Home Maintaining 80° During Heat Wave | HVAC
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ก.ค. 2024
- Not exactly sure (aside from unit needing another return) what else could be wrong with the unit. Seems oddly sized from the jump and not sure why she's getting so much heat radiating through the ceiling aside from lack of insulation. Pretty sure this tenant is getting the most from her AC unit.
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since that is a micro channel coil, it is more like a 6 or 7 on the dirt scale. Those things will get impacted easily and when they are cleaned with liquid, they will hold the liquid. You need to blow out the liquid, they do not self drain like a regular coil does.
You use the outdoor unit size, 3 ton in this case, not the indoor size.
The indoor unit can be sized up 1/2 to 1 ton higher than the outdoor unit, but it is still considered the size of the outdoor unit. Some mfrs provide a charge adjustment based on combination of the indoor and outdoor coils.
Internal filter rack size is 18x20.
Low blower speed gets just under 400CFM/ton or 1187CFM @ .50"WC TESP.
Another thing to determine is if the correct, or any, metering device is in the evaporator. The 042 air handler is a .074 orifice, but the 036 air handler is a .067 orifice. What does the mfr want to match the orifice to, the indoor or outdoor unit size.
wrong or no orifice could lead to an overcharge to try to get the SH number.
Airflow airflow airflow, just repeating what my teachers taught me lol. Airflow is what makes things look all wonky, gotta make sure everything is clean before playing with refrigerant, I do know that’s not realistic for most customers, but it’s why we experience most our issues because of lack of maintenance
That's cool how you did the wet bulb... that's what I show the apartment maintenance guys how to get the wet bulb. Great video brother love the realness of your videos 🤟💯🌎
You know it man! Not too fancy with the editing
Using the ductulator the 16x20 is big enough. And the oversized evap is fine. If you notice they had it on the lowest fan speed to compensate for the possibility of an oversized unit for the dwelling. But the evap sure was dirty
Something told me I used the ductulator wrong 🤦🏾♂️
I like your channel. Its great to see videos that are not a capacitor every vid lol
🤣 I do my best to not show just basic capacitor swaps
Yes, a wet/damp towel wrap around the tip of a thermometer will give you wet bulb temp. Wet bulb is always lower till you reach 100% humidity, at that point wet bulb and dry bulb temps are the same. Good video. Thank you...
That house needs insulation
I got the old school sling psychrometer and a digital one.
With where you're at in your career, you did well. Used your training, were logical and put in effort. The best you could do here was tweak the systems settings increasingly efficiently.
The clients situation is relatively simple ... and also the problem. The tonnage was substantially inadequate for the climate, and the homes design poor and lacking in insulation (like really lacking). Unless you're upgrading the condenser etc, or decided to be a contractor, not much else you could do here.
You can always over size the evaporator a half ton but never over size the condenser. With the ductulator, you line up what size you have (in your case at the bottom you set it to 16x20). Then you look at where your desired friction rate falls on the CFM. That’s how you determine your CFM. 16x20 is a little small but seems like it should work just fine (around 1900 cfm). I believe the outdoor unit could use some cleaning and it’s over charged a little. I’ve never had luck making my own sling psychrometer I just had to buy one. The views that you were getting with your thermal camera were definitely showing some lacking insulation. Great job gathering all the details man. Having internet can be a lifesaver for someone starting out for sure. I wish I had it when I started. I just made a million phone calls.
Dang, they taught me backwards in school.
@@AB_HVAC yeah. If the coil is smaller it will never dehumidify properly.
Yes, ur in the rite direction.. Yes. MC is susceptible to dirt. With the use of a txv, oversized the evaporator will increase the efficiency, however the dewpoint will not b reached as often there by not removing as much moisture from the air. Some systems that r mismatched and not properly Insulated, it's the best u can do. Additionally Systems in the southern states must b oversized to remove moisure.
I get that but I thought you oversize the condenser not the evap coil to help with dehumidification. Am I thinking the wrong way?
Bigger evaporator for better efficiency
You did good looking through the return is to small for that air handler another should be installed and the return box should be sealed it could be pulling hot air from the attic and passing it through the coil. Also seems the attic not insulated or breathing so that can cause hot house issues. But keep at it you will always be learning in this trade.
