Good video ! I hoping to 'ohm out' my coils. There are 3 Tangs. Center one is a common between the low voltage coil and 2nd coil. It seems to ohm out at about 2 ohms , must be a number 18 or 20 wire gauge, low resistance coil. Im not sure about the 2nd interior coil , by the way all 3 tangs should read infinite ohms if you place black negative meter lead firmly against the four laminated metal core edges, to assure that coils arent fried/shorted. Put an old piece of copper wire, and stuck it down the black tube/tower and other end close to laminated metal core sides . wasnt really painful, just a little, harmless zap, after i took a nine volt battery out of my smoke detector and touched between the two outer tangs . Wouldnt do that test , until after coil was already out of the distrib , cause i was afraid a stray spark could zap the FET ,hall effect transistor,or chip that reads the magnet - reluctor pulse . The bearing is a #6201RS, or a # 8201RS roller pin type bearing. Wondering if Graingers might sell them. Not sure....
The ODB tool said BAD CAM SENSOR on my 2000 Chrysler Sebring JXi convertible. Done tons of research and landed on eBay buying the whole NEW assembly for under $56! I'm a computer system builder that only drives cars he absolutely loves. So I'm actually posting someone to replace it for me. I play with computers not car engines because I've broken three cars trying to work on them. Wish me luck, this car is close to my heart and has a few more issues before i can truly enjoy driving it.
Very helpful, everyone always says just replace the distributor on the 6g73 well now I know you don't have to do that if it's just a can sensor or a coil
+Mike Moyer the best way to do that jjob is to never remove the distributor from the car , the coil and cam sensor will cost you less than 80 bucks new on ebay , and you can replace them inside the car will save you a good few hours , but if you take it out set number one on tdc first
Thanks to this video I consolidated parts from my two dead distributors and got one working. The ignition coil on the oldest one was corroded real bad. Left out the new one I installed and kept it as a backup to save $$$. We shall see how long the salvaged/rebuilt one lasts before I toss it back in.
Hey Jamie, outstanding job on your car videos, very in depth and informative. I enjoyed your review about the Chrysler 2.5 V6 distributor... and yes it is a royal pain. Been having trouble finding further information concerning the voltage path from the ASD relay and the coil. Haynes manual doesn't cover anything with ASD or electrical schematics with the ASD 1999 Dodge Avenger 2.5 V6 New distributor - couple years ago New crank sensor- same time as distributor New timing belt & guides New water pump New spark plugs. Car just stopped while driving down the road, pulled over and has never restarted. No spark from wires. I followed your videos concerning a "no spark" scenario, but still having a couple questions. Took a test light to the ASD plug at the distributor with ignition on got a light and heard the relay...s clicking. 3 relays mounted on driver side firewall. I also could hear the fuel pump hmm for a few sec. Unfortunately the light did not remain on which I wasn't too concerned about because another youtube video showed the light would stay on while cranking the engine. Mine does not do that. I get the initial light, then nothing after while cranking or not. I tried switching the three relays, but same results. Couldn't determine which fuses to check in the engine compartment. Nothing really identified concerning the relay. All the fuses seem to check out ok. I checked the two farthest pins on the other distributor connector and got the ground signal and then checked the other voltage pins, received about 8 volts on one (second pin in) and I believe 5 volts on the other middle pin so Im assuming the PCU/ECM is OK. My question:... would there be any other devices, safeties, switches that would cause no spark to the coil from the ASD? Thanks for your great Vid's
100% I also pulled a plug to check compression (didn't have my gauge though). I would have expected to see consistent voltage at the coil supply wire, but after the initial "ignition on" the test light would go off and nothing on crank.
I figured it was involved. I did replace it the same time I replaced the distributor. I pulled it out to check it and it showed a few minor scratches on the end, unfortunately I didn't check it electrically. Any tips on continuity and voltage to look for?. Thanks again for your advice.
So, how would you suggest doing a little timing advance? With my old Lebaron 3.0L v6, just turning the distributor a little bit would give quite a bit of pep to the engine, without affecting it negatively. Seems like something similar could be accomplished here..
thank you so much for showing how to break down that distributor i have recently purchased a sebring plus and i am child of the point and condenser days ,so that being said i trying to catch up tech wise and that was very helpful, just hint tho you need a brighter light when your showing things up close it was hard to see inside the cap but i knew what you were talking about because i experienced that when i was a kid having a hairline crack in the cap it drove me crazy for a month until i realize to look at the cap thanks again and i appreciate any other tips on the sebring plus
jedigordon2006 No problem man. Glad that the video helped you out and I am always adding new videos. Just put some new ones up on the Sebring tonight. Let me know if you ever have a problem or any questions.
