ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 เม.ย. 2013
- Changing the transmission fluid and filter on a Mercedes w202 chassis c230 with 722.6 5 speed automatic transmission...I was told by MB technicians and independant specialists that the newer and older fluids should not be mixed...I have also read documents that say that they can..you must decide for yourself which information to use since a completely definitive answer doesn't seem to be available..my drain and fill was approximately 3.5 litres..yours may be more or less..
The following fluids are recommended by Mercedes tech document 236.14
Mercedes-Benz Automatik-Getriebeöl MB 236.14
MB 236.14 ATF NAG2VSport A 001 989 68 03
Aral Getriebeöl ATF M14
Fuchs TITAN ATF 4134
LUKOIL ATF SYNTH M 14
Mobil ATF 134
MOTUL ATF 236.14
OMV ATF M plus
Q8 AUTO 25
Shell ATF134
Shell SPIRAX S6 ATF 134M
TUTELA TRANSMISSION STARFLUID 7S
Valvoline SYNPOWER ATF 134 follow me on twitter / fupabox - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Fupabox is one cool dude. How could you not like this fine gentleman? Thanks for all that you do to help others.
2000 C230 Kompressor. I have owned the car nearly six months. Bought it with 136,000 on it. I am guessing the tranny fluid has not been changed. I changed filter and flushed following this procedure. Wow!!! What a difference! The old four cylinder is shifting like new. Thanks for a great video on a job that could really screw up your car if not done correctly.
kylejackson8 Very welcome...glad it helped :)
Hi just done auto filter and fluid along with PAS Pump and fluid on my merc c180 w202 1997 thanks for your time.
+derick slatford very welcome :)
love your vids mate. theres not many people on here that do a really good in depth vid of these cars. i love my w202 and thankyou for the great info you provide.
Kristian Jones very welcome. :)
Did this before on my previous mercedes W201. Now I have to do it on my W202, always nice to see a video where somebody actually is doing it. Also the 3.5liters is nice to know. Man, your oil is expensive, I pay €5 a liter. Thanks, Theo, Netherlands
Wow ..thats a good price .
Good friend of mine is a lifetime MB owner AND dealership tech. He told me it is pointless to change the fluid and filter without doing the torque converter... He said the dealers do, in fact only do the amount in the pan and change the filter. This is something where he and the "procedure" disagree. He has had transmissions come back with slipping issues that were cured after either a flush or a TOTAL fluid change (including the torque converter).
I'm doing this today on my W203.040
Thank you for a very well described process.
Your videos are great..it was just words of caution for this particular case...thanks again..aloha
When I tried to remove my pan today I stripped one of the torx screws. Do you have any advice on removing with out damaging the pan. Replacement screws are $3 fro the dealer so I'm not worried about that.
hey was wondering if u had any input, i have a 1999 c230 kompressor and the gear slipped a few times in the past month for the first time since i got it. I was going about 50-60mph so im assuming about 4th gear and it just gave out and although was still shifted in drive acted as if in neutral therefore there was no response when pushing the pedal, just the engine revving? is this a transmission problem?
Hey man perfect video helped out a lot just wondering if it’s for a C230?
Thanks - you make even the most daunting of tasks look easy! I have almost the same car as you, but mine is a C180 1998/1999, automatic. Do you know where the transmission "part number" is written, e.g. 722.6? I guess the fluid code is "MB 236.14", but unsure if this would apply my vehicle as well.
also is it neccesary to drain the the torque converter also when changing the trans fluid
Thanks again fupabox! Going to check my levels tomorrow!
Great Video. I finally did the same thing to my 2003 w211 E320 (thanks to your video). However, I am having trouble measuring the fluid level. Using the exact same dipstick you have here, whenever I dip it in and pull it back, I find oil traces all over it making it very difficult to tell what exactly the correct level is. I mean, the oil is not evenly distributed over the plastic end of the dipstick (there are dry gaps where there is no signs of fluid). Any help would b greatly appreciated.THNX
Is Pentosin ATF1 any good to use on a 97 sl320? It's made in Germany and Oreilly's website has it down as one that will work for this car.
where do you buy the dip stick?
Thanks - 722.6 it is then. I also noticed that you had the red lock tab on yours - apparently they are originally black, but if you replace the fluid then you can only replace it with a red tab because you can't buy the black ones. That's how you could already tell that somebody had broken the seal on your car before. The lock tab on mine is black however, @ 270000km, so I'm going to do a fluid change myself.
Invest in a fluid evacuation pump with at least an 8 liter capacity. This is extremely useful for oil changes, and you can use it for pulling the fluid out of the pan of the transmission before removing the pan to save yourself a big mess.
Can you help me out? My husband put fluid into the car without draining or anything. He just put it in and now the car smokes after a few minutes of driving. I have no idea what happened that it's doing that now...
