Just want to say I appreciate the constant updates on your projects. I know it's a lot of work making the vids and appreciate the effort. Keep up the good work buddy!
Use the bars that are bent they look good and they don’t look like you just threw some junk in so you have a roll cage. You should not need the X brace for your build it’s not necessary to have . You will have a good and stiff chassis with the hoop and the back legs on it.
Pre bent bar will collapse under force. Straight bars are to be set up like a pyramid to be supported from two or more locations when under pressure. Don't use the bent bars! Definitely add at least one x brace too.
The idea behind the bent tubes is to keep the rear seat usable. Will it be? Do you plan to use the rear seat at all? You may want to but think about it seriously. I don't think you'll have access. Even if you might put someone back there once or twice safety is more important. The straight tubes will eliminate the use of the back seat for the most part.
@@geniferteal4178 how that main section is setup would make it very difficult to use the rear seats fir passengers. I wouldn't want to try and climb past the seats through that. So surely that would rule that one out.
@@benmac940 that's what I'm saying. The only reason to use the bent bar is to try to use the rear seats but since that's really not possible anyway go with a straight bar which cuts into the seats and that definitely renders them useless. It's the strongest way to go and saving the seats is really a futile effort anyway.
@@geniferteal4178 no you specifically said even if you might put someone back there once or twice safety is more important. Indicating that you consider it feasible to still have a rear seat and the main reason for opting for the straight option is safety. I simply pointed out in my opinion it's not feasible to have a rear seat regardless.
@@benmac940 I'm explaining what I said and what I meant. Please listen. I was speaking for this project. I was suggesting that he may think he's going to put someone back there but the reality is it may not happen much if at all because it's really not feasible. So don't do it because you think occasionally you might want someone to sit back there think realistically is it actually going to happen and how much because you are compromising safety to do it. When someone buys bent bars that's really the only consideration to try to use the back seat and I'm trying to discourage that.
Use the straight tube. Even though it doesn't need to be certified or inspected for any series, you still want to make it safe. A straight bar will transfer the load to the top bar as intended. A curved bar will want to bent at the curve before transferring the load and it wouldn't be class legal in any series.
The curved pipe is stronger, if it was to take an impact from the outside in, if it took an impact from the inside out which would never happen it would be weaker.
@@bretjjjohnson7942 Science and engineering says trusses are stronger than curves. I would not have passed a cage with curved rear frame supports without center bracing to form a truss. The hoop behind the seats would fold rearward in a rollover. The curve would give way making it's endpoints closer together. csef.usc.edu/History/2015/Projects/J0322.pdf
@@WhitentonMike anywere you weld a bar in. Is a potential failure point. You have to think about. It's a street car though. Street cars are more likely to take front, side, and rear impacts. If you weld an x brace back there. Think about were would those bars go. If the car was rear ended, and the welds broke in the x brace.
It sure looked like the bend in that mocked up curved tube was protruding into the space where the rear glass will sit. Personally I think the straight tube would be more functional. That said, if you go with the curved tube, make sure that you have adequate clearance so the tube isn't coming in contact with the rear glass.
It's so wonderful to see the collaboration on this build with you guys, however I and I guess the entire fan club will love to see a full collaboration on an entire build from start to finish. Give it a thought guys
Straight tube with an X brace that runs from straight tube where it attaches to the hoop and the other where the straight tube attaches to the floor. Also add an X brace on the main hoop from the cross bar to the floor. You might want to think about maybe a low profile door bar too. That adds more stiffness from front to rear, and even enhances the frame rail connectors you're already installed.
Straight tubes for sure, add an X brace for extra strength. Mustang build is coming along nicely. It’s cool to see you colabing with them goonzquad boys! Great job bro 👊
Do not use bent supports for the roll cage it doesn't stop the frame from twisting under torque use straight pipe supports better for drifting and racing as well
Having built a few race cars many years ago the method you used for the base of the roll bar is spot on as it incorporates as much of the chassis strength in that area that you can. There are specs for these things in racing rules but I think yours is way more than required so well done.
