Replacing Transmission Fluid On 07 13 Toyota Tundra! **How To Check FLUID LEVEL With NO Dipstick!?**
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ต.ค. 2021
- Replacing Transmission Fluid On 07 13 Toyota Tundra! *How To Check FLUID LEVEL With NO Dipstick!?*
Literally they are just trying to make it so that the average person can NOT work on their own vehicle......What's wrong with a dipstick tube?! Oh right....NOTHING!
#toyota #tundra #DIYmechanics - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
I love how informative this video is! So excited to see the new shop!!
Thanks brook! Appreciate it
Great video. Clear, concise, and I liked the commentary on the difficulty in serving modern vehicles.
Appreciate it! Thank you
Solid video, thanks! Gotta say, I love my tundra. 2007 with 265k miles. It still runs like new. It's insane.
Toyota is the way to go! That and Honda’s are the only things I recommend when people ask me what they should get for daily drivers
I just bought an 07 Tundra with just 120k miles last night. I love it! It's been very well taken care of
No joke I had a Hyundai Sonata for 3 years if 100k miles is the life of the Hyundai I can see why my Sonata starting having issues around 70k miles
Badass video man and congrats on a second location thats shop is sick.🙌🏻
Can’t wait man!
Thanks man! Simple and to the point!!! Much appreciated!!!
No problem I’m glad it helped you!
Straight to the point awesome info, subbed.
Thanks man! I’ll try to do more like this, we do do a lot of vlogs on the channel too
Great content. Some of the best I've seen for diy vehicle repair. Thank you..
Appreciate the kind words!
“Some of the best I’ve seen”
Hahahahaha
Great vid subbed. Keep it coming !
Thanks man! A lot of what’s on the channel is more auto vlog type stuff but I can try to throw more of these in from time to time. Appreciate it
Thank you very informative.Keep up the good work you answered my question.
Glad I could help you Eric! More to come
@@shiftwrenchrepeat Great ! I'll be waiting for your next video.
My 2008 4x2 was hardshifting and after i did this it worked as good as new. 321xxx miles. Best video ever!.
Glad it helped you Daniel!
how’s it doing notes
@@MYRONone. sold it a few months ago but it was working good.
thanks for the video. I just did mine myself (and my 12yo) for the first time today. Really wasn't bad.
It’s not! Just stinks when ya don’t know the process. Glad it helped and ya got some father kiddo time!
Thanks for the informative video. Doing it myself this weekend on my 2007 sr5 5.7l. She’s at 407k now and keeps on trucking. 😊
Glad it could help you! My buddies 2010 5.7 is at about 390,000!
The amount of concise info here is off the charts, thanks a million!!
It appears ive got a bad leak on my transmission but noticed in the video when you overfilled the pan, the fluid leaks from the seams just above the bolts. Im noticing a good bit of dribble from just in the last week here however just today out of nowhere experienced multiple hard shudders from 1 to 2. Would you recommend a fluid change or straight to the mechanic? The leaking fluid appears to be good, light golden brown at worst & this trans was just replaced not 6 months ago
Thanks in advance for any tips
I’d make sure you’re not losing too much from the pan gasket, but I’d try a drain and fill, can’t hurt! Thanks for watching!
Subscribed ! Great video 👍🏼 clear and right to the point. Just got a 2011 sr5. My first Toyota. Love it so far. Only have 1 problem with a humming noise in front left at about 35mph. Hoping axle fixes it.
Thanks! Does it change when u turn?
@@shiftwrenchrepeat very minimal. It does seem to change when I put it in 4high. Oh and I already put all new rotors , brakes , calipers and tires. Was going to do those anyway. I bought a new left front hub and bearing and was going to put it on today but after I hacked it up and spun the wheel I’m not convinced it’s the bearing. Maybe axle / CV.
Thanks buddy for your time..
Hope it helped!
