At 11:26, that is a JIC fitting and should never have 'thread sealer'. If it leaks, you have a problem with the hose end or the fitting and need to address the problem, not try to 'seal' it. When you shut off the remote valve, make sure you take the lift lever out of the "continuous position".
Yes I agree, but I have seen the fittings have burrs and other problems that could cause a small leak or drip. Yes when I move the selector to operate the 3pt I move the draft control lever back to the two dots on the quadrant.
Always wanted to do this but the unknown thing what stopped me was does you can opperater 3-point and having like hydraulic top link or it newer works together?
That lever that you move to select the 3pt hydraulics or the auxiliary hydraulics can be set anywhere in between to provide flow to both but I’ve never tried it because ultimately both will end up being twice as slow.
@@BlackLabGarage I have a slightly different version with only the change over valve. Mine is a one or the other setting. In between blocks all flow and puts a lot of pressure on the pump.
@@BlackLabGarage I have a version that only has the the change over valve. For mine the external controll valve sits on a front mounted fork lift attachment.
@@leonhardtkristensen4093 I have a diverter valve like you are talking about installed on another tractor of mine. The controls for the hydraulics on that tractor are beside the seat but you could mount them anywhere using a diverter valve.
That's the only way you can get yours to work? It will work without the draft lever being all the way back, it just won't be in constant pumping according to the manual.@@Farmer_scoobs
Unless your hydraulic pump has been replaced with the newer style pump that has piston rings I wouldn't use it. The original hydraulic pump pistons had no rings and were just close tolerance and depended on the thicker viscosity of the 90 weight mineral oil to build pressure. If your pistons are ring less when you use the thinner viscosity universal oil you will find that it doesn't lift good at all when it warms up if it lifts at all. But if the pump has been replaced with the newer style with rings then the universal tractor oil will be ok. The hydraulics, transmission, and rear end all use the same oil
@@theproudONE92 yes it will be close to 8 gallons. Tractor Supply carries it in two gallon jugs. It says for older Ford tractors on it. Napa carries it in 5 gallon jugs. Its SAE 90 GL1 mineral oil
Nice video, I do appreciate you posting this video. That is what I need to replace on my MF-65. Thank you!
@@Dan-qy1rg thank you! I hope it helps you out. I can say the valve is still working just fine on my TO-35.
At 11:26, that is a JIC fitting and should never have 'thread sealer'. If it leaks, you have a problem with the hose end or the fitting and need to address the problem, not try to 'seal' it.
When you shut off the remote valve, make sure you take the lift lever out of the "continuous position".
Yes I agree, but I have seen the fittings have burrs and other problems that could cause a small leak or drip. Yes when I move the selector to operate the 3pt I move the draft control lever back to the two dots on the quadrant.
hi.. @blacklab garage if you recommend the external single valve suitable for MF 241DI model?
This was very helpful to me, so many thanks.
@@brianacott371 you’re very welcome!
Very helpful. Much appreciated.
@@Redhackle You’re welcome! Thank you for your kind words.
I missed His Source of Supply to acquire the Valve Assy.
The link is in the description for the video. That's the exact one I used.
Found them online or ebay $300 to $350 ish. Just searched MF35 hydrolic valve kit
Always wanted to do this but the unknown thing what stopped me was does you can opperater 3-point and having like hydraulic top link or it newer works together?
That lever that you move to select the 3pt hydraulics or the auxiliary hydraulics can be set anywhere in between to provide flow to both but I’ve never tried it because ultimately both will end up being twice as slow.
@@BlackLabGarage I have a slightly different version with only the change over valve. Mine is a one or the other setting. In between blocks all flow and puts a lot of pressure on the pump.
It appears you forgot to put the O ring on the stand pipe.
@@MrjackieG no it’s on there. It had new ones on it when I rebuilt the hydraulic pump so I reused those. I didn’t remove the oring and change it
Does it have a continuous flow function? For an application that has its own hydraulic control.
I don’t believe so.
@@BlackLabGarage I have a version that only has the the change over valve. For mine the external controll valve sits on a front mounted fork lift attachment.
@@leonhardtkristensen4093 I have a diverter valve like you are talking about installed on another tractor of mine. The controls for the hydraulics on that tractor are beside the seat but you could mount them anywhere using a diverter valve.
Where did the kit come from and whats the P/N?
It came from Amazon. The link is in the description.
Does the draft lever need to all the way up
According to the manual both the position control lever and the draft control lever need to be fully up to provide constant pumping.
@@BlackLabGarage working now with draft lever at the bottom
That's the only way you can get yours to work? It will work without the draft lever being all the way back, it just won't be in constant pumping according to the manual.@@Farmer_scoobs
Can I use Walmart Universal tractor transmission oil for MF 35 rear differential and tranny?
Unless your hydraulic pump has been replaced with the newer style pump that has piston rings I wouldn't use it. The original hydraulic pump pistons had no rings and were just close tolerance and depended on the thicker viscosity of the 90 weight mineral oil to build pressure. If your pistons are ring less when you use the thinner viscosity universal oil you will find that it doesn't lift good at all when it warms up if it lifts at all. But if the pump has been replaced with the newer style with rings then the universal tractor oil will be ok. The hydraulics, transmission, and rear end all use the same oil
@BlackLabGarage thank you very much for the info. Where can I get the oil for a decent price? And I believe it's 8 gallons right?
@@theproudONE92 yes it will be close to 8 gallons. Tractor Supply carries it in two gallon jugs. It says for older Ford tractors on it. Napa carries it in 5 gallon jugs. Its SAE 90 GL1 mineral oil
@@BlackLabGarage got it thank you BLG
Mine has and recommends 90 w gear oil