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Thank you sir... I DID IT!!! No injuries, nothing broke, minimal cussing. This video was hugely helpful! Really appreciate how amateur-accessible your instruction was. Look forward to more of your videos!
Just replaced one, this was a great help. The previous mounting bracket was only held by a couple of drywall screws and not on a stud, so your toggle info was great. A bit tricky lining up the cabinet bolts, not much room for error, used washers to cover nearby holes. Thanks as always!!!
Nice, yeah it is pretty crazy home many microwaves like this are installed incorrectly. I would say 75% of the time when I remove one it is holding on by maybe 1 screw hitting a stud 😬
I'm very happy to see this video as I will also be replacing my Kenmore, which is about the same as what was removed in this video. The new one is likely to be a Whirlpool too. Edit: my son and I did the install today and it went well. We took our time, verified the position of the studs, and double checked all markings were at the correct distances. Using the template my initial markings for bracket screws were a little high. I guess I didn't cut the box at the exact spot on the dotted line they wanted. Not sure how much leeway there is but I'm glad I verified. I wish manufacturers would decide on a single template. The Kenmore actually had a U-shaped bracket so now there are three big and two little holes in my wall not being used and 3 "small" and 1 big hole in the cabinet. I covered them up with stickers so nothing would fall down there.
Great job! Only suggestion I'd make is... plug the microwave in first and confirm that it works before installing anything! 😂 I've learned the hard way with large appliances bought both new and used that this quick test is worth getting the extension cord out for. A bad appliance or bad socket is a huge pain in the ass.
Just wanted to let you know I used your video to help myself install an over range microwave this week. My situation wasn't EXACTLY like yours but having watched your video I felt more confident in tackling the project which turned out successful in the end! My Christmas wish list this year will have several items from your amazon store page on it!
Nice demo with good instructions. I remember when I installed a combo microwave - stove fan at my former house and it was a real adventure. Luckily I did have a helper for the actual lift to install but there were ceramic tiles on the wall so ... carefully drilling the holes, mounting toggle bolts (nothing lined up with studs), finding a single stud that was almost centred and cutting through the mounting bar and the ceramic tile to get a firm and level mount for the bar. Then cutting for the vent in the bottom of the upper cabinet as well as a hole through the exterior wall for the fan and vent installation through a stucco outer wall where the exterior was over 20 feet above ground level was not fun. When it was all finished it looked great (stainless steel hood and convection microwave as well as the matching electric stove below) and was worth the pain and suffering with a minimum of touchup painting on the exterior wall. I've been tempted to do the same thing in this new house but there isn't enough clearance between where it would have to be mounted and the gas stove below. That will have to wait another ten years when my DW will be promoting the idea of a majorly renovated kitchen.
Well done. And, yes, always move the range. I require my apprentices to do so and if the client says 'no', we don't install the OTR Microwave. They're clumsy to install.
I'm impressed you man-handled that microwave on and off the bracket by yourself. Whenever I've tried to do it alone I end up bending the metal tabs and invariably have to ask someone to help.
Done! Thanks again for a great video that gave me confidence to tackle this project! Had a bit of an issue with the paper template for the cabinet but then I made my own out of cardboard as I saw it was pretty easy for you. On to the next project!
When I installed mine I removed a hood fan that was hard wired in. So i passed the wire up threw the wall about 8in and installed an outlet in the cabinet. And my microwave ( a Frigidaire ) has a completely different mounting system. Not harder, just different. It has a large bracket the passes threw the unit and screws in the front top behind the top trim. Yours looked like it would have been much quicker to install. Keep the videos coming and I'll keep watching and learning.
I had to replace a microwave in an older home and both the back wall and cabinet were Swiss cheese. I ended up adding some plywood to both for extra reinforcement and then I filled in the extra holes in the cabinet with wood filler. After that I covered the bottom of the cabinet with a shelf liner to hide the mess.
Great video! One thing that wasn't covered was the electrical work (if it's a new installation rather than a replacement). Obviously, an outlet must be installed inside the cabinet. One extremely common mistake is re-using the existing cable that used to power the range hood. The problem with this is that it's wired to an existing 15-amp lighting circuit, so it will trip the breaker every time the microwave is used if other loads (including lights) are in use on the circuit at the same time. The microwave draws 13 amps. The only way to assure a successful electrical installation is to run a separate 20-amp circuit (12/2 cable) from the main panel directly to the microwave outlet, with no other loads connected to it.
