This video literally saved me. Im a professional mechanic and was installing an engine from a donor car in a 2012 sti. The motor was in an 05. I found out after completely tearing down both motors that the 12 have dual acvs. So heads off original motor went to the machine shop. After sitting there for over a month was informed they were unusable. Customer took all the parts to return at a later date with the parts and heads. I had everything together and organized. 3 months later i run into the customer who informs me he sold that car but has another car he wants a motor installed in. When i received the parts back there were missing peices, incorrect peices, ijust a mess. This video allowed me to finish the job and more importantly get paid. Im liking and subscribing even though i will not work on anymore subarus
This is very helpful and enthusiastically delivered - bravo Luke. I have watched this video about three times - I had been trying to refit my inlet manifold to the engine of my Forester XT - and going about it entirely wrongly! Seeing this video has educated me that it's imperative the assembly of the inlet manifold is done in the right order before attempting to refit it to the engine. I can now push on with that - and when done, the lump will be ready to go back in the car. Progress!
Thanks Luke, appreciate the effort you put in to producing these tutorials . I am really impressed with your ability to impart your knowledge in such simple and precise terms.
Excellent video. You are very thorough. Great video for beginners like me. I have a problem with my 1991 Subaru Liberty, which are called Legacy in the USA. I live in Australia. My problem goes like this: I start my car, which has a 2.2L engine, and I let it reach operating temperature. The temperature needle is in the middle. I then drive it out of the garage and start going around my neighbourhood. I don't go very far because I know my car will give me problems. About 300 metres down the road, just before I reach aroundabout, the engines stalls. With the speed that I was going I was able to make a u-turn at the roundabout. Once I completed the turn the car stopped. I restart it and I continued in 1st gear. My car is a 5 speed manual. About 20 metres down the road the engine stalled again. This happened 2 or 3 times until I drove it back to my garage. Back in January I was having this problem all the time. I got my car towed to my mechanic. He fixed it. He said he cleaned the MAF sensor. The car was going ok. After about a month the problem started. I took it back to him. This time he said diagnosed a code 35, which he said had something to do with the Purge Control Circuit. He said he cleaned the Evaporative valve and the PCV valve. The next day the engine was over revving. I took it back to him, with great difficulty. It's hard to drive a car when it is over revving. Anyway, he fixed it but not satisfactorily. It was going ok until 4 weeks ago. The problem started again. Again, the engine started stalling as I'm driving along. So, I started learning about sensors and ECU. Interesting stuff. It's not easy to understand but I have some of how cars work, especially old cars, 70's, and early 80's cars. However, sensors and ECU'S are a new technology. I'll still study and learn about this technology. What do you think is wrong with my Subaru Luke?
Hey brother man, I’ve been watching all your videos seeing as how I decided to buy my first Subaru almost 6 months ago now. I was/still am for the most part pretty clueless when it comes to vehicles but a local shop, my tuner, and YOU mostly, have helped me out a ton. So thank you brother. I bought an 07 sti with 74k miles with surprisingly a bunch of legit maintenance paper work. I brought it to the shop, had them do my head gaskets, new belts, along with a few other smaller things. After paying 2k I promised myself I’m going to learn how to work on my damn car, it’s been a blast. Since then, I’ve installed a rad, rad fan shroud, all new hose, new wheels and tires, coilovers, took the big ol wing off, flushed and filled fluids, installed some gauges, and the new oil pan, baffle and pick up. Have a tons more plans but just wanted to say your videos are fucking rad and mega informational. Keep on doing what your doing man, sorry for the whole book hah
This is a really helpful piece, well done. I had to replace the hard fuel lines under my WRX manifold and this was so helpful in advising me which bits of the ancillaries went were...Thanks a million
@@SubaruONLY how would I successfully delete my fuel canister without getting a check engine light? The factory mounting bracket location is rotted and I don’t want it to fall off while driving and potentially become a problem or hazard
Thanks man! Im finally puting my longblock back together after a few months and i needed a refresher on how to button it up before puting it back in. Awesome video! im definetly subscribing!!!!
