Never buy a TOYOTA with these issues according to the 20+ years of CAR WIZARD mechanic experience!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ก.ย. 2024
- If you're looking at buying a Toyota (or really any other car) you've got to see this video. After working on cars for over 20 years the CAR WIZARD 🧙♂️ has found 5 issues on TOYOTA's that you NEVER, EVER buy a car with!
🔮🔧 AMAZON AFFILIATE STORE: www.amazon.com... 🔧🔮
🇬🇧🇬🇧 UK AMAZON STORE: www.amazon.co.... 🇬🇧🇬🇧
🧰 BENDPAK LIFTS: www.bendpak.com 🧰
👕 CAR WIZARD MERCH: teespring.com/... 👕
📷 INSTAGRAM @realcarwizard 📷
🎸 MUSIC BY CLAYTON CAGLE: / claytoncalifornia 🎸
One small thing. When you turn the ignition, or press the push to start quickly you should see all the dash lights turn on, including the check engine light. If it didn't turn on at the start it has been tampered with.
Either tampered with or on so long the bulb burned out 😂. Not good either way. I came here to say this, but you posted first so you got a like instead!
That's a good call. Thanks
Not always could be the pcm is not communicating
Oh-thanks!
2006 Toyota avalon. Worst car I ever had. Problems that couldn't be fixed or found. Various electrical battery. Alternator fuse box problems. Non stop. A curse. Lost. Thousands trying to fix. Financed for four years. Plus trying to keep it going. Big time loss
The force is strong in this one.
Never ever have I heard ‘toy Joda’ referenced so much in a single video.
😊
Scotty Kilmer is Revving up his engine cause you’re dissing Toyotas.
Yeah! Uuu…Scotty is going to be mad once he hears about the criticisms of Toyota vehicles.
😂
Scotty calls out toyota when they mess up, such as the recent turbocharged toyota v6. In a lot of his recent videos, he has said their quality is slipping.
I don't think Scotty Kilmer uses the heated steering wheel feature
I would add do some hard braking to see how brakes react under load, AND to see if the seat belt tensioners work. Hard brakes will also reveal defective engine mounts.
If you really want to get into Toyota issues
3.0 V6 3vzfe - prone to failure but still generally reliable
Any older Toyota engine with a timing chain - be aware of when it was last changed as like all 80's vehicles they tend to eat the timing cover
Timing belts - generally reliable if changed at the correct intervals
Valves and rocker arms are typically noisy on Toyotas even the new ones but if you hear anything other than that you have an issue
Newer Toyotas all have similar issues
Tacoma/4runner/fj cruiser - leaf springs walk u bolts off, the transmission input shaft gets destroyed by the throw out bearing if it's still stock.
This is only stuff that I've dealt with I'm sure there's a lot more to look out for
Older Toyotas have rust issues however most on the road should have been repaired.
Kind of ironic, other than burning a bit of oil, my 09 Vibe GT's cruise control failed a month after getting it. Great otherwise, going on 209k.
Thanks wizard, I luv the buyers guide!!!
Hi Mr. Wizard, you mentioned these 4 Runner can last a long time. Can you share what additional preventative maintenance needed after 200k or 300k miles? For example, O2 sensor, fuel filter and etc
Jerry. 200-300k . Make sure youve done timing belts. If dgoing the timing belt you should take care of waterpump and alternators if old since theyre coming off. If transmission fluid has been changed regularly before. Do a fluid exchange, if tranmission fluid has never been done before DO NOT TOUCH IT just make sure you have enough
@@batboy-xf3ki that's perfect advise, couldn't have said it better...
@26:40 I had an FJ, I suggest seriously considering PPF or some kind of protection on the A pillars. I had one in red and it looks like it was sandblasted after a few years of highway use.
Check for a leaking rack and pinion on anything Toyota or Lexus from 2001-2006
(@28:04) Floor mats are also missing from rentals too. I noticed. All of them.
With doubling of oil changes, and having a mechanic of his own shop, with several cars of ours to be serviced by - and that mechanic doing the local taxi fleet - and not letting anything major fester - and doing highway kms, mostly - and being locally made and developed for Australia, our x2 Toyota Camrys/Holden Apollos - 92 narrow and 95 wide-body, achieved 700,000 and 600,000 kms, respectfully. Newer models auto trans was/felt as good as new. Also engine was smooth, quiet, revvy, refined, 4cyl 2.2, torquey, 800 km range on highway trip in Aussie heat and still rode, steered and handled well. Would not buy the non-Australian built Camrys today. Still had okay fuel consumption. Small oil leak, to do with valve stem seals, after occuring from not replacing the exhaust manifold stud?, that was about the only thing that was a common fault on this model. But despite that, and trying to find one, the oil didn't need to be topped up between changes. Burning it off on start up and fine afterwards.
One of the few 4 cyl engines that if the timing belt broke, wouldn't damage the valves/pistons. Timing belt and kit always replaced before due. Radiator system as new. Never overheated. Never went above normal. Version that read meter when turned off. Along with the Falcon 6, the most reliable, long lived second hand car you could buy.
Good advise. I bought a 2008 Toyota Solara Convertible and it had a couple of cracks in the dash that I didn't even notice. I was able to buy a Cover Lay to cover it, but it was damage that I missed before buying. Also, the dealer stuck a small Jeep battery in the car that I had to immediately replace. Who would think that they would stick a too small battery in the car?
I think the administrative work should be done first before wasting time checking the car mechanically.
As side note I think someone revved up their engine to remind us that Scotty Kilmer is present in this video by spirit 😂😂😂😂😂😂
2012-14 Camry 4cyl had torque converter shudder.
#2. its called De-badging
Wizard didn't mention any specific Toyota to avoid buying. These points apply to all used cars if you're shopping for one.
But the Car Care Nut did. He said avoid 98-02 Toyota Corollas, 07-09 Camrys with the 2AZ-FE, 06-08 RAV4s with the 2AZ-FE, and the 2016 Tacomas to name a few. The only exception for a 2AZ-FE is that it has to have documentation that the engine has been rebuilt with upgraded OEM Toyota pistons and pistons oil squirters or replaced with a OEM Toyota short block. After replacement, use 5w30 instead of 5w20.
