Thanks man. Been building all types of cars for over 20 years and this one will be the baddest one yet for sure. I think everyone will be really stoked on this as it unfolds - trying to do things different than most GC coupe builds out there! Got a few surprises in store. Cheers! 👊
I know I've seen all your videos (that pertain to N/A) before I started my project and I can't recall if I've seen your trick for getting the cam pulleys off. Do you use the old belt with some magical brand 10mm hex? I'm about to try an extractor. I gota 2.5 dohc if it makes a difference
For an EJ251 like previous 1st gen Forester build you did, is it safe to assume that one should have the pistons in mid length as well right before assembling the heads back on the block? If the crank/pistons have moved ever since, how does one achieve mid position of the pistons for re-assembly? By aligning the crank sprocket mark at 12 o'clock also?
Yes. You are correct. For any Subaru motor, always make sure all four pistons are mid-bore for removing timing components or the heads AND when reinstalling the same parts. And for the second question, yep! Just rotate the crank so that hash mark on the back side of the crank gear is pointing straight up. Good luck buddy! 🤙
Awesome. It’s 7am Sat morning and all I can think about is getting out to the shop to continue this build! The journey continues! Cheers and thanks for joining me buddy!!! 👊
It’s been fine so far. Can’t deny that Japanese based manufacturing is always a better option, but if you got to watch the budget, these do seem to work well IMHO. Thanks!
They doing valve job too? That would definitely will add another $280-$300 to the bill for sure. Plus, costs vary a lot based on where you live and what local machine shops charge.
@@SubaruONLY ok. Sure. I think I am fine then. They redid all the intake valves. I had the straight up 'line' mixed up with the 'triangle' arrow, when trying to do the timing the first time around. I learned ALOT through that process, and this time I got the engine back together and it runs awesome now.
Some kits come with two different color valve wipers. And others come with just one color. Have you noticed any difference in their performance over time?
Hi. This does make sense! The exhaust valves get much hotter than the intake, so making those valve seals (aka wipers - love that term, never heard it!) out of a material that is more durable under high heat ranges would be ideal. But, I have not seen these yet. I’ll keep an eye out for them! Thanks!
@@SubaruONLY, I guess my shade-tree mechanic background is showing up in my lingo. It makes sense in my mind given the action of these "seals". lol Thanks for the reply. I really ike your channel. It has helped with my love/hate relationship with my 5 Subies.
Hey I’m in the middle of a ej255 build and all my machine shops around here want to charge $500-$850 to do the hot tank,pressure leak test, new valves (that I have all the parts for) does this sound quite steep on the price? I’m starting to think just do them myself without getting the heads shaved or any machine shop worl
Hey buddy. That does sound in the ball park, due to all the new valves. They’ll need to be lapped to seat property and the valve train uses shims under the buckets that often require complete assembly and disassembly multiple times to adjust the gaps correctly. I usually pay about $500 to my local machine shop, that I’ve used for years (and they give me the best deal they can), for this level or machine shop work.
I binge watched all 20 vids in this playlist.
I swear this channel is going to blow up one of these days.,
Thanks man - Awesome support!! Would be cool, if only to help fund way more cool builds and some major Motorsport events!!! Only getting started 👊
I must bel blind 'cause I can't see an engine rebuild playlist? What am I missing? Great vids though, just a pain finding them on the All list.
I need to revisit the play lists and maybe reorganize things. I’ll try to knock that out this week. Thanks for checking out the channel.
Keep up the good work. You've helped me out a lot.
Thanks a lot man!!! I’m gonna try! 👊
Can't wait for you to finish this car I'm dying to see you finish it up
Thanks man. Been building all types of cars for over 20 years and this one will be the baddest one yet for sure. I think everyone will be really stoked on this as it unfolds - trying to do things different than most GC coupe builds out there! Got a few surprises in store. Cheers! 👊
@@SubaruONLY in the future I like 2 build something swap of course so I watch you to learn thank you
Can you recommend a machine shop? I've heard of Rob's in Hayward, but I'm a little closer to you in the east bay...
