How to: Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) on WOVEN DOLMANS. EASY hands on!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.ย. 2024
- Woven dolmans are super easy to sew and can showcase our nice fabrics. They are harder to fit, though, when the bust size is larger than a B cup size. If you are puzzled about how to do a FBA on these styles, the puzzled feeling can be long gone!
I am sharing different scenarios, how to mark your apex on the pattern and after a few cuts, you can take your pattern from a B to the cup size you need. A practical video with graphics and hands on pattern modification footage. Come along!
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Scenarios:
1. Woven dolman B cup with a large sleeve opening: making it a C cup and re angling the dart.
2. Woven dolman B cup with a smaller sleeve opening: Making it a C cup and raising the dart.
3. Woven dolman C cup with a dart in the pattern already: making it a D cup and the dart is correct for the apex height
4. A shirt or blouse with button down feature: the button references are the center of the garment.... for measuring and marking the apex
5. A woven dolman B cup WRAP BODICE with tucks at the waist: making is a C cup and adjusting the tucks at the waist.
*NOTE: add 1/2" PER extra bust cup size you are adding to your base pattern.
Example: from a B cup pattern, you want to make it a DD (three more cup sizes)..... add 1 1/2"
Example: If your base pattern is a D cup and you want to make it a DDD cup (F)...add 1 1/2"
Example: If your base pattern is a C cup and you want to make it a D cup.... add 1/2"
*NOTE: don't choose your size based on your high bust measurement.... by finding that high bust number on the FULL BUST column. Take away 2" from the full bust measurement on the size chart to see where your high bust is. (for B cup patterns)
Some patterns mentioned:
Elodie wrap dress (Closet Core). Video on my channel is here: • NEW Elodie wrap dress ...
Itch to Stitch has woven Dolmans with cup sizes and darts and they fit amazing:
Melrose top & dress (Itch to Stitch). Video on my channel is here: • Melrose top Itch to St...
Affiliate link: itch-to-stitch...
Chemainus top (Itch to Stitch). Video on my channel is here: • Half Button Placket Si...
Affiliate link: itch-to-stitch...
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I have been sewing since I was about 10 years old - my mother taught me! Now at 67, I am still learning. Fitting issues are a primary area that I am attempting to master, especially as my body changes with age. Gone are the days when a pattern fits without alterations! Your videos have taught me so much, and you do a wonderful job of teaching so many techniques! Thank you!
Your videos are awesome!!!! I love your teaching style. It’s simple, straightforward and very detailed without being over the top. Your visuals are perfect. I’ve followed them on two occasions for FBA on different garments and everything was perfect the first time. I’ve watched so many videos, you are the only one I truly understand. You don’t drag things out, you get straight to the point with the visuals and you don’t have to over explain. Bless you, thank you 🙏🏽 😊❤
I think I'm just gonna have to make you your own category in my permanent library. You are quickly becoming my sewing yogi. Thank you for all the things I'm learning.
I’m glad the videos are helpful for you :)!
Well explained and illustrated Karina. I enjoyed watching it. There's been a great deal of effort made by you and n this. I'm sure many sewists will appreciate it. 👍😍
Thank you so much 😊. I had fun doing these :)
Hello, it s so USEFULL and accurate, it saves my life , so many thanks 🙏 ❤️kisses from France 🇫🇷
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent explanations and illustrations, than you!
I’m glad you liked it :)
Thank you Karina. Much appreciated your well explained video. xx
I really like the way you explain things. You make them simple and straight forward
Great video to learn full bust adjustment. Thank you.
Your very welcome 😃
Thank you dear Karina , finally it makes sense to me ! Thanks to you !
Appreciate yr efforts .
Genius! Thank you so much for investing so much effort and care to help your followers create better fitting garments. Take care of yourself.
Thank you Karina for a really comprehensive tutorial for FBAs! Very much appreciated 👍😁
I’m glad you liked it :)
Great info as always!