Problem is tho to make a proper base for the main hoop.... All six sides should have been plated & welded he left the inside box edge open creating a crumple zone.... if it landed extremely hard on its roof it can fold inward and tear the base
I’m not a roll cage expert but as far as being able to access the window, I probably wouldn’t put the curved bars through the speaker holes because it’s very close to the window. The curved ones will limit anything with work with a headliner. The straight ones will limit doing anything with a rear seat. Also, I’d paint the cage before welding. Only clean grind the joints and touch up.
the unparallel cross bars would drive me crazy. If you really gotta do the roll bars don't go through the top of the rear parcel shelf, go through the lower holes on the back wall by shortening the top length of the bars going back.
You’re a genius Ben. The thought and hard work you’ve put in to this build is phenomenal. You are such a talented young guy with a huge future ahead of you. Best of luck with your channel and your business. Your enthusiasm is infectious. Never change 👏
The curved tubes should be used coming forwards over the driver and down inside the 'A' windscreen pillars to the floor with a cross piece inside between them. Better to have the straight ones at the rear to stop it collapsing backwards which it could do with the curved ones. You'll have to firewall the back section, so having straight ones will be a lot easier to locate the tubes through than from above via the parcel shelf. Its also worth having a diagonal one from behind the driver to the floor on the other side to stop it folding sidewards.
use the bent tubes just make sure your back glass will fit before welding and put your X brace from the hoop to the floor around where the shocks bolt. add a straight piece (can be1.25/1.5") from the bend in the hoop back to the bend in the rear down bars that continues down on the same angle or close to your door bars to your torque boxes then connect it together under the car
Nice the way the mustang is coming along......I think the straight pipe is better than the curved one for the roll cage.....it's so cool of you to stop by Goonzquad and help them in the Porsche build......that car is going to be better than perfect.......
I noticed when you had the roll cage rear bent bars go through the rear parcel shelf it "appeared" to me, that the "bends" were protruding past the rear glass window sill and would impede the rear windscreen fitment. It could've just been camera angle but thats what I observed. FYI..
The bent tubes are for the A-pillars. The shorter part goes beside the front windshield and connects to the halo loop around the roof. The halo loop has bends at the front. The rear braces are the straight tubes. The dash tube should go between the A-pillar tubes.
your cage is a little off the main hoop is fine the other part you showed is called a halo it goes from the main hoop out towards the windshield then the bent bars go from your halo down by the dash that's a four-point cage if you want to ad stra9ight down bars to the rear they will add a little weight you won't notice it but the body will be super tight so at that point, you'll have a 6 point cage all that's missing are door bars you could tie your firewall bars into the cage overkill ...... yes but super safe and strong good luck with your choices
Before you weld the rear bars in put the glass there to make sure you have enough clearance with body flex if it's close to touching the glass it will eventually crack it or pop it out.
man you are just churning out mustang videos lately, good to see you back in the groove and full of energy!!! cant wait to see what builds you do after repairing the shop truck. that mcclaren series was a thing of beauty
You should have cut holes in the floor for the main hoop, so it can drop down to fully weld up the back bars. Then you weld up the main hoops to the floor
ALWAYS looking forward to a collaboration with the Goonsquad Boys, Hey Ben I remember that ALL night Mustang job, But my favorite was the Hellcat…. YOU made it look SO easy and I like your QUALITY of work I remember you explaining that some shops DONT use Etching Primer and the importance of it….. I think YOUR McLarean build is going to go down in HISTORY as the BEST build EVER!!!!
The straight tube is in the right spot. That's the harness bar for the belts. It's also for bolting the backs of a racing seat down. If your solid mounting the seats. The bent tubes go through the back. To keep the main hoop from folding over. If it's ever in a wreck.
Those main hoop mounts are a knife edge ready to cut though the floor.. The main hoop should be moved backward with the plates mounted flat on that structural part of the car. The curved tubes will interfere with the back window. Cut out the crossbar and run straight tubes diagonally for strength and so you can install a narrowed back seat.
I agree Steve! They are infomercials anymore, sell hats, shirts, cozies, hot sauce, signed pieces of junk car parts, etc......not a car repair channel! It's ALL about money, glitz and glamor! I don't care about their fancy house being built or what they eat! I can watch Martha Stewart cook food or Norm Abrams build homes for that content! They ARE NOT in touch with what originally put them on the radar screen.......REBUILDING/REPAIRING CARS! They do everything but repair cars now! It's obvious they have have created a money monster and need SALES to keep the lifestyle the have become accustomed too!
