One thing we can cover here is UV bulb efficiency. The actual UV-c measurement of a high quality UV manufacturer vs the cheap Chinese brand using a uvc meter. Usually heigh efficency bulbs are rated for 35% output. A detailed analysis will be great
Question about the sediment filter method combined with a uv sterilizer, on a long enough timeline where no new fish, corals, or inverts are added to the system would we ever achieve full eradication?
That's a great question and one that I'm not sure anyone knows the answer to. Since we don't have a perfect turnover rate, I suspect that you'd never reach full eradication, but you could likely get the population of the various diseases in the tank to a very very low level.
A question about the sediment filter method, as I can't find any info about it online. Can you use it while medicating the QT? Like Cupramine or Paraguard
If you keep the QT medicated at a therapeutic level, the sediment filter shouldn't be necessary. The idea behind the sediment filter is that if you're using a smaller micron sediment filter than the parasite itself, it'll get caught up in the filter where you can easily remove it.
Great video. Quick question/thought for you two. I have a cleaner shrimp and I assumed they also eat parasites (that's why I got him). Would a shrimp be part of management? If so, could a shrimp be used to gauge if a fish was infected with something (i.e. a fish who gets cleaned frequently but is visually fine)
Thanks guys! Hey could you maybe also do a video about “sterilizing” fish, inverts, hermit crabs etc of coral pests? Like does the fish parasite medication also flush out coral pests and unwanted algaes of them? There’s not much info online about this topic at all. Basically we are starting all our tanks over and trying to do them perfect this time with all this new info. I think sps pest/parasite complete eradication is highly possible, but when it comes to adding fish and inverts how do we “clean” them of that?
Great Video! I have a 40 gallon FOWLR tank with 2 small clowns, small royal gramma and a small lieutenant tang in the tank. My tank has been going for just over 3 and a half months. I was looking at adding a small hardy fish. Would you guys know a hardy fish I could add? Your input would be MUCH appreciated. THANK you for any help
I'm in the middle of a breakout. It came from nowhere in spite of great care. Everything is great except for the fish. I believe the carrier to be a really sick Naso that does not die. Its blacked out but vivace.
All my fish died recently and im pretty sure it was ick ALL my fish died. How should i deal with my tank? Should i just do a huge water change or just do incremental ones
If your goal is to eradicate disease, you'll want to leave the tank fallow (fishless) for 76 days. This will be more than enough time to starve out many common diseases like ich, velvet, and brook.
I have had fish live long term(more than 10 years) without a UV light. I disagree the parasites are in all tanks. Also, the more you try to prevent ick by treating fish in a quarantine tank the more fish you will loose. Spot on about the parasite magnets. Powder Blue anyone?
Question: I like the idea of the custom isolation box. If I can't DIY one like that what is the second best method? Like a large isolation box with a PVC pipe to hide in and let them sit in there for a week? What if I am introducing multiple fish at a time? Loving this series guys, thanks for the awesome information!
I dont get it. So even if a fish, lets say a tang, is quarantined for 30 days, and you put them in a display tank, they can still infect everyone with ick if they become stressed? I have lost every tang I've owned. Tried different salts, rodi systems, water parameters good. They always die on me within 2 weeks. This last blue hippo tang I bought from LFS and started off in a quarantine tank with 1.5ppm copper and it died the next day.
Ultimately, it will depend on the origin of the sand. If it's coming from another reefer's tank, then it can certainly introduce parasites and disease.
Ryan is the best, learning a lot from his teachings
will the uv sterilizer kill copepods, and good biodiversity in the tank?
What’s is a good reference for finding out more info about fish. For example which are ich magnets. How long they live in captivity etc
Is the use of ozone useful in dicease management?
which sediment canister and filter are you using and where can i get it? it seems to be a 20” one but i can’t find it on brs.
One thing we can cover here is UV bulb efficiency. The actual UV-c measurement of a high quality UV manufacturer vs the cheap Chinese brand using a uvc meter. Usually heigh efficency bulbs are rated for 35% output. A detailed analysis will be great
I got a 25 watt for my 75 gallon with 25 gallon sump. Is this big enough? Or should I have got the 40
Question about the sediment filter method combined with a uv sterilizer, on a long enough timeline where no new fish, corals, or inverts are added to the system would we ever achieve full eradication?
