The plumber that fit my boiler used silicone on the compression fittings of a magnaclean filter I just replaced. He also didnt bother to de-burr any of the pipes. This is why it makes me laugh when plumbers on forums wont offer any advice and tell you to call an experts and then you do and the expert is a cowboy that does everything wrong. Thanks to videos like this we can do thing properly ourselves!
I was always taught as an apprentice, never use PTFE on compression fittings. All that is needed is a light smear of grease or Vaseline on the olive. This allows the two mating surfaces (in the nut and the olive) to compress easier so you will not have any leaks…. Has worked for me over the last 45 years.
@@ron2368 from what I can see, pipe dope is for sealing threads, not applying to olives. I guess it will work, but why buy it when a little smear of grease or Vaseline will work perfectly.
I always use jointing compound on all my joints, it’s so easy and they never leak. Been doing plumbing and other stuff for 20 odd years and compound is the best thing hands down. It removes the issue of human error when tightening olives. I never get leaks. The times I’ve been called out and someone has a leak on a compression fitting because the olive has been over tightened… just a thin smear of the stuff, problem solved. Ptfe is good but can be much harder to apply in awkward situations. Jointing compound is the way.
Jointing compound and my 'grease' solution are the same - it enables the olive to be smoothly compressed onto the pipe. I have never used jointing compound on new pipes with ne fittings and never any leaks!! PTFE is not a solution as it only selas outside the olive so if for any reason the olive is not bedding into the copper pipe - ie if the pipe has a kink - it will not stop a leak.
I have used jointing compound on all drainage pipes and I never have a leak either! I’ll have to try it on pressurized pipe connections and see how that goes, maybe just a smidge
Richard your grease solution has limitations. Jointing compound (Boss White / Boss Blue) allow for expansion and contraction much of the time you can get away with using vaseline but it really isn’t a solution when you have to work in a professional capacity and over time make 1000’s of joints. if the pipe has a kink you shouldn’t use it. Listen to the sound of the fitting as this guy tightens those joints, that’s something you shouldn’t hear except in desperation, in a cellar, when you’re on a tight schedule (and the customer is a bad payer.
@@chrisgee5893 Watching and listening to The DIY Guy tightening the fitting bears out my previous email - modern olives do not have lead lubrication as years ago so greasing them stops metal on metal graunching which prevents a smooth tightening of the fitting. Grease allows a smooth tightening so no need for anything else to ensure a watertight joint!!
Its nearly midnight and I've been trying to fit a service valve under my bath whilst fitting new taps. But a simple job ended up with a leaking compression fitting that didn't want to stay dry. Bit of tape on the olive and it's done the trick! Hopefully not just jinxed myself though. Thank you so much brother!
My life lesson is to solder everything. I did a whole house filter/water softener setup and thought I’d be so professional and break my rule and make the water softener fittings compression type. Much frustration later, just cut out that section and soldered it. Always takes a little thought on layout for access but it’s solid for a few decades. For sure the brand of compression fitting matters… expensive is machined to tighter tolerances, but soldering and brainpower is cheap. But I’m a very good DIY solderer and I don’t charge by the hour.
I too like using end feed solder fittings as they look neat and hardly visible . However when adding or replacing new pipe onto old pipe I always use compression as old pipe may be a different size, is dirty or wet.
Olive removing tools are much better than hacksaw or a power tool, and arent expensive. When access is difficult for an olive puller, I use an olive cutting tool. Alternatives to PTFE tape are liquid PTFE or plumbers mate compound. I agree that copper olives are usually more malleable than brass ones. Soldering is a bombproof method when done properly, but some areas are risky for blowtorches, and have no access for electric heating devices.
You actually put the tape on in a counter clockwise motion. I had to watch twice because you said it was clockwise. I guess it needs to be clockwise relative to the threads of the male pipe end facing you. Great video. Thank you.
Great video I like how you get other people talking about using pipe dope and grease.I think all the above will work thanks so much.I am just about to start a job and don't think I will have to worry about any leaks.
