Hayabusa clutch MOD | Suzuki project part 2
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ต.ค. 2020
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Scottie has a new daily ride, the Suzuki Hayabusa GSX-1300R. Before he uses it as a run around Ian is going to carry out some maintenance and replace some parts as a small project.
This week Ian does the popular clutch cam mod by TIG welding the standard parts. We also have a delivery of parts turn up for the rest of the project.
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Use a bit of loc tide on the bolts for springs. Some times they come off and scratch the inside.
enjoy the vid, thanks for sharing. will you ever be fitting crash bungs on the hayabusa?
Hi zzzpip, I don't think Scottie has any plans for crash bungs, but it would fill the hole nicely where they have been fitted in the past.
Did exactly the same with my Bandit 600 clutch nuts…. Check and double check the torque wrench setting as they definitely don’t like 24nm 😂
Does this mod quieten down any clutch noise ?
Thanks , enjoyed the welding! Are you going from 6pot to 4pot brakes because their lighter? Is there a reduction in performance or do the better pads make up for that? Enjoying all your vids mate. Keep them coming.
I think the 4 pots are more desirable as they aren't as fussy as the 6 pots which tend to need more maintenance. I might be wrong though.
Thanks Deighmo. I think Steven has described the biggest reason for people changing from 6 pot to 4 pot. They can also be hard to bleed. Performance should be similar on the road, I’d love to know how we could test the difference in performance, could make for an interesting video.
Nice welding.👍
Nice of mad4bikes and Suzuki to give you some support. The Suzuki vintage parts programme should be copied by more manufacturers.
Thanks Paul, it’s not perfect but I’m getting better every time I do some welding. Can’t thank Mad4bikes and Suzuki enough. The events are great that Suzuki support, I think you are right, some of the other manufactures are missing a trick.
are the parts welded in the cammed or uncammed position? Thanks
he welded it in the middle position which i think is incorrect as now the limiter to basket pawls are only half engaged. did you ever do it? how did you weld it?
Any new videos coming? Bandit owner here lol
Don’t no how you get the time to do all them projects. But nice work 🏍🔧❤️
Thanks Graham 😎 A 1 hour job can take 2-3 hours when trying to film it! Then editing can take the same again if not longer!
À clutch nut.. sounds like 👍🏽
It does make a lot of noice.
This clutch mod is proven to be wrong, I guarantee you have to change the springs in the clutch pack
This also works on a 2009 b king?
Hi Wil, I'm not 100% sure on the B-King clutch as I've never worked on one.
@@Classicmotorbikes
Okay,i welded it together.
So far so good😬
Clutch rattle is gone😂
Hi, is that a slipper mechanism?
Yes of sorts, it’s to help make hard launches smoother, but when they wear they can make pulling away worse, but by welding it together it operates like a normal clutch.
@@Classicmotorbikes Sweet, looked a nice, neat and effective job as well.
Thanks Steven
Should the last friction plate not have gone in the next slot so it offsets it from the rest. I seem to remember my bandit doing this but I've no idea why 🤣🤣🤣
Got to say an interesting comment, I watched back the video and all the clutch plates are inline when I took them apart, so I put them back how I found them, but in the video I can see the slot you mention with a mark that looks like it has had a clutch plate in there before?!?!? I'll have to do some investigating. I looked at the Suzuki workshop manual I have for a bandit and the clutch plate all line up and go in the same slot.
@@Classicmotorbikes it was possibly my zx7 as I definitely remember doing one like that so it's a 50/50 chance as they are the only ones I've done. I really thought it was the Suzuki though. sorry if I've miss informed you,,👍👍
@vainparasite you are correct the last plate in is off set. Basically it helps reduce clutch chatter and helps spread the load more evenly through the clutch pack. Also on the Busa there are two different thickness drive plates and two different thickness driven plates for basically the same reason. So the first and last friction plate are thicker than the others and the fourth and fifth steels are thicker as well 👍
@@stickyrubbers cheers for that m8 I've just subbed to your channel too 👍👍👍
Yes the last clutch plate is the wrong one and not in the offset slot
need stronger spring to make up for ramp additional pressure lost ,,
Thanks for the information Joe 👍
Yes this is correct
You say, it’s for pulling away smooth… but it has nothing to do with that?!
Before and after noice would have been cool…
Don’t mod this. Take the noice for your back wheel not to slip when gearing down.
If I ride 80km/h and gear down for a tight coroner and pop my couch with no gas. My back wheel would slip. Now this wil slip the cluch and let you have grip.