enough to keep secure. If you are unsure of this, just tighten it down. You are not going to pick up a tenth by keeping it loose. I just do what I know works for me.
General tuning tips would apply no matter what shock you use. I dont mean the actual clicks. things like with a radial tire you want stiff compression to hold the tire down. Describe the process for finding the right settings. Where did you start on shock settings? What did the car do? What changes did you make and why? For example, if it hooks for a foot, then spins, what do you do? What if it spins right on the hit? That kind of stuff would be vert valuable to someone who just installed the set up.
I have ran CE, 3 way adj., Calverts 90/10s, and now custom DA by Mark Menscer. Mine are his first prototypes, He sponsored me with the pair for free. I have his rears, previously ran old Rancho 5 way adj. Anything under 9 seconds, can get by with SA, once in 9s, need good DA,
Sliders suck! And also the rear shackles should be at 90° perpendicular to the spring at ride height. I love leaf cars, been making them stand on the rear bumper for years, even on dirt cars......
I will say the best 60 ft I have had was with stock shackles, 1.27. I was debating on installing sliders, already bought them. Thanks Jerrell for commenting and stay tuned
@@DragBoss351Cleveland i can possibly give you alot of good insight about leaf spring cars, and pretty much all suspension, if you would like to chat sometime.
@@jerrellkull5347 John Calvert used my car to make the mono leaf spring for mustangs and cougars back in 98. I have a pretty good handle on it, but you can always learn something new and I may be missing something. Thanks. Email me your contact info. Thpa351 @ Gmail
![[Gegagedigedagedago] NEW Help Gegagedigedagedago Nugget escape from Nikocado Avocado Challenge](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/hJWnwRC2Fz8/mqdefault.jpg)
Great videos! Got a mild ~450 HP (at best) Cleveland going in my 67, with Caltracs on there way. Waiting on Tim to get the Iron Track Boss blocks sorted out for my 408 build. Wicked car - glad I stumbled onto your videos. Please keep them coming!
Thanks man, glad your here. Lots of vids to view. With the new TrackBoss, you better hang on...Thanks for subscribing, please share my vids, trying to build this channel. Keep me posted on your build....
I've got the same set up. What's your best 60ft and rear shock clicks?
Your suspension works great - can't deny that. But I would - respectfully - take exception with the pinion angle comment. There is nothing about the physics that makes a car hook differently with different pinion angle. The torque applied to the suspension (and any resultant reactions with the car) is exactly the same if the pinion was pointing at the sky, ground or anywhere else. Your comment that it works with negative angle notes a coincidence, not a cause. With regards to the pinion rotating up on launch, that doesn't really happen with all. Many suspensions extend on launch, actually pushing the pinion angle even more down. But again, your car works great and I appreciate your comment that you do what works for you. BTW, great channel.
Thanks Michael, I understand what your saying. My understanding is not that it affects traction, but that under power the optimal position of pinion is o degrees. This allows for the best operating or drive line angle? I appreciate you taking the time to comment. What do you rave Michael? Glad you enjoy the channel.
Mike you watch this video and tell me what the pinion does. th-cam.com/video/1aLdTgAg_CI/w-d-xo.html
@@DragBoss351Cleveland Your car works great! And yep, it certainly rotates up and reduces pinion angle. But not all cars are like that. And, pinion angle is nearly irrelevant on launch because shaft rpm is zero/low, and it has no affect on traction (my main point). Pinion angle matters when your shaft is 7000 rpm through the lights. That's when it's gonna vibrate and come through the floor because of angle errors (distinctly different failure mode than exceeding critical speed). I've helped a few cars that had driveshafts breaking on the big end and the solution was actually going negative on the pinion angle (because of what the FRONT joint angle was. Angles should be equal and OPPOSITE. Again, your car works great!! And I love the channel.
@@mback12000 thank man for being here. Thinking about a carbon fiber driveshaft. Video cams are indispensable under the car. Big help with suspension for me.
Great vid Tim 👍🏼 only if i knew some of this stuff in the early days 🤷🏼♂️ i get it now with them shims i had a buddy with a 570hp Clevo in a 4door falcon back then & the diff always tried to spin/rotate backward off its bracket plate on the launch , it was ridiculous...🤦🏻♂️
You got to build it for power. So true, if I only knew what I know now back then, we all would be racing 700hp Cleveland’s. Gusset the rearend and batten down the hatches
@@DragBoss351Cleveland 💯%
anyone , especially down under 🇦🇺with there leaf-sprung Falcons should be tuning into this vid 👌🏼 , good insight 👍🏼🏁
@@69JANKS I am going to make a few vids on more leaf spring info, and my wheelie tricks.
@@DragBoss351Cleveland 👍🏼🏁
Tim, another great presentation with some specific details about what works well for you. I posed a question on your other Caltrac video about the shackles. If I understand correctly, the shackles are Ford production items. I’m not up to speed on available options but they look to be very sturdy like some I’ve seen from aftermarket sources. Keep the good stuff coming and thanks !
I have used stock ford shackles without any issues, been 1.27 with them. I recently installed global west del a lum bushing rear shackle kit. They move much easier than stock shackles. Need to replace mono leaf next.
What’s wrong with a mono leaf
Thanks Tim
Your welcome
According to the wallace calc, 1.27 60ft in an optimised car is 9.14, so if you're car et's the same or slower, that's good. My car is on leaf springs, DA shocks best 1.36 at 10.14 et.
Michael Deakin your right with everything perfect and starz aligned. Lots of variables to consider. . Running 10 teens my car was 1.37-8. Look through your combo, and see if there is anything else you can change to chip away the sixty. Thanks for watching.