Hello young man,
I have a 2007 tundra 5.7 liter at approx 170 k from pulling a 22 ft fishing boat. Drain and fill make sense. Flushing sounds dangerous. Great video thanks. Stay safe bro and have a merry Christmas.
That’s what I would do! On most everything. Never had an issue. 170k on a tundra you’re just breaking it in ;) Merry Christmas to u as well!
Excellent video! Thanks for sharing. Can’t wait to see the new shop. I have a 07 Tundra 5.7 SR5. I have big wheels and tires (35). I tow about 6k pounds of trailer and horses. I’m seeing my transmission temp gage rise up when I go through the in the only hills we have here in North Florida. Have you ever heard of installing transmission cooler? I bought one and was told by a friend, who is a mechanic, that it’s not possible to connect it. Have you ever installed an after market transmission cooler? Feel like making a video. LOL. Thanks for the video.
Shop is all enclosed now and insulated!! In the prius battery video from a few weeks back if u wana see it, slowly but surely!
Quite a few of them have trans coolers on them I’ve never seen an aftermarket one installed :/
Thank you!!
I have an 07 Tundra 5.7 w/ over 248k miles. I’m the second owner and bought it when it had 201k miles. The truck is great, rides great, healthy engine and all but the acceleration is pretty inconsistent. It has many days where it lags in acceleration. It has a detailed service history. I know the truck has had at least 2 trans fluid exchanges. The first one was with WS and the 2nd one was done with Type IV fluid (which is the wrong fluid). The second change was done at 182,420 miles from what I saw. I honestly don’t know if the mistake was caught before I purchased it but it seems like that could be causing the slight shifting issue I experience. It seems to hard shift out of first and be ok after that. Overall, it seems to lack a little throttle response and slower to get up to speed. Everything seemed perfect when I first got it but I believe they must have done a hard reset and the truck was much more powerful than it is now.
I had 3 drain and fills done since I had it with WS. It seems like I may have WS and Type IV fluid mixed together. I know most of the fluid is in the torque converter. What should I do if I’m in this situation?
That’s about all you can do fluid wise is drain and fill
I needed this video so bad😂
Hope it helped you!
A great "How to" video that everyone can relate to! You can save the used ATF, filter it, and mix 50/50 with acetone to make a cheap but effective penetrating oil!
Congrats on the new shop location. If you are already outgrowing your current place at home then that's a good problem to have!
Hey I’ve heard of that before too! I’ve also heard of people mixing it with diesel to seal wood??
@shiftwrenchrepeat super great info I found the video on how to put Tundras in fluid check mode this is probably one of the easiest DIY fluid changes I ever done vs my 2 old P71 crown vics lmao
Hey at what operating temp do we do the level check? And are you saying it would be ok to add the 20oz of Lucas without letting any fluid out? Great video thanks man!
Great video
Thanks!
Hell yeah brother *CHeeRz*
Appreciate ya buddy!
Thanks for sharing. - take care
Hope it helps! Drop a sub!
@@shiftwrenchrepeat Thanks man.
@@shiftwrenchrepeat My friend has a 2014 Tundra w/ about 115,000 miles. Transmission has been acting up for a few months. He's got: P0894, & P2714, any advice?
Thanks for this video, clear and to the point. I have 114,000 mile 08, 5.7 Tundra and trans fluid was changed 6K ago at a reputable shop. I Pulled a 5,000lb camper thru Louisiana over terrible bumpy highway and had a P2757 code pop up 2x. I cleared the code. Past 500 miles had lots of hills and I've noticed a shudder in 4th and 5th gear at 1800-2300 rpm but, NO engine light. No slipping, and runs strong when hard on the gas. What do you think the shuddering could be?
Hard to say without seeing it myself, possible torque converter?
Check for cylinder misfire
You should stay in S4 when towing to keep the temps down right?
So. I did a filter change on my tundra yesterday and did the exact same thing you did for my level check, but then started over thinking things, so I searched TH-cam and found your video! Just wanted to verify that once it was to temp you pulled the check level plug while the engine is running? Thanks ahead of time for your answer!👍🏻
Yep! Always while running! I’m glad you found this and it helped you that’s what it’s all about! We got some really gnarly fun stuff coming to the channel here shortly! LOTS to film before the snow flies…..