I have a Chrysler Sebring 2000 I changed the distributor I started the car and runs like 5 min the distributor go but one more time and I changed again I don't know what to do next if you have any idea thank you I like your videos
Hey I Have the same car with strange problems. It died one day like fuel filter needed replaced. I did that, it seemed fixed and a week or two later, same Problem. Except now I can drive for 20 minutes then boom out of gas sensation. Next thing I did was change cam sensor with an Amazon knock off and now it hardly starts.... Acts like no spark from cylinders. Any ideas?
TheyCallmeSpider-man, is it throwing any codes? Are you able to take a quick video on your phone and send it to me so that I can hear what it is doing?
Ditto on a 96, looking forward to replacing distributor and oil sensor (little leak, but helps drop oil pressure if it gets bad). Ive owned 3 sebring convertibles and that + tuneup has been the fix
So I checked it it was crusty. Cleaned with some brake cleaner , checked for vacuum on it it works fine . Tested the car again and it shut off with in a minute, no change . Any other ideas?
first of all let me say you are amazing man keep doing what u doing u explain everything with details I like that..I got a question I need help idk if probably u can help me out I got a 2000 Chrysler cirrus 2.5 litters v6 I put my computer and it says camshaft sensor I already change the crankshaft and the distributor and still no spark keeps saying camshaft sensor I can't find it anywhere around the motor to replace ...
I did a CPS replacement. Is there anyway that I could have messed up the timing with the distributor? It would only go back in one way, I dont see any way i could have gotten it 180 deg off. The distributor would not go back in if I turned the rotor 180 deg. Plug wires are all correct. Thanks for any info.
+dbwaggoner set td on 1 then set dost to one as you slide it in use your hand to slight wiggle on the rotor you will feel I go back in place , if you know it's right check crank sensor most of the time that's problem if you have no fire
Thanks, I put a $10 ebay Crank sensor and it didn't work, so I bought one from auto zone. was just hoping i didn't screw up the timing. Don't think there was any way i could. Thanks again for the video.
hello james, Could you give me the electrical diagram of the distributor of the crysler stratus 2.5 v6 97? José Ferraz Jr. From Curitiba, Brasil. Thank you
TheRealGhostK22 sure just pull one of your plug wires put a spark plug in the end of it and then take you a negative jumper cable connected to that end and then grounded on the car and have someone turned it over you'll see whether it's firing or not that's the easiest way to do it, need any help feel free to let me know
TheRealGhostK22 Lol, no buddy. You have a sensor called a crank sensor that is responsible for telling the computer that its ok to ignite the spark plugs. Thats how it knows which one and where and sometimes that sensor goes bad and some of the things you have mentioned sound like a crank sensor might be your culprit. If the crank sensor is working correctly, then your next possibility would be the coil. Also, I believe that your vehicle has an ASD (Auto Shut Down Relay) that, when you turn your key on you should be able to feel it click. Let me know what you find out with these two things.
It just takes a real long time to turn over .. It takes at lest 15 seconds to turn over , but it starts every time .. After its ran for a bit it will turn over just fine but after about 2 or 3 min off it laggs once again .. I changed the battery because it was reading 6.4volts and it worked fine for 1 day then same issue .
luis huitron Hi Luis, whenever you have a heavy drag on the starter, usually in these Chryslers, the starter is about to go bad.The first thing to do is go up to the one of auto parts stores and have them run a test on your alternator/battery and let make sure that those are in perfect working order. As long as those are in good shape, the starter is probably your culprit. Let me know what you find out.