@@DragBoss351Cleveland Yeah, I spent a lot of time on my car to shorten the 60ft, 6 cyl shocks, front nice and loose, nothing binding, i cut my bump stops down, clamps on front sections of my SS springs, also pump shooters and cams help. Just bought a car, got it home, looked underneath and it's got caltracs, so I will use your tips for adjustment.
I adjusted my rear suspension real similar to what you said and it help a bunch haven't gotten to the track so no numbers just by the seat of pants big difference. What have you done to the front I have a 70 mustang so should be similar to yours. Any hell would be appreciated
I replaced front springs with 6 cylinder springs. I replaced spring perches with roller ones. I also replaced the front strut bars with roller ones from global west. The upper and lower control arms I have lubed up and loose, should move easy with hand. I previously had Clavert front shocks, and rear ranchos. Will sell them cheap if interested. Had to move up to DA shocks. You need at least 5 1/2 inches of front end travel.
500hp nova with glide and brake 1.45 60’. Currently in top hole no preload and pulls wheels 1 1/2 - 2 feet. Front shocks set loose, rear SA 2 out of 18 clicks. Any adjustments I can make to help higher wheelstand?
That wheel stands is pretty good for 500 hp. 60 Ft, could be better, may be the glide. Make sure you have at least 5 inches of front end travel. Makes sure all suspension is loose. What I found that worked well was the lower hole and leaving at 3400. Lower hole hits less and may be better for your car. I need to update this video. Thanks for watching Jamie.
@@DragBoss351Cleveland thank you! I will give that a shot.
@@JFord412X I will try to make a better video especially with my wheelie secrets that I’ve learned over the years. It’s not about the hardest hit many times it’s about smooth control the power, and everything working together. PS love the nova
Been using Caltracs for 4 years 126 60 small tire and climbing.
Wicked. My best is a 1.27, 10.5 inch tire. Hope I helped.
@@DragBoss351Cleveland
Wish I would have seen your video about 4 years ago took me 3 years to get mine to hook 1 turn preload bottom hole works on mine also great video man
@@keysautorepair6038 Yes the top holes hits too hard, need less hit sometimes to really work the rest of the suspension. Smoothly. Thanks for checking out my channel, share the vids man.
Thank you so much. I appreciate it. Glad I could help
Top hole, small gap for wheel stands?
Thank you
Depends on how much power you make. Hardest hit does not always give the best times, ot wheel stands.
Trying to get my stick truck to wheelie has c07 10.50w tires
Add some weight to the back.
Why is it relevant if everything is “loose” if nobody’s sitting in the car. Depending on the weight of the driver, and what you want your individual wheel weights, it might not be a universal rule to keep it loose, correct?
To me loose means no binding, it makes no difference if there is weight in car setting it up. All pivot points move freely. When you add your weight, the bars should be loose, and then adjust. Are they still as loose after adjustment and tightening with your weight, yes pretty much, with the bushings and smart tightening, not over tightening, not sure what you mean by individual wheel weights..Thanks for asking questions.
I guess I was just referring to the preload. I understand that you want no binding, I think I just misunderstood what you said the first time I watched the video. I thought you were saying you wanted all that loose with nobody in the car. I was just pointing out once you put a turn of preload in, that bar won’t be loose. I know now that you just meant the eye of the heim joint and to make sure none of that was bound up and could rotate.
I have no idea why the bracket for the shackle needs to be loose though. There’s a bushing in there and that’s where that’s rotating correct? Why you you want the bracket loose? Isn’t that just asking for trouble.
@@henglish3398 Good point, it comes down to knowing how tight is tight. Regardless of bushing, if you tighten to tight, and squeeze bushing you can deform it, and it causes slight degree of binding. That is why I use lock nuts, and tighten enough to keep secure. If you are unsure of this, just tighten it down. You are not going to pick up a tenth by keeping it loose. I just do what I know works for me.
How about some details like shock settings?
Greg, not sure how that will help, unless you have the same shocks?
General tuning tips would apply no matter what shock you use. I dont mean the actual clicks. things like with a radial tire you want stiff compression to hold the tire down. Describe the process for finding the right settings. Where did you start on shock settings? What did the car do? What changes did you make and why? For example, if it hooks for a foot, then spins, what do you do? What if it spins right on the hit? That kind of stuff would be vert valuable to someone who just installed the set up.
@@gregs69rs I will try and address some of this info on next vids on Calvert Mono leaf install. Thanks for the clarification.
What shocks are you running
I have ran CE, 3 way adj., Calverts 90/10s, and now custom DA by Mark Menscer. Mine are his first prototypes, He sponsored me with the pair for free. I have his rears, previously ran old Rancho 5 way adj. Anything under 9 seconds, can get by with SA, once in 9s, need good DA,
yeah man
Hell Yeah! that was from going from a 385ci to 408ci Cleveland...
Sliders suck! And also the rear shackles should be at 90° perpendicular to the spring at ride height. I love leaf cars, been making them stand on the rear bumper for years, even on dirt cars......
I will say the best 60 ft I have had was with stock shackles, 1.27. I was debating on installing sliders, already bought them. Thanks Jerrell for commenting and stay tuned
@@DragBoss351Cleveland i can possibly give you alot of good insight about leaf spring cars, and pretty much all suspension, if you would like to chat sometime.
@@jerrellkull5347 John Calvert used my car to make the mono leaf spring for mustangs and cougars back in 98. I have a pretty good handle on it, but you can always learn something new and I may be missing something. Thanks. Email me your contact info. Thpa351 @ Gmail
Question get back to me
I must have missed this, sorry. Can I help now?