The transmission fluid is original and has never been changed. I'd like to squeeze some more life out of the transmission if possible. Do you think a drain and fill / filter change would cause the transmission to fail. I'm not sure if I'd rather try a $150 service or shell out $2,000 for a replacement transmission. With fluid this old, do you think it would be worth draining the pan and torque converter or just the pan?
Hi, dude. I have W211 with the same transmission 722.6. Do you know how to change my fluid? Can i do the same as you?
A week after changing to MaxLife ATF and I can say, without a doubt, the results have been spectacular. Feels like a new car, very noticeably smoother engaging gear from park and shifting through every gear. Particularly 1-2 shift, used to be a bone rattler now I wouldn't even know it happened without looking at the tach. YMMV but I would recommend, hell urge, anyone to give MaxLife a try.
And just wanted to reiterate, the dex III I had in there was less than 10k old, noticed no difference after changing fluid back then
The Stiver I may try that on the SL (old 4 speed) hope I get around to it this year :)
Yeah I never really expected any difference on a 722.4 but it's night and day. I just can't explain how hard my 1-2 shift was before and how smooth and responsive it is now. My C220 drives better than most new cars with under 30k miles I ride in now.
Another 1000 miles in, it has actually continued to improve. I'm using maxlife in all my cars now, from 35k to 270k miles.
The Stiver wow, sounds like I need to get off my butt and re-do my SL with that stuff
Hello again...weather is warming up in the midwest so getting ready to order my transmission pan gasket, filter and I see a front transmission gasket as well in search results. Should I change this as well (circle shaped metal gasket ring with holes in it)? Thanks again in advance love your videos just changed spark plugs today on my C36 after watching that video of yours and cracked one of those brittle vacuum lines grrrr (thankfully cheap).
+mpowers1978 The only think I can think the gasket would be for is the electrical plug seal.. the main pan seal will definately need replacing if you chnge the filter
I have a '99 C280 US-spec with the 722.6. I purchased the car in January of 2006 with 53.000mi(85.000km). Around 2009 it reached 100.000mi(160.000km) and very rarely it would downshift HARD from 2nd to 1st. Since then the problem has gotten to the point where I no longer use 1st gear, I leave the trans. in (W) mode. I took the car out of normal service in 2011 and it sits in the garage now, only driven about 150 miles per month. However I'll be taking the car on a 1000mi (1600km) trip this Fall.
Great video I plan on doing this soon. Did it run any different after. I've smother ? Allan
+Quickstop85 it was a bit smoother. maybe a bit quieter as well
Hey Fupabox I have much respect for you & your videos keep up the good work......but I second about flushing the transmission......if your transmission fluid is extra dirty like mines was I would flush it by the trans line in front of vehicle other wise you will be leaving a lot of dirty transmission fluid in the torque converter & will be changing out the fluid & filter every year.......once I flushed all that old fluid out & started seeing clear transmission fluid my car shifts on point in the winter.....once the weather would get cold my car would not shift until it was warmed up for about 45 min........now it shifts on point.......I purchased a dip stick & the transmission conductive tube with o rings off eBay......now every thing is just fine.....no more leaks & transmission is shifting just fine........never had a check engine light
I notice sometimes you use 4 jackstands. I've only got two good stands. I've had my stands for years, would hate to buy any more of them. thanks in advance!
I am watching you from libya .. plz what the color of the ATF fluid of my car w202 c180?
Thanks for the video. I only have 2 questions. So i can use whichever of the recommended fluids as long as i dont mix the newer with the older? (blue and red?) and where did you buy the filter? did it come with the new gasket? I assume you cant reuse the old one
best bet is to use the valvoline maxlife synthetic. it's backwards compatible with the old fluid and can mix with the old fluid, and can be found anywhere . Mnay chryslers used the same transmission and they sell the filters and gasket at a lower price . You can also order a filter and gasket kit from rockauto shipped to your door .
@@fupabox I live in Europe so I have no idea what that store is but it's ok. I think I'll be able to figure it out. Thank you very much. Your videos have been very helpful. Keep up the great work
Actually there is Fuchs 4134 and Shell ATF 134 available as a direct replacement and alot cheaper but hard to find
@fupabox, not even 2min in and already noticed that you aren't checking with the engine running. You should always check the transmission fluid with the engine running and also I would recommend getting an infrared thermometer to make sure it is ~80deg
Did you eventually watch till the end.. You gotta be patient man
the full fill line would be the one at the top right after the 80°?
Yes.
And how to dismantle bodyvalve sir?
I had the transmission oil line in the front go, slight drip leak. Was on a trip and had no choice but to leave it, let it slowly drip out. Had to stop once, close to home and dump in 1 qt. of ATF4 I grabbed at a store. Was the only option. Anyways, now I have an empty trainy so I can't measure the fluid level. 99 w202 c230k. I found the line at Napa Auto Parts, had them order it to the closest store. I was just going to replace the line and dump fluid back in. Not sure what to use, if I just get some ATF 134 from Napa, whatever brand, or get Mercedes ATF fluid from the dealer...