I have watched this video many times. Very helpful. However,,,, WHERE do you get the cam sensor by itself? Nobody sells it. Ebay seller says they do but it is Chinese crap that doesn't even have he right asd connection.
tip out there go to wholesaler go to where mechanics go small shops dealer wanted 900+$ for distribuator..wholesaler 154$...and bone yard 43$ with 90 day warranty
+JamieJones TheCarMan I need help for my95 Sebring lxi has a new starter and a good battery and it won't start all the power things work (radio,wipers,lights) but no crank ??? need some help
+Michael Rease certainly can be but you're going to have to get a lot deeper than that you got to figure out whether it's got spark or gas and compression
Good video ! I hoping to 'ohm out' my coils. There are 3 Tangs. Center one is a common between the low voltage coil and 2nd coil. It seems to ohm out at about 2 ohms , must be a number 18 or 20 wire gauge, low resistance coil. Im not sure about the 2nd interior coil , by the way all 3 tangs should read infinite ohms if you place black negative meter lead firmly against the four laminated metal core edges, to assure that coils arent fried/shorted. Put an old piece of copper wire, and stuck it down the black tube/tower and other end close to laminated metal core sides . wasnt really painful, just a little, harmless zap, after i took a nine volt battery out of my smoke detector and touched between the two outer tangs . Wouldnt do that test , until after coil was already out of the distrib , cause i was afraid a stray spark could zap the FET ,hall effect transistor,or chip that reads the magnet - reluctor pulse . The bearing is a #6201RS, or a # 8201RS roller pin type bearing. Wondering if Graingers might sell them. Not sure....
Thanks for everything I support our veterans
Lucky man to have a woman willing to record ya talk about car parts. From mechanic to mechanic job well ✔️ 👍 👌
Thanks for mentioning that installation tip. I definitely would’ve missed that one key is different than the other 👍
2021 and Im gonna rebuild distributor in my '98 sebring conv hehe thx for footage, very helpful Greetings from europe
The ODB tool said BAD CAM SENSOR on my 2000 Chrysler Sebring JXi convertible. Done tons of research and landed on eBay buying the whole NEW assembly for under $56! I'm a computer system builder that only drives cars he absolutely loves. So I'm actually posting someone to replace it for me. I play with computers not car engines because I've broken three cars trying to work on them. Wish me luck, this car is close to my heart and has a few more issues before i can truly enjoy driving it.
thank u. this really encouraged me to do it myself. i have a 99 cirrus that wont turn over
+Nicole Simpson thats awesome get it done
Very helpful, everyone always says just replace the distributor on the 6g73 well now I know you don't have to do that if it's just a can sensor or a coil
Cam*
+Mike Moyer the best way to do that jjob is to never remove the distributor from the car , the coil and cam sensor will cost you less than 80 bucks new on ebay , and you can replace them inside the car will save you a good few hours , but if you take it out set number one on tdc first
Nice detail work, thanks
Do you know if it is possible to replace the coil with the distributor in place? Thank you & greetings!
Thanks im pretty technical also I'm getting cam and crank signal need to test coil so I enjoyed this break down
Thanks to this video I consolidated parts from my two dead distributors and got one working. The ignition coil on the oldest one was corroded real bad. Left out the new one I installed and kept it as a backup to save $$$. We shall see how long the salvaged/rebuilt one lasts before I toss it back in.
+sgtmyers88 love it
Good deal, found the problem with your help
I can't find any internal parts except for the cap and rotor. Do you have any sources for the ASD or the reluctor, etc. module?
Excellent, detailed job brotha.... You taught me something today. 😁
Hello, does the Delco Mitsubishi v5 / 2.5 work instead of the Delco for the Chrysler engine, and thank you
Thank you fer the video it helped alot
I had a question for you what side does the fuel vapor leak detection pump sit on a 2.5 l Chrysler Sebring converter
Very helpful, Thanks
Hey Jamie, outstanding job on your car videos, very in depth and informative. I enjoyed your review about the Chrysler 2.5 V6 distributor... and yes it is a royal pain. Been having trouble finding further information concerning the voltage path from the ASD relay and the coil. Haynes manual doesn't cover anything with ASD or electrical schematics with the ASD
1999 Dodge Avenger
2.5 V6
New distributor - couple years ago
New crank sensor- same time as distributor
New timing belt & guides
New water pump
New spark plugs.
