✅Protect yourself when working in electrical outlets, with this tool you see me using, the Fluke FLK2AC/90-1000V Pocket-Sized Voltage Detector, VoltAlert 90 to 1000 V AC: amzn.to/2THggao
I really appreciate the quick video. SO many times videos are way longer than need to be. The only thing I would enjoy as a novice wiring my retirement home would be how you wired the 6/3 cable to the main breaker box. I know earlier in the video you complained about the aluminum cable and wanted to clean it up in there. Wish I could have seen the after. Thanks I subscribed.
You should always loop the wire to the right so it locks tightly. You did not when grounding it. Also when you tightened your wire you just tightened it and that was it you should always wiggle the wire a bit then tighten a little more a few times when working with stranded wire.
Hello, Jeff, how I can run dedicated cables for a 220-volt kitchen stove so I can use the stove while I have my house connected to the Photovoltaic panels because PV doesn`t supply enough energy to run this stove and the whole house at the same tim; I have a transfer manual switch next to the house meter to change from grid to solar in the house.
that one i am not sure of, sounds like you need t continue to use the electric company for the stove/ if so, what we have done is run 6-3 oven cable from the fuse panel to the stove.
The incoming ground wire was semi-looped around the ground screw. I've seen others do the grounding with a pigtail and a special wire nut with a hole on top to allow the incoming ground wire thru after being screwed together with the pig tail. The pig tail is of course screw to the metal box. This method seems more secure that what is shown in this video. Are both ways acceptable to national code?
It was not semi loped around the ground screw it was about 80% wrapped around the ground screw go back and look closely, it exceeds the 60-70% wrap around the screws that are common on switches and receptacles. Your method works fine too, but with this solid core ground wire, this exceeds the standard wrapping on most receptacles and is quite safe, quite secure and nothing at all wrong with it.
@@Mbsmoothe the old cable will likely be stapled, at least once right near the box and at least once right by the breaker panel. The key phrase is "at least".
WHY A THUMBS DOWN? BECAUSE YOU SKIPPED A VERY IMPORTANT STEP FOR GUYS WHO ARE TRYING TO DO IT THEMSELVES. YOU NEVER SHOWED THEM HOW TO HOOK UP THE WIRES TO THE BREAKER AND TO THE BREKER BOX... WHAT HAPPENED??
I have 6 awg running from the main breaker to a box on the far wall. Can I pull 2 different 240 plug types off that and remain in code. One plug would be for my welder and the other for my generator. They use different plugs. Don’t worry I’m not going to backfeed. I’m installing an interlock device.
Not sure on this one, without knowing the loads on each device. what we did on our house was the electricians installed a transfer switch with a receptacle on it. A Lot of people years ago would create illegal cables from their generator to the dryer vent to inject power into fuse panels. If that 6 AWG wire is also feeding a stove, they usually want it to be a dedicated circuit for stove only. What other devices is it feeding in your wall? Why is it there?
On my new range only the burners work but not the oven and no power for controls to program oven, my 3 prong receptacle shows 247 volts across ,117v one one side neutral to ground and 127 on other side but still no power to oven only burners please help.
If you have a way to very carefully remove the metal plate off the back of the range, cut power first, then remove the plate, and turn power back on, and carefully take those same measurements there, from the black to white and from the red to white, don't touch any of those connectors with your hand, they are live! And let's make sure you are getting the voltage from your outlet through the plug to those 3 contact points where the 4 wires screw onto the back of the range. If the oven controls don't work, that says to me that the 120 V digital section is not getting powered. It will receive that power from either the black wire or the red wire, so I am assuming there is nothing wrong with the range, and that either the cable is bad, or your wiring of the power cable on the back of the range was not done correctly.
Question. I have a 6/3 right now installed in the kitchen directly to the garage. We are moving the stove to a different location. Can’t I extend the current 6/3 in a junction box or do I have to run a longer new cable directly to the breaker?
