I used ‘Plumbers Mait’ Quick Leak Repair Putty, where you have to knead it between your fingers, then put it over the leak. ..Worked a treat!! Love this fellas videos! He’s a great help. Really appreciate people like this who come on here and share their hard won knowledge, with us laymen. Deserve all the praise they get. Thankyou!
Thank you so much for this - I am now waiting to see if my leaky ballofix will seal itself. In future I will be turning off the water from the street stopcock before doing any plumbing work!
Worth pointing out, that sometimes these valves are found on central heating systems (e.g. to isolate a radiator for removal or service without having to drain down an entire system). In this application they do frequently leak as they the internal seal is exposed to the grit and "acid" content of central heating primary water. As far as the seal is concerned, the cheaper type do have a rubber seal for the ball which can perish or become dislodged against the ball, giving rise to the problem shown but - the more expensive types (e.g. Pegler) have a PTFE seal and stainless steel ball which does reduce the likleyhood of a leak. Finally there are types which are "full bore" which don't reduce the flow much whereas the "cheapos" have a much reduced bore and smaller ball and seal. I have found that the full bore type (much more expensive) rarely leak. Nice presentation - thanks!
Oh man! Ballofix valves! BTW Al, std ones are about £1 each if ya buy a ten pack. The full bore ones are more expensive though.The older versions with the tiny slit for the slotted screwdriver are a real pain in my experience. You turn it to off position and the slotted driver insertion part breaks and ya get covered with a fine mist spray/leak, go legging off to the stop tap to isolate the mains... stop tap is seized... go legging off to the mwa stop tap... lift the lid and start digging out the crud... etc etc etc....
You are brilliant, good humoured and informative. Well done. I have also tapped it gently with a straight screwdriver (in the slot) which sometimes loosens the limestone scale which causes the problem (maybe?) in the first place.
Great vid - very informative but easy to understand. I'll give my leaky tap valve a go tomorrow though it was pissing all over the shop when I turned the valve the other day! Maybe just a little turn will do it 👍🏼
Thanks! Just had a panicky moment when water started peeing out, thought maybe its some sort of bleeder rather than isolation. Cuppa tea, then will go back to it!!
Thanks for your video. I've just replaced my toilet and cistern. As soon as I turned on the isolation valve it started leaking. I reckon the valve must be at least 10 years old. I've wrapped a rag around it to see if it will stop by itself. If not, I'll try turning the valve a little
just had one of these fitted by a plumber. Thought I was being a good customer by paying him on the spot. Left me with a leak and blanking my calls. So at least I can give it a go and fix it myself.
Had this problem with two valves in an inline heating installation in winter...wrapped Self Amalgamating Repair Tape round the valves and no more leaks...before replacing 3 months later!
I have one on the f&e tank it will only turn a very small amount and only just turns off and on, I'm not going to try and force it and make it leak and screw driver blade can't grip the mullered slot anyway.. going to have to change it, are the 15mm ball valves all the same length even the full bore one's Al? With the nuts and olives tightened mine measures about 58mm
The ballafix ones are the same length but the full bore ones are a tad longer (cant remember exact amount)r if you can pull the pipe out a bit to accommodate it would be better.
ive known them to stop leaking after about say 30 seconds when opened .. also had one spray out without touching it all under a sink because i turned a main stop top off ...
Thanks so much, you reassured me to carry on with replacing my boiler pump. when I turned the little stop valves either side of the pump one started to dribble. I carried on and after the new pump was in and running the dribble just faded away after a few hours.
Hi Derek ! It seems stupid that when you need to turn the valve off for some reason it fails ! why bother fitting if we cannot depend on it when called upon (which may very often and likely be years later ) perhaps proper Ballofix quality would pay dividends in the long run ?
As I understand it a service valve screw can be turned either way to close off the water as long as you have the slot in the screw 90 degrees to the run of the pipe, it’s just that I turned one off tonight and it leaked so had to turn it back on so now have to turn stop cock off unless there’s another service valve further down the run, I think I sent you pick of a lever tap a while ago and didn’t finish message before I accidentally sent, but I took screw out of centre of tap should top of tap cone off then the lever part only this one won’t or does it have to be lifted up some how for it to come off, cheers
Use the main stopcock it is much safer. Once that screw is out of the tap the top should just come off, it becomes stuck on over time, give it a light tap upwards with a small hammer to dislodge it.