You’re very welcome 😉
Very informative, thanks Karina. X
You’re very welcome 😉
A really thorough tutorial! Xx
Took me days :) and I sorted my patterns, so win :)
@@LiftingPinsandNeedles It's really appreciated Karina. You put so much time and detail into these vlogs and they are super helpful. Xxx
I reviewed this tutorial again after purchasing the Elodie dress pattern from Closet Core and I am so grateful that you actually included one of your FBA (option 5) using that pattern. Now I'm excited about making this dress. Thank you again!!!
You make it look so easy! Thanks!
It can be done in 2 mins once you get the hang of it :)
Thank you. Accommodating my bust by making bigger sizes just makes me look square. Trying to make my own clothes so that they look better on me. It’s a steep learning curve. (Curve)Excuse the pun.
Excellent tutorial! I am puzzling over a princess seam blouse with dolman seams from the 1980’s...so yes, I believe your chart of B cup sizing must apply. But that is not my problem. My problem is the narrow waistline! With front and side panels I’m going to attempt an FBA on the side panel to add an inch to the waistline. Right now, tired as I am, I would just cut out a larger size but not know it will fit at the waist and be too big on the top. Just so you can get an idea it is simplicity 8299 from 1987!!!! Thank you so much for all your hard work!
Just what I needed for a pattern that I kept putting to one side. Very valuable content thank you Karina.
I’m glad it helps :)
Loved this video Karina. To answer your question all of your videos are easy to understand for me.
Thank you so much 😊. I try hard and prepare in advance to make them simplified.
I am watching all of your videos! Such good information, I totally understand all that you are saying!
Thank you so much. That makes me happy. I try my best to simplify everything:)
Thank you Karina. I love the way you’ve explained all the options. I always need to make an additional alteration to the pattern, the petite adjustment. I really do appreciate the patterns with the bust option.
I’m made longer everywhere so I do the opposite and add. I don’t mind length adjustments and know I’ll always get a better fit than RTW :)
Fabulous as always. Thank you.
You’re very welcome 😊
I am a B cup so never have to do bust adjustments but this will come in handy for when i am sewin gfor other people, thank you :-)
I rarely do them too, but If I really want the best fit, I will. My dart for a C cup is tiny :)
This was very helpful. I kind of understand now how to do the adjustment for a dolman sleeve, but I'll watch the video again :)
I’m sewing a few tops and will show them soon. The fit is so much better now :)
@@LiftingPinsandNeedles Looking forward to watching the video when it's up :)
Just the “how to “ I need. Thank you so much.
I’m
Glad it’ll helpful :)
This really solved a lot of problems for me. I have been hesitating because I just knew my project wouldn't work out in this style. Thank you so much.
This series is so needed. You did a great job explaining all of this!
Excellent instructions very very well explained and demonstrated. Look forward to watching many more videos from you.
Welcome and I’m glad you enjoyed this one! There’s over 400 videos here and I post 10-12 per month 😀
Quality video.
Thank you so much 😊
Brilliant!! I have struggled with this alteration and will definitely use this method next time!!
Hi Karina! I've been with binge watching you for the past 3 to 4 hours! You have great information and I'm so glad that you explain the full bust adjustment the way you did! I'm going to attempt to make my first thought is block and I wanted to know do you have a video on how to prepare one?
th-cam.com/video/rCgIVCWMFk0/w-d-xo.html it’s a very old video and I’d caution on the use of a block. It’s useful if you want to design your own styles and learn about your own body but it’s not useful to use to compare or overlay over other patterns.
Thank you for a very clear video. I have done FBA in the past very badly. I will try again!
Thank you so much for this. I have struggled with how to do an FBA on these kinds of tops. Now I’m very excited about looking through my pattern stash and pulling one out and getting a great fit.
That was really well explained and extremely helpful! Thank you.
Read information as always. Just a question about needles, my new bit stuff when I'm using elastic to put in the waist band. And you suggestion on what type of meal I should use when I am sewing elastic in?
Thank you for this very informative video. My next pattern is now going to be one with a Dolman sleeve.
Thank you so much for this great tutorial.