How can I find out the level? Probably 3.5l as in the video but like you said, needs to be exact. Maybe this job has gone past me doing it myself but I was planning on installing the new line and filling the reservoir. Further research makes me question that now. Any input would help. Thanks!
Rich OBrien Any filling without knowing the level will risk damage to the transmission...if you can get a dipstick to measure the level at operating temperature you can refill (myself I would only use the original fluid for the 722.6 from the dealer, not the maxlife or the atf134 unless the car is newer that 2003...)
Thanks for the input...
That is what I ended up doing, found the parts cheap on Amazon OEM & got the fluid from the dealer. Just waiting for the filter, gasket & cooler line to arrive.
Wanting to drain torque converter as well. Is the fluid within the converter separate from transmission fluid or is it integrated?
it's all part of the same system...the torque converter just retains more of the fluid that has been pumped through it when the car is turned off
***** Suspected it was but needed to make sure. Cheers for your time again
is this the same process for a 1999 w210 e320? Mine has 330k miles on it and plan on doing this and transmission mount myself. Car runs beautifully
also did you notice a shift difference?
yes and yes :)
can you tell me where i can order the dipstick from? I can't find any aftermarket distribution in Australia?
this company ships to Australia
www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA41V1B78734&nm_mc=OTC-Froogle8&cm_mmc=OTC-Froogle8-_-AT%20-%20Hand%20Tools-_-OEM-_-9SIA41V1B78734
***** once again many thanks...keep them coming...I love my merc :))
I'm fixing to do this to mine only problem is my transmission has been leaking so measuring what comes out isnt thing to be the right amount ive watched a couple of videos n seem all of them was replaced with 3.5 to 4 liters what would you recommend me to do I just bought the car also
If you have the dipstick you can measure the amount drained, put the same amount back in ,then check the level with the dipstick to be sure
@@fupabox yes I have a dip stick it was already on the car I guess someone bought one for the it has a clip that locks onto the tube its self but its super low on fluid its barley visible on the dip stick
Thanks for the video. I am refilling mine after a crack in the pan allowed it to drain out so I was not able to measure the amount lost. I also ran the car in park for 20-30 minutes to keep the battery charged. How much would you recommend I put in initially before running it and making adjustments?
VonGutenburgen Stienenhoffer I would add 1 liter + the amount you got out of it..then add more till full when warm
***** Thank you for the response. What do you mean by the amount I got out of it? I wasnt able to catch the fluid so dont know how much leaked out. I'm not particularly experienced in dealing with transmissions as you can probably tell. I'm assuming the fluid would have needed to circulate through the entire system to produce an accurate reading on the dipstick tool. Is this the case?
VonGutenburgen Stienenhoffer I didn't read your question correctly the first time..I guess all the fluid drained out through the crack...in that case start with 4 liters of new fluid ,then warm the car up shifting into all the gears (you can do it without driving..just shift into all the gears while sitting still) once warm check the level with the engine running...you are correct ,the level when running is different than when the engine is off, due to circulation
***** Ok, thanks again for the help. After adding the 4 liters the level is quite a bit above the hot temperature level on the dip stick tool. This is just because I haven't run it yet, right? I have heard the stories of how sensitive these car's transmissions are and what can happen if they are overfilled so sorry if it seems like I'm wasting your time. I'm just very paranoid about this.
VonGutenburgen Stienenhoffer ask as many questions as you need to..not a problem at all...once it warms up and circulates the fluid you need to check the level then, it will tend read higher when cold...it isn't dangerous to idle it overfilled, and move the shifter through the gears....if after checking the level warm it is still too high you can drain it out through the drain plug... a tiny bit messy ,but I've had to do it before a few times when I've added too much..
Hi. Do you have the length that the dipstick should go into the dipstick tube in order to get the proper reading? I have the ebay dipstick and the reader end flexes and I just cant get a consistant reading, I did the fluid change as per and it seems to be smoother as the old fluid was chocolate milk! Ty!
yeah getting a reading can be a bit tricky...just push the dipstick in until it hits bottom, but es it does feel mushy sometimes. I'm not sure the length it goes in till it hits, I can measure mine and let you know
*****
Hi. I figured out the proper depth by using some steel garage door cable that doesnt flex as much. I have another question though...what is the procedure for removing the 2 " body trim on the doors ect for rust repairs? Ty as always!
William Z undo the phillips head screw on the inside of the edge of the door..then the whole door trim slides forward or backwards and pops right out..check this video ..it's the same except no pop clips on the lower edge..just the screw and slide
Mercedes sl R129 door/fender plastic lower cladding/trim removal
***** Oh my you just gotta love how these cars are engineered! Lots of little rust spots gonna drive me more nuts! Now how about the black rubber weatherstrips on the bottom of the doors? Do they pop and slide? Ty as always!