I know this is 4 yrs old but I'll try anyway. I have a question about running the wires on the inside surface of the wall. The run will be 18-20ft from the main panel to the outlet near the stove. The reason I ask is the house has 10ft ceilings and the crawl space doesn't have room to crawl under it. The house was built in 1910 and someone updated the panel with a 200A at some point. It has a 50a breaker but the wire isn't 6awg at best it's 8awg but to me it looks more like 10awg. It runs out the main panel and out thru a hole drilled in the wall into a junction box into gray electrical conduit to the receptacle. The wall covering through out the house is something like shiplap. To run it inside the wall I would have to cut through the wall covering all the way over and the try to patch it back. Can I run the 6/3 with ground through conduit on the inside surface of the wall ? Or would I been to use 4 individual wires through the conduit? Thanks😊
Good work except for the romex running along the length of the wood stud above. Doing that would require you place nail plates along the whole length of the romex as it travels along that wood stud. That would not pass inspection. Better to have notched each of the 2x4 or 1x4 studs across the ceiling and then place nail plates on the notched out area. Thanks for the video. Good audio, good video and explanation.
Hello can i add a #8 to # 6 wire for my stove? The original wire was #6 but due to move the location of the stove had to add some more wire but got #8 does this affect the voltage thanks
Yes you can as long as the you use a breaker that is allowed with #8 gauge wire since that is now the weakest link. This is 50 amps in Canada and is good for pretty much any stove. 6/3 is kinda overkill tbh
I wanted to see the removal of wires/breaker at the panel and the install of the new wiring at the panel. You showed the range end fine but not the panel.
Nice video. I've got a question. Is it code-kosher to run just the ground wire alongside the existing cable instead of running a whole new 4 wire cable?
Yes you can do that and we have done that ourselves too, In one condo project I ran just the ground wire by itself. You can get the green insulated ground wire and then tie it to a wiring fish and fish it down the wall to the outlet box so you don't have to run an entire brand new 6/3 wire.
nice product placement with that Milwaulkee driver drill , but no way you actually used it on the terminals.....That bit falling out every time woulda made me just use an old fashion screw driver too.
ok , I just laughed when it fell out. I hate it when i fight to keep them in an extension ! It just looked a little setup LOL, still a great tool and video !
@@thunderuncle229 Ovens draw between 30 amps and 50 amps you can't make any generalization about it. You have to find out from the manufacturer of your oven how much it draws and make sure you have the appropriate of the appropriate wires that can handle that load, and the appropriate breaker in the breaker Box that is that is rated to handle that same load.
that "charring" looks suspiciously like an anti-oxidation agent that is applied, by code, to aluminum wire connected to terminals in the panel and meter base. But hey what do I know...
EXACTLY!!!! this is a guy that is likely used to working on new construction, and trained in that, and then went on his own. So as a result, he sees everything older than 3 years ago as woefully out of code and "dangerous" and then when working with someone that actually HAS the experience working in older environments, he'd be like "you dont know what youre talking about, youre fired"
@@jeffostroff and how old is the buildings you go in? how old is that restaurant, or drs office? Do they need to gut and rebuild every time a code book changes? LOL dude...what the freak, bro.
No this is a 2 Pole switch I can't imagine them every using 3 poll in a residential setting it's overkill usually 3 poll would be used in commercial properties.
For reasons unknown, the video for that scene was never found. Once in a while you think you're recording a video and discover later it was not recording,
Every single one of these videos which people are only watching to learn which connection goes to which color, you guys skipped right over it. Your video was no different. Why bother
at 7:26, take a close look and freeze frame. The black and red wires don't matter, they go to the X & X port, you'll see on your outlet the engraved letters. Since dryer needs 240 volts differential, it does not matter whether black or red goes to x or y. Notice how they are copper colored screws. Notice how ground wire screw is green. Notice how the white neutral wire goes to the silver colored screw. Next time we shoot one we want to shoot it in 4k video and show this all closeup and explain it all.
So, this is just another point, where you run into problems with your stone-age split-phase distribution systems in the US. Over here, you just run your stove (4 zones + oven) on 3 phases, usually with 3*16A breakers (rarely, stoves need 20, 25 or 32A, but never 50A). Not more than a 5*2.5mm² (AWG 13, and the usual case) or 5*4mm² cable (AWG 11) is needed, not AWG 6 at all!
The video leads you to believe you would show how to wire the panel. Everything but. You should change the header but otherwise informative if I needed that part.