Car just stopped while driving down the road, pulled over and has never restarted. No spark from wires. I followed your videos concerning a "no spark" scenario, but still having a couple questions. Took a test light to the ASD plug at the distributor with ignition on got a light and heard the relay...s clicking. 3 relays mounted on driver side firewall. I also could hear the fuel pump hmm for a few sec. Unfortunately the light did not remain on which I wasn't too concerned about because another youtube video showed the light would stay on while cranking the engine. Mine does not do that. I get the initial light, then nothing after while cranking or not. I tried switching the three relays, but same results. Couldn't determine which fuses to check in the engine compartment. Nothing really identified concerning the relay. All the fuses seem to check out ok.
I checked the two farthest pins on the other distributor connector and got the ground signal and then checked the other voltage pins, received about 8 volts on one (second pin in) and I believe 5 volts on the other middle pin so Im assuming the PCU/ECM is OK.
My question:... would there be any other devices, safeties, switches that would cause no spark to the coil from the ASD?
Thanks for your great Vid's
+FWB4 Productions are you 100% no fire
100% I also pulled a plug to check compression (didn't have my gauge though). I would have expected to see consistent voltage at the coil supply wire, but after the initial "ignition on" the test light would go off and nothing on crank.
1st ,suspect crank sensor
thats going to supply , the signal
I figured it was involved. I did replace it the same time I replaced the distributor. I pulled it out to check it and it showed a few minor scratches on the end, unfortunately I didn't check it electrically. Any tips on continuity and voltage to look for?. Thanks again for your advice.
So, how would you suggest doing a little timing advance? With my old Lebaron 3.0L v6, just turning the distributor a little bit would give quite a bit of pep to the engine, without affecting it negatively. Seems like something similar could be accomplished here..
+Mitch Thompson the computer controls it but you could order a chip to increase performance
thank you so much for showing how to break down that distributor i have recently purchased a sebring plus and i am child of the point and condenser days ,so that being said i trying to catch up tech wise and that was very helpful, just hint tho you need a brighter light when your showing things up close it was hard to see inside the cap but i knew what you were talking about because i experienced that when i was a kid having a hairline crack in the cap it drove me crazy for a month until i realize to look at the cap thanks again and i appreciate any other tips on the sebring plus
jedigordon2006 No problem man. Glad that the video helped you out and I am always adding new videos. Just put some new ones up on the Sebring tonight. Let me know if you ever have a problem or any questions.
I have a Chrysler Sebring 2000 I changed the distributor I started the car and runs like 5 min the distributor go but one more time and I changed again I don't know what to do next if you have any idea thank you I like your videos
Hey I Have the same car with strange problems. It died one day like fuel filter needed replaced. I did that, it seemed fixed and a week or two later, same Problem. Except now I can drive for 20 minutes then boom out of gas sensation. Next thing I did was change cam sensor with an Amazon knock off and now it hardly starts.... Acts like no spark from cylinders. Any ideas?
TheyCallmeSpider-man, is it throwing any codes? Are you able to take a quick video on your phone and send it to me so that I can hear what it is doing?
Cool footage! The distributor in my 1998 Sebring conv iis weird behaving when engine is warm, and cause problem with start...
Ditto on a 96, looking forward to replacing distributor and oil sensor (little leak, but helps drop oil pressure if it gets bad). Ive owned 3 sebring convertibles and that + tuneup has been the fix
update my issue 3yrs ago was a bad cam sensor :] but now is the distributor (another swapped is working)
Thanks
Let me just say here and now.....YOUR LOOOOKING MAAAVELOUSSS.....
Teresa
gregorio
how do you get to the distributor? where on the motor.
have a shut off issue with my 97 cirrus . Starts right after. Seems to do better when driven for at least 30 min . Any ideas ??
Check pcv
Thanks I’ll check that next 👍
So I checked it it was crusty. Cleaned with some brake cleaner , checked for vacuum on it it works fine . Tested the car again and it shut off with in a minute, no change . Any other ideas?
Crankshaft Position Sensor its located on the transmission bell housing.
first of all let me say you are amazing man keep doing what u doing u explain everything with details I like that..I got a question I need help idk if probably u can help me out I got a 2000 Chrysler cirrus 2.5 litters v6 I put my computer and it says camshaft sensor I already change the crankshaft and the distributor and still no spark keeps saying camshaft sensor I can't find it anywhere around the motor to replace ...
I did a CPS replacement. Is there anyway that I could have messed up the timing with the distributor? It would only go back in one way, I dont see any way i could have gotten it 180 deg off. The distributor would not go back in if I turned the rotor 180 deg. Plug wires are all correct. Thanks for any info.