That's a good point. Also it is best to use a single 20 amp receptacle to ensure nothing else gets plugged in to the circuit. I noticed he has a 15A duplex receptacle. That could be a tip that the circuit is not dedicated, although it is also acceptable in the code to have a 15A duplex on a dedicated 20A circuit.
I've installed a couple dozen of these things, but I still appreciated your video. I have always gotten the paper template with a bunch of confusing lines that are supposed to compensate for the offset of the back wall of the cabinet. Let's just say that fender washers are my friend. As I recall, the instructions want you to put the top bolts through blocking that fills between the cabinet bottom and the microwave top. Of course I never do. Did you blow through that step too?
I had to do this once because something caught fire in my microwave, luckily I was able to replace it with the exact same model so I didn't need to drill any new holes and I could just re-use the mounting bracket that was already there!
good video. Since the bottom of the cabinet has a recess, do I need a filler block for each screw so as not to accidentally overtighten the screws and pull the microwave metal up?
You can do that if it worries you. It shouldn't be a problem though if you are careful. First put them in by hand then use a screwdriver, turning only until it feels tight. I don't recommend using a power tool and you don't want to grip the screwdriver and crank it like you're Superman. I also recommend using the washers. Not everyone does.
ty! i am trying to take down a frigidaire. took out the top screws but it dosent come down much. i am thinking that 2 screws behind the top trim go thru to the bracket also.guess i need to try taking them out. thanks again.
I removed an existing over-the-range microwave. The snag I hit was that a previous homeowner had granite countertops and backsplashes installed after the microwave was put in. The backsplash came all the way up to the bottom edge of the microwave -- stupid! When I removed the cabinet bolts, the microwave would not budge as it was wedged between the cabinet & the backsplash. Ended up using an oscillating saw to cut the clips in the mounting bracket. Only then was I able to pull the unit straight out.
I had to replace a Samsung Convection microwave after 6 years. I had to replace the original bracket and new holes for the screws. I got 3 of the support clips into the bracket, but not one on the right side. That one is pushing the one side out about 3/8". I got it up, and holding.
I tried to install mine and the predrilled screw holes in the microwave are too far out to be screwed in the cabinet. What do you do in this instance? Do I seriously need to go buy a new microwave and measure the depth of the screw holes?
Nice, thank you. I am running into a problem with removing from the mounting bracket. It appears that it may have been mounted so high that there isn't enough room to lift the unit up.
whats your opinion on venting vs circulated microwave ranges? i have to either go 45 degrees then angled 90 degrees exausting outside through the wall bc basement apartment also bc gas meter right above other option is recirculating microwave range… what would you recommend in this situation? the stove is gas not sure if that makes a difference if gas or electrical stove as well?
I thinking venting is better but probably hard to justify the extra cost and effort other than your own personal preference. 95% of units in my area just recirculate even on $700,000 homes.
Venting to exterior, always when possible. Don’t think convenient, think possible. Venting to exterior provides YOU with cleaner air in the house. Yes, it matters. Cooking makes interior air quality significantly worse than outdoor air quality and you need healthy lungs to be a healthy person. Then think kids, if you damage their lungs they could have a lifetime of things like asthma working against them. Vent it to the outside and run it every time you cook.
You installed a unit the sits lower due to overall height; that might be against code. There are guidance points to ensure you have your unit at the proper distance from your cooktop, some manufacturers say 30 inches above the cooktop; and code says to follow manufacturer listing. Thats a key metric to consider when buying a new unit. And, in some places there may be a prohibition on how high a microwave can be mounted overall. One bit of guidance says no more than 54 inches above the floor. So, it gets limited in a number of ways. Think about anyone who is under 6 feet tall, like kids. Many times people are pulling very hot food and liquids out at head height. One slip and that person is covered in hot stuff and will get burned. Just think about how sticky and thick some soups are and how much heat will transfer to the body when it hits and sticks. Latest guidance is to install the microwave below the counter level to provide a safer experience for your entire household.