Sure it will, no code was violated. If you are going to come in here with a statement like that, you need to back it up with what exact NEC code is violated
That double box its not profesional my friend .... You just made the whole video go wrong and you tied the ground srew to tje right on the box andthe cable was twisted to the left second error
There is absolutely nothing wrong with using the double box, the only thing wrong is your misplaced opinion of what is professional. in fact the boxes are designed for that very purpose, and so is the extender so you are completely wrong about that. This passes code all of the time. You need to have that electrical box deeper sometimes because those range sockets are too deep to be able to get the wires to curve gracefully around behind it so you go ahead and keep jamming and pinching in your giant 6 gauge wires that are supposed to be gracefully turned wires or that's a violation of the National Electric Code. I have no idea what you're talking about the ground screw being wrong. You are supposed to tie the ground screw on to the metal Box and you are supposed to wrap the copper ground wire around that screw on the metal box that is required by National Electric Code that is called bonding the box to the system ground. And if you don't do it this way then you're the one that's doing it wrong and if you think that our method is wrong then you are wrong and you've been doing it wrong, my friend.
@@craigwiley3186 yeah but as thick as that wire is I'm sure it's not as bad as say a 14 awg or 12 etc.... Lol bigger the box the better the fill capacity also less heat binding and more stuff
Fuse box? Where are the fuses? Lmao. Also, nothing on hooking the wires into the circuit breaker box (not fuse box). We went from silly chatter about where the wire was taped to a conduit to "does the range turn on?". This may just be the worst how to video on you tube!!!
We showed you in the video where it was to connect If you don't know how to wire something to the control panel then you shouldn't be doing this and you shouldn't be blaming other people for your lack of knowledge on it working on a control panel is for people with lots of knowledge and experience
what in the world!?!?!?/ COMPLETELY WRONG!?!?! LOLOLOL Charring!?!? thats not charring! LOL regarding the microwave being on a circuit By itself, that isnt true either. Its not "wrong" People have their trusty code book that just came out last week, and then deem everything made before it as "completely wrong" and then mock the builder! LOL Whomever this guy is, saw a cha-ching" moment and ran up a friggin bill.
whiny person. You are whining about the National electric code book? The rule is not in the code book, making your uninformed argument a joke, building inspectors here for decades will shut you down and not close out your building permit if you don't have a dedicated 20 amp circuit for microwave. You obviously know nothing, but you're full of hot air trying to impress people with your lack of knowledge no one is buying your fake news. Many requirements are not found in the NEC book.
✅Protect yourself when working in electrical outlets, with this tool you see me using, the Fluke FLK2AC/90-1000V Pocket-Sized Voltage Detector, VoltAlert 90 to 1000 V AC: amzn.to/2THggao
I really appreciate the quick video. SO many times videos are way longer than need to be. The only thing I would enjoy as a novice wiring my retirement home would be how you wired the 6/3 cable to the main breaker box. I know earlier in the video you complained about the aluminum cable and wanted to clean it up in there. Wish I could have seen the after. Thanks I subscribed.
There are other videos on TH-cam that show how to wire it to the main breaker box plus the circuit breaker itself.
You should always loop the wire to the right so it locks tightly. You did not when grounding it. Also when you tightened your wire you just tightened it and that was it you should always wiggle the wire a bit then tighten a little more a few times when working with stranded wire.
Thanks for the insifght
Thank you
Partial instructions great !
Hello, Jeff, how I can run dedicated cables for a 220-volt kitchen stove so I can use the stove while I have my house connected to the Photovoltaic panels because PV doesn`t supply enough energy to run this stove and the whole house at the same tim; I have a transfer manual switch next to the house meter to change from grid to solar in the house.
that one i am not sure of, sounds like you need t continue to use the electric company for the stove/ if so, what we have done is run 6-3 oven cable from the fuse panel to the stove.
Would have been nice to see details of wiring box and service panel. Yeah I can prob find on someone elses video but be nice if was all on one
Sorry about that I think we had lost some scenes or could not find it.
The incoming ground wire was semi-looped around the ground screw. I've seen others do the grounding with a pigtail and a special wire nut with a hole on top to allow the incoming ground wire thru after being screwed together with the pig tail. The pig tail is of course screw to the metal box. This method seems more secure that what is shown in this video. Are both ways acceptable to national code?