+dbwaggoner pay very close attn to the key at the end of the shaft the points are different
+dbwaggoner set td on 1 then set dost to one as you slide it in use your hand to slight wiggle on the rotor you will feel I go back in place , if you know it's right check crank sensor most of the time that's problem if you have no fire
Thanks, I put a $10 ebay Crank sensor and it didn't work, so I bought one from auto zone. was just hoping i didn't screw up the timing. Don't think there was any way i could. Thanks again for the video.
hello james, Could you give me the electrical diagram of the distributor of the crysler stratus 2.5 v6 97?
José Ferraz Jr. From Curitiba, Brasil.
Thank you
Great job I had that issue with car my Sebring sending no juice
do you know where the camshaft position sensor is located on dodge avenger es v6 2.5 ?
where do you get your parts from or know where I can find the coil?
+Austin Barnett the cheapest place to find it is eBay
Thank you for your reply!
Working on the eclipse 3.0 v6 and replaced the cap and rotor n still no spark. Any way i can test the ignition coil with it still on the car?
TheRealGhostK22 sure just pull one of your plug wires put a spark plug in the end of it and then take you a negative jumper cable connected to that end and then grounded on the car and have someone turned it over you'll see whether it's firing or not that's the easiest way to do it, need any help feel free to let me know
We did that and no spark. Was gonna test it with ohmeter, can i just pull cam sensor off n would the coil be there to test? Appreciate the help
TheRealGhostK22 Quick question, have you already verified that you have a crank signal?
Not sure what you mean? The car cranks if you try to start it.
TheRealGhostK22 Lol, no buddy. You have a sensor called a crank sensor that is responsible for telling the computer that its ok to ignite the spark plugs. Thats how it knows which one and where and sometimes that sensor goes bad and some of the things you have mentioned sound like a crank sensor might be your culprit. If the crank sensor is working correctly, then your next possibility would be the coil. Also, I believe that your vehicle has an ASD (Auto Shut Down Relay) that, when you turn your key on you should be able to feel it click. Let me know what you find out with these two things.
It just takes a real long time to turn over .. It takes at lest 15 seconds to turn over , but it starts every time .. After its ran for a bit it will turn over just fine but after about 2 or 3 min off it laggs once again .. I changed the battery because it was reading 6.4volts and it worked fine for 1 day then same issue .
luis huitron Hi Luis, whenever you have a heavy drag on the starter, usually in these Chryslers, the starter is about to go bad.The first thing to do is go up to the one of auto parts stores and have them run a test on your alternator/battery and let make sure that those are in perfect working order. As long as those are in good shape, the starter is probably your culprit. Let me know what you find out.
so the pick up sensor is the cam also
I have watched this video many times. Very helpful. However,,,, WHERE do you get the cam sensor by itself? Nobody sells it. Ebay seller says they do but it is Chinese crap that doesn't even have he right asd connection.
Or would that sit right next to the windshield washer bottle
What can cause a hard start ?
luis huitron Hi Luis, does it seem like it wants to start and just won't? What are your symptoms?
that distributor has an "O" ring not a gasket. oil inside the distributor is from the. internal shaft seal . get a rebuild and be done. cheers
tip out there go to wholesaler go to where mechanics go small shops dealer wanted 900+$ for distribuator..wholesaler 154$...and bone yard 43$ with 90 day warranty
Yes for sure
I have changed the distributor but I need the firing order
+Marty Taylor Hey Marty, what year and what engine?
+JamieJones TheCarMan I need help for my95 Sebring lxi has a new starter and a good battery and it won't start all the power things work (radio,wipers,lights) but no crank ??? need some help
My car crank but dont start is this the reason why it wont start becuz the rotor and cap.messed up
+Michael Rease certainly can be but you're going to have to get a lot deeper than that you got to figure out whether it's got spark or gas and compression
JamieJones TheCarMan ...when u say compression do u mean head gasket or just the rotor n cap
JamieJones TheCarMan
Michael Rease get an OBDII tool and find out if it's the cam sensor for sure. I mean, it most likely is the cam sensor but it's better to be positive.
Hello
i believe i need a new distributor.. my sebring will crank but not start... or crank position sensor
Where is rebulid ?
habla español
so the pick up sensor is the cam also
so the pick up sensor is the cam also