I totally agree with your comments on height placement, too low the unit can melt, and too high, you can get burn if you hot dish slip. My unit was installed too low so the handle got melted when I cook on high too long on stove top. I decided to take microwave off and will install exhaust hood system. I will get a countertop microwave instead.
@@carmenlamanna5391 For me they didn't line up going from a Kenmore/LG to a Whirlpool. I debated on reusing the existing hole because it appears there is just enough room for the cord to go across the microwave top but I thought it might be bad for the cord to have such sharp turns.
I sort of did because I vent through the top and the hole for the vent was large enough considering the vent pattern was different, swiss cheese. I cut vinyl tile to cover the bottom of the cabinet, very thiick vinyl tile. I pushed the extra cord down the vent hole and it rests on top of the microwave. You could do the same with the other mounting types only if you have a space or a gap between the bottom of the cabinet and the microwave.
The instructions for all the ones I’ve installed say something like absolutely requires two persons to install. I actually got someone else to screw the bolts in on the last one I did since for some reason these units feel like they’re getting heavier🤔
Maybe you only have metal studs. If that's the case you'd only be able to use the toggle bolts, but those probably wouldn't be enough to support the weight. Definitely check with the manufacturer.
I found out what it was. So, I have an electrical outlet in the cabinet above. The wires were in some protective metal leading up to the outlet. Thank GOD I didn’t find out the hard way. I paid a Handy man to do the install and he showed me what was going on. 😅
I seriously doubt that the toggle bolts will hold the weight of the microwave oven. I would weigh the microwave first to get an idea on what other kind of attachment will be strong enough to hold it up.
I got quartz backsplash installed where the back of my microwave would have hugged the wall. I would like not to try drilling into the quartz and was wondering if the cabinet alone can provide enough support for the microwave. Can someone please offer some advice?
Tear down the house. Seriously though, do you want the microwave level or in line with the cabinet? If the cabinet is just a little off and you don't want a gap, you could line the bracket up to be the same. But if it's off by more than just a smidge, you should mount the bracket level while making sure the lower side of the cabinet to the bracket is the minimum distance required. You will end up with a gap between the microwave and the cabinet bottom on the other side. You should use a filler block for any top side screws on that side and maybe you'll want to cover up the gap with a strip of wood.
You’re right and appreciate the feedback. I always default to “charcoal” but that specific one is just a wire mesh to trap the grease. Grease trapping capability gets a full workout on some of my rentals 😬
Yes so the maintenance man here installed the microwave in the process he dropped it the amount that goes into the wall that you put the microwave on to secure it was bent so we had to get a tool to bend it back and that is what holds this microwave that is humongous and weighs a lot in the process you broke my stove stop telling the stove and broke the shattered it it's a glass stove now I called him yesterday because of the separation from the screws that go down to the cupboard there was a 3-in gap and the other one was secure came back screwed it in it was nice and now it's starting to separate again is it important that they don't separate the ones that are mounted through the cupboard and then drilling into the microwave
I would not put a microwave over my range. I prefer a hood that has an exhaust fan that goes outside and a light. My micro is on my countertop. Much safer for shorter guests I receive. Reaching overhead to pull a hot meal out of the microwave can't be too safe.
it's possible to vent these outside i had a rental that its OTC microwave indeed vented outside and it had 2 light bulbs underneath, and it had a "night light" setting these are great if you don't have much counter space, or nowhere to practically keep a separate microwave cart 😎👍
![How To Install A Microwave [Over-The-Range Style]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/IYlfldtsYCo/mqdefault.jpg)
![How To Install A Microwave [Over-The-Range Style]](/img/tr.png)
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DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
Thank you sir... I DID IT!!! No injuries, nothing broke, minimal cussing. This video was hugely helpful! Really appreciate how amateur-accessible your instruction was. Look forward to more of your videos!
Lolol, I turned full blown truck driver. I haven't cussed so much in my life.
Fantastic video, thank you for being slow and methodical for those of us that don't do this every day!
Just replaced one, this was a great help. The previous mounting bracket was only held by a couple of drywall screws and not on a stud, so your toggle info was great. A bit tricky lining up the
cabinet bolts, not much room for error, used washers to cover nearby holes. Thanks as always!!!