I tried to tighten the nut but it didn't work. So I went for step 2, PTFE tape. Undone the nut and water started pouring out. Couldn't stop it or get the pipe back on. Flooded the house took the ceilings down, wife has left me....... Christmas was cheap this year tho 👍
Thank you for those tips. Could not get the compression ring off so i left the old one on. Weeping a bit, ordered a compression puller and will pull the old one off and use the one that came with the new valve. IF it still leaks i will use the tape as you mention. Keeping my fingers crossed!
Thanks for the video. I will try tomorrow with the tape. Never thought about. I was getting frustrated already by the tiny leak driving me crazy. Tomorrow new sink goes in so would be nice if it wouldnt leak 😂😂
Joint compound is usually not needed, but is always worth a try if a seal cannot be achieved using thread tape. It's often worth checking to see if the previous plumber managed to put the olive on square. If not, fitting a new olive is the only way forward.
Well done sir; you seem to be the only one that I can find in youtube land that’s verified my “theory”, PTFE on the olive. I will place some on the male end of valve as well. Thank you mate
An olive, the compression fitting and the pipe are all precision so never any need for ptfe on the outside of the olive. All it does is lubricate the olive so it tightens smoothly. I use a smear of grease.
Liquid PTFE is readily available. Pop a bit on any fitting, compression or threaded. I've been an engineer 30 years and never had a leak on any type of fitting when using it.
Whenever I fit a compression fitting, I give the joint a squirt of WD-40 or the like just before tightening it up, this works really well, you can feel the joint lining up and the olive bite when tightening. Have never had one leak!
@@martinw245 Vegetable oil as bought at all supermarkets do the job so all safe if for drinking water. But as long as the grease (whatever it is!) is only touching the outer edge of the olive and the tightening nut it is safe. The lubricant is ONLY between the nut and olive to make it tighten smoothly.
If the PTFE doesn’t work mix some Milliput up & wack it around the joint & smooth it off . It will still set & seal even while the pipe & joint is still wet & out live you . I sealed one 40 years ago & it still holding fast .
When I used to use these compression fittings in the 1970’s, 80’s and 90’s they would absolutely never leak. Now, from the 90’s on, every one of them leaks and need Teflon tape to make a seal. I don’t know if it’s the ferrules or the pipe but something has changed.
This might seam a strange comment ,but up to about 10 days ago, I had a leaking compression joint under my kitchen sink, out of desperation and trying not to remove the sink to get to it,I simply turned down the pressure by slightly closing the stop cock, PROBLEM SOLVED ! 😁😄
Great video. I have subscribed. Can I ask one thing, can the same compression joint you used in the video be used on radiator piping instead of using solder joints ?
Here in Texas, some plumbers use Teflon tape on compression rings / olives to help ensure no leaks are present (not on the threads). Also, I’ve seen some plumbers here put Teflon under the olive to help keep it in place. I’m not sure if other countries (like Mexico) use metric sized pipes (if that’s a thing). But I worked on a 1/2” pipe one day at a daycare facility. It was a simple angle stop replacement and the 1/2” angle stop I tried putting on was very loose no matter how much I tightened it so I used a sharkbite angle stop instead. I noticed though that The old angle stop I had removed however, had blue Teflon underneath it possibly to hold it in place? Odd but it seemed to of worked for awhile.
Thanks I took my 3\4" compression fitting off, Wow it was not even indented into the copper, Than I had to use my 1/2" Racket w socket to tighter it down I mean w all my strength to get it to seat and be tight, I than loosed it off to checked to see if it was it was indented, might be a good video for you to make? The problem was I tightened w Adjustable wrenches but it would keep moving and I was thinking how tight does this have to be? and after seeing your video, it still was not seated , Wow if I had left it this way (I actually had it w water pressure on and thinking something is wrong it leaked) have you ever seen a Fitting come off?
For a DIYer, I wouldn’t suggest the hacksaw option to remove the olive. If you score the pipe when you break through, you’ve no chance of sealing it then. Personally, I always use a sealing compound on the joint and plumbers grease on the threads. It tightens smoothly without the screeching, but that’s just me.