I do a gentle flush, by removing cooler hose and start truck and let it pump out fluid. Pump out one liter, then replace. Repeat until fluid runs clean.
Not a bad idea
So, when you bring it up to temp, are you watching the trans temp gauge? Or engine coolant Guage? TIA, and awesome video!
Coolant temp, this one doesn’t have a trans temp but you could look at that data with a scan tool as well, I let it run for about 15 min first ect and have never had a problem! Hope this helps
@@shiftwrenchrepeat It did! Thank you so very much sir.
Good video
Appreciate it man!
According to All Data, the AC needs to be turned off when checking the transmission fluid level, I have no idea why but I noticed that your air conditioning was running in the video
Supposed to yes, lots of times at the dealer it wasn’t off for many of the techs including myself, and never had an issue ever
Thank you for the video. Is the process the same for 2007 Tundra that has the trans cooler?
Should be! Unless it’s a 4.7 could be a little different
@@shiftwrenchrepeat I’ve got the 5.7, I just watched a few different videos on the process. Some people are putting a grenade pin through the cooler nut and doing stuff with obd port.
Probably a dumb question but did you pour the whole quart of Lucas transmission conditioner, and then “top off” the rest of the measurement with the new transmission fluid? Also is it best to drain it when it’s cold? Thanks for the helpful video!
Yes I did! The Lucas and then the rest, although if you’re just adding the Lucas and not draining anything you can add that whole quart and it won’t hurt anything… yeah I’d do it cold less mess
Hey! Great video. Can you let me know what you consider operating temp?
I just always let the temp gauge get to the middle on the dash! That’s how we always did it at the dealer. Hope this helps you
Hey man! Nice video, I just bought a 2013 with 280k miles it was a one owner, the guy wasn’t too rough on it a lot of hwy miles, some light pulling. However, the ATF has never been changed and I was wondering if it was too late to do a drain and fill?
Nope! Drain and fill like this is always safe
@@shiftwrenchrepeat I just know putting in new fluid will clean any build up in it which could cause it to either stop up and burn up the clutches or over heat and burn up.
What process should I do, do this several times or? Any advice will help.
So you put back the same amount of trans fluid that came out but a little more. Then you warmed the truck up for 20 mins. While running, took out the hex key tiny hole and let it drain till it dribbled like yours did?
2013 4.6l work truck pkge
Yep! That’s it
Hey man, great video! What’s the clear fluid leaking near the pan?
Thanks appreciate it! Just ac condensation from the drain tube
@@shiftwrenchrepeat that’s what i figured but I couldn’t make sense of the location. Thanks dude!!
Thanks for the tutorial video. I now have confidence in changing my transmission fluid. Just one question. Does the transmission need to be at operating temperature when I drain the fluid?
No you can drain it cold
Awesome! Do you have any videos on the Tundra transmission solenoids?
I don’t :/
About to replace some solenoids and do a drain and fill this weekend. I have a 2011 5.7 with AB60E tow package with trans cooler. Just curious about proper temp for checking fluid. Have seen 115 to 130 and 99 to 111
Off the top of my head, I can’t remember the exact number…. I’d say around that 115 120 mark should be ok, honestly, if the vehicle is up to operating temp you should be Golden, for example. On modern Chrysler products there is a special dipstick with numbers on it that the dealers have, you’re instructed to use this SST (special service tool) (I know, crazy they don’t just have a dipstick…. But they don’t!) and then there is a chart that corresponds with the temp on the scanner and the markings on the dipstick, there is a “high” and “low” range as to why is acceptable according to the reading, so you have some wiggle room! Hope this helps you! Subscribe if you haven’t :)
Thar was an amazing video. Thanks
Glad it helped!
Drop a sub!