Nice, yeah it is pretty crazy home many microwaves like this are installed incorrectly. I would say 75% of the time when I remove one it is holding on by maybe 1 screw hitting a stud 😬
Best video on replacing under the cabinet microwave oven hands down. Your tips were great.
I'm very happy to see this video as I will also be replacing my Kenmore, which is about the same as what was removed in this video. The new one is likely to be a Whirlpool too. Edit: my son and I did the install today and it went well. We took our time, verified the position of the studs, and double checked all markings were at the correct distances. Using the template my initial markings for bracket screws were a little high. I guess I didn't cut the box at the exact spot on the dotted line they wanted. Not sure how much leeway there is but I'm glad I verified. I wish manufacturers would decide on a single template. The Kenmore actually had a U-shaped bracket so now there are three big and two little holes in my wall not being used and 3 "small" and 1 big hole in the cabinet. I covered them up with stickers so nothing would fall down there.
THANK YOU! Tomorrows project looks a lot easier!!!
Great job!
Only suggestion I'd make is... plug the microwave in first and confirm that it works before installing anything! 😂
I've learned the hard way with large appliances bought both new and used that this quick test is worth getting the extension cord out for. A bad appliance or bad socket is a huge pain in the ass.
Oh wow. That is a great idea.
Just wanted to let you know I used your video to help myself install an over range microwave this week. My situation wasn't EXACTLY like yours but having watched your video I felt more confident in tackling the project which turned out successful in the end! My Christmas wish list this year will have several items from your amazon store page on it!
Clean work. My first install was overwhelming. You make it look so easy. As you said to double check all measurements. Well done 👍
For sure, it’s all in the setup. If you have everything set correctly the actual lift into place is no big deal 👍
Nice demo with good instructions. I remember when I installed a combo microwave - stove fan at my former house and it was a real adventure. Luckily I did have a helper for the actual lift to install but there were ceramic tiles on the wall so ... carefully drilling the holes, mounting toggle bolts (nothing lined up with studs), finding a single stud that was almost centred and cutting through the mounting bar and the ceramic tile to get a firm and level mount for the bar. Then cutting for the vent in the bottom of the upper cabinet as well as a hole through the exterior wall for the fan and vent installation through a stucco outer wall where the exterior was over 20 feet above ground level was not fun. When it was all finished it looked great (stainless steel hood and convection microwave as well as the matching electric stove below) and was worth the pain and suffering with a minimum of touchup painting on the exterior wall. I've been tempted to do the same thing in this new house but there isn't enough clearance between where it would have to be mounted and the gas stove below. That will have to wait another ten years when my DW will be promoting the idea of a majorly renovated kitchen.
Thanks, you covered all the steps I needed!
Well done. And, yes, always move the range. I require my apprentices to do so and if the client says 'no', we don't install the OTR Microwave.
They're clumsy to install.
I'm impressed you man-handled that microwave on and off the bracket by yourself. Whenever I've tried to do it alone I end up bending the metal tabs and invariably have to ask someone to help.
If everything is set correctly it usually isn’t too bad but also smart to call in an extra set of hands if possible.
Excellent video, Sir. Very clear and exact plan!
Millions thanks I needed this
Hope you install goes well.
Done! Thanks again for a great video that gave me confidence to tackle this project! Had a bit of an issue with the paper template for the cabinet but then I made my own out of cardboard as I saw it was pretty easy for you. On to the next project!
When I installed mine I removed a hood fan that was hard wired in. So i passed the wire up threw the wall about 8in and installed an outlet in the cabinet. And my microwave ( a Frigidaire ) has a completely different mounting system. Not harder, just different. It has a large bracket the passes threw the unit and screws in the front top behind the top trim. Yours looked like it would have been much quicker to install. Keep the videos coming and I'll keep watching and learning.
Is that the only outlet on the circuit?
Charming chap. Excellent and good idea to move range out of the way. Subscribed. :)
Thank you. Excellent presentation.
GOOD ADVICE SCOTT 🤗👍😍😍😍
Thanks!
Thank you for your informative video & all the other DIY projects
Great as always. Thank you.
If you have a 3ft bar clamp, it makes removal 10x easier. Clamp the microwave to the cabinet, remove screws, then support microwave and undo clamp.