I hate these isolation valves. I was doing some work on a hot water tap and as soon as I turned it to the off position it started leaking. I then tried changing the position of it a few times and thought it had stopped leaking. Carried on working on the tap a few hours later I was looking at the floor and it was all soaking wet, unknown to me it had continued leaking *sigh*. In the end I've wrapped a towel around it and plan to replace it when I get chance tomorrow.
People do yourselves a favor and use only lever valves when needed. These are so useless they should be banned. No surprise you can't find them anywhere in Europe, only seen them in the UK.
I have a washing machine service valve ( hot water) that seems to have been dripping for some time from the actual tap, I turned the tap on slightly the off and the leak seems to have stopped, should I leave it and hope it doesn’t leak or fit as stop end? It’s not connected to the washing machine as that’s cold water feed only. I was going to stick a push fit stop end on in place of the service valve but read in the comments on one of your videos that they shouldn’t be used as a permanent repair?
we have one that leaks in the winter then after 100ml leaking every day for a few weeks it can suddenly stop but thanks for the video (ours is in a very awkward position hence trying to fix)
mine dripped this week after I turned toilet basin sink water off with the plan to change the taps. I decided not to go further until i find the mains turn off, just moved in. valve should be 20 yrs old. think ill just plan to replace them and have flex tails installed too.
I just had this in a diy task. It leaked when closed, but when opened again (with water pressure) the leak stopped. I will buy a spare and keep an eye on where the leak was.
I had one leak when working on a toilet. I sprayed the turn screw with WD40 which stopped it leaking. I am wondering if the WD40 caused the rubber seal to expand and this stopped the leak.
Hi great video Im wondering if you can advise- my tap is dripping and I cant budge stop cock I thought id try the isolation valve when I turned very slightly to the right water came out so I turned it back would it have been water in store in other words is it normal..Totally paranoid about water..Thankyou.!!
I came here full of hope having read the title "How to fix a leaking isolation valve" only to hear you tell me "well what can be done, basically there's nothing you can do except change the valve" What a waste of time, thank you.
Hi, love your videos. What do I do if I’ve fitted a new one but the screw won’t turn? I’ve tried brute force and WD40 left on over night, it’s the cold feed pipe.
Mine had a plastic service valve. Can you still buy these? I had to fit a metal type, but the sealing face is different to the plastic inlet of the cistern. Any suggestions please? The thread is the same, but sealing faces aren't. the old one had an sealing ring inside. Do I now have to change the whole cistern unit? Thanks
My hot water one for the kitchen sink has started leaking after replacing the mixer. Sodding thing is in between the wall and wall cabinet so it looks like I'll have to remove the cabinets to replace it, grrrrrr!
Great vid I've just had a baxi installed and there's a drip on the isolation flow valve the plumber has now failed to come back 5 times to fix it the more I thighten it it gets less but watching your other video I am scared to overtighten it and bust the olive should they not be too tight cheers
I've just fitted a new sink and have added these below the taps. I have a tiny leak from under the isolator valve on the hot pipe (yes it is fitted the right way round) would this benefit from your fix?
@@dereton33 Thanks for the quick reply, I will check the bottom nut first and if it still needs it will try a small turn on the isolator. But first a cuppa and a 10 min rest for my poor knees :)
ive a downstairs toilet where this valve has jammed up. Got a few things to try to unjam it, but if I do need to cut the water can it usually be done from the main stopcock (under the kitchen sink) and flush until no more water? Im guessing its not fed from the tank in the attic?
Love your videos, I wonder if you can help with this please. Today I removed a dishwasher which had a similar looking valve in the feed pipe but the screw would not turn clockwise so I turned it the other way to loosen it and the screw actually unscrewed all the way out. The screw has a rubber seal on the point which goes into the pipe.I screwed it back in all the way until it stopped turning. My question is, what is this type of valve and how do you stop/allow the water flow through it? (I had to turn off the mains at the stopcock to work on the dishwasher) Thank you.
Thanks for your reply but it doesn't look like a tap, it looks exactly like an isolation valve. It is at the end of the pipe which is teed to the cold water feed to the sink tap although there is also a washing machine valve with blue lever connected after that to connect the hose from the d/w. It has compression fittings at each end and a screw in the centre. I have a photo but can't attach it to this note.