If you take all of your old bolts to a hardware store, you can get correct new ones fairly easily. Sometimes they will even have stainless or chrome if you want to make things more shiny
If you live in colder climates, it's a good idea to replace those rubber fuel lines/hose clamps with higher quality ones! In colder temperatures, those old lines leak fuel on start up.
just discovered that i can do this. doing it now while re-assembling an engine. i'll report back if i have any failures. apparently the JDM EJ207 is an identical layout, minus the check valve. it simplifies that whole arrangement significantly.
Installing phenolic spacers on my 02 2.5 SOHC, I stripped a couple of bolt threads. 18.1 ft.lbs? Yes that's what the Subaru shop manual says. Found one Subaru tech on TH-cam who said they only need about 10 ft.lbs. Eventually re-intalled the spacers with longer bolts than supplied and torqued to 10 ft.lbs.
Thank you very much Luke for the excellent and clear tutorial. I"ve got a 2011 Tturbo Forester and willbe following your upcoming videos with great interest :) first time subscriber :)
Thanks. Sorry buddy, meant it look those up. Bought them years ago (all bulk buys are like once every three years), so couldn’t remember where I got them. Look for zinc plated, grade 8 if possible. If can’t find that, just try to find a set that are made somewhere other than China (only cause most raw metal out of that region is not the best quality).
Thanks for the videos! They are great. I agree with replacing he rubber hoses on the fuel hard lines but I noticed the hoses were stamped coolant. Shouldn't you use fuel rated hoses? I would hate to have fuel degrade the hoses and cause a leak down the road or clog injectors. Correct me if I'm wrong.
Luke, love all your videos, thank you for providing them. My question, I have a 95 V2 STi RA with a closed lid. I want to paint my intake manifold that wrinkle red, is there anything I need to know about that varies from you EJ25 manifold, say my 5th injector? Cheers!
Thank you for posting this video! I’d imagine the process is very similar for an ‘05 Outback XT ej25 right? Off topic: Luke, my car’s heater core is busted(inlet hose came clamped). I’m planning on doing a heater core bypass for now. It should be fine running a #4 cylinder cooling mod from the bypass right?
Luke Thanks for the videos, appreciate the effort you put into them. I was wondering where you found the zinc plated bolts, most likely Amazon. However how do you know what pitch you need? I know some are 8mm x 1.25 but are the 6 & 10’s the same pitch? What heads are on your 205? Your valve covers are different than mine I have D25 heads that came off of a EJ255, anyway polishing them out looks good not great, but little by little I guess. Thank for your assistance.
The hose that you are bending up at 22:53, what is the hardpipe that it is attached to called? I have a coolant leak and I think it is coming from that hard line but I cant find any info about it.
I just bought a 2002 impreza wrx sport wagon with the ej205. It had a boost leak so i started pulling all the hoses that were hard, brittle, or that have failed. I had to do my valve cover gaskets as well. Everything is done but im so lost on which of the hoses go where. I think a video on vacuum/heater hose locations would be very useful. I cant find a good one anywhere. Im pausing video to get an idea of what the prepped motor and prepped intake look like with hose locations. Kind of a pain in the butt but i have to do something. Any recommendations on a good source so i can get this thing back to being driveable.
Hey buddy, I feel ya, been there. I don’t have any videos that cover everything. I have one on the intake manifold and all fuel EGR lines. But non covering all the vacuum for the turbo system, HOWEVER, check out this link: cobbtuning.atlassian.net/wiki/spaces/PRS/pages/615088215/How+Subaru+s+Factory+Boost+Control+System+Works It’s to a COBB page that covers the Subaru turbo system and all vacuum line. It’s a great resource, and has some great pictures that show all the vacuum lines connected to the correct spots. Hope this helps, good luck! 👍
How do you recommend cleaning the injectors? And some of the bolts were different lengths when I removed them, I took photos of them all but if I were to replace them all with zinc coated would I need to find the right sizes or would one size fit all of them?
Like I have a question on the driver side of the intake on the bottom there’s a port for a hose do you know what hose goes there or can you tell me what hose goes there?
