Removing the AIS stops the back-firing or popping sound when you change gears or decelerate. I would assume that it works on the stock exhaust as well. As for the air box flapper mod with stock exhaust. I believed that you will get a power gain. But that power gain cannot be compared to a full system aftermarket exhaust. With the stock exhaust and EXUP valve. It might cut u some power because it is very heavy and the EXUP block your exhaust flow too
In other words, you will be releasing fuel in gas form into the environment. The AIS device is some kinda valve which opens and close to supply air. The ABFM makes a huge difference. Like, from stock exhaust to your current racing exhaust...u feel a significant difference....then u get used to it...it doesnt give u any feel anymore...
i had a hell of a time putting that 1/8 plug on the vacuum line nobby thingy. Great video man, only one on youtube showing how to actually do it. all these damn "devices" lol
@Nelonen92 Bro, AIS removal will eliminate the back firing/popping sound completely. Since a combustion needs 3 elements to work; fuel, heat and oxygen. Removing the AIS means stop supplying air(oxygen)from your airbox to the hot exhaust manifold(heat source), unburn fuel from your cylinder flowing out to the exhaust manifold(fuel in gas form)
If you install a servo motor relay (from graves racing) it takes care of the error code. Also, you get better throttle response if you adjust the TPI ahead to 19-20 (check diagnostics on the computer)
@UnionOfTheMind No, however removing the Exup servo on your exhaust will. You can buy a premade resistor for about $60 or you can make one yourself for under 5.
Heya, thanks for the great video. Do you know if it makes any difference if you do the flapper mod like you did, or if you entirely remove the top of the box? Does the removal of the AIS increase power, and does it entirely remove the popping sound, because I have a yoshimura pipe on my WRX and Im rather fond of the popping sound :P
Does the engine light come on when you remove all that equipment and leave it all unplugged? Doesn't the computer monitor the engine electrical system and throws a code when something significant happens like loss of resistance or signal?
@jjaacky otr ard 16k, full system including papers is ard $1070. Everything is in stock except the handlebar and some accessories including the exhaust
@Nelonen92 Bro, so long you stop supplying air to the part beside the exhaust port, it stops firing. But, the chrome metal pipe, the rubber pipe and the "actuator" will be bcome redundant. Besides, its quite heavy...so if you remove it...(I actually felt the front steering a bit lighter...maybe I am too sensitive to feel that little difference...hehe) When you hv removed....can let us know if it works?
What did you say about the little vacuum line going from the actuator to the throttle body in the last part of the video? Can you just tape the end and zip tie it? Thanks.
@only1uv9m I might do a ram air duct on the side panel at the end of the year when I hv my PC installed.....that ram air duct...I am gng to cut the plastic and position the ram air duct at an angle which is lesser prone to water splash...wonder how it would be like...its just an idea for now
What about Oxygen sensor on your WRX? AIS removal will 100% affect A/F ratio reads from O2 sensor. So how this will affect FI? Does this means that FI will lean to fit factory A/F ratio (about 14 for Catalytic converter)?
@@LaurenceGough Yep, from what I found, O2 is dumb, not used for mid-high RPM. Anyway, I am using FMF exhaust and FMF PowerCommander to make A/F rich for active driving.
@@SashaDovbnia. Thanks. yeah its just narrowband I think it only works at low throttle and idle. But a lot of my riding also is below 20-30% throttle so I want to refit an O2 sensor to see if it will get better mpg when cruising. I think ais won't matter as that seems to work only on decel? It relies on negative air pulses in exhaust to work, I can't imagine there being that much negative air pressure when riding. The manual backs that up and says mostly when not riding / accelerating ais works.
@@LaurenceGough I'd avoid 20-30% throttle cruising, as its too low for this engine, plus will definitely cause more vibration. Only stock exhaust flapper will help you to achieve what you want, but trade engine wear&tear.
@only1uv9m Just thought of something as I was watchin this video again, If you only do the part at 3:30 in which you place a blocking aluminum plate to the hose that goes to the cylinder, would that do the trick without having to strip out the other parts?
