Tip #4 - want to keep your transmission happy...keep your tires inflated properly - managing the rolling resistance by properly maintaining tire pressures is priceless (and free).
True, Best way to see the effect of improper tire pressure is with a bicycle...how much harder you have to work when the pressure is even a little low.
In 2005 I was driving a 2000 Ford Explorer 4wd. My wife and I were going from Texas to norther Utah to see relatives. It was a long trip, about 1500 miles each way, so I decided to have a fully synthetic engine oil change. While changing the oil, the owner of the shop told me he could flush my entire transmission with completely new transmission fluid. I said ok. On the way home, going up a hill, it started slipping. I went back to the shop and told them they put too much fluid in. They checked it and said it was fine. I siphoned off two quarts using 3/8" plastic tubing in Jackson Wyoming. It was still slipping. I nursed it this way for two years avoiding jack rabbit starts and eventually paid $1700 to get it rebuilt. I will never flush again.
Heard a lot of horror stories about flushes, sound alike it just pushed crap into places it wouldn’t normally find. Keeping it simple seems to be the way ahead, drain what you can and replace with a like amount.
So talking to 2 master-mechanics, theres the right and wrong way of flushing.. right way is making sure fluid is used but not burnt. Wrong way is changing fluid thats too old/burnt, and/or using solvents or cleaners in the flush machine. My car has 200k miles, just did a flush a few weeks ago.. runs flawlessly, but my fluid was not burnt at all and I made sure they only replaced my old fluid with new, nothing else.
I change the transmission fluid on my 2011 Accord every 30,000 miles like the book says. (I have never flushed it). It has 434,000 miles and it drives like the day I bought it from the dealer.
@@razorraysolarsavings70 at 349,000 now, still shifting like a champ. Everytime I drive it on a pretty long drive, I think, “is this gonna be the trip that it gives out.” It’s simply a matter of time, but it’s been a good one.
My last car showed some hesitation in the transmission at 58K miles. The manufacturer says the fluid is lifetime, but i know that really means “lifetime of the transmission.” After doing research, I drained the fluid, replaced both filters, cleaned the pan really well, and replaced the fluid. This was about half of the total fluid, since the other half was in the torque converter. I then drove it a few hundred miles before changing the fluid a second time. This was faster because I left the pan alone. At this point the transmission had 25% old fluid and 75% new. Then I drove 3000 miles and did a third fluid change. I think the long highway miles on 3/4 new fluid cleaned out the fine passageways in the transmission because there were more contaminants than I expected to find. However, the car drove and shifted very well after this third change. I’m glad I didn’t do a flush, as this gradual replacement of fluid felt more natural and gentle, giving the machine time to get used to a progressively cleaner environment over time instead of shocking it all at once. I recently bought a late model car with only 3000 miles. I plan to change the transmission fluid and filter at 30,000 miles and every 30,000 miles thereafter.
I disconnected the transmission cooler line to the radiator, started the engine and poured in fresh fluid as it ran. My transmission was clunking during shifts. After I completely flushed, the fluid, the transmission operated beautifully.
Lifetime fluid means life of the warranty. Test it and change it as needed. CVT's in particular really need it changed when it deteriorates. Heavy towing and weather extremes affect your change intervals. Not a big fan of flushing, drain, change filter, should be good to go. Always use the correct fluid, and some are very pricy eg CVT fluids.
I purchased my 2008 Pontiac Grand Prix new. I've flushed the transmission every 50k, religiously, and it shifts perfectly with over 230k miles. I pulled a loaded 4x8 trailer from Albuquerque to Boston through the mountains, and it never skipped a beat. Prevention is always better than a cure. 😊
For those who want a Complete (Trans, Torque Converter, and Radiator-cooler) fluid exchange vs an approx 40% pan exchange, the following 2007 RAV4 approach SHOULD be applicable to Most makes and models: 1.) Remove the plastic shield under the front of the vehicle. Note, new assorted plastic push-clips are recommended. 2.) The radiator cooler transmission fluid out-fall is on the drivers side approx 3/4" OD, 3/8" ID rubber hose with spring clasp clamp -- EASY to see and access! 3.) Disconnect the hose and attach an extension line to a translucent 1gal jug in an catch pan (for overflow/spills). 4.) The steel return line may drip into a second catch pan. 5.) Snuggly attach a clear extension line to the dip-stick tube with a funnel. (I inserted a clear plastic kitchen "baster" keeping the refill level from overflowing at top of the "baster"/funnel). 6.) Start the engine and put in gear (automatic) until approx 1/2 gal OLD is collected and turn off engine. 7.) Fill approx 1/2 gal NEW. 8.) Repeat for approx 2 1/2 gals until bright pink is dispensing. 9.) Reattach radiator/trans Return line. 10.) Adjust fluid level to the low side of the "Cold" mark on dip-stick (so you can top-off to the Hot mark). 11.) Drive vehicle until transmission is up to approx 115 deg. F and adjust fluid level to "Hot" mark. 12.) Reattach the plastic shield using new plastic push-pins. 13.) This should replace the Trans, Torque Converter, and Radiator Cooler with ALL New Fluid. NOTE: For Sealed transmissions attach an extension line with funnel to the steel Return line (instead of the non-existent "dip-stick tube"). Happy motoring!
Excellent presentation here! Old retired tech here and I am a big believer in regular maintenance. I've seen first hand what dirty old fluids do to hydraulic systems!
also a good tip is to not put it in gear immediately after starting it in winter because the rpms are around 1200 and thats too high to engage gear safely without ANY damage . same for summer really
Interesting comments on here whether to change the fluid or just leave alone. I'm on my 2nd Honda Accord and my previous one definitely appreciated a transmission fluid change. The gears were so much improved, it changed up/down so much better (Auto of course).
I ran a car repair business for 47 years. My 69 GTO convertible that I bought in 1971 had 40K on it when I bought it. I changed the fluid and filter and it worked fine for two weeks and went completely out. I had the car towed to a trans shop run by an elderly man who had been in the business for 40 years. I asked him why the trans failed and he told me it happened because I changed the fluid. At 18 years old I learned to leave automatic transmissions alone and just run them till they fail. I still own the GTO 52 years later and it still shifts perfectly at 165,000 miles with it's 52 year old fluid and filter. My 99 Ford Expedition that has always been used for towing an 8,000 lb. trailer has 340,000 miles on it and the trans has never been touched, still original fluid and shifts perfectly. One of my employees owned a 35 foot GMC motorhome and he was well aware of my stance on NOT changing trans fluid. He went on a Colorado vacation and his 30,000 mile motorhome developed an ignition miss that was a bad plug wire. The service writer at the dealership talked him into servicing the transmission. He left the dealership, drove 200 more miles and his transmission went completely out. He was so embarrassed by his stupidity after all I had taught him that it was years before he would admit to me what he did. My Lincoln Town Car transmission has 280 K on the original fluid and it shifts perfectly. The only transmission I have had to get overhauled in millions of miles of driving was my GTO transmission. I know I am right, I've got over 50 years of data that proves my case.
You are exactly right! My 2011 Tacoma has 202,000 miles on it and I won't even think about changing the fluid. No slip, hesitation or shutter! Trans. has never been serviced.
I was starting to get transmission shudder before I changed the fluid at 125,000 miles. I added Lube Guard Instant Fix, and the shudder is completely gone. It shifts as good as new. I highly recommend Lube Guard Instant Fix. The Toyota dealer wanted over $300 to change the fluid in my 2012 Camry, and more than $700 to do a flush. They would not even replace the filter. I flushed it and changed the filter for about $100, though it is a lot of work. Changing the fluid and flushing it isn't all that hard, but it was difficult to access one bolt to drop the pan to replace the filter.
@@cjsteele9594 There is no logical reason that flushing it is bad. It's foolish to leave three quarts of dirty fluid in it and mix five quarts of good fluid with it. No one would change engine oil or any other gearbox oil that way.
Crazy isn't it. A Toyota dealer here in Tampa wanted 300 dollars to change about 3 quarts of transmission fluid, no filter. Seriously we are talking about 35 dollars of ATF and an over priced 9 dollar transmission pan bolt gasket.