I'm a Soobie Newbie; been building old Chevys and Hondas most of my life. I found an '04 Forester XT on craigslist for a good price with the caveat that it doesn't run. Got it towed to my house, now I have to get it running lol. It has a fuel leak beneath the turbo inlet and I need to address that before I can do any troubleshooting as to why it doesn't turn over. I've seen videos where people remove the stock inlet by destroying it but I don't want to do that. So I'm thinking I need to remove the intake manifold in order to get beneath the turbo inlet. So I guess what I'm asking is, whether or not I can remove the intake manifold without messing with the TGVs? It looks like I might be able to remove the manifold with the TGVs attached to it and not have to bother with the gaskets between them. Just trying to get this baby cranking for now and before I do that I just need to replace that tiny section of hose. WHAT HAVE I GOTTEN MYSELF INTO 🤣🤣🤣🤣😎😎
I did this to replace my turbo inlet pipe, also removed the turbo, now fully assembled, I drove it about a mile and the check engine light came on and got lots of smoke from the turbo, checked flash codes and gave me code 22 for knock sensor but it didn't even touch that, help!
At around 19:20 you talk about the broken plastic tee fitting. Mine is broken on my '04 Forester XT, but I cannot find a part number for it. And I did look thru Amazon SubaruONLY. Anybody know what it's called by Subaru?
Yes, it’s part of the purge valve for fuel vapors. Think you need this - Part Number: 22310AC241 Link here to confirm: www.subarupartwholesale.com/p/Subaru__WRX/Hose-Vacuum/49231575/22310AC241.html
Great video! Would you know by any chance how many hours it takes to install a new turbo inlet hose? Technical information I have paid for says 13 hours but that doesn’t seem right to me. I know the manifold needs to be removed to install it but I still never expected to see 13 hours
Again, depends on intended use. They help with cold starts and smoother warmups, which is a good thing. But if you’re heading down the path of more HP and aftermarket parts, it’s a good idea to remove them. Either option is a good choice.
I just had my intake manifold removed to replace the turbo inlet and now my air conditioner is blowing hot air do you know if you remove ac refrigerant lines when you remove the intake manifold my are my car works good up until now and I just had it recharged 10 months ago along with high-pressure refrigerant hose and seals
I dont want to bother u but is there a way i can contact u for help i have a 02 bugeye and my mom bought a 01 forester engine and my dad put the 02 intake manifold on and he said hed help me build it but he isnt helping at all ive looked at diagrams the service manual but i dont know where the vacuum lines go
Hey man, great video, very detailed and clearly explained. Subscribed. Question: What is that piece called at minute 18:50 that comes out of the intake manifold?
Will this red intake manifold dose made good impressions to Subaru sti lover so complex to even removed .I can emerging how Japanese engineer design and made from scratch.
YOU WOULDN’T HAPPEN TO HAVE PART NUMBERS FOR THE HOSES THST GO TO THE REAR OF THE INTAKE AND THE REAR THROTTLE BODY 2 black hoses I can’t find anywhere
@@SubaruONLY 550,000 english pounds = close to a 1 million us $ - have a took some test drives ! prodrive subaru 22b RS - nice videos keep safe and well , from Australia down under.
This is a BIG one! All depends on the intended use and budget. Good shocks and OEM coils are a pleasure to drive, nothing like the smooth OEM ride. But for serious performance, nothing will compare with a GOOD set of coilovers. Note the caps, lol. For me, cheap coilovers are no where near a good set of shocks and OEM coils. But in med to high range for coilovers, there are a lot of really good options - but once you step up to this level, it’s even more important to make a choice based on intended use! RallyX, Stage Rally, Autocross, High Speed Street use, all slightly different function and design - so choose wisely and talk to the pros at each respective company (they all want to help, so they’ll offer lots of info if you reach out!). Hope this helps, cheers!!!
Where are you ordering all your OEM spec hardware from? No local stores carry any quality metals like that. I've gone to the great lengths of ordering "zinc" plated hardware just to find some pre-rusted, black coated hardware at my doorstep. I think at least 10 other people are asking the same thing, share your wisdom damnit lol
04' Forester. 2.0L Ej20. 5 spd. Did the rubber fuel line replacement[s]. Stock engine. I have the TGV spacers, but no Butterfly valves, no electronics, etc. The TGV "SPACERS" [I'll call them that] look very factory stock, rough edges and all. No Drill holes, no marks whatsoever where the rod would typically go thru. DID some of these engines come with just the SPACERS and no Butterfly valves? I call this a 3 piece intake, as I can unbolt the SPACERS from the intake. Also, Wiring harness does not have any type of connections anywhere IF these were change out. Any thoughts on this? Do I have a pre-TGV engine? but I have spacers......weird.