William Z Yeah the water based paint introduced in the mid 1990s wasn't great at preventing rust... If you are talking about the seal that goes all the way around the door it just pulls out of the slot...the thick rubber seal at only the bottom edge is popped in with push clips like on a door panel if I remember correctly
What if the fluid is yellow? As is in my Ssangyong Rexton that has a Mercedes engine and Automatic Triptronic gearbox.
your car has the newer 7 gtronic transmission. I believe it has a yellow coloured fluid . It uses a different fluid than the 722.6 in this video
I've checked the fluid in two w211 E Classes with the 722.6 5 speed auto. One was an 04 E320 and the other was an 08 E350 4matic. The fluid was yellow in both. I was actually wondering why the car in this video had red fluid. As mentioned in the video, the pan had been dropped before because one of the bolts was different so I'd guess the previous owner had changed the fluid and used a red fluid. IDK I can assure you that the yellow fluid is completely normal though.
Can I use Castrol dex as atf fluid. Says 236.6 mb approved on the can
Not sure on that one . 236.10 and 236.12 are the only approved data sheets for the 722.6
@@fupabox those are very expensive to use on a really old car? So basically no alternative besides mb oio
First of all, thank you for all your videos, you are great. I have a Mercedes W202 C220, with an automatic transmission, this past week there were times when I lost fourth gear, and drove only in third gear. After a while at a constant driving, I began to lose and third gear also, car switched to the 2nd gear like I pressed kick down, but I did not. Maybe you could help. Thank you in advance.
hope this all pastes into the answer..if not send me a private message....
TROUBLE SHOOTING
TRANSMISSION SLIPS IN ALL GEARS
Incorrect modulating pressure. Modulating pressure control
valve or pressure relief valve is dirty or sticking. Vacuum line to
transmission vacuum capsule clogged or leaking. Working pressure
control valve dirty or sticking. Low working pressure. Defective
primary pump.
Transmission Slips When Starting Off In 1st Or 2nd (Reverse
Is Okay)
Band B-2 shift valve sticking. Band B-2 piston worn or
damaged. Band B-2 adjusted incorrectly or worn or damaged. Adjust
brake band B-2 by installing a longer thrust pin (if necessary). If
transmission operates properly with selector lever in "2", but not in
"3" or "D" position, one-way clutch may be slipping.
Transmission Slips In 2nd Gear Or Shifts From 1st To 3rd Gear
Check control valve B-1 for ease of operation. Replace valve
body (if necessary). Remove and install brake band piston B-1, check
sealing ring and replace (if necessary). Replace brake band B-1 and
thrust body for B-1. Command valve binding.
Transmission Slips During 2-3 Upshift Or Slips Initially,
Then Grabs Hold
Check modulating pressure and adjust (if necessary). Check
for temperature throttle installation (if equipped). Valve body worn
or damaged. Replace valve body (if necessary). Replace inner plates of
clutch K-1 or recondition clutch (if necessary). Check front cover
Teflon ring.
TRANSMISSION SLIPS DURING 3-4 UPSHIFT
Check and adjust modulating pressure. Governor damaged or
working pressure incorrect. Valve body worn or damaged. Replace valve
body (if necessary). Check Teflon rings supporting clutch K-2. Replace
inner plates of clutch K-2 or recondition clutch (if necessary).
INTERMITTENT NO 5TH GEAR
Check loose connections at throttle valve switch. Check for
poor or loose wiring connections between TCM and transmission. See
WIRING DIAGRAMS. Ensure proper TCM is installed.
NO 5TH GEAR OR TRANSMISSION SHIFTS TO 5TH UNDER LOAD
Check and repair vacuum line between intake manifold and
ignition control unit.
NO POSITIVE ENGAGEMENT IN REVERSE
Check plates and sealing rings on brake B-3 piston. Replace
if necessary.
HARSH ENGAGEMENT WHEN SHIFTING GEARS
Incorrect working pressure. Check and adjust modulating
pressure. Check vacuum line and connections for leaks. On vehicles
equipped with diesel engines, check vacuum control valve. Coolant
entering transmission oil cooler and contaminating transmission fluid .
Replace radiator. If necessary, replace all friction linings and/or
replace transmission.
HARSH ENGAGEMENT WHEN SELECTING "D" OR "R"
Idle speed too high. Check pressure receiving (pick-up)
piston in valve body for ease of operation and correct installation.
Replace valve body (if necessary).
NOTE: Pressure pick-up requires a running period of approximately
2 seconds. Harsh engagement may occur during repeated shifts
between "N" and "D". If harshness takes place within 2
seconds, condition is considered normal.
HARSHNESS ON 4-3 DOWNSHIFT
Sealing ring on release end of band B-2 worn or damaged. Band
B-2 piston worn or damaged. Band B-2 thrust body damaged.
CHATTER DURING UPSHIFT
Valve body malfunction. Check and repair or replace valve
body.
WILL NOT UPSHIFT
Incorrect governor pressure. Defective governor assembly.
Check for stuck kickdown solenoid or for constant voltage to solenoid
caused by a defective fuel pump relay or sticking kickdown switch.
Valve body dirty or valves sticking. Repair or replace valve body.