It was not semi loped around the ground screw it was about 80% wrapped around the ground screw go back and look closely, it exceeds the 60-70% wrap around the screws that are common on switches and receptacles. Your method works fine too, but with this solid core ground wire, this exceeds the standard wrapping on most receptacles and is quite safe, quite secure and nothing at all wrong with it.
What problems did you have installing a new power cable from your stove to the electrical panel? Let us know in the comments below.
Any tips for running this in a finished kitchen? I'm thinking about attaching the new wire onto the old wire and pulling through the panel.. thoughts?
@@Mbsmoothe the old cable will likely be stapled, at least once right near the box and at least once right by the breaker panel. The key phrase is "at least".
Good Job! Very informational and straight forward. Glad to see you did things the right way.
Thanks Luis, glad you liked it.
WHY A THUMBS DOWN? BECAUSE YOU SKIPPED A VERY IMPORTANT STEP FOR GUYS WHO ARE TRYING TO DO IT THEMSELVES. YOU NEVER SHOWED THEM HOW TO HOOK UP THE WIRES TO THE BREAKER AND TO THE BREKER BOX... WHAT HAPPENED??
I have 6 awg running from the main breaker to a box on the far wall. Can I pull 2 different 240 plug types off that and remain in code. One plug would be for my welder and the other for my generator. They use different plugs. Don’t worry I’m not going to backfeed. I’m installing an interlock device.
Not sure on this one, without knowing the loads on each device. what we did on our house was the electricians installed a transfer switch with a receptacle on it. A Lot of people years ago would create illegal cables from their generator to the dryer vent to inject power into fuse panels. If that 6 AWG wire is also feeding a stove, they usually want it to be a dedicated circuit for stove only. What other devices is it feeding in your wall? Why is it there?
Gene Miller && better hire a pro. (Electrical).
On my new range only the burners work but not the oven and no power for controls to program oven, my 3 prong receptacle shows 247 volts across ,117v one one side neutral to ground and 127 on other side but still no power to oven only burners please help.
If you have a way to very carefully remove the metal plate off the back of the range, cut power first, then remove the plate, and turn power back on, and carefully take those same measurements there, from the black to white and from the red to white, don't touch any of those connectors with your hand, they are live! And let's make sure you are getting the voltage from your outlet through the plug to those 3 contact points where the 4 wires screw onto the back of the range. If the oven controls don't work, that says to me that the 120 V digital section is not getting powered. It will receive that power from either the black wire or the red wire, so I am assuming there is nothing wrong with the range, and that either the cable is bad, or your wiring of the power cable on the back of the range was not done correctly.
Question. I have a 6/3 right now installed in the kitchen directly to the garage. We are moving the stove to a different location. Can’t I extend the current 6/3 in a junction box or do I have to run a longer new cable directly to the breaker?
I feel a lot better on super high current 6-3 wires to do a home run to the fuse panel
@@jeffostroff appreciate it. Thanks bud. Keep the videos coming. I literally use them daily on my home Reno.
I know this is 4 yrs old but I'll try anyway. I have a question about running the wires on the inside surface of the wall. The run will be 18-20ft from the main panel to the outlet near the stove. The reason I ask is the house has 10ft ceilings and the crawl space doesn't have room to crawl under it. The house was built in 1910 and someone updated the panel with a 200A at some point. It has a 50a breaker but the wire isn't 6awg at best it's 8awg but to me it looks more like 10awg. It runs out the main panel and out thru a hole drilled in the wall into a junction box into gray electrical conduit to the receptacle. The wall covering through out the house is something like shiplap. To run it inside the wall I would have to cut through the wall covering all the way over and the try to patch it back. Can I run the 6/3 with ground through conduit on the inside surface of the wall ? Or would I been to use 4 individual wires through the conduit? Thanks😊
Good work except for the romex running along the length of the wood stud above. Doing that would require you place nail plates along the whole length of the romex as it travels along that wood stud. That would not pass inspection. Better to have notched each of the 2x4 or 1x4 studs across the ceiling and then place nail plates on the notched out area. Thanks for the video. Good audio, good video and explanation.
and direction of wire wrap on ground. especially stranded. always wrap in direction of cinch and twist. its not deadly; till it has no where to go.
@@DRSJawsCo thats not true at all. thats just some local idea. I hate it when people take a general practice and talk like its some kinda code.
