Thanks for sharing this video. I'd like to give it a go for a few of my knives. Something you might want to try to keep small glue ups from shifting is a few dabs of super glue between the wood glue. The super glue acts like a clamp to keep the pieces from shifting while the wood glue dries. I learned that by watching Izzy Swan.
Just did the band saw work yesterday for my marking knife sheath. I could not figure out how to hollow out the interior of the sheath, Now I know. Bought the same Ridgid router last week and now so this will be the first use for it. Thank you for the video.
I know it's been quite awhile since this video, but I'd have gone with some Aqua Fortis to really bring out the grain on that Curly Maple sheath prior to the poly. I'm a sucker for Curly Maple with a great flame job and you won't beat Aqua Fortis or Magic Maple for that. Thanks. Fantastic job. God bless: Stoney
Looks good Sean. I made an ulu knife for my wife and it needs a sheath so this gives me some motivation.i personally like the darker one both look great tho
I don't have half the tools you do, and the ones I do have are almost entirely hand tools. BUT I will make this work, I am a knife maker with no leather workers or wood workers to help me. So lets begin this adventure!
Great work, no doubt. Give this a try: 1- cut two slices of the wood just like you did and mark the knife shape on just one of them. 2- use chisels to cut the knife shape, make it deeper towards the ricasso and shallow towards the tip of the knife. 3- during the cutting always clamp the pieces together and put the knife inside until it firmly locks on it not super tight but tight, it will loosen a bit when you oil it. 4- once you've completed step 3, apply some oil to the part the knife will be touching on the sheath. (I've used transparent mineral oil) it will reduce friction and protect the knife from rust, it really helps preventing rust. 5- glue the parts together with cianoacrilate (super glue) or epoxy, those wooden glues have given up before, so I don't trust them. And that's it, you're gonna have a sheet that firmly holds the knife and protects it from rust. The ones I make can be turned upside down with the knife in them and shaken, the knife won't fall, when you need the knife you pull it out without much effort and it comes out making a nice "click" sound.
Do you think it’s safe to use wooden sheaths for heavy knives? I’m considering making one for my Becker BK22, but it’s way heavier than the knife you show here so I’m not sure if the same technique for making the sheath will scale proportionately. What are your thoughts?
I like both, Sean, but I lean a bit more to the Chechen. Perhaps if you had hit the maple with some stain, dye, or garnet shellac first to bring out the curl in the maple i would have liked it more. That's just a preference thing though. As I said, I do like them both.
@@felipereyes1440 If the glove gets snagged it can pull you into the blade (or whatever angry bits the power tool have) and then you start losing body parts. I've been a woodworker for 14 years and no, never using gloves. Also, be aware of loose shirt arms and hoodie strings.
Thanks for sharing this video. I'd like to give it a go for a few of my knives. Something you might want to try to keep small glue ups from shifting is a few dabs of super glue between the wood glue. The super glue acts like a clamp to keep the pieces from shifting while the wood glue dries. I learned that by watching Izzy Swan.
Just did the band saw work yesterday for my marking knife sheath. I could not figure out how to hollow out the interior of the sheath, Now I know. Bought the same Ridgid router last week and now so this will be the first use for it. Thank you for the video.
Very nice, Sean. I think I prefer the darker look.
Thanks Steve!
Very nice detail, super neat!
Thanks for watching!
Great craftsmanship
I'm new to knife making, to be honest,.the level of machinery and expertise is a little overwhelming, but thanks for knowledge.
I know it's been quite awhile since this video, but I'd have gone with some Aqua Fortis to really bring out the grain on that Curly Maple sheath prior to the poly. I'm a sucker for Curly Maple with a great flame job and you won't beat Aqua Fortis or Magic Maple for that.
Thanks. Fantastic job.
God bless:
Stoney
Wow amazing
Nice job
Hi
I'm partial to ANYTHING Curly, so that's my choice! Thanks.
Stoney
Looks good Sean. I made an ulu knife for my wife and it needs a sheath so this gives me some motivation.i personally like the darker one both look great tho
Thanks Joe!
I don't have half the tools you do, and the ones I do have are almost entirely hand tools. BUT I will make this work, I am a knife maker with no leather workers or wood workers to help me. So lets begin this adventure!
They look great. Whats the green thing around your tape?
Thanks! It's the tadpole tape cutter. I've got a link in the description to my amazon store where you can find it.
Push pads on the router table...pfft...chicken!
Just kidding, great job. I like the contrast with the curly maple.
I know man, i'm a wuss! LOL Thanks for watching Tim
I like your table saw push block and fence. Are those Incra products?
the dark one looks best
Great work, no doubt.
Give this a try:
1- cut two slices of the wood just like you did and mark the knife shape on just one of them.
2- use chisels to cut the knife shape, make it deeper towards the ricasso and shallow towards the tip of the knife.
3- during the cutting always clamp the pieces together and put the knife inside until it firmly locks on it not super tight but tight, it will loosen a bit when you oil it.
4- once you've completed step 3, apply some oil to the part the knife will be touching on the sheath. (I've used transparent mineral oil) it will reduce friction and protect the knife from rust, it really helps preventing rust.
5- glue the parts together with cianoacrilate (super glue) or epoxy, those wooden glues have given up before, so I don't trust them.
And that's it, you're gonna have a sheet that firmly holds the knife and protects it from rust. The ones I make can be turned upside down with the knife in them and shaken, the knife won't fall, when you need the knife you pull it out without much effort and it comes out making a nice "click" sound.
Good video though. Very useful.
Fantastic detail. Beautiful work :) ॐ
I like that. What do you plan to use for a belt clip or something.
Thanks Stephen! For now It's going to sit in a display cabinet.
The dark wood looks better, but both sheats are great
Do you think it’s safe to use wooden sheaths for heavy knives? I’m considering making one for my Becker BK22, but it’s way heavier than the knife you show here so I’m not sure if the same technique for making the sheath will scale proportionately.
What are your thoughts?
Interesting
Just my opinion, but I think the darker sheath looks better. Regardless, fine work all around.
Haha, at 0:38....... What is that skin colored thing lying in the left side of screen :-)
It's a CRAYON . It says it right on it.
A piece of chalk.........\
the dark one much better
What's the flocking for?
To make sliding it in and out smooth and to also protect the knife from any potential moisture from the wood.
A tiny sprinkle of salt on the glue will stop the pieces squirming around during clamp up
I like both, Sean, but I lean a bit more to the Chechen. Perhaps if you had hit the maple with some stain, dye, or garnet shellac first to bring out the curl in the maple i would have liked it more. That's just a preference thing though. As I said, I do like them both.
Yeah I thought about throwing a stain or dye at the curly maple. If I make another one I for sure will. Thanks for watching!
Bug guts will do wonders for the inside of the sheath.
Great video.
However, I suggest you to use gloves, you could hurt your finger badly with a saw.
You shouldn't wear gloves with power tools.
@@Simplecove Why?.
(I am not that used to power tools, sorry for my ignorance).
@@felipereyes1440 If the glove gets snagged it can pull you into the blade (or whatever angry bits the power tool have) and then you start losing body parts.
I've been a woodworker for 14 years and no, never using gloves. Also, be aware of loose shirt arms and hoodie strings.
@@kristoffer-robinlotze7273 Okay, thanks! I am quite a noob so advice is appreciated.