Just found on line this, Brass Double Check Valve CR. www.valvesonline.co.uk/brass-double-check-valve-cr.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiAiKrUBRD6ARIsADS2OLk8buwpB4TJRWc_xLmB_yzWJEzSypa2x26ty0Ubsqr1cNFgsLsVLLIaAuW8EALw_wcB I reckon that's it.
O I see it . It is not an isolation valve but a non return check valve. They are called check valves. They stop water movement in one direction, they do not turn off water.
Thanks for the video. Do you think the application of an external spray sealant might help things out here? (at least until the next time you have to turn the valve).
I've never had any success with sealants for anything that's under mains pressure, even a tiny leak. Sealants are ok for non-mains pressure leaks such as waste pipes etc.
Hello and thanks for your videos. I have to change out one of these valves. It has Copper piping one side and white plastic the other. I notice there's a bit of ptfe tape visible on either side of the valve. What pitfalls are there do you think
My plumber used these in the central heating system to isolate the top and bottom floors; one of the valves started to leak so I'm guessing this is bad engineering practice.
Look down the middle of one, reduces the diameter significantly, reduces flow and increases chances of blockage. Dont ever use 15mm ball valves anywhere for heating circuit.
@@dereton33 i have polyplumb pipes under my sink. I've purchased kitchen taps with flexi tails. How do i successfully connect flexi tails onto polyplumb? I was thinking if i install metal isolation valve onto the polyplumb with inserts and copper olive, it'll be suffice. Any guidance would be highly appreciated please Dereton. Thanks
Hi, been a subscriber to your channel for a while & always find your videos have really great advice...wondering if you can help - in your professional opinion what's the best make of central heating boiler on the market today? I'm having a new kitchen which also means upgrading to a new combi boiler...just starting to get quotes for the boiler so any advice & tips and would be a great help. Thanks...Ann
dereton33 thank you so much, wasn't certain but thought it might be a Worcester...it's a bit of a minefield out there, actually had an engineer visit earlier today who is an authorised installer for them so just waiting for a quote now, fingers crossed we don't get ripped off price wise but he seemed a decent sort so I think it'll be ok. Had an approx quote over the phone for a different make (sorry can't remember which one just now) and the quote was between £2.500 & £3.000 probably totally different prices to your area....anyway thanks again, you've helped put my mind at rest a bit..lol. Ann
@@dereton33 Yeah, that's my point, I can't replace it till I can shut the water off, the two I have won't turn, I have the type where you use a flat screw driver & the type that's like a garden tap but neither will turn, I want to be able to turn at least one of them to turn the water off.
This video shows a cheap copy of the original Ballofix. Don’t use these. Use only the original Ballofix manufactured by BROEN in Denmark. They last forever. The cheap copies use PTFE in the spindel and around the ball. That’s why they leak. The presenter keep calling the shown valve a Ballofix. That’s misleading the viewer. Ballofix is a protected trademark and the brand may only be used for the original one. This so called expert in the video is misusing the brandname and putting Ballofix in a bad situation. Don’t listen to him. When you buy a Ballofix please make sure that is is marked with the Ballofix on the valve.
@dereton33 sorry, but I don’t think you know what the difference is. You show a cheap copy of a Ballofix probably produced in China. You call it a Ballofix. It’s not. It’s a mini ballvalve. Ballofix has been produced by BROEN in DK since 1960 and installed more than 140 mill places. I know what I’m talking about as sales director of Ballofix at BROEN. The problem you are showing is fake when you call it a Ballofix.
I used ‘Plumbers Mait’ Quick Leak Repair Putty, where you have to knead it between your fingers, then put it over the leak. ..Worked a treat!!
Love this fellas videos! He’s a great help. Really appreciate people like this who come on here and share their hard won knowledge, with us laymen.
Deserve all the praise they get.
Thankyou!
Many thanks Jay.
dereton33 You are most welcome bro!
Thank you so much for this - I am now waiting to see if my leaky ballofix will seal itself. In future I will be turning off the water from the street stopcock before doing any plumbing work!