Excellent idea! Thanks for the tip.
very useful information Scott
Thank you very much. I'm not able to move my range since the kitchen is very small. However the video was really great.
Thanks!
very helpful going to do this in a couple of months, perfect timing
Best of luck on your project 👍
Love your videos, keep up the great work.
That was interesting as I have never seen how microwaves were installed. Thanks.
Thanks, I think most people are a bit intimidated but it isn’t too bad if you take your time. 👍
Excellent video! Thank you so much for your clear and concise instructions.
Very Helpful. THX!
Great information. Please show how to install exhaust hood.
Thanks for the suggestion, appreciate the feedback.
I had to replace a microwave in an older home and both the back wall and cabinet were Swiss cheese. I ended up adding some plywood to both for extra reinforcement and then I filled in the extra holes in the cabinet with wood filler. After that I covered the bottom of the cabinet with a shelf liner to hide the mess.
Sounds like the best you could do with the circumstances.
Great video! One thing that wasn't covered was the electrical work (if it's a new installation rather than a replacement). Obviously, an outlet must be installed inside the cabinet. One extremely common mistake is re-using the existing cable that used to power the range hood. The problem with this is that it's wired to an existing 15-amp lighting circuit, so it will trip the breaker every time the microwave is used if other loads (including lights) are in use on the circuit at the same time. The microwave draws 13 amps. The only way to assure a successful electrical installation is to run a separate 20-amp circuit (12/2 cable) from the main panel directly to the microwave outlet, with no other loads connected to it.
That's a good point. Also it is best to use a single 20 amp receptacle to ensure nothing else gets plugged in to the circuit. I noticed he has a 15A duplex receptacle. That could be a tip that the circuit is not dedicated, although it is also acceptable in the code to have a 15A duplex on a dedicated 20A circuit.
On convertible units you may have to flip the exhaust fan to recirculate back in the room.
Good callout Sam 👍
I've installed a couple dozen of these things, but I still appreciated your video. I have always gotten the paper template with a bunch of confusing lines that are supposed to compensate for the offset of the back wall of the cabinet. Let's just say that fender washers are my friend.
As I recall, the instructions want you to put the top bolts through blocking that fills between the cabinet bottom and the microwave top. Of course I never do. Did you blow through that step too?
I had to do this once because something caught fire in my microwave, luckily I was able to replace it with the exact same model so I didn't need to drill any new holes and I could just re-use the mounting bracket that was already there!
good video. Since the bottom of the cabinet has a recess, do I need a filler block for each screw so as not to accidentally overtighten the screws and pull the microwave metal up?
You can do that if it worries you. It shouldn't be a problem though if you are careful. First put them in by hand then use a screwdriver, turning only until it feels tight. I don't recommend using a power tool and you don't want to grip the screwdriver and crank it like you're Superman. I also recommend using the washers. Not everyone does.
What if you buy the same brand. Maybe the bracket can be reused?
Maybe keep the range, get strong boxes or a car jack to stay in place while screwing in the bolts.
Very Informative !!
Thanks, and well done.
Great job
the fender washer was a great tip
ty! i am trying to take down a frigidaire. took out the top screws but it dosent come down much. i am thinking that 2 screws behind the top trim go thru to the bracket also.guess i need to try taking them out. thanks again.
I removed an existing over-the-range microwave. The snag I hit was that a previous homeowner had granite countertops and backsplashes installed after the microwave was put in. The backsplash came all the way up to the bottom edge of the microwave -- stupid! When I removed the cabinet bolts, the microwave would not budge as it was wedged between the cabinet & the backsplash. Ended up using an oscillating saw to cut the clips in the mounting bracket. Only then was I able to pull the unit straight out.
Excellent
That was very helpful thanks 👍
I had to replace a Samsung Convection microwave after 6 years. I had to replace the original bracket and new holes for the screws. I got 3 of the support clips into the bracket, but not one on the right side. That one is pushing the one side out about 3/8". I got it up, and holding.
Thank you!!,
Thank you. It's good to know how to do that.
You bet!
Do you not need to use wood putty to fill the old microwave's holes to assure the integrity of thr mounting bracket?
I tried to install mine and the predrilled screw holes in the microwave are too far out to be screwed in the cabinet. What do you do in this instance? Do I seriously need to go buy a new microwave and measure the depth of the screw holes?