Yes ! I have the front and rear differential, transfer case and transmission fluid changed every 30K miles on our 4WD pickup. Both our Outback and Forester have the front and rear differential and transfer case fluids changed every 30K miles as well, but our Subaru mechanic recommends that we change the CVT transmission fluid changed every 60K miles. Subaru recommends that the CVT transmission fluid Never to be changed because the fluid is “lifetime”, which means without the fluid being changed every 60K miles, the CVT transmission will fail and CVT transmission’s cannot be rebuilt, so you’ll have to buy a new one for the “small” price of $8K. I also have the oil and filter changed every 5K miles with Kirkland (Costco) full synthetic oil. Subaru recommends to change the oil and filter every 6K miles. Kirkland full synthetic motor oil flows quicker in sub zero temperatures than any other synthetic oil. During our winter months our average daytime temperatures are 20-25 degrees F. Our 2011 Ford Ranger XLT super cab 4WD pickup is mainly used for work around our property, (it currently has only 36K miles and will soon be 13 years old). I change the oil and filter every 6 months, again with Kirkland full synthetic oil. Because we don’t drive our pickup often, in 6 months we put about 1,500 miles on it. At our age, our Ranger will probably be the last pickup we’ll ever have to own. We’ve been driving Ranger’s since they first came out in the 80s. This is our 4th Ranger. They’ve been proven to be durable little pickups. When the Ranger’s first came out, they were actually a rebadged Mazda. The old Ford Courier pickups were Mazda. The new Ranger’s are Ford products. The original 2.3L 4cyl were bulletproof engines. Our 84 and 88 Ranger’s were worked hard. We put over 300K miles on our 84 and almost 450K miles on our 88 Ranger. We had a 1990 but it had the 3.0L V6 and when it had only 80K miles, it started burning a LOT of oil, so we sold it and went back to driving our 88. The 88 was still running like new when my wife didn’t have it in 4WD, hit a patch of ice and flipped it in a ditch. We bought it back from our insurance company (it was totaled). My father in law was able to straighten the cab enough to replace the windshield, so the 88 became a ranch pickup. The electrical system fried on it at almost 450K miles so that was the end of our 88. In 19 we were needing a small pickup again so we started looking around and found our current Ranger with only 20K miles. It booked out for $22K, but we bought it for $18K. If you take good care of your vehicles and maintain them, you’ll easily get 250K - 350K miles from them.
You give good advice, especially about following the car's owner manual for any/all maintenance, and don't say you bought a used vehicle that doesn't have an owner's manual, they can always be found/purchased from the car dealer or the internet. Best advice I can give is, if it ain't broke - don't fix it.
The biggest problem i have found with automatics, the valve body get gummed up, and causes the valves to move slow, which causes the clutches slip when going into gear.
Back in the late 1970s I was told by many a mechanic (they were just beginning to become technicians) never mess with a transmission if it is working, Never service it regardless of the "Service/Maintenance" Schedule. To do so might upset its balance or knock something loose. The origin of "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."? Mere ADDING fluid was ok, but heaven forbid taking one apart. Many shops swapped bad units for rebuilt. Then they could take their time repairing and then testing a bad one.
My truck has an Allison transmission and the manufacturer says 100,000 miles for a fluid and filter change. But I pull as camper and boat so I changed the fluid and external filter at 50,000 miles.
Friction modifier can help when flushes prevent tranz from functioning properly. I have services transmissions and after changing or flushing them would not operate. Had to add friction modifier or add BACK old fluid.
Short answer YES. I've had hard shifting on my 1997 Lexus LS400 and it cured it with 215K. Have a bout 300k on it now with no transmission issues. Have a Ford 150 with 100k with the same problem but worse. Transmission flush cured it. 1999 Grand Marquis. Had to do it twice in it's 250K Cured it both times. Maybe not all cars and if you have too many miles. But, in my case, it worked, no doubt about it.
Very important here if you have an old car over 10 years old and you don’t know when the fluid or ever the fluids been done. Do not get a flush just ask for a change and you should be fine. Reason for this is if you get a fluid change all the mechanic will do is drop the oil pan change the filter and put new fluid back in the same amount that came out. That’s probably best for older vehicles. When the fluid gets old it gets a little dirty and will leave some junk floating around if the transmission still shifts and operates properly you could screw it up with a full flush the new fluid might effect the shifting. So older cars get a fluid change if the cars been kept up too date on services get a flush.
@@williamgomez5876 when you flush it takes all transmission fluid out even the stuff that's left in the transmission, when you Just change it you Just change whats in the transmission pan and leave whatever is in the transmission in it
I am watching many videos about transmission problems, and I found yours very helpful. Here's my story. I have a 2003 Chevy Tracker that is having issues with the transmission, slip a lot, doesn't have power, the engine will make a lot of noise but the car won't go specifically after stopping in the red light. Someone told me about lucas transmission fix, so I added one bottle. Is doing better but the problem still there. Should I try replacing the transmission fluid or should I get another car. I have never replaced the fluid before, my bad, I didn't know I had to do it.
I had a 2006 dodge sprinter that I used for expediting. Drove it for 850,000 k or (480,000 miles). Never had any transmission problems other than changing out the conductor board due to erratic shifting. I would change the oil and trans filter every 100000 k. The best thing was that the NAG 1 transmission has a drain plug for the torque converter to completely drain everything! Transmission was still working after I retired the vehicle. The frame around the windshield was rotting away.
It may blow up tomorrow and if it does, I'll drop a new one in, but I have a 15 year old F-150 super crew with 335,000 miles on it and the transmission has never been touched! Save and except for checking the fluid level. I've been across country several times in this old truck and intend on driving it until the wheels fall off. It gives me new meaning to the old slogan, "Ford Tough".
I have a question for you....I have a 2010 Honda Pilot EX-L that I purchased back in 2019 from a used car dealership with 185,000 miles and now I have 262,000 miles. I am not sure when the previous owner changed the transmission fluid and when I checked my transmission fluid, it looks brown. I always heard if you are unsure when the transmission fluid was changed just to leave it alone because changing the transmission fluid could destroy the transmission. Should I drain and fill the transmission fluid anyway or just leave it alone?
I had a 100k civic and did it, have heard ppl do it at 200k, just as long as its not burnt, you can perform a drain and fill, never flush. Use honda dw1 or the rated for that trans. Do one change today, the other one in a week or month, and one more a year later. Then change the fluid every 2 to 3 years or every 30,000. If you use the engine in a very hot area like a tropicla island, consider cutting the interval in half
I have a 2010 Nissan Murano I bought it used and don’t know the maintenance history. The transmission fluid is dark(burnt) so I do a change or flush? Thank you
@Veronica Dillard it probably has a drain plug in the bottom of the transmission pan,......my Nissan qx4 does , what I do is drain whatever comes out and replace with same amount ,...I use only Nissan trans fluid from dealer wait 3-4 k miles do it again , for mine it take 3 qts.yours my be more and leave the filter alone
I changed it on my old civic I bought. It had 200,000 km on it. I've done 3 drain and refills now and so far it's running great. I don't use the oem dw1. I use motomaster low viscosity atf. So far it's been great.
I had a BMW X5 with over 100K and the dealership recommended NOT changing the fluid. They had too many slippage issues after. Either do it before 60k or not at all
I agree with you on all you say except for not rocking back and forth when stuck in mud or snow! Rocking back and forth is the only way to get unstuck, but you should do it right! Also, when you say the life of the car, how many years is that?
Some people drive with a very heavy foot. When they are driving they always seem to drive like they are in some kind of a race. That will greatly affect transmission life. If you are buying a car, look at the condition of the brake and accelerator pedal. If they are heavily worn, walk away. Just for comparison, my car has 200,000 miles and the pedals are barely worn.
@@johnready630 I know someone who is well off and buys a new car every 3 years. He used to trade in the old car but now he sells it privately because he gets a lot more for it. I'll tell you; I feel sorry for the person who buys that car. Even if the car shows no obvious problems at the time of sale, the way he beats on it, you know the overall life of the car has been significantly reduced.
@@johnstack5008 Having been a mechanic for many years I know what you mean. A city driven car takes way more abuse then the one that comes from a small town and commutes on the highway. Big difference in longevity .
@@johnready630 Oh he really beats on it. Racing to every stop sign and red light riding over potholes without any regard, doesn't bother with maintenance. He gets rid of the car after 3 years because he knows mechanical problems are around the corner if he keeps it any longer.
😅HI from South Australia we’ve changed our D S G FUILD AUTOMATICALLY EVERY 30 thousand Kay’s …These VW DSGs transmission would cost 20 grand to replace ..So as we’ve done 120 thousand Kay’s is in great condition..cheers from down under 🎉
Some manufacturers say not,the ATF is there for life but we have had trouble with Land and Range Rover automatic gearbox’s so we have the transmission oil and filter drained and refilled with new ATF. It isn’t a cheap job but the difference in driving the vehicle afterwards is unreal and well worth the cost if you can afford it,it’ll drive like a new vehicle once done and for thousands of miles thereafter.
Thank you for an excellent video. I was surprised to see the profound difference in intervals by different manufacturers. Some recommend it at as soon as 20k miles. Realizing that I checked when purchasing a used car and found most never had it done. I eventually settled on a 1997 Mercedes E320 with 200K miles. In this case MB recommends changing the fluid at 300K but I went ahead and had it done at 200K, as in this case, this model often does not require an engine top end rebuild or transmission rebuild until 400K.
The OEM mfgers such as GM suggest frequent changes which means visiting the dealership often to make your $ contributions. I have a classic MB which states NO changes ever needed making sure however your use the recommended fluid as purchased. I also have a cherry 20 yr. old Buick Century w/155K miles - changed about 70K miles ago. The fluid looks new, no smell and no shifting problems. NO flush for certain and I see no reason to wake the sleeping dog for a change.
Thank you for this video. I just got a certified used, well maintained 2017 Toyota Camry with 63,000 miles. The car runs very fine, I have never noticed anything going wrong with the transmission and I have been contemplating changing the fluid. Now I know better after watching this video that I have to change it at some point to keep up with the maintenance. Sir, when do you suggest I change the fluid? Thank you!
Like he said on the video: from 30k to 60k miles. Most people that maintain their cars well don't include the transmission fluid change. If you cannot confirm that yours has been changed at some time, you need to have it changed right now. Don't wait any longer.