Great video but I have a question you don't replace the strainer? or filter? and why you didn't
You can but even just changing the fluid will help a ton, Toyota recommends changing the trans fluid every 60k but not the filter
I have a 2014 5.7 Tundra I just bought with 203k miles. I did three drain and fills in the last thousand miles just so I could get the fluid to a color that was decent. However, I do not know if it is at the right level. So you are saying I can just warm the truck, pull the check plug until I have a slow dribble just as you demonstrated and I am good to go? That would be such a relief! Can I use a temp gun on the pan and get it to 103 to 118F or something in that range or do you just run the truck and check it? I have been stressing about all the steps shown in other videos.
Thanks so much!
You can use a temp gun yep! Or warm it up for 15 min or so and you’ll be ok, I believe 14 was the first year of the different pan, if your pan is like in the video, the same steps apply, if it’s different however, (I explain in this video) there is no “check plug” and you have the nylon insert to deal with, but it is about the same process to check the level, just from one plug instead of two, the nylon insert just has to be taken out to DRAIN the fluid, to check with the “newer” style, you just pull the plug, leave the insert, and wait for a dribble
@@shiftwrenchrepeat So my 2014 has the exact same pan as the one you show here.
I warmed the truck, put a level to the oil pan and it was good, left the truck running in park, pulled the fluid check plug and drained 1.5 quarts. I could not find a temp gun so I used a thermometer from the kitchen and immediately stuck it in the oil as soon as it came out. The temp was 140f. I let it drain until it slowed way down just as you did here, I did not wait for it to stop.
Do you think that I should add a little back in since it was a little over in temp, or do you think it is good at this point?
Thanks!
Will this also help a transmission that is not going into drive? 2008 sr5 4x2. I have park, reverse (sometimes) and neutral but no drive. I was thinking the fluid level was low but not sure.
It sure sounds like a low fluid issue, (although obviously I can’t diagnose it through the phone lol) I would do this procedure, good luck!!
Lol mom bounced fast lol.
Lolol right!?
@@shiftwrenchrepeat another consideration is that dirt is kept out where it shouldn't be in the trans. Too as for me having dirt kept out of the transmission is important
I have a 2010 tundra 4x4 155,000 miles. Do you recommend the OEM transmission fluid only or is there just as good or better available?
Personally I would use the oem if you can!
So when you do all this fluid change you don’t have to put a paper clip or something to push in the transmission solenoid? Or When checking the fluid ? I have a 2012 tundra.
Don’t have to on a drain and fill, would want to with a pressurized flush of the system
Good video. I have 2007 Tundra 76000 miles. At about 300 miles on a trip felt clunk in rear. Next time abut same mileage happened again but noticed felt like engine died but did not. Happened third time but clunk got worse and barely got home. Dealer said bring in when it happens again but might not for another 300+ miles. Any thoughts?
Appreciate it! Subscribe if you haven’t already I’d greatly appreciate it. I don’t think that the engine dying and the clunk in the rear seem to be related, although it’s hard to say without seeing the vehicle for myself. It wouldn’t explain the dying, but I would have the u joints checked
Thanks so much for your reply. That is what my wife guessed. I do not want to buy another vehicle since I am 80 yrs old. Wish you were here in my town. Looking into how to subscribe. Thanks again.
I don’t recall hearing but how long do you recommend waiting before doing the change a second time?
If you mean for routine maintenance every 60,000 miles generally, if you mean to get even more dirty fluid out, then drive it around a few days and repeat the process, hope this helps!
Love the channel. I have a 2008 Tundra with 310k. Having tranny problems now. Just had S4 solenoid changed because it would not shift into 5/6 gear. That problem is fixed. Now, when I first start the truck, it has trouble getting into gear. Will move forward, but not full power. Will last about 3-4 minutes, then normal power and feels solid. Sometimes, as I accelerate, it has a revving issue about 30 mph. Revs up and down for about 30 seconds. Get through that, then drives normal the rest of the day. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Toyota dealer told me I needed a new tranny. Hoping they are wrong. Thanks.