The curved roll bars would provide more protection since the car wouldn’t crush down as much, but watch out for your back windshield clearance! It looked like where you had those temporarily clamped off that they protruded out where the back window would be . Plus finish the box , put sides on the box’s you built for the roll cage , so they would give more strength in case of a roll over cause the way you have them now those would crush and make the roll bar fold
Even that you are alone, I like your work and your videos, everything is done with love and professionalism. Iн my opinion, from rebuilders that I'm watching, you are the number one, best videos and best rebuilding series. Honestly I have no patience for next, next, next video. Just if, I have a chance to come and help you, just for the fun and hobby. :) Good work and greetings from Bulgaria :)
don't know anything about roll cages, but the curved tube looks great and don't have to worry about making some plate to go around the straight tube in the back seat area
I would go with the curved bar, it will help the rear pillars in the event of a roll over, also they’ll tuck nicely with the roof and follow the pillars down to stay semi hidden to maintain a somewhat factory look.
straight tube will transfer the force directly to the frame rail. The curved one will work also but force will first be applied to the curve in the tube first.
Use the straight tubes and x it at that point as well. I try to cut a a hole in the plates and In the body to weld the main tube to the frame. The way you did it is fine as well box the plates 100% around
Top notch vid! you made real progress on the Mustang, and managed to get the start of a goonzquad colab. Also appreciate your introducing the eye protection. We just want to see you succeed and be safe!
Glad to see you do read your comments and take in consideration their comments,roll cage is simple,but effective.that’s what counts.glad goo squad got ahold of you,and ask for your advice and help.on the Porsche instead of going full bore and possibly making the wrong decisions.that’s just my opinion.great video 👍👍👍😎😎😎
You referenced the A pillars as C pillars. On any vehicle you start at the front and those are A pillars B second pillars back C third pillars back and so on. Just an FYI.
Ben did you switch main roll bar hoop? The one at the end of the video looks like only one bar across and the one in the beginning had the two uneven bars. Straight tube that cage man, the prebent tubes are a weak spot. Absolutely digging this build! Screw the haters and trolls!
you going to use the Halo? The other hoop goes from your top bar around the roof above your head and the passenger's head up the windshield? This is what you see alot of civic use to come down with a bar to the firewall. I Would do all that, and foam up the bars real good. So when this end's like the Goon's Trackhawk or Porsche will be all intact and easy to rebuild.
i think strutural the straight bar is better and even optical it looks better i think. The bent one is a bit much for being in a street oriented car and making the interior is way easier with the straight tubes.
Round tube looks nice.. but add a petty bar to it to make it more rigid. Even add a Newman bar. I would use the straight bars and add in an "X" to make it more rigid. Great job!
Seems like the straight tubes is stronger. I am really looking forward to you collaborating with Goonzquad! The frame work on the Porsche will be cool to watch. Are you going to box in the base of the roll bar where the base is open on one side! If you box it in that would make the base stronger. As always Vtune I am looking forward to the next video!
Great video Ben, keep up the good work, a collaboration with goon squad would be dope I remember when you did that track hawk at your pops garage that was Insane but love how the mustang is coming out, keep up the great work ☺️ 👍
Whew! Glad you didn't weld the angled tubes. Go with the straight, I guarantee you'll be glad you did, or you'll be wishing you didn't weld the angled tubes.
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Just want to say I appreciate the constant updates on your projects. I know it's a lot of work making the vids and appreciate the effort.
Keep up the good work buddy!
grats on about 2k new subs lately
Use the bars that are bent they look good and they don’t look like you just threw some junk in so you have a roll cage. You should not need the X brace for your build it’s not necessary to have . You will have a good and stiff chassis with the hoop and the back legs on it.
V tuned this is geting booring, showing every detail and no actual advance is shown. Get the car runing
Pre bent bar will collapse under force. Straight bars are to be set up like a pyramid to be supported from two or more locations when under pressure. Don't use the bent bars! Definitely add at least one x brace too.
The idea behind the bent tubes is to keep the rear seat usable. Will it be? Do you plan to use the rear seat at all? You may want to but think about it seriously. I don't think you'll have access. Even if you might put someone back there once or twice safety is more important. The straight tubes will eliminate the use of the back seat for the most part.