I just changed mine on a 2017 hyundai elantra, 61k miles. It runs really smooth. I can almost feel the difference now. Car is recently paid off so im gonna try to ride it to 1 million miles
Toyota is one of those companies that claims the fluid is "Lifetime" and never needs changing. It's a BS sales gimmick! You need to do a drain and fill at 60,000 and make sure you use authentication Toyota transmission fluid as it designed for your transmission. For the ultimate advice on Toyota maintenance see The Car Care Nut videos on TH-cam…absolutely the best!
Nice video. About to drain and refill, but not flush, my 20 year old BTRE 4spd. Have a spare transmission just in case 😂😂😂 One point I would add : don't drop your Fluid until you have removed the fill point plug first. No point having an empty trans that you can't refill....
2003 Pontiac Sunfire with over 300,000 miles. Everything has been serviced regularly EXCEPT the transmission. The service people said it was a sealed unit and didn’t need it. 100,000 miles in they said I needed to service it, but I said y’all told me not to when I bought it. Sold it to a guy 3 years ago and he’s still driving it.
I have 84,900 miles on my Ram 1500, V8 5.7L. Bought it used and don't know if the ATF was ever changed. Should I change it? Flush or drop the pan? Thanks.
Ford transmissions such as on some Escapes and Fusions don’t have a serviceable transmission filter, the only way to change the filter is to split the transmission housing. I do a simple fluid drain and fill on mine every second year, it only takes one gallon of Mercon LV and half an hour to do so and I don’t want the filter getting to dirty and plugged. I have a 13 and a 17 and they still shift and pull smoothly by doing so, I may change it to often but it’s cheap maintenance.
All newer GM 8 speed transmissions have the same performance issues if not flushed and new filter installed every 50,000 to 55,000 miles ! Lagging shifting at lower RPM , hesitation at highway speeds , vastly increased fuel consumption ; my Colorado gets serviced every 55,000 miles ! Runs a lot smoother , and restores lower RPM performance , better mileage !
Thank you excellent and informative presentation. No twitching or shouting just straight info and well done. I have a 2007 Lexus GX 470 with 91,000 miles on it garage kept well-maintained by Lexus but they do not recommend changing the transmission fluid for some reason well, I did it Two years ago at about 80,000 miles fluid looked fine. The magnetic component at the bottom of the pan showed no traces of any kind of metal shavings or anything along those lines but still changed the fluid. No issues from doing that drives the same as it did prior to the fluid change… please in your opinion what you tell me when you think I should do it again thank you
Would still do in about 100k more. I have had my fluids changed in several cars. One was a Lexus LS400. Had hard shifting at about 200k. Fluid looked okay with no metal shavings either. However, it did cure my hard shifting. This is not a blanket statement for all cars at all miles.
I think the manufacturers have all the data, and they have determined that improper ATF service destroys more transmissions than ignoring it and not changing the fluid at all. There are an insane number of idiot mechanics and lube techs out there that don't use the correct fluid, contaminate the fluid, loose fluid when checking the level and then don't replace it, drain the wrong fluid when doing an oil change, etc. etc. etc. So the manufacturers increased the size of the pan, put in giant filters and magnets, and sealed the tranny up so it CANNOT be serviced by these idiots and shade-tree mechanics. Honestly, they are correct that the average auto owner is better off this way. When it comes to AT fluid changes, I think getting it serviced properly by a reputable shop that knows what they are doing or a dealer is much more important than how often you change it.
If one fluid change removes 50% of the total volume, then three fluid changes will remove over 90% of the total volume. That's just mathematics. Drive 50-100 miles between changes to make sure the new fluid mixes with the old fluid.
There is some misleading information here. A fluid flush is not "pumping out" the fluid. Transmission techs don't have some special pump that removes it. They might have a pneumatic tool that pushes shop air through it. But it isn't a pump. A fluid flush is simply emptying and filling roughly 3 or 4 times. Basically it is a huge waste of oil. A 6 speed ZF brand transmission (ford, Chrysler, Jeep, Dodge, RAM, jaguar, land rover, etc) might need 26 liters of oil. 1 bottle of oil can be $28 a liter, it'll get expensive quick. For a road car it is effectively pointless to ever do a flush. Unless you are the owner of a Top fuel, NASCAR, or F1 team/car. Don't ever bother with a fluid flush. It would be easier/faster and a lot less wasteful to just remove the transmission and empty the torque converter manually, then to do a flush. Also Transmission Fluid isn't only red or pink. It can be green, blue, clear, yellow. It can be any color. As long as it isn't black, brown, grey, you should be ok... Also NEVER leave old fluid! A fluid change is always better then nothing at all. It is an old wives tale to leave old fluid if never changed. That's garbage advice. It will lead to the death of the transmission. A fluid change WILL NOT CAUSE A SLIPPING TRANSMISSION! Warn out bands and clutch packs will cause slipping. If you are suddenly feeling that you need a transmission fluid change because it isn't acting right. Chances are it isn't just the oil. It could be solenoids or seals. Your Transmission controller (it's sometimes inside the transmission) or valve body will need to be rebuilt and/or resealed. These are things that can be checked when the oil is removed. If the tech simply just replaces the oil without checking the other items I just mentioned, GO TO ANOTHER SHOP! They are wasting your time and money. A transmission rebuild or replacement is ALWAYS THE LAST OPTION! Also a mechanic IS NOT A TRANSMISSION TECH! Mechanics specialize in engines and suspensions. Transmissions are a totally different subject. Asking a mechanic to service or rebuild a transmission is like asking a gynecologist to do brain surgery. ALWAYS GO TO A TRANSMISSION SHOP FOR TRANSMISSIONS!
I did my Ram 1500 2014 8 speed at 40K and it NEEDED it... it was dirty. I did a new filter and pan ran it for 20 min and changed it again. Will do again at 80K. Shifts much nicer.
I have 84,900 miles on my Ram 1500 V8 5.7L, bought it used. Don't, know if ATF was ever changed. Should I change it at transmission shop?@@ericsacco7406
A couple months ago, I thought I was being proactive by having the transmission fluid changed on a car with 80k miles. I took it to the shop and they flushed it, and now I have shudder when it shifts. Im learning the hard way that this was a bad move, as I’m being told the transmission will need to be replaced.
Damn------proactive too. I fear such things. My 2003 Buick has not had a tune up in at least 80K miles but it runs fine....NO evidence for the need. I change the obvious items religiously but unless the car tells me that some help is needed with the transmission/engine, I'll assume all is AOK. Hell, I don't have $700 to toss to see if I get better gas mileage with a tune up!
I've had two local mechanics say if it ain't broke don't fix it. My interval is 34000 miles but I'm told to come back at 60000. Scratching my head now.
As the friction clutch material wears , they get thinner . Do NOT flush all the fluid out , for all new fluid . Drain only the gearbox . Leave the torque converter full of old fluid . As the two fluids mix the portion of "grit" is 100% necessary , to stop the thinner clutches from slipping . If you change ALL the fluid at once the slipping could scrap the car , if a rebuild is more than the car is worth .
Automatic clutch packs when functioning as designed, will either lock or unlock a gear ratio. Slip shouldn't enter the equation. The torque convertor provides a cushioning action in the intermediate ratios prior to lockup in overdrive. If the clutch packs are slipping then the issue is elsewhere, primarily lack of servicing and cooked or compromised ATF.
Gearbox has special system to compensate for clutches wear. It is a computer that controls pressure in the gearbox. Mechanic resets that computer right after flush or ATF replacement. System will take some time to adjust
Thanks for the video, I have a 03 gmc safari, 165000 original miles. ATF is the color of motor oil (amber brown) flush change or leave it along? Thoughts please
Infiniti G35 2005 with 58k miles. Only maintenance it has is oil changes and tires. What should I do? And should I change the automatic transmission fluid due to the low mileage? concern is the age.
I don't think he stressed this enough. Absolutely find out how to PROPERLY check the trans fluid level in your car BEFORE adding fluid if you think it's low. Like he said, some manufactures require the engine to be off. Or running in park. Or running at normal operating temperature. Or running the shifter through all the gears and waiting five minutes before checking the level... etc. The reason I say this is because you can ruin your transmission very quickly by adding too much fluid. I just want to caution any diy'ers out there. Because it is very easy to pull out the dipstick, not see any fluid on it and add to the full mark like you would with the engine oil. When in reality what you have just done is make a ticking timebomb inside your trannny,
@@fubartotale3389 our Mercedes’ doesn’t. It has an oil level sensor that you have to look for deep in the menu. After you change the oil it is a bit nerve wracking as it doesn’t tell you anything for a few minutes.
I had mine changed once & transmission filter too. Drove well for a while then boom started slipping all at once. My Dad had it done one time then right after that boom his transmission went out. So I'm skeptical about it.
This video fails to mention new fluid has detergents, which can unstick crud in the transmission and clog it up. Fluid changes are the best thing you can do for a transmission but you have to do it from the beginning; at 30k, for instance, and then every 30k after that. If you try to do it with 120k you can ruin the transmission.
@@ravepornI did a drain and fill on a Ford escape and Toyota Camry at about 210k and 220k respectively after having not touched the transmissions since around 100k for each. No problems.