UPSHIFTS AT HIGHER SPEEDS THAN SPECIFIED
Check pressure control cable engagement, condition and
adjustment. Check for stuck kickdown solenoid or for constant voltage
to solenoid caused by a defective fuel pump relay or sticking kickdown
switch. Check governor pressure. If regulator pressure is too low,
replace centrifugal governor. Ensure control pressure regulating valve
is operable.
UPSHIFTS AT LOWER SPEEDS THAN SPECIFIED
Check pressure control cable engagement, condition and
adjustment. Check full throttle stop by accelerating engine and
ensuring throttle valve rests against full throttle stop. Readjust
throttle stop (if necessary). Check governor pressure. If governor
pressure is too high, replace centrifugal governor. Repair or replace
valve body.
NO KICKDOWN
Check throttle control and pressure control cable engagement,
condition and adjustment. Connect kickdown solenoid to battery and
check for proper operation. Replace solenoid (if necessary). Check
kickdown valve in valve body. Replace valve body (if necessary).
NO 4-3 OR 3-2 DOWNSHIFT
Control pressure cable out of adjustment. Leaking vacuum
hoses and/or connections. Ensure brake shaft piston is operable.
Replace valve body (if necessary).
UNCONTROLLED DOWNSHIFTS OUTSIDE RANGE OF KICKDOWN SWITCH
Remove kickdown solenoid. Check "O" ring on kickdown solenoid
for damage. Check kickdown switch for sticking in pushed-in position.
Replace switch (if necessary). Check for kickdown solenoid stuck in
opened position. Replace kickdown solenoid (if necessary).
POOR ACCELERATION FROM STOPPED POSITION
Check stall speed. If stall speed is 400-700 RPM less than
specified value, one-way clutch in torque converter is slipping.
Replace torque converter (if necessary).
PARKING PAWL WILL NOT ENGAGE
Check rear engine mount . Replace engine mount (if necessary).
Check adjustment of selector rod. Adjust selector rod (if necessary).
SELECTOR LEVER DOES NOT ENGAGE IN "R" OR "P"
With engine running, clean centrifugal governor and ensure
correct operation. With engine not running, check operation of detent
piston in lower cover.
ENGINE WILL NOT START IN "P" OR "N" POSITION
Adjust shift rod and starter lock-out switch. Replace starter
lock-out switch (if necessary).
SMOKE IN EXHAUST (FLUID LOSS)
Diaphragm in vacuum control unit defective. Transmission oil
is being drawn from engine through vacuum line. Replace vacuum control
unit (if necessary).
FLUID LOSS BETWEEN TORQUE CONVERTER & PRIMARY PUMP
Seal torque converter oil drain plug. If leak continues,
replace radial sealing ring and "O" ring on primary pump. Check
primary pump "O" ring groove for porosity. Replace primary pump (if
necessary).
HOWLING NOISE WHEN CHANGING GEARS (UNDER FULL LOAD)
Replace transmission oil filter.
HOWLING NOISE WHICH INCREASES AS ENGINE RPM INCREASES
Check primary pump and replace if necessary.
1ST GEAR & REVERSE TOO LOUD
Replace front planetary gear set. Reverse and 1st gear are
louder than forward (driving) gears due to gear reduction. If noise
seems too loud, or if in doubt, a similar vehicle should be used for
comparison.
3RD GEAR TOO LOUD
Replace rear planetary gear set.
RATTLING NOISE AT 1500 RPM IN ALL POSITIONS EXCEPT "R"
Brake B-3 plates are vibrating in transmission housing.
Replace brake B-3 plates, install damper spring and set release
clearance to minimum value.
LIGHT GRINDING NOISE IN "P" & "N" POSITIONS
This condition is normal if a "rolling" noise of front
planetary gear set is heard. If noise seems too loud, or if in doubt,
a similar vehicle should be used for comparison.
"ROLLING" NOISES WHEN DRIVING IN REVERSE
Disc brake B-3 release clearance too great. Adjust release
clearance to .06-.08" (1.5-2.0 mm) or replace disc brake plates.
Outside plate carrier of clutch K-1 contacts piston.
Primary Pump Bushing Loosens After A Short Operating Period -
Dowel pins for centering transmission to engine are not in place.
Did I miss the link for the oil? 99 C280
Gerard Fabian Alvarez bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolistenmain.php?navigation_path=bevolisten&blatt=236.14&content_action=show
When I check the fluid level with engine off and cold it shows just above the cold mark on the stick. What I don't understand is when i start it the fluid will drop to just below the cold mark and will stay at that level even after it has heated up idling for 10 minutes or so and the level does not change even if I shift into all the gears. Originally I had slightly overfilled the transmission but have sense drained what I thought would be more than enough fluid. Could this somehow be some excess fluid from when it was overfilled that hasn't fallen back into the system and marks the end of the dipstick? I have no idea who the system works but I'm at a loss. Thank you for your help in the past I hope to hear from you again soon.