@@geniferteal4178 how that main section is setup would make it very difficult to use the rear seats fir passengers. I wouldn't want to try and climb past the seats through that. So surely that would rule that one out.
@@benmac940 that's what I'm saying. The only reason to use the bent bar is to try to use the rear seats but since that's really not possible anyway go with a straight bar which cuts into the seats and that definitely renders them useless. It's the strongest way to go and saving the seats is really a futile effort anyway.
@@geniferteal4178 no you specifically said even if you might put someone back there once or twice safety is more important. Indicating that you consider it feasible to still have a rear seat and the main reason for opting for the straight option is safety. I simply pointed out in my opinion it's not feasible to have a rear seat regardless.
@@benmac940 I'm explaining what I said and what I meant. Please listen. I was speaking for this project. I was suggesting that he may think he's going to put someone back there but the reality is it may not happen much if at all because it's really not feasible. So don't do it because you think occasionally you might want someone to sit back there think realistically is it actually going to happen and how much because you are compromising safety to do it. When someone buys bent bars that's really the only consideration to try to use the back seat and I'm trying to discourage that.
Use the straight tube. Even though it doesn't need to be certified or inspected for any series, you still want to make it safe. A straight bar will transfer the load to the top bar as intended. A curved bar will want to bent at the curve before transferring the load and it wouldn't be class legal in any series.
The curved pipe is stronger, if it was to take an impact from the outside in, if it took an impact from the inside out which would never happen it would be weaker.
@@jasonnovia1846 A curved bar is only stronger if the ends cannot move.
Curved bars are stronger. Every weld is a potential point of failure. You would never pass tech. For any class with straight bars welded together.
@@bretjjjohnson7942 Science and engineering says trusses are stronger than curves. I would not have passed a cage with curved rear frame supports without center bracing to form a truss. The hoop behind the seats would fold rearward in a rollover. The curve would give way making it's endpoints closer together.
csef.usc.edu/History/2015/Projects/J0322.pdf
@@WhitentonMike anywere you weld a bar in. Is a potential failure point. You have to think about. It's a street car though. Street cars are more likely to take front, side, and rear impacts. If you weld an x brace back there. Think about were would those bars go. If the car was rear ended, and the welds broke in the x brace.
I would go for straight tubes for the roll cage.
It's always a great collaboration when you team up with the goonz. Keep up the good work, Ben.
It sure looked like the bend in that mocked up curved tube was protruding into the space where the rear glass will sit. Personally I think the straight tube would be more functional. That said, if you go with the curved tube, make sure that you have adequate clearance so the tube isn't coming in contact with the rear glass.
I was definitely seeing the very same thing. I think he needs to go with straight tubing.
Yeah, definitely go with the straight tubes....you might be able to squeeze it through the holes just to the sides of the seat opening.
Great content Ben! I would go with the straight tubes. Less clutter in the rear window. Also the rear deck is free of obstructions.
It's so wonderful to see the collaboration on this build with you guys, however I and I guess the entire fan club will love to see a full collaboration on an entire build from start to finish. Give it a thought guys
Love your content bro !
Straight tube with an X brace that runs from straight tube where it attaches to the hoop and the other where the straight tube attaches to the floor. Also add an X brace on the main hoop from the cross bar to the floor. You might want to think about maybe a low profile door bar too. That adds more stiffness from front to rear, and even enhances the frame rail connectors you're already installed.
Straight tubes for sure, add an X brace for extra strength. Mustang build is coming along nicely. It’s cool to see you colabing with them goonzquad boys! Great job bro 👊
I would use the straight tube as the curved one looks like it may hit the rear glass and I would add gussets to main hoop plates!
Do not use bent supports for the roll cage it doesn't stop the frame from twisting under torque use straight pipe supports better for drifting and racing as well
Goonzquad lost all my respect so I came to this channel and it’s so much better. Actual good quality car content without the greed. I love it.
Having built a few race cars many years ago the method you used for the base of the roll bar is spot on as it incorporates as much of the chassis strength in that area that you can. There are specs for these things in racing rules but I think yours is way more than required so well done.
Problem is tho to make a proper base for the main hoop.... All six sides should have been plated & welded he left the inside box edge open creating a crumple zone.... if it landed extremely hard on its roof it can fold inward and tear the base
@@angryyank Guess I was assuming he will put ends on. Yes I agree with you.