Thank you! one question, my chevy traverse 2015 transmission is working well, but when it changes from i think is 3rd to 4th the car feels like shaking, and i need to give a little push more on the accelerator to pass it to next shift and the shaking goes away. It has been maintaining the same, not better or worse, since i bought it used, about 2.5 years now. Should a transmission fluod change be good in this case? It has about 75K miles. Thank you!
I have a 2013 jeep wrangler sport. Over the years it started to have a problem with the first shift of the day. The colder the ambient temp the worst is the first shift. Sometimes stall in reverse or drive. After that it was fine. Dealer "could not duplicate the problem". Typical dealer BS. I have an on board computer that visually shows all engine and transmission data in real time. I did notice that the fluid takes time to warm up. Once warmed the operating transmission temp is 168-172. It takes a while to warm up. It has never over heated. I can see the temp while driving. It fluctuates less that 5 degrees. If i warm the jeep for a half hour the problem is greatly decreased or eliminated almost to normal. I was thinking of changing the crankcase position sensor. My fuel consumption is poor when warming up for a half hour. I do long distance driving. My mpg after a 1300 mile trip tops 26 mpg. In the city i get 17-18 mpg. I have 80k miles on jeep. All parts are OEM. I hope its not the torque converter. If it was i dont belive the problem would go away...but it does. The next day it happens again. In a hot climate the problem is greatly reduced on first shift. What i do is shift to drive first, less torque then reverse. I have tried almost everything. HELP!
It's a huge mixed bag of Answers as much as Questions as what to do with your Automatic Transmission Fluid ??? Flushing the Transmission can usually do more Harm than good ?? IF you're like me and prefer to change All your car's fluids. Just drain the Fluids and refill.
I have a question the gauge on the car keeps going from Hot back to center and when I get oil changed flush transmission however this is a 2004 sienna and I don’t know when was the last time transmission service could be the thermostat that needs fixed?
I just bought a 94 Toyota pickup with 157k miles. I checked the trans fluid from the dip stick and it’s brownish not black and burnt. Would you recommend and change the filter and fluid?
All a sealed unit means is the filter is not serviceable. I have yet to see a transmission that didn't have a drain plug or a way to fill it. Most people never think about their transmission until it does something stupid. Then they realize they have never serviced it. ATF is extremely high detergent. Introducing new fluid literally starts cleaning the inside of your unit. Debris finally finds its way to a solenoid or shift valve. Then people equate fluid change with failure. Fluid didn't make your transmission fail, that 180k miles on it did.
I've never heard of checking Trans fluid with the engine off but a lot of Chrysler products requires checking with the trans. In netural with the E brake on
my friend is an engineering. He designs transmission for cars. He told me if it is lifetime then you dont need to change transmission oil bc he said it will last up to 300k. He said if you never change transmission oil at 100k and decide to change then transmission can slip. He said transmission oil nowaday better than before.
I have a ford Explorer and the torque converter is shuddering I went to the dealer and they said a flush wouldn’t work if converter is weak . Flushing it would be a bandaid. Taking back in this week for another look see.
The best way to change your transmission fluid is to drive for 20 minutes and pump out 1 quart. Then add a fresh quart. Drive the car for another 15 minutes, and pump out another quart. Do this several times until you have pumped out and added five new quarts.
I drive a 2015.5 Volvo S60, turbo 5. Cyl. It has 66,000 miles on it, and the owners manual says it is lifetime lubricant, and there is no dipstick present to even check it. I am thinking I’ll ask the dealer change the fluid this summer. What is your feeling on this one?
I asked jiffy lube to change the transmission fluid in a '78 Mustang and they refused. They said there's too great a risk that I'll lose the reverse gear.
Center & other workshops due to the unavailableilty of the spare part. There are many other owners who are driving daily with the fear of the ATF cooler replacement and AT failures at anytime. Please advise us with your expertise view on this and suggest us is there any other alternative for this issues and is it possible to use any after market ATF coolers to resolve the issue for the long term usage of our cars. Your expertise and advice would help many thousand owners. Thanks in advance
I own a 2022 Infiniti QX50 with CVT. It has around 7,000 miles and am planning to have CVT flushed and new filter at 10,000 by the Infiniti dealer to get any contamination from the break-in period out and start the rest of the vehicle's life with fresh clean CVT fluid. Do you think this is a good idea?
Cvt has less movement you should change the transmission fluid 30 thousand to 60 thousand milles ...you can even go all the way to 100 thousand if you want to push it.
I have a 1989 Toyota Camry that is in GREAT condition. BUT, my transmission is beginning to "slip" on occasion. At the price of vehicles these days, I will drive this car until it does not run any longer. I've been quoted $3500.00 to repair the transmission. Are there any fixes that I can do to prolong the life of this car? I baby it, and do not drive it more than is necessary. I've had it a looooooooooong time, and DO NOT wish to replace it, if I can possibly avoid it.
check your warranty, flushing or changing on your own and not by the dealer can void the warranty. Jiffy Lube was tested 3 out of 5 shops didn't even change the oil or filter, 1 did but not the filter and only 1 did the job, They ALL highly recommended a transmission flush (again voids the warranty)
WAUUUU am always amazed with 56 years old you always learn something never knew there was a difference between a flush and changed transmission fluid tks buddy. i knew the rule at the end old vehicle you don't know the history leave it alone.
I have a 2001 Nissan Xterra with 195 ,000 miles and I bought it a year and a half ago with about 9,000 miles less than now and I bought it from the original owner who always maintained it and his son said that he thinks the man had a total flush done at the dealership around 60,000 miles and it’s working fine and I want to ask do you think I should look at the fluid and if pink and looks good do a passive flush with a tube or just the pan filter and gasket or if dark and dirty and smelly leave it alone I’m thinking it looks okay… ? I’m also going to say I have no maintenance records and I know it was taken good care of and garage kept the interior is immaculate. I don’t know what I should do?
Tip #4 - want to keep your transmission happy...keep your tires inflated properly - managing the rolling resistance by properly maintaining tire pressures is priceless (and free).
Having an AWD car forces you to do this as tire diameter and inflation pressures have to be equal to prevent wear on the drive system.
Did you just say inflation? As increased cost of living?
True, Best way to see the effect of improper tire pressure is with a bicycle...how much harder you have to work when the pressure is even a little low.
That's great advice. Makes sense
Bb@@fubartotale3389
In 2005 I was driving a 2000 Ford Explorer 4wd. My wife and I were going from Texas to norther Utah to see relatives. It was a long trip, about 1500 miles each way, so I decided to have a fully synthetic engine oil change. While changing the oil, the owner of the shop told me he could flush my entire transmission with completely new transmission fluid. I said ok. On the way home, going up a hill, it started slipping. I went back to the shop and told them they put too much fluid in. They checked it and said it was fine. I siphoned off two quarts using 3/8" plastic tubing in Jackson Wyoming. It was still slipping. I nursed it this way for two years avoiding jack rabbit starts and eventually paid $1700 to get it rebuilt. I will never flush again.
That’s your fault because you waited so long to do it. Your lack of maintenance is what did that, not the shop. Dummy
Heard a lot of horror stories about flushes, sound alike it just pushed crap into places it wouldn’t normally find. Keeping it simple seems to be the way ahead, drain what you can and replace with a like amount.
So talking to 2 master-mechanics, theres the right and wrong way of flushing.. right way is making sure fluid is used but not burnt.
Wrong way is changing fluid thats too old/burnt, and/or using solvents or cleaners in the flush machine. My car has 200k miles, just did a flush a few weeks ago.. runs flawlessly, but my fluid was not burnt at all and I made sure they only replaced my old fluid with new, nothing else.
drain and fill.. never flush
I change the transmission fluid on my 2011 Accord every 30,000 miles like the book says. (I have never flushed it). It has 434,000 miles and it drives like the day I bought it from the dealer.
You do it yourself?
@@sl4983 Yes I do.
You did the right thing
Wow
Nothing like driving a car and having no car payments!
It sucks that you can’t check the transmission fluid with a dipstick on a 2019+ Toyota Camry.
2001 Chevy Z71. 323,000 miles. Never touched the transmission. Still running like new.
They don't make them like that anymore, my 2007 went through 2 replaced transmissions, 2 transfer cases and 3 rear axles. 3/4 ton pile of junk.
@@55whiplash wow. I’m up to 347,000 and shifts like silk.
@@givemeabreakdoc that’s crazy that you have never changed the transmission fluid.
@@razorraysolarsavings70 at 349,000 now, still shifting like a champ. Everytime I drive it on a pretty long drive, I think, “is this gonna be the trip that it gives out.” It’s simply a matter of time, but it’s been a good one.
Crazy, I got a 2010 honda civic and only changed it 3 times.
I finally understand the difference between a trans flush and replacement. Thanks.
YES! Drain & refill. NEVER get a flush. NEVER.
Came here to say this. Especially if the fluid gets burnt and nasty. Then don’t service it at all.
what does a flush consist of.? i know they say avoid them but just curious.
@@daviddowns7552watch here... 2:55
@@jamesblanco7323That simply makes the situation worse.
It’s safe to flush even with bad fluid. Add a transmission additive to prevent problems. The transmission will last longer.