Unfortunately it sort of sounds like it… hard to say without seeing it for myself, I would try doing the procedure in this video and maybe try a little of the Lucas stop slip, it’s good stuff, pay attention to the fluid condition you take out as well, clutch material metallic flakes ect. Hope this helps!
@@shiftwrenchrepeat where are you located?
Sounds like morning sickness
Change fluid add transeal treatment to soften the seals
Just did this should I be worried that I put in less than I took out? It started dribbling out the other hole with about half quart to go.
No as long as it was warmed up and came to a dribble you should be fine, unless you didn’t get that little straw/plug in all the way but it will stop
I bought a used Toyota tundra 5.7 currently it had 270000 miles. I don't know when the trasmition fluid was replaced . Do you recommend changing the fluid or leaving it alone? Thanks
I would trickle drain it just like I did here, just avoid the pressurized flush, and then from there trickle drain and replace at the appropriate intervals. Hope this helps!
My 2007 toyota tundra pops in gear when I shift and when I put it in R or D it doesn't go in gear. When I leave it in R or D and wait a min it pops in gear. Would that be low transmission fluid?
Always hard to tell without looking but that could be a symptom, you can use this video to check the fuild level as well
Nice video but I'm not a mechanic but I have started recently working on my tundra. The only thing I don't understand is why did you drain fluid out after putting the new fluid in?
Do u mean at the end when you let it dribble??
@@shiftwrenchrepeat yes
@@funridersusa transmission. Fluid expands when at temp. So to be sure it’s not too full you want to be sure that it’s warm and have the fluid check spill out any extra fluid that you don’t want in there
Recently got a 2012 tundra with 130,000 miles. no previous transmission service recorded. if it was yours would you still drain and fill? i've heard some people say to leave it alone
I 100% would. That’s the reason people drain and fill vs a pressurized flush, to avoid any issues with disrupting any potential debris ect. Perfectly safe to drain and fill, I 100% would do this process I show in the video
@@shiftwrenchrepeat I too have a 2012. Im tech savvy but its my first Tundra (obviously everything is not the same in automotive) and the process you just showed would work for mine? I dont have to wait until operating temp (which ive heard is about 20min of idle time)? I can do this method here and wait for that slight dribble then pop the check bolt back in?
JD lawn tractors are the same way. They say no owner serviceable. The transaxle does need an oil change every 200 hrs. Owners manual doesn't tell you that.
Yep Godda love it
There is a temp the trans needs to be, theres a mode you can put it in by playing with the key. Is there a reason you didnt show that? Honest question. thanks.
Never used it at all my years at the dealer, even when our FTS engineer reps would come around, just get it to operating temp and go from there with the steps, they never had us do that. Never had a problem ever.
So when you say you did a drain and fill a couple times to get the old fluid out, do you mean you drained it then pumped the old fluid back into transmission, then drained it back out?
No new fluid, and then do this process again
I think you mean no, use new fluid each time. Yw
My 5.7l 2007 tundra shifts hard while cold from park to 1st, but no issues after running a bit, could it be the seals?
Not likely, that’s not super common, it’s hard to say without seeing your truck but I’d try replacing the fluid with fresh stuff
My 2011 tundra 4.6l, just started not accelerating. Rpms go up but can't go past 2k. First thing it said was transmission fluid is low. Sound correct?
Very well could be
I just bought a twenty thirteen toyota Tundra with 188000 miles. It runs And shifts great. Transmission Has never been serviced, do you think i'm safe to do a drain and fill without messing up the transmission.
Yes if you do it like I did in this video, it will be just fine, the only time I’ve ever seen a fluid exchange wreck anything is when the fluid was SUPER bad and then you do a pressurized flush, if you do this you’ll be ok
Also congrats on the purchase it will serve you well, I got my good friend into a 2012 5.7 about 5 years ago and he’s got 340,000 on the clock with no major repairs! My brother in law has the older body style with the 4.7 that’s at 387,000. They’re great trucks! Keep up on services/routine maintenance and it will treat you well
Nice ,I replace the 3 sensor for code P0979 ,but the code came back I checked the wire the wire checked out but code is still there ,any advise? Thanks
The three sensor?