Got a awkward weep on a ½" compression with a plastic thread on a little Triton water heater. Tried PTFE so far, scared to over tighten because it's plastic. Would have been nicer if the ½" thread was designed to be used with a fibre washer. Any thoughts?
If, rather when, you leave a teeny scratch on the pipe after cutting off the olive, will it suffice to carry on anyway by putting ptfe round the pipe, under the new olive?
Personally I never tighten or loosen such a fitting without firmly supporting the other half with another wrench, so as not to yank the pipes back and forth as seen in this video. Call me paranoid, but I'm always worried that otherwise some other fitting nearby could start to pipe up (pun not intended). Great tips on the PTFE and removing the olive though !
I must add after a day's worth of grief, please get your hands on good Teflon tape that is wide. I was using what I had laying around (frequently, plumbing related things you buy will include some cheap plumbers tape with it) I was trying to avoid a trip to the store, so I tried using a few of these rolls and they come apart like tissue and are impossible to maintain their width, they turn into string. So much frustration. Leaking like a sieve. Never again. What a waste of time and effort. Also, you may be working with one inch on either side of the ferrule with no room to use the roll itself to help you unroll the tape, you have to cut a length and work with it loose. I went to the hardware store and got some good tape. It fixed it in five minutes like a miracle. With good tape it maintains it's width and it's easy to do a proper wrap. Dry as a bone. A happy camper.
Is a compression fitting that has worked for twenty years likely to be the source of a leak (soaking my kitchen floor) , requiring tightening/fixing the compression fitting? The issue is my Bosch dishwasher that has a difficult-to-diagnose leak that shows up only after it's cycled through to the end of the wash and dry. The wet stain on the sub floor seems to indicate the only possible leak point is the compression fitting on the hot water line into the dishwasher. All other lines, drains, pumps, seals, etc are OK. It seems peculiar that an old compression fitting would be the problem. Do the experts out there feel this is probable?
I'm a little surprised you don't use an olive removing tool. Given how fast they are, I would have thought a pro would keep a couple in his bag. Is there a problem with that tool that we amateurs don't understand?
I use a crox and hemp grommet never fails most of the time. oh and another problem, brass can get damaged by the water and become weak it usually goes red and cracks easy, if your thing is still dripping even after you have played with it it maybe cracked. google says: Brass is susceptible to corrosion; contact with amine (derived from ammonia) can cause dezincification, whereby the zinc is leached out of the alloy causing weakness and porosity in the metal.
If you buy brass fittings marked DZR, this doesn't happen as they have no zinc in them. This certainly applies in the UK and may elsewhere. Yes I have had fittings crumble in my hands through dezincification. One was on a hot water cylinder and that got very " exciting" shall I say.The fittings were not DZR marked though and that's why it happened.
I use jointing compound myself but I've been asked to fix a weeping compression joint that simply will not come undone, it's way too tight and the problem is it's part of a small over the sink water heater so I can't just cut it off and put a new one in - any ideas? Someone's suggested I buy some CT-1 and rub that into it as that will seal even when wet, are there any penetrative sealing sprays? Something sprayed on like wd-40, but will penetrate and congeal to seal a weep?
It is interesting that these fittings use an olive. I have used poly pipe for 50 years and unless there is some solid insert inside the pipe then the pipe compresses inwards over time and it always leaks. I have only ever used flared fittings for copper. But they have a problem if the copper is very old. As new the pipe is soft an annealed but over time it work hardens which makes it less effective at sealing. Obviously I have used vaseline grease and other tricks. I can see that if the olive needs to compress and if the material is as hard as the copper pipe then the fit is critical. Should olives always have sealant applied to the pipe before the olive is put on to ensure no gap between the olive and the pipe?
Hope this helps..all I have is two stopcocks I need to re twist to a different angle to get the appliance in closer..is it ok to slacken slightly and (twist the whole fitting) then re tighten? Looking fwd to an answer pls and thanks
It will be fine. If by stopcock you mean main stopcock then ensure you isolate water in the street first. If you just mean an isolation valve you won't need to worry about that. Re tightening will usually work but occasionally you may need to re seal the olive with ptfe.