That's a great question and one that I'm not sure anyone knows the answer to. Since we don't have a perfect turnover rate, I suspect that you'd never reach full eradication, but you could likely get the population of the various diseases in the tank to a very very low level.
A question about the sediment filter method, as I can't find any info about it online. Can you use it while medicating the QT? Like Cupramine or Paraguard
If you keep the QT medicated at a therapeutic level, the sediment filter shouldn't be necessary. The idea behind the sediment filter is that if you're using a smaller micron sediment filter than the parasite itself, it'll get caught up in the filter where you can easily remove it.
Great video. Quick question/thought for you two. I have a cleaner shrimp and I assumed they also eat parasites (that's why I got him). Would a shrimp be part of management? If so, could a shrimp be used to gauge if a fish was infected with something (i.e. a fish who gets cleaned frequently but is visually fine)
So my question is for crabs and snails. Qt them in a fishless tank for 76 days? Or do I need to medicate them?
Thanks guys! Hey could you maybe also do a video about “sterilizing” fish, inverts, hermit crabs etc of coral pests? Like does the fish parasite medication also flush out coral pests and unwanted algaes of them? There’s not much info online about this topic at all.
Basically we are starting all our tanks over and trying to do them perfect this time with all this new info. I think sps pest/parasite complete eradication is highly possible, but when it comes to adding fish and inverts how do we “clean” them of that?
You should watch humblefish videos and check out the forum
@@margrzy2875 thank you
Great Video! I have a 40 gallon FOWLR tank with 2 small clowns, small royal gramma and a small lieutenant tang in the tank. My tank has been going for just over 3 and a half months. I was looking at adding a small hardy fish. Would you guys know a hardy fish I could add? Your input would be MUCH appreciated. THANK you for any help
Bangi cardinals
I'm in the middle of a breakout. It came from nowhere in spite of great care. Everything is great except for the fish. I believe the carrier to be a really sick Naso that does not die. Its blacked out but vivace.
All my fish died recently and im pretty sure it was ick ALL my fish died. How should i deal with my tank? Should i just do a huge water change or just do incremental ones
If your goal is to eradicate disease, you'll want to leave the tank fallow (fishless) for 76 days. This will be more than enough time to starve out many common diseases like ich, velvet, and brook.
Can you treat parasites in FOWLR tanks? Particularly thinking about maintaining copper levels.
I would think it wouldn't work cause the rock would obsorb the copper?
That usually isn't a problem. Just don't expect to be able to keep inverts after dosing in your main display.
I have had fish live long term(more than 10 years) without a UV light. I disagree the parasites are in all tanks. Also, the more you try to prevent ick by treating fish in a quarantine tank the more fish you will loose. Spot on about the parasite magnets. Powder Blue anyone?
Question: I like the idea of the custom isolation box. If I can't DIY one like that what is the second best method? Like a large isolation box with a PVC pipe to hide in and let them sit in there for a week? What if I am introducing multiple fish at a time?
Loving this series guys, thanks for the awesome information!
There are a few companies that make isolation boxes. Eshopps makes a great one called the Tanklimate acclimation box, for example.
@@BRStv Thanks!
Great video guys. Hope people listen
And the power blue was just flicking
I dont get it. So even if a fish, lets say a tang, is quarantined for 30 days, and you put them in a display tank, they can still infect everyone with ick if they become stressed? I have lost every tang I've owned. Tried different salts, rodi systems, water parameters good. They always die on me within 2 weeks. This last blue hippo tang I bought from LFS and started off in a quarantine tank with 1.5ppm copper and it died the next day.
Why is your fish getting stressed at the first place?
I haven’t heard you two touch on if putting live sand in your reef aquarium will introduce parasites.
Ultimately, it will depend on the origin of the sand. If it's coming from another reefer's tank, then it can certainly introduce parasites and disease.
Why is it easier for a Fowler tank !?🤔
Managing parasites in a FOWLR system is easier since you don't have to worry about coral being affected by any treatment you might be using.
I Always say, Quarantine if you can.
The best reef fish tank is someone else's tank.
Nope, it’s the one you can manage properly and eventually sell frags from.
@@amermeer3989 and pay off your hobby investment and enjoy it fo freee.