@@shiftwrenchrepeat no #3 solenoid, solenoid C
I have 07 toyota tundra 4x4 i have hard/slow shift 1 to 2 gear when is hot, its like big bump change after 3k rpm only (after 15 minutes driving) and sometimes i lost my 6 speed and need drive in 5 speed! 206 miles last tranny flush 35k miles ago
No codes or warning lights, any ideia?
Without seeing it it’s so hard to be able to say much, I would make sure your fluid level is accurate.
HEY MAN I HAVE THE SAME TRUCK. It kicks hard going into drive from park, u joints are ok, any clue what it can be?
Check the fluid level if you haven’t
@@shiftwrenchrepeat will do! I really apricate your reply. you could of just ignored me! im a back yard mechanic and this truck has me baffled.
my torque converter has been vibrateing then my reverse has gone out before that the transmission slip and speedotemer ben bouncing up and down please tell me that my tranny not messed up and fluid just need change i havent had truck long
Can’t hurt to try, hard to say without seeing it myself
Should I shift into all the gears while waiting for transmission to warm up?
No need
@@shiftwrenchrepeat I'm a little worried about to the filings and sludge on the magnets and bottom of the pan. Would it be better to drop the pan and clean it and the magnets?
Yeah you can if you want to.
My fill plug isn't a 24mm head, it has an allen key in the top of it.
What year? Are u sure you’re not looking at the differential? Should be a 24mm
What kind of fluid did you use?
BG synthetic atf crosses over with the Toyota fluid.
About to do this on my 2008 with 210,000 miles
That’s how I’d do it on that!
If you do a drain and fill you will need to do it a dozen times before it’s all new. Still works ok.
yeah you’re not going to get it all out
@@shiftwrenchrepeat
Maybe after 20 changes… lol
How do I know if my Tundra takes the WS ATF fluid?
It’ll say on the 24mm fill plug
what type of atf fluid is that please
The stuff I used was universal BG ATF
Is this process the same on a 4wd tundra?
This one is 4x4
Does the 2008 tundra have a transmission dip stick ?
No
What are you talking about my 2017 Tundra has the check plug. You need to make that correction
Could have miss spoke, at some point around there they changed the pan and got rid of it
What was the operating temperature?
Just middle of the gauge
Why u didn't change transmission filter
Not recommended by Toyota, and this was just to highlight the drain and fill procedure. 8 years working for Toyota never changed one and never had an issue whatsoever. Hope this helps
At 7:30 do you have to have the engine on to wait for the dribble or can it be off?
Read through the comments and found the answer. Appreciate you…. I’ve tried unsuccessfully at 3 different mechanics to get the fluid/filter changed but it hasn’t worked out so I’m going to do it myself
I can definitely See whwre it’s a confusing process if you’re not used to it, I just did a ton of them when I was wrenching for Toyota. Now I’m on my own. Glad it helped you!
I’ve drained and filled it 3 times now. At first the ATF was black as used oil. Now it’s looking like dark soda with a red hue…..the red really shows as it’s pouring out. Truck is shifting a lot better with barely any grind. Originally it grinder hard around 40-45 mph and when going into OD.
2010 Tundra 4x2 4.6L SR5 w/ tow package ~163k miles.
Thanks for the video
*edit….wouldn’t even call it a grind now….just a slight vibration if I baby it. Basically I’m trying to get to grind again but it won’t…..previously it’d grind unless I gunned it (3-4K rpm) up to 55 mph
The forbidden soup.
What oem fluid does it use?
WS
@@shiftwrenchrepeat what is ws??
@@poohbearkt23 WS is 'World Standard'. You can look for 'Toyota ATF WS'
So im confused, how do i check the tran fluid level?