@@atx-cvpi_99 2016 Tacoma makes sense. First year of the current gen Tacoma with all the bugs that haven't been worked out yet.
@@atx-cvpi_99 Agreed 💯
@@atx-cvpi_99 first year of any new make or model, esp with a new engine model - you always have to watch out for.
@@mikenormandy9250 Some launches were successful while others were not.
The biggest issue with Toyota's are the previous owners.
A lot of owners think "It's a Toyota, I can change the oil when ever I feel like it" or "Its a Toyota it's so good that it doesn't need any maintenance done to it at all". There are a few Toyota engines that if you don't change the oil every 5k by the time it hits 100k miles it starts burning 1qt every 1000 miles and will need an engine rebuild.
That's half right. Deferred maintenance harm all vehicles but it seems like Toyota handle them a lot better. Imagine deferring maintenance on a BMW or Mercedes, those would be a basket case in 5 years tops.
Most newer Toyotas hybrids recommend oil changes every 10k miles. I have 2012 Prius C with 320,000 miles and have always followed that. Their 5k maintenance light is not oil changes. They want you to come in for tire rotations every 5k. But nothing wrong with doing it more often either way
Same with Subaru, they're more maintenence sensitive than Toyotas with the boxer engine and many people ignore them and them blame the car.
And THAT is why I stay away from cheap civics/corollas etc
"Has 300,000km on it and burns 1L of oil every 1500km but will last forever" no, not really . It's gonna need all kinds of work to push further than that because of your severe neglect. Just because it's a Honda, Toyota etc. Doesn't mean it doesn't need maintenance. Lol
Agree. Been used car shopping and mofos dont maintain their cars and still want a high amount bc its a toyota or lexus and "they last forever" *with maintenance.
Also, when you turn the key to the first position (ignition on) make sure the warning lights all light up, especially the check engine light. If it doesn't light then it doesn't work-someone has disabled it because the engine is throwing codes...which brings me to another suggestion. Bring a code reader and know how to use it.
Good 👉 point
How do you disable the check engine light without disabling the cars ECU ?
@@rolandthethompsongunner64 put tape over it after opening the cluster. Crooked dealers do it all the time.
@@adotintheshark4848 So you wouldn’t notice the tape?
@@rolandthethompsongunner64 no, because the tape is applied behind the applique..they take the cluster apart first which is easy to do, in case you have to change bulbs/lamps. I used to repair these, it's amazing the shit some dealers(used car usually) will do to the cluster. I've even seen silicone slathered all over the warning lamps.
1. frame rust
2. timing belt
3. lower ball joints
Stripped out head bolts, a huge job and requires a skilled mechanic to perform.
If the frame rusted away, the body is rotten too. Same with fuel lines, brake lines, ect. First gen Tundras too, not just tacoma
@Jimmy Two Times because Toyotas are regular cars too and they blow head gaskets too. Toyotas aren't more or less bulletproof than other brands except for GM and ford ecobooms
@@enjoyingend1939 I don't see many other cars or trucks with the mileage that tacomas, ls400, camry etc have been able to rack up. Many of them are pushing 300, 400, 500k miles. I've never seen a frontier or ram with that much mileage.
that’s any car tbh
What's funny is the original 2GR engines had a metal filter housing and then they switched to plastic and then switched back to metal once they realized that plastic is plastic
The rest of the auto industry charged forward, pretending plastic wasn't plastic.
@@theundergroundlairofthesqu9261 its not plastic it’s “reinforced polymer” 😂
@@bilboswaggens2975 Yep I’ve heard that one before 🤣
This is how they keep busy.
I'll make them walk home if they don't shut their ass up LOL
I would add one more thing to check under Tip# 4. Take a scan tool with you. There may not be any "lights" on, but it could be because the codes were recently erased. A descent scan tool will tell you which systems have not yet completed their drive cycle. I always ask if they mind if I connect my scan tool before I do so. If they tell me no, then it is on to the next car.
If the buyer was a trained mechanic equipped with a name brand scan tool (e.g. Snap-on) then i would have no reservations of allowing it to be connected to the vehicle. However, 'average non-vehicle trained Joe or Sue' with a generic scan tool - the answer would be NO.
@@georgebettiol8338 A simple, non bi-directional code reader is just that. It is a reader. It is capable of erasing codes, but it cannot change much of anything else. I, personally, have the XTool D8 and it is bi-directional. I would consider that tool, in the wrong hands, potentially more dangerous than a simple code reader. I also have an Innova 3160G that greatly lacks the features of the XTool D8 and I use the Innova when taking a cursory look at the state of the vehicle. I have yet to have anyone to tell me "no" when I am using that scan tool to check the status of the vehicle.
@@georgebettiol8338 my 20$ scanner does the same thing I need it to do in half the time ,
@@georgebettiol8338 why?
@@georgebettiol8338I would lol in your face call you a clown and drive off giving you the finger
I try hard not to brand bash because I do know they have all had their good designs and bad designs. The difference I have found in Toyota is way better. I have had less problems with my Toyotas and I have seen Toyota stand behind their products when an issue does happen which is few. Toyota took care of the owners of the Tacoma trucks that had rusting frame issues. They extended warranties and replaced the frames. Not just that, but they learned the cause and fixed it. Same with the Toyota Camries that had the oil consumption issues due to Toyota trying out a new ring design supposed to be better, but had a flaw that caused them to freeze up causing oil consumption. They replaced the rings for free and extended the warranties on those models. I rarely see Ford or GM do this and that is why I stopped buying their stuff. If GM would acknowledge a design problem and stand behind it for their customers then I might still buy from them. They and Ford have had a lot of early engine failures that have been identified as design flaws yet they do nothing for the customer. I am 100% loyal to Toyota because they earned that loyalty by their actions.
In my experiece when checking over a used car , the most important point is to take another
person with you that knows what to look for, hopefully they will find the major issues
that you will miss when your mind is elsewhere.
I have helped a lot of my friends over the years and almost everytime they are looking for small
scratches and miss the important parts such as a full service history, but when you check the oil
it is like treacle and only just on the tip of the dipstick.
Toyota's are like any car, they need regular servicing for them to last, a neglected car is no good
to anyone.