You’re very welcome 😉
Dear Karina, I am very partial to your videos and rather fond of you!
I do request , made with all respect, would you mind pulling your hair back when you’re taping? Many of us, I think, enjoy studying your entire sewn piece.
I’ve had this comment a few times over the last couple of years. Maybe 3-4 times. I cannot tie up my hair or even use a headband because anything that puts weight on my scalp triggers terrible migraines. I’ve been dealing with this for years. I really can’t tie up my hair.
Wonderfully useful information. I will definitely use. Thank you.
Great job, you.made it very easy. I am going to try it out.
Thank you for showing, very helpful :-)
This video came at the perfect time! I’m making the sleeveless Matcha top from sew liberated and I’m finding the bust is not my measurements so I will follow this to the tee 🤣 but I’m also dealing with the adjustments coming from the gathers at the neck thank you Karina as always your videos are game changers🥰🥰
I have made the matcha top according to shoulder measurements. I made no adjustment for my full bust and it is tent like. It’s in the naughty corner just now.
you are so funny karina i liked the cat lol
H ha to cover my bra 😃
How did you read my mind? I need this right now. 😀
Awesome!
Thank you so much! I have a DD cup and dartless dolman patterns look like a giant sloppy tent on me if I try and make a size large enough for my bust.
It’s a struggle with dart-less tops, I hope this helps 😃
hi karina if the bodice front piece is cut on the fold do you have to do the fba on the other side too thank you love your sewing vlogs
You do the adjustment to your paper pattern. You put it on the fold and both sides will be adjusted the same. Patterns have half of the front on the paper.
Thank you very much wish me luck@@LiftingPinsandNeedles
It's almost as if cups F-J etc don't even exist. I wear a 70/75H. Tiny ribs huge bazookas. Help!
Do the Pattern Emporium patterns have a full cup option built in with them?
Only some of the woven patterns.
Would you use this same process for a knit dolman?
I just saw your comment at the end. Another video
Please HELP! I did a dolman FBA and my front bodice and it doesn’t match my back length. No adjustments needed for back. Did a 2” FBA on front. HB is 39”. FB is 45, 6” difference - 2” for B draft = 4”/2 = 2 FBA. What am I doing wrong? I did angle the bust dart created toward BP, as it was angled down. I am desperate for help!😢 I’ve started over 4 times.
There must be a step you are doing that’s giving you length in the side seam. That’s not supposed to happen. No matter the size of the dart, when closed, it will always retain the original length to the side seam. Are you lengthening the Center front only in the Center? If you are lengthening it the whole way, that could explain why your top is longer
Only lengthened left side. May I send pictures?
@@carolynsmith5161 I have to clarify that I don’t do free or paid consulting. You can send me a photo but I can only reply once. I’m swamped with individualised requests like yours and I cannot possibly do this constantly.
I understand! I’m just totally frustrated and cannot figure out where I’ve gone wrong. I know I’ve watched your video at least ten times. Going to start over again. The dress is V1544 and I’m struggling to fit me! Thanks for the video.
I've probably got this wrong lol! But would making up a toile not be easier? Then after transferring the measurements to the pattern, it would always be there.
Are you referring to what measurement?
@@LiftingPinsandNeedles Just the whole FBA. As I say, I probably don't understand but I was thinking if I made up a toile, I could get the fit of the bust that way?
But I don't have your experience and so I'm probably wrong. LOL!
You won’t get the fit of the bust with the toile. You will see how badly it fits but you can’t fix it when it’s already made. The toile could help you mark your apex point, but other than that, you can’t generate a dart or add extra width to the toile.
@@LiftingPinsandNeedles Thanks for your reply. Looks like I'll need to go back to the drawing board 'cos I thought a toile could be added to or cut away and draped to get any fit. Thanks for all the inspiration you give.
For a visual, take me for example. I drafted a bodice meant for a B cup to my measurements, but I am a DDD. I made the toile anyway. The fitting didn't go well to say the least. Lesson learned, always do my fba.