Warm up the truck and pull that check plug while idling, if it dribbles its good, if nothing comes out it’s low, and if it’s a steady stream it’s over full.
@@shiftwrenchrepeat ty so much
How did you know when operating temperature was?
You can use a scan tool with live data, but usually just go by the gauge
@@shiftwrenchrepeat what till is it there that you know is reliable? Doing this on my tundra and kinda nervous lol.
I’ve never seen the gauge be off on one of these. Even if the gauge is off, let it warm up and idle for 15 min and you’ll be just fine
Toyota tries to say the fluid is lifetime I believed under normal operations. The question is who's lifetime?
Hey man haven’t seen a comment from you in a while! I’d never leave a fluid in that long
It may be “lifetime”, but the lifetime will be shorter!
OK but what's the benefit for not being able to check the level without draining it?
If you just remove the check plug, it’ll only dribble a little and you know it’s ok, if it shoots out a steady stream it was overfilled, if nothing comes out, add till there’s a stream, then wait for the dribble and put the check plug back in. Hope this helps!
You don’t need to drain any fluid to check the level, he was replacing some of his fluid and filling. To check the level just remove the Alan bolt on the pan(not the drain bolt) and if a little fluid trickles out it is full
I've owned two tundras a 2020 and 2010 both have a jolt between 1st and 2nd ether that's how the transmission is or I got both duds lol
I know they can feel a little abrupt and snappy
@@shiftwrenchrepeat what transmission fluid did you use again mines a 4.0 2010
I believe that would be WS
Bro mine. Drips water off the tranny pan just like that one I never could under stand it
Just the AC drain!
What city and town are you in ?
I’m in minnesota
Dang way too far. What's a ball park on the price for this?
Just to change fluid? I’d say around 250.00 with quality fluid and someone who knows what they’re doing
Thank you for your time, brother 🙏
You can flush a Tundra transmission with high millage, those trans have a great clutch pack, the only thing you have to do is rub a strong magnet on the solenoids screen to remove metal shavings, usually metal shavings get in your solenoids and get them clogged and they stop working... the flush is good to clean the valve body channels.
Also to check the fluid level, you NEED to check it once the transmission is warm...at 107-115 degrees, ATF expand when hot (this is why transmissions have a breather on top)...old fluid do not expand as new fluid so your fluid level will be off and your transmission will not work properly.
You can do it, but I wouldn’t recommend it if it hasn’t been done before
@@shiftwrenchrepeat if its not done, those particles will eat your clutch pack, it just needs to be done correctly. In these trucks the worst that can happen is damaging your EPC and thats about $85 AM or $210 from TOYOTA (PARTS) The EPC is the solenoid that will take most of those metal shavings during and after a flush.
Yeah I know where you’re coming from, I worked there for years, I agree. Just a few differences in opinion, if a vehicle hasn’t been done in 100,00 miles and is sitting at 200k, I’m going to drip drain it. Thanks for watching and commenting appreciate it!
Nothing To skip this Is the only video a Tundra owner should watch if they are Trying to research The steps to take
I Am severely grateful For the engineer Who Designed this
You can replace anything On that truck.
Wow I really appreciate the kind words. Thank you!
You look like a cross of sean omalley and phil anselmo
Ded lol I just watch Sean O’Malley whoop some ass!
You leave the truck running when you check the fluid?
Yep! Has to be running
@@shiftwrenchrepeat can you continue to add fluid while it's running if you're not getting anything from the overflow?
Yep!
lifetime fluid is a joke haha
Right? Like no I choose life…
Complete lunacy toyota went to sealed transmissions in 2005. Why?@@!!!
Way of the dealer life
Hey at what operating temp do we do the level check? And are you saying it would be ok to add the 20oz of Lucas without letting any fluid out? Great video thanks man!
I just go when the coolant temp is in the middle, (I don’t remember the exact temp that the scan tool reads) and yes you can add without draining any out.