Wonder if you can help me out? The pcv connector also have a sensor that needs to be connected so code p1491 won’t pop up. My question is do you know where that cable harness is located ? I installed the a new pcv valve but can’t seem to find that cable any where. Thanks in advance
I need to change the coolant pipe O ring gasket that pass through the intake bottom, so maybe I will not need to uninstall every intake parts, thats coolant pipe have some leaks 🤔
Drinking game, take a shot every time luke says "sucker".
Totally!!! 😉🤙
Double-shot for "bad boy".
This video literally saved me. Im a professional mechanic and was installing an engine from a donor car in a 2012 sti. The motor was in an 05. I found out after completely tearing down both motors that the 12 have dual acvs. So heads off original motor went to the machine shop. After sitting there for over a month was informed they were unusable. Customer took all the parts to return at a later date with the parts and heads. I had everything together and organized. 3 months later i run into the customer who informs me he sold that car but has another car he wants a motor installed in. When i received the parts back there were missing peices, incorrect peices, ijust a mess. This video allowed me to finish the job and more importantly get paid. Im liking and subscribing even though i will not work on anymore subarus
Thank GOD someone made this. Did not take enough notes disassembling mine and I'm completely lost. You are the absolute man!!!
I couldnt find all the pics i took and am in the same position.Shoulda seen my trying to figure out how the long fuel rail goes haha
The amount of excellent content to come from the 2020 Era is underrated.
@@kottke25 thanks!!!
This is very helpful and enthusiastically delivered - bravo Luke. I have watched this video about three times - I had been trying to refit my inlet manifold to the engine of my Forester XT - and going about it entirely wrongly! Seeing this video has educated me that it's imperative the assembly of the inlet manifold is done in the right order before attempting to refit it to the engine. I can now push on with that - and when done, the lump will be ready to go back in the car. Progress!
Thanks Luke, appreciate the effort you put in to producing these tutorials . I am really impressed with your ability to impart your knowledge in such simple and precise terms.
reminds me of watching powerblock TV back in the day. I don't even need to take off my intake manifold but it helps to know, now that I know
I should have watched this before tackling my 20x intake manifold. Everyone here would've just shook their head. Thanks a tonne!
Excellent video. You are very thorough. Great video for beginners like me. I have a problem with my 1991 Subaru Liberty, which are called Legacy in the USA. I live in Australia.
My problem goes like this:
I start my car, which has a 2.2L engine, and I let it reach operating temperature. The temperature needle is in the middle. I then drive it out of the garage and start going around my neighbourhood. I don't go very far because I know my car will give me problems. About 300 metres down the road, just before I reach aroundabout, the engines stalls. With the speed that I was going I was able to make a u-turn at the roundabout. Once I completed the turn the car stopped. I restart it and I continued in 1st gear. My car is a 5 speed manual. About 20 metres down the road the engine stalled again. This happened 2 or 3 times until I drove it back to my garage. Back in January I was having this problem all the time. I got my car towed to my mechanic. He fixed it. He said he cleaned the MAF sensor. The car was going ok. After about a month the problem started. I took it back to him. This time he said diagnosed a code 35, which he said had something to do with the Purge Control Circuit. He said he cleaned the Evaporative valve and the PCV valve. The next day the engine was over revving. I took it back to him, with great difficulty. It's hard to drive a car when it is over revving. Anyway, he fixed it but not satisfactorily. It was going ok until 4 weeks ago. The problem started again. Again, the engine started stalling as I'm driving along.
So, I started learning about sensors and ECU. Interesting stuff. It's not easy to understand but I have some of how cars work, especially old cars, 70's, and early 80's cars. However, sensors and ECU'S are a new technology. I'll still study and learn about this technology.
What do you think is wrong with my Subaru Luke?