+Pete Rooster The only accurate check is with the engine running, after about a 15 -20 minute drive. as long as the fluid is then at the mid range of the hot mark..it is good . The cold mark is only to check that there is actually fluid in the transmission..it isn't at all accurate in gauging the proper level.
+fupabox I understand that is the only way to get an accurate reading but was trying to get the fluid to roughly the correct level before driving it at all so I don't cause any damage. Is there a way to adjust the fluid without driving it or would you recommend to go ahead and drive it as is.
+Pete Rooster if the fluid is in the cold level when the engine is cold and shut off, you will be okay to go warm it up...just don't drive on the hwy or accelerate quickly..just gently drive for 15-20 minutes..I test drove one once that was way overfilled...on the highway the overflow valve on the tranny ,puked about 1 liter of fluid onto the hot catalytic converters...smoke everywhere like it was on fire...it wasn't noticeably flowing out until we hit highway speeds..LOL I didn't buy that car :)
+fupabox Thats crazy man. I had some unique experiences when I was looking for mine but nothing like that. Some people will try to sell you anything. So when I check the dipstick with engine not yet run it's in the cold markings and it sounds like this means its ok to drive. I really thought it was under filled though. What may be some signs of this I can look out for in case it is? I'll most likely be keeping in the neighborhood so I can take it right back if I need to and please forgive my hesitance I'm just really on edge about this. I really appreciate the advise.
+Pete Rooster if the level is really low it will have a hard time shifting between gears. if it is in the cold marking when cold you will be ok.
What ATF do you rec'd for the 722.4 trans? The spec is dex III but after 10k miles on generic ATF it seems like shifting is a little harsher.. What do you think about valvoline maxlife?
the 722.4 doesn't like Dex III Dex II like this one www.opieoils.co.uk/p-745-castrol-atf-dex-ii-multivehicle-formerly-castrol-tq-d.aspx
try to get the Dex III out before it eats the tranny...Mercedes has no recomendation regrding the Maxlife that I can see
Oh no! What happened to backwards compatibility? Apparently the fluid specs I got weren't exactly for my car, and now I see the sheet for my car has dex ii-d products, except for redline synthetic. Everyone says Maxlife is great for the 722.6 even tho it's not spec'd and also good for my 722.4. Is there a better fluid you'd suggest other than old dex ii I'd have to hope to keep finding online years from now?
fups you're right about dex III, problem is dex II is no longer sold in US. Redline used to make the only synthetic II-D and it was even on the 236.6/.7 sheet that was in my glovebox, apparently their newer D4 is good to use. Most say use Mobil 1. Found this: "These transmissions were built at that time for use with "ATF IID" developed oils.
It has already been noted several times that, for example, ATF III contains something "aggressive" and can dissolve the brake bands, which leads to slip when shifting."
I would use dex II if I could find it but it's not cost effective to pay for shipping from UK every year or two (changes every 30-60k @ 30k mi/yr). I could see it differently for an older and more valued car that doesn't rack up high miles. I'll see what MB says. If the dealer has fluid for 722.4 for a halfway reasonable price I'll buy it but I heard they use 722.9 fluid or Mobil 1 d/m. Otherwise I gotta just see how it goes with whatever else. If the trans goes bad I've heard I can rig up an older manual trans right?
I've put 10-15k hard miles in 6-9 months on generic dex/merc and shifting has gotten firmer, on a trans known for stiff shifts as it is. The fluid I replaced was clean and based on what I know about the PO it was generic ATF too. They were using the wrong coolant and motor oil viscosity too ..
it is necessary to drain the oil from the torque converter...1.5 L..ATF
The sound is pretty weak...very low. My volume is up to max.
How many liters of ATF without draining the converter?
yeah I'm also having youtube sound probs... seems some vids barely audible, then if you watch the next day they are fine ? this one is loud on my laptop..go figure .. for a drain and fill, without TC drain.. figure around 4-5 liters..
Thanks
I replaced my transmission oil on my W202 C280. New gasket new filter when I was pouring the oil back in the oil was pouring all around the pan. I didn’t have any leaking problems before hand but after putting the pan back in I couldn’t get a good seal. I was using a good torque wrench and everything was clean. I ended up buying a new pan new gasket new filter and try again. I’m just wondering if anyone else has run into this problem
On W211 you don't have drain plug in torque converter, so you can use this procedure, but you'll change only 50% of oil.
HI. i have an w202 99model. 1.8 122ps with automatic gearbox. how many khm i must change oil in gearbox. thank you
I try to change it every 40-50k miles .. 60-80k km
fupabox thank you
Fupa, what about doing this and also suck oil with an oil extractor pump from dipstick?
