Great information and thanks for sharing your knowledge on this. Helped a bunch, especially how to get the shifter control into neutral. Alignment of gears very important. Also learned to use inspection camera with snake light to see how the forks align into the slots, and need to move slightly. Another thing that helped was use long bolts, so could lift shifter top straight up then look under with the snake light camera, and make sure completely aligned. Goes straight down without movement forward or backward. Took me 4 times and the stud and camera helped... Thanks again
Phil. Super glad this helped you. That’s a great idea to use Long bolts and an awesome little camera. It takes a little while to get them lined up and it can be tricky.
Thank you so much for taking the time to make these videos, My last assembly on my 424 with the same shifter is a great success. And you answered my questions as well, Bravo! on a side note, while I had it apart I replaced all the balls and detent springs in the top, she shifts like a new one now.
Mike Young I am glad it helped you. I figured I needed to make a video so I would remember how to do it. Having the springs in the top with the balls are key to keeping it shifting smooth.
Unfortunately no. Tried many different ways. They all lead to no. It’s a less than ideal design for that top shifter plate as you can’t get it out from underneath the hydraulic control piece(straight down between your legs when seated.) if you leave the one back bolt out you can kinda lift the cover just enough to aggravate you. For 1-2 years that’s the way I would sneak in a custom bent piece of 1/8” or so rod. After many trials to get the gears in alignment I could do it with this very custom tool. Till one time I pried really hard on the cast cover and snapped a piece of it off and got metal into my eye that had to be drilled out. So the answer is no. It’s sucks to pull the hydraulic sump/assembly but it’s the only way. On the happy side. My eye is fine and the shifter/gears have stayed operational since the elongation to the shifter plate holes and the grinding on the shifter fork.
@@weaversstonehousefarm Have you tried just removing the shift lever and then lining up the the transmission through the hole with a pry bar or heavy screw driver, going in the through top of the transmission cover that the shift lever goes through? Thank you for the fast reply.
@@clearlake2369 not possible. When the shift lever is removed all you see are the cut slots in the top of the bar stock steel that is part of each shift fork. Tried that first time years ago. =nope. When you pull the shift lever you will see that you can’t see beyond them into the two shafts with gears in the case.
I can't manage to put on this cover for two days, I watch the video, I do the same steps, but there is something I missed, it doesn't work, maybe you said that in the video, but I don't know your language.
The bottom gears need to be in alignment with the forks. That’s tough. Jack up the back wheels and make sure everything spins free. I learned to be patient with this as I had that over on/ off so many times I was sick of it When it sets in place right it will just “plop” like it did in the video. You may have to use a long screw driver or other tool to push the gears around when it’s lifted just enough to look in.
@@weaversstonehousefarm As you said, I lifted the rear wheels into the air, adjust the gears, did what I could not do in 2 days, in 2 tries, thank you very much, may God give her whatever is good.
@@weaversstonehousefarm The trick is the slot for the reinforcement fork at the bottom, I can adjust the top ones anyway, I hope it won't be needed again, but I don't think I will have much difficulty in the next trips.
@Abigail Rice not sure. Can you get it to freewheel? I show that in one of my other videos that is part of this as it was my final check. Whenever mine locked up my clutch still worked so I could start it. It would only move in reverse. I couldn’t get the shifter to move. Yours sounds possibly like a different problem. Even if my PTO is engaged mine will Start w/o pushing the clutch. Sorry not sure what your problem may be. I’d pull the shifter cover and have a look if you exhaust all other ideas.
@Abigail Rice mine was free wheeling w/o the clutch pushed and the rear wheels off the ground. It’s tough to get the gears on the top and bottom shaft in proper alignment and then be able to get the top plate/shifter forks all in just right. I have had mine apart so many time to figure this out. just take your time and try it again. So like in the video when it all went together just right I had to pull it the shifter off and black RTV the gasket area. I got that wrong a couple times when trying to get it back in just right. It might be easier to remove the steering wheel to give you a straighter shot at putting the shifter assembly in.