Hey brother man, I’ve been watching all your videos seeing as how I decided to buy my first Subaru almost 6 months ago now. I was/still am for the most part pretty clueless when it comes to vehicles but a local shop, my tuner, and YOU mostly, have helped me out a ton. So thank you brother. I bought an 07 sti with 74k miles with surprisingly a bunch of legit maintenance paper work. I brought it to the shop, had them do my head gaskets, new belts, along with a few other smaller things. After paying 2k I promised myself I’m going to learn how to work on my damn car, it’s been a blast. Since then, I’ve installed a rad, rad fan shroud, all new hose, new wheels and tires, coilovers, took the big ol wing off, flushed and filled fluids, installed some gauges, and the new oil pan, baffle and pick up. Have a tons more plans but just wanted to say your videos are fucking rad and mega informational. Keep on doing what your doing man, sorry for the whole book hah
Legit man! Thanks and really appreciate you taking the time to drop this message!! 👊
This is a really helpful piece, well done. I had to replace the hard fuel lines under my WRX manifold and this was so helpful in advising me which bits of the ancillaries went were...Thanks a million
Glad it helped buddy! Cheers!
@@SubaruONLY how would I successfully delete my fuel canister without getting a check engine light? The factory mounting bracket location is rotted and I don’t want it to fall off while driving and potentially become a problem or hazard
Thanks man! Im finally puting my longblock back together after a few months and i needed a refresher on how to button it up before puting it back in. Awesome video! im definetly subscribing!!!!
Rewatching so I can put my fozzy back together 😂. We miss you Luke!!
The video was incredibly well made and super informative. Thanks!
Awesome. Thanks for the kind words!!!!
You should stick something small and metal like a pencil size in that hose so it stays verticle when dropping the manifold on. Great Video Luke!
Good idea. Thanks and cheers!!!
If you take all of your old bolts to a hardware store, you can get correct new ones fairly easily. Sometimes they will even have stainless or chrome if you want to make things more shiny
If you live in colder climates, it's a good idea to replace those rubber fuel lines/hose clamps with higher quality ones! In colder temperatures, those old lines leak fuel on start up.
I wish this was up when I did my engine swap last year but great content and quality 👍
Super helpful. I would have had a hard time figuring this out with the poor pictures that I took XD. Thank you!
Just saved me soooooo much time. thank you.
Hell yea - cheers!!!
Wow I really learned a lot from this video and I can now apply that to my 2016 Subaru Outback. Thanks
Sweet, stoked to hear man!!! Thanks for dropping the note!! 👊
I’ve been able to delete the check valve in the past without causing CELs. Simplifies the hose routing a bit.
Nice!!!
just discovered that i can do this. doing it now while re-assembling an engine. i'll report back if i have any failures. apparently the JDM EJ207 is an identical layout, minus the check valve. it simplifies that whole arrangement significantly.
Man I’m trying to do this on my 2012 2.5i Outback 😔 thank you for making this it helps
Hell yea brother. Glad it helps!!! Cheers and good luck. 👍
Thank you for this, it will help me re install the intake on my impreza wrx
Thank you so much. This helped me a lot with my ej205.
Awesome! Glad it helped 👊
Layne Staley with the glasses great work brother
Man, this channel is a lifesaver! Thank you!
Glad it’s helping - cheers man! 👊
@@SubaruONLY Seriously, so well presented. I felt so daunted and now i got this
Hell yes man! Love it! 👊
BEAUTIFUL walk-through!
Thanks man!!! 👊
Installing phenolic spacers on my 02 2.5 SOHC, I stripped a couple of bolt threads. 18.1 ft.lbs? Yes that's what the Subaru shop manual says. Found one Subaru tech on TH-cam who said they only need about 10 ft.lbs. Eventually re-intalled the spacers with longer bolts than supplied and torqued to 10 ft.lbs.
Thank you so much for such an in depth video
🤙
Where did you get those zinc plated bolts? About to pull my engine and do a full refresh. Thanks
😂😂😂
Thank you very much Luke for the excellent and clear tutorial. I"ve got a 2011 Tturbo Forester and willbe following your upcoming videos with great interest :) first time subscriber :)
You can also use a a bit of innertube aswell for the pipes if split
EXTREMELY helpful, thank you.
Excellent video. Helped me re-assemble my intake mani. Still hoping for some help with finding those bolts.