I know I've seen all your videos (that pertain to N/A) before I started my project and I can't recall if I've seen your trick for getting the cam pulleys off. Do you use the old belt with some magical brand 10mm hex? I'm about to try an extractor. I gota 2.5 dohc if it makes a difference
Cool video! Thank you! I am literally just disassembling my Ej25.
Nice. Perfect timing. Glad it helped.
Is it ok to reuse a brand new MLS gasket that has been torqued down but not heat cycled? I want to pull the head back off to fix an exhaust stud...
Did you do anything to the block besides clean it during the rebuild? Hone, rings, leak down test? Looking for info for my own rebuild.
For an EJ251 like previous 1st gen Forester build you did, is it safe to assume that one should have the pistons in mid length as well right before assembling the heads back on the block? If the crank/pistons have moved ever since, how does one achieve mid position of the pistons for re-assembly? By aligning the crank sprocket mark at 12 o'clock also?
Yes. You are correct. For any Subaru motor, always make sure all four pistons are mid-bore for removing timing components or the heads AND when reinstalling the same parts. And for the second question, yep! Just rotate the crank so that hash mark on the back side of the crank gear is pointing straight up. Good luck buddy! 🤙
Good work.
Do you buy used Subaru short block too , I can supply as much as you want , EJ205 - EJ20Y- EJ20X - EJ203 SOHC - EJ255
Is it necessary to do a pressure test at the machine shop, if you did a compression test before pulling the motor and all cylinders were equal?
Not as important in that case, but still a good idea.
Great video very timely can not wait for the next one
Awesome. It’s 7am Sat morning and all I can think about is getting out to the shop to continue this build! The journey continues! Cheers and thanks for joining me buddy!!! 👊
@@SubaruONLY Luke I was watching the Timing Belt Kit video, how did the Chinese kit hold up? Would you recommend it after trying it?
It’s been fine so far. Can’t deny that Japanese based manufacturing is always a better option, but if you got to watch the budget, these do seem to work well IMHO. Thanks!
I paid $640 for two heads to be done up. Yea - they were really clean, but did I pay 200% + of what I should have?
Don't feel bad. i'm picking my heads up this afternoon and i'm paying $870.
They doing valve job too? That would definitely will add another $280-$300 to the bill for sure. Plus, costs vary a lot based on where you live and what local machine shops charge.
@@SubaruONLY ok. Sure. I think I am fine then. They redid all the intake valves. I had the straight up 'line' mixed up with the 'triangle' arrow, when trying to do the timing the first time around. I learned ALOT through that process, and this time I got the engine back together and it runs awesome now.
I guess it depends on how much work they have done. I had mine resurfaced and paid $85 for each + $20 for valve seals. so around $200 for all.
Nice! These costs are pretty variable depending on where you live. Cheers guys! 🤙
Some kits come with two different color valve wipers. And others come with just one color. Have you noticed any difference in their performance over time?
Hi. This does make sense! The exhaust valves get much hotter than the intake, so making those valve seals (aka wipers - love that term, never heard it!) out of a material that is more durable under high heat ranges would be ideal. But, I have not seen these yet. I’ll keep an eye out for them! Thanks!
@@SubaruONLY, I guess my shade-tree mechanic background is showing up in my lingo. It makes sense in my mind given the action of these "seals". lol Thanks for the reply. I really ike your channel. It has helped with my love/hate relationship with my 5 Subies.
Great to hear man!! Thanks for joining the channel!!!
Hey I’m in the middle of a ej255 build and all my machine shops around here want to charge $500-$850 to do the hot tank,pressure leak test, new valves (that I have all the parts for) does this sound quite steep on the price? I’m starting to think just do them myself without getting the heads shaved or any machine shop worl
Hey buddy. That does sound in the ball park, due to all the new valves. They’ll need to be lapped to seat property and the valve train uses shims under the buckets that often require complete assembly and disassembly multiple times to adjust the gaps correctly. I usually pay about $500 to my local machine shop, that I’ve used for years (and they give me the best deal they can), for this level or machine shop work.
@@SubaruONLY thanks bro!
👍
They getting me at 650 at my local shop. I might get it port n polished.
At what point do tou go the engine is too old for heads to be resurfaced and throw a different engine in