Yes, first point is key. A lot of Lexus + Toyota products have dash/leather issues. If you see one you're trying to buy and has had a previous recall, it's worth asking if the owner has the papers/proofs it was done!
To add to this, there are online search engines where you can type in the VIN and find out if the car has any outstanding recalls.
This is only during a specific period. Apparently some dash material manufacturers were using a bad batch of ?rubber? Leads to a lot of sticky dash issues, had that issue with my IS-F(Lexus replaced the dash for free) and my friend has that issue with her BMW. He's right to look out for it, it's was like 2k to replace the dash if I paid to have it replaced out of pocket.
Better than some American turd like a Chrysler or countless other examples that break down constantly and have much bigger issues (ie electrical, drivetrain). Always shake my head at the morons that drive those cars. I refuse to work on them in fact. Liability city. No thanks!
Yep. My 07 ES the dash completely melts. Tried sticky dash kit which is used across multiple manufacturerswith the issues of melting but isn't lasting. Needs a replace or dash cover. Not the only plastic or rubbers suffering. The steering wheel buttons rubber melting, trunk button on the trunk door completely melts in heat and hardens to a rock where you cant push it in the cold.
@@The2Coolest2 True but atleast it’s not a domestic hunk of junk that has major components failing left & right. I’ll take a melted dash over melted lifters lol
Other tips: 1. Always do a cold start.
2. If it looks a little off in the pictures it will look worse in person. 3. Take a magnet to look for bondo on the body. 4. Sign of a responsible owner is having all original keys with the original spare and the handbook. Always look at the carfax for regular oil changes.
Not all shops report to Carfax. Also, if someone does their own oil changes, they won't show either. But it's always a plus when they are listed!
😊
😊
😊
those are pretty good tips. I figured bondo would be less of an issue, mostly because if its a shoddy sh*t job, youll see it in the panel and the paint. but i mean magnet for bondo check is pretty solid didnt even think of it
The 1990-2006 Lexus LS400 and LS430 have interference engine timing belts. If you’re looking at those cars, make sure the timing belt job was recently done as it’s over $1000 to have it done at a shop.
The non VVTi engines are not interference engines. The VVTi engines are interference including the 3MZ, 2JZ, 3UZ, 2UZ, and 1UZ.
90-94 was a non interference engine. That came a few years after that model came out
I thought it was either 98 and later or 95 and later, although I've heard differing answers.
@@atx-cvpi_99 The 3MZ is listed as interference however it isn't.
The 1989-1995 is non interference engine.
I've owned toyotas my whole life. From my experience, the 4-cylinder engines tend to burn oil after 200k miles. I've heard they have supposedly fixed this in newer engines (but with mixed success) but I've had the problem in more than one carollo and camry. Granted, other manufacturers would consider 200k miles a success, but I hold Toyotas to a hire standard. I only buy v6's or 8's now and I've never had a single problem with them. I've also NEVER had AC problems or transmission problems in a Toyota. For whatever reason, Toyota mastered those systems like no other car company.
03 corolla, 258k, no oil burning or its so miniscule its not noticeable on the dip stick.
Lots of oil changes its whole life.
Almost all engines wear out their valve guides and seals by 200k. You’re asking a lot…
@aarong.1075 what I saying and buy thsn if you do proper maintenance you will be fine my Honda lasted 376,591 before. Sold it and it still drives
212k miles on a 1zz-fe and no oil consumption, no leaks period, except a very small leak before of the gearbox and was just $20 axle shaft seals.
2010 Prius burns oil like a two stroke. Started around 100k and is an know problem, so no excuses of poor maintenance.
Thank you for keeping this lists series alive. My favorite thing is just hearing car wizard sit down and talk.
Watch out for 4WD Toyota Matrix as rear diff goes bad by 100K and there are no replacement parts available.
The rear subframe is also an issue on the AWD Matrix and it's twin, the AWD Pontiac Vibe
Remove driveshaft.
Fixed.
@@jasonw7497 then 100 percent power is applied to the front end all the time......
@@byloyuripka9624 Like all FWD vehicles LOL
@@yukonstriker1703 seems like a good way to snap axles and pop diffs 🤷🏻♀️
Hey Wizard, should check AMD's work on Toyota's on his channel The Car Care Nut, he explains there faults, what a failing VVTi system sounds like and how to look after the system.
That’s exactly what I did on the 2010 Corolla I just bought. I actually listened to his video on the 2009-2013 Corolla, took notes, and combined that knowledge with the Car Wizard’s tips to score a pretty decent car. The paint is a bit iffy on the top, that’s the sun here for you, but I knew to get it for a cold start to check VVT-i, where to look for damages, how to tell of something’s been fiddled with, and lots of great tips.
The last thing I care about when buying a car is Floor Mats 🤣😂I start with the engine, then drivetrain, suspension...lastly interior
How do you inspect the drivetrain?
@@saucemasterx911 Ummmm by driving it??? 👀
One thing that I believe was not mentioned by Car Wizard is to do a hard emergency stop on a quiet road as part of the test drive. Preferably somewhere downhill. I had one Highlander which turned on the check engine light after doing this. Guess what, I was not interested anymore in buying.
Good advise. Learned a few things :-)
Two patterns I’ve been noticing for the last, say, ten-twelve years: 1. Some Japanese car manufacturers starting to get lax in their quality control. 2. KIA and Hyundai are tightening their quality control. Only time will tell if I’m right or wrong .
You are correct. I didn’t think we’d ever see the day where those two brands even had a shot at coming for Toyota or honda
LOL, KIA Hynundai are terrible. Not even to mention the theft and insurance cost. Parts are crazy expensive for a cheap car too. ANd they do not honor the factory warranty ever
Stay away from Kia and Hyundai. My cousin's 2022 Kia Forte just had to have a transmission rebuilt at 80,000 miles. For a car that spends a lot of time on the freeway this shouldn't have happened.
nope, Hyundai/Kia are oil burning turds. Honda def isn't what they used to be. Toyota is still pretty damned good, though.
@@bend8353 lots of oil consumption issues, too
when the Car Wizard posts about Toyotas and 4Runners I click immediately
This is a stupid worthless video. Dude, thinks everything should work on a used car.
me too man me too
Are 4Runners not a Toyota? 🤔
@@xXFireHawkXxHD 6666 😅is a good good place to 4😅
I am a simple man...when I see an old 4Runner, I click on it!