Hello can i add a #8 to # 6 wire for my stove? The original wire was #6 but due to move the location of the stove had to add some more wire but got #8 does this affect the voltage thanks
I try to keep the wires at #6, as the #8 can't handle the amperage
Yes you can as long as the you use a breaker that is allowed with #8 gauge wire since that is now the weakest link. This is 50 amps in Canada and is good for pretty much any stove. 6/3 is kinda overkill tbh
I wanted to see the removal of wires/breaker at the panel and the install of the new wiring at the panel. You showed the range end fine but not the panel.
Ok, one day when we do another one of these, we'll show it better on the breaker panel side.
Please thanks
What size romex connector (wire clamp) did you use?
I believe we used the 3/4" size connector. I think we popped out the larger size round opening on the box.
Nice video. I've got a question. Is it code-kosher to run just the ground wire alongside the existing cable instead of running a whole new 4 wire cable?
Yes you can do that and we have done that ourselves too, In one condo project I ran just the ground wire by itself. You can get the green insulated ground wire and then tie it to a wiring fish and fish it down the wall to the outlet box so you don't have to run an entire brand new 6/3 wire.
great video! 👍👍👍
I'm glad you liked it and thanks for watching
What is the wall a bot you refer to?
Here it is on Amazon amzn.to/3l96gTK It's a stud finder that uses your Android phone like an Xray
Just saw this, I fell For the wallabot too😊 use it very rarely, hated all the calibrating😂
@@tedmcdonald3377 ouch, glad you mention
i want to connect a backing oven , it has 6 wires for power. please assist
Sorry, don't know about these, you'll have to check the install manual which should tell you how to handle it.
Seems we are all screwed now, thanks
nice product placement with that Milwaulkee driver drill , but no way you actually used it on the terminals.....That bit falling out every time woulda made me just use an old fashion screw driver too.
Actually that bit only fell out once
ok , I just laughed when it fell out. I hate it when i fight to keep them in an extension ! It just looked a little setup LOL, still a great tool and video !
how many amps does it draw?
that should handle 50 amps
sory i ment to spell how many amps does the oven draw?
@@thunderuncle229 Ovens draw between 30 amps and 50 amps you can't make any generalization about it. You have to find out from the manufacturer of your oven how much it draws and make sure you have the appropriate of the appropriate wires that can handle that load, and the appropriate breaker in the breaker Box that is that is rated to handle that same load.
@@jeffostroff thanks
What did the outlet look like in the end? You never showed it?
That box looked like it wasnt secured very well and was very wiggly.
that "charring" looks suspiciously like an anti-oxidation agent that is applied, by code, to aluminum wire connected to terminals in the panel and meter base. But hey what do I know...
Almost 60 years old, who knows for sure, but we do know it is outta there!
Almost 60 years old, who knows for sure, but we do know it is outta there!
EXACTLY!!!! this is a guy that is likely used to working on new construction, and trained in that, and then went on his own. So as a result, he sees everything older than 3 years ago as woefully out of code and "dangerous"
and then when working with someone that actually HAS the experience working in older environments, he'd be like "you dont know what youre talking about, youre fired"
@@jeffostroff and how old is the buildings you go in? how old is that restaurant, or drs office? Do they need to gut and rebuild every time a code book changes? LOL dude...what the freak, bro.
When connected to a screw the wire has to go in the same direction you tighten it. Clockwise on the ground screw here and not anticlockwise
With that ground wire you saw it was neither clockwise nor counter clockwise, that's why you saw it stay put as we tightened the green screw
Lumex in metal studs?
Yes, it is the norm here in the U.S.
I was only here to see the breaker hookup side and you skipped that....
Great vid Jeff. I hv same situation at home with old aluminum wiring. My question is ...was the 50amp breaker you used a 3-pole?
No this is a 2 Pole switch I can't imagine them every using 3 poll in a residential setting it's overkill usually 3 poll would be used in commercial properties.
No part connecting the wires to the box, the only part I needed because doing a DIY here :/
One day I need to refilm this and show more details
@@jeffostroff thanks, everything else was very good and detailed.
You didn't show the main part of connecting the 4 wire to the electrical panel breaker??? Did I miss something?
For reasons unknown, the video for that scene was never found. Once in a while you think you're recording a video and discover later it was not recording,
Wrong cover on the receptacle box. That cover us for surface mount.
