Hi Ryan, I enjoy watching your videos, keep it up, just a request can you make a video of how to make Gucci Rush 2 perfume, which is a really good perfume
This is interesting… I created my formulations “a trail and error” kind of formulation. Now what ive notice is that pink pepper corn & olibanun/frankincense really works well. I think with cardamom and juniper berries will be a great combo on top to mid for my formulations. Another thing is that trying to find some literature of using Coumarin, i think i overdosed mine. In your formula its only around 0.2/liter. One more thing that am looking is that, the ethyl maltol.. someone told me that its became more potent after its maceration stage.
I was expecting a HUGE difference in the woody-spice section (because so many components with fairly unique notes were added), but was surprised (slightly disappointed too, perhaps) to see a less pronounced effect. I actually hope to blend this myself once I get some of the missing materials. As again, amazing work! Eagerly waiting for your reviews of your previous blends (especially because by now I've watched almost your entire videography 😅).
Another great learning video! Ryan you said you add Vetiver 'neat' and the rest of the materials at 10% or 1%. With near you mean vetiver oil is at 100% compared to all the other materials?
Do you always allow the ingredients to age with the alcohol? Can you allow the ingredients to age for a few weeks in it's concentrated form and then add the perfumers alcohol once you're satisfied with the results?
Brother do you find difference in result by keeping concentrate aside for a month then adding alcohol or adding alcohol immediately after blending the concentrate ?
On the one hand it's impressive Chanel are using over 30% vetiver in a fragrance but the formula feels very uninspired, all the predictable things to complexify the vetiver, all very classical, nothing unexpected except the cassis abs, which I'm not certain of.
Why some perfumers use the antioxidant BHT at 0.01 and some others from 0.1 up to 0.8? What's the factor that affects the quantity of it in each formula?
When you have materials in a formula that easily oxidize, you should use BHT. If you have a lot of materials that oxidize, you should use more BHT. Some materials just smell bad when they oxidize. Other materials (like Limonene) can cause serious skin issues when they oxidize.
After you macerate for however long, is it required to freeze the bottles then put them through a strainer? I l just learned about this and was wondering why this was recommended since I don't actually see anything in the juice itself.
@@yigitadrbelli4880 If I were to make a few bottles for friends for Christmas, would you recommend filtering? Is there a maximum time limit for aging before filtering that you'd recommend?
@@isobutylquinoline from my experience and things I have read, chemical reactions amongst the raw materials in a composition reach equilibrium in 3 months
@@isobutylquinoline filtering for what? If you are not using solid/granulated aromatic things in your composition, there is no need for filtering. As for powders, we use solvents to blend them in the concentrate and in ethanol. If your solids/powders are not mixing with ethanol, then you need a solvent to make them mobile. If your compositions are hazy, then there might be some ACs that don't mix well each other
It’s common practice to filter before bottling. Sarah McCartney and Sam macer talk about this. There is a specific filter paper that is used. I have never done it. For one, in my mind, you are changing the formula to some extent. Especially if you are using thick resins. I have never had a problem with gumming atomizers, but I usually keep my concentrations below 15%. It could be an issue if you are using really high concentrations with resins and solids. I’m not sure (but I could be wrong) filtering fixes cloudiness. There are three materials in my experience that have caused this. Juniper berry, ylang and orris butter tincture. When I use any of those I have experienced some cloudiness issues. A fourth scenario that creates a temporary cloudiness is cardamom and DPG. It does clear after a day or so. If you do filter, I would macerate for as long as possible. Like the other poster said 3 months would be ideal. If you are using lots of synthetic/light materials I don’t really see a need, especially on a small scale. On a large production scale I could see the potential of foreign objects, like an eyelash, bits of paper, plastic or or what have you making their way into the mix. I just watched a review by ATH where he saw something floating in a bottle. Not sure about the freezing thing, I’ll have to look that up.
i just wanted to write "i have another formula from a local russian source" - and gosh, it's the same one! it's from kirill khaikin's tg, and i believe he did gcms and analysed it himself.