I've had many toyotas and the bad thing is that they are so boring..... because they never break 😂😂😂😂 but you can use that money to personalize your good toyota ❤
Yeah I has Hondas before and I used to like them better than toyota now it's opposite I'd rather have a toyota they are underrated and not modified as much as Hondas it feels good when you have a car that's not modified as much a you customize your own toyota
They do break but its usually small stuff then again I have a well maintained high mileage Jaguar thats also rarely broken so either I'm extremely lucky or maintaining a car right will make anything other than a Kia last
I just stopped by your shop and purchased a kids shirt. Everyone had a great attitude and big smiles all around.
I don’t like buying used Toyotas 80% of them when people decide to sell them they are ready for a junkyard too many miles a too much stuff completely neglected over the years. I really had absolutely bad experience buying used Toyotas. Only time I could say it does worth is when the car have low miles and do belong to an older person beyond that forget it .
Was looking at a used Toyota Avalon 78k miles, it ran nice but was showing wear on the steering wheel, and the body had imperfections, you can tell rear bumper was replaced and painted, and passenger rear door had waves. I was kinda pointing them out, and the dealer says "well it's a used car, it's not going to be mint" I looked at him and said " well your asking mint price, so was expecting a mint car". Obviously walked away.
I drive a 2001 Camry 2.2 LE with 104,000 miles. It got a new timing belt and full service today and I call it my forever car ❤😅
That motor is indestructible with basic maintenance.
Got over 300,000 on my '01 Camry with the 5SFE engine. Change the oil and filter every 5K miles using full synth, drain/refill the trans fluid every 30K, drain/refill the radiator every 3 years using distilled water and you'll be good. I suck the brake fluid and power steering fluid out with a turkey baster every 2 years and replenish. Something to keep in mind, the differential is independent from the transmission so you have to drain and refill that separately.
@@muziklvr7776 thanks a lot, I'll keep that in mind 🫡
@@muziklvr7776 An advice for all vintage Camry lovers: always fill up your tank with ethanol free, 93 octane, premium fuel. Your engine and fuel system will thrive 😁
I would not put water in the radiator that stuff will do all sorts of bad stuff such as rusting your radiator and destroying its hoses
Need to make sure all lights register, especially the check engine light with accessory on engine off. Someone could disconnect the check engine light before you buy a vehicle.
Yep, when I was younger and more dumb I purchased a car with no check engine light illuminated. Later found that the dash had been opened up the check engine bulb removed.
I have a 2006 Lexus GS and a 1995 Toyota T100 (28 years)..... and both are awesome. Calif. cars and well maintained. They will last just as the wizard says....
2000 tacoma 4x4 manual 235,000 miles 2012 tacoma manual 4x4 2012 corolla 157,000miles.5000 mile oil and filter full synthetic.Use toyota brake pads 140,000 miles on pads tacoma at change.All original rotors.I would drive any of these cross country all 4 cylinder engines
@@garyaanderson214 You must be doing a lot of highway driving. I've never heard of pads lasting 140k. There is nothing special about Toyota brake pads, it's the highway driving for sure. It's also the highway driving why your cars are holding up solid.
@@moshet842 Years ago I had a Lexus that I bought used. The car would not stop properly and was super dangerous at higher speeds. I took it back to the dealership where I bought it. They said nothing was wrong. Total bullshit. I couldn't drive the car and finally took it to a brake specialist. He told me the "new" brake pads were no good.
We redid the brakes with Lexus OEM pads, etc and the car was excellent. It turned out that the DEALERSHIP put aftermarket brakes and parts on it and told me they had installed new brakes. New junk brakes! OEM brake parts ONLY!
@@garyaanderson214 Thats exactly why I went through the trouble of getting Toyota genuine brakes for my 04 Corolla cause the aftermarket junk lasted 20000km then broke in like 40 places
@@curtgomes Made that mistake myself the China sweat shop trash Toyota tried passing off as OEM brakes never worked and in just 10000km when I found actual OEM brakes to change them too and removed them the pads were broken in 7 pieces
5 years ago I bought a double cab Toyota Tundra for $6800 with low miles but it had a broken taillight, cracked windshield, some minor scratches, and the timing belt service was due. I still got a great deal and I still have the truck. It is completely rust free despite being a 2006, however this truck has never seen a salted road in its life.
So far I've found the high end weather resistant floor mats for my cars at salvage yards. I'm not one to really option up a car, but those tough mats to me is what luxury truly is.
I would do all of the title and VinWiki/Carfax checks first - that way you don''t waste an hour or more of your day checking over a car that you're simply not going to buy!
100% When I'm interested in a vehicle I ask the owner for the VIN, ask if their is current active registration that isn't salvage/rebuilt etc, and also ask if they have service records before even going to see the vehicle.
I bought my second gen 2005 Toyota Tacoma Prerunner SR5, 4 cyl, 4x2, access cab with manual transmission brand new off the Toyota lot in May 2005. Paid it off on time in May 2010 and have been driving it ever since. Not a whole lot of miles because for many years I walked or rode my bicycle to school/work. Currently has about 89,000 miles, all in Southern California in the Los Angeles area. Never off-roaded and miraculously no wrecks. Here are all the problems I've had with it:
1) Less than 10K miles -- Manual transmission made a horrifically loud squeaking noise that could be heard from the sidewalk when I drove down the street. Loud squeak every ten seconds on average as I shifted. Huntington Beach Toyota dealership claimed this loud transmission squeak was not valid for repair under the "3 yr/36,000 mile total powertrain warranty." I asked if they had any *intelligent* people I could speak to instead of the sales sleazeball; they quickly caved and "fixed" the squeak by shooting some thick lithium grease around the clutch fork pivot assembly. The grease fixed the squeak for six months and the whole act was repeated over and over until the warranty ran out. It's still a problem I deal with by spraying my own grease, especially during wet weather.
2a) 40K miles in -- Clutch pedal assembly inside cab now squeaks loudly. Paid $250 to have this entirely replaced by local mechanic. He was visibly nervous about his fix when he handed back my keys back but it turned out fine. Occassional squeaks but not bad.
2b) 40K miles in -- Sideview mirrors vibrate themselves loose and nearly fall off. Fixed myself.