Oh God! Another infomercial for that stupid hot sauce!
I agree!
I’m not a roll cage expert but as far as being able to access the window, I probably wouldn’t put the curved bars through the speaker holes because it’s very close to the window. The curved ones will limit anything with work with a headliner.
The straight ones will limit doing anything with a rear seat.
Also, I’d paint the cage before welding. Only clean grind the joints and touch up.
This build is coming along nice, I can’t wait too see the finished product
1 to 2 years
Coming along, but!!
the unparallel cross bars would drive me crazy. If you really gotta do the roll bars don't go through the top of the rear parcel shelf, go through the lower holes on the back wall by shortening the top length of the bars going back.
You’re a genius Ben. The thought and hard work you’ve put in to this build is phenomenal. You are such a talented young guy with a huge future ahead of you. Best of luck with your channel and your business. Your enthusiasm is infectious. Never change 👏
The curved tubes should be used coming forwards over the driver and down inside the 'A' windscreen pillars to the floor with a cross piece inside between them. Better to have the straight ones at the rear to stop it collapsing backwards which it could do with the curved ones. You'll have to firewall the back section, so having straight ones will be a lot easier to locate the tubes through than from above via the parcel shelf. Its also worth having a diagonal one from behind the driver to the floor on the other side to stop it folding sidewards.
use the bent tubes just make sure your back glass will fit before welding and put your X brace from the hoop to the floor around where the shocks bolt. add a straight piece (can be1.25/1.5") from the bend in the hoop back to the bend in the rear down bars that continues down on the same angle or close to your door bars to your torque boxes then connect it together under the car
You should check if the back tubes touching the glass
The way you say Sound Deadning cracks me up 😂
Glad they got you to help with the Porsche. Mustang progress looking good!
My boy putting in that work 👌🏻
E30 roll cage is still better tho 😉
Debatable.....
If you mean better meaning hack job you are correct. Did he ever finish that blue piece of junk or what?
@gold guy bro who hurt you. Daddy ain’t coming home quit being so angry
@@marcmartinez2079 Enough about your life story....this is about laughable BMW's and shitty roll cages.
“Honestly guys” this is coming along nicely
“Literally epic”. 🤣
Nice the way the mustang is coming along......I think the straight pipe is better than the curved one for the roll cage.....it's so cool of you to stop by Goonzquad and help them in the Porsche build......that car is going to be better than perfect.......
I noticed when you had the roll cage rear bent bars go through the rear parcel shelf it "appeared" to me, that the "bends" were protruding past the rear glass window sill and would impede the rear windscreen fitment.
It could've just been camera angle but thats what I observed.
FYI..
Love the progress on the Mustang, looking forward to watching it come together !
Would rather see less progress and better build and tech quality ~
The bent tubes are for the A-pillars. The shorter part goes beside the front windshield and connects to the halo loop around the roof. The halo loop has bends at the front. The rear braces are the straight tubes. The dash tube should go between the A-pillar tubes.
Without sounding patronising, the skills and knowledge of a guy your age are awesome 👏
Good job 👍🏻
your cage is a little off the main hoop is fine the other part you showed is called a halo it goes from the main hoop out towards the windshield then the bent bars go from your halo down by the dash that's a four-point cage if you want to ad stra9ight down bars to the rear they will add a little weight you won't notice it but the body will be super tight so at that point, you'll have a 6 point cage all that's missing are door bars you could tie your firewall bars into the cage overkill ...... yes but super safe and strong good luck with your choices
Before you weld the rear bars in put the glass there to make sure you have enough clearance with body flex if it's close to touching the glass it will eventually crack it or pop it out.
man you are just churning out mustang videos lately, good to see you back in the groove and full of energy!!! cant wait to see what builds you do after repairing the shop truck. that mcclaren series was a thing of beauty
You should have cut holes in the floor for the main hoop, so it can drop down to fully weld up the back bars. Then you weld up the main hoops to the floor
Yeah those brackets were so ghetto.....talk about taking up space and being in the way.
@@goldguy4675 I wouldn’t call them ghetto but @vtuned would be a lot safer mounting them to a 2x2 or 2x3 tubing.