Worth pointing out, that sometimes these valves are found on central heating systems (e.g. to isolate a radiator for removal or service without having to drain down an entire system). In this application they do frequently leak as they the internal seal is exposed to the grit and "acid" content of central heating primary water. As far as the seal is concerned, the cheaper type do have a rubber seal for the ball which can perish or become dislodged against the ball, giving rise to the problem shown but - the more expensive types (e.g. Pegler) have a PTFE seal and stainless steel ball which does reduce the likleyhood of a leak. Finally there are types which are "full bore" which don't reduce the flow much whereas the "cheapos" have a much reduced bore and smaller ball and seal. I have found that the full bore type (much more expensive) rarely leak. Nice presentation - thanks!
Thanks for the info.
Oh man! Ballofix valves! BTW Al, std ones are about £1 each if ya buy a ten pack. The full bore ones are more expensive though.The older versions with the tiny slit for the slotted screwdriver are a real pain in my experience. You turn it to off position and the slotted driver insertion part breaks and ya get covered with a fine mist spray/leak, go legging off to the stop tap to isolate the mains... stop tap is seized... go legging off to the mwa stop tap... lift the lid and start digging out the crud... etc etc etc....
Isn't plumbing fun.
Thanks you!!! I twisted it a tiny bit and stopped the leak such an easy fix that really helped me. Thanks
Excellent!
You can learn more from a good humoured man than a hundred misery guts
I like your style
Thanks. I try to keep a happy face.
Thanks for this video, I'm a complete amateur and you helped me diagnose the issue
Great to hear!
You are brilliant, good humoured and informative. Well done. I have also tapped it gently with a straight screwdriver (in the slot) which sometimes loosens the limestone scale which causes the problem (maybe?) in the first place.
Cheers Roy.
Great vid - very informative but easy to understand. I'll give my leaky tap valve a go tomorrow though it was pissing all over the shop when I turned the valve the other day! Maybe just a little turn will do it 👍🏼
Thanks! Just had a panicky moment when water started peeing out, thought maybe its some sort of bleeder rather than isolation. Cuppa tea, then will go back to it!!
It should take up.
Can I just say thanks for your video s saved me money keep them going
No problem Rich .
Thank you . Good, easy advice to follow. My boiler loop valve has started leaking after opening. I’ll give this a go!
No problem Kay.
Cheers mate, glad I saw this before my bodge job milliput had set!
No problem 👍
Thanks for your video. I've just replaced my toilet and cistern. As soon as I turned on the isolation valve it started leaking. I reckon the valve must be at least 10 years old. I've wrapped a rag around it to see if it will stop by itself. If not, I'll try turning the valve a little
Good luck with it.
Thanks for the video. I have this happen regularly on new cut off valves.
No problem.
just had one of these fitted by a plumber. Thought I was being a good customer by paying him on the spot. Left me with a leak and blanking my calls. So at least I can give it a go and fix it myself.
Best thing. You wont see him again.
Good video. I have found a drop of jointing compound works too with turning it slightly.
Thanks for the tip.
Had this problem with two valves in an inline heating installation in winter...wrapped Self Amalgamating Repair Tape round the valves and no more leaks...before replacing 3 months later!
Thanks for the tip.
@brucecurrie6913 was the self amalgamating tape you used rubber or silicone?
I have one on the f&e tank it will only turn a very small amount and only just turns off and on, I'm not going to try and force it and make it leak and screw driver blade can't grip the mullered slot anyway.. going to have to change it, are the 15mm ball valves all the same length even the full bore one's Al? With the nuts and olives tightened mine measures about 58mm
BTW great video!
The ballafix ones are the same length but the full bore ones are a tad longer (cant remember exact amount)r if you can pull the pipe out a bit to accommodate it would be better.
ive known them to stop leaking after about say 30 seconds when opened .. also had one spray out without touching it all under a sink because i turned a main stop top off ...
Yes those valves can be awful.
Thanks so much, you reassured me to carry on with replacing my boiler pump. when I turned the little stop valves either side of the pump one started to dribble. I carried on and after the new pump was in and running the dribble just faded away after a few hours.
They usually take up. Saved yourself about £60.00 on plumbers fees.
Hi Derek ! It seems stupid that when you need to turn the valve off for some reason it fails ! why bother fitting if we cannot depend on it when called upon (which may very often and likely be years later ) perhaps proper Ballofix quality would pay dividends in the long run ?
The expensive Peggler ones are much better.