2c) 40K miles in -- Light grey paint began peeling on top of cab and at wheel fenders. Haven't fixee but did stop going through automated car washes, which slowed deterioration.
3a) 60K miles -- Inside the lower right dash, the AC fan blower motor failed. I followed advice online and replaced a cheap module first by myself, which didn't fix fan. Later replaced the whole blower fan myself, which did make the AC blow again.
3b) 60K miles -- Driver'a visor failure.
4) 65K miles -- Oil seep from valve cover at top, back right portion of engine. Very minor seep but unfortunately drips straight down onto the header, making the whole car smell like it's on fire. Problem exacerbated when parked at right sloping curb as oil flows from inside engine to that hole. Solved cheaply by parking nose down on a level driveway as much as possible. Partially fixed myself.
5) 70K miles -- Repeated AC gas leaks. Paid multiple times to recharge AC gas but charges only lasted two month each before gas drained.
6) 75K miles -- Gas cap seal failure, coding incorrectly as a fault with some weird emissions valve in the engine bay? Fixed myself.
7) 80K miles -- Major engine coolant leak from somewhere in the lower front of the engine block. Noticed engine coolant resevoir repeatedly and randomly dropping and dried pink crust at front kf engine. Fixed myself.
8) 85K miles -- AC failing again but cause unknown.
9) Entire ownership period -- Headlight housings faded badly. Replaced both housings three times.
10) Multiple, major recalls in this order: incorrect safety warnings, seat belt failure, steering column failure, dangerous floormats, dangerous leaf springs, rusty frame check (pass).
Finally: EPA advertised combined MPG of 22 but in reality it's only 14 MPG combined. A massive lie.
All in all not a bad truck. Total maintanence repairs out of my pocket is less than $1000 over nearly 18 years, not bad.
Hi Wizard, good to see you in your Spring fashion outfit. It makes me feel that Summer can't be far behind! Great video (as usual) by the way.
Almost 500k on my 95 Toyota Paseo, 280k on my 96 Toyota Avalon, and 220k on my 01 Toyota Sienna
First revision of the 1zz engine had major ring issues 99-02. Came in celica’s and MR2’s as well as a few others. Avoid those or buy 03 or newer after the revision. 2AR’s had consumption issues as well in some model’s. Always saw guys rebuilding those.
A lot I see they all smoke or born oil whit 2025 k milles
In my opinion the administrative things should be number 1. You want to make sure it's a vehicle that's legit before you spend your time inspecting the vehicle.
Specifically to Toyotas is the cold rattle VVTi actuator gear (known as cam phasers in other brands). Start the engine when it hasn't been started for at least a few hours, preferably first start of the day. If there is a loud rattling sound coming from the valve cover that lasts about a second or less you have that issue. Very common with the otherwise excellent 2AR-FE engine you find in so many Toyotas from 2009-2017. Some people say you can just live with it, I could not. I want my engine lasting a very long time without worrying about that gear failing and destroying the engine one day. $500 in parts to fix it yourself, assuming you have the ability, and who knows what a mechanic would charge. Thousands. Decide if that is an important factor for you when buying. Lots of videos on YT on this topic with Toyotas.
yea I def have this issues 2009 toyota highlander with 200,000 miles it stops after 2 seconds some days it wont do this at all. I purchased it at 150,000 miles and it's been doing it since if I were to know this at the.time of purchase I would have def talked down the price.
had this problem drove it over 80,000 miles
I remember looking at a 3rd gen 4Runner. Everything looked nice, everything worked. I went back after the lot closed and got under the car. I saw a spot on the frame of surface rust and reflexively scratched it. My finger went right through... Lesson learned.
That was private property buddy🤔you can’t do that! 😂
There is a saying "Never purchase a used vehicle north of the Mason Dixion line." They can also be ate up by sea salt on the coast. This spring I purchased a 93 Chev 1500 with no rust in Indianapolis. The truck was kept in a garage and not used much. Love me some 4Runners, great vehicles!
the 4cyl 2.7l engine in the Tacoma has a secondary air intake system that is supposed to flush gasses from the exhaust. There's a foam air filter inside the intake that wasn't designed to be serviceable. It can crumble with age and get sucked into the air system wreaking havoc. Costs about a thousand to replace the secondary blower motor.
A few things to add from my experience as an auto tech. 90s Camry and Corolla power steering leaks are very common at the pump. And on Toyota's 1zzfe 1.8L 4 cylinder it is imperative that you make sure there is no excessive crankcase pressure because when these engines sit for a couple months or longer the piston rings in the cylinder at the lowest position can get stuck or seize in the piston. If you're lucky it may drive out, but of the 3 that I've had my first car sat for 2 years and had a completely dead cylinder, the second was fine, and my third currently has some excessive crankcase pressure. So if you're buying a Corolla or anything on that platform with that engine find out how much it was driven and how it was maintained
Crankcase pressure is as simple as PCV valve or hose if I'm understanding you.
@@moshet842 the PCV valve is new as that was my original hope for the engine but I had confirmed that both PCV valves operated as intended and the crankcase pressure is from compression glasses entering the crankcase from cylinder 2 for the new engine, I found this doing a cylinder leak down test on all 4 cylinders
Wish I could afford a used one... One day I'll get away from the crap I drive
I've been Looking at 4Runners recently all because you recommend Toyota's Car Wizard!
one big thing exterior/paint wise i think you missed mentioning is the toyota Blizzard Pearl paint recall. basically, poor quality paint will can start peeling off like the shell of a hardboiled egg.
the initially affected panel or panels may have already been touched up/fixed, but any other panels can still start peeling (especially right after the extended recall campaign support ends)
Thanks for this.👍
I think the best deal on the market is a frame replaced Toyota truck with higher mileage. They’re out there and if it’s maintained, that’s a great truck
The trucks that got their frames replaced had bodies that were just as rusted. Fuel lines, brake lines ect were not covered by recall.