Thanks. I definitely told them we needed a 20x20 installed on that other wall. I measured it off camera and I could make that work. But you're right, the amount of closet units I deal with where the return isn't 100% sealed. It sucks
When it comes to micro. Channel units your best bet is to Recovery the refrigerate and weigh it back in .Micro channel coils are lesser in volume thus less refrigerant is needed .
If its a piston then verify the right size/orifice to match the tonnage from the outdoor unit. Example: So if outdoor a/c says 2ton with .43 orifice that orifice on the inside needs to be that.
Could be too much refrigerant being metered thru.
Classic case of lack of insulation
I think your rating for that filter was spot on. Still needs changing. Good video!
If the system is oversized it would short cycle and make temp but still be very clammy in the house or it would freeze over constantly. If I had to guess it looks overcharged. I'd say some other tech added gas because he didn't know what else to do when ths lady called last year. The technical definition of A/C is bringing the indoor temp 20 degrees below outdoor temp. On a well designed system you can do much better than that and good insulation helps alot. So on a 100° day with a badly designed system 80°is as good as it gets.
I definitely didn't see signs of short cycling however maybe cleaning the condenser would've shown me something maybe idk. Like you say it's making a 20° difference and looking at the heat radiating through the drywall I just 🤷🏾♂️
As an average (non-hvac) person, i put up black-out reflective blinds in all the windows to help block as much heat as possible. I even took it a step further and put insulation in the attic where it was missing(including attic ladder.) Those electric bills get crazy between june-August and all i gotta say is haven't had a bill over $240 since.
Would’ve quoted either trying to recover to get target superheat or pull it all out and weigh in factory charge. Typically you want to do airflow before charge but a situation like this may take a little bit of FAFO
Yes. Ur rite about sizing for dehumd
See now I'm confused
You oversize evap for better humidity. But you can fiddle with fan speeds and trim the charge for better performance.
So if you oversize for humidity wouldn't you undersize slightly for dehumidification?
I think you oversize the evap gives more dehumidifying. Oversizing the condenser can starts freezing
That makes sense. In low load conditions it'd probably freeze especially with minor air restrictions
@@AB_HVACwhat was delta T?
@richlikeg3722 20. Probe reading 80 at thermostat, blowing out 60
@@AB_HVAC I’d do the maintenance, clean coils and tell the home owner that’s just the way it is with the temps outside.
Just an experienced armchair QB here, but your either over feeding (wrong orifice) or not enough air flow. Didn't check air pressures so..... But the core issue here is lack of insulation. typical where the landlord will break the tenant by having to pay for that! Ridiculous. there is next to no insulation in that house! I had one of my own 20yrs ago like that. I sized it. Before it would not pull below 80 at WFO. After I personally blew in the attic, it would drop to 70 and shut off, with 100F ambient.
🎉in California. R humidity here is very low. When we size equipment, we will upside the evap. By 1/2 ton. This makes for a more efficient system. The evap doesn't hit the dewpoint as often. When the evap removes moisture that u don't want removed cause it's California humidity, this wastes energy.
Now in ur region the opposite is true. U want to remove moisture because this improves comfort. So ur evap should b 1/2 ton smaller then ur outdoor. Or upside ur outdoor. Same thing.
And that's kind of how my mentor taught me back in Michigan. If removing humidity is your biggest concern than just 1/2 ton smaller would do the trick most the time. So many people are saying the opposite and I'm just here like 😐
Multiply 16x20. Divide that by 200. That will give the size of unit it will work on. That return is way small for that sys.u need around 25x30 return
Yeah that's what my boss said too but dang where everyone learn that lil rule of thumb I'm keeping that in the back pocket fr 😅
@@AB_HVAC glad to help.
When I’m out of range I can usually get the field piece app to work if I completely turn off cellular data. Idk why it works but it does.
I'll definitely try that next time, everyone I knew with Verizon though had issues today
Ur mentor is rite
I'll let him know you agree lol
Its ok for the air handler to be bigger than the condenser unit but never the other way around.
Why not the other way around
@AB_HVAC Well Ideally they should be the same size. One bigger than the other will have a hard time removing moisture from the air. Can also make the system run longer cause one coil having a hard time keeping up with the other. If you tried everything and it still doesnt get cool then might be time to put in same size evap coil.