If you have one side of the elbow joint free like you did, but you need to take the other end off to possibly renew the elbow joint, but for some reason it's not budging, are there any tricks to try free the fitting up so it can be removed without damaging the pipe or the elbow joint compression fitting? Thank you
Just did this. I applied penetrTing oil to the threads at the male/female interface. Heated the nut on the two sides I could get to (top and right side) for about 45 seconds each, turned off the torch, applied 3 more drops of penetrating oil. Burning my elbow in the process, moved the torch further away so no further mishaps, applied wrenches, and it broke free fairly easily. The secret is to not heat it too long so that the nut expands more than the male thread part.
The plumber that fit my boiler used silicone on the compression fittings of a magnaclean filter I just replaced. He also didnt bother to de-burr any of the pipes. This is why it makes me laugh when plumbers on forums wont offer any advice and tell you to call an experts and then you do and the expert is a cowboy that does everything wrong. Thanks to videos like this we can do thing properly ourselves!
Oh dear 🙈
I was always taught as an apprentice, never use PTFE on compression fittings. All that is needed is a light smear of grease or Vaseline on the olive. This allows the two mating surfaces (in the nut and the olive) to compress easier so you will not have any leaks…. Has worked for me over the last 45 years.
What's PTFE?
@@danbasta3677 the tape he used over the olive in the video
See some use a small amount of pipe dope, maybe that does the same as grease.
@@danbasta3677 Polytetrafluoroethylene. It’s the white tape you get from diy shops to wind around male threads.
@@ron2368 from what I can see, pipe dope is for sealing threads, not applying to olives. I guess it will work, but why buy it when a little smear of grease or Vaseline will work perfectly.
I always use jointing compound on all my joints, it’s so easy and they never leak. Been doing plumbing and other stuff for 20 odd years and compound is the best thing hands down. It removes the issue of human error when tightening olives. I never get leaks.
The times I’ve been called out and someone has a leak on a compression fitting because the olive has been over tightened… just a thin smear of the stuff, problem solved. Ptfe is good but can be much harder to apply in awkward situations. Jointing compound is the way.
Jointing compound and my 'grease' solution are the same - it enables the olive to be smoothly compressed onto the pipe. I have never used jointing compound on new pipes with ne fittings and never any leaks!! PTFE is not a solution as it only selas outside the olive so if for any reason the olive is not bedding into the copper pipe - ie if the pipe has a kink - it will not stop a leak.
I have used jointing compound on all drainage pipes and I never have a leak either! I’ll have to try it on pressurized pipe connections and see how that goes, maybe just a smidge
Richard your grease solution has limitations. Jointing compound (Boss White / Boss Blue) allow for expansion and contraction much of the time you can get away with using vaseline but it really isn’t a solution when you have to work in a professional capacity and over time make 1000’s of joints. if the pipe has a kink you shouldn’t use it. Listen to the sound of the fitting as this guy tightens those joints, that’s something you shouldn’t hear except in desperation, in a cellar, when you’re on a tight schedule (and the customer is a bad payer.
@@chrisgee5893 Watching and listening to The DIY Guy tightening the fitting bears out my previous email - modern olives do not have lead lubrication as years ago so greasing them stops metal on metal graunching which prevents a smooth tightening of the fitting. Grease allows a smooth tightening so no need for anything else to ensure a watertight joint!!
@Chris Gee same as I just said boss white or new fitting and new bit pipe
Its nearly midnight and I've been trying to fit a service valve under my bath whilst fitting new taps. But a simple job ended up with a leaking compression fitting that didn't want to stay dry. Bit of tape on the olive and it's done the trick! Hopefully not just jinxed myself though. Thank you so much brother!
Many thanks. I would have never ever thought that you could use teflon tape on a compression fitting. But then boom! it worked like a charm.
A very useful guide for DIYers having their first dabble with plumbing. I've used all of these tips myself... Great reference video.
Thanks
Adding the tape completely worked. Thank you for the tip!
Glad it helped!