If you remove the entire top box....my worry is that its easier for water to go in...(if there is too much water).....I hv extra dirt wheels which i used on tis bike....doesnt do any good if the opening is too big...
@only1uv9m Then if you do the ABFM now...u will get increased power again(without touching/alter the inside of the engine).....tis mod is good because it doesn't hurt ur engine..n its free of charge...for extra gain power n response...it doesnt affects fuel consumption as well... I am running stock ECU and I am satisfied with the performance.....I will be changing to PC 5 at the end of the year....believed that its gng to be a completely new feeling again....
Please please please could you translate in french this vidéo for me i would Like to realize this modification on my bike but i dont understund your english or write it in inglish in a commenter
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Removing the AIS stops the back-firing or popping sound when you change gears or decelerate. I would assume that it works on the stock exhaust as well.
As for the air box flapper mod with stock exhaust. I believed that you will get a power gain. But that power gain cannot be compared to a full system aftermarket exhaust. With the stock exhaust and EXUP valve. It might cut u some power because it is very heavy and the EXUP block your exhaust flow too
In other words, you will be releasing fuel in gas form into the environment. The AIS device is some kinda valve which opens and close to supply air.
The ABFM makes a huge difference. Like, from stock exhaust to your current racing exhaust...u feel a significant difference....then u get used to it...it doesnt give u any feel anymore...
i had a hell of a time putting that 1/8 plug on the vacuum line nobby thingy. Great video man, only one on youtube showing how to actually do it. all these damn "devices" lol
@Nelonen92 Bro,
AIS removal will eliminate the back firing/popping sound completely. Since a combustion needs 3 elements to work; fuel, heat and oxygen.
Removing the AIS means stop
supplying air(oxygen)from your airbox to the hot exhaust manifold(heat source), unburn fuel from your cylinder flowing out to the exhaust manifold(fuel in gas form)
thank you for taking the time to make this video. it was very helpful
VERY HELPFULL BUT DID YOU BLOCK OF THE VACUM /VENT PIPE ?
If you install a servo motor relay (from graves racing) it takes care of the error code. Also, you get better throttle response if you adjust the TPI ahead to 19-20 (check diagnostics on the computer)
TPI - does it mean the Throttle Position ?
@UnionOfTheMind No, however removing the Exup servo on your exhaust will. You can buy a premade resistor for about $60 or you can make one yourself for under 5.
Thank you for the vid.... Easy to do and helps with throttle response..
no error codes will happen.
@Nelonen92 Also, does the AIS mod require you to have a power commander?
Hello, could you tell me what happens to my bike does not operate esta FLAPER , because my bike lacks Reaction ! Thanks sorry for my English !
Is it possible to do and a i s delete on a 2018 xt250 it's popping after put it on aftermarket header pipe and k&n air filter
Heya, thanks for the great video. Do you know if it makes any difference if you do the flapper mod like you did, or if you entirely remove the top of the box? Does the removal of the AIS increase power, and does it entirely remove the popping sound, because I have a yoshimura pipe on my WRX and Im rather fond of the popping sound :P
Good video.
Thank you for the effort.
Best regards from Sweden.
Does the engine light come on when you remove all that equipment and leave it all unplugged? Doesn't the computer monitor the engine electrical system and throws a code when something significant happens like loss of resistance or signal?
great video man. very clean bike, love it!
@jjaacky
otr ard 16k, full system including papers is ard $1070. Everything is in stock except the handlebar and some accessories including the exhaust
Thanks for this video, lots of help!
MrMasterJones bnknm. I zkonsnishsnaiiafgAisjsns wn. Jaz n/@ askaspanaba snz
@Nelonen92 Bro, so long you stop supplying air to the part beside the exhaust port, it stops firing. But, the chrome metal pipe, the rubber pipe and the "actuator" will be bcome redundant. Besides, its quite heavy...so if you remove it...(I actually felt the front steering a bit lighter...maybe I am too sensitive to feel that little difference...hehe)
When you hv removed....can let us know if it works?