My last car showed some hesitation in the transmission at 58K miles. The manufacturer says the fluid is lifetime, but i know that really means “lifetime of the transmission.” After doing research, I drained the fluid, replaced both filters, cleaned the pan really well, and replaced the fluid. This was about half of the total fluid, since the other half was in the torque converter.
I then drove it a few hundred miles before changing the fluid a second time. This was faster because I left the pan alone. At this point the transmission had 25% old fluid and 75% new.
Then I drove 3000 miles and did a third fluid change. I think the long highway miles on 3/4 new fluid cleaned out the fine passageways in the transmission because there were more contaminants than I expected to find. However, the car drove and shifted very well after this third change. I’m glad I didn’t do a flush, as this gradual replacement of fluid felt more natural and gentle, giving the machine time to get used to a progressively cleaner environment over time instead of shocking it all at once.
I recently bought a late model car with only 3000 miles. I plan to change the transmission fluid and filter at 30,000 miles and every 30,000 miles thereafter.
Shock the transmission? You were doing fine up until that point.
"fluid felt more natural and gentle" That's TMI fella 🤣
What brand transmission fluid?
Cvt transmission?
That's actually brilliant
Sir good day! Thanks a lot for the important tips about transmission fluid. All the best.
All transmissions should have a drain plug and a spin on filte
Scotty says no flushing. Drain is ok if done at the right mileage. If never done before and it’s high mileage Not worth the risk
I disconnected the transmission cooler line to the radiator, started the engine and poured in fresh fluid as it ran. My transmission was clunking during shifts. After I completely flushed, the fluid, the transmission operated beautifully.
I’m not convinced. Don’t flush just change the fluid and or filter.
What car you did this procedure on?
Lifetime fluid means life of the warranty. Test it and change it as needed. CVT's in particular really need it changed when it deteriorates. Heavy towing and weather extremes affect your change intervals. Not a big fan of flushing, drain, change filter, should be good to go. Always use the correct fluid, and some are very pricy eg CVT fluids.
I purchased my 2008 Pontiac Grand Prix new. I've flushed the transmission every 50k, religiously, and it shifts perfectly with over 230k miles. I pulled a loaded 4x8 trailer from Albuquerque to Boston through the mountains, and it never skipped a beat. Prevention is always better than a cure. 😊
For those who want a Complete (Trans, Torque Converter, and Radiator-cooler) fluid exchange vs an approx 40% pan exchange, the following 2007 RAV4 approach SHOULD be applicable to Most makes and models:
1.) Remove the plastic shield under the front of the vehicle. Note, new assorted plastic push-clips are recommended.
2.) The radiator cooler transmission fluid out-fall is on the drivers side approx 3/4" OD, 3/8" ID rubber hose with spring clasp clamp -- EASY to see and access!
3.) Disconnect the hose and attach an extension line to a translucent 1gal jug in an catch pan (for overflow/spills).
4.) The steel return line may drip into a second catch pan.
5.) Snuggly attach a clear extension line to the dip-stick tube with a funnel. (I inserted a clear plastic kitchen "baster" keeping the refill level from overflowing at top of the "baster"/funnel).
6.) Start the engine and put in gear (automatic) until approx 1/2 gal OLD is collected and turn off engine.
7.) Fill approx 1/2 gal NEW.
8.) Repeat for approx 2 1/2 gals until bright pink is dispensing.
9.) Reattach radiator/trans Return line.
10.) Adjust fluid level to the low side of the "Cold" mark on dip-stick (so you can top-off to the Hot mark).
11.) Drive vehicle until transmission is up to approx 115 deg. F and adjust fluid level to "Hot" mark.
12.) Reattach the plastic shield using new plastic push-pins.
13.) This should replace the Trans, Torque Converter, and Radiator Cooler with ALL New Fluid.
NOTE: For Sealed transmissions attach an extension line with funnel to the steel Return line (instead of the non-existent "dip-stick tube").
Happy motoring!
Excellent presentation here! Old retired tech here and I am a big believer in regular maintenance. I've seen first hand what dirty old fluids do to hydraulic systems!
What brand did you work on?
also a good tip is to not put it in gear immediately after starting it in winter because the rpms are around 1200 and thats too high to engage gear safely without ANY damage
. same for summer really
Interesting comments on here whether to change the fluid or just leave alone. I'm on my 2nd Honda Accord and my previous one definitely appreciated a transmission fluid change. The gears were so much improved, it changed up/down so much better (Auto of course).
Changed my oil in my dodge truck every 2 years, pulled stock trailer. Have 538000 kms . No problems. Truck is 30 years old.
I ran a car repair business for 47 years. My 69 GTO convertible that I bought in 1971 had 40K
on it when I bought it. I changed the fluid and filter and it worked fine for two weeks and went
completely out. I had the car towed to a trans shop run by an elderly man who had been in the business for 40 years. I asked him why the trans failed and he told me it happened because I changed the fluid. At 18 years old I learned to leave automatic transmissions alone and just run
them till they fail. I still own the GTO 52 years later and it still shifts perfectly at 165,000 miles
with it's 52 year old fluid and filter. My 99 Ford Expedition that has always been used for towing
an 8,000 lb. trailer has 340,000 miles on it and the trans has never been touched, still original
fluid and shifts perfectly. One of my employees owned a 35 foot GMC motorhome and he was
well aware of my stance on NOT changing trans fluid. He went on a Colorado vacation and his
30,000 mile motorhome developed an ignition miss that was a bad plug wire. The service writer at the dealership talked him into servicing the transmission. He left the dealership, drove
200 more miles and his transmission went completely out. He was so embarrassed by his stupidity after all I had taught him that it was years before he would admit to me what he did.
My Lincoln Town Car transmission has 280 K on the original fluid and it shifts perfectly. The only transmission I have had to get overhauled in millions of miles of driving was my GTO
transmission. I know I am right, I've got over 50 years of data that proves my case.
You are exactly right! My 2011 Tacoma has 202,000 miles on it and I won't even think about changing the fluid. No slip, hesitation or shutter! Trans. has never been serviced.
I was starting to get transmission shudder before I changed the fluid at 125,000 miles. I added Lube Guard Instant Fix, and the shudder is completely gone. It shifts as good as new. I highly recommend Lube Guard Instant Fix.
The Toyota dealer wanted over $300 to change the fluid in my 2012 Camry, and more than $700 to do a flush. They would not even replace the filter. I flushed it and changed the filter for about $100, though it is a lot of work. Changing the fluid and flushing it isn't all that hard, but it was difficult to access one bolt to drop the pan to replace the filter.
Flushing is BAD, dont do it!
@@cjsteele9594 There is no logical reason that flushing it is bad. It's foolish to leave three quarts of dirty fluid in it and mix five quarts of good fluid with it. No one would change engine oil or any other gearbox oil that way.
My uncle works for a transmission place, you are wrong. But do what you want, its your transmission.@@MeadowFarmer
Crazy isn't it. A Toyota dealer here in Tampa wanted 300 dollars to change about 3 quarts of transmission fluid, no filter. Seriously we are talking about 35 dollars of ATF and an over priced 9 dollar transmission pan bolt gasket.
Yes !
I have the front and rear differential, transfer case and transmission fluid changed every 30K miles on our 4WD pickup.
Both our Outback and Forester have the front and rear differential and transfer case fluids changed every 30K miles as well, but our Subaru mechanic recommends that we change the CVT transmission fluid changed every 60K miles.
Subaru recommends that the CVT transmission fluid Never to be changed because the fluid is “lifetime”, which means without the fluid being changed every 60K miles, the CVT transmission will fail and CVT transmission’s cannot be rebuilt, so you’ll have to buy a new one for the “small” price of $8K.
I also have the oil and filter changed every 5K miles with Kirkland (Costco) full synthetic oil. Subaru recommends to change the oil and filter every 6K miles.
Kirkland full synthetic motor oil flows quicker in sub zero temperatures than any other synthetic oil.
During our winter months our average daytime temperatures are 20-25 degrees F.
Our 2011 Ford Ranger XLT super cab 4WD pickup is mainly used for work around our property, (it currently has only 36K miles and will soon be 13 years old). I change the oil and filter every 6 months, again with Kirkland full synthetic oil. Because we don’t drive our pickup often, in 6 months we put about 1,500 miles on it.
At our age, our Ranger will probably be the last pickup we’ll ever have to own.
We’ve been driving Ranger’s since they first came out in the 80s. This is our 4th Ranger. They’ve been proven to be durable little pickups.
When the Ranger’s first came out, they were actually a rebadged Mazda. The old Ford Courier pickups were Mazda.
The new Ranger’s are Ford products.
The original 2.3L 4cyl were bulletproof engines.
Our 84 and 88 Ranger’s were worked hard. We put over 300K miles on our 84 and almost 450K miles on our 88 Ranger.
We had a 1990 but it had the 3.0L V6 and when it had only 80K miles, it started burning a LOT of oil, so we sold it and went back to driving our 88.
The 88 was still running like new when my wife didn’t have it in 4WD, hit a patch of ice and flipped it in a ditch.
We bought it back from our insurance company (it was totaled). My father in law was able to straighten the cab enough to replace the windshield, so the 88 became a ranch pickup.
The electrical system fried on it at almost 450K miles so that was the end of our 88.