Thanks. Sorry buddy, meant it look those up. Bought them years ago (all bulk buys are like once every three years), so couldn’t remember where I got them. Look for zinc plated, grade 8 if possible. If can’t find that, just try to find a set that are made somewhere other than China (only cause most raw metal out of that region is not the best quality).
Where did you order the zinc plated bolts from? Thank you in advance and I really enjoy the videos! Look forward to the next one!
I wanna know too😫
Do you have a how to properly install the TGV motors?
sorry, not yet. Will try to keep that in my mind for a future one!
Awesome video man, well done on pace and explanations. Helped me out a bunch
Sweet! 🤙
The amount of times he said sucker in this video got me dead🤣🤣
I know. It was ridiculous. Good for a drinking game tho 😂
I've just got a spec c inlet with the TGV delete cast into the inlet. 👍
Thanks for the videos! They are great. I agree with replacing he rubber hoses on the fuel hard lines but I noticed the hoses were stamped coolant. Shouldn't you use fuel rated hoses? I would hate to have fuel degrade the hoses and cause a leak down the road or clog injectors. Correct me if I'm wrong.
Sorry,my bad, it says EPA compliant on that sucker good to go.
Luke "These Suckers" McGee !
I know. Sometimes, it’s bad! 😬
xPrototype9x “sucker”, “guys” “go ahead” and “actually” every video has a word or phrase that’s overkill. 😂🤙🏻🤙🏻
Whered you get a box of those bolts from? Im rebuilding a shell that came with 0 and have been looking to buy some subaru spec bolts.
Luke did you happen to buy the hard fuel lines new or did you refurb them as well? Getting ready to do this exact project
Ended up using the OEM lines and cleaning them up. Not sure at what HP larger lines are needed.
the intake manifold is full of suckers 🤣 informative videos!! Thanks!!
Tell me about it…. 😂
Hey, what about the heat shields?
That color 👌🏽
The hose routing for the evap should be the same on a 06 wrx?
Great diy vid.. love your content
Great informative video. Was wondering if you know if a STI blobeye 2.5 intake manifold will fit a 2.0 bugeye?
I'm upgrading my 06 WRX STI
Luke, love all your videos, thank you for providing them.
My question, I have a 95 V2 STi RA with a closed lid. I want to paint my intake manifold that wrinkle red, is there anything I need to know about that varies from you EJ25 manifold, say my 5th injector? Cheers!
Thank you for posting this video! I’d imagine the process is very similar for an ‘05 Outback XT ej25 right?
Off topic: Luke, my car’s heater core is busted(inlet hose came clamped). I’m planning on doing a heater core bypass for now. It should be fine running a #4 cylinder cooling mod from the bypass right?
Northern Cali? I’m around the corner!
So to remove the intake manifold from an assembled car, you need to remove the evap and wiring harness and 8 bolts?
So the TGVs need to be installed closed?
Luke Thanks for the videos, appreciate the effort you put into them. I was wondering where you found the zinc plated bolts, most likely Amazon. However how do you know what pitch you need? I know some are 8mm x 1.25 but are the 6 & 10’s the same pitch? What heads are on your 205? Your valve covers are different than mine I have D25 heads that came off of a EJ255, anyway polishing them out looks good not great, but little by little I guess. Thank for your assistance.
The hose that you are bending up at 22:53, what is the hardpipe that it is attached to called? I have a coolant leak and I think it is coming from that hard line but I cant find any info about it.
Where can I source the zinc coated hardware?
That Suckers close now!
I just bought a 2002 impreza wrx sport wagon with the ej205. It had a boost leak so i started pulling all the hoses that were hard, brittle, or that have failed. I had to do my valve cover gaskets as well. Everything is done but im so lost on which of the hoses go where. I think a video on vacuum/heater hose locations would be very useful. I cant find a good one anywhere. Im pausing video to get an idea of what the prepped motor and prepped intake look like with hose locations. Kind of a pain in the butt but i have to do something. Any recommendations on a good source so i can get this thing back to being driveable.