Great information and thanks for sharing your knowledge on this. Helped a bunch, especially how to get the shifter control into neutral. Alignment of gears very important. Also learned to use inspection camera with snake light to see how the forks align into the slots, and need to move slightly. Another thing that helped was use long bolts, so could lift shifter top straight up then look under with the snake light camera, and make sure completely aligned. Goes straight down without movement forward or backward. Took me 4 times and the stud and camera helped... Thanks again
Phil. Super glad this helped you. That’s a great idea to use Long bolts and an awesome little camera. It takes a little while to get them lined up and it can be tricky.
Thank you so much for taking the time to make these videos, My last assembly on my 424 with the same shifter is a great success. And you answered my questions as well, Bravo! on a side note, while I had it apart I replaced all the balls and detent springs in the top, she shifts like a new one now.
Mike Young I am glad it helped you. I figured I needed to make a video so I would remember how to do it. Having the springs in the top with the balls are key to keeping it shifting smooth.
Can the transmission shift gear handle / top plate be removed without having to remove the rear axle cover??
Unfortunately no. Tried many different ways. They all lead to no. It’s a less than ideal design for that top shifter plate as you can’t get it out from underneath the hydraulic control piece(straight down between your legs when seated.) if you leave the one back bolt out you can kinda lift the cover just enough to aggravate you. For 1-2 years that’s the way I would sneak in a custom bent piece of 1/8” or so rod. After many trials to get the gears in alignment I could do it with this very custom tool. Till one time I pried really hard on the cast cover and snapped a piece of it off and got metal into my eye that had to be drilled out.
So the answer is no. It’s sucks to pull the hydraulic sump/assembly but it’s the only way.
On the happy side. My eye is fine and the shifter/gears have stayed operational since the elongation to the shifter plate holes and the grinding on the shifter fork.
@@weaversstonehousefarm Have you tried just removing the shift lever and then lining up the the transmission through the hole with a pry bar or heavy screw driver, going in the through top of the transmission cover that the shift lever goes through? Thank you for the fast reply.
@@clearlake2369 not possible. When the shift lever is removed all you see are the cut slots in the top of the bar stock steel that is part of each shift fork. Tried that first time years ago. =nope. When you pull the shift lever you will see that you can’t see beyond them into the two shafts with gears in the case.
I can't manage to put on this cover for two days, I watch the video, I do the same steps, but there is something I missed, it doesn't work, maybe you said that in the video, but I don't know your language.
The bottom gears need to be in alignment with the forks. That’s tough. Jack up the back wheels and make sure everything spins free.
I learned to be patient with this as I had that over on/ off so many times I was sick of it
When it sets in place right it will just “plop” like it did in the video. You may have to use a long screw driver or other tool to push the gears around when it’s lifted just enough to look in.
@@weaversstonehousefarm As you said, I lifted the rear wheels into the air, adjust the gears, did what I could not do in 2 days, in 2 tries, thank you very much, may God give her whatever is good.
@@Kurtdereli81 it will take ALOT more than two tries. Unless you get lucky
@@weaversstonehousefarm The trick is the slot for the reinforcement fork at the bottom, I can adjust the top ones anyway, I hope it won't be needed again, but I don't think I will have much difficulty in the next trips.
@@Kurtdereli81 yes it’s the bottom ones that are the hardest to get in alignment. I had a lot of trouble with the front bottom one
🇮🇪👍👋
I’m glad this helped you.
@Abigail Rice not sure. Can you get it to freewheel? I show that in one of my other videos that is part of this as it was my final check.
Whenever mine locked up my clutch still worked so I could start it. It would only move in reverse. I couldn’t get the shifter to move.
Yours sounds possibly like a different problem.
Even if my PTO is engaged mine will
Start w/o pushing the clutch.
Sorry not sure what your problem may be.
I’d pull the shifter cover and have a look if you exhaust all other ideas.
@Abigail Rice mine was free wheeling w/o the clutch pushed and the rear wheels off the ground. It’s tough to get the gears on the top and bottom shaft in proper alignment and then be able to get the top plate/shifter forks all in just right. I have had mine apart so many time to figure this out. just take your time and try it again. So like in the video when it all went together just right I had to pull it the shifter off and black RTV the gasket area. I got that wrong a couple times when trying to get it back in just right.
It might be easier to remove the steering wheel to give you a straighter shot at putting the shifter assembly in.