I really had my doubts about this build based on previous failed Mustang projects but I’m now a believer, can’t wait to see you drive it!
Its good to see you guys together again ..both of you guys are awesome and the mustang is coming out nice
Love the consistent uploads my guy
On a 4 point cage you want it from the top down and usually straight the curved ones might interfere with your rear window coming along nicely
ALWAYS looking forward to a collaboration with the Goonsquad Boys, Hey Ben I remember that ALL night Mustang job, But my favorite was the Hellcat…. YOU made it look SO easy and I like your QUALITY of work I remember you explaining that some shops DONT use Etching Primer and the importance of it….. I think YOUR McLarean build is going to go down in HISTORY as the BEST build EVER!!!!
I'm pretty sure the curved tubes are the A pillar tubes, and the left over hoop is the top one, that goes to the windshield.
The straight tube is in the right spot. That's the harness bar for the belts. It's also for bolting the backs of a racing seat down. If your solid mounting the seats. The bent tubes go through the back. To keep the main hoop from folding over. If it's ever in a wreck.
A roll cage should help the weight issues. Also, will help in the upcoming demolition derbies.
oh man, that demolition derby is a low blow man! lol
let's go VTuned! Love the Mustang build!
Those main hoop mounts are a knife edge ready to cut though the floor.. The main hoop should be moved backward with the plates mounted flat on that structural part of the car. The curved tubes will interfere with the back window. Cut out the crossbar and run straight tubes diagonally for strength and so you can install a narrowed back seat.
your Mustang will be the car of the year....tell them goon guys that little 14 year olds wear their hats backwards..... grow up....
Your cars becoming badass'd real fast. Great Job. The worst part about any car is electrical and yes getting sand in your crack isn't fun.
Come on vtuned! Goons vids have become dang sauce commercials , we don’t need you to join that party! Gets old !!!!
I agree Steve! They are infomercials anymore, sell hats, shirts, cozies, hot sauce, signed pieces of junk car parts, etc......not a car repair channel! It's ALL about money, glitz and glamor! I don't care about their fancy house being built or what they eat! I can watch Martha Stewart cook food or Norm Abrams build homes for that content! They ARE NOT in touch with what originally put them on the radar screen.......REBUILDING/REPAIRING CARS! They do everything but repair cars now! It's obvious they have have created a money monster and need SALES to keep the lifestyle the have become accustomed too!
That rear tube depends on whether you want a difficult time putting the rear window in and what your doing to block off the trunk area.
Yeah with a fuel tank I'd assume it will have to be fire walled etc. Who are we kidding this thing will never be certified to drive on the road...LOL
The curved roll bars would provide more protection since the car wouldn’t crush down as much, but watch out for your back windshield clearance! It looked like where you had those temporarily clamped off that they protruded out where the back window would be . Plus finish the box , put sides on the box’s you built for the roll cage , so they would give more strength in case of a roll over cause the way you have them now those would crush and make the roll bar fold
Even that you are alone, I like your work and your videos, everything is done with love and professionalism. Iн my opinion, from rebuilders that I'm watching, you are the number one, best videos and best rebuilding series. Honestly I have no patience for next, next, next video. Just if, I have a chance to come and help you, just for the fun and hobby. :) Good work and greetings from Bulgaria :)
don't know anything about roll cages, but the curved tube looks great and don't have to worry about making some plate to go around the straight tube in the back seat area
V tuned and goonzquad the best team ever!
Use the straight tube welded to the frame to avoid fitting problems with the rear windshield
Keep up the consistent uploads V you are doing a great job
I would go with the curved bar, it will help the rear pillars in the event of a roll over, also they’ll tuck nicely with the roof and follow the pillars down to stay semi hidden to maintain a somewhat factory look.
Im watching this guy more than GOonz lately. Im car car guy and not a let’s see a house build guy. GOonz guys are awesome tho !
straight tube will transfer the force directly to the frame rail. The curved one will work also but force will first be applied to the curve in the tube first.
Use the straight tubes and x it at that point as well. I try to cut a a hole in the plates and In the body to weld the main tube to the frame. The way you did it is fine as well box the plates 100% around
Top notch vid! you made real progress on the Mustang, and managed to get the start of a goonzquad colab. Also appreciate your introducing the eye protection. We just want to see you succeed and be safe!