@only1uv9m Sure thing, Ill be trying it out once I get an aluminium plate somewhere, because I dont have the tools to make it myself.
What did you say about the little vacuum line going from the actuator to the throttle body in the last part of the video? Can you just tape the end and zip tie it? Thanks.
Damn there are a lot of "devices" on this bike!
@only1uv9m I might do a ram air duct on the side panel at the end of the year when I hv my PC installed.....that ram air duct...I am gng to cut the plastic and position the ram air duct at an angle which is lesser prone to water splash...wonder how it would be like...its just an idea for now
What about Oxygen sensor on your WRX? AIS removal will 100% affect A/F ratio reads from O2 sensor. So how this will affect FI? Does this means that FI will lean to fit factory A/F ratio (about 14 for Catalytic converter)?
Well, O2 here is narrow-wide, and used mostly at idle/warming up.
Did you ever find out about this? It seems AIS only works on decel? O2 sensor shouldn't be used then right?
@@LaurenceGough Yep, from what I found, O2 is dumb, not used for mid-high RPM. Anyway, I am using FMF exhaust and FMF PowerCommander to make A/F rich for active driving.
@@SashaDovbnia. Thanks. yeah its just narrowband I think it only works at low throttle and idle. But a lot of my riding also is below 20-30% throttle so I want to refit an O2 sensor to see if it will get better mpg when cruising. I think ais won't matter as that seems to work only on decel? It relies on negative air pulses in exhaust to work, I can't imagine there being that much negative air pressure when riding. The manual backs that up and says mostly when not riding / accelerating ais works.
@@LaurenceGough I'd avoid 20-30% throttle cruising, as its too low for this engine, plus will definitely cause more vibration. Only stock exhaust flapper will help you to achieve what you want, but trade engine wear&tear.
@viouviou56 Better throttle response, losing overall bike weight, and getting rid of the popping sound the exhaust makes.
hi edmund, can i do this on a 2015 wr250r ? tq.
what is the gain of this modification
@only1uv9m Just thought of something as I was watchin this video again, If you only do the part at 3:30 in which you place a blocking aluminum plate to the hose that goes to the cylinder, would that do the trick without having to strip out the other parts?
what exhaust is that????!!!!! Regards!!!!
If you remove the entire top box....my worry is that its easier for water to go in...(if there is too much water).....I hv extra dirt wheels which i used on tis bike....doesnt do any good if the opening is too big...
Great video.... Thank you so much for sharing.
Where did you get your mirrors?
Hello very thanks 🙏
whats the blue stuff ? i mean whats the propper name so i know what to ask for ( im planing on doing this ) thanks, great vid btw
very nice and creative im trying to get one like this
great video! thanks!
@only1uv9m Okay, thanks for the info. Ill have to look into removing my AIS in the near future then
@only1uv9m Then if you do the ABFM now...u will get increased power again(without touching/alter the inside of the engine).....tis mod is good because it doesn't hurt ur engine..n its free of charge...for extra gain power n response...it doesnt affects fuel consumption as well...
I am running stock ECU and I am satisfied with the performance.....I will be changing to PC 5 at the end of the year....believed that its gng to be a completely new feeling again....
Good job!
Please please please could you translate in french this vidéo for me i would Like to realize this modification on my bike but i dont understund your english or write it in inglish in a commenter
does removing the AIS cause an error code?
yes, bypass with this link wr250rforum.forumotion.com/t627-cheapest-diy-servo-bypass
+Jesse Montani No
How did u fix the error code on your speedometer
wr250rforum.forumotion.com/t627-cheapest-diy-servo-bypass
Thanks, I my error code is err-1 which means no signal from ecu.. Don't know what it could be
try disconnecting the battery for about 30 secs and see if that clears the code
Ok thanks I'll try and let you know
I tried what you said and still have err-1 on speedo
Its a Delta Barrel4 from Japan. :)