@@Topten0548 Ah, substitutes for these are not easy. For Vetiveryl acetate you could use your cleanest vetiver (Haitian), see any GCMS for Vetiver and adjust accordingly, but it is added to increase the vetiver feel in a clean way. Florol... it's a muguet floralyzer, you /can/ use Lyral (potentially even Lilial, though this is banned), probably the best replacement is Hydroxycitronellal. Methyl Pamplemousse is kind of critical here, like in Terre D'Hermes. It is a grapefruity citrus which plays really well with Vetiver. Grapefruit EO wouldn't last nearly long enough...
. It is a solvent. It could have been in there to dilute the C12. But I’m not sure the math works out on that, with that much TEC, could have been added in separately. I don’t see the need to specifically use TEC, unless you are going to use it for cosmetics where there is a performance factor. You could just add DPG to round out the formula.
I really like this formula. Made it with a couple subs and it came out very nice. Thank you for all you do.
Love the flannel.
It used to be my signature scent for 10 years. Thanks for the great content ! By the way, it's SycOmore 😗
Thank you for the spelling heads up!
nice one!! looking forward to seeing how different it is to the Fraterworks one
Paradise Molecule® 20
Orbitone® 430
Orcanox™ 10
Hexyl Cinnamic Aldehyde 20
Muscenone® Delta 10
Muscone Laevo 10% 15
Vetiver Oil Haiti, CSM LMR 340
Ambrettolide IFF 8
Civettone 10% 2
Helvetolide® 45
Cashmeran® 20
Sandexol® 5
Hedione® 50
Bergamot “Superior” Oil, FCF 15
Pink Peppercorn Oil, CSM LMR 2
Cardamom “Signature” Oil 10% 5
Juniper Berry Oil, Rectified 3
Hi Ryan, I enjoy watching your videos, keep it up, just a request can you make a video of how to make Gucci Rush 2 perfume, which is a really good perfume
A very nice and elegant formula, thanks Ryan.
This is interesting…
I created my formulations “a trail and error” kind of formulation.
Now what ive notice is that pink pepper corn & olibanun/frankincense really works well. I think with cardamom and juniper berries will be a great combo on top to mid for my formulations.
Another thing is that trying to find some literature of using Coumarin, i think i overdosed mine. In your formula its only around 0.2/liter.
One more thing that am looking is that, the ethyl maltol.. someone told me that its became more potent after its maceration stage.
I always enjoy seeing you. Thank you. I hope you continue.
I was expecting a HUGE difference in the woody-spice section (because so many components with fairly unique notes were added), but was surprised (slightly disappointed too, perhaps) to see a less pronounced effect. I actually hope to blend this myself once I get some of the missing materials.
As again, amazing work! Eagerly waiting for your reviews of your previous blends (especially because by now I've watched almost your entire videography 😅).
Please brother next time just mention the dilution ratio in formula.And which solvent you use.And which solvent you use for natural elements.
Love this!
Another great learning video!
Ryan you said you add Vetiver 'neat' and the rest of the materials at 10% or 1%. With near you mean vetiver oil is at 100% compared to all the other materials?
Correct!
Yes too easy
Vetiver Haiti is pricey stuff for sure.
Great ...another remarkable effort...my request is pending yet...Allure Homme edition Blanch
Do you always allow the ingredients to age with the alcohol? Can you allow the ingredients to age for a few weeks in it's concentrated form and then add the perfumers alcohol once you're satisfied with the results?
I’ve done it both ways, and I can’t yet figure out which is better.
Brother do you find difference in result by keeping concentrate aside for a month then adding alcohol or adding alcohol immediately after blending the concentrate ?
I haven’t noticed a difference. Although, I have done rigorous testing of these different processes yet.
i'm interested in the material civettone.
any more formula using this material in your future video?
Probably not for a while. It’s not in many formulas.
On the one hand it's impressive Chanel are using over 30% vetiver in a fragrance but the formula feels very uninspired, all the predictable things to complexify the vetiver, all very classical, nothing unexpected except the cassis abs, which I'm not certain of.
Why some perfumers use the antioxidant BHT at 0.01 and some others from 0.1 up to 0.8? What's the factor that affects the quantity of it in each formula?