Too bad those 15-20 year old trucks with 200k+ are not good deals. Great trucks but not worth 15-20k price tag the sellers are asking and not getting. I don’t care how nice it is; I’m not paying almost MSRP for a base model 20 year old Tacoma
@@icepop54367 I would never pay that much for one - they pop up around me for $8k-$14k and admittedly they’re usually 4-cylinders and occasionally you’ll find a beat up V6, but they do show up
Hey Guy... We're buying a used car...not a new one. Chances are something isn't going to be perfect..nor, does it have to be perfect...It's Not New
Car Wizard I'm glad I found your channel on TH-cam. I first heard of you watching Car Issues with Tyler Hoover on Motor Trend channel. I love the way you explain things in a way that anyone can understand. I have 38 years of automotive experience working in different fields from being a mechanic to selling auto parts. I'm retired working part time at a big chain auto parts store. I find your videos informative and I can pass on what I'm learning to my customers. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
I owned several toyotas and a couple of lexuses, new and used, and by my own experience they're pretty much indestructible but don't cheap on the oil. Toyota engines are quite picky with the quality of the oil, and they'll let you know.
My advice is avoid the 2AZ-FE. The 2.4L that are in the Camry's as well as many other cars in the mid-late 2000s. The pistons & rings were incorrectly designed and have a tendency to burn a lot of oil.
Had a 2009 Pontiac vibe (Toyota matrix) with one and it went through a quart every 600 miles. Still ran fine but eventually I would've had to deal with a clogged catalytic converter.
I got 09 pontiac vibe 2.4 liter. 145k miles. had full synthetic oil the past 12.5 years. burns 1 quart every 2500 miles. I do check the oil every tank full and add up to full mark. it may help with decreasing the amount of oil burned. I did just use seafoam in the oil. I plan on changing the valve cover gasket and seafoam the spark plug holes later this year.
2005 Camry, 2.4L with 5 speed manual.
Over 300k and the only thing ever was a waterpump and heater fan. Milage was crazy good!
When it comes to vehicles without badges a lot of people “de-badge” there vehicles. It doesn’t always mean it was painted
Facts I always debadge my cars as a car guy or I'll just take the sign off and keep the logo like my current toyota
@@Jac735 I don't know one 'car guy' that's de-badged their vehicle..
@petesmitt well you need to get out more in the Chicagoland area it's very common
I'm looking at purchasing a used Lexus LS460 and I had about half of this written down from what I've read here and there. Thank you for giving me an F and then everything I need to get an A+. This is much appreciated.
Get a 2011+
2007-2009 had some bugs to work out
Be careful with the LS460. Control arms are issues and can very quickly reach $10k. The valley plate seals are also a problem and can leak coolant. Look at The Car Care Nut Channel and he goes over all of the issues that the LS460 is prone too. Make sure you get an AWD one too.
Very good advise wizard! Another thing I do to check if the vehicle has been wrecked is checking the glass. Other than the windshield I check to see if the glass has the manufacturer stamped into it. Some models also have the vin etched in each piece if they’re original.
My Kid used to always have his floor mat jammed up by the accelerator on his camry, Its user error for sure, You have to check these things lol
2GR-FE 3.5 Liter 6cyl 2008ish to 2011ish various models have a high pressure VVT oil line with a rubber section in the middle that is prone to catastrophic failure, same for an oil cooler line on models with a tow package Toyota replaced with an all metal hose after 2011. Should have been a recall, they did a TSB replacement that ended in 2020 I believe, other than that great engine, 2009 Highlander, 170K runs like a top
They did a recall but just replaced the hose with a slightly thicker hose, 2011/12 models onwards they replaced the entire thing with a metal pipe throughout, but good news is that it's backwards compatible. Anyone with a 2GR-FE that they want to keep for a while should get this upgrade, as it's pretty cheap (sub $150 I remember), the alternative is loss of engine oil which is disastrous!
If you’re looking at a Toyota with one of these engines, take the engine cover off and look at both the VVTi lines and the oil cooler lines. If you see rubber on these lines, knock the price down. All 2012 and newer Toyotas that have that engine have upgraded already.
@@atx-cvpi_99 Agreed 💯
When it comes to getting the cartridge style filters off the thing that has worked best for me is the Matco Toy117 adapter. It doesn't use the plastic ears at all it uses the bottom of the plastic housing. I've used it hundreds of times and has never let me down. No other adapter works better.
In December I had to take my old 1990 Volvo 240 off the road. My late mother's next door neighbour was forced to stop driving. She duggested I buy her 2004 Corolla with 100,000 miles on the clock. The car had been serviced at the dealership since new. Little Yoda has exceeded expectations.
I was short on time, so I watched this entire episode at 1.75× speed and had enough time left over to comment. BTW, I didn't miss a word. 😂
Hey Wizard! Here in Australia 1vd v8 diesels in Landcruiser 70 and 200 are well known to leak dust through the intake. Known as “dusting” it will eventually destroy the turbos and engine. There are several aftermarket air boxes addressing this, but using one voids your warranty.
I don’t have this issue on my current 200 series, yet. But did have it on my previous 70 series when driving remote dirt roads for hundreds of km. Currently looking into an aftermarket air box by Donaldson filters
In the US a v8 diesel landcruiser is a RARE gem.
Pack joint with grease
@@wildman4642 hasn’t worked for me, I just replaced it with an aftermarket solution.
we like gasoline engines on this side of the world i did see a corolla diesel back in the 80's
@@juanrodriguez-ry6ytSpeak for yourself. The majority of us would jump on a diesel Land Cruiser variant imported to America.
In Germany, it is common for people who order the smaller displacement (cheaper) version of a luxury car to delete the model badges on the order form. The irony is, of course, that no one is fooled by this.
@@elpolaco7654 that exact point was made in the comment..
In the most general sense, your advice is sound, as you say, for any potential purchase,. It's a general primer on due diligence. Your exposition is properly segmented, deliberative and detailed. If I have anything to add, it's in discussing your claim about not having a lot of information about "pattern failures" in Toyotas. And there have been some significant "pattern failures" on some Toyota models. For example, it's well known that the first iteration of the 2AZ-FE engine (high tension pistons), between 2002-2006 (on Camrys, for example) had potential problems with head bolts. These problems were fixed in the low-tension version of the 2AZ-FE (2007-various subsequent years) BUT a faulty piston ring design (poor oil control rings) led to substantial oil burning. The 2007-2009 Camrys and similar years for the RAV4 had such an endemic problem that Toyota had to go through "a campaign" (sealed oil testing for 1200 miles) to determine if they burned more than a quart, during that time. If so, then a new short-block, with revised pistons and oil control rings weree installed. So, for those vehicles, it's important to call a dealer and see if that particular vehicle had a short block replaced. If not, extra caution has to be taken to ensure you're not buying an oil burner.