In 19 we were needing a small pickup again so we started looking around and found our current Ranger with only 20K miles. It booked out for $22K, but we bought it for $18K.
If you take good care of your vehicles and maintain them, you’ll easily get 250K - 350K miles from them.
You give good advice, especially about following the car's owner manual for any/all maintenance, and don't say you bought a used vehicle that doesn't have an owner's manual, they can always be found/purchased from the car dealer or the internet. Best advice I can give is, if it ain't broke - don't fix it.
Wrong on pricing…dealers are charging $300 to $400 nowadays. 🤑🤛
The biggest problem i have found with automatics, the valve body get gummed up, and causes the valves to move slow, which causes the clutches slip when going into gear.
I have a 2019 cruze hatchback. 6 speed auto. Manual recommends changing fluid but NOT flushing. No dip stick. A drain plug and fill hole.
Back in the late 1970s I was told by many a mechanic (they were just beginning to become technicians) never mess with a transmission if it is working, Never service it regardless of the "Service/Maintenance" Schedule. To do so might upset its balance or knock something loose. The origin of "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."? Mere ADDING fluid was ok, but heaven forbid taking one apart. Many shops swapped bad units for rebuilt. Then they could take their time repairing and then testing a bad one.
My truck has an Allison transmission and the manufacturer says 100,000 miles for a fluid and filter change. But I pull as camper and boat so I changed the fluid and external filter at 50,000 miles.
Friction modifier can help when flushes prevent tranz from functioning properly.
I have services transmissions and after changing or flushing them would not operate. Had to add friction modifier or add BACK old fluid.
Short answer YES. I've had hard shifting on my 1997 Lexus LS400 and it cured it with 215K. Have a bout 300k on it now with no transmission issues. Have a Ford 150 with 100k with the same problem but worse. Transmission flush cured it. 1999 Grand Marquis. Had to do it twice in it's 250K Cured it both times. Maybe not all cars and if you have too many miles. But, in my case, it worked, no doubt about it.
Very important here if you have an old car over 10 years old and you don’t know when the fluid or ever the fluids been done. Do not get a flush just ask for a change and you should be fine. Reason for this is if you get a fluid change all the mechanic will do is drop the oil pan change the filter and put new fluid back in the same amount that came out. That’s probably best for older vehicles. When the fluid gets old it gets a little dirty and will leave some junk floating around if the transmission still shifts and operates properly you could screw it up with a full flush the new fluid might effect the shifting. So older cars get a fluid change if the cars been kept up too date on services get a flush.
Thank you for your information. Nissan told me it’s the transmission 🤦🏽♀️😥
whats the difference between a flush and a change?
@@williamgomez5876 when you flush it takes all transmission fluid out even the stuff that's left in the transmission, when you Just change it you Just change whats in the transmission pan and leave whatever is in the transmission in it
@@williamgomez5876Change: drain and fill, usually about 50% come out and torque convertor still holding some fluid which doesn't drain out.
If your transmission is only being held together because of the gum and varnish of the old fluid, it's not long for this world regardless
I am watching many videos about transmission problems, and I found yours very helpful. Here's my story. I have a 2003 Chevy Tracker that is having issues with the transmission, slip a lot, doesn't have power, the engine will make a lot of noise but the car won't go specifically after stopping in the red light. Someone told me about lucas transmission fix, so I added one bottle. Is doing better but the problem still there. Should I try replacing the transmission fluid or should I get another car. I have never replaced the fluid before, my bad, I didn't know I had to do it.
I had a 2006 dodge sprinter that I used for expediting. Drove it for 850,000 k or (480,000 miles). Never had any transmission problems other than changing out the conductor board due to erratic shifting. I would change the oil and trans filter every 100000 k. The best thing was that the NAG 1 transmission has a drain plug for the torque converter to completely drain everything! Transmission was still working after I retired the vehicle. The frame around the windshield was rotting away.
Wonder if the was from water getting into the window
It may blow up tomorrow and if it does, I'll drop a new one in, but I have a 15 year old F-150 super crew with 335,000 miles on it and the transmission has never been touched! Save and except for checking the fluid level. I've been across country several times in this old truck and intend on driving it until the wheels fall off. It gives me new meaning to the old slogan, "Ford Tough".
I have a question for you....I have a 2010 Honda Pilot EX-L that I purchased back in 2019 from a used car dealership with 185,000 miles and now I have 262,000 miles. I am not sure when the previous owner changed the transmission fluid and when I checked my transmission fluid, it looks brown. I always heard if you are unsure when the transmission fluid was changed just to leave it alone because changing the transmission fluid could destroy the transmission. Should I drain and fill the transmission fluid anyway or just leave it alone?
I had a 100k civic and did it, have heard ppl do it at 200k, just as long as its not burnt, you can perform a drain and fill, never flush. Use honda dw1 or the rated for that trans. Do one change today, the other one in a week or month, and one more a year later. Then change the fluid every 2 to 3 years or every 30,000. If you use the engine in a very hot area like a tropicla island, consider cutting the interval in half
I have a 2010 Nissan Murano I bought it used and don’t know the maintenance history. The transmission fluid is dark(burnt) so I do a change or flush? Thank you
@Veronica Dillard it probably has a drain plug in the bottom of the transmission pan,......my Nissan qx4 does , what I do is drain whatever comes out and replace with same amount ,...I use only Nissan trans fluid from dealer wait 3-4 k miles do it again , for mine it take 3 qts.yours my be more and leave the filter alone
I changed it on my old civic I bought. It had 200,000 km on it. I've done 3 drain and refills now and so far it's running great.
I don't use the oem dw1. I use motomaster low viscosity atf. So far it's been great.
I had a BMW X5 with over 100K and the dealership recommended NOT changing the fluid. They had too many slippage issues after. Either do it before 60k or not at all
I agree with you on all you say except for not rocking back and forth when stuck in mud or snow! Rocking back and forth is the only way to get unstuck, but you should do it right!
Also, when you say the life of the car, how many years is that?
Have a 2019 Ford Ranger with only 14,000. I was kind of shocked when the service manual recommended to change fluid and filter change at 15,000 mi.
Some people drive with a very heavy foot. When they are driving they always seem to drive like they are in some kind of a race. That will greatly affect transmission life.
If you are buying a car, look at the condition of the brake and accelerator pedal. If they are heavily worn, walk away. Just for comparison, my car has 200,000 miles and the pedals are barely worn.
You see people racing to the stop light all the time . Moderate acceleration ......moderate braking makes a big difference. ( retired auto mechanic)
@@johnready630 I know someone who is well off and buys a new car every 3 years. He used to trade in the old car but now he sells it privately because he gets a lot more for it.
I'll tell you; I feel sorry for the person who buys that car. Even if the car shows no obvious problems at the time of sale, the way he beats on it, you know the overall life of the car has been significantly reduced.
@@johnstack5008 Having been a mechanic for many years I know what you mean. A city driven car takes way more abuse then the one that comes from a small town and commutes on the highway. Big difference in longevity .
@@johnready630 Oh he really beats on it. Racing to every stop sign and red light riding over potholes without any regard, doesn't bother with maintenance. He gets rid of the car after 3 years because he knows mechanical problems are around the corner if he keeps it any longer.
Flushed my Chevy Cruze at 183K yesterday. No filter change because xmsn must be removed to do it. Guess we'll let you know if it destroys it.
😅HI from South Australia we’ve changed our D S G FUILD AUTOMATICALLY EVERY 30 thousand Kay’s …These VW DSGs transmission would cost 20 grand to replace ..So as we’ve done 120 thousand
Kay’s is in great condition..cheers from down under 🎉
Some manufacturers say not,the ATF is there for life but we have had trouble with Land and Range Rover automatic gearbox’s so we have the transmission oil and filter drained and refilled with new ATF. It isn’t a cheap job but the difference in driving the vehicle afterwards is unreal and well worth the cost if you can afford it,it’ll drive like a new vehicle once done and for thousands of miles thereafter.
LIFETIME fluid is BS.
My car has 120K miles. I have changed filter and replaced the fluid drained during that process 4 times so far.
Thank you for an excellent video. I was surprised to see the profound difference in intervals by different manufacturers. Some recommend it at as soon as 20k miles. Realizing that I checked when purchasing a used car and found most never had it done. I eventually settled on a 1997 Mercedes E320 with 200K miles. In this case MB recommends changing the fluid at 300K but I went ahead and had it done at 200K, as in this case, this model often does not require an engine top end rebuild or transmission rebuild until 400K.
The OEM mfgers such as GM suggest frequent changes which means visiting the dealership often to make your $ contributions.
I have a classic MB which states NO changes ever needed making sure however your use the recommended fluid as purchased.
I also have a cherry 20 yr. old Buick Century w/155K miles - changed about 70K miles ago.
The fluid looks new, no smell and no shifting problems.
NO flush for certain and I see no reason to wake the sleeping dog for a change.
I was advised by the Mercedes dealer to change gearbox oil every 100k km, which I do and 320k km later no problems 😊👍
Thank you for this video. I just got a certified used, well maintained 2017 Toyota Camry with 63,000 miles. The car runs very fine, I have never noticed anything going wrong with the transmission and I have been contemplating changing the fluid. Now I know better after watching this video that I have to change it at some point to keep up with the maintenance. Sir, when do you suggest I change the fluid? Thank you!