Like this:
1 Drop the pan, clean, change gasket.
2 Suck with extractor from dipstick
3 Refill and go for a ride
4 repeat 2 and 3 as necessary
do you think this can work?, also seems like a rookie friendly method, torque converter fluid cant be accessed like this tho, but I think it can get more fluid than just with the pan.
cheers
an extractor won't remove any more oil than dropping the pan...when you remove the pan you will see the dipstick where it comes down and almost touches the pan..so removing the pan leaves no more for the extractor to suck up
You're right, so it won't get more fluid,but it could be a good lazy fluid change method, turkey baster like with more percentage of fluid renewal (not as cheap though).
akafede you could do it if you didn't want to change the filter.. extract the fluid cold and replace with the same amount...I would rather change the filter at the same time, but it would e better than leaving old fluid in
I use a Topsider for oil changes and was wondering the same thing. Challange would be cleanliness as all the parts of the Topsider are oil drenched. New hoses and some sort of quick release would work. Ill post once I do it. Turkey baster will make you crazy by the time you remove all that fluid. I just used one on the power steering pump and it ends up a mess no matter how careful you are. Way too many individual transfers of fluid. Good luck. If you don't hear from me it's because I lost the link to the video. It happens.
You shoild have drained the torque converter. Done mine on the weekend and another litre came out.
Not all 722.6 torque converters have a drain bolt . If you are changing on a regular basis it isn't necessary
Anyone know what mm in the red zone was I have a Miller tool but I don't know the hot and cold like the one he had mine just has every 10mm
fupabox ok I'm working on a 06 Dodge Charger Daytona rt when the cars at op temp arond 150 it looked like it was at like 80 but it was hard to read the stick after the first check all the other time it was just smeared all over the stick
sounds like it may be overfilled..or the dipstick you are using is dragging fluid up into the dipstick tube
Ok thanks well hopefully see what's up in the am... :-(
I torqued my pan to 10 ft/lbs per bolt with a new gasket but I see a lot of oil leaking from the gasket. What could be the problem?
torque is deceiving.. 10lbs is spec under perfect conditions,, new bolts with new threads in the bolt hole and no dirt or rust.. the specs for torque are fine when you are up in the 60-70 lbft range or higher, but low specs like the 10 lbs for the pan bolts are only really a reference.. snug them all up a tiny bit more and the leaks should disappear
thank you!
If all fails use rtv ,sometimes the mating surfaces get gapped and warped,the regular gasket may not be flexible enough to fill those gaps,but rtv will.I use red hi temp rtv on tranny and differential covers.
FML i serviced my transmission a few months ago and put dex III fluid and now my transmission is stuffing up and shacking the fluids is a black color
what do i do ??? thanks
grab 2 gallons of the Mercedes fluid and a new filter..take it to a transmission shop and get them to completely flush and refill the tranny..if you are lucky you may save it...the dex 3 eats the linings of the clutch packs
Shit thanks where can I get some Mercedes oil ? Any other tips ?
the dealership will have the proper fluid...some parts stores carry it,but not sure which ones...autopartsway.com had it at one time for much cheaper than the dealership
THERE IS A BOLT DIRECTLY UNDER THE MODULATOR TO THEVRIGHT IS LEAKING CAN THIS BE TAKEN OUT AND FIXED 85 380 SE
is it on the very bottom of the oil pan ? what size bolt head ?
I have w202 i want to change oil transmission but i dont know how much oil i need . Please help
i ask in magazine they say 5 litres for automatic oil transmision :) and i think you need to buy new filter i need to change my car to C220 Diesel 1996 ;)
You can just find out from the manufacturer spec online on how much transmission fluid to refill.
I have 99 c280 sport it has 164,000 miles on it i don't think transmission fluid has been changed I looked at the fluid it was a bit brown should I change it?
yes
I'm just worried man I love this car I've heard it could have particles in it already and it would screw up the transmission if I change it should I change the filter or just do a flush
Firas Saleh no flush... just drain and refill with a new filter, and you will be fine
Ok cool because it shifts really good don't even feel it shifting just wanna keep it that way. Thanks
If the fluid level is off could it be harmful to the car to start it and shift it into the different gears
Pete Rooster unless it is completely empty , no... as long as you don't drive with a really improper fluid level
thank you
Dosnt the torque converter have a drain plug too which you should drain the fluid from for the complete flush?
Or is this on particular years?
Thanks buddy
Hummmmm ... Should the engine be running when you check the transmission fluid???
+D Hubbard Yes.. as I said in video though..I turned it off so I wouldn't have to yell over a running engine
+fupabox Oh, Do you mean the little box in the lower right hand corner that briefly popped up?
Anyway, thanks for the video it was helpful.
Anyway to tighten the bands on that puppy without preforming major surgery?
D Hubbard Yeah I guess I have to check that pop up box..wasn't working..thanks for pointing it out...heres the full service manual for the 722.6..might have some info for you..I haven't adjusted any bands on them.. www.lx.abodiesonline.com/Manuals/NAG1%20Manual.pdf
I just replaced it with the same spec as Mobil1 3309 that similar with Toyota T-IV
Well unfortunately, my torque converter does NOT have a drain plug... So I was forced to do only the 4 quarts in the pan and the filter only today. SO, I may do a power flush next time I do the filter and fluid change.