Another example: The 2012-2014 Camry and RAV4: These years and models have a well-known and pronounced torque converter shudder @ about 40 mphs. The fix was a new torque converter AND a reprogramming of the software to prevent the reoccurrence.
Even small stuff can be an issue: Falling sun visors, etc.
And there are others, as well. (DIsclosure, here. I own a 2008 Camry, 2.4L, LE). I am the one and only owner. I like the vehicle, for a number of reasons. Iimportant among them is that it's relatively DYI friendly. So, I am a fan, but not an uncritical one.
My suggestion is for viewers of this channel to take a look at some of the Car Care Nut's videos on which Toyotas to buy and which to flag for problems. He's an ex-dealership master mechanic (technician) who now runs an independent facility in the South Chicago metro area. (I have no commercial or personal ties to him). He has a number of specific series on all sorts of Toyotas, by generation and model. Take the Car Wizard's excellent general overview and supplement it with the detailed specific information offered up on specific years and models, the better to assess potential problems.
I'd buy a Toyota if my 1989 Mazda wasn't going so well after a third of a million km's.. perfect compression, doesn't burn any oil; I suspect that I'll die before the engine will..
Love Toyota, but very manufacturer lays eggs.
1ZZ-FE ULEV, 2001 and many years: oil consumption from low tension rings and sucking in catalyst materiel from the integrated exhaust manifold CATs that breakdown. Mine burning oil at 1qt/500 miles with 59K miles, engine pulled to block and needs too much work to justify.....GRRRR. A two stroke mix determined to ruin the CATs that hid the issue, no blue smoke. Replaced with 2ZZ-GE in my MR2/S and now perfect and more power/revs and no oil consumption.
PS: Purchased at full price from a Toyota dealer in Northern, Michigan. The dealer cleared codes and covered up the BAD engine problems. Grrrrr. MIL light only after driving when I got it home....WTF Serra Toyota......BAD
P-Chi
I have a Lexus IS250, basically a Toyota still but I was told my engine is atrocious because of carbon buildup in direct injection. Well it’s still good cuz I cleaned up the carbon. Minor issue there if you clean it. Anyhow I liked this video. I love Toyota so I wanted to see what issues were on this list.
Don't forget the defective piston rings in the 2AZ-FE engine used in several models between 2006-2011 which resulted in excessive oil consumption. I was disappointed in how Toyota handled this issue.
My 05 has it
I recently replaced the engine on my 2006 highlander with a low mile JDM one, I think I hit jackpot bc it was in great condition and it doesn't burn oil at all. I'll be doing 3000 mile oil changes for sure, thing will last forever
2AZFE is a garbage motor. Guaranteed headgasket failure and it is not fixable. The head has Allen Key style bolts and you cannot remove them. Total joke plus as you mentioned high oil consumption.
@@warrengauthier4699 Never heard of headgaskets failing on those. Mine had 215k when I sold the car, it did burn a quart like every 600 miles though.
@Jonathan P : I had a 2AZFE with 300kms on it and the headgasket was gone / could not fix it.
You missed some things there... Look for rust, especialy cars that lives in a place that put salt during winter. Look for frame, rocker pannels rear quarter pannels. Also BEFORE starting the car, look for the oil, the color, the smell. It will give you an indication that the car has been maintained. And If the level is low, it means it leaks or consumes oil. Some toyota engines have oil consumption issues due to oil rings or valve seals.
2007 thru 2011 Camry engine oil consumption. Most fixed with a short block. Ask me how I know.
This is A Buyers Guide to a Basic Pre-Purchase Inspection.
Looking to Buy a Car? Do These Things First.
And I'm all for it.
Cracking dashboards are very rare in the Netherlands due to our climate. Rust however can be an issue.
I am so puzzled as to why people don't just leave original floormats with the original car. I haven't bought a used car yet that still had it's original floormats. I don't know, for some reason people always take them... why? Unless the car you're switching into is the same make and model but doesn't have floormats, why are you taking them? They will not fit in your new car properly.
I've seen a few comments from previous car salesmen that said that when detail guys go over them they throw the mats and if there's anything in the glove compartment away .. including the owners manual and service records/receipts. I don't get it either. Those things would be great selling points if you ask me.
@@nuthinbutlove That has to be the dumbest thing anyone at the dealership could do! They're loose items, but they belong to THAT CAR. They need to start training these guys that certain things, no matter how rough they look, they must stay with the car! Floor mats, owners manuals, Monroney labels, second keys, and any other accessories that come with the car, they are not souvenirs and they are not trash!
So basically, toyota is the best built cars and trucks on the road
Odometer checks with services. Does the mileage correlate? So many people spinning back or reprogramming lower mileage for more value for the car. Look at rubber wear brake/accelerator pedals
Really? You ARE aware that a lot of brands and models can be ordered from the factory WITHOUT the "emblems" for those of us that don't want to show an alphabet on the trunk? Been happening since the 90s...get with the times.
V6 engines are bulletproof, but I'd pay a lot more attention to a 2.4L engine, I've seen a lot more issue with those. The ones in the Scion tC could be especially problematic, perhaps because they were abused, but also in some Camrys and RAV4s.
I put 190,000km on mine and has 0 issues. Car ran same as the day I drove it off the dealership, my 2014 tC was the best car I ever owned.
For vehicles inspections I use the AF form 1800, it has a really nice checklist.
😂😅Ah…nostalgia!😅😂
Must have been the squadron VCO because no one uses the AF fm 1800.
@@BlahBlah-em2ed LOL! They did in the 1970s, though!
@@BlahBlah-em2ed You got that right, former VCO here. All vehicle operators must conduct a vehicle inspection per shift of the vehicle they are assigned to or signing for, there are 3 spaces for a 8 hour shift, for each day of the current month. One of the VCO's responsibilities is ensuring the inspections are done by the operators not to exceed 7 days without inspection if the vehicle is not in use. If someone takes a vehicle and it is discovered with a discrepancy or damaged, that operator will respond for each item discovered even if the damage was done by a previous operator. Not a good thing to be answering to your commander.