Nothing wrong with the cover
This looks so bad. Your homebrew" deep box" is full of sharp metal edges.
Every single one of these videos which people are only watching to learn which connection goes to which color, you guys skipped right over it. Your video was no different. Why bother
at 7:26, take a close look and freeze frame. The black and red wires don't matter, they go to the X & X port, you'll see on your outlet the engraved letters. Since dryer needs 240 volts differential, it does not matter whether black or red goes to x or y. Notice how they are copper colored screws. Notice how ground wire screw is green. Notice how the white neutral wire goes to the silver colored screw. Next time we shoot one we want to shoot it in 4k video and show this all closeup and explain it all.
So, this is just another point, where you run into problems with your stone-age split-phase distribution systems in the US.
Over here, you just run your stove (4 zones + oven) on 3 phases, usually with 3*16A breakers (rarely, stoves need 20, 25 or 32A, but never 50A).
Not more than a 5*2.5mm² (AWG 13, and the usual case) or 5*4mm² cable (AWG 11) is needed, not AWG 6 at all!
Interesting! i WISH WE DID NOT NEED 50 AMP CIRCUIT BREAKERS IN THE ELECTRICAL PANEL
The video leads you to believe you would show how to wire the panel. Everything but. You should change the header but otherwise informative if I needed that part.
Will change that
You could SEPARATE all the non-electrical chatter to another video. People looking for electrical advice might not be doing drywall, and visa versa.
On a project like this, people want to know how to patch it back up afterward.
Skipped all the wiring. It’s why we came. Ridiculous
Never passes code
Sure it will, no code was violated. If you are going to come in here with a statement like that, you need to back it up with what exact NEC code is violated
That double box its not profesional my friend .... You just made the whole video go wrong and you tied the ground srew to tje right on the box andthe cable was twisted to the left second error
There is absolutely nothing wrong with using the double box, the only thing wrong is your misplaced opinion of what is professional. in fact the boxes are designed for that very purpose, and so is the extender so you are completely wrong about that. This passes code all of the time. You need to have that electrical box deeper sometimes because those range sockets are too deep to be able to get the wires to curve gracefully around behind it so you go ahead and keep jamming and pinching in your giant 6 gauge wires that are supposed to be gracefully turned wires or that's a violation of the National Electric Code. I have no idea what you're talking about the ground screw being wrong. You are supposed to tie the ground screw on to the metal Box and you are supposed to wrap the copper ground wire around that screw on the metal box that is required by National Electric Code that is called bonding the box to the system ground. And if you don't do it this way then you're the one that's doing it wrong and if you think that our method is wrong then you are wrong and you've been doing it wrong, my friend.
He means you wrapped the wire the wrong way around the screw. You should always wrap wire one the same directions you turn the screw to secure it.
@@craigwiley3186 yeah but as thick as that wire is I'm sure it's not as bad as say a 14 awg or 12 etc....
Lol bigger the box the better the fill capacity also less heat binding and more stuff
Fuse box? Where are the fuses? Lmao. Also, nothing on hooking the wires into the circuit breaker box (not fuse box). We went from silly chatter about where the wire was taped to a conduit to "does the range turn on?". This may just be the worst how to video on you tube!!!
We showed you in the video where it was to connect If you don't know how to wire something to the control panel then you shouldn't be doing this and you shouldn't be blaming other people for your lack of knowledge on it working on a control panel is for people with lots of knowledge and experience
So then what is the point of making the video? Ridiculous!
what in the world!?!?!?/ COMPLETELY WRONG!?!?! LOLOLOL Charring!?!? thats not charring! LOL regarding the microwave being on a circuit By itself, that isnt true either. Its not "wrong"
People have their trusty code book that just came out last week, and then deem everything made before it as "completely wrong" and then mock the builder! LOL Whomever this guy is, saw a cha-ching" moment and ran up a friggin bill.
whiny person. You are whining about the National electric code book? The rule is not in the code book, making your uninformed argument a joke, building inspectors here for decades will shut you down and not close out your building permit if you don't have a dedicated 20 amp circuit for microwave. You obviously know nothing, but you're full of hot air trying to impress people with your lack of knowledge no one is buying your fake news. Many requirements are not found in the NEC book.
Microwave is required to be on its own circuit, a 15AMP here in Canada