My life lesson is to solder everything. I did a whole house filter/water softener setup and thought I’d be so professional and break my rule and make the water softener fittings compression type. Much frustration later, just cut out that section and soldered it. Always takes a little thought on layout for access but it’s solid for a few decades.
For sure the brand of compression fitting matters… expensive is machined to tighter tolerances, but soldering and brainpower is cheap. But I’m a very good DIY solderer and I don’t charge by the hour.
👍
I too like using end feed solder fittings as they look neat and hardly visible . However when adding or replacing new pipe onto old pipe I always use compression as old pipe may be a different size, is dirty or wet.
Thanks for the video man. I was at my wits end trying to figure this out! The Teflon tape on the olive worked! Thanks again!
Glad it helped!
I was having a problem with a small trickle of water, tried this video and it solved my problem. Thanks!
Your welcome :)
Lucky you. I ended up seeing a urologist!!!
And if you can't get a hacksaw to it they make handy pullers for $10-$20 that will pull the olive off without damaging the pipe. Thanks for the video!
Thanks mate. I used option 1....the PTFE. Worked a charm. . You're a gentleman 👍
Glad it helped
Olive removing tools are much better than hacksaw or a power tool, and arent expensive.
When access is difficult for an olive puller, I use an olive cutting tool.
Alternatives to PTFE tape are liquid PTFE or plumbers mate compound.
I agree that copper olives are usually more malleable than brass ones.
Soldering is a bombproof method when done properly, but some areas are risky for blowtorches, and have no access for electric heating devices.
Thanks man, fixed my leaky pipe in the bathroom and saved precious money on getting someone else to come do it.
Glad I could help
Thank you for the tape suggestion, worked perfect to fix a leaky joint under my faucet.
Thanks for the tips! The hacksaw idea to remove the old ferrule worked perfectly and saved me an expensive call to a plumber.
👍
You actually put the tape on in a counter clockwise motion. I had to watch twice because you said it was clockwise. I guess it needs to be clockwise relative to the threads of the male pipe end facing you. Great video. Thank you.
Great video I like how you get other people talking about using pipe dope and grease.I think all the above will work thanks so much.I am just about to start a job and don't think I will have to worry about any leaks.
This method has worked perfectly for me throughout many hundreds of not thousands of fittings. Thanks
I tried to tighten the nut but it didn't work. So I went for step 2, PTFE tape. Undone the nut and water started pouring out. Couldn't stop it or get the pipe back on. Flooded the house took the ceilings down, wife has left me....... Christmas was cheap this year tho 👍
🙈
Never happened
It did. He couldn't find an olive so he used his wife's wedding ring!😂
Use jointing compound, for the joint, not the wife😂😂😂😂😂
Isolate the water supply before tackling it
Thank you for those tips. Could not get the compression ring off so i left the old one on. Weeping a bit, ordered a compression puller and will pull the old one off and use the one that came with the new valve. IF it still leaks i will use the tape as you mention. Keeping my fingers crossed!
The thread tape on the olive worked perfect. Thank you for a great video.
That's great, thanks
Good practical easy to understand videos .
Worth reading comments on all videos as there lots of good tips from experience d guys.
Glad you like the channel
I never knew that.... Thank's for the tip after years of bungling drippy joints! Better late than never however. Cheers mate
Your welcome
Thank you great tip sorted my weeping joint.
Brilliant 👍
Thanx man the tape did the job, saved me a lot of work
Fantastic 👍
Awesome Video!! I was about to sweat a new pipe on but this worked 100%
Good job 👍
Thanks for the video. I will try tomorrow with the tape. Never thought about. I was getting frustrated already by the tiny leak driving me crazy. Tomorrow new sink goes in so would be nice if it wouldnt leak 😂😂
Thanks mate; that worked a treat.
Shit, I think this was the first time I ever liked and subscribed after watching only one vid.
That was useful!
Haha fantastic 😀
I'm lucky to know about this channel
Thank you for your help, please keep uploading videos like soldering
Thank you, I will
Joint compound is usually not needed, but is always worth a try if a seal cannot be achieved using thread tape. It's often worth checking to see if the previous plumber managed to put the olive on square. If not, fitting a new olive is the only way forward.