Like he said on the video: from 30k to 60k miles. Most people that maintain their cars well don't include the transmission fluid change. If you cannot confirm that yours has been changed at some time, you need to have it changed right now. Don't wait any longer.
I just changed mine on a 2017 hyundai elantra, 61k miles. It runs really smooth. I can almost feel the difference now. Car is recently paid off so im gonna try to ride it to 1 million miles
Googled it: for an automatic, it's not recommended at 30K to 60K. It is recommended at 60K to 100K.
Toyota is one of those companies that claims the fluid is "Lifetime" and never needs changing. It's a BS sales gimmick! You need to do a drain and fill at 60,000 and make sure you use authentication Toyota transmission fluid as it designed for your transmission. For the ultimate advice on Toyota maintenance see The Car Care Nut videos on TH-cam…absolutely the best!
Now, as was said , do not follow manufacturer BS. 5 years or 50K . And definitely use the Toyota WS fluid.
Nice video. About to drain and refill, but not flush, my 20 year old BTRE 4spd. Have a spare transmission just in case 😂😂😂 One point I would add : don't drop your Fluid until you have removed the fill point plug first. No point having an empty trans that you can't refill....
just follow what manufacture recommend. they know better than we do
You should have also address how to check fluid IF YOU HAVE NO DIP STICK like most cars today. No dipsticks.
Never, not ever flush the transmission fluid.
2003 Pontiac Sunfire with over 300,000 miles. Everything has been serviced regularly EXCEPT the transmission. The service people said it was a sealed unit and didn’t need it. 100,000 miles in they said I needed to service it, but I said y’all told me not to when I bought it. Sold it to a guy 3 years ago and he’s still driving it.
I have 84,900 miles on my Ram 1500, V8 5.7L. Bought it used and don't know if the ATF was ever changed. Should I change it? Flush or drop the pan? Thanks.
Should you replace the oil in the torque converter while changing the transmission oil
Ford transmissions such as on some Escapes and Fusions don’t have a serviceable transmission filter, the only way to change the filter is to split the transmission housing. I do a simple fluid drain and fill on mine every second year, it only takes one gallon of Mercon LV and half an hour to do so and I don’t want the filter getting to dirty and plugged. I have a 13 and a 17 and they still shift and pull smoothly by doing so, I may change it to often but it’s cheap maintenance.
All newer GM 8 speed transmissions have the same performance issues if not flushed and new filter installed every 50,000 to 55,000 miles ! Lagging shifting at lower RPM , hesitation at highway speeds , vastly increased fuel consumption ; my Colorado gets serviced every 55,000 miles ! Runs a lot smoother , and restores lower RPM performance , better mileage !
Thank you excellent and informative presentation. No twitching or shouting just straight info and well done. I have a 2007 Lexus GX 470 with 91,000 miles on it garage kept well-maintained by Lexus but they do not recommend changing the transmission fluid for some reason well, I did it Two years ago at about 80,000 miles fluid looked fine. The magnetic component at the bottom of the pan showed no traces of any kind of metal shavings or anything along those lines but still changed the fluid. No issues from doing that drives the same as it did prior to the
fluid change… please in your opinion what you tell me when you think I should do it again thank you
Would still do in about 100k more. I have had my fluids changed in several cars. One was a Lexus LS400. Had hard shifting at about 200k. Fluid looked okay with no metal shavings either. However, it did cure my hard shifting. This is not a blanket statement for all cars at all miles.
ATF degrades with time. Oxidation, absorbing water from the air. I guess 5 years. Manufacturer knows better
don't forget the differential oil too !
Does Lucas transmission additive fluid help the automatic transmission?
I think the manufacturers have all the data, and they have determined that improper ATF service destroys more transmissions than ignoring it and not changing the fluid at all. There are an insane number of idiot mechanics and lube techs out there that don't use the correct fluid, contaminate the fluid, loose fluid when checking the level and then don't replace it, drain the wrong fluid when doing an oil change, etc. etc. etc. So the manufacturers increased the size of the pan, put in giant filters and magnets, and sealed the tranny up so it CANNOT be serviced by these idiots and shade-tree mechanics. Honestly, they are correct that the average auto owner is better off this way. When it comes to AT fluid changes, I think getting it serviced properly by a reputable shop that knows what they are doing or a dealer is much more important than how often you change it.
@@PeterAnglesbingo!!!!
Thats why i go to a Transmission guy i know, been doing it for 40 years, would never trust another shop.
In many cases, dealers and shops are as reliable as doctors! -That comment might ruin your day!
Lol you went in !!
I changed my transmission fluid 14 times you never get all of it out you just get out most but not all so do it often and it will last longer
If one fluid change removes 50% of the total volume, then three fluid changes will remove over 90% of the total volume. That's just mathematics. Drive 50-100 miles between changes to make sure the new fluid mixes with the old fluid.
There is some misleading information here. A fluid flush is not "pumping out" the fluid. Transmission techs don't have some special pump that removes it. They might have a pneumatic tool that pushes shop air through it. But it isn't a pump. A fluid flush is simply emptying and filling roughly 3 or 4 times. Basically it is a huge waste of oil. A 6 speed ZF brand transmission (ford, Chrysler, Jeep, Dodge, RAM, jaguar, land rover, etc) might need 26 liters of oil. 1 bottle of oil can be $28 a liter, it'll get expensive quick. For a road car it is effectively pointless to ever do a flush. Unless you are the owner of a Top fuel, NASCAR, or F1 team/car. Don't ever bother with a fluid flush. It would be easier/faster and a lot less wasteful to just remove the transmission and empty the torque converter manually, then to do a flush. Also Transmission Fluid isn't only red or pink. It can be green, blue, clear, yellow. It can be any color. As long as it isn't black, brown, grey, you should be ok... Also NEVER leave old fluid! A fluid change is always better then nothing at all. It is an old wives tale to leave old fluid if never changed. That's garbage advice. It will lead to the death of the transmission. A fluid change WILL NOT CAUSE A SLIPPING TRANSMISSION! Warn out bands and clutch packs will cause slipping. If you are suddenly feeling that you need a transmission fluid change because it isn't acting right. Chances are it isn't just the oil. It could be solenoids or seals. Your Transmission controller (it's sometimes inside the transmission) or valve body will need to be rebuilt and/or resealed. These are things that can be checked when the oil is removed. If the tech simply just replaces the oil without checking the other items I just mentioned, GO TO ANOTHER SHOP! They are wasting your time and money. A transmission rebuild or replacement is ALWAYS THE LAST OPTION! Also a mechanic IS NOT A TRANSMISSION TECH! Mechanics specialize in engines and suspensions. Transmissions are a totally different subject. Asking a mechanic to service or rebuild a transmission is like asking a gynecologist to do brain surgery. ALWAYS GO TO A TRANSMISSION SHOP FOR TRANSMISSIONS!
I did my Ram 1500 2014 8 speed at 40K and it NEEDED it... it was dirty. I did a new filter and pan ran it for 20 min and changed it again. Will do again at 80K. Shifts much nicer.
I have 84,900 miles on my Ram 1500 V8 5.7L, bought it used. Don't, know if ATF was ever changed. Should I change it at transmission shop?@@ericsacco7406
Good read, I am well informed...
A couple months ago, I thought I was being proactive by having the transmission fluid changed on a car with 80k miles. I took it to the shop and they flushed it, and now I have shudder when it shifts.
Im learning the hard way that this was a bad move, as I’m being told the transmission will need to be replaced.
Damn------proactive too. I fear such things. My 2003 Buick has not had a tune up in at least 80K miles but it runs fine....NO evidence for the need.
I change the obvious items religiously but unless the car tells me that some help is needed with the transmission/engine, I'll assume all is AOK.
Hell, I don't have $700 to toss to see if I get better gas mileage with a tune up!
Add some friction modifier
There's a product called shutter fix that I've used for the same problem, it works really well. It's a small bottle you can add right to your fluid.
The only thing you should be flushing is your toilet! Just drain and fill car fluids
I've had two local mechanics say if it ain't broke don't fix it.
My interval is 34000 miles but I'm told to come back at 60000. Scratching my head now.
As the friction clutch material wears , they get thinner . Do NOT flush all the fluid out , for all new fluid . Drain only the gearbox . Leave the torque converter full of old fluid . As the two fluids mix the portion of "grit" is 100% necessary , to stop the thinner clutches from slipping . If you change ALL the fluid at once the slipping could scrap the car , if a rebuild is more than the car is worth .
Facts!
Had to add old fluid back sometimes.
Also, can add a friction modifier.
Automatic clutch packs when functioning as designed, will either lock or unlock a gear ratio. Slip shouldn't enter the equation. The torque convertor provides a cushioning action in the intermediate ratios prior to lockup in overdrive. If the clutch packs are slipping then the issue is elsewhere, primarily lack of servicing and cooked or compromised ATF.
@@enigmasvids9615 DO YOUR RESERCH . EVERYTHING I SAID IS TRUE . YOUR MOM SAYS "HI" .
I've heard something similar where you shouldn't do all the fluid on higher mileage cars especially.