The ball starts off lubricated and working it to and fro MAY redistribute the lubricant and reseal it. Sometimes it can make the leak worse!
Depends on your luck Paul.
They appear to be a liability. Are the plastic push fit John Guest more reliable?
No.
As I understand it a service valve screw can be turned either way to close off the water as long as you have the slot in the screw 90 degrees to the run of the pipe, it’s just that I turned one off tonight and it leaked so had to turn it back on so now have to turn stop cock off unless there’s another service valve further down the run, I think I sent you pick of a lever tap a while ago and didn’t finish message before I accidentally sent, but I took screw out of centre of tap should top of tap cone off then the lever part only this one won’t or does it have to be lifted up some how for it to come off, cheers
Use the main stopcock it is much safer. Once that screw is out of the tap the top should just come off, it becomes stuck on over time, give it a light tap upwards with a small hammer to dislodge it.
What do I do with mine under the sink ?, It doesn't have a flat head but a Phillips head ?.
Use a Philips screwdriver.
I hate these isolation valves. I was doing some work on a hot water tap and as soon as I turned it to the off position it started leaking. I then tried changing the position of it a few times and thought it had stopped leaking. Carried on working on the tap a few hours later I was looking at the floor and it was all soaking wet, unknown to me it had continued leaking *sigh*. In the end I've wrapped a towel around it and plan to replace it when I get chance tomorrow.
Buy a high quality one like a peggler.
People do yourselves a favor and use only lever valves when needed. These are so useless they should be banned. No surprise you can't find them anywhere in Europe, only seen them in the UK.
Good advice M.O.
Aren't lever valves the same thing with ball o fix? the difference being one has a handle
Thanks, useful info, thank you for sharing your long experience.
Glad it was helpful!
I have a washing machine service valve ( hot water) that seems to have been dripping for some time from the actual tap, I turned the tap on slightly the off and the leak seems to have stopped, should I leave it and hope it doesn’t leak or fit as stop end? It’s not connected to the washing machine as that’s cold water feed only.
I was going to stick a push fit stop end on in place of the service valve but read in the comments on one of your videos that they shouldn’t be used as a permanent repair?
Best to use a brass plug stop end.
Thanks Derek, I shall give it a go👍🏻
we have one that leaks in the winter then after 100ml leaking every day for a few weeks it can suddenly stop but thanks for the video (ours is in a very awkward position hence trying to fix)
Yeh, I know the problem.
Tried turning the screw - cue being sprayed by jets of water... what was a ‘leave til the morning’ problem is now a Sunday night emergency...
Those crap quality valves.
mine dripped this week after I turned toilet basin sink water off with the plan to change the taps. I decided not to go further until i find the mains turn off, just moved in. valve should be 20 yrs old. think ill just plan to replace them and have flex tails installed too.
Good idea.
Thanks for the advice, I'll give it a try!
No problem.
I just had this in a diy task. It leaked when closed, but when opened again (with water pressure) the leak stopped. I will buy a spare and keep an eye on where the leak was.
Good idea.
I had one leak when working on a toilet. I sprayed the turn screw with WD40 which stopped it leaking. I am wondering if the WD40 caused the rubber seal to expand and this stopped the leak.
More than likely.
Than yu boss. This has just happened to my toilet .. replacing the thing is going to be annoying as I cant really get in there!
i think the best ball valve you can use is a lever ball valve is to use more realibale enjoy the video.
Yes I agree.
I wonder if by applying gentle heat to the valve it would soften the seal to seal it
Worth a try.
Hi great video Im wondering if you can advise- my tap is dripping and I cant budge stop cock I thought id try the isolation valve when I turned very slightly to the right water came out so I turned it back would it have been water in store in other words is it normal..Totally paranoid about water..Thankyou.!!
Yes it is quite normal for those isolation valves to leak.
@@dereton33 Thankyou for your quick response so If I turn it again will it stop the tap dripping untill I get someone in..
Had this today on hot feed bathroom basin. Is it best to replace both of them or wait till the cold leaks?
Change both Bob.
I came here full of hope having read the title "How to fix a leaking isolation valve" only to hear you tell me "well what can be done, basically there's nothing you can do except change the valve" What a waste of time, thank you.
Thanks for your very kind comments Mike.
Thanks! very helpful. Much appreciated
No problem.