@@erchamojosue8530 lol. The only people that probably did those were CE/MX nerds.
3.0 v6 are timing belt non-interference
3.3 v6 are timing belt interference
3.5 v6 has timing chain
On 3.0 v6 they do tend to have valve cover gasket leaks around 100k - good time to change gasket and plugs at same time.
Parts tend to be relatively inexpensive and easy to get - for o2 sensors etc... pay a little more and get the OEM nippon-denso
As someone who actually likes to work on their own cars a bit if a lift isn't needed, the toyota and lexus we have are the easiest to work on of anything else I've owned
I just bought a 09 gs ,350 yesterday. It has 125k miles what service do you recommend thanks for your input I'm new to toyota
@@karlhansen3921 I'm not a mechanic but do what I can for fun. I do have a trusted local shop I'd take it to and have them look it over and change fluids so my "honeymoon eyes" are not overlooking things.
im looking at the 4th gen toyota 4runners with the 4.7 V8 and the ones im looking at have 120k-170k miles on them, im looking for my first car and i like the Jeep xjs (i know its very different from the 4runner) but the xjs arent very safe, but i dont want the slow 3rd gen 4runner, and i cant freakin find a tacoma under 10k that doesnt have 346,000 miles on it
I just really want something that isnt going to make me go broke at 16, something reliable, but i dont want a sedan, i hate sedans, definitely a truck or suv. Me and my family like to go camping up in PA and go off on the logging roads, i need something that can do that atleast, thats why i like the xjs
Your wrong, Toyota has has Massive Failures of the 6 cyl engines due to engine seals leaking. That led to a total engine
Failure. At around $6.000. To replace. All auto manufactures have their Crap!
Hey Wizard, one thing to remember when checking out the wheels is to look for the locking lug nuts! Make sure the owner has the key!!! Otherwise the removal can be anything between a mild hassle for the shop and nigh impossible without either damaging the wheel or drilling out the stud. Fun times.
But here's a very, very Toyota specific issue to look out for. MR2 Spyder convertibles produced in 2001 and 02. The precat converters on those had a tendency to shed small pieces of ceramic that sometimes got sucked back inside the cylinder and would trash the engine block. Before the issue became well known, some owners replaced their engine just to have the exact same problem happen within a few thousand miles. The later years had a redesigned exhaust manifold but Toyota never did a recall or officially acknowledged the issue.
The good news is that you can easily tell the newer years by the air intake inserts being painted to match the body vs black unpainted plastic like before.
06 Highlander AWD limited 335k and 07 Tundra SR5 4x4 daily drivers. Still rocking and rolling!
Thank you Wizard for the information that Scotty doesn't tell his viewers about!
Where are the floormats?
Tossed out by the lazy groomers.
Or the dealer has them taken out so he can resell them to someone else who has had HIS floor mats taken by the dealer that sold HIM HIS car.
It's a scam.
The only solution to which is to put pressure on the dealer to either come up with the original floor mats...or supply new ones free of charge to to you the buying customer.
It's amazing when you get in touch with the previous owner and he says "There were OEM mats in good condition in there when I traded that vehicle in 3 days ago." just how quickly the wash bay attendant can find the mats........
This code in Toyota tundra 2010 p2433 suppose to be secondary air injection system air flow . I run the hole you tube , try to fix this code bring my tundra to limp mode , every single video said to change 2 pumps one in the passenger side fender area, the other around the intake area , try to reset the ECM but still in the limp mode . Try to work hard to fix it every body said if bring it to the dealer ship , could be around 3000 dollars , so scary
Great video, but definitely need to mention the massive oil consumption issue with 06-08 2.4L engines. They are in Rav4, Camry, Scion tC and more, and guaranteed to have this problem. The blow-by will kill O2 sensors repeatedly and eventually plug up the catalytic converter. There was a recall for this, but most missed the deadline.
I have a 08 solara sle 2.4L. I bought used 3 year ago with 39 k miles now have 58k miles for 8k dollars. Because of oil burning I change the oil every 2 months or 1.5 k miles when the dipstick @ half full. Other than that car is like new. Does anyone have any ideas. thanks
Early second generation Prius have an oil consumption issue too. Seems to be the rings as some of the oil treatments do seem to reduce it for a while.
My 07 camry has this issue. I just add oil every 1000 miles. No other problems. Oil is cheap, engines are expensive.
@@thenaturalmidsouth9536 The oil blowby is slowly plugging up your catalytic converter and damaging your O2 sensor.
@@Rich_123 maybe, but at 168,000 miles, I don't care. It still runs great otherwise.
Thanks for all your great and educational videos. I was wondering what your thoughts are on the Highlander using a turbo engine. Do you think that this could decrease the longevity of the engine compared to the previous years.
I wouldn't ever buy a turbo vehicle. Turbochargerss spin at super-high speeds, kind of like jet engines. But jet engines get frequent and fanatical testing and maintenance. Who does that for a car or truck? Not anybody.
Excellent video, thank you for taking the time to film and edit it. Priceless information Wizard,
But my brother's friend's boss knew a guy that had a truck with 400k on the original timing belt. Got gas mileage so good he had to pull over and drain some out from time to time.
I've got an 06 Tundra that clunks when I pull up to a red light. cant figure it out if it's UJ joints or lower control bearings. What's the best way to tell?
Thank you wizard for informing people that Toyota is not indestructible. While I was working there I had tons of people who would neglect timing belts, even oil changes.
Maintenance is the key to any car being dependable imo. Listening, looking, smelling and being used to how your car sounds, smells, feels etc. I used to encourage customers to name their cars so they'd actually pay attention to them. Recently helped a customer with her "lifetime" Hyundai transmission and saved her tons reflashing her module.
(Shifting issues)
This was the BEST video of used car buying checklists I have ever seen!! Wow!!! I’ve been married 25 years and my husband has bought at least 4 used cars early in our marriage that ended up being pure trash!!! I finally had to take over test driving and checking the cars out because he did not have my attention to detail. But this was a whole new level of detail to look for!!! I will be a BEAST looking for my next used car(Toyota or Honda)!!!😂 Thank You Car Wizard!!!!!