I'll never see an olive in the same way again. Thanks from the 🇺🇸!
👍
To remove an olive use an olive puller tool. Monument do a great one, and it works for both 15mm and 22mm!!!!!
Thanks mate saved me a lot of bucks on a Plumber love your work ! thanks !!!
Thanks 👍
mate, you are a gem
Thanks mate. Will try this later today!! 💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾
Well done sir; you seem to be the only one that I can find in youtube land that’s verified my “theory”, PTFE on the olive. I will place some on the male end of valve as well. Thank you mate
Your welcome
An olive, the compression fitting and the pipe are all precision so never any need for ptfe on the outside of the olive. All it does is lubricate the olive so it tightens smoothly. I use a smear of grease.
Great job at explaining stuff mate. Cheers
Good info. Thank you for sharing this video and your insights!
I have a PTFE paste which is quite useful in these cases, but the 7 wraps of tape is one thing I’ve not tried, but been there done all the rest 😊
👍
They do make an olive puller..... cheap and it works great!
Thanks! The first solution worked!
Glad it helped!
Liquid PTFE is readily available. Pop a bit on any fitting, compression or threaded. I've been an engineer 30 years and never had a leak on any type of fitting when using it.
Whenever I fit a compression fitting, I give the joint a squirt of WD-40 or the like just before tightening it up, this works really well, you can feel the joint lining up and the olive bite when tightening. Have never had one leak!
grease, oil, wd or even soap allows the metal to metal to compress smoothly and make a watertight joint.
@@richardlewis5316 Yes, all will work well, but WD-40 is probably more convenient/quick to use as it's in a spray can
@@richardlewis5316
Should be non toxics though. Suitable for potable water. I would never use grease or oil.
@@martinw245 Vegetable oil as bought at all supermarkets do the job so all safe if for drinking water. But as long as the grease (whatever it is!) is only touching the outer edge of the olive and the tightening nut it is safe. The lubricant is ONLY between the nut and olive to make it tighten smoothly.
The PTFE tape fixed my issue :)
If the PTFE doesn’t work mix some Milliput up & wack it around the joint & smooth it off . It will still set & seal even while the pipe & joint is still wet & out live you . I sealed one 40 years ago & it still holding fast .
Brilliant video thank you very much
Your welcome
What about jointing compound? Just smear a little around the olive on the side to the open end of the pipe and fit in the normal way.
No need for jointing compound on new copper and new fittings. Use grease as a lubricant and no leaks
Thankfully it helps a lot 😊
Glad it helped
TPFE for the win!
When I used to use these compression fittings in the 1970’s, 80’s and 90’s they would absolutely never leak. Now, from the 90’s on, every one of them leaks and need Teflon tape to make a seal. I don’t know if it’s the ferrules or the pipe but something has changed.
I cant comment on that because i was far too young in the 90's to have used old fittings. However i don't tend to get many leaks.
Thanks for the laugh at 1:11. You know your audience!
This might seam a strange comment ,but up to about 10 days ago, I had a leaking compression joint under my kitchen sink, out of desperation and trying not to remove the sink to get to it,I simply turned down the pressure by slightly closing the stop cock, PROBLEM SOLVED ! 😁😄
Great video. I have subscribed. Can I ask one thing, can the same compression joint you used in the video be used on radiator piping instead of using solder joints ?
Answer is yes! It may not LOOK as neat as a compression joint fitting, but it's a lot easier and more straightforward than soldering.
Absolutely right 👍
Here in Texas, some plumbers use Teflon tape on compression rings / olives to help ensure no leaks are present (not on the threads). Also, I’ve seen some plumbers here put Teflon under the olive to help keep it in place. I’m not sure if other countries (like Mexico) use metric sized pipes (if that’s a thing). But I worked on a 1/2” pipe one day at a daycare facility. It was a simple angle stop replacement and the 1/2” angle stop I tried putting on was very loose no matter how much I tightened it so I used a sharkbite angle stop instead. I noticed though that The old angle stop I had removed however, had blue Teflon underneath it possibly to hold it in place? Odd but it seemed to of worked for awhile.