Hey buddy, I feel ya, been there. I don’t have any videos that cover everything. I have one on the intake manifold and all fuel EGR lines. But non covering all the vacuum for the turbo system, HOWEVER, check out this link:
cobbtuning.atlassian.net/wiki/spaces/PRS/pages/615088215/How+Subaru+s+Factory+Boost+Control+System+Works
It’s to a COBB page that covers the Subaru turbo system and all vacuum line. It’s a great resource, and has some great pictures that show all the vacuum lines connected to the correct spots.
Hope this helps, good luck! 👍
How do you recommend cleaning the injectors? And some of the bolts were different lengths when I removed them, I took photos of them all but if I were to replace them all with zinc coated would I need to find the right sizes or would one size fit all of them?
Ultrasonic bath works well for the injectors. For the bolts, just need to make sure they have enough bite left (ie threads, about 30mm is good).
Like I have a question on the driver side of the intake on the bottom there’s a port for a hose do you know what hose goes there or can you tell me what hose goes there?
Why didn't the injectors you install have Pintle caps on the end as I assume they are necessary as on the factory injectors?
I'm a Soobie Newbie; been building old Chevys and Hondas most of my life. I found an '04 Forester XT on craigslist for a good price with the caveat that it doesn't run. Got it towed to my house, now I have to get it running lol. It has a fuel leak beneath the turbo inlet and I need to address that before I can do any troubleshooting as to why it doesn't turn over. I've seen videos where people remove the stock inlet by destroying it but I don't want to do that. So I'm thinking I need to remove the intake manifold in order to get beneath the turbo inlet. So I guess what I'm asking is, whether or not I can remove the intake manifold without messing with the TGVs? It looks like I might be able to remove the manifold with the TGVs attached to it and not have to bother with the gaskets between them. Just trying to get this baby cranking for now and before I do that I just need to replace that tiny section of hose. WHAT HAVE I GOTTEN MYSELF INTO 🤣🤣🤣🤣😎😎
where did you get those bolts at?
I did this to replace my turbo inlet pipe, also removed the turbo, now fully assembled, I drove it about a mile and the check engine light came on and got lots of smoke from the turbo, checked flash codes and gave me code 22 for knock sensor but it didn't even touch that, help!
At around 19:20 you talk about the broken plastic tee fitting. Mine is broken on my '04 Forester XT, but I cannot find a part number for it. And I did look thru Amazon SubaruONLY. Anybody know what it's called by Subaru?
Yes, it’s part of the purge valve for fuel vapors. Think you need this - Part Number: 22310AC241
Link here to confirm: www.subarupartwholesale.com/p/Subaru__WRX/Hose-Vacuum/49231575/22310AC241.html
@@SubaruONLY Thank you!
Great video!
Would you know by any chance how many hours it takes to install a new turbo inlet hose? Technical information I have paid for says 13 hours but that doesn’t seem right to me. I know the manifold needs to be removed to install it but I still never expected to see 13 hours
Should take closer to 3-4 hours. Cheers man!!! 🤙
@@SubaruONLY Okay sweet, cheers bro!
🍻
Would u recommend cutting out the flaps from the TGV valvs in my 06 WRX STI ?
Again, depends on intended use. They help with cold starts and smoother warmups, which is a good thing. But if you’re heading down the path of more HP and aftermarket parts, it’s a good idea to remove them. Either option is a good choice.
Great tutorial!
I believe the evap lines on the "tree" are upside down
I just had my intake manifold removed to replace the turbo inlet and now my air conditioner is blowing hot air do you know if you remove ac refrigerant lines when you remove the intake manifold my are my car works good up until now and I just had it recharged 10 months ago along with high-pressure refrigerant hose and seals
Sorry to hear. No, don’t know.
Where can I buy new bolts like the ones in the video? I'm pulling my ej255 soon and don't wanna reuse old rusty bolts
Find a local fastener supplier, take in a few bolts for them to match up and they will be able to sort you out.
List for the bolt sizes?!
Sorry. Nothing like that on me. Best to use the FSM, all shown on the exploded view diagrams.
I'm doing an upgrade on my 06 wrx. Can the wiring harness & fuel lines from a 06 wrx intake manifold work on a sti intake manifold ?
Yes, I believe so. Cheers and good luck!!! 👍
Hey, how about parallel fuel system?
Is it better to have the preshaped vacuum hoses?
I’m trying to figure this out too
You are THE MAN
Thanks buddy!