There was a microwave over the range before this one. So I was surprised this was a prpblem
Nice, thank you. I am running into a problem with removing from the mounting bracket. It appears that it may have been mounted so high that there isn't enough room to lift the unit up.
Try to tilt the top out towards you as much as you can before lifting it off.
whats your opinion on venting vs circulated microwave ranges? i have to either go 45 degrees then angled 90 degrees exausting outside through the wall bc basement apartment also bc gas meter right above other option is recirculating microwave range… what would you recommend in this situation? the stove is gas not sure if that makes a difference if gas or electrical stove as well?
I thinking venting is better but probably hard to justify the extra cost and effort other than your own personal preference. 95% of units in my area just recirculate even on $700,000 homes.
Venting is much better way to go
@@dido1803 even with bends on the duct work? thats the reason why im on the fence…
@@EverydayHomeRepairs 95 percent thats crazy i guess different areas have different standards, but regardless it seems like both options are okay 👍
Venting to exterior, always when possible. Don’t think convenient, think possible. Venting to exterior provides YOU with cleaner air in the house. Yes, it matters. Cooking makes interior air quality significantly worse than outdoor air quality and you need healthy lungs to be a healthy person. Then think kids, if you damage their lungs they could have a lifetime of things like asthma working against them. Vent it to the outside and run it every time you cook.
Thanks, now I know how to replace one.
You’re welcome.
You installed a unit the sits lower due to overall height; that might be against code. There are guidance points to ensure you have your unit at the proper distance from your cooktop, some manufacturers say 30 inches above the cooktop; and code says to follow manufacturer listing. Thats a key metric to consider when buying a new unit. And, in some places there may be a prohibition on how high a microwave can be mounted overall. One bit of guidance says no more than 54 inches above the floor. So, it gets limited in a number of ways. Think about anyone who is under 6 feet tall, like kids. Many times people are pulling very hot food and liquids out at head height. One slip and that person is covered in hot stuff and will get burned. Just think about how sticky and thick some soups are and how much heat will transfer to the body when it hits and sticks. Latest guidance is to install the microwave below the counter level to provide a safer experience for your entire household.
I totally agree with your comments on height placement, too low the unit can melt, and too high, you can get burn if you hot dish slip. My unit was installed too low so the handle got melted when I cook on high too long on stove top. I decided to take microwave off and will install exhaust hood system. I will get a countertop microwave instead.
This happened to me. Contractor would not install a microwave over my stove due to the 30 inch minimum.
Agree 100%. Also, I dislike OTRs because the exhausts on them just can't compete with a range hood that only has 1 job :)
I know this is old but I'm curious if you could tell me why my microwave is dipping slightly in the center on the top after installation.
Could you do a video on how to install a vent to the outside for the microwave?
Setting vents is a big part and moving the fan to accommodate upper or back or no vent.
Yeah, I am a bit skewed since in my area so few are vented. Is venting common in your area? Would you say 50% of homes? Ours is about 5% or maybe 10%.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs new construction in Seattle area 85% vented. Reno 60 %
Toronto 60 and 30
I'd love to see how to vent my existing (or replacement) one outside that's mounted on an exterior wall but currently recirculating.
Thanks!
Height do you properly mesure the height for the new macro wave ?
This may be a dumb question. Why can't you use existing hole for the plug? Great video. Love the channel.
because the cord was in a different location on the microwave
@@drewk75 Ok thanks. Just wondered cause I swapped out a whirlpool and put in a Samsung and used same hole. Must have got lucky
@@carmenlamanna5391 For me they didn't line up going from a Kenmore/LG to a Whirlpool. I debated on reusing the existing hole because it appears there is just enough room for the cord to go across the microwave top but I thought it might be bad for the cord to have such sharp turns.
I sort of did because I vent through the top and the hole for the vent was large enough considering the vent pattern was different, swiss cheese. I cut vinyl tile to cover the bottom of the cabinet, very thiick vinyl tile. I pushed the extra cord down the vent hole and it rests on top of the microwave. You could do the same with the other mounting types only if you have a space or a gap between the bottom of the cabinet and the microwave.