@mrautoguy8419 it also does have too small of a return for that unit. The "growth" on the inside of the air handler is pretty wild and the fan blades condition. This was just 🤢
dr pepper best soda no bs😂💯
Facts bro it's the most refreshing
th-cam.com/video/gsgC6mV4Ip0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=ONYbGLSrNAdcXk4C. This will help a bit. Piston go with superheat, TXV go with subcool. No worries with the tonnage difference. They the industry did that crap to get to the SEER. Saw it all the time. Your piston size will regulate the coil or in other words a detuned 3.5 ton coil. I think you were overcharged. Subcool way to high. Was heat strips on when unit came on? Check those as well if house is warm. Usually customer will have a high electric bill too. 10-14 deg subcool is where the unit should have been. I would have removed refrigerant. Use your duculator at .03 to .05. The opening is good. 1400 cfm @ .05 is 20 x 14. Do not use .5. I also believe fan should be set to high speed for the 400 cfm per ton. Those wood studs in the return, I have seen those studs go all the way to the attic with no blocking between them, thus attic air get pulled right into the return. Not good and uncomfortable to the tenants. Keep it up. You’re doing good. Someone else said it, they need atttic insulation.
The ultimate breakdown 🤣 I wish I could've copied and pasted this to the invoice
@@AB_HVAC that link has good info. Will help you in determining the refrigerant side of the system. Kinda puts things in a better perspective and starts removing the guess work. You’ll have and get much better results.
No phone service = you didn't pay your bill😅
I haven’t watched the whole video so I don’t know what the end concludes but if she just started having this issue and your current state is experiencing the heat wave, I don’t know if it could be insulation in the attic
With iPhone 5g phones(mine is a iphone12), it gives me the option to switch between 5g and LTE. I do that sometimes when I’m hot spotting. I’m sure YT university has a tutorial on this.
I'm not sure I'm following here. At 2:58 you're saying that you have very low sub-cooling when the gauge is reading 26.3 SC and you say you have fairly high super-heat when the gauge reads 1.8 SH. Was this just a mistake on what you're calling each thing?
Yeah my bad
@@AB_HVAC No harm no foul. It's all good.
I would clean both coils before I judged anything else.
That's fair.
Man, I went to a trailer on Sunday, they didn't have a return at all on a 2.5 ton and they put their filter over top of the evap coil. SMH
I always feel weird about where to tell people to put them on those units because if they don't cover that front vented part of the cover, stuff gets thru there, then everything in that closet can get sucked to the top so they need filters there too
Not enough return
You didnt have high superheat. You had low superheat and high subcool.
Yeah I said it wrong, my bad
You are doing great work my man..keep it up. Shoot I learn something new every day out in the field
Overcharged possibly
@Dukecrazy90 yea I would start removing some refrigerant first
Buy you some wet bulb socks or use a piece of T shirt if you are a southern country boy ( A country boy can survive )
🤣🤣
24 degrees on sub cool 😎 massively over charged
Yeah but because the condenser is smaller than the evap coil in tonnage I would expect that the condenser to be more full than the evaporator and not necessarily be as correct as the would be if they were same size. But that was my thought process
Also 90% sure the indoor unit had a piston when i opened up the evap coil, so I didn't really pay that much attention to the SC because pistons are charged by SH
@@AB_HVAC true true 👍 great job
@LilyRoseElectric thanks for sticking around for the whole video🙏🏽✊🏽🔥
You’re overcharged
Microchannel is very sensitive to dirt build up.
Think I should've cleaned the condenser?
Yes those micro channels will fool you but it looks like it needs insulation in attic as hout as it was outside it will never keep up @AB_HVAC
To me an untrained person. You ain’t picking up the heat from the evaporator coil. I think you would have to measure the static pressure drops but my gut says it needs more volume combined with bad insulation.
The static pressure did seem high just from the force it took to remove the filter, but all in all she only has complaints when it's 100° out, and says it maintains 80. In these cheap rentals man I can't beat that kind of temp difference
@@AB_HVAC yeah chasing perfection can lead ya down a path of wasted time and money. Cool channel. I’ll subscribe. I find troubleshooting fun. Here in AZ it’s 110F today but I can keep it 74F with no struggles. But I have (2) 4 ton units 18 seer variable capacity. If money was no option I could get into the high 60s lol 😆
@Bacongrease00 man that's dope. I primarily do rentals so I haven't touched anything really over entry level stuff 🙃 wish I could get hands on with higher seer stuff but, I just don't come across it. Sometimes i feel like I'm getting behind because of that