You are my savior
😁
Great video luke.
Thank you for this I just subscribed
Thank you! 👊
I dont want to bother u but is there a way i can contact u for help i have a 02 bugeye and my mom bought a 01 forester engine and my dad put the 02 intake manifold on and he said hed help me build it but he isnt helping at all ive looked at diagrams the service manual but i dont know where the vacuum lines go
Hey man, great video, very detailed and clearly explained. Subscribed. Question: What is that piece called at minute 18:50 that comes out of the intake manifold?
not sure. sorry. cheers!
I have 2 sensors on the back and I have no idea where they go plz help
Hahah, need more info bro!
@@SubaruONLY I got it found out the connect to each other 😳
Lol, nice, and been there, glad you figured it out!
@@SubaruONLY I am having trouble figuring out where the crankcase hoses go since im going front mount
Yes, that’s a little tricky setup. Stick with the fundamentals and reroute as needed! Good luck!👍
Will this red intake manifold dose made good impressions to Subaru sti lover so complex to even removed .I can emerging how Japanese engineer design and made from scratch.
YOU WOULDN’T HAPPEN TO HAVE PART NUMBERS FOR THE HOSES THST GO TO THE REAR OF THE INTAKE AND THE REAR THROTTLE BODY 2 black hoses I can’t find anywhere
Does the EVAP system ever see boost? if so, do those connections need clamps?
As I understand, it’s doesn’t. The scavenging of vapors is isolated from the pressure created by the boost pressure. Good question though!!! 👍
pro drive just re-released the 22b rs sti 2.5 as a special edition ! = check out the price tag !
Nice - what’s the price!!!???
@@SubaruONLY 550,000 english pounds = close to a 1 million us $ - have a took some test drives ! prodrive subaru 22b RS - nice videos keep safe and well , from Australia down under.
Thanks buddy. Cheers!!!
Luke would u recommend I replace my stock struts with coilovers ?
This is a BIG one! All depends on the intended use and budget. Good shocks and OEM coils are a pleasure to drive, nothing like the smooth OEM ride. But for serious performance, nothing will compare with a GOOD set of coilovers. Note the caps, lol. For me, cheap coilovers are no where near a good set of shocks and OEM coils. But in med to high range for coilovers, there are a lot of really good options - but once you step up to this level, it’s even more important to make a choice based on intended use! RallyX, Stage Rally, Autocross, High Speed Street use, all slightly different function and design - so choose wisely and talk to the pros at each respective company (they all want to help, so they’ll offer lots of info if you reach out!). Hope this helps, cheers!!!
Where are you ordering all your OEM spec hardware from? No local stores carry any quality metals like that. I've gone to the great lengths of ordering "zinc" plated hardware just to find some pre-rusted, black coated hardware at my doorstep. I think at least 10 other people are asking the same thing, share your wisdom damnit lol
Very Helpful !
Cheers
Glad it helped!!! Cheers!!! 🤙
04' Forester. 2.0L Ej20. 5 spd. Did the rubber fuel line replacement[s]. Stock engine. I have the TGV spacers, but no Butterfly valves, no electronics, etc. The TGV "SPACERS" [I'll call them that] look very factory stock, rough edges and all. No Drill holes, no marks whatsoever where the rod would typically go thru. DID some of these engines come with just the SPACERS and no Butterfly valves? I call this a 3 piece intake, as I can unbolt the SPACERS from the intake. Also, Wiring harness does not have any type of connections anywhere IF these were change out. Any thoughts on this? Do I have a pre-TGV engine? but I have spacers......weird.
Hmmm, yep think you nailed it! Likely they add those spacers to help increase the air velocity to improve the fuel atomization.
Wonder if you can help me out? The pcv connector also have a sensor that needs to be connected so code p1491 won’t pop up. My question is do you know where that cable harness is located ? I installed the a new pcv valve but can’t seem to find that cable any where. Thanks in advance
Amazing block..... spotless
👊
Where h located??
That u for this ❤
Cheers!
I need to change the coolant pipe O ring gasket that pass through the intake bottom, so maybe I will not need to uninstall every intake parts, thats coolant pipe have some leaks 🤔
EXCELLENT!!!!
👍
Good job
How do we remove it?