PTFE Tape is Teflon mate.
Thanks I took my 3\4" compression fitting off, Wow it was not even indented into the copper, Than I had to use my 1/2" Racket w socket to tighter it down I mean w all my strength to get it to seat and be tight, I than loosed it off to checked to see if it was it was indented, might be a good video for you to make? The problem was I tightened w Adjustable wrenches but it would keep moving and I was thinking how tight does this have to be? and after seeing your video, it still was not seated , Wow if I had left it this way (I actually had it w water pressure on and thinking something is wrong it leaked) have you ever seen a Fitting come off?
Thanks, glad you found it helpful. I have seen compression fittings leak plenty of times but never seen one come off fully.
That's the same as mine attached to a live radiator! Do you have to turn the water stop cock OFF first though?
Thanks...
Gave you 👍 but put the junior hacksaw blade in the right way round (teeth facing forward)
Great tutorial, thank you very much.
Glad it was helpful
@@TheDIYGuy1 I hear Suffolk, right?
@@AntPDC Close, Norfolk 👍
For a DIYer, I wouldn’t suggest the hacksaw option to remove the olive. If you score the pipe when you break through, you’ve no chance of sealing it then. Personally, I always use a sealing compound on the joint and plumbers grease on the threads. It tightens smoothly without the screeching, but that’s just me.
Got a awkward weep on a ½" compression with a plastic thread on a little Triton water heater.
Tried PTFE so far, scared to over tighten because it's plastic.
Would have been nicer if the ½" thread was designed to be used with a fibre washer.
Any thoughts?
Great video. Thanks!
Your welcome
what about using joining compound with the compression fitting? Should work as well.
If, rather when, you leave a teeny scratch on the pipe after cutting off the olive, will it suffice to carry on anyway by putting ptfe round the pipe, under the new olive?
You only scratch the pipe if you cut your groove too deep. Keep the blade away from the pipe and just cut into the olive and your good
Personally I never tighten or loosen such a fitting without firmly supporting the other half with another wrench, so as not to yank the pipes back and forth as seen in this video. Call me paranoid, but I'm always worried that otherwise some other fitting nearby could start to pipe up (pun not intended). Great tips on the PTFE and removing the olive though !
👍
Just... thank You!
Welcome!
Boss white is your friend
Sweet, cheers
I must add after a day's worth of grief, please get your hands on good Teflon tape that is wide. I was using what I had laying around (frequently, plumbing related things you buy will include some cheap plumbers tape with it) I was trying to avoid a trip to the store, so I tried using a few of these rolls and they come apart like tissue and are impossible to maintain their width, they turn into string.
So much frustration. Leaking like a sieve. Never again. What a waste of time and effort.
Also, you may be working with one inch on either side of the ferrule with no room to use the roll itself to help you unroll the tape, you have to cut a length and work with it loose.
I went to the hardware store and got some good tape. It fixed it in five minutes like a miracle. With good tape it maintains it's width and it's easy to do a proper wrap. Dry as a bone. A happy camper.
ive been a plumber for over 40 years and have never used ptfe tape on compression joints. Always use a potable jointing paste applied to the pipe.
pipe dope on olive works great too!
👍
Great video and great tips and subscribed :)
Thanks for subscribing
Worked for me. Thanks!
Glad it helped you!
Very good videos
Thanks
Is a compression fitting that has worked for twenty years likely to be the source of a leak (soaking my kitchen floor) , requiring tightening/fixing the compression fitting? The issue is my Bosch dishwasher that has a difficult-to-diagnose leak that shows up only after it's cycled through to the end of the wash and dry. The wet stain on the sub floor seems to indicate the only possible leak point is the compression fitting on the hot water line into the dishwasher. All other lines, drains, pumps, seals, etc are OK. It seems peculiar that an old compression fitting would be the problem. Do the experts out there feel this is probable?