Straight tube
The curved tubes would be fine if you are keeping the rear seats. Straight tube's would be much stronger and keep the car a lot stiffer.
The curve tube definitely!!! You and your brothers are cool 😎 like watching all three of you guys and the welder awesome work
Glad to see you do read your comments and take in consideration their comments,roll cage is simple,but effective.that’s what counts.glad goo squad got ahold of you,and ask for your advice and help.on the Porsche instead of going full bore and possibly making the wrong decisions.that’s just my opinion.great video 👍👍👍😎😎😎
Lots of roll cage experts here!!
Definitely the straight tube. I think the bent ones go forward towards the A pillar.
“ I don’t where the sand came from”. FYI You had this car sandblasted twice
It was vapour blasted. Twice.
That's funny as hell! "I don't know where the sand came from.". FYI you had this car sandblasted twice. 🤣🤣🤣🤣
disc sander without the sand paper on and vaccum the dust from the vibration from the sander
They sent for the master.
Bent tube with the x-brace . Think about tieing into the front also!
Like the calderation with the Goonzquad boy's! And the Dang Sauce!
Love how this Stang is coming together
We love the goonsqaud collaboration all the time
Awesome Porsche job at Goonzquad
Looks like it's a little hot inside!!!
My word is there anything you can't do to a car? Very impressed with your skills and knowledge. Thanks and have a great weekend.
The straight tube looks cleaner
Nice work mate..good to see you and goonzquad working together again
Straight tube. Would be nice to make the roll cage removable
Love the music! Stay safe.
I think you called the A pillar a C pillar....
Straight tube supports, and the cross bracing should come off the main hoop
You referenced the A pillars as C pillars. On any vehicle you start at the front and those are A pillars B second pillars back C third pillars back and so on. Just an FYI.
Telegram asks for a phone number. I'm guessing to add you as a contact.
Keep up the content vTuned. I can't wait to see you pulling on that Porsche!!!!
Great to hear that you will collab with Goonzquad again. Excellent chemistry you guys have. And Straight if better.
Nah screw them greedboys, I unsubscribed from them and just watching vtuned now.
@@marcmartinez2079 If In was Ben, I'd stay far away from the GREEDZquad right now! They are TOXIC at best!
@@marcmartinez2079 I did too!
Ben did you switch main roll bar hoop? The one at the end of the video looks like only one bar across and the one in the beginning had the two uneven bars. Straight tube that cage man, the prebent tubes are a weak spot. Absolutely digging this build! Screw the haters and trolls!
Almost there brother
Straight Tube will do fine...
you going to use the Halo? The other hoop goes from your top bar around the roof above your head and the passenger's head up the windshield? This is what you see alot of civic use to come down with a bar to the firewall. I Would do all that, and foam up the bars real good. So when this end's like the Goon's Trackhawk or Porsche will be all intact and easy to rebuild.
Goonquad had to turn to the goat ha
Good!! I’m glad you’re collaborating
i think strutural the straight bar is better and even optical it looks better i think. The bent one is a bit much for being in a street oriented car and making the interior is way easier with the straight tubes.
Round tube looks nice.. but add a petty bar to it to make it more rigid. Even add a Newman bar. I would use the straight bars and add in an "X" to make it more rigid. Great job!
Retro-Stang👍.
Seems like the straight tubes is stronger. I am really looking forward to you collaborating with Goonzquad! The frame work on the Porsche will be cool to watch. Are you going to box in the base of the roll bar where the base is open on one side! If you box it in that would make the base stronger. As always Vtune I am looking forward to the next video!
I think you should work in the same workshop with the Goon squad then the mixture of skills would be awesome
Great video Ben, keep up the good work, a collaboration with goon squad would be dope I remember when you did that track hawk at your pops garage that was Insane but love how the mustang is coming out, keep up the great work ☺️ 👍
Whew! Glad you didn't weld the angled tubes. Go with the straight, I guarantee you'll be glad you did, or you'll be wishing you didn't weld the angled tubes.
Straight tubes for the roll bar. The curved ones are for rear seat clearance.
Ben, I am always learning stuff from you...using a second set of vise grips for clamping. Cool trick. Thank you.
😷 😷MASK UP BRO 😷😷
WORK SAFE