When you have materials in a formula that easily oxidize, you should use BHT. If you have a lot of materials that oxidize, you should use more BHT. Some materials just smell bad when they oxidize. Other materials (like Limonene) can cause serious skin issues when they oxidize.
do you get cloudiness mixing the pink pepper and juniper with ethanol?
I’ve used 2 suppliers of juniper, the latest one does create cloudiness. Not with the pink pepper so far.
I have not. Occasionally, depending on the supplier, I get cloudiness when mixing with ethanol *and* BHT. But never with ethanol alone.
After you macerate for however long, is it required to freeze the bottles then put them through a strainer? I l just learned about this and was wondering why this was recommended since I don't actually see anything in the juice itself.
To stop macerating or aging/maturating your concentrate
@@yigitadrbelli4880 If I were to make a few bottles for friends for Christmas, would you recommend filtering? Is there a maximum time limit for aging before filtering that you'd recommend?
@@isobutylquinoline from my experience and things I have read, chemical reactions amongst the raw materials in a composition reach equilibrium in 3 months
@@isobutylquinoline filtering for what? If you are not using solid/granulated aromatic things in your composition, there is no need for filtering. As for powders, we use solvents to blend them in the concentrate and in ethanol. If your solids/powders are not mixing with ethanol, then you need a solvent to make them mobile. If your compositions are hazy, then there might be some ACs that don't mix well each other
It’s common practice to filter before bottling. Sarah McCartney and Sam macer talk about this. There is a specific filter paper that is used.
I have never done it. For one, in my mind, you are changing the formula to some extent. Especially if you are using thick resins.
I have never had a problem with gumming atomizers, but I usually keep my concentrations below 15%.
It could be an issue if you are using really high concentrations with resins and solids.
I’m not sure (but I could be wrong) filtering fixes cloudiness. There are three materials in my experience that have caused this. Juniper berry, ylang and orris butter tincture. When I use any of those I have experienced some cloudiness issues.
A fourth scenario that creates a temporary cloudiness is cardamom and DPG. It does clear after a day or so.
If you do filter, I would macerate for as long as possible. Like the other poster said 3 months would be ideal.
If you are using lots of synthetic/light materials I don’t really see a need, especially on a small scale.
On a large production scale I could see the potential of foreign objects, like an eyelash, bits of paper, plastic or or what have you making their way into the mix.
I just watched a review by ATH where he saw something floating in a bottle.
Not sure about the freezing thing, I’ll have to look that up.
i just wanted to write "i have another formula from a local russian source" - and gosh, it's the same one! it's from kirill khaikin's tg, and i believe he did gcms and analysed it himself.
Where can I find more of his formulas?
Please tell me the replacement of
Florol
Vetiveryl Acetate
Methyl pamplemousse
Kephalis
Please define repayment?
@Bluedawn295 sorry i should say replacement 😅
@@Bluedawn295 :D
@@Topten0548 Ah, substitutes for these are not easy. For Vetiveryl acetate you could use your cleanest vetiver (Haitian), see any GCMS for Vetiver and adjust accordingly, but it is added to increase the vetiver feel in a clean way. Florol... it's a muguet floralyzer, you /can/ use Lyral (potentially even Lilial, though this is banned), probably the best replacement is Hydroxycitronellal. Methyl Pamplemousse is kind of critical here, like in Terre D'Hermes. It is a grapefruity citrus which plays really well with Vetiver. Grapefruit EO wouldn't last nearly long enough...
Ciao Ryan, what is the name of the telegram channel this formula is taken from?
Khaikin PR
What is TEC?
Triethyl Citrate
@@RyanParfums thanks
@@RyanParfums love the videos i learn a lot from you, thank you
Ryan why do you need to add TEC? Is it to dilute any of the materials that is solid? @@RyanParfums
. It is a solvent. It could have been in there to dilute the C12. But I’m not sure the math works out on that, with that much TEC, could have been added in separately.
I don’t see the need to specifically use TEC, unless you are going to use it for cosmetics where there is a performance factor.
You could just add DPG to round out the formula.