What brand of microwave should I looked into for this project ? I noticed my old microwave does not have any holes where you can actually mount it.
y not doing a Vent Out window ❓❓❓ - 4 this type of microwave...
great work by the Way>>>
How do you change the fuse?
How to remove the vented microwave. I tried to take out my microwave but the duct work didn't allow me to remove it.
The instructions for all the ones I’ve installed say something like absolutely requires two persons to install. I actually got someone else to screw the bolts in on the last one I did since for some reason these units feel like they’re getting heavier🤔
Hey, seems like there is metal behind the drywall. When I found the stud, I was drilling into metal. What is that?
Could be a plate that protects the wiring behind it so you don't drill into it.
Maybe you only have metal studs. If that's the case you'd only be able to use the toggle bolts, but those probably wouldn't be enough to support the weight. Definitely check with the manufacturer.
I found out what it was. So, I have an electrical outlet in the cabinet above. The wires were in some protective metal leading up to the outlet. Thank GOD I didn’t find out the hard way. I paid a Handy man to do the install and he showed me what was going on. 😅
@@s.j.5850 that’s exactly what it was
what if there are no studs behind the wall as in condos, can i just use toggle bolts?
I seriously doubt that the toggle bolts will hold the weight of the microwave oven. I would weigh the microwave first to get an idea on what other kind of attachment will be strong enough to hold it up.
I got quartz backsplash installed where the back of my microwave would have hugged the wall. I would like not to try drilling into the quartz and was wondering if the cabinet alone can provide enough support for the microwave. Can someone please offer some advice?
No, the cabinet will not support the weight. The wall bracket is made to support the weight of the appliance since it is attached to the wall studs.
If installing the back bracket level, what if the cabinet is not level?
Tear down the house. Seriously though, do you want the microwave level or in line with the cabinet? If the cabinet is just a little off and you don't want a gap, you could line the bracket up to be the same. But if it's off by more than just a smidge, you should mount the bracket level while making sure the lower side of the cabinet to the bracket is the minimum distance required. You will end up with a gap between the microwave and the cabinet bottom on the other side. You should use a filler block for any top side screws on that side and maybe you'll want to cover up the gap with a strip of wood.
Thoses filters are not charcoal. They can be washed and reused.
You’re right and appreciate the feedback. I always default to “charcoal” but that specific one is just a wire mesh to trap the grease. Grease trapping capability gets a full workout on some of my rentals 😬
I have both, and aluminum and a charcoal. Don’t use the charcoal filter because I vent tothe outside.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs❤
There was no need to drill another hole for the power cord. The cabinet bottom is recessed.
wow i thought there was more to it than that
Nice change of pace when things are easier than expected 👍
Yes so the maintenance man here installed the microwave in the process he dropped it the amount that goes into the wall that you put the microwave on to secure it was bent so we had to get a tool to bend it back and that is what holds this microwave that is humongous and weighs a lot in the process you broke my stove stop telling the stove and broke the shattered it it's a glass stove now I called him yesterday because of the separation from the screws that go down to the cupboard there was a 3-in gap and the other one was secure came back screwed it in it was nice and now it's starting to separate again is it important that they don't separate the ones that are mounted through the cupboard and then drilling into the microwave
Mine wont tilt...still stuck to the damn wall and no videos tell why????
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I would not put a microwave over my range. I prefer a hood that has an exhaust fan that goes outside and a light. My micro is on my countertop. Much safer for shorter guests I receive. Reaching overhead to pull a hot meal out of the microwave can't be too safe.
it's possible to vent these outside
i had a rental that its OTC microwave indeed vented outside
and it had 2 light bulbs underneath, and it had a "night light" setting
these are great if you don't have much counter space, or nowhere to practically keep a separate microwave cart 😎👍
mine is GE= no bolts= need size
2:01
Can u come install my microwave cuz it's hard to find a professional like urself😊
The cook range at the bottom magically disappeared and reappeared. Lol
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Just let the little hair you have left go...you'll look nice
Maybe he doesn't wanna shave his head every couple of days. Mind your own damn business🤣
@@voltaire7545 oh... like how you're minding your own business now in my comment? 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 maybe take your own advice
Like your video. 👍👍👍
THANKS.
How do you change the fuse?
I'm sure youtube will come up with something if you search how to change the fuse in a microwave