Another great video. Thanks
Glad you enjoyed it
Hi, love your videos. What do I do if I’ve fitted a new one but the screw won’t turn? I’ve tried brute force and WD40 left on over night, it’s the cold feed pipe.
Change it Im afraid.
@@dereton33 damn! Thank you so much for the reply.
Is it hard to add this isolator valve to live water pipe? Want to change kitchen tap but no way to stop hot water
I would not try it live. you could get very wet
you can pur fernox lsx on top and just seal it off for emrgency if you dont want to use valve
No it dosent work.
@@dereton33 how comes i have added some fernox seal onto mine, will test out soon to see if leak has stopped
Mine had a plastic service valve. Can you still buy these? I had to fit a metal type, but the sealing face is different to the plastic inlet of the cistern. Any suggestions please? The thread is the same, but sealing faces aren't. the old one had an sealing ring inside. Do I now have to change the whole cistern unit? Thanks
You can still get the service valve, no need to change the cistern.
Ah thanks.. I had a good look on ebay but didn't see anything.
I'm thinking a rubber washer and a jubilee clip will stop the leaking?
Err not on those.
How do you improve the join between the isolating valve and the plastic inlet system on a toilet. Even with pace tape there’s still a wee bead.
Renew the fibre washer joint.
My hot water one for the kitchen sink has started leaking after replacing the mixer.
Sodding thing is in between the wall and wall cabinet so it looks like I'll have to remove the cabinets to replace it, grrrrrr!
Good luck with it 👍
Great vid I've just had a baxi installed and there's a drip on the isolation flow valve the plumber has now failed to come back 5 times to fix it the more I thighten it it gets less but watching your other video I am scared to overtighten it and bust the olive should they not be too tight cheers
It would be best to undo the joint and wrap some PTFE tape around the olive. Turn the water off first.
@@dereton33 saved me again dereton just done that and it's dry thanks again that's the second time your videos have helped me 👍
I've just fitted a new sink and have added these below the taps. I have a tiny leak from under the isolator valve on the hot pipe (yes it is fitted the right way round) would this benefit from your fix?
Yes for sure. Also make sure the bottom nut is tight.
@@dereton33 Thanks for the quick reply, I will check the bottom nut first and if it still needs it will try a small turn on the isolator. But first a cuppa and a 10 min rest for my poor knees :)
ive a downstairs toilet where this valve has jammed up. Got a few things to try to unjam it, but if I do need to cut the water can it usually be done from the main stopcock (under the kitchen sink) and flush until no more water? Im guessing its not fed from the tank in the attic?
Just turn off the main supply yes.
@@dereton33 Thankyou
I have a lever valve on the hot tap supply that has started dribbling
If its a lever it will have to be renewed.
Love your videos, I wonder if you can help with this please. Today I removed a dishwasher which had a similar looking valve in the feed pipe but the screw would not turn clockwise so I turned it the other way to loosen it and the screw actually unscrewed all the way out. The screw has a rubber seal on the point which goes into the pipe.I screwed it back in all the way until it stopped turning. My question is, what is this type of valve and how do you stop/allow the water flow through it? (I had to turn off the mains at the stopcock to work on the dishwasher) Thank you.
That valve is a self cutting washing machine tap. I never use them, only proper valves that are cut into the pipework usually with a tee.
Thanks for your reply but it doesn't look like a tap, it looks exactly like an isolation valve. It is at the end of the pipe which is teed to the cold water feed to the sink tap although there is also a washing machine valve with blue lever connected after that to connect the hose from the d/w. It has compression fittings at each end and a screw in the centre. I have a photo but can't attach it to this note.
Just found on line this, Brass Double Check Valve CR. www.valvesonline.co.uk/brass-double-check-valve-cr.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiAiKrUBRD6ARIsADS2OLk8buwpB4TJRWc_xLmB_yzWJEzSypa2x26ty0Ubsqr1cNFgsLsVLLIaAuW8EALw_wcB I reckon that's it.
O I see it . It is not an isolation valve but a non return check valve. They are called check valves. They stop water movement in one direction, they do not turn off water.
Thanks again for your replies
Thanks for the video. Do you think the application of an external spray sealant might help things out here? (at least until the next time you have to turn the valve).
No they never do any good.