Gearbox has special system to compensate for clutches wear. It is a computer that controls pressure in the gearbox. Mechanic resets that computer right after flush or ATF replacement. System will take some time to adjust
What about adding transmission additatives?
Thanks for the video, I have a 03 gmc safari, 165000 original miles. ATF is the color of motor oil (amber brown) flush change or leave it along? Thoughts please
Infiniti G35 2005 with 58k miles. Only maintenance it has is oil changes and tires. What should I do? And should I change the automatic transmission fluid due to the low mileage? concern is the age.
I don't think he stressed this enough. Absolutely find out how to PROPERLY check the trans fluid level in your car BEFORE adding fluid if you think it's low.
Like he said, some manufactures require the engine to be off. Or running in park. Or running at normal operating temperature. Or running the shifter through all the gears and waiting five minutes before checking the level... etc.
The reason I say this is because you can ruin your transmission very quickly by adding too much fluid. I just want to caution any diy'ers out there. Because it is very easy to pull out the dipstick, not see any fluid on it and add to the full mark like you would with the engine oil. When in reality what you have just done is make a ticking timebomb inside your trannny,
Quit telling people bullshit.
Dipstick? LOL! Most cars don't even have a trans dipstick these days, some don't have an ENGINE OIL dipstick!
@@fubartotale3389 our Mercedes’ doesn’t. It has an oil level sensor that you have to look for deep in the menu. After you change the oil it is a bit nerve wracking as it doesn’t tell you anything for a few minutes.
@@fubartotale3389😂😂
I had mine changed once & transmission filter too. Drove well for a while then boom started slipping all at once. My Dad had it done one time then right after that boom his transmission went out. So I'm skeptical about it.
This video fails to mention new fluid has detergents, which can unstick crud in the transmission and clog it up. Fluid changes are the best thing you can do for a transmission but you have to do it from the beginning; at 30k, for instance, and then every 30k after that. If you try to do it with 120k you can ruin the transmission.
Flushed or drain and fill?
@@ravepornI did a drain and fill on a Ford escape and Toyota Camry at about 210k and 220k respectively after having not touched the transmissions since around 100k for each. No problems.
Thank you! one question, my chevy traverse 2015 transmission is working well, but when it changes from i think is 3rd to 4th the car feels like shaking, and i need to give a little push more on the accelerator to pass it to next shift and the shaking goes away. It has been maintaining the same, not better or worse, since i bought it used, about 2.5 years now. Should a transmission fluod change be good in this case? It has about 75K miles. Thank you!
I have a 2013 jeep wrangler sport. Over the years it started to have a problem with the first shift of the day. The colder the ambient temp the worst is the first shift. Sometimes stall in reverse or drive. After that it was fine. Dealer "could not duplicate the problem". Typical dealer BS. I have an on board computer that visually shows all engine and transmission data in real time. I did notice that the fluid takes time to warm up. Once warmed the operating transmission temp is 168-172. It takes a while to warm up. It has never over heated. I can see the temp while driving. It fluctuates less that 5 degrees. If i warm the jeep for a half hour the problem is greatly decreased or eliminated almost to normal. I was thinking of changing the crankcase position sensor. My fuel consumption is poor when warming up for a half hour. I do long distance driving. My mpg after a 1300 mile trip tops 26 mpg. In the city i get 17-18 mpg. I have 80k miles on jeep. All parts are OEM. I hope its not the torque converter. If it was i dont belive the problem would go away...but it does. The next day it happens again. In a hot climate the problem is greatly reduced on first shift. What i do is shift to drive first, less torque then reverse. I have tried almost everything. HELP!
Am i the only one with this problem...ok the video was good...any comment on my email?
It's a huge mixed bag of Answers as much as Questions as what to do with your Automatic Transmission Fluid ???
Flushing the Transmission can usually do more Harm than good ??
IF you're like me and prefer to change All your car's fluids.
Just drain the Fluids and refill.
I have a question the gauge on the car keeps going from Hot back to center and when I get oil changed flush transmission however this is a 2004 sienna and I don’t know when was the last time transmission service could be the thermostat that needs fixed?
I have a Dodge Caravan. There is no transmission check stick opening. When do I change transmission oil???
drain and fill
Drain, measure & refill.
I just bought a 94 Toyota pickup with 157k miles. I checked the trans fluid from the dip stick and it’s brownish not black and burnt. Would you recommend and change the filter and fluid?
All a sealed unit means is the filter is not serviceable. I have yet to see a transmission that didn't have a drain plug or a way to fill it. Most people never think about their transmission until it does something stupid. Then they realize they have never serviced it. ATF is extremely high detergent. Introducing new fluid literally starts cleaning the inside of your unit. Debris finally finds its way to a solenoid or shift valve. Then people equate fluid change with failure. Fluid didn't make your transmission fail, that 180k miles on it did.
I've never heard of checking Trans fluid with the engine off but a lot of Chrysler products requires checking with the trans. In netural with the E brake on
I have a X Trail Hy brid how often should I change the transmission fluid
The problem with a transmission flush, does the filter get changed?
Great explaining. Is there a dip stick under the hood to check your transmission fluid level on the Rav 4 2013. ?
yes at intervals recomended by manufacturer,,,,, if no records change it right away
Is minor jurking also a sign to change transmission fluid?
my friend is an engineering. He designs transmission for cars. He told me if it is lifetime then you dont need to change transmission oil bc he said it will last up to 300k. He said if you never change transmission oil at 100k and decide to change then transmission can slip. He said transmission oil nowaday better than before.
I have a ford Explorer and the torque converter is shuddering I went to the dealer and they said a flush wouldn’t work if converter is weak . Flushing it would be a bandaid. Taking back in this week for another look see.
The best way to change your transmission fluid is to drive for 20 minutes and pump out 1 quart. Then add a fresh quart. Drive the car for another 15 minutes, and pump out another quart. Do this several times until you have pumped out and added five new quarts.
I drive a 2015.5 Volvo S60, turbo 5. Cyl. It has 66,000 miles on it, and the owners manual says it is lifetime lubricant, and there is no dipstick present to even check it. I am thinking I’ll ask the dealer change the fluid this summer. What is your feeling on this one?
If it is part of maintenance, why do most cars now come WITHOUT a transmission dipstick?
I've never changed my transmission fluid it has 112,000. Miles will I damage the transmission if I change it now??
Agree...30k makes the most overall sense.
I asked jiffy lube to change the transmission fluid in a '78 Mustang and they refused. They said there's too great a risk that I'll lose the reverse gear.
My Toyota prius never needs change and I also had Vw Eurovan and it didn't never need change.
Center & other workshops due to the unavailableilty of the spare part. There are many other owners who are driving daily with the fear of the ATF cooler replacement and AT failures at anytime.
Please advise us with your expertise view on this and suggest us is there any other alternative for this issues and is it possible to use any after market ATF coolers to resolve the issue for the long term usage of our cars.
Your expertise and advice would help many thousand owners.
Thanks in advance
I own a 2022 Infiniti QX50 with CVT. It has around 7,000 miles and am planning to have CVT flushed and new filter at 10,000 by the Infiniti dealer to get any contamination from the break-in period out and start the rest of the vehicle's life with fresh clean CVT fluid. Do you think this is a good idea?
Cvt has less movement you should change the transmission fluid 30 thousand to 60 thousand milles ...you can even go all the way to 100 thousand if you want to push it.
@@joseRodriguez-pk9ld A CVT needs more fluid changes not less.
Nissan cvt is problem and I would every 30k miles after this initial change.
I have a 1989 Toyota Camry that is in GREAT condition. BUT, my transmission is beginning to "slip" on occasion. At the price of vehicles these days, I will drive this car until it does not run any longer. I've been quoted $3500.00 to repair the transmission. Are there any fixes that I can do to prolong the life of this car? I baby it, and do not drive it more than is necessary. I've had it a looooooooooong time, and DO NOT wish to replace it, if I can possibly avoid it.
My car had done 125k miles and I changed it, but mainly because my driveshaft slipped out while changing a balljoint, but it's fine now, so yes, imo
check your warranty, flushing or changing on your own and not by the dealer can void the warranty. Jiffy Lube was tested 3 out of 5 shops didn't even change the oil or filter, 1 did but not the filter and only 1 did the job, They ALL highly recommended a transmission flush (again voids the warranty)
That’s what I first read 20 years ago, especially for automatic transmissions. And if you tow much you should be even more mindful.
WAUUUU am always amazed with 56 years old you always learn something never knew there was a difference between a flush and changed transmission fluid tks buddy. i knew the rule at the end old vehicle you don't know the history leave it alone.
I have a 2001 Nissan Xterra with 195 ,000 miles and I bought it a year and a half ago with about 9,000 miles less than now and I bought it from the original owner who always maintained it and his son said that he thinks the man had a total flush done at the dealership around 60,000 miles and it’s working fine and I want to ask do you think I should look at the fluid and if pink and looks good do a passive flush with a tube or just the pan filter and gasket or if dark and dirty and smelly leave it alone I’m thinking it looks okay… ? I’m also going to say I have no maintenance records and I know it was taken good care of and garage kept the interior is immaculate. I don’t know what I should do?
Nice work, traffic communication skills. Great use of humor throughout your video.
How about those cars with "no change transmission fluid"?