I like your videos, and gave it thumb up, BUT:
-722.6 contains 9.3 liters of fluid, you changed 3.5, video should be called transmission fluid dilute....
-you need to replace oil in torque converter too....
-oil level in this transmission is ABSOLUTELY CRITICAL, yet first you measure it with engine off, than engine on,..thats not correct..in this case you must provide exact condition while measuring, otherwise this service can do harm to transmission....
Wishing you luck,
have a nice day
ALOHA
These are the compatible hits I get on autohausaz.com for a 96 C36. I don't see either on your list? Either of these work?
1) Meyle ATF - 0019892103 MY- For MB models up through 722.6XX 5 speed automatic transmission, NOT 7 speed transmission.
2) Valvoline 324-Full synthetic (I'm thinking this one isn't compatible?)
Of course the Mobil ATF 134 is probably easily obtainable. My question is the 722.605 (C36 transmission the same as on your car or compatible with same transmission fluids?)
+mpowers1978 Your c36 came with the 722.4 transmission which used different fluids.. heres the list of approved fluids bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/236.9_en.html
+fupabox Good stuff...thank you!
+mpowers1978 Fupa I trust the 234.14 fact sheet is for the 722.4 transmission, but I have to ask how do you know this or find this? I've been searching for 20 minutes online to match up the 234.14 sheet to 722.4 transmission? Please advise. Thanks again!
I asked my local dealer which list to use.. he said 234.14 Here is the main BEVO list that 234.14 comes from... TONS of reading bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/bevo-sheets-sort1.html
+fupabox Am I losing my mind here? why does link you had in first response go to 236.9 now? 234.14 sheet is the correct one,yes?
what about torque converter draining plug.. it is next and you didn't even touch it...strange
+Joe Vip As I said in the vid, I did the service as recommended by my dealership, and a very highly regarded local Mercedes independent garage . They do not recommend draining the converter, so I didn't .
@@fupabox usually,draining and filling the torque converter fixes things like slippage and overheating of tranny.I've done torque drains on other vehicle and worked like gang busters.a lot of old,worn out fluids reside in the TC.
dont have a drainplug
Mercedes customer support says: "Mercedes-Benz USA approves the use of Mercedes-Benz transmission fluid Dextron III or IV for the 1996 C220.
Best wishes for future safe and pleasant driving."
Pffft. Well. I'm going to go full synthetic.
The Stiver LOL yeah I guess it's ok to use the DEX 3 ..let me know how it feels/works once you do it
Yeah I wasn't too impressed with that answer. I had some dexron VI left over from my mom's '12 Chevy I was going to try but valvoline says MaxLife uses the same synthetic base stocks as VI just with their own additive package. So we'll see what happens with MaxLife.
MaxLife is only $17/gal (~$4.50/L) at WalMart! Literally just a few cents more than valvolines basic dex/merc. Too early to tell a difference, but I had very clean and half new dex III to start with so it's not like comparing to old fluid
Oh and idk if you remember me asking you about some idle/a/c/fan issues... Turns out my voltage regulator was within a tenth of a mm of its life. That could have been bad.
Hi how are you doing, well I hope. I got a ban to spray my car in so I rubbed it down fixed all the marks and scuffs then waited for my friend, but he works away alot so I primed the car out side my house. I'm getting to the good bit now I went round to the barn so the car could be masked up ready for spraying. On arrival my friends mum came out and told me to go away as it's her barn and no one can use it, so I have had to base coat it on the road out side my house not the best job I have ever done I will post you some pic's this week. Don't laugh too loud.
lol...sounds like pain in the butt.. send me some pics :)
by the way, buying the overpriced mercedes fluid isnt necessary, any ATF+4 fluid will do.
you can look this up, there was some pretty serious research into chrysler fluids and how they were developed/branded. all ATF+4 is basically the same
there should be 8 liters of oil not 3.5 .... this AGB has got in it 8 liters of it !
one of the best for MB is Ravenol oil.
8 liters is the total capacity..as I mentioned in the video this is a transmission fluid drain and refill as done in the dealership..not a torque converter drain..3.5 liters is what was removed , that amount was added once the filter was changed and then the level rechecked...never heard of Ravenol, I'll check it out, thanks
ó
Looks like someone pirated this video of yours Fupabox. th-cam.com/video/PL07lm9rKFE/w-d-xo.html
I've had this happen to me as well just giving you a heads up so feel free to delete this comment when you report them.
+mpowers1978 thanks...that's 10 pirated this week.. I'll report it :)
+mpowers1978 yikes.. he took all 500 of my vids... appreciate the heads up
+fupabox ughh what a pain ...sorry man
This video is totally for nothing!!! By this procedure you'll change only 50% of oil. It's totally amateur. If you have drain plug in torque convert you'll drain out the rest of oil. If you don't have this plug you have to use other procedure!
Bad video quality !
no it does not make sense to all of this work:)