Cheers, I won’t try that then. Looks like the rag tied around it is keeping things nice and dry for now. I’ll keep an eye on it.
Try LSX if you can find it.
I've never had any success with sealants for anything that's under mains pressure, even a tiny leak. Sealants are ok for non-mains pressure leaks such as waste pipes etc.
Hello and thanks for your videos. I have to change out one of these valves. It has Copper piping one side and white plastic the other. I notice there's a bit of ptfe tape visible on either side of the valve. What pitfalls are there do you think
The PTFE tape has been wound around the thread as extra security against a leak. Should be fine without though.
Giv the centre of the iso a tap sealed ans sorted
My plumber used these in the central heating system to isolate the top and bottom floors; one of the valves started to leak so I'm guessing this is bad engineering practice.
It certainly is.
Look down the middle of one, reduces the diameter significantly, reduces flow and increases chances of blockage. Dont ever use 15mm ball valves anywhere for heating circuit.
What way is on and off? Should it be fully open or half way? Thanks
Off is when the slot is Vertical across the pipe. On is when the slot is vertical in line with the pipe.
Thank you 👍
Nice one mine just started leaking.
No problem.
Has the design of these changed much for newing buildings/properties?
Unfortunately not.
Hi Dereton. Can you install an isolation valve with a copper olive on 15mm plastic pipes? Would this work
No it will not seal and you would need an insert any way.
@@dereton33 i have polyplumb pipes under my sink. I've purchased kitchen taps with flexi tails. How do i successfully connect flexi tails onto polyplumb? I was thinking if i install metal isolation valve onto the polyplumb with inserts and copper olive, it'll be suffice. Any guidance would be highly appreciated please Dereton. Thanks
Hi, been a subscriber to your channel for a while & always find your videos have really great advice...wondering if you can help - in your professional opinion what's the best make of central heating boiler on the market today? I'm having a new kitchen which also means upgrading to a new combi boiler...just starting to get quotes for the boiler so any advice & tips and would be a great help. Thanks...Ann
Without doubt the Worcester Bosch is the best.
dereton33 thank you so much, wasn't certain but thought it might be a Worcester...it's a bit of a minefield out there, actually had an engineer visit earlier today who is an authorised installer for them so just waiting for a quote now, fingers crossed we don't get ripped off price wise but he seemed a decent sort so I think it'll be ok. Had an approx quote over the phone for a different make (sorry can't remember which one just now) and the quote was between £2.500 & £3.000 probably totally different prices to your area....anyway thanks again, you've helped put my mind at rest a bit..lol. Ann
ballofix are pretty naff always use full bore lever valve.
Thanks.
Thank you 👍
You are welcome
Great video
Thank you.
I've got the opposite problem, mines NOT leaking, it's clogged & won't shut off.
Any help/advice anyone?
Thanks
Renew with a better valve.
@@dereton33 Yeah, that's my point, I can't replace it till I can shut the water off, the two I have won't turn, I have the type where you use a flat screw driver & the type that's like a garden tap but neither will turn, I want to be able to turn at least one of them to turn the water off.
Thank you Kind Sir :)
You are very welcome
Fun when the valve is behind a sink unit.
Just love plumbing.
Thx helpful
No problem.
Hate ballofix valves. I'd say 80% of the buggers leak when I do a job. Shite fittings.
I agree.
Or replace it. 🙄
Well yes.
This video shows a cheap copy of the original Ballofix. Don’t use these. Use only the original Ballofix manufactured by BROEN in Denmark. They last forever. The cheap copies use PTFE in the spindel and around the ball. That’s why they leak.
The presenter keep calling the shown valve a Ballofix. That’s misleading the viewer. Ballofix is a protected trademark and the brand may only be used for the original one. This so called expert in the video is misusing the brandname and putting Ballofix in a bad situation. Don’t listen to him.
When you buy a Ballofix please make sure that is is marked with the Ballofix on the valve.
Do not use any ballofix branded or not.
@dereton33 sorry, but I don’t think you know what the difference is. You show a cheap copy of a Ballofix probably produced in China. You call it a Ballofix. It’s not. It’s a mini ballvalve.
Ballofix has been produced by BROEN in DK since 1960 and installed more than 140 mill places. I know what I’m talking about as sales director of Ballofix at BROEN. The problem you are showing is fake when you call it a Ballofix.