Thanks
No problem
If you put a drop of oil on the threads it will take the friction out of the join and make it easier to tighten
I'm a little surprised you don't use an olive removing tool. Given how fast they are, I would have thought a pro would keep a couple in his bag. Is there a problem with that tool that we amateurs don't understand?
Very helpful thanks 👍
Anytime 👍
Always lube these fittings! And then over-tight, release, and final set with ease, not crazy tight!
Thanks mate.
Your welcome 👍
I did not know you could saw an olive off. Thanks.
Anytime
Great video !!! thanks
Anytime 👍
Your videos are soo good! how fond you have 10m subs!
Thanks
Easy to follow if there isn't water pouring out everywhere, I must need an earlier vlog that tells you how to stop the water supply.
Birdy
Thank you very much
Anytime 👍
You can often use a spanner and a mallet to knock the nut to remove the olive. If you do a lot of this, then use olive-splitting pliers.
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I use a crox and hemp grommet never fails most of the time.
oh and another problem, brass can get damaged by the water and become weak it usually goes red and cracks easy, if your thing is still dripping even after you have played with it it maybe cracked.
google says: Brass is susceptible to corrosion; contact with amine (derived from ammonia) can cause dezincification, whereby the zinc is leached out of the alloy causing weakness and porosity in the metal.
If you buy brass fittings marked DZR, this doesn't happen as they have no zinc in them. This certainly applies in the UK and may elsewhere. Yes I have had fittings crumble in my hands through dezincification. One was on a hot water cylinder and that got very " exciting" shall I say.The fittings were not DZR marked though and that's why it happened.
LOVE IT
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I use jointing compound myself but I've been asked to fix a weeping compression joint that simply will not come undone, it's way too tight and the problem is it's part of a small over the sink water heater so I can't just cut it off and put a new one in - any ideas? Someone's suggested I buy some CT-1 and rub that into it as that will seal even when wet, are there any penetrative sealing sprays? Something sprayed on like wd-40, but will penetrate and congeal to seal a weep?
Is there a way to cut out the piece of pipe and re plumb that section? I wouldn't go with the CT1 idea personally.
Thanks that was a of help to me today 😁🤗🤗
do you have to turn the water off to do this thanks
Yes I would advise that you turn it off.
Nice thanks for the heads up bro
Very welcome 👍
It is interesting that these fittings use an olive. I have used poly pipe for 50 years and unless there is some solid insert inside the pipe then the pipe compresses inwards over time and it always leaks. I have only ever used flared fittings for copper. But they have a problem if the copper is very old. As new the pipe is soft an annealed but over time it work hardens which makes it less effective at sealing. Obviously I have used vaseline grease and other tricks. I can see that if the olive needs to compress and if the material is as hard as the copper pipe then the fit is critical. Should olives always have sealant applied to the pipe before the olive is put on to ensure no gap between the olive and the pipe?
Hope this helps..all I have is two stopcocks I need to re twist to a different angle to get the appliance in closer..is it ok to slacken slightly and (twist the whole fitting) then re tighten? Looking fwd to an answer pls and thanks
It will be fine. If by stopcock you mean main stopcock then ensure you isolate water in the street first. If you just mean an isolation valve you won't need to worry about that. Re tightening will usually work but occasionally you may need to re seal the olive with ptfe.
Thank you!!!!
Your welcome 👍
Use your hacksaw to remove 1/8” off the end of the copper pipe. You won’t need to replace the olive or use any Teflon tape.
If you have one side of the elbow joint free like you did, but you need to take the other end off to possibly renew the elbow joint, but for some reason it's not budging, are there any tricks to try free the fitting up so it can be removed without damaging the pipe or the elbow joint compression fitting?
Thank you
Just did this. I applied penetrTing oil to the threads at the male/female interface. Heated the nut on the two sides I could get to (top and right side) for about 45 seconds each, turned off the torch, applied 3 more drops of penetrating oil. Burning my elbow in the process, moved the torch further away so no further mishaps, applied wrenches, and it broke free fairly easily. The secret is to not heat it too long so that the nut expands more than the male thread part.
Thank you👍👍
The best thing with compression fittings is do not over tighten,always leave yourself room to tighten in increments
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